The support bearing with that two piece driveshaft! Bought an 02 that would shake down the road, replaced the center support and it took all the shakiness out
I had the same vibration around 45mph. Swapped driveshafts with a junkyard one and it went away so I got my original driveshaft completely rebuilt and it's smooth as butter now.
I just love how one video you are painting a civic then the next you are fixing a WRX then the next you're working on the truck. Its always different. Best variety on the best channel 👌
well so far your not wasting money. those parts all need to be replaced. i like the truck vids. cant wait for the next truck... im not a ford, subaru or honda guy. well i use to do honda's, but im still entertained.
If the rear seat bounces the problem originates from the rear wheels/tires or drive shaft. Steering wheel shake front suspension / tires. When disassembling a U-joint without the benefit of a press use a large well used socket that is deeper than the U-joint bearing cap, a dull chisel and your 32 oz or heavier ballpien hammer to move 1 bearing cap. Reverse and move the off side bearing cap. Much easier than 2 caps at one time. Reassemble as you desire.
I always enjoy the videos. Doesn't really matter what car or truck it is. Your channel is the main reason why I started my own channel. Still new at it all. But I'm sure I will get there. Keep up the great videos. You are an inspiration.
I had that issue you have on my 04. Thought it was coming out of the front turned out.it was the back u joints .once the u joints were replaced .the vibration went away .
next time you do u-joints, if you have a ball joint press (the c-clamp looking style ones) they make quick work of them. the one end has a hole for the adapters for a balljoint cup but its big enough to fit a cap thru, and the threaded part has a blunt end that will push the other cap out of the yoke, you can even re-install them with it
@@D3thM3tal two each his own. I can have a u joint out and back in in about 2 minutes. I use to do the hammer and vice method but when youre trying to hold onto a 40lbs driveshaft its awkward. Plus with my method i can do u joints on driveshafts without removing them from the vehicle.
totally agree with your video frequency Trevor finding that balance is important! However I think the 6.0 is starting to give you an indication of becoming a money pit! Get shot of it and keep the lariat!
I found your channel when you bought the 2011, the Powerstroke videos are my favorite. Definitely check the carrier bearing, tires/wheels and the steering dampener.
Might want to check the ujoint for being centered. I had the same problem on the rear drive shaft, the new ujoint we effectively manufactured from moog. Also make sure the center ujoint isn't stiff and moves freely.
Luckily you took care of it before it became the death wobble on the freeway Trevor! People have opinions of the 6.0, but it can easily be a good motor with some parts overnight from Japan on your tab at Harry’s.. it could decimate all!!!
Just a heads up I would swap that oil filter cap for the motorcraft filter and cap, those Napa/ wix/ autozone ones are not recommended. Also I recommend an alternator from leece Neville or law dog diesel, those stock alts are way underpowered for the 6.0 application, like 165amp. They work yes but for how long is the question. Throw an a leece Neville 230amp and never worry again and have all the amps you’ll ever need for the 230amp glow plug draw. Especially if you live in colder climates like Colorado. Also keeps the batteries alive for longer (like 7-10year lifespan) . Nice vids by the way! Just wanted to give ya some advice from what I’ve experienced with the 6.0’s
Have the drive shaft checked/balanced, also the carrier bearing looks worn out and will cause some major vibration issues. Slip yoke looks like it has some movement too. Better to get it all checked. Good call on the vgt solenoid. Hope that solves the surging issue
Everybody was Elliot from Oregon love videos long-time subscriber I don't call it very often but I had to on this video we had the same problem with a turbo doing this same exact issue last Wednesday at the shop that I run in Lake Oswego Oregon and it was the vgt actuator and the veins on the turbo set it up pulled the turbo off the truck change the vgt actuator clean the turbo on the sit out of it but it reinstalled it turbo work great
Id take it in and have the driveshaft rebuilt. Another thing to think about, I had a pickup that had a bad carrier bearing and it would vibrate like crazy at about 45 mph but it was WAY worse if I had weight in the bed. I like all your videos but I am I huge fan of the truck content. Been a subscriber since the first ls swap in the s14.
The turbo issue is the vgt solenoid which is on the front of the turbo. about a five minute fix. It is held in by one ten mm bolt (should have finished your video, oops)
youre probably playing with the throttle so it's probably just flutter, but it makes it sounds alot like turbo surge :D allso the editing in this vid is pretty slick :D gj
Maybe the wear in the tires is what is causing it, also the kuckle could be worn out maybe? Ball joints could be worn but maybeeee not good luck Trevor great vid as always
Rotate the front tires to rear to see if that helps or moves the vibrations. The SURGE cure could be as simple as unplugging the EGR. MAF sensor pigtail? Lastest Flash to disable EBP sensor?
Dude below me, I would definitely check the slip yoke and carrier bearing...my Ranger had the two piece driveshaft, until it came apart at 80 mph and I ran over it. It pole vaulted my truck into the air at 80...
I think you should check the tires and wheels to see if they are out of balance. The cupping could cause a vibration. How are the shocks? I’m sure that driveshaft might be bent or the slip joint is sloppy. Im sure you’ll figure it out. Wheel bearings and carrier bearing?
My 7.3 felt like it had a vibration around 40-60 just like what your saying. Ended up being a misfire. I replaced both driveshafts and all the steering. Just to find out it was the #8 injector the whole time.
Vibration is the reason I well never have Ford vehicle this is years ago It had a vibration at 45 mph that the dealer said they would fix well long story short 12 months later at 30.000 miles I traded it for my 1985 Toyota which I still have and sometimes drive I had to put a new engine in it at 300,000 miles. Both were new by the way,
Your drive shaft didn't look out of balance. Just dirty. Some play in the u joints is normal w 100,000+ mi. Being rotational mass if it were out of balance that bad it would destroy itself & wouldn't really change under load. I'd think anyway. Just get the tires checked. Last owner could have hit a rock & snapped a belt in the tire. & that will have you thinking all kinds of stuff is wrong with it.
You should try hot shot secret fuel treatment and see if that helps your injectors sound better at start up. Maybe it's me but they sound alittle clogged/stuck.
ive had trucks with lightly buckled or egg shaped rims and or heavy spots, scalloping in tyres do all sorts of weird vibrations, if your driveshaft doesnt sort it try wheels and tyres off your other truck
Hey Trevor, shed some light on the truck turbo (the size, etc) .. I work on VNT/VGT turbos alot, modifying little vw Tdi's with them, they end up making some decent power for a little 4cylinder sooter.
Im sure you already know this but ... tires can really do some weird things ... those front tires look strange with the cupping .... also check the slip yoke ... ford has a special grease for it called Motorcraft XG-8 .
We really need a diesel cold start on the benz please also those 4x4 solenoids on early 00 fords suck had one mess up once was in all time 4 wheel even though the knob and dash said 2
Trevor, love the truck videos maybe a possible RV build just not much of a car guy unless it's 300+ hp diesel TDI. When shopping for parts I hate Advance Auto (used to work at one of their warehouses, long story) but if their prices are cheaper and have a promo code I will call Autozone or O'reiley's and ask them if they would match Advance's price (even with promo code) and I have never been turned down. I'll tell them that I would really hate to shop at Advance and would rather buy from you so match it please. Always works. They also have a thing at Autozone where if you take a core battery in up to 5 they will give you $10 a piece store credit. I always have junk batteries so I usually get $50 off big items too.
With those u joints at 166k definitely need replaced. Looked like just normal wear n tear. Agree with the others about the center yolk. One gentleman suggest about the vanes and a solenoid. Then definitely drive a good distance and run the piss out of it.
Just because a u-joint is tight doesn't mean it's good sometimes they lock up and cause a very bad vibration I've had it happen more than once if you drop the driveshaft you can feel if it's locked up or not
found your channel when I was looking for SAAB videos :) since then I watched all your videos. But not that many SAAB videos anymore :( Greetings from Sweden :)
maybe shaft bearing as well, on turbo is normal for vnt to get stucked, (you can check 2.0 tdi vnt cleanup videos), but I would start on checking for turbo shaft for any play then just use some sea foam should get rid of the build up, the solenoid won't change the matter (unless is blown).
You should get in touch with Eric 'O' from South Main Auto Channel on TH-cam because he works on them a lot and i think i seen a video of when he took one of them transfer cases apart and i think they use a big chain inside them and they stretch, It might be that with the power the truck produces not it might of stretched the chain enough to where it's clattering off the inside of the casing.
I actually prefer used OEM alternators over brand new Chinese made or remans. Have had bad luck with those. OEM ones last so long. Obviously if you buy new by the OEM brand good to go, but those are so pricey.
I know ford had to replace my dads turbo on his 6.0. And I know something was up with the pipes to and from the turbo when it was having an issue like yours. But idk.
U joint they arent noticible by hand i had one go on mine at 90k couldnt tell from under truck but when taken out the inner portion of the needle bearing was wore to a point
The support bearing with that two piece driveshaft! Bought an 02 that would shake down the road, replaced the center support and it took all the shakiness out
I had the same vibration around 45mph. Swapped driveshafts with a junkyard one and it went away so I got my original driveshaft completely rebuilt and it's smooth as butter now.
I just installed the rebuild driveshaft yesterday and its butter now
I just love how one video you are painting a civic then the next you are fixing a WRX then the next you're working on the truck. Its always different. Best variety on the best channel 👌
well so far your not wasting money. those parts all need to be replaced.
i like the truck vids. cant wait for the next truck... im not a ford, subaru or honda guy. well i use to do honda's, but im still entertained.
This video reminds me of your older videos and I love it! Buy new project, figure out what’s wrong and fix it!
Drive it with the rear shaft out. No vibration, you found your culprit. I prefer the truck content but I tend to watch most of the videos.
Yep, I've done that before and sure enough it was the rear shaft.
My buddies truck did the exact same thing and it was the center bearing
Honestly Trevor I am generally learning something from all your videos.
All of us do
Alternators and starters rebuilt always comes out good
If the rear seat bounces the problem originates from the rear wheels/tires or drive shaft. Steering wheel shake front suspension / tires. When disassembling a U-joint without the benefit of a press use a large well used socket that is deeper than the U-joint bearing cap, a dull chisel and your 32 oz or heavier ballpien hammer to move 1 bearing cap. Reverse and move the off side bearing cap. Much easier than 2 caps at one time. Reassemble as you desire.
I always enjoy the videos. Doesn't really matter what car or truck it is. Your channel is the main reason why I started my own channel. Still new at it all. But I'm sure I will get there. Keep up the great videos. You are an inspiration.
The alternator on a 6.0 is a 5 minute tops job. Worlds easiest Alternator to swap out. Just takes a little muscle.
I like watching all your videos, but the truck videos are definitely my favorite
I had that issue you have on my 04. Thought it was coming out of the front turned out.it was the back u joints .once the u joints were replaced .the vibration went away .
*It could be the carrier bearing* Wow man id love to buy that 6.0 off you. Cant wait to see all the progress you make on it.
Ur carrier bearing
gavin gallegos I was thinking the same.
Check the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube coming off of the drivers side manifold, that can cause strange turbo issues when they get plugged up
Trevor your my most consistently watched TH-cam and always try to never miss a vid!
Thats a sweet looking truck but idk about those 6.0s. When they're good, they're great. But when they're not they're a nightmare.
Just like any other diesel
I think the 6.0 is more costly to maintain and fix in my opinion
next time you do u-joints, if you have a ball joint press (the c-clamp looking style ones) they make quick work of them. the one end has a hole for the adapters for a balljoint cup but its big enough to fit a cap thru, and the threaded part has a blunt end that will push the other cap out of the yoke, you can even re-install them with it
Meh, the hammer and vice is a lot easier for joints that are not totally rusted in beyond belief, he was using a bit of a small hammer too.
@@D3thM3tal two each his own. I can have a u joint out and back in in about 2 minutes. I use to do the hammer and vice method but when youre trying to hold onto a 40lbs driveshaft its awkward. Plus with my method i can do u joints on driveshafts without removing them from the vehicle.
Loving the cheap F-250 videos and the Civic videos!! Keep up the hard work!!
Probably not just one vibration. Those tires would definitely add to the driveline vibration. Carrier bearings probably right like most are thinking.
totally agree with your video frequency Trevor finding that balance is important! However I think the 6.0 is starting to give you an indication of becoming a money pit! Get shot of it and keep the lariat!
2 piece drive shaft. Carrier bearing usually I do a lot. Have it balanced and replace the carrier.
I found your channel when you bought the 2011, the Powerstroke videos are my favorite. Definitely check the carrier bearing, tires/wheels and the steering dampener.
Might want to check the ujoint for being centered. I had the same problem on the rear drive shaft, the new ujoint we effectively manufactured from moog. Also make sure the center ujoint isn't stiff and moves freely.
Check u joints. Carier bearinf driveshaft balance. Yolk angle if lifted. Driveshaft aligned. Rotors not worped.
Luckily you took care of it before it became the death wobble on the freeway Trevor! People have opinions of the 6.0, but it can easily be a good motor with some parts overnight from Japan on your tab at Harry’s.. it could decimate all!!!
I’ll have to remember to use the vise technique next time I resort to beating my driveshaft against the concrete with a 20mm socket. Thanks Trevor
Just a heads up I would swap that oil filter cap for the motorcraft filter and cap, those Napa/ wix/ autozone ones are not recommended. Also I recommend an alternator from leece Neville or law dog diesel, those stock alts are way underpowered for the 6.0 application, like 165amp. They work yes but for how long is the question. Throw an a leece Neville 230amp and never worry again and have all the amps you’ll ever need for the 230amp glow plug draw. Especially if you live in colder climates like Colorado. Also keeps the batteries alive for longer (like 7-10year lifespan) . Nice vids by the way! Just wanted to give ya some advice from what I’ve experienced with the 6.0’s
Make sure that rear driveshaft is phased properly. It might be just a little bit off. But youd get a shake with a vibration. Idk if you had a shake.
I really like the power stroke videos a lot
DG's pro tech on TH-cam does a lot of diesel stuff.
I bought one of those ball joint / U-joint tools from Harbor Freight and it sure makes that job a lot easier
Loving the powerstroke videos!
Have the drive shaft checked/balanced, also the carrier bearing looks worn out and will cause some major vibration issues. Slip yoke looks like it has some movement too. Better to get it all checked. Good call on the vgt solenoid. Hope that solves the surging issue
Thank GOD you put a Spicer bearing in there and not anything else as they are all straight up trash. Spicer Life Series FTW!
Everybody was Elliot from Oregon love videos long-time subscriber I don't call it very often but I had to on this video we had the same problem with a turbo doing this same exact issue last Wednesday at the shop that I run in Lake Oswego Oregon and it was the vgt actuator and the veins on the turbo set it up pulled the turbo off the truck change the vgt actuator clean the turbo on the sit out of it but it reinstalled it turbo work great
Id take it in and have the driveshaft rebuilt. Another thing to think about, I had a pickup that had a bad carrier bearing and it would vibrate like crazy at about 45 mph but it was WAY worse if I had weight in the bed. I like all your videos but I am I huge fan of the truck content. Been a subscriber since the first ls swap in the s14.
i wish i could have this truck even with the issues i’ve always wanted a 6.0 powerstroke 🤤
my mom has a 2007 powerstroke and i love it but i wish i could own one
The turbo issue is the vgt solenoid which is on the front of the turbo. about a five minute fix. It is held in by one ten mm bolt (should have finished your video, oops)
Check your steady bearing, very common on super duties . In the video it's hard to tell for sure but appears to be splitting a bit
youre probably playing with the throttle so it's probably just flutter, but it makes it sounds alot like turbo surge :D allso the editing in this vid is pretty slick :D gj
Maybe the wear in the tires is what is causing it, also the kuckle could be worn out maybe? Ball joints could be worn but maybeeee not good luck Trevor great vid as always
Rotate the front tires to rear to see if that helps or moves the vibrations. The SURGE cure could be as simple as unplugging the EGR.
MAF sensor pigtail?
Lastest Flash to disable EBP sensor?
Did the same thing on my Saab a few years back. Alternator from Advance was DOA. Never again.
Dude below me, I would definitely check the slip yoke and carrier bearing...my Ranger had the two piece driveshaft, until it came apart at 80 mph and I ran over it. It pole vaulted my truck into the air at 80...
Cars and trucks started watching your channel cause of the f250 build and stayed for the civic builds...and lets not forget the primer videos....lol
I'd check that carrier bearing for sure
I think you should check the tires and wheels to see if they are out of balance. The cupping could cause a vibration. How are the shocks? I’m sure that driveshaft might be bent or the slip joint is sloppy. Im sure you’ll figure it out. Wheel bearings and carrier bearing?
I think you should keep the 6.0 and walk us 6.0 guys threw a few things, like a 6.4 front clip conversation and a 6.4/6.7 interior swap
good video keep it up with the powerstroke ,lots of places to go with it.
Shakespeare: to be or not to be? That is the question.
Trevor: Needs driven!!!!
My 7.3 felt like it had a vibration around 40-60 just like what your saying. Ended up being a misfire. I replaced both driveshafts and all the steering. Just to find out it was the #8 injector the whole time.
Vibration is the reason I well never have Ford vehicle this is years ago It had a vibration at 45 mph that the dealer said they would fix well long story short 12 months later at 30.000 miles I traded it for my 1985 Toyota which I still have and sometimes drive I had to put a new engine in it at 300,000 miles. Both were new by the way,
Check the tires trevor. I did hubs, tie rod ends, & ball joints on my junk before finding out a tire had bad belt. Pissed!!!!
Your drive shaft didn't look out of balance. Just dirty. Some play in the u joints is normal w 100,000+ mi. Being rotational mass if it were out of balance that bad it would destroy itself & wouldn't really change under load. I'd think anyway. Just get the tires checked. Last owner could have hit a rock & snapped a belt in the tire. & that will have you thinking all kinds of stuff is wrong with it.
I like all the videos. The content is always quality.
Love the 6.0 video keep them coming man
You should try hot shot secret fuel treatment and see if that helps your injectors sound better at start up. Maybe it's me but they sound alittle clogged/stuck.
Definitely Powerstroke videos bud!
ive had trucks with lightly buckled or egg shaped rims and or heavy spots, scalloping in tyres do all sorts of weird vibrations, if your driveshaft doesnt sort it try wheels and tyres off your other truck
Hey bro .... We are missing 2JZ love that car
I like all the Videos variety is the spice of Life
Loving the powerstroke vids, as well as the painting vids. I think you should get a duramax tho 👀
Hey Trevor, shed some light on the truck turbo (the size, etc) .. I work on VNT/VGT turbos alot, modifying little vw Tdi's with them, they end up making some decent power for a little 4cylinder sooter.
Love the powerstroke videos
Im sure you already know this but ... tires can really do some weird things ... those front tires look strange with the cupping .... also check the slip yoke ... ford has a special grease for it called Motorcraft XG-8 .
With all the tools you have I woulda figured you had a shop press. Woulda been way easier than beating those U joints out.
We really need a diesel cold start on the benz please also those 4x4 solenoids on early 00 fords suck had one mess up once was in all time 4 wheel even though the knob and dash said 2
Love the powerstroke vids thanks
Trevor, love the truck videos maybe a possible RV build just not much of a car guy unless it's 300+ hp diesel TDI.
When shopping for parts I hate Advance Auto (used to work at one of their warehouses, long story) but if their prices are cheaper and have a promo code I will call Autozone or O'reiley's and ask them if they would match Advance's price (even with promo code) and I have never been turned down. I'll tell them that I would really hate to shop at Advance and would rather buy from you so match it please. Always works. They also have a thing at Autozone where if you take a core battery in up to 5 they will give you $10 a piece store credit. I always have junk batteries so I usually get $50 off big items too.
With those u joints at 166k definitely need replaced. Looked like just normal wear n tear.
Agree with the others about the center yolk.
One gentleman suggest about the vanes and a solenoid. Then definitely drive a good distance and run the piss out of it.
Just because a u-joint is tight doesn't mean it's good sometimes they lock up and cause a very bad vibration I've had it happen more than once if you drop the driveshaft you can feel if it's locked up or not
found your channel when I was looking for SAAB videos :) since then I watched all your videos. But not that many SAAB videos anymore :( Greetings from Sweden :)
Love all the content Trevor! Look forward to the variety of videos you bring us!
You know that mobil1 is from MY country of good people only POLAND!!!!!!!!! Czolem wielkiej Polsce!
Powerstroke all the way , great job enjoy your channel
Thanks!
Turbo lab of America sells rebuild kits for the turbski would make a cool vid
The content was better today. Bi daily uploads is the way to go.
Change the front tyres as well great videos love the content keep them coming
try driving with out rear drive shaft in 4wd mode and look for vibration
maybe shaft bearing as well, on turbo is normal for vnt to get stucked, (you can check 2.0 tdi vnt cleanup videos), but I would start on checking for turbo shaft for any play then just use some sea foam should get rid of the build up, the solenoid won't change the matter (unless is blown).
You should get in touch with Eric 'O' from South Main Auto Channel on TH-cam because he works on them a lot and i think i seen a video of when he took one of them transfer cases apart and i think they use a big chain inside them and they stretch, It might be that with the power the truck produces not it might of stretched the chain enough to where it's clattering off the inside of the casing.
Autoparts store alternators are junk and underrated for 6.0's. Need to upgrade 230amp alternator.
I actually prefer used OEM alternators over brand new Chinese made or remans. Have had bad luck with those. OEM ones last so long. Obviously if you buy new by the OEM brand good to go, but those are so pricey.
Just off of them front axle u joints replace all of them and the carry bearing.
gotta be something to do with rear drive shaft front is only on when in 4 wheel.
Bad shocks can cause tire cupping on a strait axle as well
That was your tie rod end that connects to the drag link.
What about the mustang build. You should make it a track car that would be cool! Good video as always though love your stuff man!
have a look at the front drive shaft at the double cardan joint at the t-case. i have seen many of those go bad and cause a shake at speed.
I was laughing so hard when you made that noise. Then when you did it again I almost died. Love from Australia. 😂
Screamed like a little girl 👧 x 2 😂
Funny this morning I did same exact repair should of watched your video first
Love the truck videos! Don’t really have a ford truck youtube guy
The surging is from carbon build up on the turbo. Common on the 6.0l
I know ford had to replace my dads turbo on his 6.0. And I know something was up with the pipes to and from the turbo when it was having an issue like yours. But idk.
0:22 "we make the streets go"
Love the psd content
It’s the slip yoke they get loose and mess with the carrier bearing just change the slip yoke and carrier bearing and be fine
U joint they arent noticible by hand i had one go on mine at 90k couldnt tell from under truck but when taken out the inner portion of the needle bearing was wore to a point