I love this! There's 1000 videos that make a complex science experiment and an engineering marvel to remove water from your compressor lines, but Lakeside once again shows an effective and efficient method that isn't cheap.
Great to hear! Thanks for sharing that - that's all my dad used - right there - I remember never having any water in the line while painting back home.
I started using the Motor Guard when all they had was motor oil filters. I have a couple over 50 years old. The M 30 is similar to the old lube oil filter. I put a M 30 on my Ford tractor the other day.
I’m mind blown at the amount of knowledge I’ve learned from your videos and now with the tip of your filter recommendations and how you and your father used toilet paint paper for years is such a genius tip that I can’t wait to try on that motor guard filter..so glad I ran into this video and your channel for that matter . thanks you so much for these dry air tips!!..getting tired of these expensive desiccant filters..
Thanks so much - hope it helps you out. I only use the filter and dryer set up for painting - otherwise I run the tools straight out of the compressor. Just drain the compressor everyday after use. I do get water sometimes w/o the filters but not to worry just keep the tools oiled and the compressor drained and the moisture is minimum. Let me know how it goes for you. Appreciate your support :) Jerry
Hi Jerry, on ur recommendation I just bought the same filter. Made in USA and good enough for your father so good enough for me here in OZ. Thx for the videos.
I have the same motor guard filter unit hanging on my 12x20 portable garage I use as a spray booth, the only thing have different is I have an auto drain on my 60gal HFT compressor and two HFT Industrial Air Filter Regulators about 25ft apart running before the booth that I drain regularly.... I like that you can get clean air from a smaller unit like yours.and you get great paint results with it!
I've been wondering for awhile if you could hook up a vacuum pump to the compressor drain to remove any residual moisture that didn't drain out through gravity. Basically the same idea as evacuating an AC system by boiling it away. I can't find anything similar online, and it might be overkill, but I can't be the only person who has thought of it.
Time to look up a patent attorney. Good idea because so many tanks rust out at the bottom and really need a way to dry out completely - I don't think it's overkill :)
The Motor Guard is not a water seperator. If you are dealing with a lot of water you will need to deal with it up stream like a primary and secondary fuel filter. At work I used them for instrument air. We had refrigerated air dryers. Also plasma cutters.
Just with the motor guard and the disposable filter is gonna be enough to not have fish eyes when spray painting? I've seen modifications like using an ac condenser to cool the air down, another one with an electric fan doing extra cooling. All of that is overkill if I only want to get rid of water?
For spraying a car you really only need the motor guard. That is if your compressor is in good condition - no internal oil leaks, tank has been drained on regular basis, etc.
I've been getting small fish eyes in my paint jobs and thats with a refrigerated air dryer and an inexpensive water/oil separator at the compressor, and also the small red filters on the gun. I have a pretty elaborate setup for a home shop 80 gallon compressor w/automatic tank drain timer. Water is a very small issue for me. It's the oil mist and maybe some dust issues coming from the air. I've seen a lot of guys use the Motor Guard toilet paper filters for spray painting. I just ordered one. I'm gonna set it up like you do with some quick disconnects and use it only for spray painting. I also have a couple of brand new hoses that I'll use exclusively for spray painting. From what I understand it's important to open it up and dry out the filter when you're not using it regularly or change the filter out once a week if you use it regularly. Is that what you do? Nothing crushes my nuts worse than working very hard to get a beautifully prepped surface only to get fisheyes and dust in the final paint job. I can deal with a little dust but fisheyes are soul crushing.
Not to depress you but when I was young, I used to get a few. After I became completely aware of things that could cause fish eyes I never ever got them again. Just be aware of any grease or oil you use, eat, etc. Don't oil your tools a lot - maybe 1-2 drops. Don't eat greasy foods for lunch :) Your compressor may be leaking oil inside the tank. Focus on keeping oil and grease out of the mix. Let me know if you continue to get them :)
@@LakesideAutobody I refuse to let some fish eyes depress me, I'll beat it if it kills me. Part of the problem is that my shop is a multi use place. Although it's just been this body work project here lately, I change oil in there, I have machines in there, I will definitely let you know if I continue to get them. I'm not even gonna spray primer until I get this filter installed. The compressor probably has a little bit of" blow by", it can't be much, because it doesn't consume oil. It could be oil from the exterior of the hoses. It could be coming off of me. I got a tyvek suit for when I'm ready to spray paint. Like my shop, my clothes are multi task work clothes too. I just gotta be more mindful of contamination. I don't paint every day, so things you take for granted, are things I really don't pay much attention to. I really do think that the filter is gonna cure 95% of my fish eye problems, the rest is just keeping oil away from the project.
@@marcellemay7721 Here's one more thing that may help. Use clean rags and a windex bottle filled with wax and grease remover. One rag gets sprayed with the wax and grease remover and the other wipes it dry - use some rubber gloves. Clean the panels real well just before painting then wipe with a tack cloth (only the cloth can touch). Let me know how it goes after that :)
@@LakesideAutobody Man, you've been so helpful. Another thought I had is that it might be solvent pop. I sprayed 3 coats of base on just the hood and tail gate for a trial run. first coat was very light, then 2 medium wet coats. I used fast reducer but it was like 50 degrees in the shop. I was gonna do clear coat but I stopped painting after the 3rd coat of base when I saw what looked to be fish eyes. It took the base like 4 or 5 days to dry enough where I could wet sand it. The coats seemed to have flashed over, but in all honesty it could have been solvent pop. Being as cool as it was in the shop, maybe they needed more like 45 minutes between coats, i sprayed the coats about 10-15 mins apart.
@@marcellemay7721 I'm glad I can help. You've got to get the temp up a bit - get it to at least 60-70 degrees in there - even a space heater would help. Anyway, when it's cold you'll have to wait till the last coat of base looks dull or flat before applying the next. Not sure how long that would be at a cool temp. A good rule of thumb for any paint is when the last coat is tacky or nearly dry to the touch, you're ready for another coat. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Thank you again for a great video! I was wondering if you had any techniques to fix a tailgate on a 98 chevy 1500 obs truck, the dent is on the top tail but hard to get in there with a crowbar or anything to try and push it out
Hello Is it the m30 or m60? Did you modify it to be able to put a toilet paper roll ? Some guys say you need to modify it, can you give me some details please ?
That's a pretty solid old compressor - back in the old days of USA made compressors a compressor like this put out 6.4 scfm @ 40 psi and 5.4 scfm @ 90 psi. I might get another one day but for now I'm fine with it.
Great video now this is a area that I need to understand more can you send me a link where I can purchase this filter for my compressor. also sometime in the future if you can do a video using air compressor filters for air tools. thank you Jerry very helpful love your channal stay safe
Thanks, glad you liked it. The link to the products used is under the description of the video. As for compressor filters for air tools, I don't use any for that - just drain my compressor daily. I only use filters for painting.
I only use it for full paint jobs so I use a new one every time. I use the motorgaurd filter and keep it in there for quite some time. My dad used TP and would change every time he painted a car. I open it up , check out the filter - if it seems dry, I stick with it. Also water coming out of the line means change it 👍😊
Thanks for subbing my friend. These are the boots rockroosterfootwear.com/collections/pull-on-work-boot/products/black-6-inch-pull-on-leather-work-boots-ak227 - most convenient, comfortable, pair of boots I've ever owned - easily slip on and off when going in and out of the house. Jerry
Yes. That would work fine for painting car parts. I never get water or moisture out of the line when using one of these while painting. I only use it when painting though - just to save on filters. It really absorbs moisture.
Do you have an email? I can send you pictures of what it looks like on the inside. My email is listed under the "about" tab on the home page of my channel.
Why not just mount the Motor Guard at the end of the hose because the hose might have contaminants in it? and when you're done, you can just remove the filter? I planned on using this for a plasma cutter. Maybe spray painting is different.
You could do that. My dad would install it between two hoses - you do need a length of hose to spray with - can't be lugging that thing around near the car :)
At work I bolted the Motor Guard M 30 to the plasma cutter. I was surprised the welding supply offered the M 30 as optional equipment. The Motor Guard oil cleaner on the old Ford 390 is over 50 years old. 1 use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in it. Years ago I was getting toilet paper by the case from Office Depot. The plant had junk paper in the bathrooms. Some use Scott 1000. Its too big. I use it in the Flat head Ford V8 canistef filter. I modified it to use the 4 1/2 inch paper. The Ford is 4 1/2 ID.
That small of a compressor won’t generate much heat like a bigger one thus less condensation, I’m actually surprised you get by with it, I have 30 feet of sloped piping with a water trap regulator then the 🧻 motor guard it will still throw water from running a lot, so when I paint I have a refillable desiccant line with humidity gauge, then it’s dry and clean and you know when it’s not.
My dad used to have a 60 gal 2 stage 220v and this is all he used but maybe it's because he drained it after every use and blew the lines out regularly before paint. Or maybe less humidity where we lived than what you have - I'm not sure. Thanks for your input :)
Hey Lakeside. Great video. I have a dedicated airline for painting. But I sometimes use another line when I am in a hurry to do a small part. That is when the inline filter comes in handy. I should drain my tank more often though. I use air almost every second or third day but only drain it when I go to do a paint job that will take me more than 30 minutes. When I do drain my tank, there seems to be a mixture of oil and water come out. Where does the oil come from? I watch all of your videos in order to learn a little each time. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
The only thing I can think of is that the oil is getting past the rings on the piston and ending up in the tank. Check to see if you're using the right type of oil (sometimes has to be straight 30) - if you use 10w-30 it may be thinning w/ heat and getting by. That's my best guess. Anyway, glad you enjoy the videos and thanks for the support. Let me know what you find out about the oil in the compressor. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hey Jerry. I am using compressor oil and the level has never gone down in the last 6 years that I owned the compressor. Just another mystery of life.
I could not get any noticeable difference on the gauge at the gun or notice any difference in air pressure using air tools like a spray gun, blow gun or impact, but I'm sure as they get used and wet there will be some.
Typically how long does a motorgaurd filter last? I read through the comments and found where you said you’ll use a toilet paper roll for one job, but I’m curious if it’s worth it for a light duty hobbyist to buy the actual motorgaurd filter.
I used them for a very long time because all I do with them is paint. All other body work I don't have a filter on. A hobbyist could probably use the same one for a few years - you can even unhook it and open the case to allow the filter to dry :)
Appreciate the quick response. If that’s the case then I’ll just order the filter. I was under the impression they were only for short term use and disposable.
Still on the same filter, but it doesn’t get a lot of use. A couple of spray jobs and I also use it with my plasma cutter. Just like Jerry mentioned I just open the case and let it dry out.
Yes I do. Usually fish eyes come from something other than the compressed air though unless you have some compressor oil getting past the rings into the tank. Other than that try focusing on not getting any oil/silicone, etc. near your work. Wipe it down good with wax and grease remover before painting. Let me know what works for you - curious to see what causes your fish eyes. One time I got some nasty ones because of rubbing compound residue - at least I think that's what caused it 😊
@@LakesideAutobody yea i do get oil/water in my tank it brown i always wipe it good with wax and grease remover sometimes twice i already was it with water before i do then wax and grease then tag rag and spray i'll order the m 30
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I really pushed my luck I had no problems painting parts for a few months until now tons of fish eyes how long does the roll last for should I buy a few with the m 30 fillter i dont paint much in a year maybe 25 time give or take
@@AliVapeReviews We (my dad and I) painted cars back in the 80's but instead of using the genuine filers, we used a roll of toilet paper. Every paint job got a new roll of TP then it got thrown out. I think you can still do that with this model - not totally sure if the new TP rolls fit though - you'd have to test it. Other wise, I never give the filters long enough time to find out that they don't work so I can't tell you exactly how long a filter lasts. I only use them for full paint jobs because it uses a lot of air and thus moisture. I replace them after 2-3 full paint jobs - I'd bet they could be used for 10 or more paint jobs :)
Just be sure to change the Motor Guard filter weekly, or at least open it up to let the housing dry out. I left my closed up and sitting idle for ~6 months. When I opened my M-60 up the corrosion was so bad I had to cut the filter element out. The housing was shot. Odd for a product that was designed to trap and hold moisture. I don't expect it to last forever, but... I suspect they are painting the housings and not power coating them like others have said. I can't see a proper powder coating allowing the moisture to get to the aluminum housing. So, change the filter or open and dry weekly.
The moisture doesnt cause the coating to fail. If the coating fails when water is in the filter corrosion happens. Ive seen the coating fail in a short time. Ive seen the coating last many years filtering gasoline.Its like some of these cars where the paint didnt stick to the primer..It would probably be very expensive to properly prepare each filter to hold the coating. My 76 Ford has a decent paint job except the paint and primer didnt stay on the drivers door. Im guessing they painted over oil. I worked in small parts paint. If a truck is on the assembly line with no blue door they will get one out there. The parts have oil on them. The oil is steamed off and acidized then dried and primered. Takes too much time. A superviser has to cover his ass. If they are lucky the missing door was rejected by the inspector and they find it on the repair line.
Good advice... Or you can also put a air drier and water trap in line with the compressor pump to air reservoir. still use a oil and moisture descant filter. And also use an air filter at the gun.
Another great video Jerry. Years ago when I was occasionally painting cars I had a dedicated air hose for painting that I thought would eliminate contaminates that were in my other hoses. Do you think it makes any difference?
Thanks for the brand preference you use. With so many to choose from online it gets kinda overwhelming. Side note question, I have a 5 hp 30 gallonCraftsman compressor as well and was thinking of upsizing to a 60 gallon because people say thats the minimum you need. I dont want to upgrade and spend the money if i dont need to. Have you ever seen the need to go bigger? Or are you just fine with that size. Great vids by the way
I'm fine with the size I have but over the years I have become pretty efficient so.... That being said, I have found ways around having to get a bigger compressor. For example buffing - I use electric), I don't do a ton of sand blasting, I DA one panel at a time, then take a coffee break :), I take my time and think - etc. I do plan on getting a new one some day but it will be around the same size maybe a Quincy (USA) - I don't need anything bigger - it can spray a whole car continuously no problem and do all the mechanical work I need done - I never really think about it actually so that says something right there. Let me know what you end up getting if you do buy bigger. Jerry
there is more basic things to do first, the first one is to locate the compressor air intake where the air is the dryer possible if you wet the floor of your garage when painting, the second is install an aftercooler between the compressor pump and the air tank to insure that the tank stays cool, another way is to install e lenght of hose that you'll drop in a drum filled with cold water then install a filter so the air will be cooled and the water will trap before reaching the spray gun.
I got it from JBtools $69.00 - www.jbtools.com/motor-guard-m-30-compressed-air-filter-sub-micronic-45-cfm/ - You might find it cheaper elsewhere though.
@@73superglide62 Maybe try some real cheap stuff from Dollar General too. I'm not sure how long a roll would last because I only use it for painting :)
Lashed rain here for the last 2 weeks, place is awash - despite us having "fancy" traps for moisture all around our air system, draining the compressor & lines frequently.... damn water in the lines today.. not much turns a respray job South so fast as water coming through the airline.. Bain in the pollocks barely covers it when there's moisture coming into the gun and you're busy spraying a roof. Inline trap on the gun too.. where does the moisture drip out of? Just before the on-gun trap, naturally. Down onto the roof... GRRRR!
Moisture is horrible really. Those are the variables though - there's a lot of them - bugs, temperature, humidity, forgetfulness, haste, dust, orange peel, runs, draggin' the hose across the fresh paint, etc. Thanks for you entertaining story JW :)
I have not but if I use the toilet paper it's only a one time use like say I'm painting a whole car or something else that needs dry air but not a show car :)
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I love this! There's 1000 videos that make a complex science experiment and an engineering marvel to remove water from your compressor lines, but Lakeside once again shows an effective and efficient method that isn't cheap.
I appreciate your input OBG. Thanks for watching and enjoy the rest of the week :)
Thanks, you saved me from spending a fortune on unnecessary items, for doing home painting projects.
You're welcome Franc :)
Based on your video I purchased the Motor Guard filter. I am glad I did. It is a well designed, rugged, high quality filter and Made in the USA.
Great to hear! Thanks for sharing that - that's all my dad used - right there - I remember never having any water in the line while painting back home.
I started using the Motor Guard when all they had was motor oil filters. I have a couple over 50 years old. The M 30 is similar to the old lube oil filter. I put a M 30 on my Ford tractor the other day.
I’m mind blown at the amount of knowledge I’ve learned from your videos and now with the tip of your filter recommendations and how you and your father used toilet paint paper for years is such a genius tip that I can’t wait to try on that motor guard filter..so glad I ran into this video and your channel for that matter . thanks you so much for these dry air tips!!..getting tired of these expensive desiccant filters..
Thanks so much - hope it helps you out. I only use the filter and dryer set up for painting - otherwise I run the tools straight out of the compressor. Just drain the compressor everyday after use. I do get water sometimes w/o the filters but not to worry just keep the tools oiled and the compressor drained and the moisture is minimum. Let me know how it goes for you. Appreciate your support :) Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks jerry!..will do!..I agree I also only use the filters when painting only as well..thanks again for all the tips!..
@@frankvalencia9227 You're welcome my friend - have a great week :)
Hi Jerry, on ur recommendation I just bought the same filter. Made in USA and good enough for your father so good enough for me here in OZ. Thx for the videos.
You're welcome - I think you'll really like the simplicity of it :)
good ole roll of tp, saves the day again
👍😊
I have the same motor guard filter unit hanging on my 12x20 portable garage I use as a spray booth, the only thing have different is I have an auto drain on my 60gal HFT compressor and two HFT Industrial Air Filter Regulators about 25ft apart running before the booth that I drain regularly.... I like that you can get clean air from a smaller unit like yours.and you get great paint results with it!
A short, efficient and informative video ❤👏
Thank you for watching :)
Glad you posted this video....I need to run my drain out the shop wall and I keep forgetting to get the parts!! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the support - have a good weekend :)
I've been wondering for awhile if you could hook up a vacuum pump to the compressor drain to remove any residual moisture that didn't drain out through gravity. Basically the same idea as evacuating an AC system by boiling it away. I can't find anything similar online, and it might be overkill, but I can't be the only person who has thought of it.
Time to look up a patent attorney. Good idea because so many tanks rust out at the bottom and really need a way to dry out completely - I don't think it's overkill :)
Super informative, good video!
Thank you, very informative. Much appreciated.
You're welcome Twizted P - glad you liked it :)
Great tips Bud!! Water and oil are the enemy!!☺
Good to hear from you RK - yes they are - have a good weekend :)
The Motor Guard is not a water seperator. If you are dealing with a lot of water you will need to deal with it up stream like a primary and secondary fuel filter. At work I used them for instrument air. We had refrigerated air dryers. Also plasma cutters.
Great video Jerry packed with great tips!
Thanks - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody have a great weekend!
Just with the motor guard and the disposable filter is gonna be enough to not have fish eyes when spray painting? I've seen modifications like using an ac condenser to cool the air down, another one with an electric fan doing extra cooling. All of that is overkill if I only want to get rid of water?
For spraying a car you really only need the motor guard. That is if your compressor is in good condition - no internal oil leaks, tank has been drained on regular basis, etc.
I've been getting small fish eyes in my paint jobs and thats with a refrigerated air dryer and an inexpensive water/oil separator at the compressor, and also the small red filters on the gun. I have a pretty elaborate setup for a home shop 80 gallon compressor w/automatic tank drain timer. Water is a very small issue for me. It's the oil mist and maybe some dust issues coming from the air. I've seen a lot of guys use the Motor Guard toilet paper filters for spray painting. I just ordered one. I'm gonna set it up like you do with some quick disconnects and use it only for spray painting. I also have a couple of brand new hoses that I'll use exclusively for spray painting. From what I understand it's important to open it up and dry out the filter when you're not using it regularly or change the filter out once a week if you use it regularly. Is that what you do?
Nothing crushes my nuts worse than working very hard to get a beautifully prepped surface only to get fisheyes and dust in the final paint job. I can deal with a little dust but fisheyes are soul crushing.
Not to depress you but when I was young, I used to get a few. After I became completely aware of things that could cause fish eyes I never ever got them again. Just be aware of any grease or oil you use, eat, etc. Don't oil your tools a lot - maybe 1-2 drops. Don't eat greasy foods for lunch :) Your compressor may be leaking oil inside the tank. Focus on keeping oil and grease out of the mix. Let me know if you continue to get them :)
@@LakesideAutobody I refuse to let some fish eyes depress me, I'll beat it if it kills me. Part of the problem is that my shop is a multi use place. Although it's just been this body work project here lately, I change oil in there, I have machines in there, I will definitely let you know if I continue to get them. I'm not even gonna spray primer until I get this filter installed. The compressor probably has a little bit of" blow by", it can't be much, because it doesn't consume oil. It could be oil from the exterior of the hoses. It could be coming off of me. I got a tyvek suit for when I'm ready to spray paint. Like my shop, my clothes are multi task work clothes too. I just gotta be more mindful of contamination. I don't paint every day, so things you take for granted, are things I really don't pay much attention to. I really do think that the filter is gonna cure 95% of my fish eye problems, the rest is just keeping oil away from the project.
@@marcellemay7721 Here's one more thing that may help. Use clean rags and a windex bottle filled with wax and grease remover. One rag gets sprayed with the wax and grease remover and the other wipes it dry - use some rubber gloves. Clean the panels real well just before painting then wipe with a tack cloth (only the cloth can touch). Let me know how it goes after that :)
@@LakesideAutobody Man, you've been so helpful. Another thought I had is that it might be solvent pop. I sprayed 3 coats of base on just the hood and tail gate for a trial run. first coat was very light, then 2 medium wet coats. I used fast reducer but it was like 50 degrees in the shop. I was gonna do clear coat but I stopped painting after the 3rd coat of base when I saw what looked to be fish eyes. It took the base like 4 or 5 days to dry enough where I could wet sand it. The coats seemed to have flashed over, but in all honesty it could have been solvent pop. Being as cool as it was in the shop, maybe they needed more like 45 minutes between coats, i sprayed the coats about 10-15 mins apart.
@@marcellemay7721 I'm glad I can help. You've got to get the temp up a bit - get it to at least 60-70 degrees in there - even a space heater would help. Anyway, when it's cold you'll have to wait till the last coat of base looks dull or flat before applying the next. Not sure how long that would be at a cool temp. A good rule of thumb for any paint is when the last coat is tacky or nearly dry to the touch, you're ready for another coat. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Perfect! Answered all of my questions, thanks :)
You're welcome
Great info. I just subbed. Thank you. May God Bless.
God bless you too - thanks for subbing 👍💯
Thank you again for a great video! I was wondering if you had any techniques to fix a tailgate on a 98 chevy 1500 obs truck, the dent is on the top tail but hard to get in there with a crowbar or anything to try and push it out
Here's a video that shows how to remove a dent on top of a tailgate - might help you out. th-cam.com/video/fi2LJy8rNPk/w-d-xo.html
Great information!! Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful - have a good weekend :)
Very well done as usual. Thanks.
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Hello
Is it the m30 or m60?
Did you modify it to be able to put a toilet paper roll ?
Some guys say you need to modify it, can you give me some details please ?
The M30 - I think the M60 is for bigger hoses. There is no modification needed for a TP roll. Some brands (huge puffy rolls) won't fit though.
Q. How are you running a wizzer wheel on a 1 hp compressor?
That's a pretty solid old compressor - back in the old days of USA made compressors a compressor like this put out 6.4 scfm @ 40 psi and 5.4 scfm @ 90 psi. I might get another one day but for now I'm fine with it.
Do I get the 1/2 or 1/4 inch model?
Depends on your fittings. I got the 1/4 inch model because everything I use is 1/4" fittings.
Great video now this is a area that I need to understand more can you send me a link where I can purchase this filter for my compressor.
also sometime in the future if you can do a video using air compressor filters for air tools. thank you Jerry very helpful love your channal stay safe
Thanks, glad you liked it. The link to the products used is under the description of the video. As for compressor filters for air tools, I don't use any for that - just drain my compressor daily. I only use filters for painting.
When do you know that you have to change the "toilet paper roll"?
I only use it for full paint jobs so I use a new one every time. I use the motorgaurd filter and keep it in there for quite some time. My dad used TP and would change every time he painted a car. I open it up , check out the filter - if it seems dry, I stick with it. Also water coming out of the line means change it 👍😊
Great video mate, very helpful!
Glad you could use the info :)
Thank you!
You're welcome :)
New subscriber, what kind of shows or boots do you have on? Look very comfy!
Thanks for subbing my friend. These are the boots rockroosterfootwear.com/collections/pull-on-work-boot/products/black-6-inch-pull-on-leather-work-boots-ak227 - most convenient, comfortable, pair of boots I've ever owned - easily slip on and off when going in and out of the house. Jerry
What size air hose are you using?
3/8" - That's pretty common for body shops :)
@@LakesideAutobody Agreed.Already use that size .Just checking before ordering a Motor Guard 30.All my fitting are 1/4" NPT
@@wayneduchscherer4676 👍
So with the motor guard it would replace a desiccant dryer? I plan on painting car parts
Yes. That would work fine for painting car parts. I never get water or moisture out of the line when using one of these while painting. I only use it when painting though - just to save on filters. It really absorbs moisture.
@@LakesideAutobody 👍 thanks really appreciate it
thanks 👍
You're welcome 👍
Friend can show what in side looks like try too make one please
Do you have an email? I can send you pictures of what it looks like on the inside. My email is listed under the "about" tab on the home page of my channel.
Why not just mount the Motor Guard at the end of the hose because the hose might have contaminants in it? and when you're done, you can just remove the filter? I planned on using this for a plasma cutter. Maybe spray painting is different.
You could do that. My dad would install it between two hoses - you do need a length of hose to spray with - can't be lugging that thing around near the car :)
At work I bolted the Motor Guard M 30 to the plasma cutter. I was surprised the welding supply offered the M 30 as optional equipment. The Motor Guard oil cleaner on the old Ford 390 is over 50 years old. 1 use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in it. Years ago I was getting toilet paper by the case from Office Depot. The plant had junk paper in the bathrooms. Some use Scott 1000. Its too big. I use it in the Flat head Ford V8 canistef filter. I modified it to use the 4 1/2 inch paper. The Ford is 4 1/2 ID.
That small of a compressor won’t generate much heat like a bigger one thus less condensation, I’m actually surprised you get by with it, I have 30 feet of sloped piping with a water trap regulator then the 🧻 motor guard it will still throw water from running a lot, so when I paint I have a refillable desiccant line with humidity gauge, then it’s dry and clean and you know when it’s not.
My dad used to have a 60 gal 2 stage 220v and this is all he used but maybe it's because he drained it after every use and blew the lines out regularly before paint. Or maybe less humidity where we lived than what you have - I'm not sure. Thanks for your input :)
Very good tips n I love that toilet paper filter lol
Thanks - have a good weekend:)
Great video again - thank you! How much line from the compressor to the wall filter do you need to cool the air enough?
My line is 6 feet but you may find you need longer.
Hey Lakeside. Great video. I have a dedicated airline for painting. But I sometimes use another line when I am in a hurry to do a small part. That is when the inline filter comes in handy. I should drain my tank more often though. I use air almost every second or third day but only drain it when I go to do a paint job that will take me more than 30 minutes. When I do drain my tank, there seems to be a mixture of oil and water come out. Where does the oil come from? I watch all of your videos in order to learn a little each time. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
The only thing I can think of is that the oil is getting past the rings on the piston and ending up in the tank. Check to see if you're using the right type of oil (sometimes has to be straight 30) - if you use 10w-30 it may be thinning w/ heat and getting by. That's my best guess. Anyway, glad you enjoy the videos and thanks for the support. Let me know what you find out about the oil in the compressor. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hey Jerry. I am using compressor oil and the level has never gone down in the last 6 years that I owned the compressor. Just another mystery of life.
how much psi loss going through these filters ?
I could not get any noticeable difference on the gauge at the gun or notice any difference in air pressure using air tools like a spray gun, blow gun or impact, but I'm sure as they get used and wet there will be some.
Typically how long does a motorgaurd filter last? I read through the comments and found where you said you’ll use a toilet paper roll for one job, but I’m curious if it’s worth it for a light duty hobbyist to buy the actual motorgaurd filter.
I used them for a very long time because all I do with them is paint. All other body work I don't have a filter on. A hobbyist could probably use the same one for a few years - you can even unhook it and open the case to allow the filter to dry :)
Appreciate the quick response. If that’s the case then I’ll just order the filter. I was under the impression they were only for short term use and disposable.
@@jasonpipkin1249 They are super easy to use and the air will be dry :)
@@jasonpipkin1249 Any word on the time usage you are getting for each filter?
Still on the same filter, but it doesn’t get a lot of use. A couple of spray jobs and I also use it with my plasma cutter. Just like Jerry mentioned I just open the case and let it dry out.
Where do you get that filter from?
Thanks
www.jbtools.com/motor-guard-m-30-compressed-air-filter-sub-micronic-45-cfm/?wi=off&gclid= It's a good solution to water when painting :)
do you still use the m 30 i'm wanna buy one having fisheyes BC i don't got a fillter other then an inline one
Yes I do. Usually fish eyes come from something other than the compressed air though unless you have some compressor oil getting past the rings into the tank. Other than that try focusing on not getting any oil/silicone, etc. near your work. Wipe it down good with wax and grease remover before painting. Let me know what works for you - curious to see what causes your fish eyes. One time I got some nasty ones because of rubbing compound residue - at least I think that's what caused it 😊
@@LakesideAutobody yea i do get oil/water in my tank it brown i always wipe it good with wax and grease remover sometimes twice i already was it with water before i do then wax and grease then tag rag and spray i'll order the m 30
@@AliVapeReviews I think that would catch/filter out the bad stuff for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I really pushed my luck I had no problems painting parts for a few months until now tons of fish eyes how long does the roll last for should I buy a few with the m 30 fillter i dont paint much in a year maybe 25 time give or take
@@AliVapeReviews We (my dad and I) painted cars back in the 80's but instead of using the genuine filers, we used a roll of toilet paper. Every paint job got a new roll of TP then it got thrown out. I think you can still do that with this model - not totally sure if the new TP rolls fit though - you'd have to test it. Other wise, I never give the filters long enough time to find out that they don't work so I can't tell you exactly how long a filter lasts. I only use them for full paint jobs because it uses a lot of air and thus moisture. I replace them after 2-3 full paint jobs - I'd bet they could be used for 10 or more paint jobs :)
Just be sure to change the Motor Guard filter weekly, or at least open it up to let the housing dry out. I left my closed up and sitting idle for ~6 months. When I opened my M-60 up the corrosion was so bad I had to cut the filter element out. The housing was shot. Odd for a product that was designed to trap and hold moisture. I don't expect it to last forever, but... I suspect they are painting the housings and not power coating them like others have said. I can't see a proper powder coating allowing the moisture to get to the aluminum housing. So, change the filter or open and dry weekly.
Great tip!!!! Thanks 👍👍🛠😊
The moisture doesnt cause the coating to fail. If the coating fails when water is in the filter corrosion happens. Ive seen the coating fail in a short time. Ive seen the coating last many years filtering gasoline.Its like some of these cars where the paint didnt stick to the primer..It would probably be very expensive to properly prepare each filter to hold the coating. My 76 Ford has a decent paint job except the paint and primer didnt stay on the drivers door. Im guessing they painted over oil. I worked in small parts paint. If a truck is on the assembly line with no blue door they will get one out there. The parts have oil on them. The oil is steamed off and acidized then dried and primered. Takes too much time. A superviser has to cover his ass. If they are lucky the missing door was rejected by the inspector and they find it on the repair line.
Good advice... Or you can also put a air drier and water trap in line with the compressor pump to air reservoir. still use a oil and moisture descant filter. And also use an air filter at the gun.
Really?
Another great video Jerry. Years ago when I was occasionally painting cars I had a dedicated air hose for painting that I thought would eliminate contaminates that were in my other hoses. Do you think it makes any difference?
That's probably a good idea. It would be nice and dry when starting. Nice tip - I think that would make a difference for sure :)
i assume you need to remove the carton from inside the TR ? ta
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Helpful, thanks!
Thanks Snake Doc - good to hear from you - check your email - the one you used to email me. Jerry
Thanks for the brand preference you use. With so many to choose from online it gets kinda overwhelming. Side note question, I have a 5 hp 30 gallonCraftsman compressor as well and was thinking of upsizing to a 60 gallon because people say thats the minimum you need. I dont want to upgrade and spend the money if i dont need to. Have you ever seen the need to go bigger? Or are you just fine with that size. Great vids by the way
I'm fine with the size I have but over the years I have become pretty efficient so.... That being said, I have found ways around having to get a bigger compressor. For example buffing - I use electric), I don't do a ton of sand blasting, I DA one panel at a time, then take a coffee break :), I take my time and think - etc. I do plan on getting a new one some day but it will be around the same size maybe a Quincy (USA) - I don't need anything bigger - it can spray a whole car continuously no problem and do all the mechanical work I need done - I never really think about it actually so that says something right there. Let me know what you end up getting if you do buy bigger. Jerry
there is more basic things to do first, the first one is to locate the compressor air intake where the air is the dryer possible if you wet the floor of your garage when painting, the second is install an aftercooler between the compressor pump and the air tank to insure that the tank stays cool, another way is to install e lenght of hose that you'll drop in a drum filled with cold water then install a filter so the air will be cooled and the water will trap before reaching the spray gun.
Thanks for the tips and input - have a good weekend :)
Get it amazon?
I got it from JBtools $69.00 - www.jbtools.com/motor-guard-m-30-compressed-air-filter-sub-micronic-45-cfm/ - You might find it cheaper elsewhere though.
@@LakesideAutobody do u think work good on plasma cutter hot summer day ?
@@73superglide62 I think it would work fine - might have to change the TP roll if you're using it for really long periods of time:)
Change a roll tp every day
@@73superglide62 Maybe try some real cheap stuff from Dollar General too. I'm not sure how long a roll would last because I only use it for painting :)
where can i get the tp filter? thanks, bill in w mich
www.jbtools.com/motor-guard-m-30-compressed-air-filter-sub-micronic-45-cfm/ Have a good weekend:)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks gonna be nice out
Lashed rain here for the last 2 weeks, place is awash - despite us having "fancy" traps for moisture all around our air system, draining the compressor & lines frequently.... damn water in the lines today.. not much turns a respray job South so fast as water coming through the airline.. Bain in the pollocks barely covers it when there's moisture coming into the gun and you're busy spraying a roof. Inline trap on the gun too.. where does the moisture drip out of? Just before the on-gun trap, naturally. Down onto the roof... GRRRR!
Moisture is horrible really. Those are the variables though - there's a lot of them - bugs, temperature, humidity, forgetfulness, haste, dust, orange peel, runs, draggin' the hose across the fresh paint, etc. Thanks for you entertaining story JW :)
0:28 "If you are scared of spiders like me". Nice, you identify as a spider : ).
That's called something when you can take a sentence multiple ways 👍😊
You never have issues with the toilet paper coming apart?
I have not but if I use the toilet paper it's only a one time use like say I'm painting a whole car or something else that needs dry air but not a show car :)
Clever Dad ~~~
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
so Charmin TP ... in a ... 'pinch'
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1-2 $ for disposable harbor freight air seperator.... the good ol days, sheesh....
The cure to fisheye 👍
Well if you do use toilet paper u dont need motor guard
dont paint with charmin in your motorgaurd it fills your paint with fibers
Thanks for the warning 🔥👍🥴