OK, I’m now watching what maybe about to be the best video on TH-cam? No kidding there’s so many people out there that just doesn’t understand mainly the DIY Transmission builders but also quite a few Transmission shops. when my wife’s car tore up and needed a 6L45 transmission it continued having problems at the third time returning to the shop. I asked the guy did you vacuum test the pump and valve body he said that’s a bunch of hype and totally unnecessary when you’re rebuilding the pump and entirely there’s absolutely no need to vacuum test it. in the end The guy was not properly programming the tecum and he was buying them used and charging us for a new one.
Thanks, man - appreciate the kind words and glad t his vid has helped you! Many transmission shops don't want to take the time to test and inspect parts because they figure the gamble on it not coming back is worth the risk in leaving shit to chance...Obviously, that's not how I work as I like going to bed knowing that I've mitigated as much job risk as possible for every transmission that I build so chances of a comeback are as low as possible.
Once again, great video, Nick. Do you ever use the Transgo drop-in PR valve that doesn't require reaming? That's my go-to valve. The Transgo drop-in valve usually gains 2-3 inches of vacuum.
Thanks, Kevin! I have used this valve before: transgo.com/product-details/4l60e-pressure-regulator-valve/ I havent tried their oversized valve as of yet but may give it a whirl on the next one that has a really worn out bore.
Nick, i am asking this question in this video becasue it is relevant here. 1. I thought torque converter passage is from valve body to input shaft thats get connected to torque converter where oil is feed is applied and locked. Pls bear with me, I am newbie. but you said in this video it has inboard and outboard for TCC lokup. can u pls telll m how does the torque converter clutch applied from hydralic passage stand piont with respect to inboard and outboard. 2. when u assemble transmission with new or reman torque converter, how do u test if torque converter clutch is applied correctly, Thanks
Good questions, here are my responses: 1. The TCC regulator valve regulates the flow of apply oil to the converter clutch, among other things...The actual apply fluid pathway is through the input shaft...The TCC itself is actuated via the TCC apply valve in the pump via the TCC solenoid and those two things use the regulated apply fluid from the TCC regulator valve. Hope that helps. 2. The TCC itself is air-checked by the torque converter builder. Since I don't have the tool and never had any issues with his converters, I don't do any check myself but it's prob a tool I should have. Thanks again for watching, Sivucit!
@ thanks can u confirm below sequence . 1. Lockup solenoid activates apply valve in pump. 2. Apply valve in pump control TCC regulator valve. 3. TCC reg valve control the fluid to input shaft which controls the lockup. Pls advise
You'll need to consult a hydraulics diagram/sequence chart to confirm your above but that's broadly correct...And to be clear, it's not necessary to understand it beyond this level for the purposes of overhaul, checking, testing...What's more important is ensuring the TCC regulator valve in the valve body and lock up valve as well as pressure reg and boost valve in the pump are healthy/serviceable - that's done via vacuum testing... Same principle applies to the forward drum - needs to be healthy for all systems within the unit to work as intended.
Hey, when it comes to the surface of the pump body and pump covered, is it safe to say that is if everything is in exceptional condition to just simply flat file or use a flat stone on the surface, clean extremely well and then reassemble after replacement of any necessary valves and pump rotor parts. Second question is if the pump rotor itself, and all of the little veins are in exceptionally good condition, no noticeable where everything beautiful. Is it necessary that it be replaced or is it common practice that the pump rotor and valving of the pump be replaced with every rebuild, these are so many things that I sometimes discuss with people and why vacuum testing is so important
The body and stator support should be largely free of major scoring...If you have very light scoring you can clean it up with sand paper or a whetstone of the appropriate abrasive grade (coarseness). Always replace your vanes - they are less than $5 per pack for a 13 vane kit. And always replace your boost valve/sleeve as they are almost always worn out.
Yep - and not just one but two! Both will be on the channel starting with Part 1 on Saturday at 5pm EST. The first will show the testing process itself using a Sonnax test plate while the following vid will show repair valves being installed.. Please subscribe if you haven't already so you can get notified when they're out. Thank you for watching, jchaire!
When I was a teenager and even early years before my teens, my mind was not set to wanting to truly learn but when it came time to get paid, I certainly had the hand out. but I watched my uncle build all of these transmissions and this was way before computer control stuff all of the stuff that was built before the 1980s, but he had methods of testing everything, and it was all done with air pressure he tried to get me to learn. He tried so hard to get me to pay attention and I guess I was just acting. I soaked up a ton of information but never really learned how to apply it. I kept changing jobs doing things different and then in the later 1980s I went back to helping him some not long after my marriage and he just got discouraged with me and said I still wasn’t paying attention. Nothing had changed, but work on a hell of a lot of 700s during that. And a few th 400 Transmission. in 1980 He had already been building Transmission for like 50+ years.
I think you have just answered one of the questions I’ve been asking so many about the reverse input drum and the orifice in that drum. I’ve heard so many people talk about the smaller round hole in the larger square hole and they should never be mixed and I should never put a small round hole where a square hole should have been present, some of these transmissions that I’m going to be building at one point came disassembled so as long as I buy a reverse input drum that matches the support shaft I should be OK. I think it’s what I understood. Thanks for this amazing video.
Thank you for watching and sharing JRay! Appreciate the views and recollection...Yes, the older round-hole style drums are considered obsolete for 700R4s and the square hole design is what is now installed if the pre-existing older type drums have to be replaced.
Yea, if you can build your own machine and test plates then absolutely do it. I'm not a fabricator, have no time to devote to making my own tools (unless it's like a 5 minute task or something like that) and do so many of these that the little machine pays for itself in one job and then some. I think i discuss some of the cost/benefits in the following videos that will be appearing over the next week (Sonnax vac testing the valve body and installing repair valves on that same trans). Thank you for watching!
I recently purchased mine through Transtar industries and I also bought something additional. It is a pressure testing plate that goes on the Transmission case for air testing and I only paid $187 for the whole entire package and I’m sure that plate was probably 50 bucks, maybe less. There was a used one on eBay for like $85 not too long ago, but I had already bought mine.
You are gaining more followers and I look forward to seeing every single video that comes from you and your shop.
Thanks as always, Wilburn!
Please spread the word or mention my channel where you can - always helps!
OK, I’m now watching what maybe about to be the best video on TH-cam? No kidding there’s so many people out there that just doesn’t understand mainly the DIY Transmission builders but also quite a few Transmission shops. when my wife’s car tore up and needed a 6L45 transmission it continued having problems at the third time returning to the shop. I asked the guy did you vacuum test the pump and valve body he said that’s a bunch of hype and totally unnecessary when you’re rebuilding the pump and entirely there’s absolutely no need to vacuum test it. in the end The guy was not properly programming the tecum and he was buying them used and charging us for a new one.
Thanks, man - appreciate the kind words and glad t his vid has helped you! Many transmission shops don't want to take the time to test and inspect parts because they figure the gamble on it not coming back is worth the risk in leaving shit to chance...Obviously, that's not how I work as I like going to bed knowing that I've mitigated as much job risk as possible for every transmission that I build so chances of a comeback are as low as possible.
Once again, great video, Nick. Do you ever use the Transgo drop-in PR valve that doesn't require reaming? That's my go-to valve. The Transgo drop-in valve usually gains 2-3 inches of vacuum.
Thanks, Kevin!
I have used this valve before: transgo.com/product-details/4l60e-pressure-regulator-valve/
I havent tried their oversized valve as of yet but may give it a whirl on the next one that has a really worn out bore.
Nick, i am asking this question in this video becasue it is relevant here.
1. I thought torque converter passage is from valve body to input shaft thats get connected to torque converter where oil is feed is applied and locked. Pls bear with me, I am newbie. but you said in this video it has inboard and outboard for TCC lokup. can u pls telll m how does the torque converter clutch applied from hydralic passage stand piont with respect to inboard and outboard.
2. when u assemble transmission with new or reman torque converter, how do u test if torque converter clutch is applied correctly,
Thanks
Good questions, here are my responses:
1. The TCC regulator valve regulates the flow of apply oil to the converter clutch, among other things...The actual apply fluid pathway is through the input shaft...The TCC itself is actuated via the TCC apply valve in the pump via the TCC solenoid and those two things use the regulated apply fluid from the TCC regulator valve. Hope that helps.
2. The TCC itself is air-checked by the torque converter builder. Since I don't have the tool and never had any issues with his converters, I don't do any check myself but it's prob a tool I should have.
Thanks again for watching, Sivucit!
@ thanks can u confirm below sequence .
1. Lockup solenoid activates apply valve in pump.
2. Apply valve in pump control TCC regulator valve.
3. TCC reg valve control the fluid to input shaft which controls the lockup.
Pls advise
You'll need to consult a hydraulics diagram/sequence chart to confirm your above but that's broadly correct...And to be clear, it's not necessary to understand it beyond this level for the purposes of overhaul, checking, testing...What's more important is ensuring the TCC regulator valve in the valve body and lock up valve as well as pressure reg and boost valve in the pump are healthy/serviceable - that's done via vacuum testing...
Same principle applies to the forward drum - needs to be healthy for all systems within the unit to work as intended.
Hey, when it comes to the surface of the pump body and pump covered, is it safe to say that is if everything is in exceptional condition to just simply flat file or use a flat stone on the surface, clean extremely well and then reassemble after replacement of any necessary valves and pump rotor parts. Second question is if the pump rotor itself, and all of the little veins are in exceptionally good condition, no noticeable where everything beautiful. Is it necessary that it be replaced or is it common practice that the pump rotor and valving of the pump be replaced with every rebuild, these are so many things that I sometimes discuss with people and why vacuum testing is so important
The body and stator support should be largely free of major scoring...If you have very light scoring you can clean it up with sand paper or a whetstone of the appropriate abrasive grade (coarseness). Always replace your vanes - they are less than $5 per pack for a 13 vane kit. And always replace your boost valve/sleeve as they are almost always worn out.
Will you do a 4l60e valve body video next?
Yep - and not just one but two! Both will be on the channel starting with Part 1 on Saturday at 5pm EST. The first will show the testing process itself using a Sonnax test plate while the following vid will show repair valves being installed..
Please subscribe if you haven't already so you can get notified when they're out.
Thank you for watching, jchaire!
anyway to measure the calibration hole?
Thanks for watching, Von. Are you referring to the calibration port on the side of the machine?
@@nickstransmissions Yes, I was looking for the size, checking with a drill bit will do, great job with the videos
Thanks, man!
What would you recommend the vacuum should be at on pressure regulator valve when doing a heavy duty rebuild?
Min of 15 Hg for all applications is my standard.
@@nickstransmissions thank you for the reply
When I was a teenager and even early years before my teens, my mind was not set to wanting to truly learn but when it came time to get paid, I certainly had the hand out. but I watched my uncle build all of these transmissions and this was way before computer control stuff all of the stuff that was built before the 1980s, but he had methods of testing everything, and it was all done with air pressure he tried to get me to learn. He tried so hard to get me to pay attention and I guess I was just acting. I soaked up a ton of information but never really learned how to apply it. I kept changing jobs doing things different and then in the later 1980s I went back to helping him some not long after my marriage and he just got discouraged with me and said I still wasn’t paying attention. Nothing had changed, but work on a hell of a lot of 700s during that. And a few th 400 Transmission. in 1980 He had already been building Transmission for like 50+ years.
I think you have just answered one of the questions I’ve been asking so many about the reverse input drum and the orifice in that drum. I’ve heard so many people talk about the smaller round hole in the larger square hole and they should never be mixed and I should never put a small round hole where a square hole should have been present, some of these transmissions that I’m going to be building at one point came disassembled so as long as I buy a reverse input drum that matches the support shaft I should be OK. I think it’s what I understood. Thanks for this amazing video.
Thank you for watching and sharing JRay! Appreciate the views and recollection...Yes, the older round-hole style drums are considered obsolete for 700R4s and the square hole design is what is now installed if the pre-existing older type drums have to be replaced.
I see Sonnax is asking around 300 with taxes and shipping. I built my own for less than 100.
Yea, if you can build your own machine and test plates then absolutely do it. I'm not a fabricator, have no time to devote to making my own tools (unless it's like a 5 minute task or something like that) and do so many of these that the little machine pays for itself in one job and then some.
I think i discuss some of the cost/benefits in the following videos that will be appearing over the next week (Sonnax vac testing the valve body and installing repair valves on that same trans).
Thank you for watching!
I recently purchased mine through Transtar industries and I also bought something additional. It is a pressure testing plate that goes on the Transmission case for air testing and I only paid $187 for the whole entire package and I’m sure that plate was probably 50 bucks, maybe less. There was a used one on eBay for like $85 not too long ago, but I had already bought mine.