The man who works with his hands is a laborer. The man who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman. The man who works with his hands, his head and his heart is an artist.
Hi Tom As an old retired guy I do a lot projects just as exercises to build skills. I took on your project for the same reason, but I have to say your stop is now one of the three projects I have done for my lathe I that are so good, I would fight rather than give them up. I modified my compound for a quick change tool post, your stop, and a handle to spin my spindle. I can't begin to say thank you enough for the free gift. I was building a can't twist clamp today an noticed how many times I used this stop. Fantastic. Thanks Tom, Donald
Just an excellent series of Machining with a tangible addition to ones lathe to be proud of. Well done Tom and my sincere thanks to you for taking the time to put this high quality training together. thoroughly enjoyable indeed!
I have a nice lathe ,drill press TIG welder and no milling machine due to this and a lot of work and practice I have became very good if I say so myself with files and stones. But I have been putting off making a carriage stop and too cheap to buy one. Glad to see you show folks the 20 thread per inch usage for a micrometer. The first thing I did a long time ago was use this to make adjustment nuts for my drill press they look just like yours. I also made one years ago when I didn't have a lathe from white oak wood with 50 lines on it with stock checkering tools and a small triangle file ground safe on one side. I like how you use your own hand ground tool bits as opposed to buying everything. The first thing I did when I got a lathe was cut 6 TPI buttress threads for a fertilizer injector adapter. Fantastic work as always and I have learned a lot from you even though I am 58 thanks. Worth
I miss working with other machinists and picking up new tips. I work on my own now and the only new ones I get are what I come up with myself. I'm 62 and still have a healthy desire to learn new things. Thanks for watching. Tom
Excellent series Tom! The carriage stop turned out perfect, I am sure your Dad is very happy with the new addition to his lathe! I am looking forward to the knurling tool series, and following your lead in building one as well. Thanks for sharing, Ray
Tom, thank you for a great series. It's very useful to see the process through from design to installation and testing. Lots of useful techniques involved, and the features (the threaded rod with the groove for the setscrew, the engraved lines and numbering, and the tension ball and spring for instance) are applicable to other precision positioning tools. I expect to be watching these again when I try doing a similar device. Thanks too to your dad for the use of his lathe...which looked pretty clean to me! -- Mike
I really like the idea that you offer in this video that it is a lot of work, but you learn a lot while fashioning the tool and you get to use it thereafter (my son will even be able to use it after I'm gone). Great project, video, narration, drawings and ethical considerations as well. I really enjoyed this series and only wish my Harrison 190 didn't have a carriage stop already. I am so very much looking forward to the knurling tool project you mention again at the end of this video. Thank you Tom, for the super program. This may be obvious even to the beginners, but it might be worth mentioning that the carriage stop is not meant to be used while feeding using the lead screw. I don't know what happens when auto feed meets carriage stop and I don't want to find out. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jim. That's a good point about the power feed. When the carriage contacts a solid stop under power, it normally (hopefully) shears the pin in the lead screw. Otherwise gears are gonna lose teeth. Thanks for watching. Tom
Hi Tom, NICE JOB!! The stop came out great. I am sure your Dad will appreciate the work you did. Thanks for showing the whole process. Best Regards, Reid
I really liked your way stamping on the numbers. I did id by dropping a weight from determined height to make even depressions of the numbers. This is simpler. Thanks Bob
Thank you very much for such a well done series. Your explanation of the math used to achieve accurate knurling was especially appreciated. I eagerly await the next project!
An excellent series Tom, enjoyed everyone and learnt a lot. Thank you for taking the time to make all your videos and hope there's many many many more to come. Regards, Allan.
Hi Tom, That was a great series watching the birth of the carriage stop I love watching a professional ply his trade. It's very educational watching these videos. I first got hooked on Keith Fenner's videos and fond Tom's Techniques and now I'm hooked on both. I have a very old 7.5" South Bend Lathe mostly as a hobby machine in my small wood and metal working hobby shop. Thanks Tom for the great videos >Joe Morris
This series is great, thanks for taking the time to create such detailed videos. This project will be top of the list once I get my home shop set up :)
I can't believe how easy you through your father under the bus (ref: how clean HIS lathe was or was not.) Hope he makes you cut some fire wood, say at least a 1/2 cord or more. :-) Great series, and thank you for taking the time to share this video, and upload it.
Hi Tom , I've been looking at various carriage stops when i came across your design , very good. it will be one of my future projects , thanks . Jim from Brookwood ps. I'm 70 and work on my own too . I have so many ideas in my head ! hope to do some of them in the fullness of time
So THAT's what it's for! :) What a great series! I'm sure I learned dozens of things. Thanks! A couple thoughts: It would've been cool, when you discovered the thimble wouldn't fit, to have machined a concave surface into the throat. I think it would've been neat to have had the thimble snuggle down in there and would've solved the problem without getting too close to the bolt holes. Second, I think it would be neat to have detents for the spring and ball (assuming 1/1000 is enough granularity). Would love to hear those clicks as you spin the thimble. Anyway, thanks again. I thoroughly enjoyed the series!
Tom, thank you for spending the time to show the design mistakes and how you fixed them in the completed part as well as showing how you changed the design to fix those mistakes. Another great series. Is there a chance you can show us a way of doing graduations without a dividing head/rotary table?
Sorry, but some sort of dividing head or rotary table is necessary to graduate a dial, unless you can do it in your lathe. Some guys mount plates or gears on their lathe spindle to divide. Tom
ctjctj2 I did hear of a way of doing dividing using hose clamps on a disk, then the slots were used as index points. Sadly I cant remember the details of how it worked. A bit of thought may present a way of doing this successfully.
Hi Tom, I've completed both the knurling tool and the carriage stop. The carriage stop I modified to fit my Clausing lathe 5913. I was hoping to send you a photo of each but haven't figured out how to do this. If you have a interest to check it out please help me with a way to send you a photo or two. I wish to thank you for posting these projects for they have helped to improve my abilities greatly. Your instruction is very easy to follow and I had a lot of fun completing them. Can't wait for the boring head, I'm 61 and still want to learn also. Gordon
Thanks Gordon. It's always good to hear back from someone who has made the projects. Contact me through my website and I'll tell you how to send the pics. Tom
Excellent drawing and machining craftsmanship. I believe allen head bolts are much better than the square heads on an item like this. More convenient to have a short hex wrench so you can leave it sitting in one of the bolts for quick and easy use.
Thanks Darryl. Socket head screws won't work well in this application because the heads fill with chips. A square head wrench is also much easier on the hands than a hex key. Tom
OUTSTANDING Tom! really a Great job looking forward to the next project "Knurling Tool" Btw- I'm still looking for a 10" used Atlas so I can get started! the machine I have could never turn out a part such as the one you have made I am sure someone such yourself (Master Machinist) could do it but there is no way I could! Thanks for All the info
Much appreciated Tom - good to see the tool in use. * Would be interesting to see the same camera angles when you are on your Hardinge mate All the best Pete
Figuring out what camera angles to use is tough. I like to show the actual process, but it's nice to see the machine operation as well. At some point I'll probably start using dual cameras, but the budget won't allow it quite yet. Thanks, Tom
Hi Tom, I don't normally say "good job", we Brits don't go in for treacly insincerity as much as some, but I have to say a very nice job indeed. ATB chris.
Hi Tom, I am enjoying your videos particularly your attention to detail. I would also like to see more of your machines, maybe a shop tour, please. Carriage Stop playlist videos 15 & 16 have been deleted, these are of the square head bolts, are these videos posted somewhere else? Many thanks Greg
Thanks Greg. The playlists are just a collection of existing videos. Not sure why those two were deleted, but I put them back on the list. Thanks for pointing it out. Tom
If you had the topslide / compound slide, parallel to the axis of the lathe. You could just lock the carriage, zero out the compound dial, measure the part, then advance the compound the amount you need to take off. Simple, that is the way we work here in England. You do not need a graduated carriage stop then, just have a stop for multi parts or when working to a shoulder or boring a depth. All lengths are then controlled by a fixed stop and the amount of advancement on the compound dial.
Did you use solidworks to model that part? I was curious because it looks just like a solidworks drawing. Great video! I should be sleeping but I can't resist a good machining video!
Hello Mr. Tom. I really liked the Carriege Stop kit. Congratulations. I have a BV20L lathe and I'm dying to make a Carriege Stop kit just like yours. I ask: if the kit is installed to a certain extent and, if I forget to remove it and, turn on the automatic advance, the split nut will be damaged, correct ???
If you run the carriage into the stop under power, something will be damaged. There are stops designed to disengage the feed, but this is not one of them.
Tom: Thanks again for another terrific project. Hands down yours is my favorite channel on youtube. I learned an incredible amount and wanted to thank you in particular for going the extra mile with the clamp bolts -- I think I learned more with that video than all the rest (form tool stuff, tempering by heating until the oil flashes off, and a much more straightforward way to mill the four sides of the bolt head than I would have used). I'm in the process of modifying the design to fit the V-ways of my Logan lathe. While I'm at it, I'm considering using a cam-lever to lock the carriage stop to the ways instead of cap-screws or custom bolts. Since I often jump between collets and a chuck, it seems like I'll be moving the stop around a lot and I hate fussing with wrenches. On the other hand, I tend to overcomplicate my projects. Do you think a cam lock would be a worthwhile modification? I do have a cam lock lever on hand, so I won't need to machine the cam.
Thanks Rex, it's good to hear you are enjoying my channel. I wouldn't use a cam lock on the carriage stop for the Atlas because of the flat ways. It takes a good amount of clamping pressure to keep the carriage from moving it. You should probably be ok adapting to the Logan because of the V ways. Keeping it simple is the first order of business in design. I splurged a bit on this project with the raised pad for the indicator mark and the square head bolts, but I think it turned out ok. If you build one I would love to see a pic. I'm thinking about adding a page to the website for you guys to show off your completed projects. Sort of a place to see what others have done and exchange ideas. Tom
Toms Techniques If I build it, it will almost certainly cost me a scrapped part or three, and I probably won't finish until 2024. Thanks for the KISS principle reminder. I'm just having fun toying with the design before I start making chips. I'll use cap screws for the, uh, prototype, and I'll let you know if I ever get around to building one (or retrofitting) with a cam lock. FWIW, the raised pad was a bit too fussy even for me! I figured with my skills I might avoid a scrapped part or two just by eliminating that one little detail.
Tom, I have watched this project with interest. However, I seem to have missed one of the processes involving the Thimble. During part 2 of the thimble manufacture, the bore was cut for the mandrel insertion for the calibration/numbering procedures--the bore was then to be opened for the internal threading of the thimble to mate with the shaft. I am sure that you must have completed that process--but for the life of me I am unable to find that in a video. I suspect that the video must have been thimble #5...can you lead me to that or was the internal threading of the thimble covered in another video? Great project, something to work on this summer when i stand to be in non-heated hobby shop. I will be making one for either the 9" or the Heavy 10 SB which requires changing the body design a little to allow for the SB V in the bed. Eric
Eric, I forgot to tap the bore in the last Thimble video, so I did it in the next one in line, which was the first Clamp Bolt Video. The body will change quite a bit for a South Bend, because the ways are not only V shaped, they are also much thicker. There are a couple of versions on metalworkingfun.com that were adapted to other lathes. Tom
Thanks for getting back to me with the link for the threading step. Also for the infor re: adaptations for SB. One question if you don't mind. When you used the tailstock center to align the tap, why didn't you use a spring loaded center, just wondering. Certainly your use of the center and driving it did the same thing as the spring would have. Your contributions to hobby guys like myself is wonderful--thank.
ib golfr I normally just power tap a part like this, but after putting so much work into it, I decided that it would be safer to tap it by hand. The reason I didn't use a spring center is that I don't own one. If you have one then by all means use it. It won't save a lot of time, but every little bit helps. Tom
I have two 10" Atlas lathes just the one you are working on. Love the large number disk at the cross slide. Did you make it or is that available from some manufacturer?? Bob
I am an amateur garage machinist, I fiddle with a 1941 South Bend Model 9A with the threading gear box that I got from the San Diego Naval Ship yard. have been looking to see if a carriage stop is what I need because when i try threading, I miss where to stop the apron. Would a carriage stop be what I am looking for to auto stop the carriage when its moving faster than I can catch?
Definitely not. A carriage stop like this is meant to stop a carriage that is hand fed. Hitting it under power would destroy the feed gears. The best way to stop the carriage at a particular spot is to simply turn off the spindle and let it coast to a stop with the half nuts engaged. Then turn the spindle by hand to finish the thread. I like to back the tool out at the end to give it a finished look. Just don't forget to disengage the half nuts before restarting the spindle. Tom
Toms Techniques thank you for that. That's sort of what I've been doing. Thought maybe there was something easier with these older lathes. Love your channel and am subscribed as I find them very informative for novices like me
+Douglas Thompson Hi Douglas, You can thread to a carriage stop under power...once. It will shear the pin off in the lead screw on your lathe if it has one and if not, will break off teeth on the feed gears, both bad and expensive things. A carriage stop is only meant as a hand feed stop. Some lathes, like my Hardinge HLV-H have adjustable lead screw stops that allow you to thread to a shoulder under power, but most do not. Thanks for watching. Tom
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The man who works with his hands is a laborer. The man who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman. The man who works with his hands, his head and his heart is an artist.
Hi Tom
As an old retired guy I do a lot projects just as exercises to build skills. I took on your project for the same reason, but I have to say your stop is now one of the three projects I have done for my lathe I that are so good, I would fight rather than give them up. I modified my compound for a quick change tool post, your stop, and a handle to spin my spindle. I can't begin to say thank you enough for the free gift. I was building a can't twist clamp today an noticed how many times I used this stop. Fantastic.
Thanks Tom,
Donald
Thanks Donald. It's really good to hear when these projects get built.
Tom
Just an excellent series of Machining with a tangible addition to ones lathe to be proud of. Well done Tom and my sincere thanks to you for taking the time to put this high quality training together. thoroughly enjoyable indeed!
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed.
I have a nice lathe ,drill press TIG welder and no milling machine due to this and a lot of work and practice I have became very good if I say so myself with files and stones.
But I have been putting off making a carriage stop and too cheap to buy one.
Glad to see you show folks the 20 thread per inch usage for a micrometer.
The first thing I did a long time ago was use this to make adjustment nuts for my drill press they look just like yours.
I also made one years ago when I didn't have a lathe from white oak wood with 50 lines on it with stock checkering tools and a small triangle file ground safe on one side.
I like how you use your own hand ground tool bits as opposed to buying everything.
The first thing I did when I got a lathe was cut 6 TPI buttress threads for a fertilizer injector adapter.
Fantastic work as always and I have learned a lot from you even though I am 58 thanks.
Worth
I miss working with other machinists and picking up new tips. I work on my own now and the only new ones I get are what I come up with myself. I'm 62 and still have a healthy desire to learn new things.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Excellent series Tom!
The carriage stop turned out perfect, I am sure your Dad is very happy with the new addition to his lathe!
I am looking forward to the knurling tool series, and following your lead in building one as well.
Thanks for sharing,
Ray
Thanks Ray.
It was a fun project, but I doubt my dad will use it. He'd more of a woodworker than machinist. But, it's there if he needs it.
Tom
Tom, thank you for a great series. It's very useful to see the process through from design to installation and testing. Lots of useful techniques involved, and the features (the threaded rod with the groove for the setscrew, the engraved lines and numbering, and the tension ball and spring for instance) are applicable to other precision positioning tools. I expect to be watching these again when I try doing a similar device.
Thanks too to your dad for the use of his lathe...which looked pretty clean to me!
-- Mike
Thanks Mike, Dad will be glad to hear that.
Tom
I really like the idea that you offer in this video that it is a lot of work, but you learn a lot while fashioning the tool and you get to use it thereafter (my son will even be able to use it after I'm gone). Great project, video, narration, drawings and ethical considerations as well. I really enjoyed this series and only wish my Harrison 190 didn't have a carriage stop already. I am so very much looking forward to the knurling tool project you mention again at the end of this video. Thank you Tom, for the super program. This may be obvious even to the beginners, but it might be worth mentioning that the carriage stop is not meant to be used while feeding using the lead screw. I don't know what happens when auto feed meets carriage stop and I don't want to find out. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jim.
That's a good point about the power feed. When the carriage contacts a solid stop under power, it normally (hopefully) shears the pin in the lead screw. Otherwise gears are gonna lose teeth.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
This is a fantastic series of vids. Thanks for this, and for providing the drawings. This will be a ton of fun going through this project!
Hi Tom,
NICE JOB!! The stop came out great. I am sure your Dad will appreciate the work you did. Thanks for showing the whole process.
Best Regards,
Reid
Thanks Reid, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Tom
I really liked your way stamping on the numbers. I did id by dropping a weight from determined height to make even depressions of the numbers. This is simpler. Thanks
Bob
Thanks Robert.
Thank you very much for such a well done series. Your explanation of the math used to achieve accurate knurling was especially appreciated. I eagerly await the next project!
Thanks Don, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
An excellent series Tom, enjoyed everyone and learnt a lot.
Thank you for taking the time to make all your videos and hope there's many many many more to come.
Regards, Allan.
Thanks Allan. The upcoming knurling tool series should be fun as well.
Tom
Hi Tom, That was a great series watching the birth of the carriage stop
I love watching a professional ply his trade.
It's very educational watching these videos.
I first got hooked on Keith Fenner's videos and fond Tom's Techniques
and now I'm hooked on both.
I have a very old 7.5" South Bend Lathe mostly as a hobby machine in my
small wood and metal working hobby shop.
Thanks Tom for the great videos >Joe Morris
Thanks for watching Joe, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos.
Tom
This series is great, thanks for taking the time to create such detailed videos. This project will be top of the list once I get my home shop set up :)
Thanks Andy, be sure to send me pics if you build it.
Tom
Great series, Tom. I learned a lot by watching this practical demonstration.
Thanks!
Thanks Joseph.
I can't believe how easy you through your father under the bus (ref: how clean HIS lathe was or was not.)
Hope he makes you cut some fire wood, say at least a 1/2 cord or more. :-)
Great series, and thank you for taking the time to share this video, and upload it.
+Stanwood Dave
He would do the same to me if he had the chance. I just get to use a larger audience. :)
Tom
Nice project, it shows a lot of operations which was what I was interested to see. We miss you man where you have been gone to.
Very elegant! I will save all of this work by continuing to use a small c-clamp as my stop.
Tom, great project. Thanks for your efforts in producing this! I enjoyed and learned a lot too. Thumbs up!
You are very welcome and thanks for watching.
Tom
Looks great Tom. I especially liked the in-use piece at the end. It added to the series for sure!
Colin
Thanks Colin.
I said it would be a useful project, so the least I could do was demo it.
Tom
Hi Tom , I've been looking at various carriage stops when i came across your design , very good. it will be one of my future projects , thanks .
Jim from Brookwood
ps. I'm 70 and work on my own too . I have so many ideas in my head ! hope to do some of them in the fullness of time
Hi Jim,
It was an interesting project and it works quite well. Have fun with it!
Tom
Nice job! I learn a lot from your videos, you must have been a great teacher. Looking forward to seeing your website.
+Fred Feliciano
Thanks Fred.
Looks good Tom. Very Entertaining. can't wait to see the videos on the knurlling tool holder.
Eric
Thanks Eric.
Very well explained and yet another great video Tom. I added this to my "to do list" can't wait to make one for myself!
Dennis
It's a fun project Dennis and you'll learn a lot by building it.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Thanks Tom! I learned so much from this series.
That's good to hear. Thanks for watching.
Tom
Nice project Tom. I learned much from the series. I'll have to round up some material and modify the design for our lathe in the shop.
Thanks Bill.
As always, just great! Looks very professional. Thank you very much for this series, Tom. I really enjoyed it! :)
Thanks for watching!
Excellent series Tom! Thanks as always JOE
Thanks Joe.
Muchas gracias por todas las enseñanzas y técnicas descritas en este proyecto, saludos desde México
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!
Tom
Nice series, nice project and exactly what I need for my lathe! Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Thanks a million times. Excellent instructional videos.
Thanks for watching.
Nice carriage stop, nicely made and a great video, I also subscribed 😊
Excellent work Tom.
Thanks Colin.
Really enjoyed this series thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching John, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Tom
Thanks Tom, it turned out very nice.
Thanks for watching.
So THAT's what it's for! :)
What a great series! I'm sure I learned dozens of things. Thanks!
A couple thoughts:
It would've been cool, when you discovered the thimble wouldn't fit, to have machined a concave surface into the throat. I think it would've been neat to have had the thimble snuggle down in there and would've solved the problem without getting too close to the bolt holes.
Second, I think it would be neat to have detents for the spring and ball (assuming 1/1000 is enough granularity). Would love to hear those clicks as you spin the thimble.
Anyway, thanks again. I thoroughly enjoyed the series!
That's the fun part about building something yourself, you can add as many changes as you like.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
If only I knew how to do those things I mentioned! Thanks again!
Great series and a exellent design. Well done :)
Thanks.
Tom, thank you for spending the time to show the design mistakes and how you fixed them in the completed part as well as showing how you changed the design to fix those mistakes.
Another great series.
Is there a chance you can show us a way of doing graduations without a dividing head/rotary table?
Sorry, but some sort of dividing head or rotary table is necessary to graduate a dial, unless you can do it in your lathe. Some guys mount plates or gears on their lathe spindle to divide.
Tom
ctjctj2 I did hear of a way of doing dividing using hose clamps on a disk, then the slots were used as index points. Sadly I cant remember the details of how it worked. A bit of thought may present a way of doing this successfully.
A really nice series Tom. I enjoyed it and learned a lot. Thank you! Fred
Thanks Fred.
Your dad will sure find that useful! Thanks Tom, I enjoyed the video. Mike
Hi Tom,
I've completed both the knurling tool and the carriage stop. The carriage stop I modified to fit my Clausing lathe 5913.
I was hoping to send you a photo of each but haven't figured out how to do this.
If you have a interest to check it out please help me with a way to send you a photo or two.
I wish to thank you for posting these projects for they have helped to improve my abilities greatly. Your instruction is very easy to follow and I had a lot of fun completing them.
Can't wait for the boring head,
I'm 61 and still want to learn also.
Gordon
Thanks Gordon. It's always good to hear back from someone who has made the projects. Contact me through my website and I'll tell you how to send the pics.
Tom
Keep the great videos coming- Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Craftsman atlas design, nicely done
Excellent drawing and machining craftsmanship. I believe allen head bolts are much better than the square heads on an item like this. More convenient to have a short hex wrench so you can leave it sitting in one of the bolts for quick and easy use.
Thanks Darryl.
Socket head screws won't work well in this application because the heads fill with chips. A square head wrench is also much easier on the hands than a hex key.
Tom
OUTSTANDING Tom! really a Great job looking forward to the next project "Knurling Tool" Btw- I'm still looking for a 10" used Atlas so I can get started! the machine I have could never turn out a part such as the one you have made I am sure someone such yourself (Master Machinist) could do it but there is no way I could!
Thanks for All the info
Much appreciated Tom - good to see the tool in use. * Would be interesting to see the same camera angles when you are on your Hardinge mate
All the best
Pete
Figuring out what camera angles to use is tough. I like to show the actual process, but it's nice to see the machine operation as well. At some point I'll probably start using dual cameras, but the budget won't allow it quite yet.
Thanks,
Tom
Hi Tom, I don't normally say "good job", we Brits don't go in for treacly insincerity as much as some, but I have to say a very nice job indeed.
ATB
chris.
Thanks Chris, it was a fun project.
Tom
The carriage stop I made for my Atlas/Craftsman (same lathe, basically) has one bolt securing it to the ways, and it is not enough; it will rotate.
Correct. It would take a pretty good bump to rotate this on with two clamp points.
Hi Tom,
I am enjoying your videos particularly your attention to detail.
I would also like to see more of your machines, maybe a shop tour, please.
Carriage Stop playlist videos 15 & 16 have been deleted, these are of the square head bolts, are these videos posted somewhere else?
Many thanks Greg
Thanks Greg.
The playlists are just a collection of existing videos. Not sure why those two were deleted, but I put them back on the list. Thanks for pointing it out.
Tom
you are a great teacher, thanks
Thanks for watching
Tom, thank-you!
Mike.
Thanks for watching.
If you had the topslide / compound slide, parallel to the axis of the lathe. You could just lock the carriage, zero out the compound dial, measure the part, then advance the compound the amount you need to take off. Simple, that is the way we work here in England. You do not need a graduated carriage stop then, just have a stop for multi parts or when working to a shoulder or boring a depth. All lengths are then controlled by a fixed stop and the amount of advancement on the compound dial.
I do that as well, but it isn't always practical. What if you are turning a part between centers and there is no room to turn the compound?
I'm mandrilhador in Brazil. that and a good production environment
very good this video
Thank you. :)
Did you use solidworks to model that part? I was curious because it looks just like a solidworks drawing. Great video! I should be sleeping but I can't resist a good machining video!
Tom,
Great video.
How about a demonstration on how to use lathe mandrels?
I thought I did that, or do you mean between centers? That actually is a topic on my list.
Tom
Hello Mr. Tom.
I really liked the Carriege Stop kit. Congratulations.
I have a BV20L lathe and I'm dying to make a Carriege Stop kit just like yours.
I ask:
if the kit is installed to a certain extent and, if I forget to remove it and, turn on the automatic advance, the split nut will be damaged, correct ???
If you run the carriage into the stop under power, something will be damaged. There are stops designed to disengage the feed, but this is not one of them.
Tom: Thanks again for another terrific project. Hands down yours is my favorite channel on youtube. I learned an incredible amount and wanted to thank you in particular for going the extra mile with the clamp bolts -- I think I learned more with that video than all the rest (form tool stuff, tempering by heating until the oil flashes off, and a much more straightforward way to mill the four sides of the bolt head than I would have used).
I'm in the process of modifying the design to fit the V-ways of my Logan lathe. While I'm at it, I'm considering using a cam-lever to lock the carriage stop to the ways instead of cap-screws or custom bolts. Since I often jump between collets and a chuck, it seems like I'll be moving the stop around a lot and I hate fussing with wrenches. On the other hand, I tend to overcomplicate my projects. Do you think a cam lock would be a worthwhile modification? I do have a cam lock lever on hand, so I won't need to machine the cam.
Thanks Rex, it's good to hear you are enjoying my channel.
I wouldn't use a cam lock on the carriage stop for the Atlas because of the flat ways. It takes a good amount of clamping pressure to keep the carriage from moving it. You should probably be ok adapting to the Logan because of the V ways.
Keeping it simple is the first order of business in design. I splurged a bit on this project with the raised pad for the indicator mark and the square head bolts, but I think it turned out ok.
If you build one I would love to see a pic. I'm thinking about adding a page to the website for you guys to show off your completed projects. Sort of a place to see what others have done and exchange ideas.
Tom
Toms Techniques If I build it, it will almost certainly cost me a scrapped part or three, and I probably won't finish until 2024. Thanks for the KISS principle reminder. I'm just having fun toying with the design before I start making chips. I'll use cap screws for the, uh, prototype, and I'll let you know if I ever get around to building one (or retrofitting) with a cam lock.
FWIW, the raised pad was a bit too fussy even for me! I figured with my skills I might avoid a scrapped part or two just by eliminating that one little detail.
Success, a very nice looking tool and useful too. Thank you.
Thanks.
Great series!
Thanks
Tom, I have watched this project with interest. However, I seem to have missed one of the processes involving the Thimble. During part 2 of the thimble manufacture, the bore was cut for the mandrel insertion for the calibration/numbering procedures--the bore was then to be opened for the internal threading of the thimble to mate with the shaft. I am sure that you must have completed that process--but for the life of me I am unable to find that in a video. I suspect that the video must have been thimble #5...can you lead me to that or was the internal threading of the thimble covered in another video?
Great project, something to work on this summer when i stand to be in non-heated hobby shop. I will be making one for either the 9" or the Heavy 10 SB which requires changing the body design a little to allow for the SB V in the bed.
Eric
Eric,
I forgot to tap the bore in the last Thimble video, so I did it in the next one in line, which was the first Clamp Bolt Video.
The body will change quite a bit for a South Bend, because the ways are not only V shaped, they are also much thicker. There are a couple of versions on metalworkingfun.com that were adapted to other lathes.
Tom
Thanks for getting back to me with the link for the threading step. Also for the infor re: adaptations for SB. One question if you don't mind. When you used the tailstock center to align the tap, why didn't you use a spring loaded center, just wondering. Certainly your use of the center and driving it did the same thing as the spring would have. Your contributions to hobby guys like myself is wonderful--thank.
ib golfr
I normally just power tap a part like this, but after putting so much work into it, I decided that it would be safer to tap it by hand. The reason I didn't use a spring center is that I don't own one. If you have one then by all means use it. It won't save a lot of time, but every little bit helps.
Tom
I have two 10" Atlas lathes just the one you are working on. Love the large number disk at the cross slide. Did you make it or is that available from some manufacturer??
Bob
I made the cross slide dial myself. It's been about 30 years, so I don't remember much about the design. It works well though.
Tom
I am an amateur garage machinist, I fiddle with a 1941 South Bend Model 9A with the threading gear box that I got from the San Diego Naval Ship yard. have been looking to see if a carriage stop is what I need because when i try threading, I miss where to stop the apron. Would a carriage stop be what I am looking for to auto stop the carriage when its moving faster than I can catch?
Definitely not. A carriage stop like this is meant to stop a carriage that is hand fed. Hitting it under power would destroy the feed gears.
The best way to stop the carriage at a particular spot is to simply turn off the spindle and let it coast to a stop with the half nuts engaged. Then turn the spindle by hand to finish the thread. I like to back the tool out at the end to give it a finished look. Just don't forget to disengage the half nuts before restarting the spindle.
Tom
Toms Techniques thank you for that. That's sort of what I've been doing. Thought maybe there was something easier with these older lathes. Love your channel and am subscribed as I find them very informative for novices like me
How about a modified version of this for the South Bend lathes… they have the v way…
this was great. Thank you!!!
That's going to have to be up to you Jeff. I don't have a South Bend for reference anymore.
Tom
Can you engage the half nuts and thread to the carriage stop? Again does the stop tear up the leadscrew?
+Douglas Thompson
Hi Douglas,
You can thread to a carriage stop under power...once. It will shear the pin off in the lead screw on your lathe if it has one and if not, will break off teeth on the feed gears, both bad and expensive things. A carriage stop is only meant as a hand feed stop. Some lathes, like my Hardinge HLV-H have adjustable lead screw stops that allow you to thread to a shoulder under power, but most do not.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
Tom I also have a atlas I'd like to build a taper attachments think ya can show us how?
That would be a pretty specific project not easily adapted to other lathes, so probably not.
Thanks,
Tom
TFS "thanks for sharing" great little feature. G :)
Are the plans for your projects available?
All of the project videos mention that the drawings are available for download on my website.
Do you have a print for this little gem?
I do. Check my website, tomstechniques.com.
@@TomsTechniques Thank You
your voice and way of speaking reminds me of a hyper caffeinated norm macdonald haha. great video
You aren't the first to mention that. I'll have to check out this Norm Macdonald character.
Thanks for watching.
Tom
How much would one of this will cost me for a Clausing 1500?
Only a few dollars if you make it yourself.
Why, I do declare, I don't think the dial on the cross-feed is original!
It is not. This one reads the diameter directly.
make one for me! lol...
I would like to know why 10 assholes gave this video thumbs down.
Because some people aren't happy unless they are complaining about something.