I spent 5 minutes wondering if closing off that cavity could cause rust issues. Then I realized we’re talking about aluminum. Have you considered not posting so early in the morning haha? Great video, keep it up
aluminum can still corrode just takes a bit longer, however when aluminium does corrode it really bad lost of pitting making corroded parts useless and should really be mutilated so others don't use a corroded part. maybe spraying the interior with a amuminulm specific weldable corrosion inhibiting paint, of ffs keep galluim away from you diff whults you expose the bare metal for paint prep otherwise say goodbye to you diff housing, gallium-induced structural failure is no joke
Christmas has come early! Two Napp Motorsport vidoes in a week!! I think I may have to do this to my diff as I track the car (occasionally). Nice tutorial with clear simple steps.
Its not like an overreinforcement? I mean, you solve the notch problem but i think that is more that needs to be done. If you just weld that weak point, shouldn't be that equally strong? Or did i miss something. Amazing video btw, great work, cheers from Spain mate.
We break them bumpdrafting in Spec Miata races. Its exciting because then the axle falls out and the car loses drive and then the car gets punted off the track.
You pre-heat with Napp Gas (that's what I heard at 1st☺). Can you get 220v service at your house? I've got it for my compressor... Wife won't let me buy a TIG unit...
Very nice video again! Just curious, mazda put in the 1 fail safe to prevent the driver side from breaking, shouldnt we reinforce that one aswell? Now the "dangerous side", that would potentially run your diff into the ground is the weak point. Havent heard of anyone ever breaking the driver side though. Still need to do this on my car as well
great video as always i got my diff reinforced for my 400hp car and it hasnt let me down i do have 2 questions though, only after getting my carrier welded did i learn that the ford 8.8 diff is a common alternative option. is there much strength difference? is it just a convenience thing? whats the benefit of going with the ford unit over welding some plates to the existing factory carrier also what sort of power does the reinforcement allow? 400 seems fine in my case but do you know if theyre viable at higher numbers? cheers
I spent 5 minutes wondering if closing off that cavity could cause rust issues. Then I realized we’re talking about aluminum. Have you considered not posting so early in the morning haha? Great video, keep it up
Supposed to have coffee while you watch! Haha
aluminum can still corrode just takes a bit longer, however when aluminium does corrode it really bad lost of pitting making corroded parts useless and should really be mutilated so others don't use a corroded part. maybe spraying the interior with a amuminulm specific weldable corrosion inhibiting paint, of ffs keep galluim away from you diff whults you expose the bare metal for paint prep otherwise say goodbye to you diff housing, gallium-induced structural failure is no joke
Great video, thanks. I will be doing this for someone that is dropping an Acura V6 into his Miata. He does AutoX and track.
Nice! That should be a cool swap.
Had never heard that this was an issue - thanks for the education ---
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
FYI, if you're hit from the front hard enough, it'll break the diff arm too. An Altima at 45mph will do it.
Big Altima energy
Christmas has come early! Two Napp Motorsport vidoes in a week!! I think I may have to do this to my diff as I track the car (occasionally). Nice tutorial with clear simple steps.
Haha I'm just going to post as I film things now. Way easier than schedule.
One day I'll have space to store and work on Miata and I'll use all the knowledge you shared to work on it, so thanks a lot in advance!
Happy to help!
Its not like an overreinforcement? I mean, you solve the notch problem but i think that is more that needs to be done. If you just weld that weak point, shouldn't be that equally strong? Or did i miss something. Amazing video btw, great work, cheers from Spain mate.
I've heard both sides are prone to breaking, and the one side is not even notched.
We break them bumpdrafting in Spec Miata races. Its exciting because then the axle falls out and the car loses drive and then the car gets punted off the track.
lol I believe it
Two napp videos in one week is it my birthday?
It might as well be!
had to do mine after i was a but too enthusiastic removing my bushings. bit of 5mm later and she was good to go
I haven't fixed one that's broken yet, but I'd like to try my hand at it.
Keep up the good work
Thanks!
You pre-heat with Napp Gas (that's what I heard at 1st☺). Can you get 220v service at your house? I've got it for my compressor... Wife won't let me buy a TIG unit...
I haven’t really needed 220. If I do, I have the welder at the shop that is wired into 220.
Great video and service
Thank you very much!
So about 1/3 of the diff housings I have repaired have snapped on the side opposite of the notches.
Interesting, I guess I'll start doing both sides!
Very nice video again! Just curious, mazda put in the 1 fail safe to prevent the driver side from breaking, shouldnt we reinforce that one aswell? Now the "dangerous side", that would potentially run your diff into the ground is the weak point. Havent heard of anyone ever breaking the driver side though. Still need to do this on my car as well
Apparently that’s an issue regardless, so I think I’ll make it my standard moving forward.
I need to do this.
I'm surprised you haven't!
great video as always
i got my diff reinforced for my 400hp car and it hasnt let me down
i do have 2 questions though, only after getting my carrier welded did i learn that the ford 8.8 diff is a common alternative option. is there much strength difference? is it just a convenience thing? whats the benefit of going with the ford unit over welding some plates to the existing factory carrier
also what sort of power does the reinforcement allow? 400 seems fine in my case but do you know if theyre viable at higher numbers?
cheers
I would say 400 is still the safe ceiling as the internals go first. I don't know enough about the 8.8 to be able to give any insight on it.
Maybe a dumb question as I haven't been underneath a Miata in a few years but can you do this with the diff still in the car?
No, it has to come out.
what about using a rx-7 diff aluminium case which is a lot more beefy ? #thecarpassionchannel
They're hard to find, but they're a good option.
What filler rod are you using for this?
Can’t remember honestly. Same one I use for all aluminum that I weld. I think ER5356