Big like! It certainly feels like Christmas has come early! Really like that this design doesn't have a bunch of mass elevated to be thrown downwards and forwards during crashes. I mean landings! Thanks!
That 1st version looks about what I came up with for my first too. This video is a great help in getting me past a few iterations, that I would have inevitably needed to trash. What ever I decide to settle on, when I finally get there, I will have a head start, from where I would have been, without the help of this video. Thanks.
Very nice! I've just been fannying about with pan tilts for an FPV and HD camera setup and adapting this will be a darn sight easier than what I did! Great job!
Perfect Christmas gift for myself. Thank you for this design! I posted a comment on your Thingiverse page suggesting a camera mount version with IR LED FPV Combat gun mounts integrated. This way you can spot, aim and shoot at your target using a head tracker. This would be really cool and probably a major tactical advantage.
I labored into figuring out ABS printing for a year or so. The best method is to build a small enclosure, then use a heat gun to keep the inside nice and toasty. I used a 12v car space heater for a little while, and it worked great. I didn't feel comfortable leaving the room though, so I went back to using a heat gun a few times during the print. I mounted my electronics onto the side of the enclosure too.
@@Painless360 I will try it out. I have also seen you received it before me. I ordered weeks ago and shipment is probably 12/17 :| Can you maybe explain the cruise alpha thing when you fly it with your P/T cam? Thanks! :)
Thank you for posting and sharing been looking for a compact design, have you completed the mount for use with DJI air O3 camera? One using all the screw mounts on the camera.
nice! perhaps an underslung sample for a quadcopter, rear facing; of course landing might be a bit tricky unless motor skids are extended--just tinker thinking...off to view your 3D printing vids!
There's a lot I like about this design, but unfortunately my servos were a little too tall, and the horns didn't fit either. The retention on the pan servo also cracked out when I dropped it on the floor once. I don't feel like it would last more than a landing or two. Just like tilt, I think pan retention should use a horn too. Would likely make that joint much stronger. Going to have to remix it! I had some printing issues, so I'm going to try to find a solution that doesn't require supports. Maybe that's not possible though, we will see. Thanks for giving me a great start though.
Designed for cheap, plastic geared SG90 servos. Best of luck with your design. This one is shared under the Creative common - no derivatives and non commercial licence. Best of luck with your design... Happy flying!
My DuraFly T-28 with the pan-tilt ready canopy comes in the end of the week, and I was just thinking about what setup I wanted to do for the mount. Well, this is now printing.... Thanks! And it is already the right size for the Caddx Polar Vista kit I have sitting here. ^_^
Great video and design Lee!! Also cheers for the information on Filamentive - I really like their ‘green’ philosophy - recycled materials and cardboard packaging is a big win for me!!
Yep PETG is my go to plastic for anything that is going outside. It's UV resistant and won't soften in places like your car on a sunny day. ABS is probably better but there are too many issues with that material, fumes and warping being the primary ones, plus in the end PETG is good enough
Interesting design. I don't like how the camera is mounted so far away from the pivot point but obviously you've prioritised the packaging over that so it's built to a specific purpose. It does look like it would be quite robust as well. I use PETg for everything these days and have done for years, I find it best to get one material type really well dialed in rather than keep switching all of the time. (I don't even use TPU for my quads, I just rely on the flexibility of PETg) The only real issue with PETg is that it likes to string, but the easiest solution to that is to setup pressure advance correctly and to print a single part at a time. (Or leave a large gap between each part) I've always used SpoolWorks in the past but E3D have been running down the SpoolWorks side of things so I might have to try the offerings from Filamentive. Interestingly Filamentive have a different datasheet for their black / white / transparent PETg compared to their coloured PETg. Your PETg settings are interesting, particularly your bed temperature. I have always used a higher bed temperature for PETg (85C) compared with what I used to use for PLA (60C) and that's also on a glass bed with hairspray. (Specifically 3DLac).
I really like the second version, Is it possible to provide the STEP file of the design? This design has a tight fit around the servo arm, but some of the servo I have may have different dimension. It would be great if we can just adjust the design parameter to fit our servo arm.
Another reason for using PETG over PLA on r/c aircraft is that it is more UV stable so survives outdoor use better. Shame it isn't biodegradable like PLA though.
Hi Lee, I just printed this and it works well. However the down travel needs to be limited to stop the servo burning out. How would you go about limiting that? I have it on a inav wing and a open tx radio..
Hi, this is Arne from Hamburg/Germany! I wonder how you fixed the servo to the bottom plate securely without having the correct fitting tooth bore...? I tried it with my ordered printed parts and it did not work! In consequence I made a larger bore and bonded a servo horn inside the plate - that works fine and I would propose to change the design in that way. But in general I like your design very well - thanks for that!
If you can give me specifics on what needs to change and my exactly how much I am happy to look at that. This is designed for the cheap SG90 style plastic servos. No one servo mount will work with all servo output shafts as there isn't a standard..
@@Painless360 Is there any chance to send here pics to you how I made the solution? I used original SG90 also and I allready made pics to show how it works!
Perfect timing! I'm building a pan/tilt DJI plane now and the gimbal that was recommended by Andy RC is out of stock. The low-profile is exactly what I need! Will this one rotate 180 degrees on pan?
Amazing! I have probably printed every single PT gimbal in thingiverse this seems by far the best design. Low profile sturdy. Is it possible to have base for a mini cam size also? Like 22mm one?
Hobbyking used to sell nice light weight pan tilt mechanisms with ball bearings. Unfortunately they were designed for old large board cameras. Something like that for modern small cameras would be perfect IMHO. If the dampening can be incorporated (e.g. by using silicon tunes as part of pushrod mechanism) then servo jitter can be eliminated too.
Just a regular SG90 plastic geared servo for all the ones I've printed here. The connection is designed to be a friction fit. Use the tip of a craft knife or a needle file to open the hole if your printer is printing it too small... Happy flying
Slightly better than ABS (but just as hard to print) is ASA. It is UV stable and a bit stronger than ABS. It is more expensive but great for outdoor items.
I am unable to download the files. I'm getting a 404 Error just before it asks me to pick a file location on my laptop. Can't wait to print it, I've been hoping for a low profile pan/tilt for my Mini Talon. Thanks from across the pond.
Off-topic, but would you please do a quick tutorial on how to do differential thrust in inav. I have a twin motor flitetest model I want to use differential thrust instead of Rudder, and I cannot find this information anywhere in the wiki or the forums. Is it still done in the radio? Or is it done in the configurator? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've covered this in the past. You can 'mix' a little rudder into the throttle mixes to do the same in INAV as you would in the radio. See th-cam.com/video/v0CABnPXqFE/w-d-xo.html
I have printed one of "low profile" versions on my resin printer. The prints are amazing but tilt servo body will not accept a standard 9g servo. The servos I have, they look just like the blue one in the video, are 21mm high but the mount will only accept about 18.5mm. Am I missing something? Thanks
Got sent this 3d print from a friend and I chopped it up and a little bit of glue to fit a Hawkeye thumb on The front but I'm wondering if there and option to fit this type to the front of it ? Or can you share the stl file so I can try to modify it in scad? Or shouldn't say I have a friend who knows what to do lol
Coming in here a little late, but I have some strange issues that maybe someone could help with. I printed out Lee compact pan and tilt parts, and they work great. I have skyzone cobra x v4 goggles, and I'm using a X20s Ethos radio. The issue I'm having is that, for some reason, all the settings in the radio keep randomly changing. Pan left, and right will invert or tilt up and down will invert randomly. I feel like it must be an issue in the goggles, as I don't see why the radio would randomly change things like that.
Not sure, I don't use ETHOS here. I'd check the incoming signals from the goggles on the radio when it works and see if those change when things reverse. That'll tell you if the goggles or radio are the cause... best of luck
@@Painless360 Another question if I may, I have noticed a few times that on the outputs screen the channel and mixer bars move opposite to each other sometimes one moves in the positive direction and the other in the negative direction. Shouldn't they always move together in the same direction?
I don’t understand why we still have hardware implemented pan and tilt, or rather why a software implementation isn’t so widely available. We have cameras that have a 180°+ field of view and just need the head tracker to pan the video feed. Maybe I’ll have a dabble doing this myself with a raspberry pi, no idea if they can input video though. I guess drawbacks are that you’re going to be sacrificing resolution and perhaps distortion.
That sounds like a great idea. Some closed source systems like the Parrot stuff did this and also provided stabilisation too. Having a cheaper easier way to do it would be great!
@@Painless360 yeah I’ve seen a couple of proprietary products. I see two ways of doing it: 1. Onboard digital pan+tilt system. This could be retrofitted, I.e. it has a couple of servo inputs that crop to the relevant portion of video before the downlink. 2. Ground based system that takes the full video feed and the signal from the head tracker to crop the video. 1. Is more weight, requires servo inputs and therefore takes up two channels. A more expensive system if you want to set up multiple models. But you get a higher quality video feed. 2. The plane is a lot simpler only requiring a direct downlink. Software pan/tilt system can be used for multiple systems but video quality will be lower. I’ve had a look and my ideas are to directly use a Raspberry Pi module as the camera. GPIO can be used for the video out to the downlink. I also found some code that can interpret an FrSky SBus signal but some electronics might be required to convert voltages. I’m really surprised such a system doesn’t really exist. I’m sure it would be super simple for a manufacturer to produce them.
Fantastic design, Lee! Thanks 've been looking for a pan/tilt I can print that's compact and low profile. this is perfect! Thanks Lee!
Big like! It certainly feels like Christmas has come early! Really like that this design doesn't have a bunch of mass elevated to be thrown downwards and forwards during crashes. I mean landings! Thanks!
That 1st version looks about what I came up with for my first too.
This video is a great help in getting me past a few iterations, that I would have inevitably needed to trash.
What ever I decide to settle on, when I finally get there, I will have a head start, from where I would have been, without the help of this video. Thanks.
Bravo! I've been looking for a low-profile P/T for ages. Thank you!
Beauty job Lee! I'll give her a go on my mini talon build for sure.
Many thanks Lee, I shall give this a go and see how it works out.
Keep up the great work and have fun.
Keep well and stay safe,
Joe
I've been looking for a pan/tilt I can print that's compact and low profile. this is perfect! Thanks Lee!
Grate concept, super simple !!!!
That's amazing! I wish I had a tenth of your technical prowess. Really amazing technology.
Looks absolutely PERFECT for my new Motion RC Bison! Has a cabin made for FPV!!👌🏻👌🏻
Very nice! I've just been fannying about with pan tilts for an FPV and HD camera setup and adapting this will be a darn sight easier than what I did! Great job!
Hi Mr P Great job, with your pan and tilt prints.
Thanks a million Lee! I am going to use this on my ASW28 build
Will give it a go. Been wanting a good compact Pan/tilt for several of my birds!
Perfect Christmas gift for myself. Thank you for this design!
I posted a comment on your Thingiverse page suggesting a camera mount version with IR LED FPV Combat gun mounts integrated. This way you can spot, aim and shoot at your target using a head tracker. This would be really cool and probably a major tactical advantage.
If you can give me the exact sizes for the bracket for the mod I can see about adding it..
@@Painless360 Great! Will do.
@@Painless360 Mail sent with pictures and exact dimensions.
Fantastic design, Lee! Thanks a lot! 😃
I still don't have a 3d printer, but it's definitely on my list!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great work Lee.keep it up my friend
I did mine in resin and it came out suuuper nicely. good design :)
Cool design.
Looks good! I have a plane I need to finish this winter this may work well on!
Great design that would work good on an RC car for FPV
Really nice idea and also good info and ideas about 3d printing solutions.
Thank you Lee!
Happy New Year🎉
You read my mind 😍😍😍🥳🥳🥳😈😈
Quickly becoming one of my favorite TH-cam channels
I labored into figuring out ABS printing for a year or so. The best method is to build a small enclosure, then use a heat gun to keep the inside nice and toasty. I used a 12v car space heater for a little while, and it worked great. I didn't feel comfortable leaving the room though, so I went back to using a heat gun a few times during the print. I mounted my electronics onto the side of the enclosure too.
Looks like it would also fit perfect on the new ZOHD Delta Strike, definately gonna print and test it! Thanks for sharing!
Indeed. If the cruise Alpha it needs isn't too much... Happy flying
@@Painless360 I will try it out. I have also seen you received it before me. I ordered weeks ago and shipment is probably 12/17 :| Can you maybe explain the cruise alpha thing when you fly it with your P/T cam? Thanks! :)
Great job and thank you for sharing!
Nice compact design. Can you add a 20mm design on your thingiverse for the DJI O3 HD camera? Thank you!
Nicely done, thank you!
Thank you Lee....
Thank you for posting and sharing been looking for a compact design, have you completed the mount for use with DJI air O3 camera? One using all the screw mounts on the camera.
Lots of different sized cameras supported, check out the listing on Thingiverse... Happy flying
nice! perhaps an underslung sample for a quadcopter, rear facing; of course landing might be a bit tricky unless motor skids are extended--just tinker thinking...off to view your 3D printing vids!
There's a lot I like about this design, but unfortunately my servos were a little too tall, and the horns didn't fit either. The retention on the pan servo also cracked out when I dropped it on the floor once. I don't feel like it would last more than a landing or two. Just like tilt, I think pan retention should use a horn too. Would likely make that joint much stronger. Going to have to remix it! I had some printing issues, so I'm going to try to find a solution that doesn't require supports. Maybe that's not possible though, we will see. Thanks for giving me a great start though.
Designed for cheap, plastic geared SG90 servos. Best of luck with your design. This one is shared under the Creative common - no derivatives and non commercial licence. Best of luck with your design... Happy flying!
Ive been using PLA+ for some time now Lee, Esun never had a problem
Nice.. I will be using one of these
Think I'll try this in TPU ...
Any chance we can get a 20mm design for the dji 03 or maybe a walksnail option?
Great work I’ll try it out
Arduino BLE is here, printer is set, DJI is hacked, Ranger 2000 is waiting for the upgrade. Perfection.
Best of luck with the build. This kind of thing is very fun!
Hi,
Love your design !!!!
Can you please add another option for the "old" factor HS1177 cameras?
26mm wide camera mount added to Tingiverse that should work! Best of luck!
@@Painless360 Wow!!!!!
Thank you very much ! 🥳
I appreciate it very much!!!
My DuraFly T-28 with the pan-tilt ready canopy comes in the end of the week, and I was just thinking about what setup I wanted to do for the mount. Well, this is now printing.... Thanks! And it is already the right size for the Caddx Polar Vista kit I have sitting here. ^_^
Thanks
Thanks for your efort 👍
Great video and design Lee!! Also cheers for the information on Filamentive - I really like their ‘green’ philosophy - recycled materials and cardboard packaging is a big win for me!!
Nice design🤩 Been wanting to get 3d printed pan&tilt that can go 360 or close to it. Since there's no 360° servo available in the market.
Thanks for sharing this great design. Is it sized for a dji hd cam like the vista?
Should work. Design is for 19mm cameras.. Happy flying
nice, might make a mod for carrying the CADDX LORIS too
Yep PETG is my go to plastic for anything that is going outside. It's UV resistant and won't soften in places like your car on a sunny day. ABS is probably better but there are too many issues with that material, fumes and warping being the primary ones, plus in the end PETG is good enough
This is one of the next 3 things on my list lol
Interesting design. I don't like how the camera is mounted so far away from the pivot point but obviously you've prioritised the packaging over that so it's built to a specific purpose. It does look like it would be quite robust as well.
I use PETg for everything these days and have done for years, I find it best to get one material type really well dialed in rather than keep switching all of the time. (I don't even use TPU for my quads, I just rely on the flexibility of PETg) The only real issue with PETg is that it likes to string, but the easiest solution to that is to setup pressure advance correctly and to print a single part at a time. (Or leave a large gap between each part)
I've always used SpoolWorks in the past but E3D have been running down the SpoolWorks side of things so I might have to try the offerings from Filamentive. Interestingly Filamentive have a different datasheet for their black / white / transparent PETg compared to their coloured PETg. Your PETg settings are interesting, particularly your bed temperature. I have always used a higher bed temperature for PETg (85C) compared with what I used to use for PLA (60C) and that's also on a glass bed with hairspray. (Specifically 3DLac).
I really like the second version, Is it possible to provide the STEP file of the design? This design has a tight fit around the servo arm, but some of the servo I have may have different dimension. It would be great if we can just adjust the design parameter to fit our servo arm.
Let me know the changes you want on Thingiverse. If you are a Patreon pop me the change and I'll tweak it for you as soon as I can..
What about using glow in the dark tpu?
You could try, it isn't designed for flexible filament.. best of luck.
Another reason for using PETG over PLA on r/c aircraft is that it is more UV stable so survives outdoor use better. Shame it isn't biodegradable like PLA though.
Hi Lee, I just printed this and it works well. However the down travel needs to be limited to stop the servo burning out. How would you go about limiting that? I have it on a inav wing and a open tx radio..
Limit the travel in the radio or INAV in the same way you'd do any other servo... Best of luck
Hi, this is Arne from Hamburg/Germany!
I wonder how you fixed the servo to the bottom plate securely without having the correct fitting tooth bore...?
I tried it with my ordered printed parts and it did not work!
In consequence I made a larger bore and bonded a servo horn inside the plate - that works fine and I would propose to change the design in that way.
But in general I like your design very well - thanks for that!
If you can give me specifics on what needs to change and my exactly how much I am happy to look at that. This is designed for the cheap SG90 style plastic servos. No one servo mount will work with all servo output shafts as there isn't a standard..
@@Painless360 Is there any chance to send here pics to you how I made the solution?
I used original SG90 also and I allready made pics to show how it works!
Perfect timing! I'm building a pan/tilt DJI plane now and the gimbal that was recommended by Andy RC is out of stock. The low-profile is exactly what I need! Will this one rotate 180 degrees on pan?
If you get a servo with that movements.. Happy flying
@@Painless360 I'm following Andy RC's pan/tilt setup where he mods 180 degree servos to go beyond 180 degrees.
Works the same.. Happy flying
I made a 3D printed gear reduction between servo and cam, now I have 360 pan 😉
If you are using iNav you can usually get closer to 270dg out of a 180deg servo without even modifying the servo.
I like it!, but why does nobody use "roll" anymore? I like it!!
Amazing! I have probably printed every single PT gimbal in thingiverse this seems by far the best design. Low profile sturdy. Is it possible to have base for a mini cam size also? Like 22mm one?
Sure, please pop the suggestion on the Thingiverse page android I'll tweak it..
Bravo! I made a servo pan tilt controlled by pixhawk and APM firmware, but it shakes and aggravate when when testing. Do u know what causes it?
Binding usually, make sure that all of the pivots are smooth and easy to turn.. Best of luck!
I use 2gr servo for tilt and pan so i can save much more weight...
Now my problem is i want servo can move 270 degress but can't find it in store
Hobbyking used to sell nice light weight pan tilt mechanisms with ball bearings. Unfortunately they were designed for old large board cameras. Something like that for modern small cameras would be perfect IMHO. If the dampening can be incorporated (e.g. by using silicon tunes as part of pushrod mechanism) then servo jitter can be eliminated too.
It's a shame that Hobbyking has lost the plot. They were the go-to for so many things... Happy flying
What servo are you using on top? none of mine seem to fit.
I've tried it with various cheap 9g servos... Happy flying
Any FPV quad frames you could recommend for using a Pan/Tilt.
I can't think of any of the top of my head. If you find one, please let me know.
What servo are you using to run the camera portion? None of my 9g ones fit.
Just a regular SG90 plastic geared servo for all the ones I've printed here. The connection is designed to be a friction fit. Use the tip of a craft knife or a needle file to open the hole if your printer is printing it too small... Happy flying
It's the physical size of the servo itself. The servo is too tall by a mm or so. Already broke a tab trying to pry it in. The gear hole is perfect.
hola la programacion con arduino para el seguimiento de cabeza, como hago para obtenerlo lo vende?
Check out my DIY headtracker video... Best of luck
Slightly better than ABS (but just as hard to print) is ASA. It is UV stable and a bit stronger than ABS. It is more expensive but great for outdoor items.
I am unable to download the files. I'm getting a 404 Error just before it asks me to pick a file location on my laptop. Can't wait to print it, I've been hoping for a low profile pan/tilt for my Mini Talon. Thanks from across the pond.
Thingiverse is pretty mucked up at the moment. Download the files individually rather than all at once
@@ingleburn Thanks for the tip sir!
Off-topic, but would you please do a quick tutorial on how to do differential thrust in inav. I have a twin motor flitetest model I want to use differential thrust instead of Rudder, and I cannot find this information anywhere in the wiki or the forums. Is it still done in the radio? Or is it done in the configurator? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've covered this in the past. You can 'mix' a little rudder into the throttle mixes to do the same in INAV as you would in the radio. See th-cam.com/video/v0CABnPXqFE/w-d-xo.html
@@Painless360 perfect, thank you. I knew it had to be hiding in plain sight somewhere.
How can we buy one of these. I don't want a 3d printer.
I've already shared my designs for free.... best of luck
Do you sell these pan and tilt gimbals?
No, I share the files so you can print them for free... Happy flying
I have printed one of "low profile" versions on my resin printer. The prints are amazing but tilt servo body will not accept a standard 9g servo. The servos I have, they look just like the blue one in the video, are 21mm high but the mount will only accept about 18.5mm. Am I missing something? Thanks
Just answered my own question. I was trying to use a metal gear servo, too big, the nylon gear servo fits perfectly. Hope this helps someone else!
That's it! Note added to design on thingiverse to make that more obvious. Happy flying!
Got sent this 3d print from a friend and I chopped it up and a little bit of glue to fit a Hawkeye thumb on The front but I'm wondering if there and option to fit this type to the front of it ? Or can you share the stl file so I can try to modify it in scad? Or shouldn't say I have a friend who knows what to do lol
Great to hear that you are using one of my designs. Happy flying!
im am also unable to download the files..getting the 404 error
thank you so much for the great work with this pan and tilt
Thingiverse is pretty mucked up at the moment. Download the files individually rather than all at once
Coming in here a little late, but I have some strange issues that maybe someone could help with. I printed out Lee compact pan and tilt parts, and they work great. I have skyzone cobra x v4 goggles, and I'm using a X20s Ethos radio. The issue I'm having is that, for some reason, all the settings in the radio keep randomly changing. Pan left, and right will invert or tilt up and down will invert randomly. I feel like it must be an issue in the goggles, as I don't see why the radio would randomly change things like that.
Not sure, I don't use ETHOS here. I'd check the incoming signals from the goggles on the radio when it works and see if those change when things reverse. That'll tell you if the goggles or radio are the cause... best of luck
@@Painless360 Ok I'll check that thanks.
@@Painless360 Another question if I may, I have noticed a few times that on the outputs screen the channel and mixer bars move opposite to each other sometimes one moves in the positive direction and the other in the negative direction. Shouldn't they always move together in the same direction?
Depends which channels you are referring to. Things like dual channel ailerons often move in opposite directions... best of luck
Thank you sir.
What camera should I use
th-cam.com/video/irQ3vxMII5c/w-d-xo.html
ABS is real hard to print without warping. And the heat required will damage your motors and electeonics.
PETG and ABS is the way to go
I don’t understand why we still have hardware implemented pan and tilt, or rather why a software implementation isn’t so widely available. We have cameras that have a 180°+ field of view and just need the head tracker to pan the video feed.
Maybe I’ll have a dabble doing this myself with a raspberry pi, no idea if they can input video though.
I guess drawbacks are that you’re going to be sacrificing resolution and perhaps distortion.
That sounds like a great idea. Some closed source systems like the Parrot stuff did this and also provided stabilisation too. Having a cheaper easier way to do it would be great!
@@Painless360 yeah I’ve seen a couple of proprietary products. I see two ways of doing it:
1. Onboard digital pan+tilt system. This could be retrofitted, I.e. it has a couple of servo inputs that crop to the relevant portion of video before the downlink.
2. Ground based system that takes the full video feed and the signal from the head tracker to crop the video.
1. Is more weight, requires servo inputs and therefore takes up two channels. A more expensive system if you want to set up multiple models. But you get a higher quality video feed.
2. The plane is a lot simpler only requiring a direct downlink. Software pan/tilt system can be used for multiple systems but video quality will be lower.
I’ve had a look and my ideas are to directly use a Raspberry Pi module as the camera. GPIO can be used for the video out to the downlink. I also found some code that can interpret an FrSky SBus signal but some electronics might be required to convert voltages.
I’m really surprised such a system doesn’t really exist. I’m sure it would be super simple for a manufacturer to produce them.
Hanzhen harmonic drive gear , strain wave reducer,
robot joint, over 30 years experience
Huh? Can you explain more?