This is why you guys are the Pros out there building stuff and I stay in my studio making art. So much to learn and you make it look easy. Thank you for sharing.....
The more I learn about all this the more I admire guys like yourself. How you can remember all this and know where to look for the stuff you can't is just amazing. Welding is a very complex world and I am honored to be allowed to stick my toe in the water with the rest of you guys. Thanks for the info. and chime in anytime.
The fact you're self taught and an amzing welder It has inspired me to learn and self teach myself too. I'm very lucky though because i have your great videos for reference. Kinda like welding correspondance lol.
Mr. Caron, did you ever learn any more about this? Developing a reliable technique in a fillet situation like this would be a real feather in my cap. I probably watch at least one of your videos a day. thanks so much for working so hard at this
Today, if you can buy the equipment anybody can learn anything they want! Thanks to people like you sir, that dedicate their time and share knowledge.... I salute you 🇺🇸👍🏽❤️!!!!
I think it is cool that you are willing to answer specific questions in a video. If I ever learn enough to have a real question, I'm gonna ask ya...Thanks guys!
I try to do all my welding before 9:00am. I do my cutting next and save the grinding for afternoon when I can stand in the blast from the cooler. As for splatter,,, I use the TIG a lot. When I am MIGing I will fine tune the volts and wire feed to get the cleanest weld I can get and then hit it with the softpad on the grinder..
Dave, Could you make a little video about this? I would love to see how you do it and I'm sure Chevelle would like to also. I would post it here and give you the credit....
One or the other or both just a little bit. Take some scrap and try running the same wire feed and just upping the amps. Watch how it flattens and check how much discoloration you are getting on the back side of the weld. When you reach the point that you blow through the metal back up just a little on the amps. Then try the same thing at that amp setting but changing the wire feed. Start a little less by 5 and go over by 5. Should help you zero in on the right setting.
Hey kevin. Is it just me or do longevity machines splatter more than others? My buddy has one & no matter how I tuned it, it still left a little more clean up than im use to. They indeed lay down good metal. Im just looking @ your splatter & its pretty similar to mines.
On carbon steel if u don't have a wps that specific tells what size the weld should be. You run a weld that is the thickness of the plate times 0.7. For example a 10mm plate x 0.7 = a7 mm weld. A bigger weld then that don't bring anymore durability to the construction. Thanks for great videos.
Hey Kevin, I know I probably bug the crap outta you, lol but I usually scroll thru your videos & look for the answer before I ask a question. I'm getting better @ mig welding & can run a decent bead on just about any joint. I have run into one problem & that's when I have to stop welding in the middle of a weld to reposition, change sides, etc. When I start back up and try tying in to where I left off it never looks as good as the rest of the weld. Is there a proper way to tie into a weld?
like your stuff it is cool do you start early in the Arizona morning to make such cool videos. or is it a c in the shop on high lol? seriously how do you control weld splatter on curved small things with multiple welds like chain. nozzle gel or anti splatter needs to be washed off!
Yes blueprint does have weld bead specs. For typical (all) welds then theresweld symbols for non specified welds and type whether it's me all the way around both sides one side stitch weld etcetera etcetera the list is endless almost. I kind of like learning a new alphabet and spelling and language of a whole another language I know that sounds kind of stupid but whatever you kind of get the idea
its not what you think Kevin a welding shop will be certified every time they want to do a new process (stick mig structural/pipe) the QC people (CWB in Canada) will come in and verify they have the machinery/skill to do the new process (welders carry their own tickets on the skill end but are tested by the same people) once a welding shop has been certified to do all position smaw/gmaw the prints will stop reflecting the weld procedure and will only call for specific welds where needed(cont)
(cont) and usually only the welder who will actually be welding those areas(or the foreman) will see those marks on his print (this keeps the prints free of clutter and easier to read because the fitter doesnt need to see the weld symbols everywhere especially when 95% of them are the same weld) some places where you can find the codes for your area AISI=american iron and steel institute ANSI=american national standards institute ASME=american sociaty of mechanical engineers (cont)
local building codes will dictate welds and the engineer will specify whats needed, but the reason your teacher says your welds are too big is because once you go past the strength of the parent metal with your weld anything more is just a waste of time and materials (employers do NOT want you wasting time with big gobby welds no matter how strong they are)
(cont) ASTM=american society for testing materials API=american petrolium institute (pipe welding) (just off the top of my head) you should be able to look up any specific procedure you need for your area thru those sources hope this helps ;)
If you want to call, you can find my number on my contact page on my web site. It would be a lot easier to talk about this than type. I do suffer from fat finger, little keyboard syndrome.
hey man, tell that dude he needs to how to toe his sides better and than learn how to make trangles after watching the two sides kiss like earthworm and than make a trangle follow by the earthworms kisses on both sides )(.. and the right when they are just starting to kiss. hold one side for 2 seconds 1...2.. up 1 down to the other side and hold 1... 2... and than hopefully he can learn vert ups.. but keep teaching the young dumb ones.
This is why you guys are the Pros out there building stuff and I stay in my studio making art.
So much to learn and you make it look easy. Thank you for sharing.....
The more I learn about all this the more I admire guys like yourself. How you can remember all this and know where to look for the stuff you can't is just amazing. Welding is a very complex world and I am honored to be allowed to stick my toe in the water with the rest of you guys.
Thanks for the info. and chime in anytime.
The fact you're self taught and an amzing welder It has inspired me to learn and self teach myself too. I'm very lucky though because i have your great videos for reference. Kinda like welding correspondance lol.
You are too kind my friend! Thank you for your support.
Mr. Caron, did you ever learn any more about this? Developing a reliable technique in a fillet situation like this would be a real feather in my cap. I probably watch at least one of your videos a day. thanks so much for working so hard at this
Today, if you can buy the equipment anybody can learn anything they want! Thanks to people like you sir, that dedicate their time and share knowledge.... I salute you 🇺🇸👍🏽❤️!!!!
Thank you! I do have fun with my job!
I think it is cool that you are willing to answer specific questions in a video. If I ever learn enough to have a real question, I'm gonna ask ya...Thanks guys!
Do you know off the top of your head what a sample of those specs would be? How would they show up on the blue prints?
You are the King, Kevin.
Instead of calling it Earth, they should just call it "Kevin's".
I try to do all my welding before 9:00am. I do my cutting next and save the grinding for afternoon when I can stand in the blast from the cooler. As for splatter,,, I use the TIG a lot. When I am MIGing I will fine tune the volts and wire feed to get the cleanest weld I can get and then hit it with the softpad on the grinder..
Dave, Could you make a little video about this? I would love to see how you do it and I'm sure Chevelle would like to also.
I would post it here and give you the credit....
Yeah, I liked that one also. Great penetration, clean weld and a nice looking bead.
Thanks for posting....
As usual, a very helpful video. Thanks!
One or the other or both just a little bit. Take some scrap and try running the same wire feed and just upping the amps. Watch how it flattens and check how much discoloration you are getting on the back side of the weld. When you reach the point that you blow through the metal back up just a little on the amps. Then try the same thing at that amp setting but changing the wire feed. Start a little less by 5 and go over by 5. Should help you zero in on the right setting.
seems like my beads are always to tall it that because my wire feed is to high or not enough power?
Great story about that door, you ever find yourself in my town I will buy the beer!!
Very true. Thanks for posting...
I think it has a narrower window to be dialed in "correctly", sadly mine almost never is..
that last weld looked best to me. The 21 volts gave you better penetration?
Interesting, I will give it a try.
Thanks for the tip!!
oh and another great vid kevin!
Hey kevin. Is it just me or do longevity machines splatter more than others? My buddy has one & no matter how I tuned it, it still left a little more clean up than im use to. They indeed lay down good metal. Im just looking @ your splatter & its pretty similar to mines.
On carbon steel if u don't have a wps that specific tells what size the weld should be. You run a weld that is the thickness of the plate times 0.7. For example a 10mm plate x 0.7 = a7 mm weld. A bigger weld then that don't bring anymore durability to the construction. Thanks for great videos.
I did not know that! Thanks for posting.
great stuff ,you would make a fantastic teacher!!
Thank you!
I do have one on one classes!
The biggest thing I have learned is to slow down and pay attention to the puddle!
That alone has made me a much better welder!
Hey Kevin, I know I probably bug the crap outta you, lol but I usually scroll thru your videos & look for the answer before I ask a question. I'm getting better @ mig welding & can run a decent bead on just about any joint. I have run into one problem & that's when I have to stop welding in the middle of a weld to reposition, change sides, etc. When I start back up and try tying in to where I left off it never looks as good as the rest of the weld. Is there a proper way to tie into a weld?
like your stuff it is cool do you start early in the Arizona morning to make such cool videos. or is it a c in the shop on high lol? seriously how do you control weld splatter on curved small things with multiple welds like chain. nozzle gel or anti splatter needs to be washed off!
this is good stuff here...Thanks Kevin!
I always pull the torch, but i'm also not a welder.
like your work
Great idea for a video!
Let me do a little research and I will post something up for you...
too much spatter, why is that? are you using straight co2 ?
Nope, argon/co2 mix. Probably didn't have the feed right.
Okay 🙂
Turn off your contact lock, I can't send you a PM.
Yes blueprint does have weld bead specs. For typical (all) welds then theresweld symbols for non specified welds and type whether it's me all the way around both sides one side stitch weld etcetera etcetera the list is endless almost. I kind of like learning a new alphabet and spelling and language of a whole another language I know that sounds kind of stupid but whatever you kind of get the idea
its not what you think Kevin
a welding shop will be certified every time they want to do a new process (stick mig structural/pipe) the QC people (CWB in Canada) will come in and verify they have the machinery/skill to do the new process (welders carry their own tickets on the skill end but are tested by the same people) once a welding shop has been certified to do all position smaw/gmaw the prints will stop reflecting the weld procedure and will only call for specific welds where needed(cont)
(cont) and usually only the welder who will actually be welding those areas(or the foreman) will see those marks on his print (this keeps the prints free of clutter and easier to read because the fitter doesnt need to see the weld symbols everywhere especially when 95% of them are the same weld)
some places where you can find the codes for your area
AISI=american iron and steel institute
ANSI=american national standards institute
ASME=american sociaty of mechanical engineers
(cont)
local building codes will dictate welds and the engineer will specify whats needed, but the reason your teacher says your welds are too big is because once you go past the strength of the parent metal with your weld anything more is just a waste of time and materials (employers do NOT want you wasting time with big gobby welds no matter how strong they are)
(cont)
ASTM=american society for testing materials
API=american petrolium institute (pipe welding)
(just off the top of my head)
you should be able to look up any specific procedure you need for your area thru those sources
hope this helps ;)
Awesome
Getting ready to ban the next person to call me that!!
If you want to call, you can find my number on my contact page on my web site. It would be a lot easier to talk about this than type.
I do suffer from fat finger, little keyboard syndrome.
Come on now,, my head is already too big! No really, I wear a size 7 7/8 hat!!! I got a HUGE head!!
I thought it was just me. I played with it for a hour trying to tune it & I never did get it
self taught -- based
hey man, tell that dude he needs to how to toe his sides better and than learn how to make trangles after watching the two sides kiss like earthworm and than make a trangle follow by the earthworms kisses on both sides )(.. and the right when they are just starting to kiss. hold one side for 2 seconds 1...2.. up 1 down to the other side and hold 1... 2... and than hopefully he can learn vert ups.. but keep teaching the young dumb ones.