Yes the fuel rate will go to 21mm giving you max travel The fuel screw is located on the back after the aneriod. Take the two screws holding the cap on (one will probably be a break off bolt). the no air plate have a 10mm nut with an 3mm allen screw this is fuel before boost. this plate will pop off. Underneath this will be (hopefully) 10mm nut and a 14mm nut sometimes it's a slotted screw. You'll have to hold both nuts turn them counter clockwise to increase the rack travel. One turn 1mm
Hey funny you should say that!, lol. Yes I did replace the fuel water seperator once right before I drained and kinda flushed the tank out and so I thought it would be ok. After replacing the $350. fuel pump it had exactly the same syptoms so I drained a bit of fuel from the fuel water seperator and it was clean but then I took the damn thing off and looked inside of it with direct sunlight and low and behold it was completely packed with rusty looking shit filling all of the pleats on the inside!. So I guess I will dump another $50. for a new fuel water seperator cartridge but will first put a clear plastic bowl type of fuel water seperator in line right before the stock worthless one that ford was so happy to mount on their trucks. The stock one plugs up very quickly and cannot be inspected without completely removing it and visually inspecting the inside, just draining the build up on the bottome of this thing does little to no good. Bad design from ford motor company!. and thank you for replying so fast, I very much appreciate it. Marti.
How do you get the bolt out if it fell in lol Don't know if u noticed I did I have a dt 360 international 766 and I had it turned all the way and went to tighten the nut and the darn thing fell In how do I get it out
Normally an MW pump on a DT466 gets about 13mm rack travel. Taking it to 14-15 would be better than going to 21mm and the aneriod would still work reducing smoke. The method your using will surely give you more fuel. Just never seen it done that way. That screw lets the pump go to 21mm for starting, then the max stop engages around 290rpm allowing the aneriod to work.
I turned my screw out 5 turns and it seems the same until i hit about 1500rpm then it feels like a boost comes on and a lot more power. I havent done the back bolts yet, but this seems backwards from what it should have done... Also i havent messed with timing yet.
If you cycle the accelerator lever on the pump, with the engine off, you’ll see a round headed bolt. It takes a 10mm wrench, but there’s a jamb nut on the under side you have to break loose first. Turn the bolt clockwise to lower the idle rpm, then tighten the jamb nut back up.
@@stillsonhillfarms8389 , you mean, if you drop the nut or screw from the video? Yes. The easiest way is to get a pencil magnet in through the cover for the gov springs.
@nevrenufhp okay thanks I feel dome for doin it I am 15 just bought it and want to spice it up a bit to run on a spreader and I want it to idle nice and sound good idc about it smoking not that kinda person
Hey - Great Videos! Thanks For Sharing. Made our Fuel Injection swap on out DT466 alot easier! Could you possibly post one (or steps) on complete removal of the Injection Pump... we didnt know you had to pull the casing apart holding the gear & Flyweight .. 3 hidden bolts!
Thanks for the tip. I would also like to lower the idle just a bit since it seems to be a little fast. Is this the adjustment that is right on the on/off solenoid which turns a lever? on my engine the 6.6 it is right below the back of the injector unit and is just forward of the throttle lever. Would you happen to know what rpm the 6 cylinder 6.6 engines should idle at?....maybe 700 or so?. thanks I never realized how cool you tube can be to gain valuable information about important things such as truck repairs ect.
The idle adjustment is where the throttle lever rests. It takes a 10mm wrench. You have to do it with the engine off. Idle should be 650 to 700 in gear with an automatic, or in neutral with manual. Adjusting the full fuel on the back of the pump really wakes it up.
@internationtruck1965 The turbos are the same model, but the exhaust side of the 360 is a little smaller. You would be better off getting an HX35 from a Dodge/Cummins and getting a T3/T4 adaptor. The HX35 is bigger than the T04 that IH used. Yes, you can run a P-pump on a 360, it just needs the gear & hub, and adaptor. You can get those from Sheids or Hypermax, and possibly from a couple other places too. I dont have the part number for the vlave springs, but they are from Comp Cams.
It will make it return to stock power at a certain rpm, yes. This adjustment is more of a secondary adjustment. Do the fuel nut on the back of the pump. Then, if it doesn’t have the response you like, you can adjust this screw to help it “get out of the hole” quicker.
Hi there, thank you for the video. For some reason my screw is not centered. It is towards the cab to the point where the screw head is barely visible. If you wouldn't mind, do you have any thoughts on this?
The engine has to be in the “run” position. Turn on the key, and pull the shutoff solenoid to the run position. If it doesn’t move into the opening, cycle the throttle around until it does.
What if my fuel screw is hitting the lip of the hole? 😂😂😂 if I move my throttle linkage the bolt hits the bottom threads on the fuel screw hole. Is it supposed to do this? I can only move the throttle linkage 1/2 an inch and the bolt hits the hole in the pump housing.
@@nevrenufhp ok thank you I got it, my pump doesn’t have anything like you showed for the smoke screw. All it has is a big nut with a stud in the center so do I take that off and loosen something inside? Also how do I know where my gov springs are set at because the plug for that, rack plug, throttle linkage travel bolt all have orange marker paint on them where someone or some shop has been inside it. How i described to you is how I found my rack screw
I have a 6.6 in a f-600 and it will not keep the rpm's up when driving. It seems to keep running out of fuel in the injector unit or something?, I have changed all fuel filters, drained and cleaned the tank, replaced the lift or supply pump at a cost of $350. and it does the exact same thing as it did. It starts right up no problem and will idle perfectly but as soon as you start driving it it does not want to go above about 1500 rpm and it used to go up to and stay at about 2700-3000 rpm's easily. Please help me figure out what is going on?. I also did blow out the fule supply line going into the tank and tried running it with the fuel suction line immersed in a 5 gallon container of fresh diesel, ran the same and seemed to be starving for fuel? HELP!!!!!!!!!
Back out the screw at least 5 full turns, but you can go to around 10 before it starts hitting the top of the pump. If you want gobs of smoke just take out the screw. The preload goes out for more smoke, in for less.
Edwin Nova Rubiano Este tornillo arrojará mucho combustible en las rpm más bajas. Originalmente fue diseñado para un inicio rápido. Ajustar esto hará mucho humo. Unas pocas vueltas está bien, ya que dará una mejor respuesta.
@@nevrenufhp pero no me quedara comiendo mucho combustible ya que estamos en una parte que es muy caro y pues uno busca la economía o que me recomiendas que lo deje como este original
This isn’t the fuel rate adjustment anyway. With or without the aneroid, the adjustment is on the back of the pump. Yours has a tin cap on it, facing the rear, from what I remember.
The cut off year is 1994 when the new generation 466 was built. The 94-2010 are interchangeable. Roughly, 75-93 would be the other run that would fit yours.
Id like to make some pump adjustments to my ford 6.6 pump but can't find any videos on the p3000 pump. My pump looks similar to your bus is labled I'm the book differently. You have any info on this?
It was hard to fit a lot in the title and description. This governor from Bosch was used on A, P, and MW pumps. The video you just watched is for after adjusting the actual fuel rate(the link). A few turns on the screw on to will help make it a little more responsive. th-cam.com/video/e3InnotLRAE/w-d-xo.html
@@nevrenufhp thank you sir. I saw you are from Oregon? What parts? I'm in bend. I do alot of traveling with monster trucks shows around the west coast. Be cool to check out your toys sometime
Problem solved!. After getting some free bio diesel I had problems with all kinds of crap being re-introduced into the fuel stream from settled debris in the fuel tank and after draining all fuel out of the tank and replacing the fuel filters and water seperator I thought the problem was solved but my truck still would not go over 1500 rpm and was showing syptoms of fuel starvation so I finally figured maybe the fuel pump went out?. After replacing the fuel pump it seemd to run great but as soon as I took it for a test drive up the road it became obvious that it was exactly the same as before. I could not believe it and blew the suction line back into the tank, it was clear, drained some fuel out of the water seperator and it was clean but after removing the water seperator cartridge and looking down into it with direct sunlight it became apparent that it was completly clogged with super fine rusty looking shit!. I guess the moral of my story is do not ever think that just because a water seperator is draining clear diesel that it is good when in fact it is most likely the culprit of a fuel problem. I then installed a nice big clear bowl Zee Line fuel water sepoerator before the trucks stock one and this way I get to see exactly what is flowing into my fuel system. the 1988 Ford F-600's with the 6.6 straight 6 cylinder engines have a very good sytem for the fuel with the exception of a undersized non clear water fuel seperator. If anybody has one of these trucks the first thing that I would recomend doing is installing a clear bowl water fuel seperator right inline before the stock $50. metal cannister type of unit. It was fairly easy to plumb and easy to install a bracket for it since there are plenty of pre-drilled holes in the frame allowing simple instal.
@Micah Adams: Your video has been a huge help. Any idea of the PN# for the bosch lift pump. aka the supply or transfer pump? I dont have that number. A fuel injection shop sure would.
I have the same pump on my Cummins 6cta 8.3 L and I see a lot of guys do this. Was curious as how much I show back that screw off. I have adjusted the aneroid valve 2 full turns bc it takes forever to hit the 2100 rpm to give and lags getting there
Since this is only for part of the fuel adjusting, I'll give you both. Back out this screw about 5 turns. Too many, and it just dumps out black smoke. For an actual power gain, you need to do the fuel rate: th-cam.com/video/e3InnotLRAE/w-d-xo.html
@@nevrenufhp okay I’ve never opened that end up. Is it just a test to see where to adjust it to? Or back it out like shown ? I just don’t want to burn up the motor or over load it.
@@kylewiersema9628 , back off the nuts as shown. It’s a good idea to monitor EGT at this point. Some trucks get really hot from too much adjustment, and others respond wonderfully. Fully loaded, it may get close on temps, but most of these trucks are recreational, so they can handle a bit extra. To do it all out, you would need to add a front mount intercooler, swap to a Ppump, and add a turbo. Then, it could handle running 400+ hp without worry.
@@nevrenufhp okay thanks ! Yeah this 8.3 Cummins is in my 5 ton army truck and it only gets ran 1-2x a week on a short trip I’m not pulling anything that I need crazy horse power just looking to liven it up a little bc it can barely out run it’s shadow getting up to speed. Been told the army has these turned basically all the way down
On a few forums people ask this same question. The way they describe to do it is to remove a plate in the back of the pump and turn back two bolts. What is the difference ?
+Derek Boucher This method gets it a surge of full power at low rpm, and can hold the full power until you let off. Basically, it only gives the extra power at low rpm. If you punch down on the pedal at about 1200rpm or above, it will be just like stock. The other way of doing it(the actual fuel rate adjustment) will give the full power at all rpm. I'll be adding a new video of the fuel nuts hopefully next week.
+nevrenufhp I ended up trying it anyway and it seems to hold good power throughout the power curve, even past 1200 rpm. The engine is in my bucket truck that I lock in at 1200 rpm while spinning the PTO. Am i just burning through fuel now? Under load it will blow a slight amount of black smoke.
I just got a truck with this pump in it. The injection pump was rebuilt but it burns real rich (hurts my eyes rich) and smokey. I have done the top screw as high as I can and turned the star wheel down (thinking that was towards the back of the truck) and still plenty of smoke. so the last adjustment you spoke about was on the rear. Will that help this or not. if so, which way do you turn it? Thanks
If the turbo and everything else in the intake is working properly, it will take care of most of it. If there's a leak, it will smoke pretty bad. Adjusting down the fuel will only make it a weak running turd. The main fuel is on the back, if you decide that's the way to go, but it's not running rich, it's just not getting the air it needs
so with what I have done, would that be adjusting down? I would like to give this thing as much hp as possible. speaking of the turbo I have not heard it whistle at all.
+Bryan Kingsbury , backing out the screw on top will gain power, but smokes pretty bad. Plus, it won't fuel the whole rpm range. The actual fuel adjustment is the nuts on the back of the pump, and I made a video for that too. The turbos they used are a sorry excuse by today's standards. There's not a whistle on most trucks, it's more of a moan.
Great video, how much added h.p does it add? My truck is a '78 international s1800 not quite sure what engine series other than it's a Detroit in a dump truck with a bottom exhaust. I want to convert it to a upright,if I straight pipe it will it sound better and add any h.p? can I turn the turbo up or adjust it?
This adjustment only adds power in the lower rpm, up to around 1800rpm. Straight pipe adds noise, lowers exhaust temp, and helps the turbo spool just a smidge faster. With a diesel, when you add fuel, it makes more boost. There's no adjustment to the turbo. On some, you can adjust the wastegate to open at a higher pressure, and you get a little more total boost.
Yes, that is how the idle is adjusted, There's a 10mm nut under the adjuster bolt. Loosen it, and turn the adjuster bolt CCW. It needs to be at least 650rpm.
Yep. I have done 2 of them. Definitely worth doing, I would recommend starting off with two turns of the screw, Too much fuel can definitely be a bad thing.
can u show me another pump my is different than the one you showed here.mine is a 1989 dt466 international but looks different.or can u tell me how to adjust the fuel,it is smoking a lot. thank you.
The other pump used on these is an A-pump. There's instructions online, but in a nutshell, you back out a set screw at the bottom, rear of the pump. Not the external screws on the back.
No. The 95 will be a fuel plate. Same way a 94-98 dodge 12 valve adjusts the fuel plate. Pop off the cover, slide the plate forward, and put the cover back on.
@@missourimule2827 This was all the free mods. I ground the fuel plate to a #0, set the timing to 24, and tightened the governor springs. The power it makes is limited by your wallet.
You seem knowledgeable about Bosch pumps do you Know how to convert a "s" pump into a "p" pump any information is greatly appreciated. I have am dealing with a international dv550. With the injection pump that idles on 4 cylinders and goes back to all 8 once it's under load I have been told you make it so they idles on all 8
I thought those were an Apump. I haven’t opened up one of those from a 9 liter yet. Mostly because they can’t make much more power than adjusting the pump.
ford nut , usually 5 turns out does pretty well. Make sure you adjust the fuel nuts on the back of the pump too. This adjustment will only add fuel in the lower rpm. Backing it off raises the point in rpm where it gives the excess fuel.
Hi one more quick question?, can I install an auxilarry electric lift pump right after my fuel tank to kinda pre-pressure the fuel before it even get's to the water seperator and the engines mechanical lift pump? and would that not harm the engines fuel pump?.
mine is similar pump but not exactly same I have to much smoke grey at idle and when setting off which is best to adjust ? the one at very back with little cover 2screws is this OK to take off as it seems under tension from a spring ?
@TheDirtytexan 8mpg isnt that bad. Gearing and timing are key. The fuel rate will certainly make it more pleasureable to drive, and go up hills better, just watch the exhaust temp. Hike your timing up to around 19* after you do the fuel.
There's not a lot of options on a 466E. You can send in your computer to Swamps in TN. They can program a little bit, plus make custom injectors. Other than that, you can pull the engine, and swap in a mechanical 466(93 to early 97).
Yes the fuel rate will go to 21mm giving you max travel The fuel screw is located on the back after the aneriod. Take the two screws holding the cap on (one will probably be a break off bolt). the no air plate have a 10mm nut with an 3mm allen screw this is fuel before boost. this plate will pop off. Underneath this will be (hopefully) 10mm nut and a 14mm nut sometimes it's a slotted screw. You'll have to hold both nuts turn them counter clockwise to increase the rack travel. One turn 1mm
Hey funny you should say that!, lol. Yes I did replace the fuel water seperator once right before I drained and kinda flushed the tank out and so I thought it would be ok. After replacing the $350. fuel pump it had exactly the same syptoms so I drained a bit of fuel from the fuel water seperator and it was clean but then I took the damn thing off and looked inside of it with direct sunlight and low and behold it was completely packed with rusty looking shit filling all of the pleats on the inside!. So I guess I will dump another $50. for a new fuel water seperator cartridge but will first put a clear plastic bowl type of fuel water seperator in line right before the stock worthless one that ford was so happy to mount on their trucks. The stock one plugs up very quickly and cannot be inspected without completely removing it and visually inspecting the inside, just draining the build up on the bottome of this thing does little to no good. Bad design from ford motor company!. and thank you for replying so fast, I very much appreciate it. Marti.
How do you get the bolt out if it fell in lol Don't know if u noticed I did I have a dt 360 international 766 and I had it turned all the way and went to tighten the nut and the darn thing fell In how do I get it out
Normally an MW pump on a DT466 gets about 13mm rack travel. Taking it to 14-15 would be better than going to 21mm and the aneriod would still work reducing smoke. The method your using will surely give you more fuel. Just never seen it done that way. That screw lets the pump go to 21mm for starting, then the max stop engages around 290rpm allowing the aneriod to work.
I turned my screw out 5 turns and it seems the same until i hit about 1500rpm then it feels like a boost comes on and a lot more power. I havent done the back bolts yet, but this seems backwards from what it should have done... Also i havent messed with timing yet.
@Bonnie Jones:
If I had better access to these, I would post more videos. Why are you needing to pull the case apart?
And also how do I turn the idle down so it low
If you cycle the accelerator lever on the pump, with the engine off, you’ll see a round headed bolt. It takes a 10mm wrench, but there’s a jamb nut on the under side you have to break loose first. Turn the bolt clockwise to lower the idle rpm, then tighten the jamb nut back up.
Can I open the gov spring to get it out
@@stillsonhillfarms8389 , you mean, if you drop the nut or screw from the video? Yes. The easiest way is to get a pencil magnet in through the cover for the gov springs.
@nevrenufhp okay thanks I feel dome for doin it I am 15 just bought it and want to spice it up a bit to run on a spreader and I want it to idle nice and sound good idc about it smoking not that kinda person
And say I screw the screw all the way down then un screw it how many times do I turn it so it's all the way
Hey - Great Videos! Thanks For Sharing. Made our Fuel Injection swap on out DT466 alot easier!
Could you possibly post one (or steps) on complete removal of the Injection Pump... we didnt know you had to pull the casing apart holding the gear & Flyweight .. 3 hidden bolts!
Can someone tell me how many turns to turn everything thanks in advance
Thanks for the tip. I would also like to lower the idle just a bit since it seems to be a little fast. Is this the adjustment that is right on the on/off solenoid which turns a lever? on my engine the 6.6 it is right below the back of the injector unit and is just forward of the throttle lever. Would you happen to know what rpm the 6 cylinder 6.6 engines should idle at?....maybe 700 or so?. thanks I never realized how cool you tube can be to gain valuable information about important things such as truck repairs ect.
The idle adjustment is where the throttle lever rests. It takes a 10mm wrench. You have to do it with the engine off. Idle should be 650 to 700 in gear with an automatic, or in neutral with manual. Adjusting the full fuel on the back of the pump really wakes it up.
@internationtruck1965
The turbos are the same model, but the exhaust side of the 360 is a little smaller. You would be better off getting an HX35 from a Dodge/Cummins and getting a T3/T4 adaptor. The HX35 is bigger than the T04 that IH used. Yes, you can run a P-pump on a 360, it just needs the gear & hub, and adaptor. You can get those from Sheids or Hypermax, and possibly from a couple other places too.
I dont have the part number for the vlave springs, but they are from Comp Cams.
What could cause misfire or cut out during mid rpm range I’ve adjusted everything except the very back adjustment on the pump
It will make it return to stock power at a certain rpm, yes. This adjustment is more of a secondary adjustment. Do the fuel nut on the back of the pump. Then, if it doesn’t have the response you like, you can adjust this screw to help it “get out of the hole” quicker.
Thabk you sire i will definitely play around with the adjustment in the far rear
Your video has been a huge help. Any idea of the PN# for the bosch lift pump. aka the supply or transfer pump?
Hi there, thank you for the video. For some reason my screw is not centered. It is towards the cab to the point where the screw head is barely visible. If you wouldn't mind, do you have any thoughts on this?
The engine has to be in the “run” position. Turn on the key, and pull the shutoff solenoid to the run position. If it doesn’t move into the opening, cycle the throttle around until it does.
@@nevrenufhp thank you. I appreciate such a quick answer and your thoughtful videos.
@@jackbaccus9866 make sure you put all of the videos to use. Do the fuel, timing, and gov springs!
What if my fuel screw is hitting the lip of the hole? 😂😂😂 if I move my throttle linkage the bolt hits the bottom threads on the fuel screw hole. Is it supposed to do this? I can only move the throttle linkage 1/2 an inch and the bolt hits the hole in the pump housing.
@@royaltydiesel6734 that’s what you don’t want. You have to have free movement. Screw it back in 2 turns, that should do it.
@@nevrenufhp ok thank you I got it, my pump doesn’t have anything like you showed for the smoke screw. All it has is a big nut with a stud in the center so do I take that off and loosen something inside? Also how do I know where my gov springs are set at because the plug for that, rack plug, throttle linkage travel bolt all have orange marker paint on them where someone or some shop has been inside it. How i described to you is how I found my rack screw
Great instructional vid. Makes it easy to understand.
I have a 6.6 in a f-600 and it will not keep the rpm's up when driving. It seems to keep running out of fuel in the injector unit or something?, I have changed all fuel filters, drained and cleaned the tank, replaced the lift or supply pump at a cost of $350. and it does the exact same thing as it did. It starts right up no problem and will idle perfectly but as soon as you start driving it it does not want to go above about 1500 rpm and it used to go up to and stay at about 2700-3000 rpm's easily. Please help me figure out what is going on?. I also did blow out the fule supply line going into the tank and tried running it with the fuel suction line immersed in a 5 gallon container of fresh diesel, ran the same and seemed to be starving for fuel? HELP!!!!!!!!!
What happens if i turn the fuel down a bunch will it save mpg on my dt360
That will give a slight mpg gain. Sometimes advancing the timing will have gains too.
Back out the screw at least 5 full turns, but you can go to around 10 before it starts hitting the top of the pump. If you want gobs of smoke just take out the screw.
The preload goes out for more smoke, in for less.
Tu en este video estas dando mas rpm o estas dando economía
Edwin Nova Rubiano Este tornillo arrojará mucho combustible en las rpm más bajas. Originalmente fue diseñado para un inicio rápido. Ajustar esto hará mucho humo. Unas pocas vueltas está bien, ya que dará una mejor respuesta.
@@nevrenufhp pero no me quedara comiendo mucho combustible ya que estamos en una parte que es muy caro y pues uno busca la economía o que me recomiendas que lo deje como este original
I have a pes6a pump with no aneroid, is the adjustment the same, and with no aneroid what takes its place to compensate for its lack of?
This isn’t the fuel rate adjustment anyway. With or without the aneroid, the adjustment is on the back of the pump. Yours has a tin cap on it, facing the rear, from what I remember.
Hey maybe you can help me out. Ive got a 1988 international with the dt466. Is the lift pump for the injection pump the same for a dt466 and dt466e?
The cut off year is 1994 when the new generation 466 was built. The 94-2010 are interchangeable. Roughly, 75-93 would be the other run that would fit yours.
It's a Sony SteadyShot DSC-S980. Thanks
Id like to make some pump adjustments to my ford 6.6 pump but can't find any videos on the p3000 pump. My pump looks similar to your bus is labled I'm the book differently. You have any info on this?
It was hard to fit a lot in the title and description. This governor from Bosch was used on A, P, and MW pumps. The video you just watched is for after adjusting the actual fuel rate(the link). A few turns on the screw on to will help make it a little more responsive.
th-cam.com/video/e3InnotLRAE/w-d-xo.html
@@nevrenufhp thank you sir. I saw you are from Oregon? What parts? I'm in bend. I do alot of traveling with monster trucks shows around the west coast. Be cool to check out your toys sometime
@@Go4BrokeOffroad , I am originally from Albany, but now I live in CA. My toys have been depleted, except for the daily driver 2013 Golf R. For now.
@@nevrenufhp oh, nice. I moved from Santa Rosa to over here.
Problem solved!. After getting some free bio diesel I had problems with all kinds of crap being re-introduced into the fuel stream from settled debris in the fuel tank and after draining all fuel out of the tank and replacing the fuel filters and water seperator I thought the problem was solved but my truck still would not go over 1500 rpm and was showing syptoms of fuel starvation so I finally figured maybe the fuel pump went out?. After replacing the fuel pump it seemd to run great but as soon as I took it for a test drive up the road it became obvious that it was exactly the same as before. I could not believe it and blew the suction line back into the tank, it was clear, drained some fuel out of the water seperator and it was clean but after removing the water seperator cartridge and looking down into it with direct sunlight it became apparent that it was completly clogged with super fine rusty looking shit!. I guess the moral of my story is do not ever think that just because a water seperator is draining clear diesel that it is good when in fact it is most likely the culprit of a fuel problem. I then installed a nice big clear bowl Zee Line fuel water sepoerator before the trucks stock one and this way I get to see exactly what is flowing into my fuel system. the 1988 Ford F-600's with the 6.6 straight 6 cylinder engines have a very good sytem for the fuel with the exception of a undersized non clear water fuel seperator. If anybody has one of these trucks the first thing that I would recomend doing is installing a clear bowl water fuel seperator right inline before the stock $50. metal cannister type of unit. It was fairly easy to plumb and easy to install a bracket for it since there are plenty of pre-drilled holes in the frame allowing simple instal.
@Micah Adams:
Your video has been a huge help. Any idea of the PN# for the bosch lift pump. aka the supply or transfer pump?
I dont have that number. A fuel injection shop sure would.
I have the same pump on my Cummins 6cta 8.3 L and I see a lot of guys do this. Was curious as how much I show back that screw off. I have adjusted the aneroid valve 2 full turns bc it takes forever to hit the 2100 rpm to give and lags getting there
Since this is only for part of the fuel adjusting, I'll give you both. Back out this screw about 5 turns. Too many, and it just dumps out black smoke. For an actual power gain, you need to do the fuel rate: th-cam.com/video/e3InnotLRAE/w-d-xo.html
@@nevrenufhp okay I’ve never opened that end up. Is it just a test to see where to adjust it to? Or back it out like shown ? I just don’t want to burn up the motor or over load it.
@@kylewiersema9628 , back off the nuts as shown. It’s a good idea to monitor EGT at this point. Some trucks get really hot from too much adjustment, and others respond wonderfully. Fully loaded, it may get close on temps, but most of these trucks are recreational, so they can handle a bit extra. To do it all out, you would need to add a front mount intercooler, swap to a Ppump, and add a turbo. Then, it could handle running 400+ hp without worry.
@@nevrenufhp okay thanks ! Yeah this 8.3 Cummins is in my 5 ton army truck and it only gets ran 1-2x a week on a short trip I’m not pulling anything that I need crazy horse power just looking to liven it up a little bc it can barely out run it’s shadow getting up to speed. Been told the army has these turned basically all the way down
Do you know how to turn up a 91' John Deere 4055 Bosch pump?
Do you have a picture and or model number of the pump?
On a few forums people ask this same question. The way they describe to do it is to remove a plate in the back of the pump and turn back two bolts. What is the difference ?
It is a 1986
+Derek Boucher
This method gets it a surge of full power at low rpm, and can hold the full power until you let off. Basically, it only gives the extra power at low rpm. If you punch down on the pedal at about 1200rpm or above, it will be just like stock.
The other way of doing it(the actual fuel rate adjustment) will give the full power at all rpm. I'll be adding a new video of the fuel nuts hopefully next week.
+Derek Boucher
These pumps were used from 84 to early 93
+nevrenufhp I ended up trying it anyway and it seems to hold good power throughout the power curve, even past 1200 rpm. The engine is in my bucket truck that I lock in at 1200 rpm while spinning the PTO. Am i just burning through fuel now? Under load it will blow a slight amount of black smoke.
+Derek Boucher . It only drops fuel economy when you got your foot to the floor. Normal driving will not change it.
I just got a truck with this pump in it. The injection pump was rebuilt but it burns real rich (hurts my eyes rich) and smokey. I have done the top screw as high as I can and turned the star wheel down (thinking that was towards the back of the truck) and still plenty of smoke. so the last adjustment you spoke about was on the rear. Will that help this or not. if so, which way do you turn it? Thanks
If the turbo and everything else in the intake is working properly, it will take care of most of it. If there's a leak, it will smoke pretty bad. Adjusting down the fuel will only make it a weak running turd. The main fuel is on the back, if you decide that's the way to go, but it's not running rich, it's just not getting the air it needs
so with what I have done, would that be adjusting down? I would like to give this thing as much hp as possible. speaking of the turbo I have not heard it whistle at all.
+Bryan Kingsbury , backing out the screw on top will gain power, but smokes pretty bad. Plus, it won't fuel the whole rpm range. The actual fuel adjustment is the nuts on the back of the pump, and I made a video for that too. The turbos they used are a sorry excuse by today's standards. There's not a whistle on most trucks, it's more of a moan.
Cool. I have a Ford with the 6.6 and I have been wondering how to turn it up. I will have to try it now.
Great video, how much added h.p does it add? My truck is a '78 international s1800 not quite sure what engine series other than it's a Detroit in a dump truck with a bottom exhaust. I want to convert it to a upright,if I straight pipe it will it sound better and add any h.p? can I turn the turbo up or adjust it?
This adjustment only adds power in the lower rpm, up to around 1800rpm. Straight pipe adds noise, lowers exhaust temp, and helps the turbo spool just a smidge faster. With a diesel, when you add fuel, it makes more boost. There's no adjustment to the turbo. On some, you can adjust the wastegate to open at a higher pressure, and you get a little more total boost.
How do you adjust idle RPM? My DTA360 idles at 450rpm right now. Do you just adjust the throttle linkage position to open the throttle a little more?
Yes, that is how the idle is adjusted, There's a 10mm nut under the adjuster bolt. Loosen it, and turn the adjuster bolt CCW. It needs to be at least 650rpm.
nevrenufhp same for dt466? My 84 is real low idle
@weedissafer
It could be worse. I drive a DT466E that gets 4.4 mpg. A few of the other trucks get 5-6.
Depending on how much you adjust, and the original hp rating, but average is around 30hp.
@GuateChecho
Running an intercooler or aftercooler is a good thing! For sure run one.
What would be a good upgrade turbo for a 92 7.8 ford diesel?
A great one is an S362 or S366. Readily available on eBay.
Yep. I have done 2 of them. Definitely worth doing, I would recommend starting off with two turns of the screw, Too much fuel can definitely be a bad thing.
can u show me another pump my is different than the one you showed here.mine is a 1989 dt466 international but looks different.or can u tell me how to adjust the fuel,it is smoking a lot. thank you.
The other pump used on these is an A-pump. There's instructions online, but in a nutshell, you back out a set screw at the bottom, rear of the pump. Not the external screws on the back.
How I add torque power of ,6Ct cummins engine due to tear down at high torque
Mario Cruz , th-cam.com/video/e3InnotLRAE/w-d-xo.html
Will this work the same on a 1995 DT-466 ,Thanks.
No. The 95 will be a fuel plate. Same way a 94-98 dodge 12 valve adjusts the fuel plate. Pop off the cover, slide the plate forward, and put the cover back on.
@@nevrenufhp Thank ya Mister i'll give it a try.
@@missourimule2827 so it can be peppy like this one. th-cam.com/video/ILQQMBMJygQ/w-d-xo.html
@@nevrenufhp I wish it was just half that peppy,Lord have Mercy.
@@missourimule2827 This was all the free mods. I ground the fuel plate to a #0, set the timing to 24, and tightened the governor springs. The power it makes is limited by your wallet.
Do you have any video on the engine oil cooler?
Marvin Massaline , I don't at the moment. There's not much to em. A couple gaskets and a couple Orings.
Great new vids you got keep it up like your style 5/5 nice quality what cam you using?
You seem knowledgeable about Bosch pumps do you Know how to convert a "s" pump into a "p" pump any information is greatly appreciated. I have am dealing with a international dv550. With the injection pump that idles on 4 cylinders and goes back to all 8 once it's under load I have been told you make it so they idles on all 8
I thought those were an Apump. I haven’t opened up one of those from a 9 liter yet. Mostly because they can’t make much more power than adjusting the pump.
@weedissafer
You must not have been around many big rigs. Most of those get under 8mpg.
That is the start cut/in cut/out screw not the fuel screw. All your doing is allowing the fulcrum lever to bypass the start cut out.
Do you gain a little horse power doing this and if so about how much .
ford nut , yes. This adds fuel. It’s about a 40hp gain.
How many turns did u do on it
ford nut , usually 5 turns out does pretty well. Make sure you adjust the fuel nuts on the back of the pump too. This adjustment will only add fuel in the lower rpm. Backing it off raises the point in rpm where it gives the excess fuel.
How far do I adjust the fuel nuts on back of pump
ford nut , on the stock turbo, back em off flush with the end of the stud. If you’re feelin frisky, take the nuts off. Personally, I take em off.
what years? in other words- would it work on an 06 dt466?
Azi Az , 84-92. Your 06 is all electronic. The Hypermax module is what it needs.
nevrenufhp gotcha. thanks for great video. i'll use it on my next truck ;)
Hi one more quick question?, can I install an auxilarry electric lift pump right after my fuel tank to kinda pre-pressure the fuel before it even get's to the water seperator and the engines mechanical lift pump? and would that not harm the engines fuel pump?.
As long as it's a low pressure unit, and rated for diesel, yes. It also makes bleeding the system a snap.
As long as it's a low pressure unit, and rated for diesel, yes. It also makes bleeding the system a snap.
mine is similar pump but not exactly same I have to much smoke grey at idle and when setting off which is best to adjust ? the one at very back with little cover 2screws is this OK to take off as it seems under tension from a spring ?
ZeroHour , smoke at idle is timing being off, or fuel pressure too low.
ZeroHour , if there's spring tension on the rear cover with the 2 bolts, that may be a very different pump.
el vídeo de graduación de la bomba inyección si se traduce español
Carlos Alfredo Sepulveda Correa ,
¿Debo tener subtítulos en todo el video?
Como checar. Boca echa umo. Español
Como. Checar. Boca. De dizel. 210. Navitar
Do you have any of these pumps for sale?
I can. I just sold one last month. Takes a few days to go get em. This particular one in the video was sold with the lines, gear, and adapters.
Cuando pueda me regala un numero de contacto para seguir los pasos
@TheDirtytexan
8mpg isnt that bad. Gearing and timing are key. The fuel rate will certainly make it more pleasureable to drive, and go up hills better, just watch the exhaust temp. Hike your timing up to around 19* after you do the fuel.
love to bump up my power in my work truck shes kinda doggish on hills 97 4700 dte466
There's not a lot of options on a 466E. You can send in your computer to Swamps in TN. They can program a little bit, plus make custom injectors. Other than that, you can pull the engine, and swap in a mechanical 466(93 to early 97).
They sure run like the fuel rate has gone up. The book I see calls it a rack stop screw.
Where it is located diesel pump internationa 1991 school bus
It's under a metal plug on top of the pump. It takes a 10mm or 3/8" Allen head.
how much?
The going rate is 300 without the gear or adapter. I do adjust all the freebie adjustments(fuel rate, , throttle stop, rpm).
How do i get your number?
Tenque traduzir em brasileiro
It wont be with a 100 gallon tank.
Lo qiero escuchas en español
👍
En español por favor