I know I am hopelessly old school, but it's my fundamental understanding that electric choke 12v power should never come directly from the alternator, battery or distributor. Switched 12v power is all over. Just find one of those. I know everybody does it, but the ground is not good at the carburetor either. It's an aluminum carburetor and maybe even an aluminum intake manifold. That would be weak ground at best. There is probably a great frame ground on the firewall, or find something steel on the engine block. Most never know how well an electric choke really works because they wire them wrongly . . . well like you suggest.
@@JayHutchG thanks for your input and I understand what you are saying in theory, but I’ve never had a problem with it, I have wired several up this way when they don’t already have a wire designated for an electric choke and they’ve all worked fine. There are several ways one can wire one in and this is just one and the way I like best personally. Thanks for the advice, it is appreciated. Thanks for watching.
Great how to video as i have to install a new auto/electric choke on an older -"Rebuilt" Holley 600 Carb on a stock 1972 Ford Mustang 302.-Thanks very much.-Joe K in Delaware.-
i am putting an original dealer purchased tri power set up on my wife's 67 mustang convertible and after viewing this video I'll be putting an electric choke on it. Thank you.
@@royallbergman9035 very nice and very cool car and carb option, that’s something you don’t see much of anymore. Glad you liked the video and was helpful, good luck on your install and thanks for watching.
I like the idea of using the stator terminal. That way the choke only has power when the engine is running. Otherwise the choke will open too soon, as it starts warming the choke stat the second you turn the ignition on. And if it takes a minute longer to start the engine, the will come open too soon.
Yeah true, there’s several ways to hook up an electric choke, really no right or wrong way to a point. Where I live it doesn’t get super cold usually and doesn’t last that long when it does so for me the way I have it hooked up works well for me but if I lived up north or anywhere it got really cold then I’d probably need to find another way to run it. Thanks for the comment though and chiming in. Thanks for watching!
Use a standard brand SW-144 using 1/4 npt or SW-135 using 1/8npt. An 18 gauge fusible link to the starter relay positive. 14 gauge wire to one terminal on these switches. The other terminal goes to the holley choke thermostat.. Please use fully insulated female .250 connectors.
Yeah I’m probably gonna reroute the wiring later on that and do something better, that was a get it done for now kind of thing, though it does work, and seems to work pretty well. Thanks for the advice and tips, I really appreciate it. Also thanks for commenting and for watching.
@@danbowman1637 each manufacturer had their ways of doing it but I’ve wired to the alternator several times and never had a problem with it. In fact ford used to have their chokes wired in to the alternator but it just comes down to preference, to each their own. Thanks for watching.
im tryin to figure out how to hook up an electic choke on my folks 65 f500 bucket truck that has a industrial 240 ab a carter carb, muscle car soltuion says not to put it to the alternator but he wouldnt say why, whats the best way to go?
@@Brimstone667 very cool, well it really comes down to preference, some say not to do it that way and some do, I can tell you from my experience I’ve done many this way and never once had an issue with it. In fact ford wired them to the alternator in the early days on some. So you can wire it to the alternator on the stator terminal and you’ll be just fine and it’ll work as intended. Good luck on your install and thanks for watching.
@@locotrucker46 only one wire goes to alternator, the positive wire. The short black wire is a ground and connects to the choke housing. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Hey man, trying to hook the choke wire to my stator just like in the video but the stator already has a wire connected to the solenoid switch. Bought the car like that so i have no idea why its like that. Would it be problematic to connect the choke wire on the stator post as well??
No I don’t believe so, the stator puts out 12v so not sure why it would be hooked to the solenoid but you should be fine either way hooking up there. Just make sure it is in fact the stator you’re hooking it too and you’ll be good. Hope his helps. Thanks for watching.
@@connerdougherty3749 no problem bud, I try to respond to everyone and as quickly as possible. Good luck, hope all goes well with the install. Thanks for watching.
Well that’s kind of a loaded question, because it really depends on how you plan on using the car, how the engine is built, what you’re wanting out of it. If you’re looking for a street cruiser with some mild hot rodding then I’d go like I did with the 600 or 650 CFM 4 barrel, it’s still streetable and will perform great, anything bigger and you’re dumping raw gas out the tailpipe. However if you’re building a really hot engine with big cam and heads amd headers and really building something for more like drag racing then you’ll need like a 750. If it’s more of a stock application and you just want to cruise around, then maybe a Holley 2 barrel like a 500 CFM like I installed on my 76 ford truck might be more suitable for you, like I said it just really all depends. Hope this helps give you an idea on which direction to go in. Thanks for watching.
Then you probably have the choke set too tight or it’s not functioning properly. Perhaps it’s not getting power to it to activate it. I’d check to see if you are getting power to it and check where it’s set at. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@benjamincampos8043 not exactly sure what you’re asking there bud, but if you’re asking what would cause it not to have power, well it could be disconnected, have a short in the wire, depending on how you decide to hook yours up then maybe the fuse is blown, there are several factors and senecios. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Lol, didn’t have any heat shrink the right size otherwise I would have, but fear not, tape works equally well in that situation. No problem, I’m glad I could help and provide you with some info. Thanks for watching.
Hi, great video! Hopefully, you can help me out with an electric choke installation. My 1957 T bird has a manual choke on it now. I would like to change it over to an electric choke. How would I go about locating a choke assembly for it that would bolt on to the carb that I have now? The carb is a Holley 2 barrel model 2300. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Thank you very much, I’m glad you liked the video and was helpful. Very nice car, you don’t see those old thunderbirds anymore, they’re awesome, 57 was always my favorite thunderbird. You should be able to just buy the choke assembly on like summit racing or another aftermarket website like that and then just unbolt your manual choke assembly and bolt in the electric choke housing and hook up the linkages and then you can run the wire like I did on mike and you should be on your way. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions feel free to ask I’ll help if I can. Thanks for watching.
Most factory carburetors have the ground built in, so all you need is the power wire. I’d hook it to the stator on the alternator. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
If you mean hooking the alternator to the power side of the choke then yes. I’d hook the power side of the choke to the stator post on the alternator so then power is only going to the choke when the engine is running so it doesn’t open too fast.
I know I am hopelessly old school, but it's my fundamental understanding that electric choke 12v power should never come directly from the alternator, battery or distributor. Switched 12v power is all over. Just find one of those. I know everybody does it, but the ground is not good at the carburetor either. It's an aluminum carburetor and maybe even an aluminum intake manifold. That would be weak ground at best. There is probably a great frame ground on the firewall, or find something steel on the engine block. Most never know how well an electric choke really works because they wire them wrongly . . . well like you suggest.
@@JayHutchG thanks for your input and I understand what you are saying in theory, but I’ve never had a problem with it, I have wired several up this way when they don’t already have a wire designated for an electric choke and they’ve all worked fine. There are several ways one can wire one in and this is just one and the way I like best personally. Thanks for the advice, it is appreciated.
Thanks for watching.
Great how to video as i have to install a new auto/electric choke on an older -"Rebuilt" Holley 600 Carb on a stock 1972 Ford Mustang 302.-Thanks very much.-Joe K in Delaware.-
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
i am putting an original dealer purchased tri power set up on my wife's 67 mustang convertible and after viewing this video I'll be putting an electric choke on it. Thank you.
@@royallbergman9035 very nice and very cool car and carb option, that’s something you don’t see much of anymore. Glad you liked the video and was helpful, good luck on your install and thanks for watching.
Good explanation, good video.
Thank you, much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed he video.
Thanks for watching.
I like the idea of using the stator terminal. That way the choke only has power when the engine is running. Otherwise the choke will open too soon, as it starts warming the choke stat the second you turn the ignition on. And if it takes a minute longer to start the engine, the will come open too soon.
Yeah true, there’s several ways to hook up an electric choke, really no right or wrong way to a point. Where I live it doesn’t get super cold usually and doesn’t last that long when it does so for me the way I have it hooked up works well for me but if I lived up north or anywhere it got really cold then I’d probably need to find another way to run it. Thanks for the comment though and chiming in.
Thanks for watching!
Good video, thanks
@@mikebesoyan3242 thanks, and you’re welcome, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Use a standard brand SW-144 using 1/4 npt or SW-135 using 1/8npt. An 18 gauge fusible link to the starter relay positive. 14 gauge wire to one terminal on these switches. The other terminal goes to the holley choke thermostat..
Please use fully insulated female .250 connectors.
Yeah I’m probably gonna reroute the wiring later on that and do something better, that was a get it done for now kind of thing, though it does work, and seems to work pretty well. Thanks for the advice and tips, I really appreciate it. Also thanks for commenting and for watching.
Before I could mention, yes Ford did it that way, thanks.
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Good Video Bud
Thank you! Much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for watching.
Edelbrock says NEVER wire it to the alternator, only to the ignition key.
@@danbowman1637 each manufacturer had their ways of doing it but I’ve wired to the alternator several times and never had a problem with it. In fact ford used to have their chokes wired in to the alternator but it just comes down to preference, to each their own.
Thanks for watching.
65 mustang black blower motor wire is hot when ignition is on
Really? That’s cool, didn’t know that, learned something new, thanks bud. Thanks for watching.
im tryin to figure out how to hook up an electic choke on my folks 65 f500 bucket truck that has a industrial 240 ab a carter carb, muscle car soltuion says not to put it to the alternator but he wouldnt say why, whats the best way to go?
@@Brimstone667 very cool, well it really comes down to preference, some say not to do it that way and some do, I can tell you from my experience I’ve done many this way and never once had an issue with it. In fact ford wired them to the alternator in the early days on some. So you can wire it to the alternator on the stator terminal and you’ll be just fine and it’ll work as intended. Good luck on your install and thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 thank you so much, gonna try it that way
I have 2 holly 450 carbs with electric chokes what do you recommend,thanks
I'm confused. Do both of the wires from the choke connect to the alternator or just one and if so, which one?
@@locotrucker46 only one wire goes to alternator, the positive wire. The short black wire is a ground and connects to the choke housing. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Hey man, trying to hook the choke wire to my stator just like in the video but the stator already has a wire connected to the solenoid switch. Bought the car like that so i have no idea why its like that. Would it be problematic to connect the choke wire on the stator post as well??
No I don’t believe so, the stator puts out 12v so not sure why it would be hooked to the solenoid but you should be fine either way hooking up there. Just make sure it is in fact the stator you’re hooking it too and you’ll be good. Hope his helps.
Thanks for watching.
@FastFords289 pretty positive. Got the 289 with the same alternator setup you got. We will see. Thanks for the quick response!
@@connerdougherty3749 no problem bud, I try to respond to everyone and as quickly as possible. Good luck, hope all goes well with the install.
Thanks for watching.
What kind of carb would u use on a 1969 351 Windsor
Well that’s kind of a loaded question, because it really depends on how you plan on using the car, how the engine is built, what you’re wanting out of it. If you’re looking for a street cruiser with some mild hot rodding then I’d go like I did with the 600 or 650 CFM 4 barrel, it’s still streetable and will perform great, anything bigger and you’re dumping raw gas out the tailpipe. However if you’re building a really hot engine with big cam and heads amd headers and really building something for more like drag racing then you’ll need like a 750. If it’s more of a stock application and you just want to cruise around, then maybe a Holley 2 barrel like a 500 CFM like I installed on my 76 ford truck might be more suitable for you, like I said it just really all depends. Hope this helps give you an idea on which direction to go in.
Thanks for watching.
the red cam plastic piece on my holley has to be manually pushed down..
Then you probably have the choke set too tight or it’s not functioning properly. Perhaps it’s not getting power to it to activate it. I’d check to see if you are getting power to it and check where it’s set at. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
If I press the gas pedal it drops
@@ari1234. that’s right, that’s how it’s supposed to work, as it warms up you press the pedal and the choke kicks off.
@@FastFords289 reall..thanks
@@ari1234. no problem, glad to help when I can. Thanks for watching.
What it cause if the power. It's not connected?
@@benjamincampos8043 not exactly sure what you’re asking there bud, but if you’re asking what would cause it not to have power, well it could be disconnected, have a short in the wire, depending on how you decide to hook yours up then maybe the fuse is blown, there are several factors and senecios. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
not the tape the heat guns right thereeeee thank u I need the info.
Lol, didn’t have any heat shrink the right size otherwise I would have, but fear not, tape works equally well in that situation. No problem, I’m glad I could help and provide you with some info.
Thanks for watching.
Hi, great video! Hopefully, you can help me out with an electric choke installation. My 1957 T bird has a manual choke on it now. I would like to change it over to an electric choke. How would I go about locating a choke assembly for it that would bolt on to the carb that I have now? The carb is a Holley 2 barrel model 2300. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Thank you very much, I’m glad you liked the video and was helpful. Very nice car, you don’t see those old thunderbirds anymore, they’re awesome, 57 was always my favorite thunderbird. You should be able to just buy the choke assembly on like summit racing or another aftermarket website like that and then just unbolt your manual choke assembly and bolt in the electric choke housing and hook up the linkages and then you can run the wire like I did on mike and you should be on your way.
Hope this helps, if you have any other questions feel free to ask I’ll help if I can.
Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 Thanks for your expertise.
@@edbreeding7862 no problem, you’re very welcome. Good luck, hope it works for you.
How would I hook up the wiring on a Quadrajet it only has a connection for just power
Most factory carburetors have the ground built in, so all you need is the power wire. I’d hook it to the stator on the alternator.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching.
Can I connect on the alternator where the red power source is also connected too ???
If you mean hooking the alternator to the power side of the choke then yes. I’d hook the power side of the choke to the stator post on the alternator so then power is only going to the choke when the engine is running so it doesn’t open too fast.
Ohhhh a electric tape user
Instant 👎
I know, right. So irritating.