Thank you for bunch of usefull tips. Especially about counting of pump pressing. Forget about how much I've put hardener or resin is common situation. I definitely will remember and use them in future.
This is all very helpful. I have always wanted to build a stitch and glue kayak. Thank you Nick for sharing a wealth of experience. I am keen to build this kayak as 3 sectional kayak to travel on plane journeys. I wonder if that is something you can incorporate in a video in the future?
Very welcome! My brother has a take apart version of the CLC Shearwater Sport which he developed. They sell the kit, I don't know what they have for video showing the process.
Great video. Thanks Nick. I've got into the habit of weighing the epoxy and hardener when I mix them. That way you don't have to be concerned about any "burps" while pumping.
@@NickSchade The cup-in-a-cup method has always worked for me. Get the same clear solo type cups, put one in another, and pour in water to your desired marks for a batch size, mark the outer cup in sharpie. Put in a clean cup, pour epoxy to each line, bottom of the line for resin, top of the line for hardner. Then you always have a clean mixing/measuring cup, and no burps. The pumps can still dispense, but not counting on them to measure. Learned that on the old Kayak Forum! : )
@@qaannat It is a good system for accuracy, but goes through cups and is not quick for on-the-go changes in batch size. Baking scales can have a percentage reading, so if the ratio is 100:50 you can put hardener in, hit a button and then fill until you get the 50% reading. I have also used the calibrated ratio measuring cups. I'll sneak in some measuring systems into future videos
@@NickSchade Haven't seen cooking scales with percentages - that's cool!. We write a key for the particular epoxy and stick it to the wall next to the scale.
Could you spray the stain with an automotive paint gun to avoid unevenness? I know it would waste product, but maybe result in a more uniform application.
Nick why didn't you hit the panels with 220 0r 320 to knock off some of the fuzz on the panels before staining so you wouldn't get snags on the rag as you wipe?
Hi Nick, why do you precoat the stained panels with epoxy? Would not it good just fiberglassing, epoxying with the unstained panels when you cover the hull?
The panels are subjected to a bit of rough handling between now and fiberglassing, the epoxy protects the stain. If anything drips on the epoxy, it is possible to clean it off without messing up the stain.
No, the tape doesn't leave any residue. This tape had been on for about 6 months, stored out in a warm shed, so it really had a good chance to get well bonded, but it came off without a problem.
Don't recall any other YT video that took the care and time to illustrate safe epoxy mixing procedures as this one did. Thanks as always Nick!
Liked the tip with the denatured alcohol to even the stain. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for bunch of usefull tips. Especially about counting of pump pressing. Forget about how much I've put hardener or resin is common situation. I definitely will remember and use them in future.
Glad it was helpful!
This is all very helpful. I have always wanted to build a stitch and glue kayak. Thank you Nick for sharing a wealth of experience. I am keen to build this kayak as 3 sectional kayak to travel on plane journeys. I wonder if that is something you can incorporate in a video in the future?
Very welcome! My brother has a take apart version of the CLC Shearwater Sport which he developed. They sell the kit, I don't know what they have for video showing the process.
Great video. Thanks Nick. I've got into the habit of weighing the epoxy and hardener when I mix them. That way you don't have to be concerned about any "burps" while pumping.
I was thinking about slipping in some different ways to measure epoxy in future episodes.
@@NickSchade The cup-in-a-cup method has always worked for me. Get the same clear solo type cups, put one in another, and pour in water to your desired marks for a batch size, mark the outer cup in sharpie. Put in a clean cup, pour epoxy to each line, bottom of the line for resin, top of the line for hardner. Then you always have a clean mixing/measuring cup, and no burps. The pumps can still dispense, but not counting on them to measure. Learned that on the old Kayak Forum! : )
@@qaannat It is a good system for accuracy, but goes through cups and is not quick for on-the-go changes in batch size.
Baking scales can have a percentage reading, so if the ratio is 100:50 you can put hardener in, hit a button and then fill until you get the 50% reading. I have also used the calibrated ratio measuring cups.
I'll sneak in some measuring systems into future videos
@@NickSchade Haven't seen cooking scales with percentages - that's cool!. We write a key for the particular epoxy and stick it to the wall next to the scale.
@@MikStorer Clint Chase told me about them. Found as "Baking Scales" Here is an example: amzn.to/3Rvbqf4
Another good one. Thanks, Nick.
watching nice video and worring all this time that staff will fall of the floating table
Could you spray the stain with an automotive paint gun to avoid unevenness? I know it would waste product, but maybe result in a more uniform application.
Spraying would probably produce good results, but the results after the alcohol wipe down are just about perfect.
Nick why didn't you hit the panels with 220 0r 320 to knock off some of the fuzz on the panels before staining so you wouldn't get snags on the rag as you wipe?
You certainly could. I'm keeping this process as simple as possible while still working.
That is cool but y'all were killing me with those epoxy jugs on that cardboard table. Stain looks nice tho.
Yeah, you like that! Almost spilled the bottle of stain all over the place also.
Hi Nick, why do you precoat the stained panels with epoxy? Would not it good just fiberglassing, epoxying with the unstained panels when you cover the hull?
The panels are subjected to a bit of rough handling between now and fiberglassing, the epoxy protects the stain. If anything drips on the epoxy, it is possible to clean it off without messing up the stain.
@@NickSchade Oh, I see. Thank you!
Does the tape leave a residue on the plywood that needs to be removed before staining?
No, the tape doesn't leave any residue. This tape had been on for about 6 months, stored out in a warm shed, so it really had a good chance to get well bonded, but it came off without a problem.
Grazie
How long does it take for the epoxy to cure before you can move the stained pieces? (I have limited space)
It depends on how warm your shop is, but you should figure on 12 hours.