Those layers of hand drawn paper diagrams at the beginning of the video to explain the jig were top notch. Don't need computer animations for everything.
Adding detail to tis frame, that’s where I mess it up! 😅 I’m glad you made a point to explain this further. For someone like me that prefers to work in steel than wood it is really helpful to see this kind of explanation!
Genius! I love how you don't need corner clamps, because the dowels keep everything flush. As always I am amazed at your skills. Love to see you make tools and jigs specific for each project. Especially something I have never seen in a store, a corner dowel jig. Love your relentless pursuit of continuous improvements and THANKS for sharing them with us!
Clever! If the holes are not perfectly square to the cut line when you split the block, they will be misaligned by the amount: kerfwidth * tan(θ) ; and if they aren't parallel they won't be spaced evenly because the different angles will cause different offsets across the kerfwidth. I suggest splitting the block first, then drill the holes so they stay aligned left-right, perhaps tape and superglue to a substrate to drill the holes after splitting. Or just start with 2 blocks.
Burr relief cut is very elegant solution to decreasing potential misalignment. It seems so simple, but when you did it, I got unreasonably enthusiastic. 😄
You saved my ass with that splitting the drill guide trick Matthias. I need to set two stone wings into a quite complicated plane of a stone griffin's body. I'm sure that with a little adaptation this trick will work
Great work and as always easy to watch, thanks. One question, why do you need both pieces? couldn't you just flip the piece to use it for the counter part?
If you cut the jig piece with the holes before drilling it, you won't have the saw's kerf contributing to misalignment. If you drill the jig pieces oversized, you can press in a metal bushing for use as a drill guide to prolong the life.
If the two holes are too far out of parallel, the frame will be hard to assemble anyway. Just make the holes parallel enough, and you won't have to worry about the effect of the kerf
@@liambohl that's true, but if the holes are parallel, but not perpendicular to the cut, the final pieces will assemble, but not line up with the corner of the miter due to the kerf.
Awesome. Some metal tubing, sleeve/bushing/bearing, in the holes will keep the integrity of the holes. You could make a sets for different dowel sizes. Great idea. Thanks!
Smarty pants! Nah, its actually a brilliant idea, Matthius. I've just bought a standard dowel jig but this definitely looks like the answer to mitre joints, cheers.
I'm really fond of rubber cement/contact cement for that: it's removable if used "wet" (ie. rubber cement mode can be peeled up easily, contact cement mode is permanent), doesn't wrinkle or hold the paper up off the backing any, and it's easy to clean any excess from around the edges of the paper being mounted.
@@joelhollingsworth2374 thanks, I'll give that a go! A number of times I've made a nice frame then marred the end result by using whatever glue is to hand to stick the paper to a backing
Good to see you in my feed again. Not 20 minutes after watching this video I saw a pack of 100 similar skewers - they look like 5mil - in Safeway for $2.99 USD.
I kind of use them like "one time use" containers. Fill them up with the remainder of varnish, by the time that's used up, the seal isn't good anymore.
i wonder if your can recommend any brand of table saw or what to look out for. hobby furniture and house good stuff in mind, not afraid to buy used, but space is a bit limited. each time i see stuff that is so simple with a table saw I'd really like to have one.
Whatever you get try to get one with a cast iron top. Some people put table saws on casters but I like mine permanently in place. So it does take up a lot of space. Europeans center their shops around a band saw. Table saws are more of an American thing.
Cool concept for not having to worry about holes being perfectly positioned. I made a jig for my closet build. And now trying to figure out how to make it adjustable for different materials.
Matt, This is a wonderful video and this jig reveals your real genius! Nice to see. It was kind of you to share that tip from John. I've never tried that but it looks interesting! Best Wishes, Tom K.
i was thinking about omething similar but … why did you cut it by half and made two of them. I was thinking about one piece with that positioning thingies on both sides. Is it bad idea?
If the drill isn't very close to perpendicular when drilling the blocks, like shown in your drawing, you'd have alignment off by half the kerf of the saw blade, wouldn't you? You drilled them on the drill press, so I assume they were quite accurate. I do think it's a good jig.
Although you say that the guide holes do not have to be accurate, they do have to be parallel in at least one plane, otherwise the joint will not go together.
As usual, incredibly clever. (Except this time more than usual IMHO.). Two thoughts. If the dowel holes aren’t more or less parallel, it seems like fitting might be problematic (enough flex in dowels?). Perhaps add a brass sleeve to keep jigs working longer. Thanks for the ideas!
If I drill them with a drill press, they are close enough to parallel without having to think about it. With a hand drill, you'd have to be more careful
VERY nice trick. Doubt you even need to add the 45 degree stopper to the dowel jig, just leave an internal 90 degree angle in the wood above the dowel holes. Thank you!
All-thread joining nuts makes for great cheap glue-in-place liners for drill-guides and the already drilled and threaded hole works fairly well as a self-centering guide when drilling out the threads(8mm drill for M8 nut etc) even if you just do it with the nut in a vice and use a battery-drill((using a smaller drill first is better from 6mm and up to get it as straight as possible if you don't have a drill-press/stand).
@@matthiaswandel While stuff like this is something that I would normally 3D print, in wood a hole that is marginally smaller than the largest diameter on the nut it will line itself up rather well in the hole and some polyurethane glue or construction sealant/adhesive(sikaflex/MS-polymer etc) will fill in the gaps and lock it solidly in place(thinking more about dowel/drill jigs in general rather than this one in particular). A joining nut's length is usually slightly shy of 5 times the bolt diameter(2x the diameter on either end + some extra room for leeway) so while a drill press is obviously preferable for drilling it out it is long enough to be fairly well self guiding if you don't have one(a M8 nut is usually 35mm long) so you would have to be rather brutal to see the last half of the length not be lined up/straight/centered well enough when drilling it out with a battery-drill. Ever consider doing some tool/machine builds using laminate flooring as the build material? It's a rather amazing material that is cheap/strong/dimensionally accurate and available everywhere and in many cases its superior to MDF and plywood..
You know you could sleeve those holes with some thin copper (or similar) tubing that would keep them from wallering out. But this is a great idea. I made some similar jigs when doing my cabinets but this idea is much better.
I think that if the holes were significantly out of parrallel when drilling the jig and the dowels were long, you could have trouble inserting the two pieces. But with reasonable clearances on the dowels and holes, and reasonably parrallel holes, the jig will perform well.
A clean and easy way to cut bamboo skewers is to score them along the circumference with a knife and simply break them in half. As a bonus, if the knife is not very sharp, the broken off pieces will have chamfered ends
Simple and elegant, but also considers potential sources of error and reduces them. Great work!
You make mistake cutting mitres?😂
Matthias, your ingenuity will hopefully live on for decades as long as TH-cam is up and your tips will help billions.. I’m confident in saying that.
Those layers of hand drawn paper diagrams at the beginning of the video to explain the jig were top notch. Don't need computer animations for everything.
A great example of why I keep coming back. Not just *how* you do something, *why* (with diagrams)!
Adding detail to tis frame, that’s where I mess it up! 😅
I’m glad you made a point to explain this further. For someone like me that prefers to work in steel than wood it is really helpful to see this kind of explanation!
Hello mate. Fancy meeting you here :)
@@CraigsWorkshop I get around!
@@ironhead65 say no more ! 😉🤣
Genius! I love how you don't need corner clamps, because the dowels keep everything flush. As always I am amazed at your skills. Love to see you make tools and jigs specific for each project. Especially something I have never seen in a store, a corner dowel jig. Love your relentless pursuit of continuous improvements and THANKS for sharing them with us!
I always like it when Matthias has had a little schnapps and tries things like chisel chop sticks to pick up glue squeeze out!
Does he drink regularly? I know he once mentioned in the apple grinder video that he makes his own hard cider, but he never seems inebriated to me.
Said it before and will repeat it again. MATTHIAS WANDEL IS A GENIUS.
Love the DIY creativity of these jigs.
Clever! If the holes are not perfectly square to the cut line when you split the block, they will be misaligned by the amount: kerfwidth * tan(θ) ; and if they aren't parallel they won't be spaced evenly because the different angles will cause different offsets across the kerfwidth. I suggest splitting the block first, then drill the holes so they stay aligned left-right, perhaps tape and superglue to a substrate to drill the holes after splitting. Or just start with 2 blocks.
Don’t waste your time. Most viewers believe that every thing they see is genius, amazing and awesome !!!
Yet another award for extreme cleverness. Thanks so much for coming up with this solution!
Awesome! You never cease to amaze me with your simple yet effective designs. I'll definitely make a set of jigs like this.
I'm not even a woodworker . The videos just relax me so much
What a fantastic, simple solution. I am, as ever, very impressed with your ingenuity. Thank you so much for sharing.
Always entertaining! Thank you for sharing yet another idea. I especially appreciate the end where you showed what failed to work as well.
Burr relief cut is very elegant solution to decreasing potential misalignment. It seems so simple, but when you did it, I got unreasonably enthusiastic. 😄
You still want to drill some fairly parallel holes or you won’t be able to fit the dowels in the opposite piece
Beautiful little video, I feel marginally enlightened and my mood is lifted
That's a great idea, thanks for sharing Matthias.
Maybe a steel bushing glued in a bigger hole can help solve the wear out.
I've watched tons and tons of your videos and all I can say is you are one amazing man.
It’s so cool to see all the things you come up with! Awesome seemingly simple solution!
You saved my ass with that splitting the drill guide trick Matthias. I need to set two stone wings into a quite complicated plane of a stone griffin's body. I'm sure that with a little adaptation this trick will work
Great work and as always easy to watch, thanks. One question, why do you need both pieces? couldn't you just flip the piece to use it for the counter part?
Sir, you are brilliant! Thanks for the simple and elegant tip.
Awesome! But when making these cool custom frames, what's the solution for affordable 'cover' be it glass or some type of plexiglass or what?
Excellent tool, clever execution!
I always enjoy learning about the clever tricks you guys find for making stuff
Correct by construction. No need to measure. Very elegant.
This makes it look like I might actually be able to do this. Love it. Very clear instructions.
How do you plan your time in the workshop? Do you go in without a plan or do you have some or all of it mapped out beforehand?
Awesome jig Matthias! Thanks for sharing!
If you cut the jig piece with the holes before drilling it, you won't have the saw's kerf contributing to misalignment.
If you drill the jig pieces oversized, you can press in a metal bushing for use as a drill guide to prolong the life.
Came here to say exactly this. Probably won't matter a ton (unless your drilling is super wonky), but definitely eliminates some slop.
If the two holes are too far out of parallel, the frame will be hard to assemble anyway. Just make the holes parallel enough, and you won't have to worry about the effect of the kerf
@@liambohl that's true, but if the holes are parallel, but not perpendicular to the cut, the final pieces will assemble, but not line up with the corner of the miter due to the kerf.
Strange that Matthias didn't consider this! He usually does like when making wooden bearing blocks. Make the cut, clamp back together and then drill.
Yeah, was gonna say the same. But if not too far out of parallel it wouldn't matter for woodworking. Metalworking is a whole different world though.
Happy to see you back where have you been all these months finally you're back hope everything is okay thanks for sharing this video
Awesome. Some metal tubing, sleeve/bushing/bearing, in the holes will keep the integrity of the holes. You could make a sets for different dowel sizes. Great idea. Thanks!
Smarty pants! Nah, its actually a brilliant idea, Matthius. I've just bought a standard dowel jig but this definitely looks like the answer to mitre joints, cheers.
Brilliance expressed through simplicity.
Commenting for the algorithm. Love your work. Would be great to see a video on the toys you’ve made the kids.
Beautiful work, Matthias! 😃
Really great idea for the jig!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Clever indeed. Going to have to make one.
Love the fact that clamping is easier.
Thanks!
Very elegant. What glue do you prefer for sticking paper/card to a backing without wrinkling up the paper?
I just used a few dabs of hot glue
I'm really fond of rubber cement/contact cement for that: it's removable if used "wet" (ie. rubber cement mode can be peeled up easily, contact cement mode is permanent), doesn't wrinkle or hold the paper up off the backing any, and it's easy to clean any excess from around the edges of the paper being mounted.
@@joelhollingsworth2374 thanks, I'll give that a go! A number of times I've made a nice frame then marred the end result by using whatever glue is to hand to stick the paper to a backing
Good to see you in my feed again. Not 20 minutes after watching this video I saw a pack of 100 similar skewers - they look like 5mil - in Safeway for $2.99 USD.
Brilliant design! You're a genius. 😊
I use those jam jars for everything too!! Very cool video.
I kind of use them like "one time use" containers. Fill them up with the remainder of varnish, by the time that's used up, the seal isn't good anymore.
i wonder if your can recommend any brand of table saw or what to look out for. hobby furniture and house good stuff in mind, not afraid to buy used, but space is a bit limited.
each time i see stuff that is so simple with a table saw I'd really like to have one.
Whatever you get try to get one with a cast iron top. Some people put table saws on casters but I like mine permanently in place. So it does take up a lot of space. Europeans center their shops around a band saw. Table saws are more of an American thing.
Cool concept for not having to worry about holes being perfectly positioned. I made a jig for my closet build. And now trying to figure out how to make it adjustable for different materials.
I wish I saw this video before I went out and bought an expensive doweling jig. Great video.
This is an awesome jig thank you Matthias. I loved watching this video.
Amazing woodworking video on how to make a framing jig for dowes. BBQ skewer dowels are cheap and super strong.
OK great job and jig, now who was the Artist?
Matt,
This is a wonderful video and this jig reveals your real genius! Nice to see. It was kind of you to share that tip from John. I've never tried that but it looks interesting!
Best Wishes,
Tom K.
Nice jig Matthias. Agree maybe a steel bushing glued in a bigger hole can help solve the wear out.
Finally! Never could figure out a jig for this. Leave it to Matthias to come up with something.
i was thinking about omething similar but … why did you cut it by half and made two of them. I was thinking about one piece with that positioning thingies on both sides. Is it bad idea?
Excellent video!!
You are very clever and smart. You always come up with great low-cost solutions to any woodworking problem.
Fantastic
Woodworking like this is why we come across some great art and the frames last... nice video
Brilliant. Hope I remember this next time i’m trying to dowel joints. Really would work for any doweled joint, not just mitre ones.
Clever little jig that doesn't need to be accurately drilled to make accurate dowel holes. I like it 🙂
I love how he seems to be reusing stuff and not caring about fancy clean tools
If the drill isn't very close to perpendicular when drilling the blocks, like shown in your drawing, you'd have alignment off by half the kerf of the saw blade, wouldn't you? You drilled them on the drill press, so I assume they were quite accurate.
I do think it's a good jig.
Dang that’s a great jig, mind blown
Gettin' closer, Could a pocket hole jig be next?
i was just thinking about this, and lo and behold there's a video. thanks Matthias!
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
Although you say that the guide holes do not have to be accurate, they do have to be parallel in at least one plane, otherwise the joint will not go together.
That's a really nice frame
You are amazing! I love your tips and tricks. But my wife will kill me for freezer trick. 😂
It worked! You have a new subscriber.
You could also draw two center lines at the jig parts and the final parts right?
Wouldn’t you need to make multiple sizes of the drilling fixture to accommodate different sizes of frame stock ?
I should have drilled more than two holes in it
would you make a video on how to make block&tackle out of only wood
Again a fine idea. Well done🌞👨🌾
Matthias do you find it worth making the miter cuts just a hair over 45 to get a cleaner fit?
cleanest fit is at 45 degrees, not over
Why do you need two stop jigs?
Could you not use just one and flip it over?
only if the dowel holes were drilled super precisely
The first picture frame I've seen that could survive the jump test.
Hi, is there any particular advantage to the bamboo dowels over regular dowels in this scenario? Thanks.
Cost!
What? No Sketch up plans for sale?
As usual, incredibly clever. (Except this time more than usual IMHO.). Two thoughts. If the dowel holes aren’t more or less parallel, it seems like fitting might be problematic (enough flex in dowels?). Perhaps add a brass sleeve to keep jigs working longer. Thanks for the ideas!
If I drill them with a drill press, they are close enough to parallel without having to think about it. With a hand drill, you'd have to be more careful
Is it safe?
interesting !
But I have a doubt about 0:16 if these holes are tilted, you will not able to join after ...
Correct, the holes must be parallel!
VERY nice trick. Doubt you even need to add the 45 degree stopper to the dowel jig, just leave an internal 90 degree angle in the wood above the dowel holes. Thank you!
very good, but i do think you should roll your sleeves up especially when using your electric saw.
All-thread joining nuts makes for great cheap glue-in-place liners for drill-guides and the already drilled and threaded hole works fairly well as a self-centering guide when drilling out the threads(8mm drill for M8 nut etc) even if you just do it with the nut in a vice and use a battery-drill((using a smaller drill first is better from 6mm and up to get it as straight as possible if you don't have a drill-press/stand).
Good suggestion. Though that may introduce some inaccuracy, unless I were to have super long nuts and cut those in half with the wood!
@@matthiaswandel While stuff like this is something that I would normally 3D print, in wood a hole that is marginally smaller than the largest diameter on the nut it will line itself up rather well in the hole and some polyurethane glue or construction sealant/adhesive(sikaflex/MS-polymer etc) will fill in the gaps and lock it solidly in place(thinking more about dowel/drill jigs in general rather than this one in particular).
A joining nut's length is usually slightly shy of 5 times the bolt diameter(2x the diameter on either end + some extra room for leeway) so while a drill press is obviously preferable for drilling it out it is long enough to be fairly well self guiding if you don't have one(a M8 nut is usually 35mm long) so you would have to be rather brutal to see the last half of the length not be lined up/straight/centered well enough when drilling it out with a battery-drill.
Ever consider doing some tool/machine builds using laminate flooring as the build material? It's a rather amazing material that is cheap/strong/dimensionally accurate and available everywhere and in many cases its superior to MDF and plywood..
You know you could sleeve those holes with some thin copper (or similar) tubing that would keep them from wallering out. But this is a great idea. I made some similar jigs when doing my cabinets but this idea is much better.
So, who painted it?
4:08 I recognize the jam jar from France. It's surprisingly good jam for a commercially sold item. They do a larger jar in costco
Bonne Maman, if people are curious. Ils sont très simple. Fruits, sucre, jus de citrons.
Congratulations! Very interesting! Tks for share! Im from Brazil. I ve whashed your videos a long time.
Homemade Dowel Max - that doesn’t cost $250. But I do love my Dowel Max though, despite the cost.
Looks like something you could commercialize and make some $$$$$$. You're a pretty smart man.
This is my kind of flip book. 👍🏾
Another fine job Sir
I think that if the holes were significantly out of parrallel when drilling the jig and the dowels were long, you could have trouble inserting the two pieces. But with reasonable clearances on the dowels and holes, and reasonably parrallel holes, the jig will perform well.
Thanks for this, I'll definitely make one in my upcoming framing project
Beautiful man وشكرا
Great to see a picture frame that will also survive a hurricane.
I needed this tip yesterday…
Hmmm... I think you still want the dowel holes to be parallel to one another - otherwise it will bind when you try to join the two pieces..
you didn't hang it straight, oh my god my brain 😭 Nice work 👍
Love the simplicity
hey I like that jam too!
A clean and easy way to cut bamboo skewers is to score them along the circumference with a knife and simply break them in half. As a bonus, if the knife is not very sharp, the broken off pieces will have chamfered ends