just subscribed and hope you guys are still around. Finally found a video that has the same exact ceiling as my 30' Pace Arrow. Ceiling and roof are shot. My fault for not staying on top of it. Anyway, early in the video you say they are "vacuum bonded". I understood that to mean that there isn't some sort of vacuum process on the production line when it was built, but the ceiling adhesion to the styrofoam insualtion and the plywood under the top roof material, mine is aluminum, combined, even after the coach left the production line, is considered vacuum bonded? Thanks!
Hello Jason, I was wondering when part 2 of the lasharo ceiling projet would come out, as i’m doing exactly “that” repair and have 4 weeks left before I must store my rv. Also; I contacted Stabond for the U29CT; and described the job. They answered by asking me if I meant E183 rv tile… Did i mis understand you? Best regards, Pete
Ok; after studying all the “available” glues pros & cons. I realized that the only weakness of the gorilla glue was the 1 mm gap maximum. So using a rooter I levelled the ceilling to the last layer of luan (about 1/24 of an inch) and successfully used Gorilla glue by controlling expension with the use of a bridge
Built under the 7x24 sheets and wedging styrofoam square to create positive pressure throughout the sheet preventing a gap larger then 1mm. Worked out fine; ceiling is now rock solid!
I didn't buy one this is a customer unit. and the answer is no do not buy one. almost all the parts are obsolete and require someone with extensive knowledge to remanufacture the parts or adapt more readily available parts to work. and if you cant do it yourself it is costly. they are a cool vintage unit but come at a huge cost.
@@thesetwohands6982 Thanks. I looked at one today with just 7838 miles on it and if you added gas to the carburator the engine turned over and just purred like a kitten! Everything else was in perfect but faded condition. But damn! I had to wonder if it was just the fuel filter and if I could find one. I decided to skip it. As much as I live the mini-winnies!
Thank you for this video it helps me on my project. Where can I find ;the “stay bond “ glue your referenced in ;the ;video. I haven’t had any luck finding it anywhere. Thank lyou
well its kinda hard to come by. here is the company site: Stabond Corporation 1722 W. 139th Street Gardena, CA 90249 310-380-6168 contact@stabond.com I get it from Arctic Fox in La Grande Oregon. with that said they wont ship it to me because they say they cant ship it. I am assuming they don't have the license to ship hazardous materials. thats my guess. you should try an Arctic Fox dealer and see if they can get it from the factory?? I have been a service dealer for them for 20+ years and they won't ship to me. this glue is only needed if you are gluing to Styrofoam if you are just gluing wood to wood you can use sika 252 adhesive which works fantastic. do not use liquid nails it dries hard and won't take the flexing of the rv that it will have. if you have any other questions let me know. thank you.
@@thesetwohands6982 I am guessing its the STABOND E-183 "is a general-purpose adhesive suitable for bonding wood, eps board, cork, metal, fiberglass and many other substrates. The adhesive is particularly useful in bonding expanded polystyrene and Styrofoam to themselves and to other surfaces because the special blend of solvents and resins will not attack the substrates when sprayed. Adhesive applied to expanded polystyrene surfaces must be completely dry before assembly because any residual solvent trapped in the glue line will cause solvent attack on aging." ?
I go through Arctic Fox in La Grande Oregon but I have been a service dealer for almost 20 years and have worked with them extensively to repair RV's the best way is to go to a dealer and find a new rv that uses the same panel or real close to the same panel you are looking for and jot down the make, model and year and order from that manufacturer. Jayco, keystone, outdoors, etc.. stay away form Winnebago they are jerks when it comes to helping the small guy. and if your gluing up your panel to a vacuum bonded roof make sure you use the correct glue not all glues work on Styrofoam.
Thank you so much for the answer. I had no clue where to start. You are truly a man with integreity, I never thought I would get an answer. I will looking for your videos. Thank you again.
As soon as I get the panels they are on their way. I will show you. What ever you do don't use nails on a project like this one if you have a combination of wood studs and fiberglass insulation you can use nails but use them in conjunction with glue. The panels should be here next week and I'll film the install. If you have any questions let me know and I can help.
I bought an old class a RV, with a lot of water damage and proceeded to rip out all the ceiling panels. Definitely doesn't have the rigidity it had before. I'd be scared to get up on roof at this point. Will it regain enough strength, after replacing the panels, and be safe to walk on the roof again? Or how do I go about making it more structurally sound?
You will need to determine if its a vacuum bonded ceiling/roof. if there was Styrofoam between the studs in the ceiling it is a vacuum bonded roof and that can be hard to fix if at all. First check the roof panels because they are 1/4 inch thick luan panels as well and if they are delaminated then that is the end of most people fixing it because it takes a large shop and the ability to remove the entire roof in one piece and regluing both roof and ceiling panels with the correct glue. I have done it and its a lot of work that wont really add value to your motorhome. this is if it is a vacuum bonded roof. if its not and still squishy you can add bracing in the ceiling if they are wood rafters but the most important thing is making sure every stud is glued to the ceiling panel with the proper adhesive. wood frame ceiling (sika 252) comes in a caulking tube if Styrofoam (its called honey glue because it looks like honey and expands like gorilla glue but doesn't melt the Styrofoam.) I will be posting a video next week on the replacement of these panels and will get you the exact name and and part number of glue for that application. and these are the only two glues you will ever need for structural gluing in sidewalls, ceilings, floors. if you have any other questions just let me know. I have been a RV service dealer since 1997. I quit my business to start building custom overland vehicles. if you need a reference call Arctic Fox and ask for anyone in the service dept. thanks. sorry for long reply there are just certain details you cant skip to get it right. here is the link to my company Facebook with some pics of removing the ceiling/roof. facebook.com/montanoverland13/photos/?ref=page_internal
These manufacture companies need to start making these things waterproof. they make everything else that way lol. It's like you might as well waterproof a brand new one off the lot to prevent it from getting to this stage..
just subscribed and hope you guys are still around. Finally found a video that has the same exact ceiling as my 30' Pace Arrow. Ceiling and roof are shot. My fault for not staying on top of it. Anyway, early in the video you say they are "vacuum bonded". I understood that to mean that there isn't some sort of vacuum process on the production line when it was built, but the ceiling adhesion to the styrofoam insualtion and the plywood under the top roof material, mine is aluminum, combined, even after the coach left the production line, is considered vacuum bonded?
Thanks!
Home weep hole has a similar sheet.
Hello Jason,
I was wondering when part 2 of the lasharo ceiling projet would come out, as i’m doing exactly “that” repair and have 4 weeks left before I must store my rv.
Also; I contacted Stabond for the U29CT; and described the job.
They answered by asking me if I meant E183 rv tile…
Did i mis understand you?
Best regards,
Pete
I am guessing you could also use SikaFlex EBT+ to glue the panels to the ceiling
Ok; after studying all the “available” glues pros & cons.
I realized that the only weakness of the gorilla glue was the 1 mm gap maximum. So using a rooter I levelled the ceilling to the last layer of luan (about 1/24 of an inch) and successfully used Gorilla glue by controlling expension with the use of a bridge
Built under the 7x24 sheets and wedging styrofoam square to create positive pressure throughout the sheet preventing a gap larger then 1mm.
Worked out fine; ceiling is now rock solid!
So guy. Tell me.
Would you buy the LaSharo again?
I didn't buy one this is a customer unit. and the answer is no do not buy one. almost all the parts are obsolete and require someone with extensive knowledge to remanufacture the parts or adapt more readily available parts to work. and if you cant do it yourself it is costly. they are a cool vintage unit but come at a huge cost.
@@thesetwohands6982
Thanks. I looked at one today with just 7838 miles on it and if you added gas to the carburator the engine turned over and just purred like a kitten!
Everything else was in perfect but faded condition.
But damn! I had to wonder if it was just the fuel filter and if I could find one.
I decided to skip it. As much as I live the mini-winnies!
Hey, thanks! 🙏
Thank you for this video it helps me on my project. Where can I find ;the “stay bond “ glue your referenced in ;the ;video. I haven’t had any luck finding it anywhere. Thank lyou
well its kinda hard to come by. here is the company site: Stabond Corporation
1722 W. 139th Street
Gardena, CA 90249
310-380-6168
contact@stabond.com
I get it from Arctic Fox in La Grande Oregon. with that said they wont ship it to me because they say they cant ship it. I am assuming they don't have the license to ship hazardous materials. thats my guess. you should try an Arctic Fox dealer and see if they can get it from the factory?? I have been a service dealer for them for 20+ years and they won't ship to me. this glue is only needed if you are gluing to Styrofoam if you are just gluing wood to wood you can use sika 252 adhesive which works fantastic. do not use liquid nails it dries hard and won't take the flexing of the rv that it will have. if you have any other questions let me know. thank you.
@@thesetwohands6982 I am guessing its the STABOND E-183
"is a general-purpose adhesive suitable for bonding wood, eps board, cork, metal, fiberglass and many other substrates. The adhesive is particularly useful in bonding expanded polystyrene and Styrofoam to themselves and to other surfaces because the special blend of solvents and resins will not attack the substrates when sprayed. Adhesive applied to expanded polystyrene surfaces must be completely dry before assembly because any residual solvent trapped in the glue line will cause solvent attack on aging." ?
I have the same issue, where would I find the replacement panels? I only need one.
I go through Arctic Fox in La Grande Oregon but I have been a service dealer for almost 20 years and have worked with them extensively to repair RV's the best way is to go to a dealer and find a new rv that uses the same panel or real close to the same panel you are looking for and jot down the make, model and year and order from that manufacturer. Jayco, keystone, outdoors, etc.. stay away form Winnebago they are jerks when it comes to helping the small guy. and if your gluing up your panel to a vacuum bonded roof make sure you use the correct glue not all glues work on Styrofoam.
Thank you so much for the answer. I had no clue where to start. You are truly a man with integreity, I never thought I would get an answer. I will looking for your videos. Thank you again.
What size nails should you use to put up celing
As soon as I get the panels they are on their way. I will show you. What ever you do don't use nails on a project like this one if you have a combination of wood studs and fiberglass insulation you can use nails but use them in conjunction with glue. The panels should be here next week and I'll film the install. If you have any questions let me know and I can help.
Didn't help one bit. You only showed the damage, Not how to fix it.
yup your right I have been having family trouble and am moving my shop to a complete different state and I apologize.
I bought an old class a RV, with a lot of water damage and proceeded to rip out all the ceiling panels. Definitely doesn't have the rigidity it had before. I'd be scared to get up on roof at this point. Will it regain enough strength, after replacing the panels, and be safe to walk on the roof again? Or how do I go about making it more structurally sound?
You will need to determine if its a vacuum bonded ceiling/roof. if there was Styrofoam between the studs in the ceiling it is a vacuum bonded roof and that can be hard to fix if at all. First check the roof panels because they are 1/4 inch thick luan panels as well and if they are delaminated then that is the end of most people fixing it because it takes a large shop and the ability to remove the entire roof in one piece and regluing both roof and ceiling panels with the correct glue. I have done it and its a lot of work that wont really add value to your motorhome. this is if it is a vacuum bonded roof. if its not and still squishy you can add bracing in the ceiling if they are wood rafters but the most important thing is making sure every stud is glued to the ceiling panel with the proper adhesive. wood frame ceiling (sika 252) comes in a caulking tube if Styrofoam (its called honey glue because it looks like honey and expands like gorilla glue but doesn't melt the Styrofoam.) I will be posting a video next week on the replacement of these panels and will get you the exact name and and part number of glue for that application. and these are the only two glues you will ever need for structural gluing in sidewalls, ceilings, floors. if you have any other questions just let me know. I have been a RV service dealer since 1997. I quit my business to start building custom overland vehicles. if you need a reference call Arctic Fox and ask for anyone in the service dept. thanks. sorry for long reply there are just certain details you cant skip to get it right.
here is the link to my company Facebook with some pics of removing the ceiling/roof.
facebook.com/montanoverland13/photos/?ref=page_internal
Bro where do you go I neee the next video lol
These manufacture companies need to start making these things waterproof. they make everything else that way lol. It's like you might as well waterproof a brand new one off the lot to prevent it from getting to this stage..
This didn’t help I thought you were going to repair. Lol😅
We had one,piece of junk
There are lessons to be learned in the video as well as in his replies in the comment section
Looking forward to restoring our old camper from 1969