Another opportunity to learn, I particularly enjoyed the carbide end mill in the chuck that was allowed to slip when it grabbed the bottom of the helicoil rather than riskibg it breaking and the subswquent headaches. Also the bonus fixture at the end of the video to ensure it would fit when you took it back to the machine for final fitting... Thanks for sharing :)
What a great job! I was mentally with you for the whole time. I run a small machine shop and I do mostly work on medium size diesels like Cat C-15s. And I am renowned for my patience. And so i have to save other people's f*ckups very often. Broken taps in main bearing blocks for example. Or (my favourite) snapped stainless or titanium bolts in magnesium alloy. Hope you get paid well! And thank you for those great videos. I enjoy every one! Greetings from Germany!
All to many memories of extracting broken exhausts studs. The last one I did was seven of twelve on my 5.9 Cummins under the bed in the diesel pusher motor home. My ribs hurt for a week. Do or die I always say. I got them all out. Great attitude and patience Gary. If i took video of me doing this it would be one solid beeeèeeeep.
Thank you Randy. Back in the day when I worked on tractors all day long I removed a lot of broken exhaust bolts or studs. Most of those were done in the field by hand. Hope you’re doing well Randy, Gary
Another interesting repair. Very nice calm approach to the job, I can see any attempt at short cuts would turn into a Mr. crabby yelling match. Enjoyed, cheers!
Your patience is inspirational Gary, Finesse is always a better approach than the hack and smash school of repair. The young tradesmen then some would call lazy or stupid are neither, they were just never taught patience. Another great video.
Hello from San Antonio, TEXAS! EXCELLENT information that I learn from your videos. I like how just take your time as should be without breaking things.
Over the years I have found that using left hand tooling really makes a big deal with removing studs. Many times you can just bump the stud with the drill and it will thread out. Not all the time but a lot of time. Also, using a stick welding rods on top of the stud works miracles. But there are times you have to totally drill, tap to save the day. I personally use a vacuum cleaner instead of an air nostril. Keeps the workspace way cleaner. Keep chips out of the turbo. But I also do not work on super size turbos either. NIce work fella too. Peace vf
Nice to see the correct way to remove broken studs. Drilling is a great way if you have the proper mill capabilities to get to the centers accurately. Thumbs Up
Nice job! We gathered up every heli-coil in our shop and put them in the scrap hopper! We now use thread inserts on every job we do that requires refurbishing a threaded hole. We also invested in straight flute carbide drills in various sizes they seem to last a lot longer than normal carbide drills. The holes we work on with stamping dies is usually 3/4"- 1" holes so thread inserts work better in our applications. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing.
Joe, appreciate you watching the video and leaving a comment. Helicoils definitely have their place. There’s times you just don’t have the wall thickness for some of the other inserts. When you don’t have much wall thickness that’s when the Heli coil‘s work nice.
I always like it when a Old Iron video pops up it's fun to see how someone else goes about things! Now they say you should never chuck an end mill in a drill chuck 😁 Good thing you, I and some others I know disregard that advise when it suits us! It's outside the box thinking such as this separates the repair man from the parts changers or what's the new word they use? Oh yeah... Technician! I love it when a customer says I have some broken bolts can you get them out? My first question is have you tried to remove them yet? Outstanding technique especially on the flange fixture. Yes a welding table that you can weld to is a must. Excellent video as always, Cheers Man
Warren, When it comes to machining I think I have always thought outside the box. Hundred percent self-taught so I did not have anybody to tell me I was doing something wrong :) Thanks for watching. Gary
Another excellent and informative video. Removing broken studs and bolts has always fascinated me (ever since I broke off a 1/4" stud with Whitworth thread on my Jaguar XK120 engine almost 60 years ago). Spark erosion seems to be one of the most effective methods, but one does need the rather expensive machine. I smiled when I heard "Jenbacher" because I used to ski near Jenbach/Tyrolia in Austria. Are those marine engines? Since Jenbacher engines are generally gas engines I wouldn't think so. Thinking back on some of your other work I remember you had also worked on a number of Waukesha gas engines at a gas pumping station, so I guess the Jenbachers would also be from that environment. In any case, thanks for a great video.
When I first saw the thumbnail image. I thought. Big turbo charger or fan cooled hemroid cushion. I am looking at a postage size image. I am taking as I have not gotten to the end of the video if you use bottoming helicoil taps to clean out the threads for new helicoil inserts. I wonder if helicoil offers versions for high temp installations.
4:15 wait so you use the ball endmill to kind of find center instead of a drill? because it'll reach the outside faster than it will go deep? I guess it wouldn't guide a larger drill either. Love little tricks I learn from your channel.
Bobby, I started out with a carbide centering bit. But I ended up knocking off the edge so I went to the carbide ball endmill. It really doesn’t take much to start a centerpoint for the Drill to follow. Even though The ball endmill has a round radius the Drill Bits still follows it very nicely for getting the drill bit started. But the final centering is done with the largest in Endmill and slightly moving the table to find center. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment. Gary
What egt? Maybe it needs aluminum studs so you can just melt them out in the future. I often encounter stainless in exhausts which is just plain aweful as it is always galled and won't come out.
Brian, they have tried several different style studs trying to get something that holds up better. But over time the heat generated from these turbos freeze everything up. Boring out the studs and pilling out what’s left is about the only option for these. I am sure you have done your share of removing broken bolts or studs over the years. I always appreciate you stopping by the channel. I don’t leave to many comments, but I never miss any of your videos. Gary
Dale, I use my share of left-handed Drill Bits. But with that being said, if a left-handed drillbit takes the broken portion out it really wasn’t stuck. In a case like this where you have to use carbide you got to drill all the material out anyway so it really doesn’t make much difference left handed or right. But no I have not ever tried to get a left handed carbide endmill should I do not know if anybody makes one.
So... when you're centering the original round-nose drill, is that by eye? Do you have any special technique, or is it just a "feel" thing you have to have?
03:10 and on. My question is that despite this being a turbo unit is there anyway that you could implore an anti-seize copper coating while threading in the studs whether it be a NEW turbo unit or not or even after such as in this case? Or does is get so HOT that eventually the copper coating just breaks down so much that the studs become one with the turbo housing?
JT, I have never found anything yet you could put on the studs that would make a difference later. There’s just too much heat developed. I appreciate you checking out the video. Gary
Dale, no air filter problem. These engines run off of landfill gas. Therefore they get a lot of buildup of crap in the engine and they need to occasionally do some descaling.
Thanks for the video. Another lesson from a man who knows his stuff. Thanks mate 👍🇦🇺
Thank You Mark
"Like a Surgeon!" Well done. That's a pucker job for sure.
Thank you sir
Another opportunity to learn, I particularly enjoyed the carbide end mill in the chuck that was allowed to slip when it grabbed the bottom of the helicoil rather than riskibg it breaking and the subswquent headaches. Also the bonus fixture at the end of the video to ensure it would fit when you took it back to the machine for final fitting... Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks Paul, I appreciate that. Always nice to have you stop by the channel. Gary
What a great job! I was mentally with you for the whole time. I run a small machine shop and I do mostly work on medium size diesels like Cat C-15s.
And I am renowned for my patience. And so i have to save other people's f*ckups very often. Broken taps in main bearing blocks for example. Or (my favourite) snapped stainless or titanium bolts in magnesium alloy.
Hope you get paid well!
And thank you for those great videos. I enjoy every one!
Greetings from Germany!
Alvin, I really appreciate the kind words. Gary
All to many memories of extracting broken exhausts studs. The last one I did was seven of twelve on my 5.9 Cummins under the bed in the diesel pusher motor home. My ribs hurt for a week. Do or die I always say. I got them all out. Great attitude and patience Gary. If i took video of me doing this it would be one solid beeeèeeeep.
Thank you Randy. Back in the day when I worked on tractors all day long I removed a lot of broken exhaust bolts or studs. Most of those were done in the field by hand. Hope you’re doing well Randy, Gary
Another interesting repair. Very nice calm approach to the job, I can see any attempt at short cuts would turn into a Mr. crabby yelling match. Enjoyed, cheers!
Thank you sir, I appreciate that. Gary
That is a stubborn bunch of studs. Well done as usual thanks for the video.
Thank you Harold, I always appreciate you stopping by the channel. Hope you’re doing well. Gary
Your patience is inspirational Gary, Finesse is always a better approach than the hack and smash school of repair. The young tradesmen then some would call lazy or stupid are neither, they were just never taught patience. Another great video.
Chris, I learned many years ago a little patience upfront can save time in the long run. Appreciate you checking out the video. Gary
Enjoyed…as always top shelf video production and sharing extreme skill/craftsmanship/experience …..lots of tips shared
Thank You my friend
Definitely a job for EDM .
Absolutely wonderful Gary buddy, wonderfully done, I know from experience how easy you made this look
I appreciate that Ralfy
Nice work man. :) Always love to see someone who likes what he does. 👍
Thank you Tera
Definitely an exercise in patience. Your skills and knowledge has definitely saved a lot of us heartache. Thanks for another great video.
Thank You Jim
Hello Gary,
Enjoyable viewing... It always a please to watch and learn, thank you...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thank you Paul. Gary
Hello from San Antonio, TEXAS! EXCELLENT information that I learn from your videos. I like how just take your time as should be without breaking things.
Thanks JT
Very interesting video Gary, I like the welding jig, great video, keep'um coming.
Thank You. I appreciate that. Gary
Over the years I have found that using left hand tooling really makes a big deal with removing studs. Many times you can just bump the stud with the drill and it will thread out. Not all the time but a lot of time. Also, using a stick welding rods on top of the stud works miracles. But there are times you have to totally drill, tap to save the day. I personally use a vacuum cleaner instead of an air nostril. Keeps the workspace way cleaner. Keep chips out of the turbo. But I also do not work on super size turbos either. NIce work fella too. Peace vf
What a great display of patience
Joe, it does not come easy for me :)
Hope you have a great weekend. Gary
Nice to see the correct way to remove broken studs. Drilling is a great way if you have the proper mill capabilities to get to the centers accurately. Thumbs Up
Thank you Gary
Hi Gary I learnt a lot from watching that, particularly about carbide. Skilled job. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Gary
Nice job! We gathered up every heli-coil in our shop and put them in the scrap hopper! We now use thread inserts on every job we do that requires refurbishing a threaded hole. We also invested in straight flute carbide drills in various sizes they seem to last a lot longer than normal carbide drills. The holes we work on with stamping dies is usually 3/4"- 1" holes so thread inserts work better in our applications. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing.
Joe, appreciate you watching the video and leaving a comment. Helicoils definitely have their place.
There’s times you just don’t have the wall thickness for some of the other inserts. When you don’t have much wall thickness that’s when the Heli coil‘s work nice.
Thanks for showing me this technology.
Thanks for watching Kevin
That was a great video. Lots of tips in there. Thanks for sharing !
Thank you Andrew
Excellent work great video
Thank you Dan
Great video mate. Thanks 👍🇦🇺
Thanks Mark
Nice work Garry. From Oz.
Thanks Roger
Looks like you got centered on the stud holes very well!
I probably would have had to say a little prayer before starting that job.
Tom, saying a little prayer before these kind of jobs helps limit the amount of swear words when things go south. :) Thanks. Gary
That sure is a big Turbo.
Yes it is. Have a great weekend Ken. Gary
patience of a saint
Thanks Jeff
Great work
Thank You Guy
I always like it when a Old Iron video pops up it's fun to see how someone else goes about things!
Now they say you should never chuck an end mill in a drill chuck 😁 Good thing you, I and some others I know disregard that advise when it suits us! It's outside the box thinking such as this separates the repair man from the parts changers or what's the new word they use? Oh yeah... Technician!
I love it when a customer says I have some broken bolts can you get them out? My first question is have you tried to remove them yet? Outstanding technique especially on the flange fixture. Yes a welding table that you can weld to is a must. Excellent video as always, Cheers Man
Warren, When it comes to machining I think I have always thought outside the box. Hundred percent self-taught so I did not have anybody to tell me I was doing something wrong :)
Thanks for watching. Gary
@@OldIronMachineWorks exactly!
Love this channel
Thank you Rodney
👍 nice job.
Thank you Doug
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks Craig
So thats how it is done, thanks
Another hint as a see you fighting the helicoil out. Bend the upper end like an original break off end and unwind it with a a flat screwdriver.
Interesting. Those must be pretty valuable for all the time you spent on it.
A new engine is $1 million so you could imagine what a turbo cost.
Where is the draw bridge that is on the last part of the video ??? Really a cool looking bridge.
My home town. Rio Vista, CA
@@OldIronMachineWorks I just have one question for you fella. On average how much money do you spend on carbide tooling ?? Thanks
Another excellent and informative video. Removing broken studs and bolts has always fascinated me (ever since I broke off a 1/4" stud with Whitworth thread on my Jaguar XK120 engine almost 60 years ago). Spark erosion seems to be one of the most effective methods, but one does need the rather expensive machine. I smiled when I heard "Jenbacher" because I used to ski near Jenbach/Tyrolia in Austria. Are those marine engines? Since Jenbacher engines are generally gas engines I wouldn't think so. Thinking back on some of your other work I remember you had also worked on a number of Waukesha gas engines at a gas pumping station, so I guess the Jenbachers would also be from that environment. In any case, thanks for a great video.
XK120?? Be still my beating heart! I have an E-type today but always wanted a 120FHC!
@@jagboy69 Mine was a DHC. I completely rebuilt it, body off, engine, etc. Fantastic car.
@@BruceBoschek very cool, big money these days.
Pulling out those old helicoils might be another use for safety wire pliers, if they spin the right way.
subbed
Rob
NSW
Australia
When I first saw the thumbnail image. I thought. Big turbo charger or fan cooled hemroid cushion. I am looking at a postage size image.
I am taking as I have not gotten to the end of the video if you use bottoming helicoil taps to clean out the threads for new helicoil inserts. I wonder if helicoil offers versions for high temp installations.
Wayne, the Helicoils handle the heat as good as any thing else on these Turbos. The heats just hard on all of it overtime. Gary
4:15 wait so you use the ball endmill to kind of find center instead of a drill? because it'll reach the outside faster than it will go deep? I guess it wouldn't guide a larger drill either. Love little tricks I learn from your channel.
Bobby, I started out with a carbide centering bit. But I ended up knocking off the edge so I went to the carbide ball endmill. It really doesn’t take much to start a centerpoint for the Drill to follow. Even though The ball endmill has a round radius the Drill Bits still follows it very nicely for getting the drill bit started. But the final centering is done with the largest in Endmill and slightly moving the table to find center. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment. Gary
What egt? Maybe it needs aluminum studs so you can just melt them out in the future. I often encounter stainless in exhausts which is just plain aweful as it is always galled and won't come out.
Brian, they have tried several different style studs trying to get something that holds up better. But over time the heat generated from these turbos freeze everything up. Boring out the studs and pilling out what’s left is about the only option for these. I am sure you have done your share of removing broken bolts or studs over the years. I always appreciate you stopping by the channel. I don’t leave to many comments, but I never miss any of your videos. Gary
I have lots of left hand drills, I use on soft bolts, I you seen many sources for left hand carbide endmills?
Dale, I use my share of left-handed Drill Bits. But with that being said, if a left-handed drillbit takes the broken portion out it really wasn’t stuck. In a case like this where you have to use carbide you got to drill all the material out anyway so it really doesn’t make much difference left handed or right. But no I have not ever tried to get a left handed carbide endmill should I do not know if anybody makes one.
NICE
Thanks. Gary
So... when you're centering the original round-nose drill, is that by eye? Do you have any special technique, or is it just a "feel" thing you have to have?
All the aligning is just done by Eye.
03:10 and on. My question is that despite this being a turbo unit is there anyway that you could implore an anti-seize copper coating while threading in the studs whether it be a NEW turbo unit or not or even after such as in this case? Or does is get so HOT that eventually the copper coating just breaks down so much that the studs become one with the turbo housing?
JT, I have never found anything yet you could put on the studs that would make a difference later. There’s just too much heat developed. I appreciate you checking out the video. Gary
@@OldIronMachineWorks WOW?! That goes to show you the tremendous heat! Thank you all the way from San Antonio, TEXAS!
what are they driving with that size engine ?
These engines run on landfill gas that drive electric generators. And they sell the electricity that is generated.
23:00 $2000 washer!
THIS JOB IS ABOUT LIKE...BRAIN SURGERY...Y / N ?
~
Looks like they have an air filter problems.
Dale, no air filter problem. These engines run off of landfill gas. Therefore they get a lot of buildup of crap in the engine and they need to occasionally do some descaling.
Very nice craftsmanship! Experience and time have a unique relationship, enjoyed,thanks.
Thank you John