Great test. I run the RS700's in my 4WS rig. I would say I noticed the lower torque of the 700 but I'm comparing it to my RS800 V2. I ultimately did go a shorter servo horn in the rear, but I suspect it is due to how I used a Y plug from the JST tap plus I was lazy and didn't clear the lead free solder off the XT60 when I installed the JST tap. You shouldn't really mix leaded and lead free solder for long term connections. The solder joint goes gray and cloudy, and gets brittle. You see this play out in guitar amp repairs in modern RoHS amps. Anyhow, I wanted the lighter weight low pro servo in the rear and I'm still glad I purchased the RS700. There are not many options in direct power low pro servos. After my experience with a glitchy SHV650, I wasn't interested in one of their low profile options
When I need to tap that JST onto the XT60-- which is pretty much every time-- I've found it's a whole lot easier to just cut the OE plug off and start fresh. I wouldn't think the factories "over there" would have all gone lead-free, but the solder they use is awful. Kester 44 or nothing. I finally got the SHV500 replaced, so Jake can be nice and quiet. Almost all of the noisy boys have been purged from the fleet-- well, at least "relocated" to places where noisy don't matter. Like anything Arrma.
@@CrawlerCanyon Yeah I should have just started fresh but sometimes I get cheap and lazy, which is a terrible combination sometimes 😆 Since I was soldering to a 1080, I would like to think Hobbywing isn't being shady about their RoHS compliance. If a product is going to the EU or UK, it has to be lead free. Who knows with the other Amazon brands, but you can tell right away if you add leaded solder and the joint grays after being shiny
Thanks for sharing this with us, from watching the Power supply current display, I think the NSDRC has an internal overcurrent protection, have you tried to dial it slowly? Thanks!
The rickety stairs on that stand was the first time I had ever cut risers. The staircase that's on the stand now is rebuilt out of the same pair of risers. It's still a great view from up there, a whoppin' 8 feet off the ground.
I had a heck of a time trying to locate it myself, found what appeared to be the same thing from Zoskay RC but who knows. Thanks for the link, I was about to ask too! Thanks for another fun servo testing adventure @Crawler Canyon
Great vid and good selection of servos. Since we've mentioned amp draw before, and we've now seen another really high, is there a way to see numbers when powered by an ESC?
I think what I'll have to do is "expand" the test rig so I can include a 1080 and a receiver, so I can do some "really real world" pulls-- see what something like the amp-hungry PRO will do when confronted with the harsh reality of 3 amps. I happen to have both of those things-- I just need to finish building those 50+ lil' Christmas houses so I can get back to properly goofing off.
Thanks for doing the 35kg pro. I mentioned It in one of your last videos. They have become my go to cheap servo and was curious if they made their claim. Pretty happy with it!
@@CrawlerCanyon Sorry, I was mistaken lol. I was a lot of your content after a very long days work and am drained most the time. I'm slowly switching my vehicles over to nsdrc from reefs since watching your testing videos, especially the one on the nsdrc 900. That thing is a beast.
I’m running the HW 1080 G2 on 7.4v @ 4A in my sendero SE with the standard element grabbers. 3S Lipo. What would be your recommendation for a servo upgrade that can be powered from the receiver? I say receiver because I wouldn’t even know how to direct power one 😂
@@CrawlerCanyon I just watched your review on the servo; looks great! Question though: you mentioned it’s backwards. How would I get it to, well, not be backwards? 😂
Least case scenario, you get a brownout as the servo draws all of the power from the BEC and you basically lose control of all vehicle functions for a moment. Worst case scenario, the BEC dies.
@@marckjato yeah, you're never going to see an issue from any of the huge ESCs for truggies and whatnot-- MAX6, Mamba Monster, etc. Direct-power servos for those kinds of rigs are not super common, and are also (usually) super expensive, so a big BEC to run big servos is pretty much standard.
Very interesting, having a mix of Holmes, NSD, Amazon, Hitec, and Savox. The servo wars are getting crazy. In comp trucks I have a Holmes 500v2, NSD 500B and RS700 and find all of them more than enough. Of course you can stall any servo out in the right spot but a little wiggle and just about any servo 500oz or up will come free. However I am trying out some of the blue bird servos on a recommendation from a friend. So far the speed and power per $ is very impressive. The 3507 specifically in my bomber has surprised me for a $70 servo. And have the BLS-H51B-V2 to test in my Ryft, hoping that the helical cut gear holds up to the harder hits. But possibly ones to test out if the need arises. Keep up the great videos!
Any servo that will pull 8A is good for that. Now that we can get direct power for 60 bucks, the market for Rx-powered servos that 100% need an external BEC is dwindling rapidly. IMO.
My research may very well suck, but did you ever do a test with the RS700 V2? Those numbers look impressive compared to heavy hitters like the reefs smart 1100.
I have not, because I'm generally looking at servos 32kg and up-- and really, I try to stay above 36kg. At the $70 pricepoint, I'm usually grabbing another Flash Hobby 60kg and pocketing the extra 8 bucks.
How hard is it to take servo that's not direct power and make it direct power? Do you just take the wires for power remove them from the connector and put a connector on those?
You can do it by building a Y-harness, with the red wire for the servo going directly to the (+) terminal on the ESC connector. But the thing is, RX-powered servos have no internal voltage regulators, so as the battery runs down, the servo will get slower and weaker. So caveat emptor.
That blue case is impressive, but you need to run a serious BEC to get the current to supply that power. At which point you might as well buy an inexpensive direct power servo. Edit: lol, you just said that.
If you were running off of a typical ~3A internal BEC, I'm not surprised. An external BEC is pretty much compulsory with peak draws that high. The non-Pro version draws less than half the amps. Coreless motors are power hungry.
This is a winning formula that I can't use, as I don't run on 2S. And that's a realization that I literally just had right now. Wow. I didn't even feel it happen.
@@CrawlerCanyon I feel ya, I just have 2 trucks that are set up on 2s and do amazing, with direct powered Amazon servos. No BEC, my main (3s truck) has a NSDRC rs800v2.
It's a little disappointing that NSDRC inflated the numbers. Totally not disappointed in the servo itself. When you're committed to a hard body, you gotta save those above cg grams somewhere.
There's definitely a point of "too fast." The AGFRC SA75CVSW V2 is my benchmark for that-- get the front end pinned, let go of the wheel, and the speed + torque will just eject the rig right off of the rocks.
I know that some of the big scale stuff uses two steering servos, one per wheel. I wonder If I can make a custom SOA mount to fit two servos... would only need half the torque per servo... and then figuring out how to get the channel mixing and endpoints to work... but definitely interesting.
I'm so used to seeing DS3225, it never ever registered to me that this one got a different number. The red case 25KG is the DS3225MG, the blue case 35KG is the DS3225SG, and this one is the DS3235 PRO. Would have been nice if they'd spent the extra 25¢ on a new case that says "45KG" on it.
Ive been shamelessly flogging the amazon blue direct powered at 3s for 2 weeks now. Complete beast. It hasnt even gottwn warm. Its just takes it.
Great test. I run the RS700's in my 4WS rig. I would say I noticed the lower torque of the 700 but I'm comparing it to my RS800 V2. I ultimately did go a shorter servo horn in the rear, but I suspect it is due to how I used a Y plug from the JST tap plus I was lazy and didn't clear the lead free solder off the XT60 when I installed the JST tap. You shouldn't really mix leaded and lead free solder for long term connections. The solder joint goes gray and cloudy, and gets brittle. You see this play out in guitar amp repairs in modern RoHS amps. Anyhow, I wanted the lighter weight low pro servo in the rear and I'm still glad I purchased the RS700. There are not many options in direct power low pro servos. After my experience with a glitchy SHV650, I wasn't interested in one of their low profile options
When I need to tap that JST onto the XT60-- which is pretty much every time-- I've found it's a whole lot easier to just cut the OE plug off and start fresh. I wouldn't think the factories "over there" would have all gone lead-free, but the solder they use is awful. Kester 44 or nothing.
I finally got the SHV500 replaced, so Jake can be nice and quiet. Almost all of the noisy boys have been purged from the fleet-- well, at least "relocated" to places where noisy don't matter. Like anything Arrma.
@@CrawlerCanyon Yeah I should have just started fresh but sometimes I get cheap and lazy, which is a terrible combination sometimes 😆
Since I was soldering to a 1080, I would like to think Hobbywing isn't being shady about their RoHS compliance. If a product is going to the EU or UK, it has to be lead free. Who knows with the other Amazon brands, but you can tell right away if you add leaded solder and the joint grays after being shiny
Thanks for sharing this with us, from watching the Power supply current display, I think the NSDRC has an internal overcurrent protection, have you tried to dial it slowly? Thanks!
😂😂😂ive never had so many laughs watching a servo test ,your brilliant! And remind me of ed helms from the hangover film 🎉 keep up the good work dude
I just saw your video with the driver stand from the older track. incredible how fast u transformed the canyon with as much detail as you did.
The rickety stairs on that stand was the first time I had ever cut risers. The staircase that's on the stand now is rebuilt out of the same pair of risers.
It's still a great view from up there, a whoppin' 8 feet off the ground.
Is this the AvE of RC stuff? Great video btw been using these videos to find out how to build my Ecto on a "budget" best bang for your buck parts
You're having way too much fun with this 😂. Great video.
Where can you find the pro. I can only find the regular one
This is the one: www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2S9SXM2
I had a heck of a time trying to locate it myself, found what appeared to be the same thing from Zoskay RC but who knows. Thanks for the link, I was about to ask too! Thanks for another fun servo testing adventure @Crawler Canyon
Great vid and good selection of servos. Since we've mentioned amp draw before, and we've now seen another really high, is there a way to see numbers when powered by an ESC?
I think what I'll have to do is "expand" the test rig so I can include a 1080 and a receiver, so I can do some "really real world" pulls-- see what something like the amp-hungry PRO will do when confronted with the harsh reality of 3 amps. I happen to have both of those things-- I just need to finish building those 50+ lil' Christmas houses so I can get back to properly goofing off.
Thanks for doing the 35kg pro. I mentioned It in one of your last videos. They have become my go to cheap servo and was curious if they made their claim. Pretty happy with it!
The only positive from a low amp draw from a direct power servo is giving you more time to crawl. Can't be mad at the results on the 35kg pro.
Great video more servo testing please excellent work
Which video did you test the reefs raw 500 in?
None of them? I don't own any Reefs.
@@CrawlerCanyon Sorry, I was mistaken lol. I was a lot of your content after a very long days work and am drained most the time. I'm slowly switching my vehicles over to nsdrc from reefs since watching your testing videos, especially the one on the nsdrc 900. That thing is a beast.
I’m running the HW 1080 G2 on 7.4v @ 4A in my sendero SE with the standard element grabbers. 3S Lipo. What would be your recommendation for a servo upgrade that can be powered from the receiver? I say receiver because I wouldn’t even know how to direct power one 😂
Flash Hobby 50kg coreless. amzn.to/49MLjbQ. I'm running mine at 7.4V as well. Plenty of power, quiet.
@@CrawlerCanyon as always, you’re a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks for supporting this newbie!
@@CrawlerCanyon I just watched your review on the servo; looks great! Question though: you mentioned it’s backwards. How would I get it to, well, not be backwards? 😂
@@baumannj724 Just reverse the servo on your transmitter. I have no idea why some servos are "clockwise" and some are "counter-clockwise."
@@CrawlerCanyon oh, so that’s what that switch “ST. REV” is for on your favorite transmitter of all time: the Flysky G4P 😂😂
Another great servo test video. Nice work.
Sorry for my ignorance but what can be the effects of a servo that draws that much amps?
Least case scenario, you get a brownout as the servo draws all of the power from the BEC and you basically lose control of all vehicle functions for a moment. Worst case scenario, the BEC dies.
@@CrawlerCanyon there’s less chances of that happening with a hobbywing max6 g2 that pushes constant 8A than with a RTR traxxas esc I suppose?
@@marckjato yeah, you're never going to see an issue from any of the huge ESCs for truggies and whatnot-- MAX6, Mamba Monster, etc. Direct-power servos for those kinds of rigs are not super common, and are also (usually) super expensive, so a big BEC to run big servos is pretty much standard.
@@CrawlerCanyon thank you sir!
Do you have a link for the PRO?
Certainly: www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2S9SXM2
@@CrawlerCanyon Thank You!
Very interesting, having a mix of Holmes, NSD, Amazon, Hitec, and Savox. The servo wars are getting crazy. In comp trucks I have a Holmes 500v2, NSD 500B and RS700 and find all of them more than enough. Of course you can stall any servo out in the right spot but a little wiggle and just about any servo 500oz or up will come free.
However I am trying out some of the blue bird servos on a recommendation from a friend. So far the speed and power per $ is very impressive. The 3507 specifically in my bomber has surprised me for a $70 servo. And have the BLS-H51B-V2 to test in my Ryft, hoping that the helical cut gear holds up to the harder hits. But possibly ones to test out if the need arises.
Keep up the great videos!
The amazon servo is good to brown out your ESC😁
Any servo that will pull 8A is good for that. Now that we can get direct power for 60 bucks, the market for Rx-powered servos that 100% need an external BEC is dwindling rapidly. IMO.
My research may very well suck, but did you ever do a test with the RS700 V2? Those numbers look impressive compared to heavy hitters like the reefs smart 1100.
Have you ever tested the EcoPower WP120T?
I have not, because I'm generally looking at servos 32kg and up-- and really, I try to stay above 36kg. At the $70 pricepoint, I'm usually grabbing another Flash Hobby 60kg and pocketing the extra 8 bucks.
How hard is it to take servo that's not direct power and make it direct power? Do you just take the wires for power remove them from the connector and put a connector on those?
You can do it by building a Y-harness, with the red wire for the servo going directly to the (+) terminal on the ESC connector.
But the thing is, RX-powered servos have no internal voltage regulators, so as the battery runs down, the servo will get slower and weaker.
So caveat emptor.
@Crawler Canyon that makes since. Thesis for the info.
cool servos and great information and testing
I could hear the disappointment in your voice when testing the second, more expensive servo... I feel your pain.
That blue case is impressive, but you need to run a serious BEC to get the current to supply that power. At which point you might as well buy an inexpensive direct power servo.
Edit: lol, you just said that.
It's a quiet MKS 550 that costs 60% less. That amp draw tho. Whenever I see any servo break 7A, I'm like... dang.
I had one of those 35k in my truck and lasted me about 8 trail runs before it took a shit on me.
If you were running off of a typical ~3A internal BEC, I'm not surprised. An external BEC is pretty much compulsory with peak draws that high. The non-Pro version draws less than half the amps. Coreless motors are power hungry.
cut the red wire and hook to 2s battery, tag in the negative. profit. perfect fit for a 2s truck
This is a winning formula that I can't use, as I don't run on 2S. And that's a realization that I literally just had right now. Wow. I didn't even feel it happen.
@@CrawlerCanyon I feel ya, I just have 2 trucks that are set up on 2s and do amazing, with direct powered Amazon servos. No BEC, my main (3s truck) has a NSDRC rs800v2.
I like to think I'm more of a pest than a badger.
It's a little disappointing that NSDRC inflated the numbers. Totally not disappointed in the servo itself. When you're committed to a hard body, you gotta save those above cg grams somewhere.
I don’t like fast servos on a crawler it’s not realistic I slow mine in the tx a lot
There's definitely a point of "too fast." The AGFRC SA75CVSW V2 is my benchmark for that-- get the front end pinned, let go of the wheel, and the speed + torque will just eject the rig right off of the rocks.
High amp draw indicates inefficient.
Cheaper components will do that. But at today's prices, a single RS700 is at least 5 Amazon blue cases. So... as always, everything is a compromise.
I was wondering if you could one day do a following test: put two serwos in series and see if they can combine a pulling force. Mh... 🤔
I know that some of the big scale stuff uses two steering servos, one per wheel. I wonder If I can make a custom SOA mount to fit two servos... would only need half the torque per servo... and then figuring out how to get the channel mixing and endpoints to work... but definitely interesting.
What you have there is a 3235 , another great informative video
I'm so used to seeing DS3225, it never ever registered to me that this one got a different number. The red case 25KG is the DS3225MG, the blue case 35KG is the DS3225SG, and this one is the DS3235 PRO. Would have been nice if they'd spent the extra 25¢ on a new case that says "45KG" on it.