Volvo McGard wheel lock removal without key by drilling
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2013
- Removing McGard wheel lock bolts on a V70 T5 2003 (MY 2004) without key by drilling them out.
As there are several TH-cam posts on how to remove a wheel lock using a slightly smaller socket and hammer I could not find one showing this method. On several Volvo alloy wheels there is not enough space to hammer on a socket without damaging the wheel itself.
Video contains three parts:
Part 1: Introduction @00:15
Part 2: Drilling @04:37
Part 3: Removing bolt from hub @21:34
I hope you enjoy this video! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great video ,seen a hack on tick-tock using a brake line female union (13mm head ) on a vw golf with lost key ,and to my absolute surprise it worked ,so I tried the same on 3 more different styles of nuts and bolts that been removed from other vehicle’s and it also worked…basically smash the union into the nut and undo ,I used a 13 mm socket on a power bar but bounced with hammer to reduce tension on thread (old trick my dad taught me ….honestly best hack I’ve seen to date and I’ve been in the trade for 40 yrs and used loads of removal tools …
Thanks for taking the time koen for putting the video up, very helpful,shame all these experts are too busy to show us how it's really done. Good on you.
Great work. Brilliant service provided by McGard, too - I had no idea. Shows them to be a great company tbf.
Love the massive vice grips you used as the end, absolute beast of a tool!!!
I received a similar kit from McGard with little instruction. Your video was just what I needed. Great job! Thank you!
I know it's been a long time ago, but well done :-D
The drill centering tubes were a godsend, a good method not to be forgotten.
As Koen has mentioned repeatedly, hammering a socket (or other tool) onto the wheel lock isn't going to work for this particular Volvo. I have the exact same problem with my Volvo and I agree that the "socket method" won't work in this case.
The clearance between the wheel lock outer diameter and the inside diameter of the hole in the alloy rim is EXTREMELY tight - I'd guess the clearance is about 1 mm or even less. Any 12 point socket where the metal is that thin isn't going to have grooves on it that could dig in and grip the wheel lock tightly. There's also the problem of the spinner ring on the outside of this wheel lock that makes the job more difficult.
Thanks for the excellent video, Koen, I'm finding it helpful. For this Volvo, techniques like drilling, cutting, welding might work, but not the "socket method".
I kind of figured thats all it was, i guess some things were just made better back then. Looks nice and rugged with no slipping like on a lot of the new ones. Thanks.
brilliant my friend. someone that actually knows what they are doing. this helped me big time. Thank you
congratulations ,your very determined to do a project like this ,and I'm the same way .
That feeling when youre done after hours and hours of trying and failure.
excellently executed showing.
Cleaning threads or basically anything you take apart is always a good thing! There are always a lot of different opinions about this subject. I don't know what is the best way to go.I just go by cleaning the threads and hub very good and remove the wheels at least once every year. (For mandatory annual inspection.) This way I haven't had any problems in the past.
At the Volvo dealership we used to use oxy-acetylene and blow the locks out, then just have the mobile guy come and refinish the wheel. The paint would only get slightly damaged/browned and was easily fixed. Other times you can do what some other people said, just loosen all the other studs and go for a short, slow drive on a closed road. The seized lock will generally be loosened by that process.
You Sir, are a true professional
You have to write McGard to get a set of drilling guides. After use they want the guides returned. I found they delivered great service! (Western Europe)
I am surprised that the kit does not use solid carbide drills, even carbide tipped would have been better than cobalt for hardened steel.
I have this exact same problem now with a V70.
I thought it might be easier to weld a washer to the locking nut, then a nut on top. Then a quick shock on a T-bar.
Thanks for making the video, it gave me some ideas.
One of them was to sell the car :-) That drill kit is expensive.
Excellant video tutorial. I enjoyed the experience and i'm sure you did too. Thank you.
It happened to on my ford my brother just welded a bolt on to them and used a socket and breaker bar and off them came no damage at all
Here is some mechanic advice. Get yourself a set of high quality wheel lock removal sockets. They have a set that comes with different adapters for different wheel locks. You hammer them onto the wheel lock and then you unzip them and they come off. Applying a little bit of heat to the nut or in this case back of the spindle would have also yielded much better and faster results, with maybe a slight black mark around the hole of the rim depending on the torch strength you are using.
This is why I hover over tips like this...................I prefer slipping a piece of tubing inside the lug hole protecting the wheel. I use a powered hand drill with a small plunge end mill in it's chuck.
The drill is secured to plunge bore straight into by a qucik bodge setup using two of the wheel studs to hold it.
I then make several plunge cuts around the locks perimeter 10mm long using a pattern which will Grip-Tite with a corresponding metric or sae socket. The end mill cost about 8 euro. Time spent making needed plunge cuts with machine tool oil-12 minutes. I remove much less metal with a proper tool.
It took me still at least 2 hours per bolt. This mainly because my working height was with the wheels about 10cm above the ground. I expect you can reduce the drill time needed by half if you can position the car/wheels at "chest" level. This way you can use your legs to produce the power needed...
They sent the removal kit for free, but you have to return it!
This has been my pet hate throughout my entire life until i got a impact wrench. Since this the problem you are showing in your video has become very very rare indeed.
160Nm wow that is seriously tight. I am sure normal torque is 80Nm for wheel nuts.
Standard torque for m14x1.5 is 150Nm, however VW uses such wheel bolts recomends 120 Nm for passenger cars and 180 for transporters/multivans
This is one reason why I threw out my McGard wheel lock when I notice that the key us starting to fail.
Thanks you very much for your job, today i remove my locked bolt like you. Bye
I've asked several "professionals", but none of them could come up with anything useful.. There are some tools that pretend to do the job like special sockets that tighten themselves onto the bolt, tools like Dynomec or something relatively easy like hammering a "cheap" socket onto the bolt and unscrew it. This maybe work on most wheel locks, it does not work on this particular Volvo configuration.
I understand your frustration and I hope someone will stand up and show us how it's done properly!
good job thanks for the great video i am stuck in the same situation
Hope you don't get any tire problems until you've solved this situation!
good lord, the time involved in removing all four nuts is nutz. looks like it took you weeks.
McGard nuts $80
flat tire on the highway $priceless
That guy had the patience of a saint . I would of got the dynamite out by now . Just a thought but if they made a reverse drill bit so you could put the drill in reverse it might even start unscrewing while you're drilling . !maybe? Said the novice 😁
"Using a torque wrench I set the normal bolts... ...to release strain on the lock bolt."
You should only do this to the two nearest bolts, not the opposite ones.
(That will undo some of the effect you want...)
And use a braker-bar to the heavy unscrewing instead of a "wheel-cross" if you want to keep your back unhurt... ;)
(For your wife and jobs pleasure. ;) )
It also places the torque-point near the bolt, not like the cross which has the point far out and puts strain downwards. That is why you put the wood under, but then strain is changed to upwards, you will never be able to balance this torque-point.
At 22:00 you are in great danger of damaging the threads on your bolt that you are using as a "stop bolt", especially when hammering on the wise-grip...
But all in all; Mission accoplished. :)
This is not critic, it is meant as good advice. :)
I work at a tire shop and we are required to break these wheel locks off vehicles on a nearly daily basis. This method shown is over complicated though. We use an easy-out bit that is designed specifically for this and the standard time to break a lock completely off is under one minute. If the wheel was off recently and has been torqued to low spec, it literally takes seconds.
Could you provide all of us a link to this product or a TH-cam videolink where this easy-out bit is shown? I am really interested in the way this tool works...
Koen van Cuijck Deze: www.datona.nl/catalogsearch/result/?q=moerverwijderaars
Moerverwijderaars werken niet omdat de ruimte tussen slotbout en boutgat in wiel te klein is om de moerverwijderaar goed op te kunnen zetten. Dit was het eerste hulpstuk dat ik geprobeerd heb...
Martin has it right with that link. I use them every day on wheel locks from every make. I have yet to come across a lock that these easy out bits cant remove
Does your tool work with locks that have a spinning collar?
Well.... Ofcourse I paid some visits to well known shops around here. As they were all unsuccessful removing the bolts I had to think of a solution for this problem myself. Maybe this video is not of interest to you but I think the information in this video can also be used in different applications.
A drive to the shop you mention will take me at least 12 hours one way... Including petrol and ferry fares my solution is far cheaper ;)
This works for lug nuts that are not over torqued, or otherwise seized on. Al though not for everyone, because it requires more tools and know how. Welding a 3/4" bolt onto the end the locking nut and the using a socket and bar to remove it is quick, easy and relatively inexpensive if you have the tools and know how. I had to do exactly that and it cost me a $2.00 bolt and a $15.00 socket.
The best thing i found is to smack a 3/4 Star shape socket over the McGard type locking wheel nuts and they come str8 off, only 4 or 5 hits and its on solid an almost perfect fit and it doesn't damage the nuts either, took me less than 10 minutes to do all 4 :) it was an old Snap~On 3/4 socket with a half drive air gun. Its Really That Easy lol wish i did a movie clip of it now haha :)
Where do you go or ask for the kit to be shipped to you.
Now to me it looks like the tire was holding air. How I get these frozen wheel locks out and this is if they did not butcher up wheel lock is to loosen all 4 lug bolts a complete turn outwards to a turn and a half done on Mercedes Benz. Next is heat that lug up with a propane or map gas torch a little, spray a lubricant like knocker loose and drive car around block while turning and braking left and right. What this does is flexes the lug and wheel insert allowing the lubricant to do its job. While on that same road test I try till I can loosen that lug bolt. When this happens I tighten back the other regular lug bolts to secure the wheel. I do this to every wheel that has over tightened frozen lug bolts everyone has come out without any damage to wheel when using common sense. Disclaimer if you are not comfortable to do this or cannot follow directions then do not do this method and drill for multiple hours do this at your own risk not responsible for any damages. Good luck.
Is there a link for where to buy the sleeves?
Fantastic! In fact I just ordered another key and it broke again. How did you get them to send you this kit? Thanks,
Next time you take of the rims use some copper grease on the threads.
Using this for 5 years, not a single bolt got stuck, and not a single one came loose by itself.
A very good way to remove security studs, but where can I obtain the drilling guides ?
reply Frank white
Nice one worth a try when it happens to me and the socket trick doesn't work
My question is not the drilling but the stud removal after you got the wheel off. Why are you twisting the stud back and forth?? To remove a wheel stud apply heat on it then hit it straight out with a sledge. Studs are straight splined not threaded in.
That old tool was the coolest that I've ever seen, where can I get one......
I took a hack saw blade and made one end pointy with side cutters and cut two sides of sleeve then used bolt extractor
Tightening the bolts opposite will by elastic deformation put more stress on the bolt you are trying to remove you should loosen those and tighten the ones on either side.
Good point. His strategy seemed concrete on the surface but it does make sense that he could have made it more difficult by being too thorough and tightening them all. Not an easy micro analysis to make on the spot.
Drilling is the long and difficult way. Many videos on how to remove one of these in a few minutes.
That would be a great solution IF there was enough room around the bolts to hammer a socket over them.. Depending on the model alloy wheel and bolt hole diameter that sounds like an fast and effective solution.
Good job. Thank you.
guys in UK there is special socket (pair of two smaller and bigger) available in Halfords called laser locking nut remover made with internal reverse thread, just screw it on and anscrew with bolt in it thats it! did the job yesterday on my volvo V40
+Sebastian Narolewski It doesn't fit on the McGards wheel nuts. I bought a set so I know this for my MK3 Mondeo with 19mm McGards locking wheel nuts. I also tried the 19mm socket hammered on but it just span the socket. I've just contacted McGards to see it I can get this kit.
Cheers
THE SECRET is to have the PROPER size, PROPERLY WORN OUT 12-point socket, that has the PROPER conical deformation! Then the "hardened steel" McGard will be deformed enough to mate with the worn socket ans turn EASILY. Less than 2 minutes to PROPERLY seat the worn (but exact!) socket with a medium sized DEAD-BLOW hammer, to not damage the threads or the bearing! And a large (made-up) X-type wrench to avoid flexing the wheel stud. McGards are useless crap, designed to produce more money when owners are forced to buy a replacement key.
If you are lucky, and the stud isn't rusted solid into place, you can just handscrew it out. On my car two studs were solid. As I could not get a grip on them with the brake discs in place I also had to remove them. During my removal nothing was damaged except the four bolts ofcourse. Goodluck!
Yes that I what I am talking about. I did not do it yet but I do believe
Congratulations for your good job.
That's really crazy to be the real owner of the car and have problems to remove these lock bolts on your own wheels .
Will you still continue to use wheels locks after this ?
Volvo changed these wheel locks to a different type. No problems with those wheel locks so far...
How...hard work!!
wow thats alot of work
Find a socket that is slightly too small to fit over the lug nut, metric or sae. Heat the socket to expand it then pound it onto the nut. Let cool so it contracts and grips the nut. Done.
Great video
Only try this method if your left with no choice, ie if socket 19mm wont fit between nut and alloys hole, as to drill around the alloys, not to mention one could damage the thread that the nut screws onto, when simple the safe and easy way to do it is with a hammer, a good twelve teeth 19mm socket, made of good quality like ( snap on etc) and a heavy hollow bar for extra force if needed..plus its taken say 20 minutes per wheel using the drilling method to remove the locking nut, were as the 19mm socket way takes about say around 3 minutes per wheel
In MY case, the beautiul (and useless) McGards were removed with a 18 mm socket, not a 19!
Koen,
I am currently having the same problem with my McGard wheel locks. What was the time that it took you for each wheellock? I am currently using a quarter inch drill on the first Wheelock and it's going very very slow and I still have two more wheels to go.
Sorry to hear you have the same issue. It took me a lot of time as well. This was partly because I did not have a lift to jack up the car and find a comfortable working position. Sitting on the ground it took me at least 4 hours per wheel to drill out the bolts, but it's quite some time ago now and time consuming "traumas" are easy to forget ;) Most important is de quality of your drilling machine and your drills. A (few) high quality sharp cobalt drill(s) will significantly reduce the time needed...
In most combinations wheels/locks that might be a succesful solution but in this case unfortunately not. I went to several professionals that told me over the phone to come over and get the locks removed. Unfortunately not one professional was able to get them off.. Not enough space between the head of the bolt and the "end" of the bolt hole. You would do everybody here a great favour if you post a link to a tool that gets this specific job done!
Great video!
What mm is the final largest drill please?
Sorry just watched again.
1/2", so thats 12.7 mm, so I'll buy a 13mm drill.
I don't need the smaller ones as I've already got pretty far in.
I declare a foul on the play. You ended up using a tool that no one has. That's cheating.
what is the giant BAHCO tool you used called
ah. a model 93 pipe wrench
My key broke two days ago when I wanted to change over to winter tires. It was a McGard set. I ordered a new key but I WILL NEVER put a wheel lock on again. With shipping this key is going to cost me $60 to get it. In my opinion McGard should give me a new one if it failed free of charge. I would pay with no argument if I lost it. But their crappy product didn't last two years.
I put on my lugs by hand and torque them. I have the spinning collars so hammering a socket won't work. I got the spinner off and my wheel lock remover can't bite what's left. So now I wait for another key. Local tire shops will remove them for $80 to $100. The one and only tool that can get it off is $350 US and they only sell it to you if have a business license.
I checked the Jeep Forums because they sell McGard at the dealers andevryone is having the same problem. If my wife got stuck out somewhere we would have payed for a tow as well over a crappy product.
The moral to the story is .....don't use wheel locks. They are a rippoff and if a thief wants your gear...they will get it anyway. That is why you pay insurance.
Thats just a rip off! If its a original lock nutt that came with the car, get to the retailer that sell them new and just borrow the right socket, the should have a set with all diffrent keys. Its just good service, I pay about 10$ at the most.
navenifickan I took it into the dealer to remove them during my routine oil change, they ended up having to weld a nut on to the locks to get them off. The service manager said that they never had a problem before with them and the always use an impact gun to put them on and remove them. Which I thought you weren't suppose to do. Makes me wonder if they did the last oil service because it said on tge reciept prior tightened lug nuts. At any rate they are off now and I won't put on another set of McGards
Oh I see! Well good riddens of them then :)
Heer Coen waar bestel ik de set mvg
Merci formidable.
You could knock in an Allen key and try and turn it to remove the bolt
Watching this vid makes me glad I have a welder. I would have welded a nut to the lock, if it was weldable with standard mig wire. But if the lock had to be drilled off, I still would have welded a nut to the remaining part to make removal easier.
That Bahco tool, I'm going to see if I can get one somehow!
either that or find the local crack head and give him $5 to drill them out while you watch him sweat like a pig.
Mark Holbrook will not damage the wheel?
Felipe
The wheel will not be damaged if it is covered to keep weld spatter off it. The heat woll not damage it either.
NO. The arc welder will induce enough current through the roller bearings to pit them and damage the bearing in short term (the pits will be microscopic, but the bearing WILL FAIL SOON. The best way is to go to an EXPERIENCED guy that has the EXACT, worn buy very close size, 12point socket, which has a VERY SLIGHT conical deformation. They put the 12 point socket on the McGard lock by hammering with a medium size DEAD-BLOW hammer and soft, careful blows (a hard hammer will damage the bearings too!) After they seat the used socket on the McGard lock, they use a long breaker bar or a large (really large, fabricated X-type wrench) and easily remove it. Before Iost the key, I believed the McGards to be a great product, made form the best material, hardened to the best numbers, etc BLAH BLAH BLAH. The old technician took if of from my car in less than 2 minutes flat! McGards are crap, higly overrated and useless. ANY thief will remove them as easily and fast. Waste of money and FALSE peace of mind, plus a pain to bear if you loose the key. AND the replacement key need you to send the serial number, which is easily lost too after some years. Don't buy them!
I would not pass current through the bearings either! The ground has to be attached to the lug directly, or to another place such as another lug. My son is a mechanic and he has a socket with flutes that bites into the lug, so do many thieves. It works OK, but most people don't have one, and use it one time, probably never again.
me gusto la llave que usas casi al final parece una stellson minuto 46:23 te dedicas a ese trabajo o solo por pasatiempo como quiera dale duro ..... saludos
You're welcome!
The real question is, why are you locking Volvo wheels?
+jacobdyem Stock wheels are a hot market. More stock rims are stolen than aftermarket.
jacobdyem uhhhhhhh? Let's try....... because he wants to for starters.
If you clean the threads of all of your wheel bolts with a wire brush, then coat the threads with a small amount of silicone grease where they rust into the hub, you will have a much happier time for the future...
I do believe there must be a better method to remove these wheel locks on this specific alloy wheel. I also believe you know how to do it. I invite you to make a video reply on my video and show all of us how this should be done and what tools are used to get it done in 30 minutes.
If you can't or won't, I see your reply to this video as unwanted advertising. Otherwise me and many others will be very thankful for your tutorial....
please show me how to do ite faster, I am wasting my wrist in the workshop and the cobals drills... Every week 2-3 times.... wheel lock rusted and worn.... how to please?
There are many easier ways for an ametuer like yourself to do this. Its very clear this is the first or second time you have touched any tools.
Simpler method is remove wheel nuts and drive slowly for about 100 metres lock should be just finger tight after that, put nuts back on remove lock, tried and tested method.
NOT EXACTLY! You do NOT remove the other uts, just loosen them half a turn, but leave them on the wheel. Otherwise, you are going to deform the stud with the stuck lock.
Félicitations. Plus que 3 roues...
Basically I sent McGard an email where I stated the problem. In the attachments of that email I put very clear pictures of my locking bolts and car with license plate. I also included a scan/photo of my cars official documents and a copy of my passport.
Inductive heater will free up the lug bolt to
+Steve Boyd Good idea, but I think 99% of the viewers does not have an inductive heater. After heating you still need a lock key with a good fit.
So only try koens way if your confident not to injure yourself or cause any damage to the alloys, etc...but the best method is to keep the key safe and get an extra one too...I had this nightmare when i brought a car, so always ask the seller about any locked wheels, be well all!
I believed McGard locks were the "best". At least, they looked shiny and well built. The info on the package was "convincing". WELL, they are CRAP! When I lost the key (an stupid policewoman made me move the car when I was changingt a flat tyre, and in the disgusting discussion with the woman, the key was left on the wheel and falled into a drain, impossible to remove or fish it. So I used a gooey "sealant to temporarily fix the tyre and then went to an experienced guy who used a well worn 12-point socket which had a slight conical deformation, so he hammered the socket on the beautiful, shiny chrome of the "hardened steel" McGard, and after seating the socket well on the McGard, easily removed it with surprising easy and mastering! so much for McGards "quality"... they are completely useless pice of crap.
If it had put you to sleep it would have not have been torture.. Hope you woke up feeling fresh!
I just hammer on a socket to the lug.
Was that gurhring drill with the kit.Or did you buy it separate ? Best twist drills money can buy I'm Applications engineer for a big Cnc machine tool manufacturer.So I know how expensive these drills are.
+Carlos I don't know what brand it was. Drills came with the kit. However I did buy some new Cobalt drills as the drills that came with the kit were already used by previous mechanics. The first hole was the most difficult to drill in my situation. Really like those Cobalt drills, they work perfectly! Have used them a couple of times now.
Hey there i have the same adapter and same problem, can you buy online the adaptor? Thank you!
I'm sorry... Don't know if that is possible. I got rid of those bolts 6 years ago and didn't look back :)
@@kvcuijck thank you!
What i do now is use a straight point air hammer and break away peices of the lock near the ring. After the ring breaks i just used a twist socket and take the lock off.
Sounds like a solution. How likely is it to damage your alloy wheel using this method?
Koen van Cuijck it is likey to get damaged unless the person has surgical like precision. this is what i'll have to do until i can get some sockets made for the drill bits.
where can i get this kit? mcgard claims to not have one
Dear Joseph,
I received it from McGard Germany after sending them a digital copy of my passport and car documents. Hope you find a solution soon!
Regards,
Koen
i had same problem some idiot in garage used air gun to do up locking nuts
Did you order the drill off kit straight from McGard?
That is correct. After use I had to return the kit.
Three more to go! Try heating the bolt up first, maybe if lucky. Use anti-seize compound next time, easier to come off.
Koen you think i can drill it out without McGard drill kit? I bought Einhell RT ID-110 driller and titanium drill bits, but no success (it just cant perforate the lock bolt).
I think McGard will not send me a kit because a live in Brazil, but sent email to them anyway.
And either thinking about giving a shot to cobalt M35 drill bits as a last resort.
Nice video, got pain job and fully reward.
Dear Rodrigo,
I think it will be very hard to do without a McGard drill kit. If you have the possibility to machine the sleeves yourself it might be possible. Without guidance it's almost impossible to drill straight into the bolt.
You need Cobalt drills... I had a "cheap" Black & Decker drilling machine that was not up to the task. Was very happy to borrow a professional drilling machine from a friend. I really hope McGard can help you out in Brazil!
Good luck and I hope you get it done also!
What is the name of that wrench he uses at 25:00 and where can i get one, that thing looks like it would work better then your standard pipe wrence in situations like that.
It's nothing more than a large pipe wrench. This one was used on a farm maintaining tractors en large machines. I guess it's 50-ish years old..
Koen van Cuijck
www.amazon.com/Bahco-144-Universal-Wrench-8-Inch/dp/B001E4FOSY
fucking wheel keyed nuts! that's what car insurance is for. never have that crap on my vehicles.
there is a much simpler way.
weld a steel bar (rebar) to the center of the lock nut... then use a vice grip with an extension if necessary and turn .... the nut wont be any good after but it will be gone and no damage to the rim or anything... the process takes about 5 minutes.
I did it on my nut and it worked.
+Norval Mckoy This was not an option for me as I cannot weld... I would still be afraid to damage the nice set of rims though. Welding also generates a lot of heat around the weld.
If you use spot welding, the one which uses high current, not the flame type, it will work.
After drilling the first nut and gaining some experience, how long did it take to do the others?
They sent you a removal kit for free, and you didn't have to return it to them? Does this method ruin the stud, or did you drill a little too deep? Thanks for posting, this job is coming my way, I fear:-(
Koen's Volvo uses lug bolts rather than lug nuts, therefore there were no stud's to damage ... just the worthless threaded part of the destroyed lug bolt that had to be removed to make way for new bolt.
i would like to say that the new key that came with the removal kit was to replace the key for the other three wheels !!!!! so tell me how you going to get them off?
snootystu Ehhh. Normally you use the same key for every locking bolt in all four wheels? However, if you damage the key on the first wheel you will have some problems with the rest of the wheels...
so you think because one nut is tight all the other three will be also...i would have tried to release the others before destroying the new key...and by the way i have the same type of keys for my locking nuts on my car and its not the case that all the nuts will be of the same over tightness
snootystu Difficult to tell. If all locking bolts were tightened using the same “faulty” method there is a large chance they are all really stuck...
Well made clip though!
por cierto se ve que estaba muy apretado y muy mojoso tenia mucho que no lo movian ....
all you need to do is cut the spinning ring off with a die grinder , and use a twits socket
dude,just take a slightly larger socket and pound it over the lock nut,then carefully break it... works everytime in mins.
That doesn't work with bolts that have a spinning collar, like the one in this video
im having the same problem with my gti it has the exact same key and pattern i have tried every trick and specialty sockets for this problem but nothing has worked
There is no VW dealer around that can solve this problem for you? If all else fails (like in my situation) you can always contact McGard and try to get one of those drilling sets....
im in the process of drilling it right now these are the worst thing ever made
Good luck!
Hard way I prefer easy way, deep spanner hammer and after 5 min finish.