The new miniatures look great. Certainly better than the original metal sculpts. Two big bonuses: every mini comes with a hex base; and they're all to scale with each other!
I love that they scaled things up a little, especially the smaller tonnage mechs. Their was always just to big of a difference between small and large mechs that just loses some of the realism to me. Plus it has the great benefit of being able to have even better details on the models. Great job Camo Specs Online! I look forward to seeing these get painted up ^_^ Maybe something about fantastical, like Dazzle camouflage patterns. I always felt clan stuff should be crazy.
@@CamoSpecsOnline fantastic! Also because I should put it somewhere, thank you for basically singlehandedly re-energizing me to paint again. I had stopped for about 10 years, and I'm back into it and enjoying it!
The new minis are awesome. I've painted a few. Very few defects. No crazy assembly (are you listening IWM?), a few arms that are a little too close to the body, fixed by use of a heat gun. But best of all the details are very crips and the lines are deep enough that you don't have to worry too much about loosing/hiding them under the paint.
I'm deeply in love with the new sculpts. They are the Mechs I always wanted. I will not paint them anyway, because I suck at painting and I could not settle for a pattern for them... Maybe I just try painting doubles I have from salvage boxes
As long as you're enjoying the game and the hobby, don't let a paint job stand in the way of that. Have fun, try things out, and practice will always yield improvement.
More people need to see this game! Compared to warhammer, I like battletech gameplay way better, but they both have their pros and cons. However on a rainy day bored with friends or family I’d rather play battletech if I had a choice, it’s a lot easier to get the entire game down pat compared to warhammer. Like all games it can get deeper and deeper the farther you get into it.
I think this is the first video of yours I've seen despite binging on BT lore & tabletop gameplay the last few weeks. I love Tex & it's awesome he did the intro & outdo for you. I haven't painted minis since playing 40k in the early 2000s so your tips are very much appreciated.
It looks like a trivial job to cut the elementals free and rebase them for more variety (and rider conversions, as you noted). The small contact area is no issue, those things are huge compared to some of the 6mm regular human troops I've done in the past - and these are plastic to boot, so easier to work with.
Thanks for a high def, in focus video! Maybe felt a little unfair on the leg peg issue, or at least left unexplained that every foot needs to be based. I felt pegs are better than forcing every mech to flat footed, zero jog or run poses. Having hit 100 sculpts, we desperately need that variety. I'm hoping we will eventually test out not basing one foot, but for that we'll also need to strongly educate our players about hot water bending. Maybe we already had this conversation haha. But thanks again. Good to see manufacturing did so well on the mold engineering.
isnt it a lil weird that the mongrel is in there whenn it only showed up at the very end of the invasion? just asking since the timeline is the ne deciding factor in being able to field something or not as far as I know
Well "Clan Invasion" is a broad time window and just because you're at the end of it doesn't mean the mech wasn't available at some point during that time. Additionally a lot of the fluff in new mech designs mentions initial field testing and such so as long as the players agree to having something right on the cusp of being in the touman, it shouldn't be a problem lore or game wise.
@@CamoSpecsOnline yeha as far as I know the mongrel 'ever saw any battle until tukkayid, and since thats to my knowledge the event that ended the invasion... Would mean the mech would only fit on tukkayid battles in the invasion era and nowhere else, which is pretty restrictive (unless as you mentioned we go for field tests or other excuse as to why its showing up sooner... Or just decide to not care since its tech level fits the era anyway)
Just wondering with the legs of the timber wolf if you cut the post off from underneath the foot and dunk it into fairy warm water you should be able to reposition the leg? You could also have like a log or something under the foot to add some scenic while also supporting the model?
Thanks for the review! Btw, on the last few videos including this one, your mic might be a little too close to your mouth. It's picking up mouth noises when you talk, which for some listeners is like nails on a chalkboard. Might try backing it off a few inches. Another solution that might work to reduce it would be to use a pop shield.
Yeah unfortunately I'm aware of the problem because I'm stuck using a gaming headset with a bit of foam on the mic since my Blue Yeti is having some sort of issue with one stereo channel having a low hum no matter what I do in pre or post edit. Hopefully I'll get the issue fixed soon.
From the Ironwindmetals scrapyard are a pair of ATM-9 from the Gladiator E OP-034. The ERML barrels were just cut off the standard Timby arms, and the light TAG was some styrene and greenstuff putty.
My only issue with these minis is the mold lines. Some are in places that are hard to get to and if you're sanding, get ready to lose some details like I did. I've used a knife, as well, but even that presents issues.
You may be able to pry them off but I still recommend cutting because there's a post inserted into the feet that is superglued so unless the glue was weak, pulling them off may damage the mini.
Oof that's gonna be a tough one. My best suggestion would be to make the pattern larger than what would normally be done at the scale of aircraft. It will make your life much easier if you can comfortably paint the shaped sides without them all looking like dots. That being said, if you just want to have the dot pattern instead of the squashed hexagon look, then go for that but that's gonna be a lot of dabs.
I can't praise Cataylst Game Labs enough for the polished look and new mech sculpts. Quite a few mechs from previous Battletech releases were downright laughable.
You may be able to get the glue to snap off easier by freezing them although I haven't had much luck with that. The next solution is to soak the minis in simple green or castrol superclean for about a week to break down some of the glue (it works for 40k models) but waiting a week after getting new minis is pretty frustrating and some of the bonds are pretty tightly closed off so the glue might not be weakened much. You can't use acetone, furniture stripper, or other chemicals as they'll damage the plastic.
@@CamoSpecsOnline think an ultrasonic might speed that up? And I know with metal it hasn't taken as long for the glue, then again those were glued back in the 90s lol Time isn't an issue as I have plenty of BT minis to paint. Picked up two retaliation packs so I already have 38 IS minis plus 21 Clan mechs and 7 Elementals from wave 1. That doesn't include all the unpainted AS lance packs or the 30+ from other boxsets lol
@@darkstorminc I've used acetone for my metals (I use water based paints) and simple green for my plastics, but nothing really does a great job. Mostly at this point if I have a serious problem with plastics I use a heat gun.... For example on some of the bug mechs that came with the kick starter the arms were too close to the torso to paint properly, so I used the heat gun to repose them to something more workable.
@@CamoSpecsOnline im specifically asking if the can hack not attack. Like they did in the video games. My strategy would be to swarm with all elementals and hack them instead of destroying them
@@TheNorcoGuy85 I see, then no, that was a game action that doesn't follow the tabletop rules and lore. Mech Assault was more arcade-style than representative of the miniatures game. There are some battle armor that carry mech tasers that can potentially disable a mech but as far as hacking, that's not in the tabletop rules.
No one drills out the barrels to the weapons... I drill out ever place for a missile than add a head of a missile. I did all that in the 90s and early 2000s.. Believe me a ac5 is a small barrel compared to a ac20. The all LRM nova cat looks weird.. Even have a 7 ER LARGE Novcat in memory of MW 4 LOL
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
The new miniatures look great. Certainly better than the original metal sculpts. Two big bonuses: every mini comes with a hex base; and they're all to scale with each other!
Tex needs to read Audiobooks. I’d happily pay to listen to that.
Wow that classic Executioner model does have some lovely nostalgia vibes to it. A very classic '80s robot style aesthetic.
I love that they scaled things up a little, especially the smaller tonnage mechs. Their was always just to big of a difference between small and large mechs that just loses some of the realism to me. Plus it has the great benefit of being able to have even better details on the models.
Great job Camo Specs Online! I look forward to seeing these get painted up ^_^
Maybe something about fantastical, like Dazzle camouflage patterns. I always felt clan stuff should be crazy.
A bit bigger for better detail is okay with me. And you'll see a bit of camo similar to dazzle very soon.
@@CamoSpecsOnline fantastic!
Also because I should put it somewhere, thank you for basically singlehandedly re-energizing me to paint again. I had stopped for about 10 years, and I'm back into it and enjoying it!
@@wilsonw13 welcome back, and thanks for sharing that with us
The new minis are awesome. I've painted a few. Very few defects. No crazy assembly (are you listening IWM?), a few arms that are a little too close to the body, fixed by use of a heat gun. But best of all the details are very crips and the lines are deep enough that you don't have to worry too much about loosing/hiding them under the paint.
I'm deeply in love with the new sculpts. They are the Mechs I always wanted. I will not paint them anyway, because I suck at painting and I could not settle for a pattern for them...
Maybe I just try painting doubles I have from salvage boxes
As long as you're enjoying the game and the hobby, don't let a paint job stand in the way of that. Have fun, try things out, and practice will always yield improvement.
More people need to see this game! Compared to warhammer, I like battletech gameplay way better, but they both have their pros and cons. However on a rainy day bored with friends or family I’d rather play battletech if I had a choice, it’s a lot easier to get the entire game down pat compared to warhammer. Like all games it can get deeper and deeper the farther you get into it.
Overall, the new plastic 'Mechs are better than the older metal ones. Gotta get more paint before tackling the painting.
I think this is the first video of yours I've seen despite binging on BT lore & tabletop gameplay the last few weeks. I love Tex & it's awesome he did the intro & outdo for you. I haven't painted minis since playing 40k in the early 2000s so your tips are very much appreciated.
Wow, thanks!
It looks like a trivial job to cut the elementals free and rebase them for more variety (and rider conversions, as you noted). The small contact area is no issue, those things are huge compared to some of the 6mm regular human troops I've done in the past - and these are plastic to boot, so easier to work with.
Thanks for a high def, in focus video!
Maybe felt a little unfair on the leg peg issue, or at least left unexplained that every foot needs to be based. I felt pegs are better than forcing every mech to flat footed, zero jog or run poses. Having hit 100 sculpts, we desperately need that variety. I'm hoping we will eventually test out not basing one foot, but for that we'll also need to strongly educate our players about hot water bending. Maybe we already had this conversation haha.
But thanks again. Good to see manufacturing did so well on the mold engineering.
Shit, didnt realize tex did an intro for you, it's awesome
My Timberwolf was a bit squished. The LRM launchers were canted to the right and the left arm was touching the body.
isnt it a lil weird that the mongrel is in there whenn it only showed up at the very end of the invasion? just asking since the timeline is the ne deciding factor in being able to field something or not as far as I know
Well "Clan Invasion" is a broad time window and just because you're at the end of it doesn't mean the mech wasn't available at some point during that time. Additionally a lot of the fluff in new mech designs mentions initial field testing and such so as long as the players agree to having something right on the cusp of being in the touman, it shouldn't be a problem lore or game wise.
@@CamoSpecsOnline yeha as far as I know the mongrel 'ever saw any battle until tukkayid, and since thats to my knowledge the event that ended the invasion... Would mean the mech would only fit on tukkayid battles in the invasion era and nowhere else, which is pretty restrictive (unless as you mentioned we go for field tests or other excuse as to why its showing up sooner... Or just decide to not care since its tech level fits the era anyway)
5 seconds in. I recognize that voice!!!
He's kinda popular in Battletech circles...😀
Is that Tex in the intro?
Absolutely. He's a friend of the channel and helps out when we ask.
@@CamoSpecsOnline I knew I recognised those dulcet tones! I love his work.
Just wondering with the legs of the timber wolf if you cut the post off from underneath the foot and dunk it into fairy warm water you should be able to reposition the leg? You could also have like a log or something under the foot to add some scenic while also supporting the model?
Yes, all of that can be done.
Love these!
Thanks for the review!
Btw, on the last few videos including this one, your mic might be a little too close to your mouth. It's picking up mouth noises when you talk, which for some listeners is like nails on a chalkboard. Might try backing it off a few inches. Another solution that might work to reduce it would be to use a pop shield.
Yeah unfortunately I'm aware of the problem because I'm stuck using a gaming headset with a bit of foam on the mic since my Blue Yeti is having some sort of issue with one stereo channel having a low hum no matter what I do in pre or post edit. Hopefully I'll get the issue fixed soon.
thx guy's
love mechs, in this video even if you were showing only mad cat, i wiuld put a like.
hey, what parts did you use to reconfig the timberwolf. i am looking for missiles launchers like that for my adder
From the Ironwindmetals scrapyard are a pair of ATM-9 from the Gladiator E OP-034. The ERML barrels were just cut off the standard Timby arms, and the light TAG was some styrene and greenstuff putty.
@@CamoSpecsOnline thanks mate. i am trying to put a Puma E together^^
My only issue with these minis is the mold lines. Some are in places that are hard to get to and if you're sanding, get ready to lose some details like I did. I've used a knife, as well, but even that presents issues.
Can you just separate the miniatures from the base just by pulling them? Or is it better to cut them off below the feet ?
You may be able to pry them off but I still recommend cutting because there's a post inserted into the feet that is superglued so unless the glue was weak, pulling them off may damage the mini.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Ok Thanks
I want to do a German WW1 Lozenge camo for a clan unit using flat-topped mechs like the timberwolf. Do you have any hint for this type of camo?
Oof that's gonna be a tough one. My best suggestion would be to make the pattern larger than what would normally be done at the scale of aircraft. It will make your life much easier if you can comfortably paint the shaped sides without them all looking like dots. That being said, if you just want to have the dot pattern instead of the squashed hexagon look, then go for that but that's gonna be a lot of dabs.
I can't praise Cataylst Game Labs enough for the polished look and new mech sculpts. Quite a few mechs from previous Battletech releases were downright laughable.
They've really upped their quality of design by moving forward with the new artwork and plastics.
the intro sounds like Bitching Betty and Marvin had a child.
Bambalam!
What would good to use to dissolve or loosen the glue rather than cutting or trying to twist off glued pieces?
The problem is, I think, that whatever you use to dissolve the glue will likely also dissolve the plastic.
You may be able to get the glue to snap off easier by freezing them although I haven't had much luck with that. The next solution is to soak the minis in simple green or castrol superclean for about a week to break down some of the glue (it works for 40k models) but waiting a week after getting new minis is pretty frustrating and some of the bonds are pretty tightly closed off so the glue might not be weakened much. You can't use acetone, furniture stripper, or other chemicals as they'll damage the plastic.
@@CamoSpecsOnline think an ultrasonic might speed that up?
And I know with metal it hasn't taken as long for the glue, then again those were glued back in the 90s lol
Time isn't an issue as I have plenty of BT minis to paint. Picked up two retaliation packs so I already have 38 IS minis plus 21 Clan mechs and 7 Elementals from wave 1. That doesn't include all the unpainted AS lance packs or the 30+ from other boxsets lol
@@kamilpawlowski6576 pine sol worked for my metal and works on plastic for paint removal but I don't like working with it.
@@darkstorminc I've used acetone for my metals (I use water based paints) and simple green for my plastics, but nothing really does a great job. Mostly at this point if I have a serious problem with plastics I use a heat gun.... For example on some of the bug mechs that came with the kick starter the arms were too close to the torso to paint properly, so I used the heat gun to repose them to something more workable.
And I thought I was being smart to do a single shipment... Now I must wait.
Sorry to hear that. There will probably be some good retail prices after November if you just can't wait until wave 2.
🍷🤖🎩💥⚡💯
Can these elementals hack mechs to disable them?
Yes, there are rules for battle armor and infantry to attack mechs.
@@CamoSpecsOnline im specifically asking if the can hack not attack. Like they did in the video games. My strategy would be to swarm with all elementals and hack them instead of destroying them
@@TheNorcoGuy85 I see, then no, that was a game action that doesn't follow the tabletop rules and lore. Mech Assault was more arcade-style than representative of the miniatures game. There are some battle armor that carry mech tasers that can potentially disable a mech but as far as hacking, that's not in the tabletop rules.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Thabks for the info, ill have to form a new strategy once I learn to play
I melt down a few of those to add as destroyed mechs when was killed on our games.
I improved my metal figures....
It was never hard
STORMCROW'S HANDS ARE TOO BIG
Lucky for you they're made of plastic and can easily be cut off and replaced. 😁
No one drills out the barrels to the weapons...
I drill out ever place for a missile than add a head of a missile.
I did all that in the 90s and early 2000s..
Believe me a ac5 is a small barrel compared to a ac20.
The all LRM nova cat looks weird..
Even have a 7 ER LARGE Novcat in memory of MW 4 LOL