This is incredibly helpful for deciding on a good set up. I would definitely appreciate a separate vid on setting, I feel like there‘s a lot to learn about board specific setting
I love how psyched you are about hard moves and specific holds. I guess that is one of the most underrated key components to being such an excellent climber as you are. I have a home wall for about 10 years now but never been that psyched about it. Using it mainly when there is no other possibility to climb. I turned part of it into a moonboard mini and now finally I have "real hard projects". Well, I could have had real hard projects for 10 years, but I was never willing to put effort into trying hard stuff which I might never be able to climb. So, it's all mental! Thanks for this video!
Getting invested in your wall can be hard when it's just a solo mission for sure. Finding those little things that get you psyched, like moonboard mini is super valuable. And it's ok to not ever send a proj. It can suck, but its just a bit of climbing :). Enjoy the renewed psyche!
@@TomOHalloranAus Thank you! I'm really trying to figure out how you constructed the 20 deg section at the top as I would love to add something like that to my wall plans.
Love this vid Tom I find your stoke so relatable . I agree with you on the system boards I find they become really 2 dimensional and you are basically training the same movement patterns over and over again and it doesn't necessarily translate well to other types of climbing .
Again, great video. Also- as far as the flooding goes, we had a similar problem in our basement when I was growing up. What we did was take old bicycle tires (got a bunch free from a bike shop), cutt them in half into semicircles and laid them all onto the ground, such that the apex of the semicircle was pointing "upstream" from where the water was coming from. We then placed plywood over those for the "floor" which created a buffer, so the water could flow normally underneath the plywood floor hitting the bike tires almost like a waterfall would hit rocks on the way down, without getting the plywood floor wet. (Bonus, the floor was kind of bouncy because of the tires). I hope that makes sense, maybe something similar could be an option for you!
Love the psych Tom! I'd love a board like that. Keep the content coming always happy to see that you've put out another vid. when are you getting out to the hump of trouble project? That line looks amazing.
I love the concept of holds making for a full-body experience, slopers definitely help with that. I currently have a lot of small crimps and pinches and this makes me think I need to get some big ol slopers and volumes on there. Great video!!
For a cheap crash pad. Grab an old king sized doona cover go to Clark rubber or a couch manufacturer ask for their off cut foam. Fill the doona with foam then close the end off with a piece of rope. Cost will be next to nothing and works great
Amazing board, super well thought out!! Man.. this gets me so excited, can't wait for the build of my wall in a future house, definitely gonna add that 20 degree headboard!! For now, time for a psyched session on my 45 degree loft wall..
@@TomOHalloranAus i move with my pregnant girlfriend in a bigger apartment and I got my own room for training. I will use your wall as an inspiration for my wall, a bit smaller and only 30-35 degree but I’m really excited 😎 Thanks Tom and wish you a nice day 👍🏻
Thank you for sharing Tom! It’s so helpful to hear how you approach the holds you have and what you love about them. A video on setting would be superb. Two questions for you - I saw you used to have another wall on the left side but you removed it. Was it in the way? Is the wall clearance on the left and right ever a problem? Thinking of putting a board up with 0.5m space on either side to the walls and am a little concerned about it being too tight
0.5m is heaps and heaps of room! I would not stress about that. I currently have 5cm on the right side of the wall and will be putting in a wall on the left with very little room on that side too. You have plenty :)
Spray wall is really addicting, I wish more gym has it. Of course I dream of having my own home spray wall :D AND I really agree with sloper hold, they are great at teaching you to use your whole body. All my weaknesses and flaws just revealed themselves when I started to train on sloper.
Perfect timing. I'm about to rip my 40° and rebuild it into a 45 with a bigger kickboard indoors. No more weather excuses. It'll be time for a reset too. I'll be looking into some small volumes now. Also i know what you mean about setting all the holds in the same direction, i unfortunately did that on my last reset.
Another board video! I love those, I built a woody during covid times as well and seeing how others use theirs allows me to learn a thing or two hahaha Thanks for sharing! I'm wondering whats your take on mirrored/system wall vs spray setting?
@@TomOHalloranAus hopefully within the next century :,) love your channel, I'm about to build an amateur little 60-degree board in my basement so thanks for the inspiration!!
Tell me about it! I’ve heard it’s written and in the editing phase 🤞. Psyched you’re enjoying it all. Good luck with the build. I’m about to build my new one 😀
@TomOHalloranAus Hey mate! What an awesome video! Just discovered your channel as I was building my own home wall as well. I love the idea of the volumes. Do you have any recommendations for volumes? And could you give any suggestions for the sizes/steepness of the volumes if I have a 50 degree wall that's 8 feet wide x 12 feet high? Thanks!
I love the Stax Climbing volumes. Made in Perth, West Australia. They are the ones I have. I wouldn't go much bigger than about 500mm wide on a wall that big. Could end up being too imposing on the space, for my taste. And wouldn't look to have them come further out from the wall than what I say i the video. 200mm? Hope that helps.
Love it! What do you think about the ratio of wood/plastic holds for skin management, training etc? If you had to re do would you go more wood? More plastic?
I don't think about the holds in terms of skin management. Very rare the skin is that destroyed that you can climb on these plastic holds. More about the types of holds each material produces. I like the variation of it all :)
Hey Tom. Im building a mini moonboard but with 60cm of extension at each side. Also 60cm at the top. And i will put more holds between the mini moon holds and also some volumes. I would like to know how much it took the process of build it since the first day😊
There’s so many variables in how long it takes. How simple the framing is, space your working, sanding, gap filling, painting etc etc. Mine was perhaps 30hrs + doing it all myself
Currently thinking about hold design for a future adjustable woody so I found this very useful. I’ve noticed a lot of your Beastmaker holds aren’t available on their website - Are they very old or limited runs? Your psyche and passion for climbing evident as always - appreciate your vid’s
They’re a few years old. Perhaps from the older series? Glad you got something out of it 😀 and really appreciate your kind words 🙏. Have fun with the new board design and build!!
I'd love to see a video on setting as well! What are the holds you have that sit on the top of the volume? I have a 40 degree board and have struggled finding holds to use on the top of my volumes as they often turn into complete jugs.
Definitely could. You’d just need holds that you can screw on, rather than bolt on. There are some bolt to screw adapter inserts you can use apparently, but I’ve not seen them
The holds are a collections I’ve been putting together for nearly 20 years. Slow and steady. Few holds here and there over that time. There’s some good hold packs you can buy. Buying some key, individual centre piece holds is nice as well. Stokt app is great for keeping a catalog of your boulders, that’s what I use
Amazing and insightful video as always. What do you think is better, having a permanent hold set up or periodically moving the holds around on your board?
Hi Tom, great content as always! I was wondering if you had any tips about saving money on climbing holds. I'm planning on building a wall in my next place in a few months time, and my student income is a big factor for me. I know that DIY wooden holds is a good option and is one I'm considering. Otherwise, I've been watching gumtree, fb marketplace etc. like a hawk for cheap secondhand holds. Hoping I'll accumulate enough before build time, but I'm doubtful. Beyond these things, any tips? Maybe particular manufacturers or somesuch? Cheers!
Honestly theres not much more to it than what you’re doing. You may be lucky a snag someone who looking to quickly off load, but they are rare and competitive marketplaces haha. I’ve heard some hold manufacturers may have factory seconds, but I’ve never seen it. Good luck on the hunt. I feel like sourcing holds is part of the game that makes setting up your own board/training space so good 😀
What are your wooden holds!! So hard to get high quality wooden holds in Australia. I’m looking for options but it seems like importing from overseas for ridiculous prices. I would love those huge wooden ones
Beastmakers. They are pricey, but they are awesome and I have zero regrets. Hurt once, buy the holds you like, start with a few and just build it up. This is literally decades of collecting holds. Your board and future self will thank you :)
@@TomOHalloranAus hey one more question if you don’t mind. Your volumes you said you bought them if so from here in aus? (I’m syd). If it was a private buy round about how big are they? Ur board looks awesome I’m trying to get mine like yours
Volumes are Stax Volumes. They’re from Perth and are awesome! Biggest volume is 550mm triangle. Comes out from the wall about 150mm. I made a board room tour video which goes into a bit more details and something’s to think about when buying them. They’re so awesome to have
Great video! You always get me so psyched go climbing. Check out magnus's interview on nugget climbing where he talks about naming videos, you might find it useful 😊
If I were you I’d do away with the kick board. All you’re doing is negating the angle of your board and effectively reducing the length. I feel it’s also more “real world” to have the angle go all the way down to the ground. In my experience you rarely come across a “kick board” in the wild. It’s actually possible to make a removable kickboard with minimal fuss. I use it for warming up to reduce the angle then remove it when ready. Btw love the set up!
I actually really like having the kickboard. I like being able to make moves that feel a little less steep and it diversifies the movement on the board. Not all just one angle. I like your idea of the removable kickboard. Nice to be able to swap it in and out when you want. Not thought of that one before
This is incredibly helpful for deciding on a good set up. I would definitely appreciate a separate vid on setting, I feel like there‘s a lot to learn about board specific setting
there's a lot that goes into it for sure! I'm really keen to make one soon
I love how psyched you are about hard moves and specific holds. I guess that is one of the most underrated key components to being such an excellent climber as you are.
I have a home wall for about 10 years now but never been that psyched about it. Using it mainly when there is no other possibility to climb. I turned part of it into a moonboard mini and now finally I have "real hard projects". Well, I could have had real hard projects for 10 years, but I was never willing to put effort into trying hard stuff which I might never be able to climb. So, it's all mental!
Thanks for this video!
Getting invested in your wall can be hard when it's just a solo mission for sure. Finding those little things that get you psyched, like moonboard mini is super valuable. And it's ok to not ever send a proj. It can suck, but its just a bit of climbing :). Enjoy the renewed psyche!
Weirdly one of the best climbing vids I’ve ever watched. Thank you!
Haha thanks. Keen to make a new one soon. After moving house we've set up a whole new area and got a few more things going on :)
definitely film a reset of your wall when you choose to do that! also check out cornerstone climbing holds!
will do!
I would really love to see a construction video as this is the type of wall I’m planning on building. Such a helpful video!
I'll see what I can do. I have a bit of footage from the build :)
@@TomOHalloranAus Thank you! I'm really trying to figure out how you constructed the 20 deg section at the top as I would love to add something like that to my wall plans.
Love this video! So much thought gone into your board. I believe design is almost half of the fun of the build process.
The usability of a board is made or lost in the planning and design for sure. I loved the process!
Love this vid Tom I find your stoke so relatable . I agree with you on the system boards I find they become really 2 dimensional and you are basically training the same movement patterns over and over again and it doesn't necessarily translate well to other types of climbing .
yep, i love the diversity you can get out of a woody. so much fun and translatable
This mans enthousiasm could get any single person to start climbing
haha thanks! it is a fun thing to do :)
I realy like the idea of putting smal volumes on your homewall to increase versatility. I think i do that to my own wall, two. Thanks for that!
They are awesome! Absolutely no regrets on having them. They add so much
Again, great video. Also- as far as the flooding goes, we had a similar problem in our basement when I was growing up. What we did was take old bicycle tires (got a bunch free from a bike shop), cutt them in half into semicircles and laid them all onto the ground, such that the apex of the semicircle was pointing "upstream" from where the water was coming from. We then placed plywood over those for the "floor" which created a buffer, so the water could flow normally underneath the plywood floor hitting the bike tires almost like a waterfall would hit rocks on the way down, without getting the plywood floor wet. (Bonus, the floor was kind of bouncy because of the tires). I hope that makes sense, maybe something similar could be an option for you!
Thanks for the idea. We are definitely exploring all possibilities to fix it
I tell so many people that your home wall is my favorite of all time. SO much inspo for when I inevitably do my own. Thanks man :)
Haha wow, that's pretty cool. Definitely make your own wall! It's so fun to have your own space.
Love the psych Tom! I'd love a board like that. Keep the content coming always happy to see that you've put out another vid. when are you getting out to the hump of trouble project? That line looks amazing.
Thanks, psyched you're psyched :). Haven't been on it in a while. The weather has been so bad it's hardly been climbable. Need the rain to stop!
I love the concept of holds making for a full-body experience, slopers definitely help with that. I currently have a lot of small crimps and pinches and this makes me think I need to get some big ol slopers and volumes on there. Great video!!
They are definitely worthwhile. I think the volumes can do a good deal of the full body as well. The combination 🤌. Have fun with the upgrade 😀✌️
For a cheap crash pad. Grab an old king sized doona cover go to Clark rubber or a couch manufacturer ask for their off cut foam. Fill the doona with foam then close the end off with a piece of rope. Cost will be next to nothing and works great
Haha cool. True climber style!
Amazing board, super well thought out!! Man.. this gets me so excited, can't wait for the build of my wall in a future house, definitely gonna add that 20 degree headboard!! For now, time for a psyched session on my 45 degree loft wall..
Glad you liked the vid and got some psyche. Give the session full beans 💪💪
In april i build my new climbing wall, thank you for the inspiration 😎👍🏻
Nice one! That'll be really cool. Nothing beats having your own space. Enjoy
@@TomOHalloranAus i move with my pregnant girlfriend in a bigger apartment and I got my own room for training. I will use your wall as an inspiration for my wall, a bit smaller and only 30-35 degree but I’m really excited 😎
Thanks Tom and wish you a nice day 👍🏻
Super cool board. Really appreciate the variety of boards and I can't wait to give one a try. It's so unique, no 2 boards are alike. Great video!
Board climbing is so much fun for sure. And each one, as you say, has it's own personalty. It's fun to get a aquatinted with each
Away from my home board for awhile, psyched for a re-set when I get back...
Sweet! Resets are fun!
A setting video would be great. Also if you could talk about why no feet on the wood holds and how you maybe compensate. Thanks!
will do! just a matter of having enough jib feet spread around
Thank you for sharing Tom! It’s so helpful to hear how you approach the holds you have and what you love about them. A video on setting would be superb.
Two questions for you - I saw you used to have another wall on the left side but you removed it. Was it in the way?
Is the wall clearance on the left and right ever a problem? Thinking of putting a board up with 0.5m space on either side to the walls and am a little concerned about it being too tight
0.5m is heaps and heaps of room! I would not stress about that. I currently have 5cm on the right side of the wall and will be putting in a wall on the left with very little room on that side too. You have plenty :)
Spray wall is really addicting, I wish more gym has it. Of course I dream of having my own home spray wall :D AND I really agree with sloper hold, they are great at teaching you to use your whole body. All my weaknesses and flaws just revealed themselves when I started to train on sloper.
Haha yep, they will very quickly expose those issues haha. But oh so fun!
This channel is gold, im hooked.
Haha thanks, psyched you like it Henry 😀
Perfect timing. I'm about to rip my 40° and rebuild it into a 45 with a bigger kickboard indoors. No more weather excuses. It'll be time for a reset too.
I'll be looking into some small volumes now. Also i know what you mean about setting all the holds in the same direction, i unfortunately did that on my last reset.
ahhh perfect. sounds like a great update for you! no more excuses! the volumes are 100% worth it. the hold arrangement is easy to do :)
@@TomOHalloranAus btw where did you buy your volumes from? I'll also in Australia, and I'm finding them hard to track down.
Stax volumes. link in the description to their page
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks
Another board video! I love those, I built a woody during covid times as well and seeing how others use theirs allows me to learn a thing or two hahaha Thanks for sharing! I'm wondering whats your take on mirrored/system wall vs spray setting?
mirrored vs spray wall is definitely a topic for a future vid! glad you got something out of the vid :)
Super sick board!
I like it :)
Mating habits of the common draccus!! youre a rothfuss fan :)
Love it. But when is book three coming!!
@@TomOHalloranAus hopefully within the next century :,) love your channel, I'm about to build an amateur little 60-degree board in my basement so thanks for the inspiration!!
Tell me about it! I’ve heard it’s written and in the editing phase 🤞.
Psyched you’re enjoying it all. Good luck with the build. I’m about to build my new one 😀
@@samgruber7172 have fun :)
Awesome video
Thanks Craig. Psyched you liked it ✌️
@TomOHalloranAus Hey mate! What an awesome video! Just discovered your channel as I was building my own home wall as well. I love the idea of the volumes. Do you have any recommendations for volumes? And could you give any suggestions for the sizes/steepness of the volumes if I have a 50 degree wall that's 8 feet wide x 12 feet high? Thanks!
I love the Stax Climbing volumes. Made in Perth, West Australia. They are the ones I have. I wouldn't go much bigger than about 500mm wide on a wall that big. Could end up being too imposing on the space, for my taste. And wouldn't look to have them come further out from the wall than what I say i the video. 200mm? Hope that helps.
keen on a video about setting for the board
Very keen to make one!
Love it! What do you think about the ratio of wood/plastic holds for skin management, training etc? If you had to re do would you go more wood? More plastic?
I don't think about the holds in terms of skin management. Very rare the skin is that destroyed that you can climb on these plastic holds. More about the types of holds each material produces. I like the variation of it all :)
Hey Tom. Im building a mini moonboard but with 60cm of extension at each side. Also 60cm at the top. And i will put more holds between the mini moon holds and also some volumes. I would like to know how much it took the process of build it since the first day😊
How much time*
There’s so many variables in how long it takes. How simple the framing is, space your working, sanding, gap filling, painting etc etc. Mine was perhaps 30hrs + doing it all myself
Currently thinking about hold design for a future adjustable woody so I found this very useful. I’ve noticed a lot of your Beastmaker holds aren’t available on their website - Are they very old or limited runs? Your psyche and passion for climbing evident as always - appreciate your vid’s
They’re a few years old. Perhaps from the older series? Glad you got something out of it 😀 and really appreciate your kind words 🙏. Have fun with the new board design and build!!
would love to see a setting video!
very keen to make one :)
I'd love to see a video on setting as well!
What are the holds you have that sit on the top of the volume? I have a 40 degree board and have struggled finding holds to use on the top of my volumes as they often turn into complete jugs.
I'm definitely going to make that one :). The brown slope is Uncarved Bloc, some of the others are @unleashedclimbing feet.
could you accomplish this type of board only using screws and not needing the t nut instillation
Definitely could. You’d just need holds that you can screw on, rather than bolt on. There are some bolt to screw adapter inserts you can use apparently, but I’ve not seen them
Is there any app where I can see your problems? I'm looking to build something similar, did you bought some holds pack or are they bought separately?
The holds are a collections I’ve been putting together for nearly 20 years. Slow and steady. Few holds here and there over that time. There’s some good hold packs you can buy. Buying some key, individual centre piece holds is nice as well.
Stokt app is great for keeping a catalog of your boulders, that’s what I use
Amazing and insightful video as always. What do you think is better, having a permanent hold set up or periodically moving the holds around on your board?
Permanent set up, then move everything every 1-2 years. I'll go into more details in a setting vid :)
Hi Tom, great content as always! I was wondering if you had any tips about saving money on climbing holds. I'm planning on building a wall in my next place in a few months time, and my student income is a big factor for me. I know that DIY wooden holds is a good option and is one I'm considering. Otherwise, I've been watching gumtree, fb marketplace etc. like a hawk for cheap secondhand holds. Hoping I'll accumulate enough before build time, but I'm doubtful. Beyond these things, any tips? Maybe particular manufacturers or somesuch? Cheers!
Honestly theres not much more to it than what you’re doing. You may be lucky a snag someone who looking to quickly off load, but they are rare and competitive marketplaces haha. I’ve heard some hold manufacturers may have factory seconds, but I’ve never seen it. Good luck on the hunt. I feel like sourcing holds is part of the game that makes setting up your own board/training space so good 😀
Awesome video! What model / line of rubber holds are the big yellow ones?
The Drop is the name of the line. I love them
What are your wooden holds!! So hard to get high quality wooden holds in Australia. I’m looking for options but it seems like importing from overseas for ridiculous prices. I would love those huge wooden ones
Beastmakers. They are pricey, but they are awesome and I have zero regrets. Hurt once, buy the holds you like, start with a few and just build it up. This is literally decades of collecting holds. Your board and future self will thank you :)
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks for the reply
@@TomOHalloranAus hey one more question if you don’t mind. Your volumes you said you bought them if so from here in aus? (I’m syd). If it was a private buy round about how big are they? Ur board looks awesome I’m trying to get mine like yours
Volumes are Stax Volumes. They’re from Perth and are awesome! Biggest volume is 550mm triangle. Comes out from the wall about 150mm. I made a board room tour video which goes into a bit more details and something’s to think about when buying them. They’re so awesome to have
Great wall. Do you share some of your boulder problems via some app?
Have them saved on the Stokt app. Share vids of them here and in my Instagram every now and then
Great video! You always get me so psyched go climbing. Check out magnus's interview on nugget climbing where he talks about naming videos, you might find it useful 😊
That was a great chat for sure. Really enjoyed it
I wish I could show mine 😁
Maybe orchids on the climbing wall addition?
@@TomOHalloranAus😁 I made a few videos I you want I can post a link
What kind of holds are you looking to add Tom?
Not fully certain yet, but I have an itch for something new haha
@@TomOHalloranAus I have a load of cosmetic seconds coming in soon so i will let you know when they land.
@@unleashedclimbing6598 incredible, thanks mate :)
What do you do for work?
Rope access and work for a local climbing importer/store
@@TomOHalloranAus How does one get into rope access?
IRATA training course
Are you an olympian as you’ve never mentioned it before
Yep, went to Tokyo last year
so much froth
it's board climbing! what's not to love :)!!
If I were you I’d do away with the kick board. All you’re doing is negating the angle of your board and effectively reducing the length. I feel it’s also more “real world” to have the angle go all the way down to the ground. In my experience you rarely come across a “kick board” in the wild. It’s actually possible to make a removable kickboard with minimal fuss. I use it for warming up to reduce the angle then remove it when ready. Btw love the set up!
I actually really like having the kickboard. I like being able to make moves that feel a little less steep and it diversifies the movement on the board. Not all just one angle. I like your idea of the removable kickboard. Nice to be able to swap it in and out when you want. Not thought of that one before