Just a little clarification. What you say @5:25 is completely true. That is, Adam Ondra was the only climber to find a kneebar move on the route, which is very impressive! However, the strange-looking position shown in the picture, was not it.
These breakdowns are amazing thank you, +1 sub and covering climbing news through the year is great too. For the Olympic finals in the lead & boulder, do the previous points carry forward or is it reset?
You are very welcome! I'm glad you are enjoying the breakdowns 👍🏻👍🏻 Moving into the final it will be a reset of scores for all the competitors. They'll have a new boulder round and a new lead round, basically with the same format and scoring system but starting from 0 points again. I believe for the boulder final they will get an observation period of the 4 boulders, unlike in the semifinal. I can't wait!! And thanks so much for your comment 🙂
What’s the incentive for Sorato to try hard on the lead when he’s virtually guaranteed a finals spot? Wouldn’t it be wise for Toby and Sorato to just score high enough to get into finals but not empty their gas tank trying to completely top the route? I know they don’t know the exact scores but can’t they read the audience or know when they’ve gone high enough to get into finals?
I think ties are broken by count-back. Meaning that if Sorato ties with someone in the final, then he will win because he has a better semifinal score.
That's a great point, Nicholas! Other things to consider are: in the moment they don't really know for certain where they need to get to secure a spot in the final (better safe than sorry). They have a full day of rest in advance of the final. And I suppose there's the aspect of getting some more practice and confidence on the lead wall. I do think you're right though that they may not be trying quite as hard in the semifinal as they will in the final when it's all on the line!
I follow climbing pretty closely, and I haven't noticed people saying that. It's not the format, but people might have been saying that about this competition because the boulder semifinals had a high score around 70 (kind of low) out of 100. But, since the setters also made the lead route very hard and low scoring, there is not much to that argument either. I hope that makes some sense. Basically, in theory, the combined format gives the exact same importance to bouldering as to lead; each one counts for a maximum of 100 points.
@@pumpkini586 Yeah, but the routesetters are just people who can make mistakes even if they are doing their best to make climbs at the right level. Basically, they guessed wrong with the bouldering, creating two problems that nobody could do. This is not ideal, but sometimes it happens. So, your constructive criticism of the job they did is not unfair.
Just a little clarification. What you say @5:25 is completely true. That is, Adam Ondra was the only climber to find a kneebar move on the route, which is very impressive! However, the strange-looking position shown in the picture, was not it.
Ah yes, good clarification Adam! I wish I had found a better picture that actually showed that knee-bar... it was quite impressive indeed 👍🏻👍🏻
These breakdowns are amazing thank you, +1 sub and covering climbing news through the year is great too. For the Olympic finals in the lead & boulder, do the previous points carry forward or is it reset?
You are very welcome! I'm glad you are enjoying the breakdowns 👍🏻👍🏻 Moving into the final it will be a reset of scores for all the competitors. They'll have a new boulder round and a new lead round, basically with the same format and scoring system but starting from 0 points again. I believe for the boulder final they will get an observation period of the 4 boulders, unlike in the semifinal. I can't wait!! And thanks so much for your comment 🙂
Aleksandra Miroslaw is soo good 🤯
Mind-blown emoji is the right choice!! 🤯👍🏻👍🏻
What’s the incentive for Sorato to try hard on the lead when he’s virtually guaranteed a finals spot? Wouldn’t it be wise for Toby and Sorato to just score high enough to get into finals but not empty their gas tank trying to completely top the route? I know they don’t know the exact scores but can’t they read the audience or know when they’ve gone high enough to get into finals?
I think ties are broken by count-back. Meaning that if Sorato ties with someone in the final, then he will win because he has a better semifinal score.
@@nicholasbabelthuap8696 Ahh good point
That's a great point, Nicholas! Other things to consider are: in the moment they don't really know for certain where they need to get to secure a spot in the final (better safe than sorry). They have a full day of rest in advance of the final. And I suppose there's the aspect of getting some more practice and confidence on the lead wall. I do think you're right though that they may not be trying quite as hard in the semifinal as they will in the final when it's all on the line!
Satll 1:01
@@shreenivastupsakri3048 thanks for your comment 👍🏻👍🏻
Why are people saying this format favors lead climbers? They are saying the scoring system benefits lead climbers?
I follow climbing pretty closely, and I haven't noticed people saying that. It's not the format, but people might have been saying that about this competition because the boulder semifinals had a high score around 70 (kind of low) out of 100. But, since the setters also made the lead route very hard and low scoring, there is not much to that argument either. I hope that makes some sense. Basically, in theory, the combined format gives the exact same importance to bouldering as to lead; each one counts for a maximum of 100 points.
@@adamhaas141 I think they were saying that because Boulder was 70 and lead was 100
That makes sense, except that lead turned out to be only 72, pretty much the same!😅
@@adamhaas141 But if you look at the Boulder top 5 scores their average is a lot lower than the lead’s top 5 average.
@@pumpkini586 Yeah, but the routesetters are just people who can make mistakes even if they are doing their best to make climbs at the right level. Basically, they guessed wrong with the bouldering, creating two problems that nobody could do. This is not ideal, but sometimes it happens. So, your constructive criticism of the job they did is not unfair.