I personally cut the pins from the wires because I don't need to be able to remove and re-attach the cable and I don't like that cables can come loose, especially when it's on the IR sensor where it's usually under the robot and I wouldn't see if it came loose. So, by soldering the wires, I know it will have a good connection. I think, when you're asking "Why solder the pins and then cut off the pins" you are talking about the last part where I snip the wires that are sticking through the board. If so, that's because if they stick out too far, they could bump into something, causing the pins to bend and then they could touch and short something out. It also looks cleaner, but I only rally do this for wires or things with long leads like resistors or LEDs, if it's a chip, or breadboard pins, you wouldn't need to cut them as they're already short enough. The solder connection should look like the shape of a Hershey Kiss, and the pin shouldn't extend much beyond the tip of that Hershey Kiss shape, otherwise it could cause a short. I hope this helps.
@@RobotResearchLab , I guess I wasn’t clear. Why not solder the pins to the board and then snip the pins going through the board (instead of snipping the wires)? This would be easier/faster, especially for beginners.
@@AramPerez Ah, I understand now; that's definitely an option. I hadn't thought about that probably because I was professionally trained in soldering and I'm a Dudley Do-Right, so that training kicked in. My only concern with the pins is that, if you took the plastic housing off, they could bend and short since there's quite a bit of pin exposed, but, if you left the plastic on, that would work so long as you didn't need the board to sit fairly flush against anything. When I install my boards, I typically use a screw with just a bolt as a spacer between the board and the body of the robot, so in that case, it wouldn't have worked for me. I"ll definitely keep your comment in mind next time I have a situation like this, and mention that your method is a perfectly good option, especially for beginners.
I don't have one that I created because I just use the examples from the QTR library which you can access from the Arduino IDE under File-->Examples I do have an article I wrote, with a video, that covers hooking up and testing them but it's with the QTR-8A sensors so you'd have to modify the code. You can check that out here robotresearchlab.com/2019/03/18/how-to-hookup-and-program-a-qtr-8-sensor-array/
Why cut off the pins from the wires? Why solder the pins and then cut off the pins? TIA
I personally cut the pins from the wires because I don't need to be able to remove and re-attach the cable and I don't like that cables can come loose, especially when it's on the IR sensor where it's usually under the robot and I wouldn't see if it came loose. So, by soldering the wires, I know it will have a good connection.
I think, when you're asking "Why solder the pins and then cut off the pins" you are talking about the last part where I snip the wires that are sticking through the board. If so, that's because if they stick out too far, they could bump into something, causing the pins to bend and then they could touch and short something out. It also looks cleaner, but I only rally do this for wires or things with long leads like resistors or LEDs, if it's a chip, or breadboard pins, you wouldn't need to cut them as they're already short enough. The solder connection should look like the shape of a Hershey Kiss, and the pin shouldn't extend much beyond the tip of that Hershey Kiss shape, otherwise it could cause a short.
I hope this helps.
@@RobotResearchLab , I guess I wasn’t clear. Why not solder the pins to the board and then snip the pins going through the board (instead of snipping the wires)? This would be easier/faster, especially for beginners.
@@AramPerez Ah, I understand now; that's definitely an option. I hadn't thought about that probably because I was professionally trained in soldering and I'm a Dudley Do-Right, so that training kicked in. My only concern with the pins is that, if you took the plastic housing off, they could bend and short since there's quite a bit of pin exposed, but, if you left the plastic on, that would work so long as you didn't need the board to sit fairly flush against anything. When I install my boards, I typically use a screw with just a bolt as a spacer between the board and the body of the robot, so in that case, it wouldn't have worked for me.
I"ll definitely keep your comment in mind next time I have a situation like this, and mention that your method is a perfectly good option, especially for beginners.
bro, I want to aks if you a have program for check this sensor a QTR-8RC good or no?
thanks
I don't have one that I created because I just use the examples from the QTR library which you can access from the Arduino IDE under File-->Examples
I do have an article I wrote, with a video, that covers hooking up and testing them but it's with the QTR-8A sensors so you'd have to modify the code. You can check that out here robotresearchlab.com/2019/03/18/how-to-hookup-and-program-a-qtr-8-sensor-array/