turns out that is exactly the way to do it. I have made a suggestion to the company to include a diagram with the product in the box to help folks avoid that mistake. Cheers!
That's exactly what my comment was going to be! Of course, if you want to remove it before the water goes down there would be a problem ... but, then again, why would you want to remove it if the water was still up? ...Just sayin'.
Don't need the gate but love how you require the companies to give viewers discounts to show their products. Side note, your videos have helped me with countless projects, even if it's a small tip it can help in a big way.
Thanks! I designed and built my home not to flood. However developers and politicians got me. We have 3 inches of water in our home. I am glad you mentioned that they have systems for garage dorrs as well. I fugure between this and lfex seal I will be able to endure.
I like it alot. Baby/animal gate is a secondary plus! Not bad. U never know when u can actually get flooded. They called it a thousand year flood and many houses were wrecked by a flood they never had before..
I believe that would have been better installed the other way around, so that any pressure that the water exerts on the gate would compress the seals instead of pushing the seal apart.
The thing about floods - water finds its way in the tiniest cracks - so if the door sill isn't sealed or the walls aren't sealed, you'll still get water (maybe less with this door, but if it's around for hours it will seep in)
What about where water seeps in from where the wall is attached to the foundation? I think this is an awesome idea and it might prevent debris from entering the home during a flood but I’m skeptical about keeping the water out.
In this case there should be Philips head slot on the machine screw though, with a threaded hole you want the driver to CAM out so that you don't over tighten and warp the threads on the bolt or hole and will never loosen or thread again. On the door plates I agree they should be Robertson.
@Steve Main , you say "with a threaded hole you want the driver to CAM out so that you don't over tighten...". 'CAMing out' is kinda bad. BTW, I don't mean totally stripping out the screw head. I'm just talking about the driver bit spinning out of the screw head a little when applying too much rotational force. To solve over tightening problem, maybe using a driver with a properly set clutch would be a better solution. And aligning the screw properly the first time. A correct size driver bit is imperative, it must mate with the fastener as tightly as possible. 'CAMing out' actually distorts the fastener head slot which in turn causes a misalignment with the driver bit, raising the possibility stripping out the fastener when trying to remove or reattach it. Why am I saying this, only because I have 40 years of furniture & machine building experience, including being the head of a Sample Shop Department for 16 years, helping design & troubleshoot metal & wood furniture. I have to admit though, I have a bad attitude toward the Robertson screw ... but only because I'm American. ;-)
@@GNUOYEEL The Phillips head screw is actually engineered to CAM out. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam_out I get that it's not ideal to continue to CAM out on the head of a screw but that just takes common sense that you are trying to over tighten the screw so STOP!!! If a machine screw requires that much torque that you are CAMing out either the screw is cross threaded, you are over tightening it, your material is not lined up properly, or your bit is rounded over. People think everything has to be farmer tight so it wont come apart but that's what loc tight is for if required. It just makes sense on a machined screw that you can't over tighten it .. Sure your method of making sure you set the clutch right on your drill is a great thought and I agree but this leaves it up to the end users to make sure their equipment is set perfect every time. I don't think that's going to happen and most users will just use their impact for everything. So in my opinion It would make more sense that the head is always Philips because you can't trust users to know what they are always. If you were in a factory and on an assembly line where all day all you do is install the same screws at the same torque setting it makes sense. If we are being super technical if you CAM out a screw then you over tightened it and should throw out the screw and replace it, basically you damaged it and have no one to blame but yourself if you don't replace it and have issues in the future. The CAM out damage to the screw head will only be in the direction you are going at that time (normally tightening it). If you reverse it the screw will not have cam out damage the opposite direction so you can still remove the screw. Replace the screw and set your clutch to a lower setting and figure out what happened. Also I know a lot of machine screws can come with a hex head that almost always prevents cam out so this is counter to my statement but if think about it those hex screws are not engineered to be installed with an impact or drill. Normally in most shops I have seen you use hand tools to fasten them so that you don't over tighten them and use loc tight when appropriate. NOW what I would love to see is a Robertson head screw that allows a CAM out on tightening but no CAM out on loosening. That would be smart! Cause CAM out on a screw when trying to take off a stuck screw is the worst!!!
What about a moon shaped concrete wall 10-20yards from the house. The width/length of the house. Would that prevent a rush of water? I'm buying a house in Texas that flooded during Harvey from the stream on property. Trying to see what my options are. I love the place and it's been redone and don't want to have to redo it myself
i live in the keys and i’m super interested in this, as i haven’t gotten around to putting the house on stilts quite yet. i’d probably go one step further and put some thin rubber gasket stripping between the tracks and the door frames...
If you have floods every 4 to 6 years, it isn't very smart to build there and the government probably shouldn't allow it or enforce some precautions in the design... If you have floods every year, it's downright stupid to build there, move, burn the house down if you have good insurance, get out of there.
We have a basement stairwell with a drain. When it rains too hard the drain gets overwhelmed and we have a pool party in the basement. I'm wondering if this would work between the door and the storm door.
Thanks so much for your video. I have question for your previous video illustrating flooring. For the underpad you recommended for Vinyl Flooring, is it Mass Loaded Vinyl or other material?
Why not install those channels with the gasket toward the inside of the house? That way the weight of the water will push that plate into the gasket, making a tighter seal.
That flood gate really looks kind of flimsy, I don't think it would tolerate a couple of feet of water. In my country we DIY these. You just need some u-shaped steel rails, a 1 inch thick piece of wood (or less depending on the width of the door) as q flood gate that would just fit the space with some old bike tyre rubber to improvise a sort of seal so the water won't come in. Those can resist a LOT of water and once placed correctly can resist several days with no water comming in. Plus no shipping and much cheaper.
What if the flood is just rising/standing water? Water has nowhere to go for awhile when that happens. Would it slowly leak into the house until it eventually levels out?
If you lived in a flood zone you would know that last minute bandages aren’t going to save squat. FYI: the electricity goes out first so the shop vac has no power. Advertise proactive elevation if you want to address flooding! A baby gate will not save your foundation’s support, keep the trees from falling over onto the house when they lose support or rescue the residents who are trapped inside.
Should the seal not go to the inside and you tighten it up from the outside? Right now the way you have it you are replying on 3-4 bolts to hold the steel against the seal strip. If water presses on the steel it will try to break the seal and the bolts SHOULD stop it.. But if you installed it the other way the bolts will keep it sealed with gentle force on it but the force of the water out side forcing in would press the steel against the seal strip no? the more water the tighter it will press against the seals EDIT: NM just saw another users comment that said the exact same thing!! Seems this is the way to install it
Hi, I have a crawl space that occasionally floods. Do you happen to know if they can customize the size to accommodate a crawlspace entrance which is about 2' x 2'? Thanks for the input. Love you videos!
thanks for this video, but storm door is much better, this shield is to low, leave big gap between door and metal shield, water will go in from top gap if rains big.
I can see the benefit of this product used to prevent damage from floating debris during a flood but as a water deterrent, can't see how it would divert water any more than your door on your house.
So, if you go to the link in the description, there's no obvious product information. Typing "flood" or "flooding" into their search box doesn't get you anything, either. So I went to Google and searched on "flooding tmsoundproofing.com" which got me to an (apparently hidden) product page for "Flood Barrier Shield" that sort of looks like the right product, but has, in giant letters, "This Product is Currently Unavailable Through Our Site."
I’m sure it doesn’t matter since they are just handles, but funny they labeled them each 1 and 2, then marked the main plate 1 and 2 and they got put on backwards :3
Just saying, if your house is flooding by 6 inches above a door sil every 4 to 6 years, then I recommend getting a new house instead of trying to midigate it with clumsy door contraptions...
This is not free flood solutions since the water will always find the way through the hole in your house such as toilet, however, this is can be solution to prevent dirty water from outside.
Looks good to protect from rising water levels, but in a hurricane the doors will get slammed with heavy rains, so the rainwater will just run off the door and build up between the door and this shield..
Why not just keep the door closed? Brace it with some 2x4 on the inside. If you have water up to the door, I'm not so sure that plate will save you anyway.
a) the metal plate would only be installed ahead of natural disasters, so not up for very long and b) if you are prone to tripping over 3 foot tall barriers i think you have bigger problems.
The main issue caused by flooding is not wet floors or walls. It is sewer system that stops working for long period of time. What comes after that? Spread of bacteria and diseases. So never by a house in most parts of Texas, Louisiana , Florida, Georgia, Carolinas and along the eastern coast up to Canada border. Next time you want to buy a house add “flooding” to your search criteria like “flooding in Louisville, KY” for example.
If that were the case, there would be whole states that have no residents. Then the non flood zone residents would be pissed that everyone’s there driving up home prices.
You're not wrong, and he says exactly that. The point of this product is not that NO water will enter your house, it's that LESS water will enter your house.
This man is the dad everyone wished they had growing up
I'm more than proud & happy with the dad I have ❤
He said his son Max reminds of himself when he was younger and more frustrating. LOL Poor Max
Yeah he got you a discount but when you use it he gets paid
Where to buy this? From. Philippines
Nah, not everyone.. I had a decent dad.
I'm sorry you're a weak manlet but at least you know that it was down to your absent father figure.
If you install this the other way around the weight of the water will help press the sheet into into rubber seal.
I came here to say this. I hope you get more likes and your comment goes higher.
very good comment maybe it should be that way afterall there was NO instructions included
turns out that is exactly the way to do it. I have made a suggestion to the company to include a diagram with the product in the box to help folks avoid that mistake. Cheers!
That's exactly what my comment was going to be! Of course, if you want to remove it before the water goes down there would be a problem ... but, then again, why would you want to remove it if the water was still up? ...Just sayin'.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY. Can you get me the info on the company with the flood gates. Thank you
Don't need the gate but love how you require the companies to give viewers discounts to show their products.
Side note, your videos have helped me with countless projects, even if it's a small tip it can help in a big way.
I like how they take the time to number the handles and plates with matching 1 and 2 and you swap them :)
Fix that siding on the jamb side when you take that thing off. 👍
I'm still waiting for you to end the video with "and remember, if the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy".
Red Green actually has a youtube channel, and it's been updating regularly XD
if only i had put handiness before handsomeness, i wouldn’t be the only one fixing up our house now...
He's used it a few times before. I just saw him say it while he was roofing his A to Z shed project.
Thanks! I designed and built my home not to flood. However developers and politicians got me. We have 3 inches of water in our home. I am glad you mentioned that they have systems for garage dorrs as well. I fugure between this and lfex seal I will be able to endure.
I like it alot. Baby/animal gate is a secondary plus! Not bad. U never know when u can actually get flooded. They called it a thousand year flood and many houses were wrecked by a flood they never had before..
I believe that would have been better installed the other way around, so that any pressure that the water exerts on the gate would compress the seals instead of pushing the seal apart.
The "baby gate" comment almost made me wake my daughter from lol... (I'm watching with headphones as I rock her to sleep.)
The thing about floods - water finds its way in the tiniest cracks - so if the door sill isn't sealed or the walls aren't sealed, you'll still get water (maybe less with this door, but if it's around for hours it will seep in)
Wow super simple but functional solution!
What about where water seeps in from where the wall is attached to the foundation? I think this is an awesome idea and it might prevent debris from entering the home during a flood but I’m skeptical about keeping the water out.
Exactly my thought, this is useless! It will only work with brick houses.
@@spooky3669 Yeo, water will always get in. This item is garbage.
You despise Phillips screws well I hate flat head that were all in my 70s house . I vote for all star bits or square bits
I'm with ya!
Thank you for sacrificing for us and patching it back up!
These have been in use in flood prone areas like Venice and Hong Kong for awhile. Nice to know now there is a residential option.
5:30 "Makes a hell of a baby gate too!"
That's a cool product. Can you also review the Dam Easy Flood Barrier the yellow and blue barrier?
Totally don’t need this where I am but I really love the idea of it. I kind of want to get one just because you did!
As a fellow Canadian, I know about Robertson screws and they are the best!
Cheers!
In this case there should be Philips head slot on the machine screw though, with a threaded hole you want the driver to CAM out so that you don't over tighten and warp the threads on the bolt or hole and will never loosen or thread again. On the door plates I agree they should be Robertson.
I'm waiting for a guy named "Philips" to come along and disagree with you.... ;-)
@Steve Main , you say "with a threaded hole you want the driver to CAM out so that you don't over tighten...". 'CAMing out' is kinda bad. BTW, I don't mean totally stripping out the screw head. I'm just talking about the driver bit spinning out of the screw head a little when applying too much rotational force.
To solve over tightening problem, maybe using a driver with a properly set clutch would be a better solution. And aligning the screw properly the first time.
A correct size driver bit is imperative, it must mate with the fastener as tightly as possible. 'CAMing out' actually distorts the fastener head slot which in turn causes a misalignment with the driver bit, raising the possibility stripping out the fastener when trying to remove or reattach it.
Why am I saying this, only because I have 40 years of furniture & machine building experience, including being the head of a Sample Shop Department for 16 years, helping design & troubleshoot metal & wood furniture.
I have to admit though, I have a bad attitude toward the Robertson screw ... but only because I'm American. ;-)
@@GNUOYEEL The Phillips head screw is actually engineered to CAM out. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam_out I get that it's not ideal to continue to CAM out on the head of a screw but that just takes common sense that you are trying to over tighten the screw so STOP!!! If a machine screw requires that much torque that you are CAMing out either the screw is cross threaded, you are over tightening it, your material is not lined up properly, or your bit is rounded over. People think everything has to be farmer tight so it wont come apart but that's what loc tight is for if required. It just makes sense on a machined screw that you can't over tighten it .. Sure your method of making sure you set the clutch right on your drill is a great thought and I agree but this leaves it up to the end users to make sure their equipment is set perfect every time. I don't think that's going to happen and most users will just use their impact for everything. So in my opinion It would make more sense that the head is always Philips because you can't trust users to know what they are always. If you were in a factory and on an assembly line where all day all you do is install the same screws at the same torque setting it makes sense.
If we are being super technical if you CAM out a screw then you over tightened it and should throw out the screw and replace it, basically you damaged it and have no one to blame but yourself if you don't replace it and have issues in the future. The CAM out damage to the screw head will only be in the direction you are going at that time (normally tightening it). If you reverse it the screw will not have cam out damage the opposite direction so you can still remove the screw. Replace the screw and set your clutch to a lower setting and figure out what happened.
Also I know a lot of machine screws can come with a hex head that almost always prevents cam out so this is counter to my statement but if think about it those hex screws are not engineered to be installed with an impact or drill. Normally in most shops I have seen you use hand tools to fasten them so that you don't over tighten them and use loc tight when appropriate.
NOW what I would love to see is a Robertson head screw that allows a CAM out on tightening but no CAM out on loosening. That would be smart! Cause CAM out on a screw when trying to take off a stuck screw is the worst!!!
Could this be used as a zombie barricade if installed to the inside of the jamb?
Probably missing it, but I don't see it on their site. But like that it has Guilford of Maine stuff
Found it with a Google search, but it says it's not available
updated the link. oops my bad!
What about a moon shaped concrete wall 10-20yards from the house. The width/length of the house. Would that prevent a rush of water? I'm buying a house in Texas that flooded during Harvey from the stream on property. Trying to see what my options are. I love the place and it's been redone and don't want to have to redo it myself
i live in the keys and i’m super interested in this, as i haven’t gotten around to putting the house on stilts quite yet. i’d probably go one step further and put some thin rubber gasket stripping between the tracks and the door frames...
you could also use clear silicone. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you! far better idea 😅
Cheers!
My favorite part is where the siding on the left isn't locked in
we stopped to film the video in the middle of the installation. Cheers!
I love it, it has multiple uses lol awesome! Cheers Jeff
Thank you! Cheers!
Really want to see one of these in action
I can totally use this on my lower back door. Thank you!
No, Jeff. It's not on a 4 to 6 year cycle. It's EVERY year.
Salutations from Houston, Texas
If you have floods every 4 to 6 years, it isn't very smart to build there and the government probably shouldn't allow it or enforce some precautions in the design...
If you have floods every year, it's downright stupid to build there, move, burn the house down if you have good insurance, get out of there.
I went to their website to check prices. Said call to get a quote. Cost is $300 per foot. 3’ wide door = 900 plus s and h. Steep
This would be good for windows in Tornado prone areas
We have a basement stairwell with a drain. When it rains too hard the drain gets overwhelmed and we have a pool party in the basement. I'm wondering if this would work between the door and the storm door.
Torx especially if SS screws
My problem with this is my garage doors
Thanks so much
You're welcome!
Thanks so much for your video. I have question for your previous video illustrating flooring. For the underpad you recommended for Vinyl Flooring, is it Mass Loaded Vinyl or other material?
any dense sound absorbing pad will work.
Why not install those channels with the gasket toward the inside of the house? That way the weight of the water will push that plate into the gasket, making a tighter seal.
Does it come in matching colors with my house
That flood gate really looks kind of flimsy, I don't think it would tolerate a couple of feet of water. In my country we DIY these. You just need some u-shaped steel rails, a 1 inch thick piece of wood (or less depending on the width of the door) as q flood gate that would just fit the space with some old bike tyre rubber to improvise a sort of seal so the water won't come in. Those can resist a LOT of water and once placed correctly can resist several days with no water comming in. Plus no shipping and much cheaper.
the gate is much stronger than a sheet of plywood. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Who said plywood? I wrote "1 inch thick piece of wood".
what about at the bottom of the door? What prevents water from coming in at the bottom?
Do they make these for sliding patio doors?
what is the name of the color of your house it is really nice
What brand/product is this?
What if the flood is just rising/standing water? Water has nowhere to go for awhile when that happens. Would it slowly leak into the house until it eventually levels out?
The flood rises and flows through the siding. What does this doorway fix solve?
If you lived in a flood zone you would know that last minute bandages aren’t going to save squat. FYI: the electricity goes out first so the shop vac has no power.
Advertise proactive elevation if you want to address flooding! A baby gate will not save your foundation’s support, keep the trees from falling over onto the house when they lose support or rescue the residents who are trapped inside.
Build a shelf to go on top of it, and have it as a bar in the summer! :D
Should the seal not go to the inside and you tighten it up from the outside? Right now the way you have it you are replying on 3-4 bolts to hold the steel against the seal strip. If water presses on the steel it will try to break the seal and the bolts SHOULD stop it.. But if you installed it the other way the bolts will keep it sealed with gentle force on it but the force of the water out side forcing in would press the steel against the seal strip no? the more water the tighter it will press against the seals
EDIT: NM just saw another users comment that said the exact same thing!! Seems this is the way to install it
Hi, I have a crawl space that occasionally floods. Do you happen to know if they can customize the size to accommodate a crawlspace entrance which is about 2' x 2'? Thanks for the input. Love you videos!
thanks for this video, but storm door is much better, this shield is to low, leave big gap between door and metal shield, water will go in from top gap if rains big.
What's going on with that siding? Left side of door..
Bad install..
I can see the benefit of this product used to prevent damage from floating debris during a flood but as a water deterrent, can't see how it would divert water any more than your door on your house.
Awesome idea great video always enjoy watching your videos
Glad you like them!
Cool invention!
Thanks for this video!!!
You are so welcome!
I expected you to at least test the product and flood your yard. LOL!
So, if you go to the link in the description, there's no obvious product information. Typing "flood" or "flooding" into their search box doesn't get you anything, either. So I went to Google and searched on "flooding tmsoundproofing.com" which got me to an (apparently hidden) product page for "Flood Barrier Shield" that sort of looks like the right product, but has, in giant letters, "This Product is Currently Unavailable Through Our Site."
All well and good if the water level isn’t higher than one show, I’m wondering if they make ones at different heights
Any higher than that and you windows are going give before another piece works.
Wow this is great, thank you!
I’m sure it doesn’t matter since they are just handles, but funny they labeled them each 1 and 2, then marked the main plate 1 and 2 and they got put on backwards :3
Just saying, if your house is flooding by 6 inches above a door sil every 4 to 6 years, then I recommend getting a new house instead of trying to midigate it with clumsy door contraptions...
not always an option for folks. Cheers!
I have water coming from into the house from underneath
I want more!
Awesome video 📹 👏
Guessing who every designed this must have visited Venice recently as this is the main system used there
Didn't they just have a 'House Flood' in DC?
This is not free flood solutions since the water will always find the way through the hole in your house such as toilet, however, this is can be solution to prevent dirty water from outside.
Excellent video! Seen a few x rated commentators. Reported them! Jeez with everything going on these days spammers have to come to this channel.
Tell me about it
If it only worked on certain family members!
👌
I❤ that
Looks good to protect from rising water levels, but in a hurricane the doors will get slammed with heavy rains, so the rainwater will just run off the door and build up between the door and this shield..
They should have the top of the shield angled towards the door with a rubber between the 2 to avoid this issue.
Sorry, the majority of the water comes thru weep holes in masonry or under siding then under and around the bottom seal plates. Enjoy you channel
I'll just stay my house with rain-x to prevent flooding
Baby Gate!!!😂😂🤣🤣
The flood water will seep right through your walls and into your building.
Jeff and his phillips screw hatred :)
Chuck to voice Ernie next season?
💙
That thing cost $1,000.00
I can probably make something similar myself for $100.
I remove every Phillips screw that arrive with hardware here - give me Robertson or Torx.
cheers!
To continue: Three thousand homes flooded.
Why not just keep the door closed? Brace it with some 2x4 on the inside. If you have water up to the door, I'm not so sure that plate will save you anyway.
Worst thing Americans ever gave us was the philips screw...
slotted screw isn't much better
that would be better for rodent problems
Looks like another useless product for which you'll have to pay through your nose.
Outrageously expensive. What a rip off.
this is gonna cause a lot of trip n falls.
someone's gonna back into it and fall ass first, or not be aware of it and fall on their face.
a) the metal plate would only be installed ahead of natural disasters, so not up for very long and b) if you are prone to tripping over 3 foot tall barriers i think you have bigger problems.
Or just don't buy a house in a flood plane.
The main issue caused by flooding is not wet floors or walls. It is sewer system that stops working for long period of time. What comes after that? Spread of bacteria and diseases. So never by a house in most parts of Texas, Louisiana , Florida, Georgia, Carolinas and along the eastern coast up to Canada border. Next time you want to buy a house add “flooding” to your search criteria like “flooding in Louisville, KY” for example.
Umm yeah....
If that were the case, there would be whole states that have no residents. Then the non flood zone residents would be pissed that everyone’s there driving up home prices.
when irresponsible developers build houses on wetlands and flood planes
I think he's on coke.
This thing is a piece of junk. Water will always enter the house.
You're not wrong, and he says exactly that. The point of this product is not that NO water will enter your house, it's that LESS water will enter your house.
I love your channel, but that thing there is a STUPID product.