Little Mae Jemison is adorable. Cats make trying to work on fiddly bits extra ... entertaining. ;) I've met Dr Jemison 3 times. She is friendly and chatting with her is always a treat.
Oh that's really cool! I was trying to find a way to send her an email to send a picture, but I couldn't find one. She seems like a heck of a cool lady!
Onward we march..mistakes are human..goodness knows I would be making WAY more mistakes than you are! :) Ms. Mae is ADORBS and will make a wonderful new crew member! There is nothing as sweet as a warm kitten napping on you or as cute as a little kitteh discovering the world
I like that silicone coated wire too but I would recommend going down to 30awg for signals because you can strip it without using wire strippers. Just pull the insulation off with your fingers. And the fewer strands means you can tin before inserting through the pcb hole
For solderless breadboarding, I use solid strand wire (not sure the awg I've got, 24?). I need to order some that has silicone so I don't melt the jacket. The stranded wire made this take a lot longer.
If I use the wrong color wire I usually change the notes to show the change, never call it a mistake lol, more a last minute revision, That kitten is soo cute.
Love the new addition to the family they get into all sorts of mischief at that age so cute. One thing that you may want to consider is if your using a bunch of LEDs and a compass how about having addressable LEDs around the compass as heading points IE set red LEDs all around along with either blue or green on the outer side so you can plot a heading say like 56 degrees N'E, and then that led will light up red and then once at that direction the outer led will light giving you a quick glance and know what the status is just share an idea and hey love the amazing work your doing keep it up and look forward in seeing your dream come together.❤🎉
I mentioned a compass rose in the video, I plan to have two of them on the helm (one for wind and one for GPS compass). They'll all be made from red rectangular LEDs.
I quite enjoyed seeing how you are learning about this. While I'm definetly on the software side I do have an interest in hardware. In regards to you mentioning the soldar wick not working so well, make sure you put flux on the wick first, something I picked up from Big Clive mentioning it in passing, before that I had no idea xD Please give Mae extra fuss from me :D
Don't worry, as frustrating as it is even professionals make mistakes, my electrician connected all my solar panels in reverse polarity the other day! MC4 connectors are marked positive and negative, but you need to put the negative connector on the positive cable to the inverter. The positive and negative markings are only for the panels themselves. Glad see you marking progress. I'll keep watching the odd video, but most are too long/technical for me as it not something I'm interested in (how the electronics work), but your overall journey is interesting and electrifying the boat.
@@TheDigitalMermaid No nothing damaged, just his pride. Polarity was checked prior to turning on the isolator, which probably saved a rather expensive Victron MPPT 250/85.
the RGB backlight in the LCDs can also give you a REALLY clear indication of errors and such if anything goes wrong (flashing red/yellow for motor issues, red blue for high sump level. etc.) a little bit more code, but with the STM that shouldn't be an issue ^.^
Oh, see, now that's a reason for having individual control over the backlight colour of each LCD... Currently they're all driven from the same source. Hrm, I need to think about this now.
Its a hard process that requires a lot of time and concentration. The main reasons I was not good at it. Same reasons I can't learn CAD programs now. Best wishes
Great Kitten, I admire what you are trying to do , but on a boat in salt water you maybe better off keeping it simple. I understand how computer people like to make things complex but trouble shooting in rough salt water could become very challenging. Just a thought. Can't wait for the batteries and motor install.
Hi Doug. My $dayjob is high availability, so I am thinking about failure modes constantly... One benefit to this setup is that I can switch between throttles on the fly, something I can't do with my diesel or any existing off the shelf systems. It will also let me flip a switch, move a belt, and be running on an entirely different motor and controller pair (off either throttle, also). I will be making a proper PCB before I install on the boat (or at least before I start travelling), and that board will be either potted or at least conformally coated. Last, I'll have spares of all parts, so if something faults, I take a replacement out of a sealed bag and get back under way. :)
Very cool project. I was able to learn Arduino quickly, but coding makes for very boring videos when you can just as easily read the details online, so I focus on basic circuits in my videos. But, I long ago decided that it's better to use simple circuits as much as possible, and have the Arduino coordinate their activity for automation.
Hi Maddy, glad to see you have your mojo back! One maybe stupid question, why don't you use thin solid wires for soldering, makes your life so much easier. You might even take old UTP cable for this. Just a thought which crossed my mind. Happy tinkering!
The solid wire I've currently got has (I think) abs jacket. Whatever it is, it melts easily and I'm not yet good enough to solder the wires fast enough to avoid melting it. I need to find silicone jacketed single core wire.
looks like you are making great progress. But when you are making Prototype/Perfboards it's way easier to make the connection with solid core wire instead of stranded wire.
Aye, for sure it would be. As I mentioned, the trouble was that I had to choose between solid core with a melty jacket, or stranded with a silicone jacket. I'm not yet good/fast enough to solder without melting the jacket.
Tell me if you think I am having a brain fart, I won't mind. I was an embedded systems developer for 35+ years (embedded graphics and cellular telecommunications, including host side DMA drivers and various other "glue" code). While putting the switches on the SPI bus is a great idea, having to poll for their status may not be the win you think it will be. I am guessing that changes in switch state are going to be a *very* rare thing in the entire scheme of things. Therefore, having a change on the SPI bus trigger an interrupt is going to take very little CPU cycles to interpret and dispatch a handler. On the other hand, not having the switches on an interrupt means that you have to have a polling loop, which will take CPU cycles to determine if anything has changed even if nothing has, probably taking much more CPU cycles than if an occasional interrupt has to process the same data. Even if you set up the switch state change to DMA, you don't have to have DMA involved in *writing* to LED's. Email me off line if you want to discuss.
I'll fully admit, I don't yet know enough to argue one approach over the other. There is a polling loop (Under the 'experimenting' branch on the MR github, panel.c/h, I'll reply again with the link, so this reply doesn't get clobbered if youtube removes it). I'm following the guidance of my friend Andrew who does mainly audio hardware work, and I know that's sensitive to timing. It's possibly I explained what I'll be doing poorly in the video. I'm not sure if it matters, but I told him about the various LED things I'll be driving from the same SPI bus, so perhaps he's given me guidance based mainly on that, and reading the switches is secondary?
@@rklauco I've not tried to build my own I2C devices yet... How would the MCP23017 work, with such a large number of switches and LEDs? When I started searching for how to solve this, I kept seeing shift registers recommended fairly often. I don't know either solution well enough to say which I think is better, so I'm curious on your take of the I2C > SPI/shift registers.
@@TheDigitalMermaid It is 16 bit GPIO - each bit can be configured independently using 4 i2c commands. Really simple. And you can put up to 8 of those on amsingle bus - potentially 128 GPIOs. If you are ok with only 8, you can also use MCP23008. Great experience with both on my end, I'll be happy to help.
HOWdy T-D-M, ... Pretty Kitty = Miss MAY ... My poor deceased EX-Wife left me with 29 Cats so this Summer = I have quite a few KITTENS ( on 7 1/2 acres of Woods & a Stream ) Marvelous "mind" you have to make SENSE of all your SWITCHES ! It is still entertaining to watch YOU figure it all out I blew my Mazda MIATA up my 2nd last trip to ONTARIO / now I pilot a PRIUS Two 🙂 COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA - USA ...
You're not wrong, but I've worked in IT for close to three decades now, and if I only drank away from computers, I'd have crashed out ages ago. I do keep accidental damage coverage on my laptops though (and even has to use it once...)
The one thing I have learned is that if you can say, with some confidence, that the kids are saying things a certain way these days ... they have moved on. 😅
Little Mae Jemison is adorable. Cats make trying to work on fiddly bits extra ... entertaining. ;)
I've met Dr Jemison 3 times. She is friendly and chatting with her is always a treat.
Oh that's really cool! I was trying to find a way to send her an email to send a picture, but I couldn't find one. She seems like a heck of a cool lady!
@@TheDigitalMermaid They don't give out their personal email addresses. The best way to contact them is via social media.
Glad to see Mae being very helpful through the entire process 👀
Great show ,nice to see your new family member
I'm glad you enjoyed it, Bodma!
Mae is an excellent choice of name for your little hooligan 😊
Onward we march..mistakes are human..goodness knows I would be making WAY more mistakes than you are! :) Ms. Mae is ADORBS and will make a wonderful new crew member! There is nothing as sweet as a warm kitten napping on you or as cute as a little kitteh discovering the world
its the prosess i love seeing . if your going to do it do it right and learn and show as you go . keep doing as your doing
I like that silicone coated wire too but I would recommend going down to 30awg for signals because you can strip it without using wire strippers. Just pull the insulation off with your fingers. And the fewer strands means you can tin before inserting through the pcb hole
Oh what a cutie!! And the kitten is nice too!
I always use wire wrap wire (30 awg) teflon coated for bread boarding. It works fine for signals.
For solderless breadboarding, I use solid strand wire (not sure the awg I've got, 24?). I need to order some that has silicone so I don't melt the jacket. The stranded wire made this take a lot longer.
I have been enjoyed, so thank you for delivering.
Chilli seed essential oil may help with the wire chewing. You could use a cotton ball to apply it sparingly to strategic wires.
Don't get too down, my big project started in 2017, you are making progress its all good even if not in the water this year.
You have come so far in just a few months! I love watching your journey!
Hi, this kind of work requires maximum focus to avoid mistakes. At least for me haha. Great to see you keep getting more and more professional!
always enjoy your playing with the cats.
If I use the wrong color wire I usually change the notes to show the change, never call it a mistake lol, more a last minute revision, That kitten is soo cute.
If it was the first use of that colour, I would have, but I already used the colours on other boards, too.
@@TheDigitalMermaid Makes sense to keep the convention easier to keep track of circuit routes
Love the new addition to the family they get into all sorts of mischief at that age so cute. One thing that you may want to consider is if your using a bunch of LEDs and a compass how about having addressable LEDs around the compass as heading points IE set red LEDs all around along with either blue or green on the outer side so you can plot a heading say like 56 degrees N'E, and then that led will light up red and then once at that direction the outer led will light giving you a quick glance and know what the status is just share an idea and hey love the amazing work your doing keep it up and look forward in seeing your dream come together.❤🎉
I mentioned a compass rose in the video, I plan to have two of them on the helm (one for wind and one for GPS compass). They'll all be made from red rectangular LEDs.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
such an adorable kitten .
I quite enjoyed seeing how you are learning about this. While I'm definetly on the software side I do have an interest in hardware. In regards to you mentioning the soldar wick not working so well, make sure you put flux on the wick first, something I picked up from Big Clive mentioning it in passing, before that I had no idea xD
Please give Mae extra fuss from me :D
Oh, I really should have thought of that... >_< haha! Extra scritches delivered!
Cats and electronics, two of my favourite things...
Don't worry, as frustrating as it is even professionals make mistakes, my electrician connected all my solar panels in reverse polarity the other day! MC4 connectors are marked positive and negative, but you need to put the negative connector on the positive cable to the inverter. The positive and negative markings are only for the panels themselves. Glad see you marking progress. I'll keep watching the odd video, but most are too long/technical for me as it not something I'm interested in (how the electronics work), but your overall journey is interesting and electrifying the boat.
Ooph, I feel bad for the tech. Was much damaged? If so, did the tech have insurance?
@@TheDigitalMermaid No nothing damaged, just his pride. Polarity was checked prior to turning on the isolator, which probably saved a rather expensive Victron MPPT 250/85.
For very important inputs I’d use two switches of opposite handedness and make sure both change state.
the RGB backlight in the LCDs can also give you a REALLY clear indication of errors and such if anything goes wrong (flashing red/yellow for motor issues, red blue for high sump level. etc.)
a little bit more code, but with the STM that shouldn't be an issue ^.^
Oh, see, now that's a reason for having individual control over the backlight colour of each LCD... Currently they're all driven from the same source. Hrm, I need to think about this now.
Its a hard process that requires a lot of time and concentration. The main reasons I was not good at it. Same reasons I can't learn CAD programs now.
Best wishes
I’m going to laugh my head off if that coffee goes into your laptop and then say, I told you so! But at least you’re using a coaster 😂
Wouldn't be the first or tenth time.
Great Kitten, I admire what you are trying to do , but on a boat in salt water you maybe better off keeping it simple. I understand how computer people like to make things complex but trouble shooting in rough salt water could become very challenging. Just a thought. Can't wait for the batteries and motor install.
Hi Doug. My $dayjob is high availability, so I am thinking about failure modes constantly... One benefit to this setup is that I can switch between throttles on the fly, something I can't do with my diesel or any existing off the shelf systems. It will also let me flip a switch, move a belt, and be running on an entirely different motor and controller pair (off either throttle, also). I will be making a proper PCB before I install on the boat (or at least before I start travelling), and that board will be either potted or at least conformally coated. Last, I'll have spares of all parts, so if something faults, I take a replacement out of a sealed bag and get back under way. :)
Very cool project. I was able to learn Arduino quickly, but coding makes for very boring videos when you can just as easily read the details online, so I focus on basic circuits in my videos. But, I long ago decided that it's better to use simple circuits as much as possible, and have the Arduino coordinate their activity for automation.
Hi Maddy, glad to see you have your mojo back! One maybe stupid question, why don't you use thin solid wires for soldering, makes your life so much easier. You might even take old UTP cable for this. Just a thought which crossed my mind. Happy tinkering!
The solid wire I've currently got has (I think) abs jacket. Whatever it is, it melts easily and I'm not yet good enough to solder the wires fast enough to avoid melting it. I need to find silicone jacketed single core wire.
looks like you are making great progress. But when you are making Prototype/Perfboards it's way easier to make the connection with solid core wire instead of stranded wire.
Aye, for sure it would be. As I mentioned, the trouble was that I had to choose between solid core with a melty jacket, or stranded with a silicone jacket. I'm not yet good/fast enough to solder without melting the jacket.
Tell me if you think I am having a brain fart, I won't mind. I was an embedded systems developer for 35+ years (embedded graphics and cellular telecommunications, including host side DMA drivers and various other "glue" code). While putting the switches on the SPI bus is a great idea, having to poll for their status may not be the win you think it will be. I am guessing that changes in switch state are going to be a *very* rare thing in the entire scheme of things. Therefore, having a change on the SPI bus trigger an interrupt is going to take very little CPU cycles to interpret and dispatch a handler. On the other hand, not having the switches on an interrupt means that you have to have a polling loop, which will take CPU cycles to determine if anything has changed even if nothing has, probably taking much more CPU cycles than if an occasional interrupt has to process the same data. Even if you set up the switch state change to DMA, you don't have to have DMA involved in *writing* to LED's. Email me off line if you want to discuss.
I'll fully admit, I don't yet know enough to argue one approach over the other. There is a polling loop (Under the 'experimenting' branch on the MR github, panel.c/h, I'll reply again with the link, so this reply doesn't get clobbered if youtube removes it). I'm following the guidance of my friend Andrew who does mainly audio hardware work, and I know that's sensitive to timing. It's possibly I explained what I'll be doing poorly in the video. I'm not sure if it matters, but I told him about the various LED things I'll be driving from the same SPI bus, so perhaps he's given me guidance based mainly on that, and reading the switches is secondary?
Github: github.com/digimer/Mermaids-Rest/tree/experimenting/experimenting/Core
@@TheDigitalMermaid Yes, my take is that reading the switches is definitely secondary
Usually polling switches at 50-100ms intervals is good enough that you almost won't notice the delay and takes practically no CPU time.
@@MinecraftCris0612 I think it's currently 100ms, but I'd need to check the code.
Terry W. Virts and E. Michael Fincke astronauts that also appeared in star trek. They were an episode of Star trek Enterprise together.
Aaaah, I've not had a chance to watch Enterprise yet. Good to know, thank you. :)
You know how to get more viewers, just show a cute little furry helper ♥️
When will you install the massive battery in your boat??
Alas, no soon enough... I need to get the motors mounted and then installed in the boat so that I can confirm how much space I have to work with.
MP23017 - i2c interface, configurable interrupt, much more reliable than shift registers.
Typo - MCP23017. Sorry...
@@rklauco I've not tried to build my own I2C devices yet... How would the MCP23017 work, with such a large number of switches and LEDs? When I started searching for how to solve this, I kept seeing shift registers recommended fairly often. I don't know either solution well enough to say which I think is better, so I'm curious on your take of the I2C > SPI/shift registers.
Hah, I recommended MCP23S17 just now in another comment and scrolled to see this. S17 is the SPI version, 017 is the I2C version.
@@TheDigitalMermaid It is 16 bit GPIO - each bit can be configured independently using 4 i2c commands. Really simple. And you can put up to 8 of those on amsingle bus - potentially 128 GPIOs. If you are ok with only 8, you can also use MCP23008. Great experience with both on my end, I'll be happy to help.
HOWdy T-D-M, ...
Pretty Kitty = Miss MAY ...
My poor deceased EX-Wife left me with 29 Cats
so this Summer = I have quite a few KITTENS ( on 7 1/2 acres of Woods & a Stream )
Marvelous "mind" you have to make SENSE of all your SWITCHES !
It is still entertaining to watch YOU figure it all out
I blew my Mazda MIATA up my 2nd last trip to ONTARIO / now I pilot a PRIUS Two 🙂
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA - USA
...
Awe, need to get those kitties neutered!
If the wires are supposed to be yellow, just paint the green ones with yellow model enamel paint. Don’t worry about it.
The yellow were supposed to go to pin 1, not 2, so some way or another, I had to rework it. As I mentioned though, it was good practice.
the compuyer and cofe is dangerose
You're not wrong, but I've worked in IT for close to three decades now, and if I only drank away from computers, I'd have crashed out ages ago. I do keep accidental damage coverage on my laptops though (and even has to use it once...)
the computer
The one thing I have learned is that if you can say, with some confidence, that the kids are saying things a certain way these days ... they have moved on. 😅
Howdy!