Run it in properly on a stand keeping it rich for a bit. were the batteries are there is a little tool for setting up the end points. crucial to set up fail safe on the receiver as they will run away if u don't. after 4 or 5 tanks start driving it around figure eights. Then start leaning top end till your happy. When comfortable start to lean bottom end tiny bits at a time compensating higher revs by decreasing idle. They can be fiddly but when you get it right they go pretty hard. Then set front camber 2 degrees And rear 3 degrees this will help stop traction rolling. Also set your shocks zero rebound so it doesn't bounce around everywhere. Most importantly always start it on a stand. Never run with body off unless tuning. Set end points and failsafe. As well as camber and zero shock rebound. If u mess up the tune refer to the owner manual for factory settings. And if u need any further advice hit me up
hey you preach everyone should just get along yet you send me a comment 😴😪. How do you think that makes me feel. I put a lot of time and effort into rc. I live in a small room in a guest house I've a bed, tv and fridge the rest of the space is all my rc stuff and tools. For me to run my stuff I have to pack all 3 in travel suitcases and load them onto a removalist trolley with my tools then walk 1and half Kim's to the nearest spot. Then pack up and walk back. I've a hpi bullet 3.0 nitro Mt, kyosho inferno mp9 tki4 nitro with a alpha race spec engine and pipe matching clutch etc also have a kyosho inferno neo 2.0 nitro i rebuilt from the ground up to race spec by adding the 2nd ring and pinion gears to all 3 diffs, added anti roll bars a 3 shoe clutch rebuilt the shocks added the ke21sp engine with new crank I installed. Has the matching tune pipe for the ke21sp. the car came out in 1996 and now looks brand new. All 3 of my cars are tuned dialed the only time they stall is when they are out of fuel. They drop down to idle immediately when off throttle. All suspension and camber ride height shock rebound is correctly set up. You will hardly see my stuff traction roll. And every time I take them out they look like the day I purchased them. Long story short if the upload does not interest you keep scrolling. Being a troll is not getting along with everyone. I can tune, wrench, build and upgrade. But I'm not going to be the guy who tit for tats or wants to argue. I'd just rather you keep scrolling there is no need to put any one's rc down....
If u want to get nasty it's not quantity its quality set up drivability and tune diff oil set up shock oil set up rebound and spring selection gearing clutch pipe selection and the driver. GPS any of your greasy Italian moded engines in any of your cars and ill do the same with my kyosho inferno mp9 tki4 nitro with a race spec alpha t850 5p engine clutch and pipe garenteed it would smack what u got. Its set up tune and drivability. Its like comparing a ferrari to a blown top alcohol I no were my money goes. And talking bout experience. I've got back into rc in the last few months.previously I'd had every thing from race kits rtr's nitro boats rollers truggy's especially buggies on roads at least 15 year's experience. Like I say it's quality not quantity tune and set up and drivability.drivings not Not brap brap brap stall brap brap brap stall. You talk a good game but video doesn't lie...
![ง้อ (ALRIGHT) - FOURTH [ TEASER ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ya6MBfo-Wvg/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video. I have just bought one for xmas. 😊
Run it in properly on a stand keeping it rich for a bit. were the batteries are there is a little tool for setting up the end points. crucial to set up fail safe on the receiver as they will run away if u don't. after 4 or 5 tanks start driving it around figure eights. Then start leaning top end till your happy. When comfortable start to lean bottom end tiny bits at a time compensating higher revs by decreasing idle. They can be fiddly but when you get it right they go pretty hard. Then set front camber 2 degrees And rear 3 degrees this will help stop traction rolling. Also set your shocks zero rebound so it doesn't bounce around everywhere. Most importantly always start it on a stand. Never run with body off unless tuning. Set end points and failsafe. As well as camber and zero shock rebound. If u mess up the tune refer to the owner manual for factory settings. And if u need any further advice hit me up
Troy was it hard to start when new? I can buy a new one for $299.99 U.S.D. Should I buy???
Reasonably easy to run in, if you really want one I've only good things to say about it. Great value for money 💯
😢😴
??
hey you preach everyone should just get along yet you send me a comment 😴😪. How do you think that makes me feel. I put a lot of time and effort into rc. I live in a small room in a guest house I've a bed, tv and fridge the rest of the space is all my rc stuff and tools. For me to run my stuff I have to pack all 3 in travel suitcases and load them onto a removalist trolley with my tools then walk 1and half Kim's to the nearest spot. Then pack up and walk back. I've a hpi bullet 3.0 nitro Mt, kyosho inferno mp9 tki4 nitro with a alpha race spec engine and pipe matching clutch etc also have a kyosho inferno neo 2.0 nitro i rebuilt from the ground up to race spec by adding the 2nd ring and pinion gears to all 3 diffs, added anti roll bars a 3 shoe clutch rebuilt the shocks added the ke21sp engine with new crank I installed. Has the matching tune pipe for the ke21sp. the car came out in 1996 and now looks brand new. All 3 of my cars are tuned dialed the only time they stall is when they are out of fuel. They drop down to idle immediately when off throttle. All suspension and camber ride height shock rebound is correctly set up. You will hardly see my stuff traction roll. And every time I take them out they look like the day I purchased them. Long story short if the upload does not interest you keep scrolling. Being a troll is not getting along with everyone. I can tune, wrench, build and upgrade. But I'm not going to be the guy who tit for tats or wants to argue. I'd just rather you keep scrolling there is no need to put any one's rc down....
If u want to get nasty it's not quantity its quality set up drivability and tune diff oil set up shock oil set up rebound and spring selection gearing clutch pipe selection and the driver. GPS any of your greasy Italian moded engines in any of your cars and ill do the same with my kyosho inferno mp9 tki4 nitro with a race spec alpha t850 5p engine clutch and pipe garenteed it would smack what u got. Its set up tune and drivability. Its like comparing a ferrari to a blown top alcohol I no were my money goes. And talking bout experience. I've got back into rc in the last few months.previously I'd had every thing from race kits rtr's nitro boats rollers truggy's especially buggies on roads at least 15 year's experience. Like I say it's quality not quantity tune and set up and drivability.drivings not Not brap brap brap stall brap brap brap stall. You talk a good game but video doesn't lie...