same thing happened to me just last week, i was so frustrated thinking that i wont ba able to fix my lower, luckily i found your video a did the same,and voila! thank you
Pc-7 on Amazon $13 for 1lb of 2 party putty epoxy. 2150 psi. Best bang for the buck I’ve come across. Twice as strong as regular jb weld steel stick but half as strong as jb welds premium stee stick. I just backfill the pocket with putty and press it in super hard every couple hours while it cures and remill. Saved tons of lowers like this.
@@rlozano7920 putty knife, spoon, finger, anything you can use to jam it in there nice n good. Might need to add it in layers and let it cure in between adding new layer. TH-cam pc-7 , I wanna say you can add water to it to make it less viscous
So many people on youtube act like they found out some secret that drill presses are not mills ... lol. Yes i know they are not made for sideways motion. For all the keyboard geniuses. Id rather burn through a $100 press than buy a expensive mill. Good video man! Ive had 2 different problems with lowers. Once with a big trigger hole. And once i over milled the saftey pocket and took put part of the hole for the saftey detent and spring so i had to fill it a tiny bit. The large trigger hole doesent mess with the structure but who wants a sloppy looking rifle?
I just did the same thing. I found that a 2 ton epoxy mixed with marine fiber adhesive filler to a peanut butter consistency worked remarkably well for filling in holes without dripping.
I did the same thing. But you can literally just put the monster tape directly on the lower. You don’t need the metal. What I do is I mix the job weld with fine aluminum scraps and it comes out perfect, and is super strong. Also you can paint it with a paint called steel it.. it has stainless steel in the paint so it’s about as good as powder coating.
Ironically I have the same problem, but was using a Router, I was so upset that night I stop everything and put the project on hold to stop and think. I thought of using lead to repair like was done on Auto Bodies before Bondo, then thought of JB Weld. I plan to resume the project in the Spring with warmer weather in my Garage. I will use you idea of the thin strip on Aluminum. Unlike your Lower mine was engraved to resemble a late 1960's GM Hydramatic......I was sick when the Mill Bit started to cut through the bottom. I plan to finish with Brownells Aluma-Hyde Grey Parkerizing. This shade of Aluma-Hyde is pretty close to real Parkerizing in color. Hopefully the Aluma-Hyde will hide any uneven surfaces after lite sanding
Good advice I had done my first 80%lower with a jig. Well it didn't look perfect but the pocket for the trigger mechanism had some ridges from my bit along the sides. So what I did was just used a dremel to sand down the sides looks better but I think it turned out fine
Man, I'm so glad to see this. I just finished my 1st gun and I did the same thing except I took off a smidgen too much metal on the side. So I wound up busting a pea sized hole in the righthand side of my lower. I was thinking the same thing I just got some more JB Weld and some filler also. Never thought of aluminum tape! Great 💡 So now I'm going back in and do final mods. It shoots well, I just f'd it up with all that drilling and grinding. I enjoyed the hell out of it though and will be more careful on my next one. This was awesome man, thanks again!!
Very useful video! Much appreciated when fellow novice tinkerers share their workaround-make-goods for things like lowers & such especially when taking into consideration how our mainstay avenues/sites for practical DIY advice for practically *anything* are overrun & overflowing with the dual lazy-fuck, asinine dumbass mind-sets that typically overlap more often than not of: "Durrrrr lowers are cheeep, just buy more!" or "Durrrrr doing anything remotely out of spec or doing anything at all with a clear risk of failure is DANGEROUS! DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!" So basically just throw your hard work away since there's nothing to be gained by using creativity towards resolving very fixable mistakes & doing any activity with a tangible amount of risk is doomed to fail & should be discouraged entirely & shouted down. It's goddamn maddening, so thanks for providing some rare, proper how-to content for something like this!
Thanks for posting this, I had the same exact problem happen with the drill bit and have been trying to come up with a repair method. I'm thinking about trying to repair it using either alumiweld brazing rods or some solder.....but after watching this, jb weld might be the easier way to go
my ridged router went down to far also even after I tightened that lever it still moved as I was routing it was sopos to have been locked in place first time using a router thanks for the video
i had as similar event except i was using a 1/8 th bit for pilot holes where did the drill bit break right smack dab in the middle of trigger hole area. so i tried to drill around the broken bit & the rescue bit deflected of to the side now i have a hole where it should not be. i tried jb weld last night but added some aluminum millings to the mix strong but not strong enough. tonight i was almost done when the whole repair came apart. this is where i hope your fix will help. P.S. you can use a drill press trick is not to be in a hurry DO NOT PUSH IT also with drill off press down on the bit this helps keep everything aligned & keep the bit as close to the work area cuts down on torque which causes the chuck to quickly exit the press. Ask me how i know. anyway i'm going to give your method a shot. Hopefully the third time will be the charm.
Happened to me twice in a row on 2 lowers, I put some jb steel stick in there and they work like charms. But I ordered more lowers and figured out a better way to prevent this from happening.
just wanted to thank you. i was very disappointed in myself for making a mistake. i followed your exact instructions, i cant believe this saved it WOW. i touched it up with some flat black Kyron with a small art brush. $15 save i was going to toss it . thanks again. how did you think of this? nice
I had to re drill some trigger pin holes, finally fixed them, do you know of any good hardening spray paint I could go over it with to make sure they don't woller out?
Can this be done if milled out more than i should on one of the side walls.. plus i drilled the holes befor hand..( i should have waited). Do you think it would work.?
If you're still needing help I'd recommend filling it with Jb weld and remilling it. And use a Drop in trigger since they come assembled and do not put much force on the actual lower. Or just put a drop in trigger into it and run it.
Yeah it should, I’d try anti walking pins first as they’re much cheaper and should accomplish the same solution you’re looking for. I wanna say I’ve fixed an uneven trigger pocket floor using anti walk pins
This is old but you can mill the whole bottom out. You can no longer use a milspec trigger but you CAN still use a drop in trigger. Just have a big ol hole in the bottom!!!
My issue with the jig set up is nasty. The jig doesn't fit (mill out) for all of the drop in Triggers on the market. Rise Armament Triggers don't fit as I have three of them and tried them all. 80% customer service was quick to respond but did NOT have any resolution or quick fix. They advertise on their web site for CMC and the trouble shooting tech recommends Trigger Tech Diamond. I'll be trying Trigger Tech Duty as it's the only one that fits my budget. Not happy about the fitment. Also my WOT trigger won't fit for the same reason. Anyone who needs more info or pictures of the issues I found let me know.
Im replying to your comment. TH-cam deleted my account for rasist comments on the video about Eminem with Tony Yayo. Thats why i turn off the comments fyi
Thats cute ..but ...Buy aluminum soldering rods like youd fix a aluminum bass boat with and build it back up w a mapp gas torch and then carefully machine it back out ..
When resources are hard to come by I prefer to adapt and overcome. Critical thinking and problem solving is a rare commodity now days. Some have more money than brains, that's not me!
All that for a bad job why not do one right.jbweld is not Right just start over do it right.put the time in to do the job right that you tried to fix a wrong
![TREASURE - 'KING KONG' COMEBACK SPECIAL [THE TREASURE SHOW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jx1wyMaQzf0/mqdefault.jpg)
Not all heroes wear capes! My man
same thing happened to me just last week, i was so frustrated thinking that i wont ba able to fix my lower, luckily i found your video a did the same,and voila! thank you
Darvy, thanks. I truly am greatful my video was able to help you out!
Pc-7 on Amazon $13 for 1lb of 2 party putty epoxy. 2150 psi. Best bang for the buck I’ve come across. Twice as strong as regular jb weld steel stick but half as strong as jb welds premium stee stick. I just backfill the pocket with putty and press it in super hard every couple hours while it cures and remill. Saved tons of lowers like this.
I just got some pc7. What did you use to get it into the bottom of the trigger pocket?
@@rlozano7920 putty knife, spoon, finger, anything you can use to jam it in there nice n good. Might need to add it in layers and let it cure in between adding new layer. TH-cam pc-7 , I wanna say you can add water to it to make it less viscous
So many people on youtube act like they found out some secret that drill presses are not mills ... lol. Yes i know they are not made for sideways motion. For all the keyboard geniuses. Id rather burn through a $100 press than buy a expensive mill. Good video man!
Ive had 2 different problems with lowers. Once with a big trigger hole. And once i over milled the saftey pocket and took put part of the hole for the saftey detent and spring so i had to fill it a tiny bit. The large trigger hole doesent mess with the structure but who wants a sloppy looking rifle?
Chace Delaney How did you fix the safety hole issue? I did the same thing.
I just did the same thing. I found that a 2 ton epoxy mixed with marine fiber adhesive filler to a peanut butter consistency worked remarkably well for filling in holes without dripping.
I did the same thing. But you can literally just put the monster tape directly on the lower. You don’t need the metal. What I do is I mix the job weld with fine aluminum scraps and it comes out perfect, and is super strong. Also you can paint it with a paint called steel it.. it has stainless steel in the paint so it’s about as good as powder coating.
Ironically I have the same problem, but was using a
Router, I was so upset that night I stop everything and put the project on hold to stop and think. I thought of using lead to repair like was done on Auto Bodies before Bondo, then thought of JB Weld.
I plan to resume the project in the Spring with warmer weather in my Garage.
I will use you idea of the thin strip on Aluminum.
Unlike your Lower mine was engraved to resemble a late 1960's GM Hydramatic......I was sick when the Mill Bit started to cut through the bottom.
I plan to finish with Brownells Aluma-Hyde Grey Parkerizing.
This shade of Aluma-Hyde is pretty close to real Parkerizing in color. Hopefully the Aluma-Hyde will hide any uneven surfaces after lite sanding
Good advice I had done my first 80%lower with a jig. Well it didn't look perfect but the pocket for the trigger mechanism had some ridges from my bit along the sides. So what I did was just used a dremel to sand down the sides looks better but I think it turned out fine
I just milled out too much and need to do this so glad I found this video
Man, I'm so glad to see this. I just finished my 1st gun and I did the same thing except I took off a smidgen too much metal on the side. So I wound up busting a pea sized hole in the righthand side of my lower. I was thinking the same thing I just got some more JB Weld and some filler also. Never thought of aluminum tape! Great 💡 So now I'm going back in and do final mods. It shoots well, I just f'd it up with all that drilling and grinding. I enjoyed the hell out of it though and will be more careful on my next one. This was awesome man, thanks again!!
Very useful video! Much appreciated when fellow novice tinkerers share their workaround-make-goods for things like lowers & such especially when taking into consideration how our mainstay avenues/sites for practical DIY advice for practically *anything* are overrun & overflowing with the dual lazy-fuck, asinine dumbass mind-sets that typically overlap more often than not of: "Durrrrr lowers are cheeep, just buy more!" or "Durrrrr doing anything remotely out of spec or doing anything at all with a clear risk of failure is DANGEROUS! DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!" So basically just throw your hard work away since there's nothing to be gained by using creativity towards resolving very fixable mistakes & doing any activity with a tangible amount of risk is doomed to fail & should be discouraged entirely & shouted down. It's goddamn maddening, so thanks for providing some rare, proper how-to content for something like this!
I made the same mistake with a drill press. I was thinking maybe a drop in trigger will fix it
Glad you posted this, I've used it as a referral a couple times for some friends, thanks.
Looks good but you can use a drill press just know the limits and your rpm change the belt to the 28000rpm pully no issues
Exaxt same thing happened to me, thats why i am here. I was thinking same thing, jb weld since i dont have or even know anyone with a tig welder.
Nicely done
Thanks for posting this, I had the same exact problem happen with the drill bit and have been trying to come up with a repair method.
I'm thinking about trying to repair it using either alumiweld brazing rods or some solder.....but after watching this, jb weld might be the easier way to go
And only go clockwise motion to get it correct other wise you get kick back
my ridged router went down to far also even after I tightened that lever it still moved as I was routing it was sopos to have been locked in place first time using a router thanks for the video
i had as similar event except i was using a 1/8 th bit for pilot holes where did the drill bit break right smack dab in the middle of trigger hole area. so i tried to drill around the broken bit & the rescue bit deflected of to the side now i have a hole where it should not be. i tried jb weld last night but added some aluminum millings to the mix strong but not strong enough. tonight i was almost done when the whole repair came apart. this is where i hope your fix will help. P.S. you can use a drill press trick is not to be in a hurry DO NOT PUSH IT also with drill off press down on the bit this helps keep everything aligned & keep the bit as close to the work area cuts down on torque which causes the chuck to quickly exit the press. Ask me how i know.
anyway i'm going to give your method a shot. Hopefully the third time will be the charm.
Same thing happened to mine i have the JB weld putty in it right now curing them going to re-mill it.
I use a drill press every time mine turn out perfect. Along with a cross vise, n end mill 4 flank end mikk
Clever fix!
Happened to me twice in a row on 2 lowers, I put some jb steel stick in there and they work like charms. But I ordered more lowers and figured out a better way to prevent this from happening.
Same just happened to me in the detent for the safety
When you milled, Did you go all the way through the bottom?
just wanted to thank you. i was very disappointed in myself for making a mistake. i followed your exact instructions, i cant believe this saved it WOW. i touched it up with some flat black Kyron with a small art brush. $15 save i was going to toss it . thanks again. how did you think of this? nice
What epoxy did u use?
I use a 5D tactical jig and a router. Much easier and no chatter. 👌
Can you put the link of the same flashing you used please
I had to re drill some trigger pin holes, finally fixed them, do you know of any good hardening spray paint I could go over it with to make sure they don't woller out?
This is the problem I had, this is what I was looking for thank you!
@@dhomevideos after you re drill the holes order a couple sets of anti rotation pins , the bars will hold every thing in place .
Exact shit just happened to me, except my end mill slipped out of my router.
Can this be done if milled out more than i should on one of the side walls.. plus i drilled the holes befor hand..( i should have waited). Do you think it would work.?
If you're still needing help I'd recommend filling it with Jb weld and remilling it. And use a Drop in trigger since they come assembled and do not put much force on the actual lower. Or just put a drop in trigger into it and run it.
@@shitcreekwarrior8794 hey man thank you very much sir... i havent mess with it but i am going to try that sir...
U ever fire your ar with a little hole in the lower, I don't think it would bother it too much... just loose a little pressure
now that it has been 2 years how is the jb weld holding, will it hold up to heavy use?
Before I lost it in a boating accident it ran fine with ZERO issues with close to 500 rounds through it. Gotta watch out for those rouge waves!
I went too deep and its uneven. Wouldn't a drop in trigger work fine? Since its secured by 2 pins.
Yeah it should, I’d try anti walking pins first as they’re much cheaper and should accomplish the same solution you’re looking for. I wanna say I’ve fixed an uneven trigger pocket floor using anti walk pins
Do you take of th gorilla tape when everything is finished I just wanna make sure
Yes
Any suggestions for polymer?
Just buy a new one prob. Cheap enough right
This is old but you can mill the whole bottom out. You can no longer use a milspec trigger but you CAN still use a drop in trigger. Just have a big ol hole in the bottom!!!
Extra drainage for water ops!😉
That's why you don't use a drill press lmao
My issue with the jig set up is nasty. The jig doesn't fit (mill out) for all of the drop in Triggers on the market. Rise Armament Triggers don't fit as I have three of them and tried them all. 80% customer service was quick to respond but did NOT have any resolution or quick fix. They advertise on their web site for CMC and the trouble shooting tech recommends Trigger Tech Diamond. I'll be trying Trigger Tech Duty as it's the only one that fits my budget. Not happy about the fitment. Also my WOT trigger won't fit for the same reason. Anyone who needs more info or pictures of the issues I found let me know.
I just did this to mine i just lives with it since I can’t see it unless I stare at it
Try 3M DP420 works better than JB weld.
Im replying to your comment. TH-cam deleted my account for rasist comments on the video about Eminem with Tony Yayo. Thats why i turn off the comments fyi
Thats cute ..but ...Buy aluminum soldering rods like youd fix a aluminum bass boat with and build it back up w a mapp gas torch and then carefully machine it back out ..
fuck i wish i saw this i threw mine out and got a new lower....
better to weld up the mistakes and remill
I accept donations, send me a welder and I'll start learning! Hit me back and I will send you my PayPal info!
Just throw it away start over..
When resources are hard to come by I prefer to adapt and overcome. Critical thinking and problem solving is a rare commodity now days. Some have more money than brains, that's not me!
All that for a bad job why not do one right.jbweld is not Right just start over do it right.put the time in to do the job right that you tried to fix a wrong