Murphy’s Law states that the most secure place for the light will be directly in the way. It also states, that the brighter the light, the more likely it will want to rotate and shine directly into your eyes.
I cannot tell you how many times my colleague has taken my spotlight style light and have it aimed at his eyes when he powered it on and blind himself.
This individual "GAH, my friggin' eyes!!!" Lmao, absolutely thr truth. Ya can see the work or feel the work never both. If the work ever can be seen and felt, guaranteed tools and/or hands will not fit. Of course, sadistically, the light will fit... I'm telling ya, machines are sentient and have insatiable appetite for practical jokes. Tis why the sound sometimes cannot be repeated in the presence of a technician. Tis Also why some diagnoses end in *well, i guess it needs this sensor* generally right before a wire finally slides out of a connector. What does metal sound like when laughing? I don't know, but sometimes the nonsense does seem overwhelming.
I retired 6 years ago as a heavy duty truck/trailer/equipment mechanic for a large west coast poultry producer after 35 years. I've been watching your videos for about 2 weeks now and feel I'm doing a retake on my past life. Except your on a smaller scale vehicle. I'm fascinated in your style of videos and super narration. Almost makes me wish I could still turn wrenches. Did 8 years as a jet engine mechanic on B'52s and KC-135s in the Air Force. Keep up the great work. The public needs good, hard working and honest mechanics.
gday Paul im a retired aussie road train driver of 50 yrs retied 2 yrs ago i was doing Adelaide to Darwin and Uluru for 5yrs and Darwin for the rest when it was a dirt road .i just love ray he reminds me of great mechanics of the 70s real mechanics and computer knowledge are a rarity thanks mate
While I used to do most of my own auto repairs, as I grew older and had a few more funds, I farmed some out to professional mechanics. While I lived in Santa Cruz, CA there was the most honest mechanic I ever met literally across the street from my house; it helped he was also a senior ombudsman, but he a great mechanic and of course treated seniors with special care, like keeping my mom's Dodge Neon running with minimum cost possible. When he semi-retired and let his daughter run the shop; while still honest, the service suffered, which shows how attention to details really makes a difference when you run a service oriented business.
Respect brother. Heavy duty is far from fun even if you're good at it. Heaviest I do is engine/trans swaps on occasion for friends but this is all 2500 trucks (non-diesel) and less.
Were you out at Travis AFB by any chance? I have some good friends there with many a story to tell. Thanks for your service in keeping them big birds in the sky.
I like the warp speed of the repeat process. It's slow enough that we can see there was nothing different that happened and how learning is adapted from run 1 to speed up run two. If then something happened on a repeat process that made it interesting then reverting to normal speed to take us along for that part of the story would be good. The split screen with warp speed on one side while rounding out the outro of run 1 also a plus. Great job.
My favorite part about watching you is your patience and my second favorite part is your diagnostic skills. But I think it's unusual for a professional mechanic to be able to film and explain and still go fast enough with repairs. Maybe if they own their own shop but to do it at a shop and still get it done is unusual. They are really three different skills: mechanics, filming and communication/teaching.
Even worse . After binge watching this channel when my mobile goes i hear do_dee_doo_doo In my head !! :-) Somebodies gotta make a ring tone outta that!!!
Nice job, Ray! Liked your diagnosis, the replacement of the first axle, and the warp speed video of the second axle. Good work, good narration, and good editing.
Back in the mid '80s, I worked as a porter in a BMW & VW dealership right out of high school. The techs were some of the best people I've ever met. You remind me so much of a couple of those guys. We had a blast working together and they taught me not just about wrenching on cars, but about integrity. Love the channel!
Diesel mechanic here. Us guys at work mock the telephone rings as well. We also take turns “randomly “ singing the course line of what ever is on the radio. Enjoying your videos! I like the full long videos.
I remember doing this on my 1987 geo metro. It’s amazing how little some technology has changed. The procedure was near analog of yours but the commentary was flavored by many colorful words that I care not to repeat ! I did mine in winter, laying on the ground with the car up on jacks. Your a great mechanic but you got it easy !
Me too. 1992 vw golf. 1.8 litre. Great little car. Not difficult technically, but no fun on your back witth the car on jacks. I was lucky as I had a small garage.
Yes back in the old days I remember doing many vehicle repairs in the snow over the weekend so I could get back to work on Monday hey those were the good old days have a good one thank you bye
I enjoy watching these videos and seeing how the pieces fit and work together from an engineering standpoint when repairing a vehicle. And yes, anything repetitious works well in superfast mode. The one thing I wish was incuded in these videos is the overall time of the repairs and parts and labor costs.
The warp speed effect is working. As you said, there is no need to repeat. I do most of the work on my vehicles, which brought back the memory of when I replaced these on my 79' Scirocco in our 1984 gravel driveway. Just started watching our channel a few weeks ago. I find your narration oddly captivating with your humorous interjections that bring a smile.
speeding up the video during routine monotomy is great, as long as you slow it down if you run into any difficulties with anything. that's why I watch, to get tips when you run into issues that I run into!
I'm ASE certified, I no longer turn wrenches for a living, but still do all of my own repairs for the wife, kids, family, etc. I enjoy watching you do what I do and seeing confirmation that I'm still a good tech. I always put a light coating of Nickle based anti seize on the splines of the axle going into the hub bearing. Same for the tie rod end. Makes it seat well and prevents seizing and wear. I agree to replace axles at the same time on high mileage vehicles. The odds are high enough that the other one will be right behind the other one. Especially if there is boot damage.
Morning Ray, i have been watching your videos and i really appreciate a honest guy making a living and just enjoying your job. Thank you for the video and the banter.
I’m over here wondering how in the fool this would ever be practical. Imagine the thought process used by the owner when trying to decide on drilled rotors. 😂 “I wanna race car, but I have a family van. How can I find a compromise???!”
He's psychologically conditioning them. He should try playing that tune to see whether his co-workers will start going "Doo be doo doo" without realizing it.
You're right about memories. I knew the father of the researcher that proved this to be so. A practical application, and proof, of this was when they injected a subject/patient with a chemical that interfered with the re-storing of the memory after it was recalled and the memory was forgotten. This is especially good when the memory is a bad one that haunts the person. I love good science!
Great tip that works on alot of axles! If you get the top end of the stearing knuckle loose and don't have enough room to remove the axle. Try removing the axle from the transmission/diff and move it twards a empty area this will give you more clearance due too the spline usually being shorter on the other side. I know for a fact it works on trailblazers.
As a retired mostly diesel mechanic of 37 years, this brings back memories, I loved the gravity of dropping bolts and would try to listen where I hopefully could find them! I had the worst luck with most of them dropping in a pan full of oil or coolant! LOL I also flattened quite a few flashlights and drop lights, They were not designed to be wheel chocks!
The very moment you pulled out of the parking spot I heard the click of a bad CD joint. Yes turning left did make it sound like the left CV joint but you are correct insane it could possibly be the right and both should be looked at and replaced at the same time. Very good diagnosis just by ear. Well done.
Try hitting the small tab hanging off the edge of the tie rod mounting hole. There's one on lower ball joint as well. It's the reason they are there, so you don't have to strike the actual steering/suspension parts to release them from locations. Great work
Yeah, this guy is clearly very sloppy. Although he seems like a nice guy I would not want him working on my vehicle. He practically had the control/arm or knuckle hanging off the brake line while trying to yank out the axle.
Or just use an on-the-vehicle press -- a kit with a bunch of 'em for almost any application is only a few hundred bucks. I quit using hammers and "pickle forks" a long time ago. I am near Palm Springs, and, one fine day in a summer long past, I nearly killed myself wailing (whaling?) away on a pickle fork with a four-pound hammer for an hour in 120⁰ (F) weather, trying to separate a ball joint. I ultimately prevailed, but I bought the set the next day. Never again.
@@edwatts9890 . Are you talking about the OTC grappler? Those are a beast but very expensive. I use a cheap suspension tool kit I got from Ares on Amazon. Its worked great for me although the axle itself was a massive pain to remove.
@@MrSupernova111: OTC Grappler is one. Most of the "tool truck" brands have their own versions. Yeah, they're somewhat expensive, but, when you do "the same job" over and over, day after day, the amortization per repair is negligible, not to mention the savings in time and aggravation. And you don't destroy the rubber boots!
@@MrSupernova111: I also have a press/puller which mounts to two (or three, depending upon bolt pattern) wheel studs with a one-inch center bolt which bears upon the end of the axle. They all yield.
I usually bust the lower ball joint to get the half shafts out. Then you get enough room to pull it out without taking the whole spindle apart.(you don't have to realign it either.)
Honda tech note: So much easier to remove LCA from knuckle when doing CV Axle. Easiest brand of car to replace, also a good note customer replaced in pairs as such components usually go out close to evenly. Great job Ray. I've been enjoying your videos for a few weeks now. Make Mechanic's Great Again! Too many shady mechanic's these days!
No I'd rather watch it step by step, its helped me out a lot on things I've never fixed myself , and its not robbing yals business any, I'm way up here in the Virginia Appalachian mountains !
I've not worked on cars in many year But i cant remember ever switching out the hole drive shaft for a damaged CV joint. was 1 of the dirtiest jobs on a car. Loving the channel. Keep up the good work
As a diy person that can at times get in over my head this video was excellent! I did not mind the high speed as long as both both sides are identical. I enjoyed hearing the banter I worked in the Chevy garage in my teens and 20s we were a good team. I had not accessed those memories in a long time, thanks!
It’s good to see a mechanic that gets in and does the job. Our pickup has been in a shop for over seven weeks. Not waiting on parts, waiting on the shop to get to work on it. This is really crap when you are traveling, making us over 2 months late for the beginning of our winter vacation. Plus paying double rent, our rent is already paid at our destination. Keep up the good work!
Whats the issue with the pickup? some background on the problem, make n model etc? I don't work on American vehicles here (New Zealand) but 7 weeks is ridiculous, takes 2 day turn around tops on an engine replacement for most vehicles here, I can't imagine why it takes 7 weeks for anything. I get that its a busy time of year for mechanics (run off our feet here), but to hang on to a customers vehicle for that long with no progress is disgusting.
@@waikatowizard1267 The high pressure fuel pump came apart sending metal filings all thru the fuel system. About a 30 hour repair but the shop has to get a mechanic to stay with it. They were slow to get started and now the owner says it’s a slow job.
I have a van from arizona, that will draw 2 or 3 techs in northern MN with how unrusty it is for being an 07, its never winter driven and used mainly for storm chasing in the summer months. it still blows my mind how clean it is.
I dont own a Honda Odyssey, will probably never own one. But I love good guides on how to fix things. I am not a mechanic, I do try to fix my old shitbox subaru whenever I can though. Videos like this helped me along. Keep this up. Also, once I forgot to put the cotter pin in after replacing a ball joint.... don't make that mistake it was very difficult to get my cv axel back in place after that.
@@inoahmann7542 I live in Denmark, lots of salt on the roads during the winter - a car without treatment won't last more than 5 - 8 years! Cars are just temporary transport solutions here. 😢
@@leifvejby8023 yikes, the salt doesn't even work all that well. For the amount of environmental and mechanical damage it causes, I'm surprised it hasn't been banned.
I had the EXACT SAME symptoms on my 2016 Odyssey. It was under warranty, so this was one of the few times I let someone (dealer) work on my car. I swore up and and down it was the CV axle. They agreed and replaced the left one. They gave it back to me, said it was fixed. The clickety clack came back after a day or so. So I took it back. After replacing the other CV, the wheel hub, and something else (tie rod maybe? They were grasping at straws), the clicks still would not go away! They ended up replacing the subframe!!! That finally fixed it permanently. So... looking back, I still don't know what to believe, to be honest. Was it really the subframe? How could the subframe cause this? Or could it be that they fouled up the CV replacement somehow (bad replacement part? Bad install?) and all the part-swapping eventually led them to doing it right? I'll never know. That's why I do my own work. I don't trust the workmanship of mechanics (no offense, Ray. And no offense to the other good mechanics reading this. It's unfortunate that good mechanics are hard to find). If it truly was the subframe, then I'm glad I let it be the dealer's problem. At any rate, I got a lot of free new parts out of the ordeal. Moral: I'm 99.9% sure you fixed that Odyssey, Ray. BUT... IF it comes back; remember my story, sir. As hard as it is for me to believe it was the subframe, the possibility haunts my thoughts to this day.
Just wanted to chime in. The subffames in these Hondas are not one piece manufacturing. They are multi layered steel welded together and then fitted with bushings at mounting points to increase strength and reduce weight for more mpgs. From time to time you get a subframe that even though it was welded properly , remember it is multilayered steel so it will have some slight give and if the pieces are fitter together ever so slightly off of alignment during assembly and welding then they can touch during weight transfer of the vehicle (braking acceleration turning etc) in the end this touching can create a pinging, creaking, or clicking noise.
I would also suspect that your Dealer did not put new CV shafts in there. What they will do is obtain what is cutely known as a "Reman" or so-called "re-manufactured" shaft. But, what was actually re-manufactured? If all the vendor did was replace a torn boot and re-pack with some grease, then sell it as new, you got someone else's worn shaft, but paid for a new one. I ran into this with a Subaru Sedan, two different Subaru dealers replaced front CV shafts (one did the left, and another shop did the right a year later). Those shafts lasted 18 months and failed. I then bought two NEEW shafts from a reliable aftermarket supplier (RockAuto) and had a client of mine who owns an independent shop replace them. Problem permanents solved. What burns me is the shameless way those Dealers used old parts and charged me for new. And on the invoice was the cozy printing "reman" which would clear them from claims of fraudulent concealment. So a Dealer cannot go into his parts bin and pull a new shaft out, which is what you would expect? Instead they are shopping around to find some used part to fob off on you? Outrageous! From here on in I buy mhy own new parts and put them in myself. No more of this Dealer theft.
Living on the east coast of Canada make me so jealous you can take stuff apart with out crazy amounts of rust. Unbolt and rebolt makes being a mechanic look east. No wire brushes, torches or penetrating oil. Lol.
When you do the "super light speed motion" we all miss out on the entertaining workshop banter. In my opinion, I'd rather watch the full thing, regardless of how long it takes or parts you have to make. Keep up the good work Ray, love your content. 👍👏
Full unedited versions may be their own channel. I would wonder how they do against each other. In this day of reels, shirts and TikTok, it's quite a feat to be able to do a one hour video that so many will watch from start to finish.
Nice job troubleshooting, and then removing/replacing the axles. The higher-speed run through of a previously demonstrated removal/replacement is fine, I think. [those cv axles look pricey, but it was smart of the customer to replace both left & right at the same time).
Just did both CV axles on my '10 Outback - pretty simple but found that the previous owner (I'd just bought it used the week before) had overfilled the transmission - I ended up with more than a liter of transmission lube pouring out of the axle penetration. LOL! I also wonder if you'd marked the strut for re-installing the knuckle to maintain the proper camber...I used my wife's nail polish to mark the cam bolt position before disassembly and matched up during reassembly. Great video and, yeah, warp speed for time is great.
I like the new side by side lightning fast motion format. I think it's a great decision. Maybe a picture in picture could work too, if you get complaints about the aspect ratio
I wish I would have had guys like that in the last shop I worked and it would have made life a lot easier it's a pleasure to have a guy like that around the work with have a good day
Axle boot cracked or not the CV joints are week on these, particularly if your wife likes to accelerate hard from a stop with the wheel cranked. My 2012 started making noises under warranty and because the boots were intact the dealership shrugged it off. My clicking noise occurred when initiating a right turn from a stop, replaced the left/driver's side CV axle and it was gone. Fast forward 2 years and now I have the same sound but when initiating a left turn so I assume it's now the other side, right/passenger. I popped the lower ball joint & tie rod off to do this and in doing so found the ball joint needed replacing. The driver's side is super simple, passenger side complicated a bit by that carrier bearing. Went with a Cardone part, it was 1/4 the cost of OEM in Canada. Thanks for a great guide, will be tackling the passenger side soon!
I haven't found one inspection light that stays put. The slightest knock and they throw themselves on the floor. Sometimes you just look at them wrong and off they jump.
Light speed rehash on the "easy" axle is just fine. The vid reminded me of the last time I remembered changing axles on my old late 80s accord. Drove it "clunkity clunk"-ing until the shaft spline pulled out of the drivers side outer cv on a right turn (mid intersection of course) around the corner from home. Actually reseated the shaft in about 3 seconds, even drove it to the parts store, lol. Took about 4 beers to complete both sides on jackstands with no power tools
Hi Ray ! Really liking your channel. You are the best because u don’t edit out the real life things that happen when working on a car . FYI i drop things too. It happens . I try not to but it happens . I work all day as a mechanic and then watch your channel . Is that crazy or what ? Keep doing what you are doing !!! I just got the Milwaukee angle impact after u got. I think it will be helpful .
I've watched your videos and other mechanics, I am not a mechanic but I enjoy to watch mechanic videos, and I love how you make repairs in a uniformed and careful fashion as if you are a scientist working with an ecosystem. Out of the numerous other mechanic videos, you seem to take your time and replace commonly worn down parts such as the crush components in a oil pan nut with charity in the upmost professional manner; while thinking about cost and valued customer input. Keep the videos coming brother as you are not only sharing your work, but expressing art, love for the job, and compassion for the cars owners.
Conscientious "mechanids" (purposeful spelling, indicating a specific species, who are honest) aren't paid nearly enough for the diagnostics and repairs they perform.
@@Patriottoo2 definatley not paid enough for the time experiance and the tools put into the field, than being good at it is even worse. I was collecting tools and working out of my garage thinking about it, after a few injuries went into electronic repair :( still work on my own vechiles tho. Funnier catching mechanics trying to scam you when you know what your talking about. Thats why i enjoy rays videos funny and honest
Ray, I knew you would have the integrity to replace that Cotter pin you read my mind and did the right thing! I just wish a good me mechanic, someone like you worked in my town Portland Ore!
Just found this Channel and I love it, you’re awesome. your videos are fun, educational and are a pleasure to watch. Thank you so much for doing such a great job! And have a Happy Thanksgiving!
For future reference, I recommend popping the lower ball joint loose rather than the strut bolts. It prevents having to take wires and such loose and you have plenty of wiggle room after popping the tie-rod end and the end-link at the strut loose. Keep it up! :)
Just disconnecting the lower control arm is usually enough on Hondas to pull the shaft out. I was a mechanic several years ago and loved these half shafts on Hondas. They paid pretty good, easy to diagnose and took 15 minutes with only needing to take of 4 fasteners off.
Really enjoying your videos as a new subscriber, I'm not mechanically minded at all I just enjoy watching your skills and listening to your humour! Happy Thanksgiving from the UK
I like the channel too but there is a lot of sloppiness here. Learn what you can from him and if you do your own car maintenance don't take shortcuts like he does.
15:40 from Happy Gilmore Virginia: What's this about you breaking a rake and throwing it in the woods? Happy Gilmore: I didn't *break* it, I was merely testing its durability, and I *placed* it in the woods cause it's made of wood and I thought he should be with his family.
Might be worth pinning a warning to non mechanics that a lot of vehicles use the strut to spindle joint as the camber adjustment by various means and that means very careful placement of the two bolt heads on reassembly or a trip to the alignment rack (that most don't have under their shady tree)
OK I saw no marking of the strut to the bearing housing so what are the chance this vehicle now has the proper camber adjustment? There was no mention that the car was going in for a camber check and adjust on an alignment rack.
I always have found that if you also remove the brake line from the support on the strut (alternately remove the caliper assy) it gives sufficient room to remove the axle with the strut disconnected the way you have done this. Easier to do that removing the steering joint as they can be real bears sometimes. Secondly, I ALWAYS put hi-temp (Copper based) anti-sieze on the outer axle splines in the hub as I have suffered some really siezed splines on high mileage cars. And do you not do an alignment check on the front again??? Removing the strut bolts alters the caster on these McPherson strut suspensions. Look at the amount of play you get at 16.25. It is not much, but will wear the tires unevenly all the same!
Yea I like to just remove the caliper, it is just as quick and you put no risk damaging the brake line. I was confused that he didn't first break the axle nut loose to make sure that you can move on the axle splines and anti seize at the end to keep it from happening, but I guess that's what he gets being far more south where they don't like to seize up as much. The alignment is not necessary. Those bolts Effect camber for the most part and come factory with no preset for adjustment really, the tire wear just is what it is ( Yes even from factory they can come being out of spec on a brand new car) If you really care about it some aftermarket struts give slots for adjustments if you get some adjustable bolts.
No harm, no foul. My kinda guy, been saying that for years! I'm glad I got to see how to remove a stubborn abs, might have a project in the making and when it comes to things with wires I have a fear of using force! Keep doing what your doing!
When doing the right side, turn the steering wheel all of the way to the left, and vice-versa. This allows the knuckles to swing out enough to remove the half-shafts without removing the tie rod ends.
My Odyssey was making CV joint clicking noises like this at 28k miles, and I documented it with the dealer several times. They said it was the suspension spring, which I doubted since CV joint noise is distinct. Honda paid for the replacement out of warranty only because the problem was on record early. The replacement axles are making noise 50k miles later. The mechanic said the CV joint problem is pretty common.
You forgot to mention it needs an allignment after loosening those bolts from a mcpherson suspension, so probably the wear on the tires will be off untill realignment is done. You can tell by hou much play there is on the hub when the bolts are in but not tightned. That is why I always loosen the lower ball joint because alignment costs money.
@@Bratfalken i don't think that is the case here. The bolts are the same, but there is just more play at the whole assembly to have ajustable alignment. Think with wheel mounted and on floor the wheel can be adjusted more than 2 cm, and from alignment view that is a lot.
Light speed is good with me, as long as you can slow it back to point out "functional asymmetry" 😆 is that a thing? (Like oh btw on the left side you have to move this extra bit). Thanks for the awesome content sir
I have changed more than one Honda right front axel and the method I use is just to undo the lower ball joint and the whole rotor will swing out with enough room to pull the axel out. Now this is just my way and as usually there are more that’s one way to crack an egg. Just a thought. I have learned a great deal watching your videos,s thks..
Liking the split screen, the new into & the soul-damaging quote also... However, at 23:06 *please* Ray, do not hit the customers wheels with the torque wrench. For one it'll throw off the calibration and for two it can damage the finish of the wheels ( besides, you've been told about hitting the cars before when the lady caught you in the act lol). Have a great day yourself sir, and congrats on getting Peter on the "doo doodoo doodoo" train.
A customer brought his Trailblazer in today for tires (that he refused to have balanced, btw). Both front tires were about 50% tread on the outside, but were worn almost completely through the steel belts on the inside. We can only do tires and oil changes, and aren't allowed to do any actual diagnosis of vehicles, but I wiggled both front wheels anyway, for my own curiosity. The passenger front wheel bearing had very slight play in it, but the driver side had a significant amount of play. After we were done, the customer asked "why did my tires wear like that?" I wanted to say "Gee, IDK, maybe the front wheel bearings that have probably been howling away for the past YEAR?", but, going back to the "no diagnosing" thing, all I was allowed to say was "Probably something worn in your front suspension, like a ball joint or wheel bearing or something. I'd take it to an alignment shop, explain how the old tires were worn, and have them check it out."
I was waiting for "As a self confessed player of the pink oboe he always went to band camp!" 😆 Oh! And here they're called split pins. Cotter pins are the old school way to hold pedal cranks onto the bottom axle of bicycles. If you get time it would be interesting to see the damage/wear of the old components compared to the the new ones Ray. I was wondering about what was going on under that boot. Do you think it was just wear brought about by dirt & grit getting in there once the boot had split? And didn't you need to grease the new ones? "Doooodle-ooo-dulloooo!"
@John Verne Thank you. All new information for me. 😃 The closest I came to repairing one was having to fit a new boot on my Citroen BX 19 GTi when it failed it's M.O.T. test for it. Luckily you can get new boots that you just wrap around. I think they're worried the grease will fly out and get on your pads & disks. They were happy with it when re tested.
Ira J. Young invented the cotter pin in 1912 in St. Louis, Missouri. He "applied for a patent on a machine for forming split pins," later referred to as cotter pins.
I always disconnected the lower ball joint, gives you enough room & you don’t run the risk of changing the camber ! (Full left wheel for RHSide if the steering rod is to the rear)etc. Regards, Sandy
Warp speed is fine with me, especially on things that you have done countless times before like removing drain plug or replacing filter. I would concentrate on the unique repairs that we don't see very often. Nice job on the intro segment. I really enjoy your videos and I watch every one. Thanks.
I was calling out to you about that ABS Sensor Wire stretching, but I guess you couldn't hear me from way up here in Canada, so I am putting it here in the doobly-do for next time! Excellent vids, good warp-speed repairs, keep up the good work!
I like the warp. But an even quicker like 20 little 1 second jump cuts is really satisfying too. Like "now im going to do tge ither one in warp speed" click, clunk, twist, click" as you show all of the dignificant moments like breaking loos a nut or sliding in/out an axle (or any significant moment) is a great catchy way to do it, a bit more editing work tho
Warp speed is a good move. On popping the lower strut mount off. We would always check the alignment afterwards as there is a tiny bit of movement in that lower strut mount which will alter the alignment a wee bit. YMMV, but it’s an easy/quick thing to check. Also if the car is old enough to have trashed an axle boot, it likely is overdue for an alignment anyway.
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Murphy’s Law states that the most secure place for the light will be directly in the way. It also states, that the brighter the light, the more likely it will want to rotate and shine directly into your eyes.
That's why I bought a headlamp; works great!
Wise words!
I cannot tell you how many times my colleague has taken my spotlight style light and have it aimed at his eyes when he powered it on and blind himself.
I use led job site lights for working on cars from raised up, good set would light up everything you need it too.
This individual "GAH, my friggin' eyes!!!"
Lmao, absolutely thr truth. Ya can see the work or feel the work never both.
If the work ever can be seen and felt, guaranteed tools and/or hands will not fit. Of course, sadistically, the light will fit...
I'm telling ya, machines are sentient and have insatiable appetite for practical jokes. Tis why the sound sometimes cannot be repeated in the presence of a technician. Tis Also why some diagnoses end in *well, i guess it needs this sensor* generally right before a wire finally slides out of a connector.
What does metal sound like when laughing? I don't know, but sometimes the nonsense does seem overwhelming.
I retired 6 years ago as a heavy duty truck/trailer/equipment mechanic for a large west coast poultry producer after 35 years. I've been watching your videos for about 2 weeks now and feel I'm doing a retake on my past life. Except your on a smaller scale vehicle. I'm fascinated in your style of videos and super narration. Almost makes me wish I could still turn wrenches. Did 8 years as a jet engine mechanic on B'52s and KC-135s in the Air Force. Keep up the great work. The public needs good, hard working and honest mechanics.
gday Paul im a retired aussie road train driver of 50 yrs retied 2 yrs ago i was doing Adelaide to Darwin and Uluru for 5yrs and Darwin for the rest when it was a dirt road .i just love ray he reminds me of great mechanics of the 70s real mechanics and computer knowledge are a rarity thanks mate
Well put Paul - from a UK non mechanic.
While I used to do most of my own auto repairs, as I grew older and had a few more funds, I farmed some out to professional mechanics. While I lived in Santa Cruz, CA there was the most honest mechanic I ever met literally across the street from my house; it helped he was also a senior ombudsman, but he a great mechanic and of course treated seniors with special care, like keeping my mom's Dodge Neon running with minimum cost possible. When he semi-retired and let his daughter run the shop; while still honest, the service suffered, which shows how attention to details really makes a difference when you run a service oriented business.
Respect brother. Heavy duty is far from fun even if you're good at it. Heaviest I do is engine/trans swaps on occasion for friends but this is all 2500 trucks (non-diesel) and less.
Were you out at Travis AFB by any chance? I have some good friends there with many a story to tell.
Thanks for your service in keeping them big birds in the sky.
I like the warp speed of the repeat process. It's slow enough that we can see there was nothing different that happened and how learning is adapted from run 1 to speed up run two. If then something happened on a repeat process that made it interesting then reverting to normal speed to take us along for that part of the story would be good. The split screen with warp speed on one side while rounding out the outro of run 1 also a plus. Great job.
Well said Hubster, agree wholeheartedly
@@snowman9123 AGREED, VERY WELL SAID.
This comment is way over thought 🤣 😂 👍
agreed to it all
Yes to the Warp Speed. Zactly what I was thinking.
You are one of the few mechanics I can find that shows most if not all of how to do something. I've learned a considerable amount from your videos.
I think the warp speed is pretty cool. Especially how you blended the two together at the end. Excellent editing. Keep doing what you do!
My favorite part about watching you is your patience and my second favorite part is your diagnostic skills. But I think it's unusual for a professional mechanic to be able to film and explain and still go fast enough with repairs. Maybe if they own their own shop but to do it at a shop and still get it done is unusual. They are really three different skills: mechanics, filming and communication/teaching.
Every time your phone rings, and you do NOT do the "Do-dee-doo-de-doo", the sound still runs through my head!
The same with gravity and cliiick 😂
He trained us well. Must be a Jedi master! :D
was even more funny to ear is co worker doing it too ahaha
Even worse . After binge watching this channel when my mobile goes i hear do_dee_doo_doo In my head !! :-) Somebodies gotta make a ring tone outta that!!!
that's his ring tone on his personal phone or it should be.
The warp speed is great. Good move! On the other hand I was curious to see the inside of the noisy axle under the boot … for science
Me too.
Nice job, Ray! Liked your diagnosis, the replacement of the first axle, and the warp speed video of the second axle. Good work, good narration, and good editing.
Back in the mid '80s, I worked as a porter in a BMW & VW dealership right out of high school. The techs were some of the best people I've ever met. You remind me so much of a couple of those guys. We had a blast working together and they taught me not just about wrenching on cars, but about integrity. Love the channel!
I am sure you meant BMW...
@@frandanco6289 I sure did! Thanks for the catch - it's fixed now.
Definitely keep the warp speed, it’s cool watching a repeat action in fast time.
Yes. I agree.
.... ah! till your boss see's it. ha! more money$$$
Scotty says oh no Captain the dilithium crystals have shattered have a good day
Great job on warp speed on drivers side. Passenger side was slightly more complicated so, good choice.
Best conversation with yourself that I have ever heard. Better than the noises, so smart and makes the experience so much fun as well as instructive.
Diesel mechanic here. Us guys at work mock the telephone rings as well. We also take turns “randomly “ singing the course line of what ever is on the radio. Enjoying your videos! I like the full long videos.
I remember doing this on my 1987 geo metro. It’s amazing how little some technology has changed. The procedure was near analog of yours but the commentary was flavored by many colorful words that I care not to repeat ! I did mine in winter, laying on the ground with the car up on jacks. Your a great mechanic but you got it easy !
Me too. 1992 vw golf. 1.8 litre. Great little car. Not difficult technically, but no fun on your back witth the car on jacks. I was lucky as I had a small garage.
Yes back in the old days I remember doing many vehicle repairs in the snow over the weekend so I could get back to work on Monday hey those were the good old days have a good one thank you bye
I personally love the long drawn out portions because I am still in the process of learning more about cars :)
I enjoy watching these videos and seeing how the pieces fit and work together from an engineering standpoint when repairing a vehicle. And yes, anything repetitious works well in superfast mode. The one thing I wish was incuded in these videos is the overall time of the repairs and parts and labor costs.
The warp speed effect is working. As you said, there is no need to repeat.
I do most of the work on my vehicles, which brought back the memory of when I replaced these on my 79' Scirocco in our 1984 gravel driveway.
Just started watching our channel a few weeks ago. I find your narration oddly captivating with your humorous interjections that bring a smile.
speeding up the video during routine monotomy is great, as long as you slow it down if you run into any difficulties with anything. that's why I watch, to get tips when you run into issues that I run into!
I've never done an axle before but that looked fairly easy and it also helps when you have the right tools
Hope you are ready for thanksgiving! Enjoy the time with family and friends everyone!
I'm ASE certified, I no longer turn wrenches for a living, but still do all of my own repairs for the wife, kids, family, etc. I enjoy watching you do what I do and seeing confirmation that I'm still a good tech.
I always put a light coating of Nickle based anti seize on the splines of the axle going into the hub bearing. Same for the tie rod end. Makes it seat well and prevents seizing and wear.
I agree to replace axles at the same time on high mileage vehicles. The odds are high enough that the other one will be right behind the other one. Especially if there is boot damage.
Morning Ray, i have been watching your videos and i really appreciate a honest guy making a living and just enjoying your job. Thank you for the video and the banter.
Never thought I would see drilled and slotted rotors on an Odyssey.
Rays vocabulary is awsome! 😆😁👍
I’m over here wondering how in the fool this would ever be practical. Imagine the thought process used by the owner when trying to decide on drilled rotors. 😂
“I wanna race car, but I have a family van. How can I find a compromise???!”
You know when you've gone too far when the person who should be answering the phone is "doo be doo doo"-ing as well.
He's psychologically conditioning them. He should try playing that tune to see whether his co-workers will start going "Doo be doo doo" without realizing it.
Or when they're doing doobies in the parking lot.
Six since you have me doing that ! Do be do
I do the same with my coworkers. Everyone doin Burnouts and Tandem drifts without minding it.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind dooooobie doobie dooo
You're right about memories. I knew the father of the researcher that proved this to be so. A practical application, and proof, of this was when they injected a subject/patient with a chemical that interfered with the re-storing of the memory after it was recalled and the memory was forgotten. This is especially good when the memory is a bad one that haunts the person. I love good science!
Sedation has an amnesiac effect to help reduce patient stress.
Interesting!
If it weren't for sticky notes so it have no memory at all have a good day
Morning Ray I hope you are doing well. I like to wish you and yours a happy Thanksgiving take care.
Great tip that works on alot of axles!
If you get the top end of the stearing knuckle loose and don't have enough room to remove the axle. Try removing the axle from the transmission/diff and move it twards a empty area this will give you more clearance due too the spline usually being shorter on the other side.
I know for a fact it works on trailblazers.
As a retired mostly diesel mechanic of 37 years, this brings back memories, I loved the gravity of dropping bolts and would try to listen where I hopefully could find them! I had the worst luck with most of them dropping in a pan full of oil or coolant! LOL
I also flattened quite a few flashlights and drop lights, They were not designed to be wheel chocks!
Springs sea clips and set screws is the worst they will run and hide and then the trolls will take them away have a good day
The very moment you pulled out of the parking spot I heard the click of a bad CD joint. Yes turning left did make it sound like the left CV joint but you are correct insane it could possibly be the right and both should be looked at and replaced at the same time. Very good diagnosis just by ear. Well done.
Try hitting the small tab hanging off the edge of the tie rod mounting hole. There's one on lower ball joint as well. It's the reason they are there, so you don't have to strike the actual steering/suspension parts to release them from locations. Great work
Yeah, this guy is clearly very sloppy. Although he seems like a nice guy I would not want him working on my vehicle. He practically had the control/arm or knuckle hanging off the brake line while trying to yank out the axle.
Or just use an on-the-vehicle press -- a kit with a bunch of 'em for almost any application is only a few hundred bucks. I quit using hammers and "pickle forks" a long time ago. I am near Palm Springs, and, one fine day in a summer long past, I nearly killed myself wailing (whaling?) away on a pickle fork with a four-pound hammer for an hour in 120⁰ (F) weather, trying to separate a ball joint. I ultimately prevailed, but I bought the set the next day.
Never again.
@@edwatts9890 . Are you talking about the OTC grappler? Those are a beast but very expensive. I use a cheap suspension tool kit I got from Ares on Amazon. Its worked great for me although the axle itself was a massive pain to remove.
@@MrSupernova111: OTC Grappler is one. Most of the "tool truck" brands have their own versions. Yeah, they're somewhat expensive, but, when you do "the same job" over and over, day after day, the amortization per repair is negligible, not to mention the savings in time and aggravation. And you don't destroy the rubber boots!
@@MrSupernova111: I also have a press/puller which mounts to two (or three, depending upon bolt pattern) wheel studs with a one-inch center bolt which bears upon the end of the axle.
They all yield.
I usually bust the lower ball joint to get the half shafts out. Then you get enough room to pull it out without taking the whole spindle apart.(you don't have to realign it either.)
Honda tech note: So much easier to remove LCA from knuckle when doing CV Axle. Easiest brand of car to replace, also a good note customer replaced in pairs as such components usually go out close to evenly. Great job Ray. I've been enjoying your videos for a few weeks now. Make Mechanic's Great Again! Too many shady mechanic's these days!
I usually just go for the lower ball joint too.
Or as ray likes to put it “evil technicians”
You don't throw the alignment off that way either.
Separating the lower ball joint for re&re on an axle is not only the standard for Honda, but on most make/models.
High speed or normal, I wouldn't leave. Love watching your work. Thank you for sharing.
The right mix of laughs, entertainment and actual learning! Thanks so much for the content! Greetings from Switzerland
No I'd rather watch it step by step, its helped me out a lot on things I've never fixed myself , and its not robbing yals business any, I'm way up here in the Virginia Appalachian mountains !
Ray, I really like your style, both as a mechanic and as a commentator.
I've not worked on cars in many year But i cant remember ever switching out the hole drive shaft for a damaged CV joint. was 1 of the dirtiest jobs on a car.
Loving the channel. Keep up the good work
As a diy person that can at times get in over my head this video was excellent! I did not mind the high speed as long as both both sides are identical. I enjoyed hearing the banter I worked in the Chevy garage in my teens and 20s we were a good team. I had not accessed those memories in a long time, thanks!
As a mechanic in Buffalo, NY.. its nice to see things like tie rods and the cotter pins actually come out and apart like they should.
I love the banter between you and your coworkers
Playfull and fun
It’s good to see a mechanic that gets in and does the job.
Our pickup has been in a shop for over seven weeks. Not waiting on parts, waiting on the shop to get to work on it. This is really crap when you are traveling, making us over 2 months late for the beginning of our winter vacation. Plus paying double rent, our rent is already paid at our destination.
Keep up the good work!
Whats the issue with the pickup? some background on the problem, make n model etc? I don't work on American vehicles here (New Zealand) but 7 weeks is ridiculous, takes 2 day turn around tops on an engine replacement for most vehicles here, I can't imagine why it takes 7 weeks for anything. I get that its a busy time of year for mechanics (run off our feet here), but to hang on to a customers vehicle for that long with no progress is disgusting.
@@waikatowizard1267
The high pressure fuel pump came apart sending metal filings all thru the fuel system. About a 30 hour repair but the shop has to get a mechanic to stay with it. They were slow to get started and now the owner says it’s a slow job.
Live in Nova Scotia and it’s refreshing to see how unrusty the vehicles you working on are
ABS/speed sensor came out of its sensor hole? I've yet to see that in real life. NS cars more than 3 years old are toast if not undercoated heavily.
I have a van from arizona, that will draw 2 or 3 techs in northern MN with how unrusty it is for being an 07, its never winter driven and used mainly for storm chasing in the summer months. it still blows my mind how clean it is.
I dont own a Honda Odyssey, will probably never own one. But I love good guides on how to fix things. I am not a mechanic, I do try to fix my old shitbox subaru whenever I can though. Videos like this helped me along. Keep this up. Also, once I forgot to put the cotter pin in after replacing a ball joint.... don't make that mistake it was very difficult to get my cv axel back in place after that.
An ABS sensor that actually comes out intact and reusable... amazing :) (for those in the UK anyway)
Go too New York the rusk belt and you will change your mind when the hole frame is rusted out and will break in half.
Yes, it must be pure joy working on only unrusted cars!
@@leifvejby8023 it definitely is. I moved from the rust belt to FL and I can definitely say I don't miss the rust.
@@inoahmann7542 I live in Denmark, lots of salt on the roads during the winter - a car without treatment won't last more than 5 - 8 years!
Cars are just temporary transport solutions here. 😢
@@leifvejby8023 yikes, the salt doesn't even work all that well. For the amount of environmental and mechanical damage it causes, I'm surprised it hasn't been banned.
Warp speed works especially when it’s a repeat of the work you just did. I like the little explanations of what you a doing and why. Well done
I had the EXACT SAME symptoms on my 2016 Odyssey. It was under warranty, so this was one of the few times I let someone (dealer) work on my car. I swore up and and down it was the CV axle. They agreed and replaced the left one. They gave it back to me, said it was fixed. The clickety clack came back after a day or so. So I took it back. After replacing the other CV, the wheel hub, and something else (tie rod maybe? They were grasping at straws), the clicks still would not go away! They ended up replacing the subframe!!! That finally fixed it permanently. So... looking back, I still don't know what to believe, to be honest. Was it really the subframe? How could the subframe cause this? Or could it be that they fouled up the CV replacement somehow (bad replacement part? Bad install?) and all the part-swapping eventually led them to doing it right? I'll never know. That's why I do my own work. I don't trust the workmanship of mechanics (no offense, Ray. And no offense to the other good mechanics reading this. It's unfortunate that good mechanics are hard to find). If it truly was the subframe, then I'm glad I let it be the dealer's problem. At any rate, I got a lot of free new parts out of the ordeal. Moral: I'm 99.9% sure you fixed that Odyssey, Ray. BUT... IF it comes back; remember my story, sir. As hard as it is for me to believe it was the subframe, the possibility haunts my thoughts to this day.
Just wanted to chime in. The subffames in these Hondas are not one piece manufacturing. They are multi layered steel welded together and then fitted with bushings at mounting points to increase strength and reduce weight for more mpgs. From time to time you get a subframe that even though it was welded properly , remember it is multilayered steel so it will have some slight give and if the pieces are fitter together ever so slightly off of alignment during assembly and welding then they can touch during weight transfer of the vehicle (braking acceleration turning etc) in the end this touching can create a pinging, creaking, or clicking noise.
@@abel1luma good info. Thanks for sharing!
I would also suspect that your Dealer did not put new CV shafts in there. What they will do is obtain what is cutely known as a "Reman" or so-called "re-manufactured" shaft. But, what was actually re-manufactured? If all the vendor did was replace a torn boot and re-pack with some grease, then sell it as new, you got someone else's worn shaft, but paid for a new one. I ran into this with a Subaru Sedan, two different Subaru dealers replaced front CV shafts (one did the left, and another shop did the right a year later). Those shafts lasted 18 months and failed. I then bought two NEEW shafts from a reliable aftermarket supplier (RockAuto) and had a client of mine who owns an independent shop replace them. Problem permanents solved.
What burns me is the shameless way those Dealers used old parts and charged me for new. And on the invoice was the cozy printing "reman" which would clear them from claims of fraudulent concealment. So a Dealer cannot go into his parts bin and pull a new shaft out, which is what you would expect? Instead they are shopping around to find some used part to fob off on you? Outrageous! From here on in I buy mhy own new parts and put them in myself. No more of this Dealer theft.
Showing it once will suffice. Good work , I'm still learning , so thanks for sharing.
Love the group do-de-do! And the super speed fix is fine with me. Doing a great job Ray!
Living on the east coast of Canada make me so jealous you can take stuff apart with out crazy amounts of rust. Unbolt and rebolt makes being a mechanic look east.
No wire brushes, torches or penetrating oil. Lol.
Keep the warp speed on mirrored processes. Prevents the click away like you mentioned.
Really nice how you can diagnose sounds from the suspension without touching or turning a single component
When you do the "super light speed motion" we all miss out on the entertaining workshop banter. In my opinion, I'd rather watch the full thing, regardless of how long it takes or parts you have to make.
Keep up the good work Ray, love your content. 👍👏
Full unedited versions may be their own channel. I would wonder how they do against each other. In this day of reels, shirts and TikTok, it's quite a feat to be able to do a one hour video that so many will watch from start to finish.
Nice job troubleshooting, and then removing/replacing the axles. The higher-speed run through of a previously demonstrated removal/replacement is fine, I think. [those cv axles look pricey, but it was smart of the customer to replace both left & right at the same time).
Just did both CV axles on my '10 Outback - pretty simple but found that the previous owner (I'd just bought it used the week before) had overfilled the transmission - I ended up with more than a liter of transmission lube pouring out of the axle penetration. LOL! I also wonder if you'd marked the strut for re-installing the knuckle to maintain the proper camber...I used my wife's nail polish to mark the cam bolt position before disassembly and matched up during reassembly. Great video and, yeah, warp speed for time is great.
I dont believe Hondas have an eccentric bolt up top for camber adjustment
Clearly you are not a mechanic Sir and you are teaching him how to get the work done! 😎
I like the new side by side lightning fast motion format. I think it's a great decision. Maybe a picture in picture could work too, if you get complaints about the aspect ratio
Once again, I really love how procedural you are at your job. Very good practice, and easier to learn from. =]
You even got us south Africans doing the Phone ring in our family Enjoy your diagnostic thought process keep up the good work
I love the amount of cohesion your team has
I wish I would have had guys like that in the last shop I worked and it would have made life a lot easier it's a pleasure to have a guy like that around the work with have a good day
Axle boot cracked or not the CV joints are week on these, particularly if your wife likes to accelerate hard from a stop with the wheel cranked. My 2012 started making noises under warranty and because the boots were intact the dealership shrugged it off. My clicking noise occurred when initiating a right turn from a stop, replaced the left/driver's side CV axle and it was gone. Fast forward 2 years and now I have the same sound but when initiating a left turn so I assume it's now the other side, right/passenger. I popped the lower ball joint & tie rod off to do this and in doing so found the ball joint needed replacing. The driver's side is super simple, passenger side complicated a bit by that carrier bearing. Went with a Cardone part, it was 1/4 the cost of OEM in Canada. Thanks for a great guide, will be tackling the passenger side soon!
Hahah, I love the convos between you and the others, also I'd suggest a head lamp, or a right angle light for in your pocket
A headlamp would be great for him, but probably not as great for the camera.
I haven't found one inspection light that stays put. The slightest knock and they throw themselves on the floor. Sometimes you just look at them wrong and off they jump.
Light speed rehash on the "easy" axle is just fine. The vid reminded me of the last time I remembered changing axles on my old late 80s accord. Drove it "clunkity clunk"-ing until the shaft spline pulled out of the drivers side outer cv on a right turn (mid intersection of course) around the corner from home. Actually reseated the shaft in about 3 seconds, even drove it to the parts store, lol. Took about 4 beers to complete both sides on jackstands with no power tools
Keep doing the fast motion. It's cool seeing it done in real time and then repeating it in warp speed!
Hi Ray ! Really liking your channel. You are the best because u don’t edit out the real life things that happen when working on a car . FYI i drop things too. It happens . I try not to but it happens . I work all day as a mechanic and then watch your channel . Is that crazy or what ? Keep doing what you are doing !!! I just got the Milwaukee angle impact after u got. I think it will be helpful .
I've watched your videos and other mechanics, I am not a mechanic but I enjoy to watch mechanic videos, and I love how you make repairs in a uniformed and careful fashion as if you are a scientist working with an ecosystem. Out of the numerous other mechanic videos, you seem to take your time and replace commonly worn down parts such as the crush components in a oil pan nut with charity in the upmost professional manner; while thinking about cost and valued customer input.
Keep the videos coming brother as you are not only sharing your work, but expressing art, love for the job, and compassion for the cars owners.
Well put, i agree!
Conscientious "mechanids" (purposeful spelling, indicating a specific species, who are honest) aren't paid nearly enough for the diagnostics and repairs they perform.
@@Patriottoo2 definatley not paid enough for the time experiance and the tools put into the field, than being good at it is even worse. I was collecting tools and working out of my garage thinking about it, after a few injuries went into electronic repair :( still work on my own vechiles tho. Funnier catching mechanics trying to scam you when you know what your talking about. Thats why i enjoy rays videos funny and honest
@@Patriottoo2 I agree and thank you for sharing the a new colloquial term that I do not recall hearing "mechanids". It has a nice ring to it!
Ray, I knew you would have the integrity to replace that Cotter pin you read my mind and did the right thing! I just wish a good me mechanic, someone like you worked in my town Portland Ore!
Just found this Channel and I love it, you’re awesome. your videos are fun, educational and are a pleasure to watch. Thank you so much for doing such a great job! And have a Happy Thanksgiving!
I like your warm speed, and useful tips you lay out.
For future reference, I recommend popping the lower ball joint loose rather than the strut bolts. It prevents having to take wires and such loose and you have plenty of wiggle room after popping the tie-rod end and the end-link at the strut loose. Keep it up! :)
Just disconnecting the lower control arm is usually enough on Hondas to pull the shaft out. I was a mechanic several years ago and loved these half shafts on Hondas. They paid pretty good, easy to diagnose and took 15 minutes with only needing to take of 4 fasteners off.
Really enjoying your videos as a new subscriber, I'm not mechanically minded at all I just enjoy watching your skills and listening to your humour! Happy Thanksgiving from the UK
I like the channel too but there is a lot of sloppiness here. Learn what you can from him and if you do your own car maintenance don't take shortcuts like he does.
Ahh the convos that go down in shops are the greatest when caught on cam. I’ve had some wild convos while at work and were hilarious
15:40 from Happy Gilmore
Virginia: What's this about you breaking a rake and throwing it in the woods?
Happy Gilmore: I didn't *break* it, I was merely testing its durability, and I *placed* it in the woods cause it's made of wood and I thought he should be with his family.
That’s a great line, I totally forgot about it. I gotta go watch Happy Gilmore again hahaha
Might be worth pinning a warning to non mechanics that a lot of vehicles use the strut to spindle joint as the camber adjustment by various means and that means very careful placement of the two bolt heads on reassembly or a trip to the alignment rack (that most don't have under their shady tree)
Ray, Sir you are a great mechanic and have a voice made for radio, great entertainment.
HAHAHa he has a face made for radio ! (I'm kiddin)
Warp speed is good. If there are no significant changes and if a problem occurs you can show us that part. Great video!!
Happy Thanksgiving Ray, God bless you and your family.
OK I saw no marking of the strut to the bearing housing so what are the chance this vehicle now has the proper camber adjustment? There was no mention that the car was going in for a camber check and adjust on an alignment rack.
I always have found that if you also remove the brake line from the support on the strut (alternately remove the caliper assy) it gives sufficient room to remove the axle with the strut disconnected the way you have done this. Easier to do that removing the steering joint as they can be real bears sometimes. Secondly, I ALWAYS put hi-temp (Copper based) anti-sieze on the outer axle splines in the hub as I have suffered some really siezed splines on high mileage cars.
And do you not do an alignment check on the front again??? Removing the strut bolts alters the caster on these McPherson strut suspensions. Look at the amount of play you get at 16.25. It is not much, but will wear the tires unevenly all the same!
Yea I like to just remove the caliper, it is just as quick and you put no risk damaging the brake line. I was confused that he didn't first break the axle nut loose to make sure that you can move on the axle splines and anti seize at the end to keep it from happening, but I guess that's what he gets being far more south where they don't like to seize up as much. The alignment is not necessary. Those bolts Effect camber for the most part and come factory with no preset for adjustment really, the tire wear just is what it is ( Yes even from factory they can come being out of spec on a brand new car) If you really care about it some aftermarket struts give slots for adjustments if you get some adjustable bolts.
Nice. I enjoy watching a skilled automotive surgeon doing the scary work with ease.
The moment when the title made sense was frickin funny 🤣
Great content and variety as always
Family channel right
No harm, no foul. My kinda guy, been saying that for years! I'm glad I got to see how to remove a stubborn abs, might have a project in the making and when it comes to things with wires I have a fear of using force! Keep doing what your doing!
When doing the right side, turn the steering wheel all of the way to the left, and vice-versa. This allows the knuckles to swing out enough to remove the half-shafts without removing the tie rod ends.
Cool! Thanks for the tip. That makes sense not sure why I didn't think of that.
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Or just zap the caliper bracket off and hand the whole caliper and bracket off the strut and it flops back a lot further
He had the control arm or knuckle hanging by the brake line. This is an absolute NO from me.
My Odyssey was making CV joint clicking noises like this at 28k miles, and I documented it with the dealer several times. They said it was the suspension spring, which I doubted since CV joint noise is distinct. Honda paid for the replacement out of warranty only because the problem was on record early.
The replacement axles are making noise 50k miles later. The mechanic said the CV joint problem is pretty common.
You forgot to mention it needs an allignment after loosening those bolts from a mcpherson suspension, so probably the wear on the tires will be off untill realignment is done. You can tell by hou much play there is on the hub when the bolts are in but not tightned. That is why I always loosen the lower ball joint because alignment costs money.
Me too, one of the bolts is excentric, the flange pulls against an edge for adjustment.
@@Bratfalken i don't think that is the case here. The bolts are the same, but there is just more play at the whole assembly to have ajustable alignment. Think with wheel mounted and on floor the wheel can be adjusted more than 2 cm, and from alignment view that is a lot.
isnt one of the strut bolt is the camber bolt? On the UberSu has a camber bolt on the strut tower.
Light speed is good with me, as long as you can slow it back to point out "functional asymmetry" 😆 is that a thing? (Like oh btw on the left side you have to move this extra bit).
Thanks for the awesome content sir
I have changed more than one Honda right front axel and the method I use is just to undo the lower ball joint and the whole rotor will swing out with enough room to pull the axel out. Now this is just my way and as usually there are more that’s one way to crack an egg. Just a thought. I have learned a great deal watching your videos,s thks..
Liking the split screen, the new into & the soul-damaging quote also... However, at 23:06 *please* Ray, do not hit the customers wheels with the torque wrench. For one it'll throw off the calibration and for two it can damage the finish of the wheels ( besides, you've been told about hitting the cars before when the lady caught you in the act lol). Have a great day yourself sir, and congrats on getting Peter on the "doo doodoo doodoo" train.
A customer brought his Trailblazer in today for tires (that he refused to have balanced, btw). Both front tires were about 50% tread on the outside, but were worn almost completely through the steel belts on the inside. We can only do tires and oil changes, and aren't allowed to do any actual diagnosis of vehicles, but I wiggled both front wheels anyway, for my own curiosity. The passenger front wheel bearing had very slight play in it, but the driver side had a significant amount of play. After we were done, the customer asked "why did my tires wear like that?" I wanted to say "Gee, IDK, maybe the front wheel bearings that have probably been howling away for the past YEAR?", but, going back to the "no diagnosing" thing, all I was allowed to say was "Probably something worn in your front suspension, like a ball joint or wheel bearing or something. I'd take it to an alignment shop, explain how the old tires were worn, and have them check it out."
I was waiting for "As a self confessed player of the pink oboe he always went to band camp!" 😆
Oh! And here they're called split pins. Cotter pins are the old school way to hold pedal cranks onto the bottom axle of bicycles.
If you get time it would be interesting to see the damage/wear of the old components compared to the the new ones Ray. I was wondering about what was going on under that boot. Do you think it was just wear brought about by dirt & grit getting in there once the boot had split? And didn't you need to grease the new ones?
"Doooodle-ooo-dulloooo!"
For the record they come pre-lubed and with a core charge when you buy reman.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind Thank you, I didn't know that 😃
@John Verne Thank you. All new information for me. 😃
The closest I came to repairing one was having to fit a new boot on my Citroen BX 19 GTi when it failed it's M.O.T. test for it. Luckily you can get new boots that you just wrap around.
I think they're worried the grease will fly out and get on your pads & disks.
They were happy with it when re tested.
Ira J. Young invented the cotter pin in 1912 in St. Louis, Missouri. He "applied for a patent on a machine for forming split pins," later referred to as cotter pins.
Not really... They were called Cotter Pins in 1958... Decades before you were born...
I love what you did with the side by side warp speed and normal speed
Due to the slop in the strut mount bolt holes, wouldn't it be a good idea to check camber after the repair?
Biscuits and Gravy
Caster and Camber
I always disconnected the lower ball joint, gives you enough room & you don’t run the risk of changing the camber ! (Full left wheel for RHSide if the steering rod is to the rear)etc.
Regards,
Sandy
fast forward thru a repetitive procedure is ok.....as long as no wisdom, jokes, or clowning is missed.....
I like the warp speed during the repetition repairs. You make it look easy.
Warp speed is fine with me, especially on things that you have done countless times before like removing drain plug or replacing filter. I would concentrate on the unique repairs that we don't see very often. Nice job on the intro segment. I really enjoy your videos and I watch every one. Thanks.
I was calling out to you about that ABS Sensor Wire stretching, but I guess you couldn't hear me from way up here in Canada, so I am putting it here in the doobly-do for next time! Excellent vids, good warp-speed repairs, keep up the good work!
I like the warp. But an even quicker like 20 little 1 second jump cuts is really satisfying too. Like "now im going to do tge ither one in warp speed" click, clunk, twist, click" as you show all of the dignificant moments like breaking loos a nut or sliding in/out an axle (or any significant moment) is a great catchy way to do it, a bit more editing work tho
Warp speed is a good move. On popping the lower strut mount off. We would always check the alignment afterwards as there is a tiny bit of movement in that lower strut mount which will alter the alignment a wee bit.
YMMV, but it’s an easy/quick thing to check. Also if the car is old enough to have trashed an axle boot, it likely is overdue for an alignment anyway.