That’s good to know. I just put in a new engine in my 2013 bmw and only drove it 3 months. I hoped to drive it another 10 yrs and I was recently rear ended. The car is total loss. I am devastated because I also did the suspension. Spent almost 17k this year in that car to try and avoid having to buy another car. Thank you for the advice.
So long you pay your insurance on time to the premeium boys and girls, everything is so good. Have a claim, get ready for a fight with the insurance company, low ball figures and a take it or see you in court attitude.
I was traveling down the hwy going 50mph when someone at a stop sign pulled out in front of me causing me to hit them, and then causing my car to lose control and then colliding into an electric pole. I filled a claim through my insurance company for them to collect from the at fault driver and agreed to $500 deductible. I was provided with a rental. I spoke with one adjuster and didn't feel the ACV from their CCC one report was not fair because all of their comparisons were so far away or the crappy condition of the cars lowered the value, yet some of the comparisons selling price was $3-4k more than my car. I decline with the first 1st adjuster and told them I had bought my car new, AWD and kept the maintenance, tires with 20k miles of warranty, 3/4 tank of gas and it's been inspected. He responded that it didn't matter and my receipts, or the fact it's a one owner car won't change the ACV. Then a 2nd total loss adjuster calls me back ready to wrap up the claim and needs my permission to pay off my bank. I argued that the comparisons weren't fair because some of the listed were not available and the 3rd comparisons was a 2 owner, moderate wreck, and the dealership emailed me that it was in the shop for engine repair. The closest comparisons light years away, fwd, more miles and sell $4k more then mine, and inflation is driven the prices higher. I haven't agreed to settle but they don't want to negotiate. I even wonder if the adjusters tag team with each other to split a deal.
No insurance company is going to pay the replacement cost of a vehicle, only the value of the vehicle that was totaled. Most adjusters do take into account the condition of the tires and gas in the tank. It sounds like you may have an older vehicle that was kept in good shape. And if so, that's your problem. The older the vehicle, the harder it is to get an insurance company to pay a higher price for one that has been well maintained. The fact that you are being offered enough to pay off the loan is a big win. The unfortunate reality is that you are now stuck having to pay for a new car with a new loan or lease and start all over again.
Thank you for your insight. There are dealerships selling crap used cars, multi owner, over 100k miles, wrecked for close $ or more than what mine is valued. The thought of buying used is a big risk and yet that seems to be the affordable options these days. Yes starting from scratch is hard, but especially in this uncertain economy.
@robicarm yes, how did it go? We had a 2016 Ford Explorer that we bought this past November, owned outright, where a similar incident happened to us, and we have dashcam. Right now our baby is sitting at the wreaker service, and we're waiting for our case report to come out so we can file a claim with the at fault drivers insurance. And we were totally not at fault. We didn't have a stop sign or red lights, and Ole dude decided to fly straight through their stop sign... My husband and I are low income, but my husband recently got an inheritance check, preceding his late mother, where we were able to purchase our suv outright. And we're both scared to death that those piece of crap adjusters are going to try and make us eat this loss. If they do, I'm ready to say screw insurance all together. If their not going to do their job when these kind of things happen, what's their use? Either way, what happened with your case?
What about aftermarket upgrades? I have over $7,500 in aftermarket upgrades to my car that is now totaled according to the insurance adjuster of the guy that hit me. I haven't seen the offer yet but have a feeling im about to get screwed.
My problem is that my car was dirty when he looked at interior. Once I detailed it there isn’t a scratch and he has many listed. It’s an old car but I’ve taken care of it. Personally I’ve seen other cars like mine that ARE really rough, inside and out and cried to think I would have to buy another. Although I gave many miles I was the second owner. I don’t understand how my car can be half what fair market is before my accident and hail damage. Everyone says, take the money and you can fix it for the check amount. But I’ve talked to one hundred body shops and there is Absolutely no wiggle room
Well none of that is working for me. The NADA is considerably lower than kbb and edmunds. Comparable sales start at $4000 more that the NADA. It is 100% the other drivers fault and I have been without a car since February 8, 2022. I am dealing with the state of ga. Do I need to file a law suit?
Hi Lisa: Sorry you are having such a difficult time. I'm not licensed in Georgia, so I can only speak generally, But KBB and Edmunds tends to have inflated numbers and NADA tends to be more in line with the baseline values. Issues such as the vehicle being older, or having high mileage, or having pre-existing damage all affect how a vehicle is valued by an adjuster. I'm not sure where your vehicle falls in this analysis or why your number is so different from the adjuster's. But having multiple sources showing your cars value is certainly persuasive if combined, they are higher that what they are offering.
thank you sir for the information. can I also ask compenstation for the loss of work time in order to search and purchase a replacement car? thank you.
I just have a question my 2013 Camaro was totaled and I watched your video and you said to use it in a DA website now the value that I’m supposed to tell my adjuster is the value from a dealer or is it trade-in value?
@@davidbuckley5100 so the adjuster offered me 12,000 but NADA SAYING IT’S WORTH 15,300 I DON’T THINK I’LL GET THAT SHOULD I ASK FOR 14 OR SHOULD I JUST WAIT AND SEE WHAT THEY OFFER THE SECOND OFFER?
Not great advice. I was offered almost 10k for my total vehicle but the fair market value was 14k so I rejected the payout and sent a dozen example of similar cars in my area for reference. My claim was assigned to a new agent and I didn’t hear from them for 3 weeks and when I finally did, they had a new valuation written up with a new estimated value 5k LESS than the original payout offered! I lost 5k by not accepting the payout and now this new agent isn’t budging even by $20. I should have just accepted the original payout ☹️
I am sorry to hear that. That is an unusual experience. I'm not sure how much time you could have spent on this, but you could have filed suit against the insurance company in small claims court. Once there, you could have presented all of the due diligence you worked hard to get to prove your valuation and let the judge decide how much your car was worth. Dave Buckley
i inherited a nice car from my dad, tip top shape, and low miles.. it got hit with a hail storm, and now the insurance company said its totalled.. they offer me a fair amount, but only if i give them the car.. otherwise, theyre just offering me half of that amount, and i get to keep my own car.. well isnt that nice.. i thought the whole point of comprehensive insurance was to get the car covered for such things.. isnt that what i paid for, and they agreed to? is this sort of thing legal? i wasnt paying inurance to sell the insurance company my car, when it came time to claim hail damage
I hear you. It can be frustrating when a seemingly fully operational and safe car is totaled. This happens a lot with older cars when the cost of repairs exceeds their actual value. That sounds like what's happening here. When a car is totaled and the insurance company pays you for the loss, you do have to transfer title/ownership to them. That's the "bargained for exchange" to make you whole. Some people who want to keep their cars and fix it, can opt for a "salvage" title, meaning the insurance company will pay the salvage value of the vehicle, and temporarily take ownership on paper and then issue you back a "salvage title". They will pay you less than it's actual value because you are being "made whole" by being paid for the damage AND keeping the car, which also has value. You'll have to do some math to see what makes the best business sense. Take the full totaled value or the salvage value. Good luck.
My car was damaged 6k it a 2012 fusion se. They say can't fix it they tried value the amount by just look at few pictures not see the car in person they try devalue the interior was not bad was good running car. They offer 3k when i just paid this car off this aug 9k
Great video!! So, Im anticipating my vehicle to be a total loss, but that's to be determined at the body shop tomorrow. Do I negotiate the value of my vehicle and set my number with my adjuster BEFORE or AFTER I take it in and its deemed a loss?
My insurance (state farm) has 3 options to go by.. one of them being to replace the car for equal or greater value. Did I read that wrong or do they just automatically give cash values? I'm in Illinois for reference
Hi, I bought a car from a friend but he just said had an accident but I car fax the car and shows it was total loss and rebuilt and obviously is priced different there’s any way I can get my money back if was bought cash
I have a question: the comps used for my settlement where not even the same trim bed size and added features my truck and on the other side of the country ca resident and comps in Maryland value was set at 23,817, yet late last year trade in offer was 23,500 after it was inspected. Ins told me to submit comps and everything I could find that was an exact match in my are was 3k-5k more than comp vehicles used. I pointed this out and contacted a 3rd party appraiser which valued the truck @27,505 insurance value was 23,817 is this right? Am I going to have to go through an umpire for this?
If you haven't settled your case, ask to speak with the adjuster's supervisor. If your supporting information is more persuasive than theirs, you should be able to get a more accurate value.
wife provided grandaughter with financing of car. Three weeks after insurance was canceled, car was wrecked and totalled. Car purchased before our marriage. $15,000 owed. I have been making payments for last year as we are not sure what to do. I am 80 & wife is 77 yrs old. What are our options her in Hobbs New Mexico? Car was a 2019 Nissan Rogue. The other driver drove a pickup truck also did not have insurance. Both drivers recieved a police citation. Road was extra very slick with ice. Richard R.
You don't say if the car was totaled as the result of someone else crashing into her. I assume that is not the case, so you are looking at a complete loss because there was no insurance. Regardless of the car's existence or non-existence, the financial obligation remains. I'm not licensed to practice in New Mexico, but Google "Consumer Rights Attorney Near Me" and you should see a number of local attorneys to call who can help you with your current circumstance.
Lol i was hit by someone who ran a stop sign. Their insurance totaled out my vehical with out ever looking at it. Worth 8k but inly being offered 4k. Note: the mechanics i brought it to say it isnt totaled. How do i get that reversed ?
I have a question. I was in accident that wasn't my fault but I had to file the claim with my insurance because the at fault partie's insurance was trying to blame me. My car was towed to a towing yard, I gave authorization to Statefarm to move it but I have my tag. It was moved to Copart in Spartanburg, SC. Since I have my tag does it mean its a total lose? They were saying it but it hasn't been confirmed.
You would have had to sign something in order for the insurance company to move the car. They move it because they don't want to keep paying the storage fees. They should eventually pay you the fair value for your car, though.
Auto-Owners is $20K less than NADA's delta of Low and Average retail. When I asked the adjuster why so much lower, she claimed all the insurance companies go by CCC One, and NADA is a no-factor.
I am glad to hear from you! In my experience, CCC can be on the low end of valuation. Is the vehicle you found through NADA geographically closer or do you have a better comp for the vehicle? If so, I would send what you found to Auto Owners and ask them to include the appropriate comps they find in their average of comp vehicles to better determine regional market price. I am not sure how accurately NADA’s average retail cost considers regional variation in pricing. So, instead of saying the average on NADA is 20k more than offer, you might consider sending the better comps you found and ask that they be averaged into the CCC valuation. Hopefully this makes sense. I also recommend that, if a property damage estimator did this total loss evaluation, that you speak with the property damage estimator and not the normal adjuster. Often times the normal adjusters have their marching orders and don’t realize what goes into the total loss evaluation at all. They just see the number from their PD team and defend that number. Hope that helps.
CCC One are currently under litigation for allegedly working with insurance companies by providing estimates thousands below market value saving companies thousands per claim.
Neither. The value of your car is determined by the NADA valuation. The adjuster's version of the NADA book does not use "trade-in" or "retail" terms. It's just one number based on all of the variables plugged in to determine the value.
Got retail prices that matched on nada, and I see cars valued my car the same. Well see all the comps are around here are similar as well +/-1000 Sucks a random deer ran into us that we never saw and now we'll see how underwater i am in few days. Had it s five whole days. Should have gotten gap but I planned on refinancing their bad rate a bit after purchase locally. Well if I get what I paid for it plus tax and remove the 58 remaining months of the prorated extended warranty k got a decent shot at only losing out a few hundred bucks. Crazy part is I couldn't have avoided. We literally seen the airbags at 65 and never saw the dear hit on her side. We were so damn confused cause it was wide open in front of us and clear Sky's.
I got rear-ended one month after I had gotten my hood and roof re-painted, and the car was declared a total loss (doesn't take much to reach that threshold with an old car). The adjuster with Progressive refused to budge upward on his settlement offer when I told him about the recent paint work. He claimed that painting was routine maintenance, not refurbishment, so it didn't count! I also pointed out that he didn't know if his comps were fair because he didn't have information about the conditions of the comps compared to the pre-crash condition of my car, but he dismissed that argument. He said that if I didn't like his number, I could hire my own appraiser at my expense. Instead, I filed a second claim with my own insurance company (State Farm) through the subrogation process. Their estimate was $450 higher than Progressive's offer, so I accepted it.
If they total a car that can be repaired for 9K, they will NOT make the victim whole again. If they repair the car, I'll be closer to being made whole. I've spent a lot of money to keep my car pristine and invested in having the vehicle at 100%.
NADA is not the be-all and end-all. It's a tool that insurance companies use. You can dispute that too. I used Edmunds to show that my particular (representative) vehicle was being purchased at a significantly higher price than the adjuster's valuation. The insurance company then told me that I was mistaken because their valuation was based on market value less depreciation...on a nine-year-old Subaru which is total BS. It took two weeks and three levels of management but I did get the valuation raised by $1600. I guess it depends on the company but this one was obviously not operating in good faith.
That’s good to know. I just put in a new engine in my 2013 bmw and only drove it 3 months. I hoped to drive it another 10 yrs and I was recently rear ended. The car is total loss. I am devastated because I also did the suspension. Spent almost 17k this year in that car to try and avoid having to buy another car. Thank you for the advice.
So long you pay your insurance on time to the premeium boys and girls, everything is so good. Have a claim, get ready for a fight with the insurance company, low ball figures and a take it or see you in court attitude.
The law abiding citizens who do the right thing always get fucked.
I was traveling down the hwy going 50mph when someone at a stop sign pulled out in front of me causing me to hit them, and then causing my car to lose control and then colliding into an electric pole. I filled a claim through my insurance company for them to collect from the at fault driver and agreed to $500 deductible. I was provided with a rental. I spoke with one adjuster and didn't feel the ACV from their CCC one report was not fair because all of their comparisons were so far away or the crappy condition of the cars lowered the value, yet some of the comparisons selling price was $3-4k more than my car. I decline with the first 1st adjuster and told them I had bought my car new, AWD and kept the maintenance, tires with 20k miles of warranty, 3/4 tank of gas and it's been inspected. He responded that it didn't matter and my receipts, or the fact it's a one owner car won't change the ACV. Then a 2nd total loss adjuster calls me back ready to wrap up the claim and needs my permission to pay off my bank. I argued that the comparisons weren't fair because some of the listed were not available and the 3rd comparisons was a 2 owner, moderate wreck, and the dealership emailed me that it was in the shop for engine repair. The closest comparisons light years away, fwd, more miles and sell $4k more then mine, and inflation is driven the prices higher. I haven't agreed to settle but they don't want to negotiate. I even wonder if the adjusters tag team with each other to split a deal.
No insurance company is going to pay the replacement cost of a vehicle, only the value of the vehicle that was totaled. Most adjusters do take into account the condition of the tires and gas in the tank. It sounds like you may have an older vehicle that was kept in good shape. And if so, that's your problem. The older the vehicle, the harder it is to get an insurance company to pay a higher price for one that has been well maintained. The fact that you are being offered enough to pay off the loan is a big win. The unfortunate reality is that you are now stuck having to pay for a new car with a new loan or lease and start all over again.
Thank you for your insight. There are dealerships selling crap used cars, multi owner, over 100k miles, wrecked for close $ or more than what mine is valued. The thought of buying used is a big risk and yet that seems to be the affordable options these days. Yes starting from scratch is hard, but especially in this uncertain economy.
How did it went mate, I am just this stage “Negotiation”.
@robicarm yes, how did it go? We had a 2016 Ford Explorer that we bought this past November, owned outright, where a similar incident happened to us, and we have dashcam. Right now our baby is sitting at the wreaker service, and we're waiting for our case report to come out so we can file a claim with the at fault drivers insurance. And we were totally not at fault. We didn't have a stop sign or red lights, and Ole dude decided to fly straight through their stop sign...
My husband and I are low income, but my husband recently got an inheritance check, preceding his late mother, where we were able to purchase our suv outright. And we're both scared to death that those piece of crap adjusters are going to try and make us eat this loss.
If they do, I'm ready to say screw insurance all together. If their not going to do their job when these kind of things happen, what's their use?
Either way, what happened with your case?
What about aftermarket upgrades? I have over $7,500 in aftermarket upgrades to my car that is now totaled according to the insurance adjuster of the guy that hit me. I haven't seen the offer yet but have a feeling im about to get screwed.
You might be able to get reimbursed for the upgrades if you have receipts.
My problem is that my car was dirty when he looked at interior. Once I detailed it there isn’t a scratch and he has many listed. It’s an old car but I’ve taken care of it.
Personally I’ve seen other cars like mine that ARE really rough, inside and out and cried to think I would have to buy another. Although I gave many miles I was the second owner. I don’t understand how my car can be half what fair market is before my accident and hail damage. Everyone says, take the money and you can fix it for the check amount. But I’ve talked to one hundred body shops and there is Absolutely no wiggle room
Well none of that is working for me. The NADA is considerably lower than kbb and edmunds. Comparable sales start at $4000 more that the NADA. It is 100% the other drivers fault and I have been without a car since February 8, 2022. I am dealing with the state of ga. Do I need to file a law suit?
Hi Lisa: Sorry you are having such a difficult time. I'm not licensed in Georgia, so I can only speak generally, But KBB and Edmunds tends to have inflated numbers and NADA tends to be more in line with the baseline values. Issues such as the vehicle being older, or having high mileage, or having pre-existing damage all affect how a vehicle is valued by an adjuster. I'm not sure where your vehicle falls in this analysis or why your number is so different from the adjuster's. But having multiple sources showing your cars value is certainly persuasive if combined, they are higher that what they are offering.
I'm in the same problem, 100% other drivers fault and the want to give me pocket change for 5k worth of damage!
thank you sir for the information. can I also ask compenstation for the loss of work time in order to search and purchase a replacement car? thank you.
Hi @chengchu88. I’m not sure what state you are in, but it is not likely you would be able to make those claims.
I just have a question my 2013 Camaro was totaled and I watched your video and you said to use it in a DA website now the value that I’m supposed to tell my adjuster is the value from a dealer or is it trade-in value?
Retail value. What you get for it if you sold it.
@@davidbuckley5100 so the adjuster offered me 12,000 but NADA SAYING IT’S WORTH 15,300 I DON’T THINK I’LL GET THAT SHOULD I ASK FOR 14 OR SHOULD I JUST WAIT AND SEE WHAT THEY OFFER THE SECOND OFFER?
@@keithhernandez4319 show the Adjuster the NADA report and ask for the $15,400
Well I waited it out got offered by my adjuster 14,562.00 and I took that. But there taking there sweet time paying
@@keithhernandez4319 how long have you been watching
Not great advice.
I was offered almost 10k for my total vehicle but the fair market value was 14k so I rejected the payout and sent a dozen example of similar cars in my area for reference. My claim was assigned to a new agent and I didn’t hear from them for 3 weeks and when I finally did, they had a new valuation written up with a new estimated value 5k LESS than the original payout offered! I lost 5k by not accepting the payout and now this new agent isn’t budging even by $20. I should have just accepted the original payout ☹️
I am sorry to hear that. That is an unusual experience. I'm not sure how much time you could have spent on this, but you could have filed suit against the insurance company in small claims court. Once there, you could have presented all of the due diligence you worked hard to get to prove your valuation and let the judge decide how much your car was worth.
Dave Buckley
@@davidbuckley5100 small claims has a 5k limit and this case would exceed that so it’s not an option
i inherited a nice car from my dad, tip top shape, and low miles.. it got hit with a hail storm, and now the insurance company said its totalled.. they offer me a fair amount, but only if i give them the car.. otherwise, theyre just offering me half of that amount, and i get to keep my own car.. well isnt that nice.. i thought the whole point of comprehensive insurance was to get the car covered for such things.. isnt that what i paid for, and they agreed to? is this sort of thing legal? i wasnt paying inurance to sell the insurance company my car, when it came time to claim hail damage
I hear you. It can be frustrating when a seemingly fully operational and safe car is totaled. This happens a lot with older cars when the cost of repairs exceeds their actual value. That sounds like what's happening here. When a car is totaled and the insurance company pays you for the loss, you do have to transfer title/ownership to them. That's the "bargained for exchange" to make you whole. Some people who want to keep their cars and fix it, can opt for a "salvage" title, meaning the insurance company will pay the salvage value of the vehicle, and temporarily take ownership on paper and then issue you back a "salvage title". They will pay you less than it's actual value because you are being "made whole" by being paid for the damage AND keeping the car, which also has value. You'll have to do some math to see what makes the best business sense. Take the full totaled value or the salvage value. Good luck.
My car was damaged 6k it a 2012 fusion se. They say can't fix it they tried value the amount by just look at few pictures not see the car in person they try devalue the interior was not bad was good running car. They offer 3k when i just paid this car off this aug 9k
Great video!! So, Im anticipating my vehicle to be a total loss, but that's to be determined at the body shop tomorrow. Do I negotiate the value of my vehicle and set my number with my adjuster BEFORE or AFTER I take it in and its deemed a loss?
Let them make the offer, then if it's lower than yours, then let the negotiations begin!
My insurance (state farm) has 3 options to go by.. one of them being to replace the car for equal or greater value. Did I read that wrong or do they just automatically give cash values? I'm in Illinois for reference
That's a great deal if that's what it says. But you know what they say about something sounding too good to be true.
@@davidbuckley5100 I agree but than why does it state that under illinois law?
I am confused.
NADA gives me the highest value over KBB and Carfax. I thought NADA would be the lowest. I’m confused
Hi, I bought a car from a friend but he just said had an accident but I car fax the car and shows it was total loss and rebuilt and obviously is priced different there’s any way I can get my money back if was bought cash
I have a question: the comps used for my settlement where not even the same trim bed size and added features my truck and on the other side of the country ca resident and comps in Maryland value was set at 23,817, yet late last year trade in offer was 23,500 after it was inspected. Ins told me to submit comps and everything I could find that was an exact match in my are was 3k-5k more than comp vehicles used. I pointed this out and contacted a 3rd party appraiser which valued the truck @27,505 insurance value was 23,817 is this right? Am I going to have to go through an umpire for this?
If you haven't settled your case, ask to speak with the adjuster's supervisor. If your supporting information is more persuasive than theirs, you should be able to get a more accurate value.
Hey brother , Any idea on how I go about it if I (son) is not on the policy but still got hit driving my dads car?
I'm not sure what you are asking. Were you at fault?
wife provided grandaughter with financing of car. Three weeks after insurance was canceled, car was wrecked and totalled. Car purchased before our marriage.
$15,000 owed. I have been making payments for last year as we are not sure what to do.
I am 80 & wife is 77 yrs old.
What are our options her in Hobbs New Mexico? Car was a 2019 Nissan Rogue.
The other driver drove a pickup truck also did not have insurance. Both drivers recieved a police citation. Road was extra very slick with ice.
Richard R.
You don't say if the car was totaled as the result of someone else crashing into her. I assume that is not the case, so you are looking at a complete loss because there was no insurance. Regardless of the car's existence or non-existence, the financial obligation remains. I'm not licensed to practice in New Mexico, but Google "Consumer Rights Attorney Near Me" and you should see a number of local attorneys to call who can help you with your current circumstance.
Lol i was hit by someone who ran a stop sign. Their insurance totaled out my vehical with out ever looking at it. Worth 8k but inly being offered 4k. Note: the mechanics i brought it to say it isnt totaled. How do i get that reversed ?
I have a question. I was in accident that wasn't my fault but I had to file the claim with my insurance because the at fault partie's insurance was trying to blame me. My car was towed to a towing yard, I gave authorization to Statefarm to move it but I have my tag. It was moved to Copart in Spartanburg, SC. Since I have my tag does it mean its a total lose? They were saying it but it hasn't been confirmed.
You would have had to sign something in order for the insurance company to move the car. They move it because they don't want to keep paying the storage fees. They should eventually pay you the fair value for your car, though.
Is it worth getting a Total Loss Protection plan from the dealer (for a mint-condition used car) or did I just waste $799?
lmao you wasted 800 bucks
Auto-Owners is $20K less than NADA's delta of Low and Average retail. When I asked the adjuster why so much lower, she claimed all the insurance companies go by CCC One, and NADA is a no-factor.
I am glad to hear from you! In my experience, CCC can be on the low end of valuation. Is the vehicle you found through NADA geographically closer or do you have a better comp for the vehicle? If so, I would send what you found to Auto Owners and ask them to include the appropriate comps they find in their average of comp vehicles to better determine regional market price. I am not sure how accurately NADA’s average retail cost considers regional variation in pricing. So, instead of saying the average on NADA is 20k more than offer, you might consider sending the better comps you found and ask that they be averaged into the CCC valuation. Hopefully this makes sense. I also recommend that, if a property damage estimator did this total loss evaluation, that you speak with the property damage estimator and not the normal adjuster. Often times the normal adjusters have their marching orders and don’t realize what goes into the total loss evaluation at all. They just see the number from their PD team and defend that number. Hope that helps.
CCC One are currently under litigation for allegedly working with insurance companies by providing estimates thousands below market value saving companies thousands per claim.
Do I get a TRADE IN OR RETAIL Value for my vehicle? Thanks for the tip. THANK YOU!!!
Neither. The value of your car is determined by the NADA valuation. The adjuster's version of the NADA book does not use "trade-in" or "retail" terms. It's just one number based on all of the variables plugged in to determine the value.
Got retail prices that matched on nada, and I see cars valued my car the same. Well see all the comps are around here are similar as well +/-1000 Sucks a random deer ran into us that we never saw and now we'll see how underwater i am in few days. Had it s five whole days. Should have gotten gap but I planned on refinancing their bad rate a bit after purchase locally.
Well if I get what I paid for it plus tax and remove the 58 remaining months of the prorated extended warranty k got a decent shot at only losing out a few hundred bucks.
Crazy part is I couldn't have avoided. We literally seen the airbags at 65 and never saw the dear hit on her side. We were so damn confused cause it was wide open in front of us and clear Sky's.
I've been hit several times by deer, and my insurance never covered animal strikes.
@@gregpeterman1102 if you have comprehensive then that should have covered.
If just liability or collision then your correct they won't
I got rear-ended one month after I had gotten my hood and roof re-painted, and the car was declared a total loss (doesn't take much to reach that threshold with an old car). The adjuster with Progressive refused to budge upward on his settlement offer when I told him about the recent paint work. He claimed that painting was routine maintenance, not refurbishment, so it didn't count! I also pointed out that he didn't know if his comps were fair because he didn't have information about the conditions of the comps compared to the pre-crash condition of my car, but he dismissed that argument. He said that if I didn't like his number, I could hire my own appraiser at my expense. Instead, I filed a second claim with my own insurance company (State Farm) through the subrogation process. Their estimate was $450 higher than Progressive's offer, so I accepted it.
sounds optimistic
NADA?
Am I being duped?
Helpful, thanks! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼✅
If they total a car that can be repaired for 9K, they will NOT make the victim whole again. If they repair the car, I'll be closer to being made whole. I've spent a lot of money to keep my car pristine and invested in having the vehicle at 100%.
#TogetherEvery1AchievesMore TEAM‼️
Just like and subbed.
NADA BLOWS.
ALL THE MARKETING AND SALES ADS.
SO CLUTTERED UP WITH CLICK BAIT
Many auto body shops now will not repair a car unless it is an insurance job.
True.
NADA is not the be-all and end-all. It's a tool that insurance companies use. You can dispute that too. I used Edmunds to show that my particular (representative) vehicle was being purchased at a significantly higher price than the adjuster's valuation. The insurance company then told me that I was mistaken because their valuation was based on market value less depreciation...on a nine-year-old Subaru which is total BS. It took two weeks and three levels of management but I did get the valuation raised by $1600. I guess it depends on the company but this one was obviously not operating in good faith.