🎥🎻Online violin making course: obrienguitars.com/courses/violin ⚒️ Some of the tools, strings and equipment I use: - Excel version: www.dropbox.com/s/c6n6zq7om6hqo9g/Tools.xlsx?dl=0 - Pdf: www.dropbox.com/s/5ua7zy0e3h2olm2/Tools.pdf?dl=0 Other media: ♦ www.lucasfabro.com ♦ Instagram: instagram.com/fabroviolins/ ♦ Facebook: facebook.com/fabroviolins/ns/
Thank you very much for the comment! Well, it's one of the reasons why I do this, I think that if I was the client I'd be happy to see how the instrument is being made :)
respectfully disagree with your assessment - the proper way is with the blade down the table... not on top of another tool, but on the wooden surface, away from exposing the blade against your safety
I’m sure my father would disagree with you on that , he could sharpen a blade you could shave with . If I forgot to lay a plane on it’s side I would know about it . I think that generation weren’t as concerned about safety as we are , if you cut yourself too bad for being stupid was the attitude . Thank you for your comment 😊
Never thought to find myself watching someone woodworking for fifteen minutes, but this was both relaxing and fascinating. :D I'm excited to check out the rest of the videos and see how the violin turns out!
Thank you very much for your comment!! It helps the channel a lot, and of course it's even better if it's as nice as yours! I'm very happy that you find them relaxing and interesting at the same time :) Looking forward to seeing you in the other videos!
Made a mistake with the editing at the very last minute so some of the colours (specially the intro) are a bit weird, but any feedback on how the new format looks like is more than welcome!
If you're looking for constructive feedback, here goes my opinion: 1. The short black screen transitions look like there was an editing issue. I am not sure they are even needed, but if they are, it might help if they weren't plain. 2. I don't know if it's my screen, but I'd like more light. Maybe that interferes with the work so nothing can be done, but that's just what I see. Now for the things that I appreciated that I don't often see: 1. I like the realistic hand tool sounds. 2. I like that you aren't overdoing the ASMR artistry of looking at the wood at all angles for an hour and then crying at how beautiful it is, or similar things. 3. I like that your bench isn't squeaky like Davide Sora's :)
@@wmcrash thank you very very much for the comment and it’s exactly what I wanted! Yes, had an editing issue with the black screens and some of them are too long I think. Took ages to edit so some of the things I decided to leave in spite of knowing that they’re not great. I purposely made them quite dark as I feel like it got more of the vibe of the actually workshop but I’ll definitely keep this you just said in mind. I might making it a bit more bright for the next one and then even more so that there’s not so much of a difference between them. And thanks as well for the positive feedback! In fact if I ever make an asmr video it’ll just be asmr with violin making that I can fall asleep to haha, while I want this one to still be a violin making video. Overall, I hope you enjoyed it :)
Thanks Lucas - also have your Obrien vids - but nowhere - even in texts - does it address the cutting of the top and bottom plates when they are at an angle (wedge). I see you marking the corpus shape on the flat surface, and cutting with the wedge shape down on the bandsaw - But does this not leave the plate sides at an angle? Maybe this does not matter? tks :-)
Hi! Thanks for your comment and I hope you're enjoying the videos :) If I understood the question correctly, then you want to know why I'm using the "outside" part of the block of wood as the one that'll be the flat one and the central one (where the cut is made) for the arching, and not the other way round (which would be "easier" because they're already in square)? Please correct me if I'm wrong or let me know if I got the question right haha. But if that's the question, then there are a couple of reasons. first of all is that this way, on the side of the arching (the visible one after all), I'll have more symmetry. To explain this I always draw a line joining both pieces and try to show where the'll be "closer". The other reason is that usually, and according to how the block of wood was cut, then the grain tends to be straighter and eventually at 90 degrees there. I get the feeling the answer was not very clear haha, but let me know if you got at least part of it!
Hey, look at this new editing! Some really cool shots in there, I love it :-D The colour grading is maybe a little flat/desaturated for my taste, but apart from that I loved every bit of it!
Oh, and completely unrelated to this... Before I saw your video I was browsing the ol' internet looking for answers, didn't really find one. I ran into the same issue I have had so many times: How do you decide the F hole width of a violin? I just finished a pair, on a Strad model and they're looking lovely, but I measured and they're inly 5,7 or so at the widest point, so fitting a 6mm post or even a 5,5 one might be an issue. Would you make them 6,5 for instance to make post fitting easy or just accept having to insert the post through the eye? Or maybe usie a 5,5mm post, I'm not sure if that is actually an issue...
Thanks! I made a big mistake with the editing at the end and I couldn't restore the previous version so that was a bit annoying and some of the colours and clarity didn't come as I wanted. But all the feedback is good because even if I want to make it with quite a "dark" vibe, I still know that the way I see it might not be the way others do (also I'm always editing with the brightness at max!)
@@Tostra1997About your second message, I'll give you what I'm sure will be a disappointing answer for you, but that is that I make the f-holes thick enough so that any regular sound post can go through (so over 6.5mm). One of the biggest advantages of modern instruments should be how easy it's to deal with them, so whenever the soundpost is changed (and it will have to be changed) it shouldn't be a problem for the luthier who's doing it and that's often not the person who made the instrument. Putting a smaller soundpost will definitely affect the sound of the instrument and I don't really think it's worth it...so...yeah, quite disappointing because I know how elegant the thin f-holes can look!
@@LucasFabro I understand, it happens. And I think I know what you were going for too, and I like that. It ended up a little washed out, like what you get if you do a reverse luma curve or something. But not so bad, really. And, no, not that disappointing. I agree, I really do. It should fit modern standards to be easy to work with, like you say. I have done the same thing with every other instrument so far, so even if the template would be too small, I enlarge it. I wouldn't if I were making a true copy, but for my "modeled after"-instruments, I think it's okay, even if it's scary to go free hand. I'll follow your advice and make them at least 6,2mm or so to easily fit a 6mm sound post. I think adding 1mm is too much for these, but I can do 0,5-0,7 without taking too much away from the elegance I think. Thanks for that, now I can at least make a more confident decision :-D
Hi! Thanks for your message. Yes, you're correct!! That's exactly what I do. The idea is for the wood to absorbe the glue initially for a couple of different reasons. First of all, is so that when I do the actual glueing, then I can be sure that the wood won't absorbe "too much", and then there's not enough glue on the surface of the wood to get the two pieces joint together. Another reason is that after this first time I put the glue, sometimes the wood gets a bit "deformed", so when I make it for the second time, if the piece of wood already absorbed some of the glue, it's going to be much more stable and better to glue the joints. Of course this only works if I manage to make the joint for the "second time" removing as little wood as possible, if not I have to repeat the process again. I hope I was clear as I feel like I made a mess explaining that!
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
🎥🎻Online violin making course: obrienguitars.com/courses/violin
⚒️ Some of the tools, strings and equipment I use:
- Excel version: www.dropbox.com/s/c6n6zq7om6hqo9g/Tools.xlsx?dl=0
- Pdf: www.dropbox.com/s/5ua7zy0e3h2olm2/Tools.pdf?dl=0
Other media:
♦ www.lucasfabro.com
♦ Instagram: instagram.com/fabroviolins/
♦ Facebook: facebook.com/fabroviolins/ns/
This has got to be the coolest thing for the client who gets this violin.
Thank you very much for the comment!
Well, it's one of the reasons why I do this, I think that if I was the client I'd be happy to see how the instrument is being made :)
Asmr I can actually get into 💪🏾
Finally , someone on TH-cam who can put a Plane down properly . Very interesting to see what is involved in construction , thank you for showing us .
Haha, I’m sure there must be plenty 🙃
Thank you so much for your comment!
I’m glad you enjoyed the video :)
respectfully disagree with your assessment - the proper way is with the blade down the table... not on top of another tool, but on the wooden surface, away from exposing the blade against your safety
I’m sure my father would disagree with you on that , he could sharpen a blade you could shave with . If I forgot to lay a plane on it’s side I would know about it . I think that generation weren’t as concerned about safety as we are , if you cut yourself too bad for being stupid was the attitude . Thank you for your comment 😊
Never thought to find myself watching someone woodworking for fifteen minutes, but this was both relaxing and fascinating. :D I'm excited to check out the rest of the videos and see how the violin turns out!
Thank you very much for your comment!! It helps the channel a lot, and of course it's even better if it's as nice as yours!
I'm very happy that you find them relaxing and interesting at the same time :)
Looking forward to seeing you in the other videos!
Thanks! really good vids to support "The Art of Violin Making".
Thank you so much!! It means a lot to know that these videos are appreciated considering how long it takes to make them! :)
I found my new asmr, violin making
Great! I think in the future I'll make one that's more ASMR specific:)
Looking forward to the next video！
Thanks :)
Will probably be next Friday!
Made a mistake with the editing at the very last minute so some of the colours (specially the intro) are a bit weird, but any feedback on how the new format looks like is more than welcome!
If you're looking for constructive feedback, here goes my opinion:
1. The short black screen transitions look like there was an editing issue. I am not sure they are even needed, but if they are, it might help if they weren't plain.
2. I don't know if it's my screen, but I'd like more light. Maybe that interferes with the work so nothing can be done, but that's just what I see.
Now for the things that I appreciated that I don't often see:
1. I like the realistic hand tool sounds.
2. I like that you aren't overdoing the ASMR artistry of looking at the wood at all angles for an hour and then crying at how beautiful it is, or similar things.
3. I like that your bench isn't squeaky like Davide Sora's :)
@@wmcrash thank you very very much for the comment and it’s exactly what I wanted!
Yes, had an editing issue with the black screens and some of them are too long I think. Took ages to edit so some of the things I decided to leave in spite of knowing that they’re not great.
I purposely made them quite dark as I feel like it got more of the vibe of the actually workshop but I’ll definitely keep this you just said in mind. I might making it a bit more bright for the next one and then even more so that there’s not so much of a difference between them.
And thanks as well for the positive feedback! In fact if I ever make an asmr video it’ll just be asmr with violin making that I can fall asleep to haha, while I want this one to still be a violin making video.
Overall, I hope you enjoyed it :)
For some reason I'm really tempted to build a violin now!
Haha, hopefully I managed to influence a bit on that “for some reason” 😜
You definitely should though, you won’t regret the experience!
@@LucasFabro I still have a few guitars to build first, but I'm sure a violin would be a great challenge.
Thanks Lucas - also have your Obrien vids - but nowhere - even in texts - does it address the cutting of the top and bottom plates when they are at an angle (wedge). I see you marking the corpus shape on the flat surface, and cutting with the wedge shape down on the bandsaw - But does this not leave the plate sides at an angle? Maybe this does not matter? tks :-)
Hi! Thanks for your comment and I hope you're enjoying the videos :)
If I understood the question correctly, then you want to know why I'm using the "outside" part of the block of wood as the one that'll be the flat one and the central one (where the cut is made) for the arching, and not the other way round (which would be "easier" because they're already in square)? Please correct me if I'm wrong or let me know if I got the question right haha.
But if that's the question, then there are a couple of reasons. first of all is that this way, on the side of the arching (the visible one after all), I'll have more symmetry. To explain this I always draw a line joining both pieces and try to show where the'll be "closer". The other reason is that usually, and according to how the block of wood was cut, then the grain tends to be straighter and eventually at 90 degrees there.
I get the feeling the answer was not very clear haha, but let me know if you got at least part of it!
Hey, look at this new editing! Some really cool shots in there, I love it :-D
The colour grading is maybe a little flat/desaturated for my taste, but apart from that I loved every bit of it!
Oh, and completely unrelated to this... Before I saw your video I was browsing the ol' internet looking for answers, didn't really find one. I ran into the same issue I have had so many times: How do you decide the F hole width of a violin? I just finished a pair, on a Strad model and they're looking lovely, but I measured and they're inly 5,7 or so at the widest point, so fitting a 6mm post or even a 5,5 one might be an issue. Would you make them 6,5 for instance to make post fitting easy or just accept having to insert the post through the eye? Or maybe usie a 5,5mm post, I'm not sure if that is actually an issue...
Thanks! I made a big mistake with the editing at the end and I couldn't restore the previous version so that was a bit annoying and some of the colours and clarity didn't come as I wanted. But all the feedback is good because even if I want to make it with quite a "dark" vibe, I still know that the way I see it might not be the way others do (also I'm always editing with the brightness at max!)
@@Tostra1997About your second message, I'll give you what I'm sure will be a disappointing answer for you, but that is that I make the f-holes thick enough so that any regular sound post can go through (so over 6.5mm). One of the biggest advantages of modern instruments should be how easy it's to deal with them, so whenever the soundpost is changed (and it will have to be changed) it shouldn't be a problem for the luthier who's doing it and that's often not the person who made the instrument. Putting a smaller soundpost will definitely affect the sound of the instrument and I don't really think it's worth it...so...yeah, quite disappointing because I know how elegant the thin f-holes can look!
@@LucasFabro I understand, it happens. And I think I know what you were going for too, and I like that. It ended up a little washed out, like what you get if you do a reverse luma curve or something. But not so bad, really.
And, no, not that disappointing. I agree, I really do. It should fit modern standards to be easy to work with, like you say.
I have done the same thing with every other instrument so far, so even if the template would be too small, I enlarge it. I wouldn't if I were making a true copy, but for my "modeled after"-instruments, I think it's okay, even if it's scary to go free hand.
I'll follow your advice and make them at least 6,2mm or so to easily fit a 6mm sound post. I think adding 1mm is too much for these, but I can do 0,5-0,7 without taking too much away from the elegance I think.
Thanks for that, now I can at least make a more confident decision :-D
Did you put glue on, then plane it off again?
Hi! Thanks for your message.
Yes, you're correct!! That's exactly what I do. The idea is for the wood to absorbe the glue initially for a couple of different reasons. First of all, is so that when I do the actual glueing, then I can be sure that the wood won't absorbe "too much", and then there's not enough glue on the surface of the wood to get the two pieces joint together. Another reason is that after this first time I put the glue, sometimes the wood gets a bit "deformed", so when I make it for the second time, if the piece of wood already absorbed some of the glue, it's going to be much more stable and better to glue the joints.
Of course this only works if I manage to make the joint for the "second time" removing as little wood as possible, if not I have to repeat the process again.
I hope I was clear as I feel like I made a mess explaining that!
@@LucasFabro thanks a lot for the explanation, I felt lost at that part of the video.
@@N_3.1415 I'm glad it was helpful :)
How we can order violin from you sir ?
Why do you make the back out of two pieces? I’ve heard one piece is better. Is that not true?
Ciao Ma mica sei italiano Perché sono pure io
Again, no talking, no explaining.
Some people can learn by watching. Others need instructions, and explanations.