Wheel Bearing Replacement Chevrolet Suburban 1992-1999
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we show how to replace a failed wheel bearing on the Chevrolet Suburban from years 1992-1999.
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*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
After 2 days of searching I found this video. THANK YOU!!! 99 OBS c1500 is so hard to find correct information
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Put the gease and bearing into a plastic bag and squeeze them together. It's a less messy way to pack them.
Lol. I never thought about that.
Sounds logical to me. And a lot less messy.
This video was super helpful thank you for posting. It's my 1st time doing bearings and I'm nervous. But this showed me that I wasn't missing any steps
You didn’t put a new race in for the inner bearing. Did you use the old one or is the race machined in? Thanks
We are glad you liked it please subscribe
Good work
Thanks 2crpros
Man you a life saver Now i have to do mine today Thanks 💯💯💯💯💯💯
On the back of the rotor (the second bearing they replaced) he put the new bearing into the old race(or "sleeve" as he calls it)???
Noticed that too
@@travishart4706 well that’s okay in SOME cases. That’s if the bearings didn’t have a catastrophic failure. If it was me the next time I did bearing I’d replace both
Is this the same set up for 92 chevy c1500 truck 2wd
yep do not tighten that castle nut. just burned up some brand new bearings. at least it was only 4$
very nice, i gave it a thumbs up...
+mimonteboi Thanks please subscribe so we can keep making good content for you, and like us on facebook.
U guys are awesome
So are you! Thank you for watching!
my 2500 six lug 2wd needed both bearings a few days ago. the outter bearing was in 6 peices. the washer and cotter pin was missing. i pulled the rotor off and everything fell out of it.
Lucky
Thank you for sharing this video great work thank you again
Glad you enjoyed it!
Could I buy two of the Acdelco bearings to use for inner and outer?
I have a 97 and I looked up that bearing you had from Acdelco on gm site and it says 2wd but my year truck is listed as compatible with that bearing. So would those still work for my 4x4 97 k1500 or would I need different bearings?
4x4 trucks use different bearings. It's honestly easier just to do the whole hub and bearing assembly at once so you may as well. Usually around 80-100$ a side.
Well done!
Thanks for watching Gary!
nice video
Excellent Video! (but just to be a mild critic, it's actually called a "race" not a "sleeve".
Maybe the same as they call fenders "wings" in the UK... (lol)
Quite right! Like how you say "bonnets" instead of "hoods" I love learning the different names for things in British English and American English. Thank you for watching!
I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe the front diff stop turning because of broken internal gears can I remove the diff and axle shaft and drive it until I get a new diff ?
Would the wheel bearings come apart ?
I'm gonna tell you I have a 97 2wd that the back axle locked up doing about 70mph.
I stomped the clutch and it rolled again. ( diff is still locked up)
Then pulled about 50 miles in neutral.
Case #2.
I've had the c.v joint in front drive shaft go bad. And pulled the front drive shaft. Drove it over a year without the front drive shaft. With no problems.
So. Yes it should work.
I know the comment is a year old. But I figure this may help someone.
Whu didn't you replace the inner bearing sleeve?
Never saw the rubber part of the seal go on the Spindle ???
Why would you replace inter bearing and not the race too? I was taught both bearing and race was replaced together.
Thank you, I've noticed that too!
I thought bearings and seals were marked with a universal part #?
Awesome homie I need to do my truck badly
Go for it!
When I bought the bearings I only got sold one set not two.i got duralast says count1 piece on box.crazy.i got a 99 suburban c1500.
I have an 88 chev 2500 2wd.Look exactly like this but I don't seem to have that inner sleeve. Should there be one on this year?Thanks in advance.
Al Zedder when you go to a reputable parts store they should be able to tell you that
Sleeves aka called races Are Included to have 1 Wear Into the other. If They Don't have Removable (Sleeve/Race) one it is machined in which Would be highly Unlikely. If Its Missing, .. It Either self Distructed or aliens took it bcz With-out race/Sleeve, ... it'd wobble like hell. 2500 = 3/4 ton = 6 lug same Bearing/Race combination style as 5 lug 1/2 ton same as my 268 k Mile S10 & same as Decades of old Chevies/GMC's
@@Nomadcreations that's not 100%
Some 2500 are 6 lug.
Some are 8 lug.
The 6 lug are same as 1/2. BECAUSE THEY REALLY ARE 1/2 NOT 3/4 TON.
If you have a 6 lug it is a 1/2. It's what in the 70s GM called a heavy 1/2.
What this is, is your suspension is 3/4 TON. But your axle and breaking is 1/2 TON.
If you want A real 3/4 TON buy an 8 lug.
But that really isn't true either because....
CARRY WIEGHT
C10 = 1000LBS ( HALF A TON)
F100 = 1000 LBS.
F150 = 1500 LBS ( 3/4 of a ton)
C20 = 2000 LBS ( 1 ton)
F250 = 2500 LBS ( 1 and 1/4 ton)
C 30 = 3000 lbs ( 1 and half ton)
F350 = 3500 LBS ( 1 and 3/4 ton)
Note GMC ADDED A 5 ( EXAMPLE 25 SAME as C 20 in chevy)
When Chevy changed to the thousand series....
C1500 = 1500 LBS (3/4 ton)
C2500 = 2500 LBS ( 1 and 1/4 ton)
C 3500 = 3500 LBS (1 And 3/4 ton)
Now to throw a monkey wrench in GM.
Don't remember the number for the heavy halts. But they were 1500 lbs or 3/4 TON.
And then we add the camper specials. Lol. That added another 1500 lbs.
So back when you had the C20 and the C 30. A C20 camper special could carry more weight 3500lbs then a C30 3000 lbs.
And this is true. The old man had a c20 camper special and grandpa had a c30. SAME weight in both. The c30 squatted down more. ( both truck had 2 tons, or 4000 lbs in the bed.
Back to the 6 lug 2500s. They lack the breaking power. You are wasting your money. Because you can do the same with a 1500, for less money. Unless you want the breaking power. In which case buy a 8 lug.
I only buy 8 lug truck. Because I like to stop and not be push forward from the weight I'm carrying or pulling. ( in a half ton I once was pulling too much weight going down hill. Stop sign in middle of hill. Load pushed me through stop. My truck put the car I hits engine on the passages fender. Damage to truck. Had to replace front bumper. Damage to car. Lol. Engine removal. )
And if you are really pulling weight. I hear trailer breaks are a plus.
Btw dodge is the same. But I don't recall dodges numbers.
10, 100, 1000 = 1000 LBS
15, 150, 1500 = 1500 LBS
ECT ect....
And yes the famous F250 is rated higher then the c20.
One more thing I just remembered.
C65 = 6500 LBS. But they often carried more then that. Those air breaks make a big difference. Even air over hydraulic was a big difference.
@@pychohobo1832 Thank You, after i Read your post i do remember long ago an aquaintance had a 6 lug heavy half & it Baffled Me . & yes Braking Inadequacy with smaller brakes is a dangerous issue as you found out the hard way. Thank You for all the info .
Any recommendations on getting the first bearing out it seems to be stuck
use a slide hammer if needed
A larger hammer?
what do u do when the old race gets stuck on the new from using it to bang in the new one?
You will need to push them both out from the back side, the idea is not to hammer it in too far as to get stuck, sorry.
+2CarPros thanks for the help
Take The old race with 1/16 Angle grinder Blade SliceTo Smaller Diameter-ize it, Goes In & Out Nice. If you don't Slice it, Be carefull bcz to Knock The old Spacer one out That you don't gouge The new one Otherwise, then shortly you get the same wonderfull experience to Do IT ALL OVER AGAIN!!!
NO, The Outside race Comes out Thru the outside Opening, & The inner Race thru The inner Outword direction(Meaning Towards A-Frame.) Of The Center hole
M
I heard you have to torque the nut then back it off. kind of removing any slack.
+EBBCO REPAIRS You never torque the axle nut, this would ruin the bearing you should tighten it to take the slake out then back the nut off to give it a slight amount of slack.
+2CarPros Thank you. I didnt mean torque as in footpounds. just like bring it in tight, remove slack. then back off until washer can just be moved with little force.
Yes back it off so there is a little bit of play then insert the cotter pin.
@@ebbcorepairs3253 it's called preloading, I've seen recommendations as high as 30ft-lbs for some vehicles.
@@2carpros @Taxi Rob is right. I've always learned to preload a tapered bearing.
Fail and face palm with using Johnsons carb cleaner when cleaning the rotors. In addition to acetone and methanol it has 15% heptane and toluene which are light hydrocarbons that are derived from oil. They are meant to keep your carb from flash rusting. Otherwise thanks for sharing...
It works, I really don't know what you are getting at. Thanks for watching...
+2CarPros it means carb cleaner leaves oily residue on the brake rotors
There's a perfect " sweet spot " right between too tight and too loose . I tighten it just until it starts to get harder to turn but still turns , then back it off just until it gets easy again , then grab the rotor and try and shake it just to be sure
Working with.
1997 C3500 dually 2wd.
Want to change from the dually front to the standard front.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
I believe I can just change the brake rotors on the front to standard rotor.
.... so is this correct? If not tell me what else I need to do.
Nice
What did you use to remove the caliper
3/8 Allen head
9mm Allen head works too. I know I’m late but it might help someone scrolling the comments.
Is this the same for a 99 Tahoe front wheel drive 5 lug?
Very similar! Thank you for watching Matt!
You have a front wheel drive Tahoe? Interesting
@@Clamjammer honestly I'm not sure how that got typed that way... lol it was definitely a rear wheel drive tahoe. But I was trying to do the front wheels.
same process for the rear?
Don't you Back off The Nut 1 Hole? For the Heat Expansion Concept?
Yes, better a little loose than tight.
Thanx , Challenge is 1 complete notch seems 2 loose & The other seems 2 Tight, Dilema Of Reality... :)
I always take the castle nut down to 20" pounds or so spending the road or forwards and then back to castle nut up to no interference
Same from 88 to 98
did you change the inner race?
Yes
NO! You 'clearly' DID NOT replace the 'inner race'! Look again. It is still laying on the table after you open the second, 'new bearing'. You only knocked out one of the races too, NOT both of them.
5:20 ... in the video. Look, you left the 'old race' in the hub. 5:49 ... in the video. Look where you left the 'NEW RACE'!!! It's sitting on the table right by the new bearing box! THANKS for showing me ... how NOT to replace my 97 Chevy Tahoe wheel bearing and race. Hell I, learned how to do this 'on the farm' but thought I'd look up videos to coincide with my Haynes Repair Manual. 'Nice try' ... Mr. CarPro???
If New race not installed, The bearing won't "Break In" Right for longevity
@@yalltoocorrect You're absolutely right and I caught that too . Unless he realized and went back off camera and changed it .
Outstanding!
Thank you! :)
Very good vid but why oh why snip the other arm of the cotter pin bend it around the castle nut ....
You can but this is the way I do it. Thanks for watching!
how tight does the keeper nut have to be??
ungabungaable - Tighten hub nut to 12 ft-lbs/16 Nm while
rotating wheel. Back off and finger tighten. Back
off slightly to install cotter pin. Found this online.
i have had to change them twice on same hub and the hub keeps burning the bearings, i have packed them and the hub this time but you can smell it burning the high tempt grease, i dunno if the hub is bad or the stem is bent but i cant drive it like that.
Yeah, I had that same problem once. One side was good and the bearings held up but the other side the bearing burnt out and blew apart. GOOD LUCK!
Get Timken bearings. They're the good US bearings, china ones are fine but I replace them in trailers all day long and it's worth it to go with the better stuff. They half ass packed the hub, you need to actually clean all the dirt and everything out of it and take your time greasing every surface inside the hub. Make sure the bearing has enough grease in it, get a cup and fill the bottom 1/4 with grease and just push the bearings through it a few times.
@@goddzirra Timken set 3 and set 5 for the C1500
Never was able to get the sleeves out on front or back of my 99. Had to use the ones that were in there.
Torch it and crack it off
Not the best, but has work for me in the past.
Bad thing is that the stuck one are the ones with the most wear. So higher chance of not working.
But sometime you just don't have a choose. Just remember if you have to do it again. Replace the hub also.
are the inner and outer the same bearing ?
No
This is for 2WD, not 4x4.
+David Jackson yes it is a 2wd
I'm doing this job on mine in a couple days, thank you!!!
I can't even take wheel off idk if I need to remove the center first or what
Who else really hates Root Insurance? Such annoying ad. Sounds like they say “hey, we’re RUDE” and they are!
Uhhh, am I missing something? You just showed everyone that all you need to remove that hub nut is a pair of pliers? Nah man. No mention of socket size. Nothing. Just twist that bad boy off with absolutely no effort. With pliers.
Just get to the point. Stop zooming up and spinning playing with the bearings 🤦🏼