Yes, there are a lot of options on sanitizing. Some dilute bleach with water, others vinegar or blend of different agents...just depends on preference. Then there's prepackaged sanitizer you can buy that has designated mix ratio. In all cases, you basically come close to filling tank with sanitizing solution, let it sit for some time, before draining it. Some even drive around to get it to slosh around before dumping. I like to then rinse with fresh/plain water at least twice following to make sure it's all cleared out before refilling to drink again.
The first part of the video you show to unscrew the drain, making sure the gasket is not lost in the cap. Do you happen to know where I can get another? Mine leaks pretty bad.
Yes, should be at local hardware store or home center. It's just a standard residential 1/2 in threaded PEX cap. You might have to buy entire threaded portion to get cap, but they should have a cap and washer inside. I think it should be pretty easy to find thankfully. Hope this helps!
@@AdventureRocks I'm in Vegas so you will be happy to not have our summers lol. I like the filter location too btw. Ingenious. I can tell you have been into RV long enough to have a mind for this. I'm new to it lol
As long as the suction line is blown out/drained (from pump), then you should be fine. Some will tell you to pour the RV antifreeze into your fresh tank and siphon as well since there is a small ~16 inches of pipe leading to pump T/diverter, so that is another option to consider. I find the RV antifreeze leaves a taste in the fresh water tank, even after flushing heavily, and we don't get that much freezing weather here in Georgia, so I just fill the lines and skip the tank (just drain it). However, in the following spring or whenever you de-winterize it is a good time to sanitize the fresh tank (after sitting all winter). Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. You confirmed that I have a kink or something in my drain. Mine trickles out. I saw a twisted hose leading to the pump. Wondering if that could cause a vent issue to the drain hose? I store mine evrytime with the water tank empty. Any reason to leave water in there? Also, I use tablets in my boat tanks, what do you use on the Nobo tank?
@Jason Monday Possible on trickle? There should be another vent from tank to outside fill. Most have a smaller ~3/4" overflow/vent hose running parallel to the larger ~1.5" fresh water inlet outside. So all in all should be 4 penetrations in fresh water tank: 1) bottom drain, 2) top pump inlet, 3) exterior fill, 4) vent/overflow. I wonder if the ball valve is obstructed on the drain or has some kind of glue/debris stuck right inside the tank at the drain? Definitely try to untwist the other hose you mentioned. Maybe with ball valve open, gently push a straight hanger up through to see if it is clear to tank? It's possible they switched vendors or parts on the drain if yours looks different. Mine is a smaller 1/2" ball valve I believe. Worst case if you're ever working on underbelly you could put a new drain on tank. Some manufacturers put a giant ~2" gate dump valve on them which is pretty nice. I think main reason to leave water in tank or lines is for any gaskets or parts that could dry out if not in water. I think it would take a LONG time for that to happen, but probably better safe than sorry. For winterizing alternate method, some folks just connect an air compressor with low 40 psi to the water lines on rig to rid all water and just have air in lieu of antifreeze. They make a nice little adapter to go from city water connection to schrader valve. It's another method certainly, but depending on rig some parts may dry out overtime, again probably many years for that to happen. And possible to inadvertently leave some water in the lines. Tablets are convenient. Or if you have household clorox laying around already, about 1/2 cup per 10 gal...but that's heavier concentration for an annual thorough sanitize > flush, fill, flush, etc. till purged...then ready for filling to drink.
@@AdventureRocks Thanks. A lot of good info. This week I just stuck a heater in the trailer because I am hoping to get another outing this month. Another note, I getting ready to install my 1500w inverter. Did you install yours so it runs the outlets already in the rig through a switch?
@@jasonmonday8116 @Jason Monday I did a dedicated inverter outlet off to the right on forward wall in the cabin, plus one built-in on kitchen slide area. But if there was one thing I'd do differently it'd be to get an auto transfer switch and then just feed all the GFCI outlets as they're all already on a single circuit. I didn't realize how inexpensive they are until I cam across this one here a couple months back: amzn.to/2Js9Efu Using an auto transfer switch like that one would be seamless in that it'll default to shore power (2nd input) and otherwise if no shore power it'd default to inverter input (1st). Anyway, the existing outlets are all on a single circuit and wired inline, so it'd be pretty easy to implement that switch. So that'd be one nice touch I'd do differently if I did it again...definitely would check it out. Especially with a 1500w inverter capacity...that should pair nicely :) You running dual batteries then?
@@AdventureRocks Yes, dual batteries coming as well. I was planning on using the switch as you described. Do you know if the converter and the fuse panel are all the same or are they two seperate components?
Thank you! Our 10.5 is great. These are ‘Go To’ instructions!
Just bought a 2021 10.6 loaded.
Awsome Rig.
Nice! You're gonna have so much fun with it!
How do I sanitize the tank?
Yes, there are a lot of options on sanitizing. Some dilute bleach with water, others vinegar or blend of different agents...just depends on preference. Then there's prepackaged sanitizer you can buy that has designated mix ratio. In all cases, you basically come close to filling tank with sanitizing solution, let it sit for some time, before draining it. Some even drive around to get it to slosh around before dumping. I like to then rinse with fresh/plain water at least twice following to make sure it's all cleared out before refilling to drink again.
What about the water heater? You also didn’t talk about the kitchen and bathroom sink lines. Or the toilet supply line.
On the NoBo 10.6 it's pretty basic kinda like a teardrop style floorplan so it doesn't have a water heater or bathroom or kitchen or toilet.
@@AdventureRocks Gotcha. Thanks for the reply and video.😊
The first part of the video you show to unscrew the drain, making sure the gasket is not lost in the cap. Do you happen to know where I can get another? Mine leaks pretty bad.
Yes, should be at local hardware store or home center. It's just a standard residential 1/2 in threaded PEX cap. You might have to buy entire threaded portion to get cap, but they should have a cap and washer inside. I think it should be pretty easy to find thankfully. Hope this helps!
I'm so happy we hardly ever drop below 36F but for sure don't see less than 32F. Still watched for information sake
I'm jealous :) Thankfully it's usually fairly mild in winters here, but had an early cold snap this week
@@AdventureRocks I'm in Vegas so you will be happy to not have our summers lol. I like the filter location too btw. Ingenious. I can tell you have been into RV long enough to have a mind for this. I'm new to it lol
Should you do anything to your freshwater tank in the winter? Besides draining the tank?
As long as the suction line is blown out/drained (from pump), then you should be fine. Some will tell you to pour the RV antifreeze into your fresh tank and siphon as well since there is a small ~16 inches of pipe leading to pump T/diverter, so that is another option to consider. I find the RV antifreeze leaves a taste in the fresh water tank, even after flushing heavily, and we don't get that much freezing weather here in Georgia, so I just fill the lines and skip the tank (just drain it). However, in the following spring or whenever you de-winterize it is a good time to sanitize the fresh tank (after sitting all winter). Hope this helps!
Thanks for the video. You confirmed that I have a kink or something in my drain. Mine trickles out. I saw a twisted hose leading to the pump. Wondering if that could cause a vent issue to the drain hose? I store mine evrytime with the water tank empty. Any reason to leave water in there? Also, I use tablets in my boat tanks, what do you use on the Nobo tank?
@Jason Monday Possible on trickle? There should be another vent from tank to outside fill. Most have a smaller ~3/4" overflow/vent hose running parallel to the larger ~1.5" fresh water inlet outside. So all in all should be 4 penetrations in fresh water tank: 1) bottom drain, 2) top pump inlet, 3) exterior fill, 4) vent/overflow. I wonder if the ball valve is obstructed on the drain or has some kind of glue/debris stuck right inside the tank at the drain? Definitely try to untwist the other hose you mentioned. Maybe with ball valve open, gently push a straight hanger up through to see if it is clear to tank? It's possible they switched vendors or parts on the drain if yours looks different. Mine is a smaller 1/2" ball valve I believe. Worst case if you're ever working on underbelly you could put a new drain on tank. Some manufacturers put a giant ~2" gate dump valve on them which is pretty nice.
I think main reason to leave water in tank or lines is for any gaskets or parts that could dry out if not in water. I think it would take a LONG time for that to happen, but probably better safe than sorry. For winterizing alternate method, some folks just connect an air compressor with low 40 psi to the water lines on rig to rid all water and just have air in lieu of antifreeze. They make a nice little adapter to go from city water connection to schrader valve. It's another method certainly, but depending on rig some parts may dry out overtime, again probably many years for that to happen. And possible to inadvertently leave some water in the lines.
Tablets are convenient. Or if you have household clorox laying around already, about 1/2 cup per 10 gal...but that's heavier concentration for an annual thorough sanitize > flush, fill, flush, etc. till purged...then ready for filling to drink.
@@AdventureRocks Thanks. A lot of good info. This week I just stuck a heater in the trailer because I am hoping to get another outing this month. Another note, I getting ready to install my 1500w inverter. Did you install yours so it runs the outlets already in the rig through a switch?
@@jasonmonday8116 @Jason Monday I did a dedicated inverter outlet off to the right on forward wall in the cabin, plus one built-in on kitchen slide area. But if there was one thing I'd do differently it'd be to get an auto transfer switch and then just feed all the GFCI outlets as they're all already on a single circuit. I didn't realize how inexpensive they are until I cam across this one here a couple months back:
amzn.to/2Js9Efu
Using an auto transfer switch like that one would be seamless in that it'll default to shore power (2nd input) and otherwise if no shore power it'd default to inverter input (1st). Anyway, the existing outlets are all on a single circuit and wired inline, so it'd be pretty easy to implement that switch. So that'd be one nice touch I'd do differently if I did it again...definitely would check it out. Especially with a 1500w inverter capacity...that should pair nicely :) You running dual batteries then?
@@AdventureRocks Yes, dual batteries coming as well. I was planning on using the switch as you described. Do you know if the converter and the fuse panel are all the same or are they two seperate components?
Also, is there a breaker somewhere in-line that is passed the battery switch for the + line or should I add one?