Thanks for the info about that choke regulator device. Good to know. I would recommend installing a a 12 volt relay between the key-on 12 volt source and the + terminal on the new electric choke. Abundance of safety I would also install an inline fuse between your 12V power supply and the relay. My 2 Cents.
On a Ford you can pick up 6 volts from the alternator. Original electric choke ford applications ran a bimetallic system with hot air. The hot air heated up the element under the choke cap until it reached a preset temperature and then the electric took over opening it faster. Mind you that was on mostly 80’s model applications. All that said if you use the stator wire off the alternator it gives you 6 volts opening the choke at a lower rate. Works very well.
Yep, what I will be doing with my 82 F150. Will use the 12v summit carb choke coil to the OEM 6v stator wire. I know people on the Ford Truck forums they reuse the OEM coil cap with no problems.
Neat I opted to wire key on power through an oil pressure switch so the choke only works when the engine is running. Worked really well for me. Doesn't solve the heating issue but I never had that problem but it worked well for those times you just want to sit in your car and listen to the radio on a cool summer night and still be able to start the car in ten minutes
Thanks boys! My truck started hard till it warmed up, due to no heat choke (tubes rotted) ordered this from Mike's as soon as I saw this.. hope it helps! Keep up the great work! Very inspiring for my resto mod '83 f150.. also yes I ordered a npd catalog cause of you guys!
Minor point, but the vacuum signal for the hot air choke system actually comes from the lower port. The upper port is just a source for filtered air. I'll also second the earlier comment that running the choke hot wire (regular electric choke, not a Mike's kit) from the alternator "STA" terminal works great. Love the show!
Thanks for this. I was planning to do this on the Galaxie because I broke the heat tube off at the manifold by mistake. You cant find those tubes anywhere and now I wont have to!
i was just about to ask where the red wire from the choke goes when you began saying where it goes.i've always used manual in the past.so,thanks very much.
I have a Summit 600 carb on my 66 302 Mustang restomod. The carburetor works flawlessly under almost all conditions. Certainly better than any Holley I have had over the past 40+ years. The only minor drawback is that the electric choke works TOO well. When I go into Walmart and come out 10 minutes later the fast idle has reset itself so you can't hear my cam for the first 30 seconds of operation.
So, on a 289 with a manual choke......there are all sorts of heat sources going to the choke to help it operate better. If I took the factory air cleaner off, and put a upgraded (chrome) air cleaner on it, that would eliminate the heat supply. How would this effect the operation of the manual choke? Would I have to go electric at this point? I'd rather not.
I have a dual quad setup on my 67 Mustang 390 on Startup it runs off of the back carburetor but it has a electric choke on the front carburetor is that wrong since the car is running and warming up on the back carburetor help please
You said the ( SMALL BLACK BOX) is a temperature sensor / timer. Does this shut off the current to the choke at a preset temp ? if so does the choke then close? if not what does it actually do?
why even have a choke if your bypassing the whole reason the choke suppose to function to the engines heat. may as well put a manual pull chock it would function better. i think the whole choke shit and all the bs that goes along with it,kickbacks,lockouts,high idle x3, unloaders,valve angles,rod ajustments, ect ect. just warm your fkn car up for a couple gd minutes and take ALL that bs off . jezz mrymthr ofgd
Thanks for the info about that choke regulator device. Good to know. I would recommend installing a a 12 volt relay between the key-on 12 volt source and the + terminal on the new electric choke. Abundance of safety I would also install an inline fuse between your 12V power supply and the relay. My 2 Cents.
You should do a video on how to adjust the electric choke and high idle cam on an edelbrock carburetor
On a Ford you can pick up 6 volts from the alternator. Original electric choke ford applications ran a bimetallic system with hot air. The hot air heated up the element under the choke cap until it reached a preset temperature and then the electric took over opening it faster. Mind you that was on mostly 80’s model applications. All that said if you use the stator wire off the alternator it gives you 6 volts opening the choke at a lower rate. Works very well.
Yep, what I will be doing with my 82 F150. Will use the 12v summit carb choke coil to the OEM 6v stator wire.
I know people on the Ford Truck forums they reuse the OEM coil cap with no problems.
Neat I opted to wire key on power through an oil pressure switch so the choke only works when the engine is running. Worked really well for me. Doesn't solve the heating issue but I never had that problem but it worked well for those times you just want to sit in your car and listen to the radio on a cool summer night and still be able to start the car in ten minutes
I ordered the electric choke kit after watching your video. Mike's was right on top of shipping and I had the pump kit within 3 days.
Have you got a link to his site please?
Great video Jeff! I also really like the way you do things right, hiding wires etc., getting that clean uncluttered look. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks boys! My truck started hard till it warmed up, due to no heat choke (tubes rotted) ordered this from Mike's as soon as I saw this.. hope it helps! Keep up the great work! Very inspiring for my resto mod '83 f150.. also yes I ordered a npd catalog cause of you guys!
Awesome. We'll stay at it.
I like that setup....Jeff, you need an electricians split point screwdriver.
Thanks Jeff, Great video- Another improve for my 4100 startup.
Thanks!
Minor point, but the vacuum signal for the hot air choke system actually comes from the lower port. The upper port is just a source for filtered air. I'll also second the earlier comment that running the choke hot wire (regular electric choke, not a Mike's kit) from the alternator "STA" terminal works great. Love the show!
Yeah, I have a ton to keep up with when shooting these and most of that episode I shot by myself. So I missed that.
Thanks for this. I was planning to do this on the Galaxie because I broke the heat tube off at the manifold by mistake. You cant find those tubes anywhere and now I wont have to!
Glad I could help
Good job on the video... 👍
Hope the trip is for down time enjoyment....!
See Ya, when you get back
i was just about to ask where the red wire from the choke goes when you began saying where it goes.i've always used manual in the past.so,thanks very much.
I have a Summit 600 carb on my 66 302 Mustang restomod. The carburetor works flawlessly under almost all conditions. Certainly better than any Holley I have had over the past 40+ years. The only minor drawback is that the electric choke works TOO well. When I go into Walmart and come out 10 minutes later the fast idle has reset itself so you can't hear my cam for the first 30 seconds of operation.
So, on a 289 with a manual choke......there are all sorts of heat sources going to the choke to help it operate better. If I took the factory air cleaner off, and put a upgraded (chrome) air cleaner on it, that would eliminate the heat supply. How would this effect the operation of the manual choke? Would I have to go electric at this point? I'd rather not.
Aha. Really good idea. A needed product.
The screwdriver is on the cowl
Never connected the temp sensor to the choke. I assume it goes to the ground side.
I have a dual quad setup on my 67 Mustang 390 on Startup it runs off of the back carburetor but it has a electric choke on the front carburetor is that wrong since the car is running and warming up on the back carburetor help please
Awesome video! Any chance you can talk about the fast idle cam used for "stepped down" idle. How it works, set up, etc.
There are a few good videos about how to set hat up already on the net. But I might just have to do one.
@@AutoRestoMod +1 For a vid. Even if there's one out there, you guys would make it enjoyable to watch
I would also love to know if I can block off the factory vacuum hoses off the top of the air cleaner. (Not winter driving)
You said the ( SMALL BLACK BOX) is a temperature sensor / timer. Does this shut off the current to the choke at a preset temp ? if so does the choke then close? if not what does it actually do?
The box keeps the choke open till the engine reaches operating temp.
I tried to order a choke like this from mikes carburetors a while back.
they never answered my e-mail and did not even answer the phone.
How long ago? We've never had a bad experience with Mikes.
Sad if the choke cover has slotted screws. I thought those went out with the dinosaur.
Well, the carburetor is off of a 1965 Galaxie so...
why even have a choke if your bypassing the whole reason the choke suppose to function to the engines heat. may as well put a manual pull chock it would function better. i think the whole choke shit and all the bs that goes along with it,kickbacks,lockouts,high idle x3, unloaders,valve angles,rod ajustments, ect ect. just warm your fkn car up for a couple gd minutes and take ALL that bs off . jezz mrymthr ofgd
He said ford all i heard was dead dead dead lol.
You actually mispronounced found on road dead