I remember that if any corner is higher than the others, always start laying that corner first. It's easier to fill in under the other corners than trying to remove material from the high one. Very good video.
I'm here friend watching your video from Ancaster in canada 🇨🇦. Very interesting in see the way you explain all the work. I like that. I do renovation here in Canada. Good to learn always. I'm keeping watching your videos for more learning. God bless.
Not only you talk well, you demo details; not only you demo, you explain things every step of the way; not only you explain things, you edit highlights and capture key numbers. Unlike garbage contents trying to be funny about serious business of DIYers spending their time and money, you selfishly are sharing knowledge to help people. I don’t have a garage to build or am capable of doing so but sir, THANK YOU!
Hey hey Josh!!!! Hello from Friday, April 28, 2023. 300k subscribers!!!!! Hope you have a glorious weekend and thanks again for your excellent channel and all the work you have put into this glorious channel.
Hey Thor! It’s hard to believe seeing 300,000 subscribers! I appreciate you stopping by and watching my content for the past several years. Hopefully we see 1 million subscribers one day! Hope everything is going well with you. Take care!
Awesome. The pipe for re-bar bending is just plain cheap and efficient. Why didn't I think to use the same pipe I have in m\y garage! You duh man, Josh!
hi. Great video. would you need to add drainage pipes on the outside parameter of the block? And would you set it right on the 24" footer? I did not see any provision for drainage.
The bolts that are in the 6" block and they are sunk into the cell of the foundation: how far down is that? Sorry I'm a complete newbie to masonry! note: you are the best teacher I have ever saw! Thank You
It would work for a basic two story in my area. Check your local codes to get the building specs for your area if you have questions. I hope that helps!
Great video I love it and I am learning a lot from you thank you. When you figure the yardage for the cement do you only do two sides length times width I think it's two sides you do or do you need to do all the sides at them all together?
Your walls above the 8" block are not fully supported due to the transition to 6" block. Either use all 8" block, or, better, add a bonding perimeter beam with rebar at the top of the last 8" course. The latter will add considerable strength to your wall.
@@TheExcellentLaborer No. You miss my point; you whacked rebar into the ground as height guides, and then concreted over them.... thus, you have a piece of rebar every two foot that will expand as it rusts...no...??
How would I deal with footings in the arctic northeast? Says the frost line is 60" deep. Do I really have to have the top of my footing below 60" under? That is a lot of foundation needed to build up on top of it.
I'm from d Caribbean n i appreciate d video but i was wondering y not just put up some wooden profiles to run d block rather than having to move d blocks around so much trying to establish d corners?
Things are done differently from when l were building block walls in the 80's. No rebar or metal was allowed to touch the dirt. Were the rebar used to hold the line left sticking into the ground?
yes this is really silly...by the time rust has any bad affect, ANY...100 years will have passed!!There is no engineering reason this should have been a standard, probably the reasoning of one man and it caught on,,,,there are many overkill things like this .
What if you can't get a diagonal because there are things in the middle of rectangle and you can't drag a tape diag across the area? Best way to square it?
I thought I was being stubborn hanging on to my old transit. You really need to update to a rotary laser. Way faster and I believe to be more accurate.
I think they are equally as accurate. The rotary laser level is definitely more convenient. I would recommend the rotary laser level over the old transit. Thanks for watching Kevin!
Not a fan of putting steel rebar in concrete as it aids in concrete degradation. So, was surprised that steel rebar was installed to protrude from the bottom of the footer. Not surprised that the "inspector" had no issue with it. These "grade pins" will corrode over time and this corrosion will likely compromise the footer at those points. Your corner rebar placement was incorrect. At the corners you cross the inside to the outside and outside to the inside. Just a point for future builds. Don't feel bad. Many "professional" concrete TH-camrs don't get it correct and "inspectors" don't have a clue.
Anyone; I have an existing shed/garage which is sitting on railway ties. I need to remove clay about 4ft b4 putting in a concrete slab. Do I also need to excavate under where the blocks will be?
quicker to lay blocks for the DIY!! poured walls almost always get hired done at great GREAT cost...l would never build a block basement ,but this will be under a slab...used blocks can b e bought cheap and buried so they arent seen!
Thank you Tyler! The anchor bolts are the galvanized 1/2” x 8“ anchor bolts. The parging is the same mortar mixture the mason used to set the blocks. I believe the ratio they used is a three parts sand one part mortar mix. I hope that helps!
it just makes it easier to grade!!thats all!some guys think it helps drainage ,but WHY WOULD YOU EVER WANT WATER MOVING under a slab? THe same goes for the slab ..rock is easy ,but not needed.
I would not use the ledge to hold up the slab from the foundation. If you have settling, you’re going to want to see that by your slab dropping. You can slab jack the voids and make your slab level again. Don’t cheat yourself out of the truth.
When we were doing Masonry work we never once had a builder mark our corners . Going back as far as 1985 I can’t remember a builder ever having our corners all marked out. We had to do all that for the same price. We get the plans or the measurements and have to do it ourselves.
A string is a line and a line is a string, no need to name it twice. It's like saying "do you want to take a ride in my new car automobile?" Or "do you want to come to my house home?"
You are welcome! I do not have any merch yet. I do plan on it in the future. I definitely need to get a good merch line going. Keep your eyes peeled! Thanks for watching!
Probably the best th-cam.com/users/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU on building a shed is hardly found ever . And Ryan takes the mystery out of different types of foundation options, etc. He even shows how to build shed with different designs. Very comprehensive, covering different roofing materials, siding, etc.
Note: wear safety glasses if concrete is loose cause if you get a splash in the eye you’ll know it! All your instructions are like being in trade school. Thank you
As a retired contractor from California, I’m watching this video in the first 10 minutes. I just see major issues with it. Any of that rebar going in the dirt is gonna cause cancer rust and come up into the footing those metal chairs same thing they’re in contact with dirt and they’re gonna rest and they’re gonna go up and then rust out all the other horizontal rebar, your laps are where you lap. The two rears together are supposed to be 24 inches minimum.
Thats actually a level, not a transit. There are also transit/levels, which can be used as both a transit and a level. The difference is that a transit has a dial similar to a compass, which can be used for survey work or turning 90 degree angles when staking out buildings and setting up batter boards. In todays world, most contractors use a lazer level for things like setting grades and pouring concrete. The advantage of using a lazer is that only one person is necessary for setting up the grade pins. In this case, had batter boards been set up originally, the only thing necessary to do for establishing the corner locations would be to run lines from batter board to batter board and drop a plumb bob and drive a nail in the footing where the lines cross at each corner. Which is a one man job. Mind you, im not challenging your knowledge or ability, because you obviously have building experience. But fact is that staking out a building, and setting up dig depths, floor levels etc. is a process that many construction workers have little to no knowledge about.
I thought the same thing you don't want your slab to be one with your block wall because of expansion it will basically tear your block wall to pieces over time You want an expansion joint across the perimeter of your slab between the block and the slab correct me if I'm wrong
I would frame is a more cost efficient way of building. Also, I like the ability to install vinyl siding over the structure and wood makes that easy. Thanks for watching!
also temperature... wood with insulation is much easier to adjust temps compared to cinder block .... the cinder block is partly why our water froze.. it got cold enough that even 500 watts of heat couldn't keep it area warm enough.
One of the most informative videos I’ve ever seen, please keep up the great videos, thank you
I remember that if any corner is higher than the others, always start laying that corner first. It's easier to fill in under the other corners than trying to remove material from the high one. Very good video.
Thank you for taking the time to explain all of this and to create the Amazon store for needed supplies. You have helped alot of people.
My great grandpappi once told me "son, if you can build a house worth living in, you can build a life worth livin".
That is the mfkn truth yo grandpappi told you
That’s one good grandpappi you got there
I'm here friend watching your video from Ancaster in canada 🇨🇦. Very interesting in see the way you explain all the work. I like that. I do renovation here in Canada. Good to learn always. I'm keeping watching your videos for more learning. God bless.
Very awesome video. IDK about that rebar set up being optimal but I love the simplicity and as you mentioned it passes inspection.
rear dump concrete trucks are a pain even with very good drivers, however, front dump is a dream, even with avg driver.
Thank you for all of this i want to start my own business doing construction eventually and definitely excited that i found this channel
Your the most helpful man on TH-cam
I appreciate that Chase!
Not only you talk well, you demo details; not only you demo, you explain things every step of the way; not only you explain things, you edit highlights and capture key numbers. Unlike garbage contents trying to be funny about serious business of DIYers spending their time and money, you selfishly are sharing knowledge to help people. I don’t have a garage to build or am capable of doing so but sir, THANK YOU!
Selflessly* I think
Your are saving me thousands in contractor work for my concrete!! Great stuff, cant wait for next video
I’m glad I can help you save money. Thanks for watching my content Dave!
This is the best explained footing video I have seen. The audio quality was top notch and your explanations were clear and concise. Well done!
I appreciate that John! I put a lot of time and details into these videos to make them as comprehensive as possible. Stay tuned for more!
Very helpful Thank you for sharing this
Lovely explanation
Thank you soo much for this, I really do feel pretty confident to attempt this
amazing job bro i learned allot from you
Awesome! I’m glad I could help. Stay tuned for more!
Great Job, this channel really addresses the Cornerstones of great building!
Thank you for your support! Take care!
Hey hey Josh!!!! Hello from Friday, April 28, 2023. 300k subscribers!!!!! Hope you have a glorious weekend and thanks again for your excellent channel and all the work you have put into this glorious channel.
Hey Thor! It’s hard to believe seeing 300,000 subscribers! I appreciate you stopping by and watching my content for the past several years. Hopefully we see 1 million subscribers one day! Hope everything is going well with you. Take care!
Awesome. The pipe for re-bar bending is just plain cheap and efficient. Why didn't I think to use the same pipe I have in m\y garage! You duh man, Josh!
Fantástico video. Muy buen trabajo
This is great. Enjoying watching a process I've never seen before.
Thank you, Jim! I plan on doing every move step by step in this series. Stay tuned for more!
hi. Great video. would you need to add drainage pipes on the outside parameter of the block? And would you set it right on the 24" footer? I did not see any provision for drainage.
The bolts that are in the 6" block and they are sunk into the cell of the foundation: how far down is that? Sorry I'm a complete newbie to masonry!
note: you are the best teacher I have ever saw! Thank You
Very professional 🏫
I see you from Kazakstan. I am a builder and I hope to imigrate to Canada. Your videos help me to learn English
I’m so glad I can help you!
Does your helper have a name? Super high quality video, thanks for sharing.
Nice job..i learned from your video tx!
can this medthod be used to build a small foot print two story? Say a 40 by 50 or 40 by 60 two story?
It would work for a basic two story in my area. Check your local codes to get the building specs for your area if you have questions. I hope that helps!
this series gonna be great
Thanks Nater! I want to make it full and complete and leave out NOT ONE detail. Stay tuned!
Great video I love it and I am learning a lot from you thank you. When you figure the yardage for the cement do you only do two sides length times width I think it's two sides you do or do you need to do all the sides at them all together?
Good man keep do what you doing 🇸🇦🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️🏗️
This channel is super helpful thank you for taking the time to make these videos
Thank you, Mason! I do try to make my videos detailed so people can easily understand them. I appreciate you for watching my content. Take care!
Wonderful as always. Great detail.
I appreciate that Civilian Dan! Thanks for stopping by and watching. Take care!
Can work with you
YES!!! Thank you, this video will be in my saved list so I can reference all this great information!! Thank you thank you!!!!
It’s been a blast subscribing and you do an incredible job educating
Thank you Thor! I love making these videos. Thanks for watching!
Nice!
Thank you Joey!
@The Excellent Laborer learned a lot thank you . Did not see other video for poring concrete.
Another excellent video. Thank you for the details, especially the why and how. Keep up the great work.
Your walls above the 8" block are not fully supported due to the transition to 6" block. Either use all 8" block, or, better, add a bonding perimeter beam with rebar at the top of the last 8" course. The latter will add considerable strength to your wall.
Can u give a step video on how to run your ground wire in the footer and up in the meter box for your rough in
Isn't there a required length of overlap of the rebar?
Working by oneself, I use an electronic water level. 🙂
Don’t get the batteries wet.
I was under the impression that rebar rusts if in contact with the ground....is that not an issue here....?
Often times rebar is embedded in concrete. It is standard practice. They now make a fiberglass rebar that is rustproof. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer No. You miss my point; you whacked rebar into the ground as height guides, and then concreted over them.... thus, you have a piece of rebar every two foot that will expand as it rusts...no...??
MashaAllah great footing🇸🇦🏗️🏫🏫🏫🏫🏫🏫🕌
How would I deal with footings in the arctic northeast? Says the frost line is 60" deep. Do I really have to have the top of my footing below 60" under? That is a lot of foundation needed to build up on top of it.
Dam you made that seem so simple you explained it simple your very knowledgeable who taught you?
Can you still add a footing on an existing concrete slab ?
Do you have a link for that transit?
You used the transit for the excavation. Why don't you use it to set the grade all the grade pins??
If i dont have a laser would a simple line level work?
I'm from d Caribbean n i appreciate d video but i was wondering y not just put up some wooden profiles to run d block rather than having to move d blocks around so much trying to establish d corners?
did you install the ufer ground? It may become an issue
I did not install that because I will be using the grounding system from the main panel box. I will be doing a video on that later. Stay tuned!
Is this a good method for building an actual house foundation?
Yes, this is definitely the same idea that could be used to build a house. I hope that helps!
Things are done differently from when l were building block walls in the 80's. No rebar or metal was allowed to touch the dirt. Were the rebar used to hold the line left sticking into the ground?
yes this is really silly...by the time rust has any bad affect, ANY...100 years will have passed!!There is no engineering reason this should have been a standard, probably the reasoning of one man and it caught on,,,,there are many overkill things like this .
At 12:14 what are those holes of concrete being poured for? I don't get it
Do you pull your grade pins out after you pour and level?
The grade pin will stay in the concrete. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Awesome, thanks for these videos.
Good work sir, appreciated. What’s the name of the software you were using for the calculations? Thanks
I need to build up my area where garage is going, like 2-3 feet. Can i do this same foundation layout in sand? How? Any tips?
What if you can't get a diagonal because there are things in the middle of rectangle and you can't drag a tape diag across the area? Best way to square it?
I thought I was being stubborn hanging on to my old transit. You really need to update to a rotary laser. Way faster and I believe to be more accurate.
I think they are equally as accurate. The rotary laser level is definitely more convenient. I would recommend the rotary laser level over the old transit. Thanks for watching Kevin!
I kept my transit forever... but then I broke it so I got a laser! Yeah should have went to the laser long ago.
No CMU dowels or reinforcing?
de ce il pui pe batran sa care bolovanii?
Not a fan of putting steel rebar in concrete as it aids in concrete degradation. So, was surprised that steel rebar was installed to protrude from the bottom of the footer.
Not surprised that the "inspector" had no issue with it. These "grade pins" will corrode over time and this corrosion will likely compromise the footer at those points.
Your corner rebar placement was incorrect. At the corners you cross the inside to the outside and outside to the inside. Just a point for future builds.
Don't feel bad. Many "professional" concrete TH-camrs don't get it correct and "inspectors" don't have a clue.
Those blocks are huge. Here we mostly use 6 inches max 😅. Building code allows
Anyone;
I have an existing shed/garage which is sitting on railway ties. I need to remove clay about 4ft b4 putting in a concrete slab. Do I also need to excavate under where the blocks will be?
Everyone in my area uses forms for footings. I'm wondering why.
And construction work must be paid correctly with monty! Yes yes yes . . .
love this guy. If i had a dollar for every time he said "now im gonna", id be rich
Is it better idea to pour concrete foundation or to use concrete blocks? What is pros/conc except of price? Sorry for bad english
quicker to lay blocks for the DIY!! poured walls almost always get hired done at great GREAT cost...l would never build a block basement ,but this will be under a slab...used blocks can b e bought cheap and buried so they arent seen!
Another excellent video. What did they use for the anchor bolts into the concrete block and the parging?
Thank you Tyler! The anchor bolts are the galvanized 1/2” x 8“ anchor bolts. The parging is the same mortar mixture the mason used to set the blocks. I believe the ratio they used is a three parts sand one part mortar mix. I hope that helps!
I was expecting you to place the dowels that goes inside the CMU walls
What is the purpose of the rod chair and rebar in the footers?
Chairs hood the rebar up off the bottom and in the middle of the concrete footings. Rebar is for tensil strength
I tie the chair to grade pins, to keep from sliding left or right, especially even concrete cones pouring in
Why didn't you use ICF blocks instead?
What's the name of the online calculator?
If you go to calculator. net, then go to concrete calculator, you will find it. I hope that helps!
Thank you! By the way I enjoyed the video it was big time helpful!
Yaatik essaha
Steel coming up out of the ground into the footing would be a problem if I were inspecting this footing..
Why?
@@toddodom1829Because the steel is gonna rust.
Great video just a quick question, why do footings not have to have gravel in the trench before they are poured? Thank you.
it just makes it easier to grade!!thats all!some guys think it helps drainage ,but WHY WOULD YOU EVER WANT WATER MOVING under a slab? THe same goes for the slab ..rock is easy ,but not needed.
40 times the bar diameter for laps. 1/2 in / #4 bar would be a min. Of 20 inch lap.
i like how you say save a ton of money lol
I would not use the ledge to hold up the slab from the foundation. If you have settling, you’re going to want to see that by your slab dropping. You can slab jack the voids and make your slab level again. Don’t cheat yourself out of the truth.
When we were doing Masonry work we never once had a builder mark our corners . Going back as far as 1985 I can’t remember a builder ever having our corners all marked out. We had to do all that for the same price. We get the plans or the measurements and have to do it ourselves.
I'm pretty sure that "transit" is actually a builder's level.
A string is a line and a line is a string, no need to name it twice. It's like saying "do you want to take a ride in my new car automobile?" Or "do you want to come to my house home?"
Thank you Sir 🫡
You are welcome!
Forms way faster and easier
You must have time I'd just use a cutting wheel and grinder to make the groove
Thanks man. Going to do a garage too and this helps alot! Question: Do you have any other hats? Do you sell hat space for advertising? Just curious 😅
You are welcome! I do not have any merch yet. I do plan on it in the future. I definitely need to get a good merch line going. Keep your eyes peeled! Thanks for watching!
Probably the best th-cam.com/users/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU on building a shed is hardly found ever . And Ryan takes the mystery out of different types of foundation options, etc. He even shows how to build shed with different designs. Very comprehensive, covering different roofing materials, siding, etc.
Note: wear safety glasses if concrete is loose cause if you get a splash in the eye you’ll know it! All your instructions are like being in trade school. Thank you
As a retired contractor from California, I’m watching this video in the first 10 minutes. I just see major issues with it. Any of that rebar going in the dirt is gonna cause cancer rust and come up into the footing those metal chairs same thing they’re in contact with dirt and they’re gonna rest and they’re gonna go up and then rust out all the other horizontal rebar, your laps are where you lap. The two rears together are supposed to be 24 inches minimum.
Dont want your floor flowing into the block walls.
Thats actually a level, not a transit.
There are also transit/levels, which can be used as both a transit and a level.
The difference is that a transit has a dial similar to a compass, which can be used for survey work or turning 90 degree angles when staking out buildings and setting up batter boards.
In todays world, most contractors use a lazer level for things like setting grades and pouring concrete.
The advantage of using a lazer is that only one person is necessary for setting up the grade pins.
In this case, had batter boards been set up originally, the only thing necessary to do for establishing the corner locations would be to run lines from batter board to batter board and drop a plumb bob and drive a nail in the footing where the lines cross at each corner.
Which is a one man job.
Mind you, im not challenging your knowledge or ability, because you obviously have building experience.
But fact is that staking out a building, and setting up dig depths, floor levels etc. is a process that many construction workers have little to no knowledge about.
Why are you building a garage in the hole?
I wanted the garage to be on grade with my house, which is on a slight slope. I hope that helps!
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm thought you had to have a minimum 21 inches at the splice in the rebar. Looked like you just had around 6 inches
dont think you want concrete going in to block cover with felt and stone
I thought the same thing you don't want your slab to be one with your block wall because of expansion it will basically tear your block wall to pieces over time
You want an expansion joint across the perimeter of your slab between the block and the slab correct me if I'm wrong
Your using a BUILDER'S LEVEL not a Transit.
And you are using “your” not “you’re”
@@darrenkaragu5210 I see what ya did there 😂
He did not show when they cemented the blocks on the foundation. 😢. I don’t care about the delivery of the material
Why use wood frame construction at all? Just make the whole garage a block wall
I would frame is a more cost efficient way of building. Also, I like the ability to install vinyl siding over the structure and wood makes that easy. Thanks for watching!
also temperature... wood with insulation is much easier to adjust temps compared to cinder block .... the cinder block is partly why our water froze.. it got cold enough that even 500 watts of heat couldn't keep it area warm enough.
Started out understandable but im gone you lost me.
Im very happy to se this video MashaAllah 🏗️🕌🏫