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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2020
- I smash my Stihl 362 chainsaw and have to replace the bar, I buy a new Stihl Rollomatic lightweight bar, test and review it doing tree work in the tree and on the ground. Stihl Rollomatic Light. Tree climbing and felling. I answer the question are light bars worth it.
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*Coming up on having had this saw for a year....am a casual user and bought it to cut up sections for bowl blanks. Easy to start, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend even after storage for a couple of months. Simple chain tension adjustment. Just cut up some 20" Osage Orange, including ripping bolts in half (at an angle). Like butter!*
Good to hear
Just a tip, in the past when I’ve gotten a saw stuck, I would just remove the saw from the bar so that if it were to smash down, at least the saw wouldn’t get smashed and just the bar
Good tip
For almost a decade a ran a 25inch regular bar on my MS460, I recently switched to a 32inch light weight bar and I love it. This saw gets used only for bucking firewood and being a tall guy I can stand up straight now, and its actually a little lighter than my first bar.
Funny how a small change makes such a difference. I'm loving the lightweight bar more so for better balance then overall weight
I dig it. Subscribed! Had a cottonwood growing over a garage last year. I pieced it down until we couldnt anymore (too close to the roof for rigging, and i was WIPED). We set a rope in it and rigged a 5:1, put it on a dodge ram and pulled it over. Big open face notch, lots of wedges, and GREAT SUCCESS.
Great to hear you got it down safe and sound
The small number you referenced on the cutting tooth actually refers to the pitch. 3 means 3/8 pitch. The chain gauge number is on the drive link that rides in the bar.
Thank you
I run a ms500i with a Stihl light 32’’ bar. It’s great. I am a retired arborist & I still fell on our property, it’s nice & LIGHT👍
That's a nice setup
I am just a guy feeding a wood stove, i bought an MS362 about a year ago, 25" bar. Thanks for the info!
Love my wood stove
I had no idea you invented the Top Saw tool! I keep one in my chainsaw box. Great tool!
Glad to hear you like it
My 661 balances real nice with a 36" Tsumura lightweight bar. I have a OEM Stihl Rolomatic for it in the same length and use that just for milling on the Alaskan saw frame now as it makes the saw real nose heavy and nowhere near as easy to work with when felling. I could not get a Stihl lightweight bar at the time and went with the Tsumura instead and am very happy with it
That's a nice saw, 661 with a lightweight 36" bar
@@topsaw I have others but that is my go to
I have an MS261 with a 20" light weight bar (33RS3 chain) and an MS400C-M with the 25" light weight bar (33RS3 chain). I completely agree about the balance and easy of handling improvement even with only a 20" bar. The MS261 with the 20" light bar handles more like an MS250 with a 16" solid bar, just with a lot more power.
Good to hear
Wonder how the 261 would do with an 18” light bar
@@parkerk7018 Never tried it, but my experience with the 20" bar suggests it should work just fine.
My Sthil lightweight bar was only $99 bucks and it’s a 25” bar . The owner of the company is retiring from working his work life . He had a close out sale . I also have a ms 362 , however it’s a little newer than yours ! But still the same model of saw !
Great deal
Do you think a 25 inch is the best route with the 362 I just bought one but it only came with the 20 inch green bar and chain. I think I’ll buy the 25 light bar and yellow chain what do you recommend for all-around good chain Thanks
I haven't used the new Stihl hex chain, but I have heard great things about it. Stihl and Oregon both make the best chains
Thanks for the video just bought the light for my farm saw 250 I'll let you know what I think as soon as my new sprocket comes in
Please do
Cool to see, man ... and I liked those treestuff videos you've done. I'll have to try the lightweight bar when I trash mine :)
Thanks good to hear
I just put my good one on the shelf for backup.... whole new experience over 1lb gives you .... especially going with even lighter weight saw like 462 vs 461.... big difference after hours of running and limbing
I usually take the power head off a stuck bar. Sounds like you were in a hurry though. Good vid sir. Keep safe.
Thank you
have a MS 362 with aftermarket muffler lid, Redbeard Air Filter and it's the CARBURETED version, and have broke out the High plastic Stop so it could be tuned properly....they had it where you couldn't tune it fat enough, they had it screaming....I run a 32" ES Light on it with RS fullSkip runs it wonderfully and no bending over to buck.....
Nice saw, I like the long bar as well
I just bought a ms 500 i and it had a 32 inch bar when I bought it but I wanted a shorter bar so I bought a 25 inch but it is not a light weight bar would you take it back and get a light weight bar? I didn't realize there was difference until I got home and swapped them out.
I have had my eye on the 500i, beautiful looking saw. I don't think I would swap the 25 inch bar for a lightweight bar. It is so short compared to the weight of that big saw, I bet it is pretty well balanced with the regular weight 25 inch bar. it's really a question of feel, if it feels good and balanced keep it.
@@topsaw sounds good I will keep my eyes peeled for the lighter bar and compare the 2. thanks
In my opinion the 500i with a 28-inch light bar is perfectly balanced. I have solid 28 and 32 inch bars, and I have a lightweight 28 inch bar and I'm here to tell you that 28 inch lightweight on that particular saw ia an amazing combination..
The lightweight bars are expensive, but they are awesome! I have a 20" and a 28"
They are but easy to get used to
...just curious...why would you need a 25 inch bar for cutting branches at the top of a tree?
Taking the top off
My 362 won't let me adjust it with the chain cover on. Is that normal or do I have an issue?
Did you clean everything out first?
I love the reduced lightweight bars
I have a 25 and a 32 in the light white version bars and it is a significant difference. I can tell with the nose of it in the feel of it then but then again too I’m running them on a Stihl MS 661 as well so we’re talking on pretty beefy Saw
A light weight bar what do you get for your 395 because I can tell it significantly that it’s not nose heavy at all even with a 32 on mine
Yes, funny how a small thing makes such a difference. On the 395 I don't have a lightweight bar, just a 28
Try the Tsumura lightweight bars. The are super light, tips run cooler compared two the Stihl bars, and the tips are replaceable.
I've heard great things on the Tsumura bars, I plan on getting one
I run both. The Stihl light bar is better.
I agree the Tsumura bars are too flimsy for my liking,the Duralite Cannon Superbars are really good also,a little heavier than the stihl but I think they may be more durable and longer lasting.
I just picked up my MS500i today and it came with a 24” bar. I am ordering a light weight 20” bar. I just read about balance and I’m wondering if a short 20” in a lightweight bar might be too small and light?
Not sure, small light bar for such a big saw. I heard that saw is the real deal.
@@topsaw The saw is really not that big. But we’ll see how the light 20 works. I’ll mill out the lube hole when I get it so it doesn’t dry out.
With all respect, a 20 inch bar will never utilize the full potential of that saw. Honestly if that is all the bar length your typical jobs require then a 362 would have been all the saw you would ever have needed. If you do larger work do yourself a favor and get a 28 in lightweight
@@gregcjdr what about a 25”? I have that on order now because the 20 was too small.
@@bertraminc9412 well the 25 in bar is one of the suggested bars for that saw, however 28 in my own opinion, is the perfect balance between an overly large bar and a bar that is too small to utilize the saws potential. Keep something in mind... a661 which is a much larger framed saw is 7.2 horsepower. That 500i is a medium sized frame saw and is pushing 6.8! That's amazing. Guys who actually had a need for such bars run 36's on 661's all day long. If I were you I would most definitely keep the 25 and also order a 28. Use the shortest bar you can anytime you can help avoid a dangerous Kickback situation should the nose of the bar contact another part of the tree or obstruction. I run a 32 on a 661. A 28 on the the 500i and on a ported 046 Big Bore saw. I then run a 20 on a 362. I also run a 20 on an O26 Pro I've had for over 20 years. That's an amazing little saw. And I always use the smallest lightest saw each section of the job will allow.
Check out Tsu Mura or Sugi Hara lightweight bars also
Great bars as well!
I been thinking about putting a 28” on my 361.
I had the 361 with a 28inch bar, before I replaced it with the 362. It runs the 28 inch bar nicely and feels comfortable in the tree.
I’m in Oregon where you located?
Nor cal
362 is known for smashing 24" bars!
If you have a Mapp gas bottle, heat that bar cherry red and bend it back in the tree saw tooth kerf.
Good as new!
Good luck!
Ok
10 outa 10 is what I give mine.... over a year and more than 500 tanks thru 28” 3/8 pitch 050 gauge
Well said!
No, I've heard not good about their long term lasting. And there's a video that weighs them and difference wasn't really that much considering you are operating it several hours lol. Plus I noticed a huge advantage when I recently replaced my 20 inch bar with a 28 inch bar. Yes, it's heavier lol but whoa!!!! It cuts so much better bc now the weight of bar is doing the work I used to have to do !!! I get it down in cut a few inches and then operate it 1 hand all way thru the cut. Because of the extra wight
So not all weight loss is a good thing
@@williamwallace9620 nope. Smaller bar and chain is new same day. I went to buy small bar and chain bc it was 10 yrs and shot, but I knew this big saw would handle bigger bar(5 cubic inch motor with some power upgrades already in it) so I bought both. Bigger bar cuts better due to weight. Granted, I don't use it on 12 inch logs, but when dealing wit butts at 36 inches or more, it's a huge difference between the 20 and 28 inch bars! I've cut for 30 yrs and never thought of it myself but it's a nice application on bigger stuff when u don't have to work as hard. Work smarter bot harder applies here
@@williamwallace9620 lol I just looked and their is a video of a guy with a stihl does comparison of 20 inch vs a 25 inch bar on saw........it would do u and others good to search 20 vs 25 inch bar. His results are documented on video!!! Same results I learned too except mine isn't on video. Mine don't have to be, I know and learned by curiosity........but I've got a large pro saw, not a residential plastic body so I can only speak for pro saw but then again, a saw is a saw as far as weight and comparing cut times with same saw using different length. I know a residential saw won't do what mine does in seconds.....a few seconds slower each cut , but the comparison is same vs bar length no matter if it's a box store homelight or a stihl pro.
@@williamwallace9620 exactly what I said. I have a big saw. It can handle bigger bar
I found and so did another TH-cam video, by putimg bigger bar, the weight of that bar made the cuts faster. So lighter is not always better, thus, the light bar as it's called is not a real advantage other than carrying it from truck to tree lol and it's not a real weight savings anyway...btw, there's also a video o. That where the 2 are weighed and its shocking how little the difference. It was like half a pound lol overall and my comment was I will carry the half pound if my cuts are 3 to 5 seconds faster each pass!!! Which they are and probably more than that if I actually work, but I noticed and so did the other TH-cam video, witha. Larger bar, you actually have less input, thus you make more cuts and not as tired
@@williamwallace9620 yes, we have quite a few saws, different tools have different chores, but for our big saw, which is so big its not in cc rating lol, it's actually rated in hp and is a pro saw bought in 1999 all metal casing, it made a huge difference in cut time. No sprocket change required, same chain tooth size, just longer with big bar, but its now actually getting full potential. We just cut some red oak and the butts were right at 30 inches for the 1st 8 ft or so. We saw 19 to 22 inch cuts for our stoves and I was cutting those slices in just over 30 seconds each w the big bar!!! Thats almost an inch per second at 30 inch diameter blocks. It was incredible. I've sawed 30 yrs and I knew after 1st block it was better. Like I said I never would have thought it, I stumbled on it by accident just bc my local shop which is same shop we bought it at over 20 yrs ago is very knowledgeable and he knew what saw I had and knew of the power upgrades on it and said your saw can definitely handle this bar...he was right, it never bound up in the least, it was full rpm all the way thru. But yes, if u put that bar on the little 029 which is still better than most saws out there, you'd be in trouble binding and sweating all day long and the weight out front would kill a man's back and arms, but with a large saw, it feels great and you work less at it on the large butts. It's not a trail clearer, it's not a limber. We have smaller saws for that. I suppose if I was clearing trails, yes, I'd go w a light bar too. As stated above, that's why a tool pouch has more than 1 tool in it 🤣 be safe out on Appalachian.......I'm in NC myself so I've been on the trail head quite a few times myself.
Nothing cuts better then a new factory sharp skip tooth
If you get it stuck and if you can take the power head off the saw take it off so you only lose a bat instead of the powerhead... sh!t happens tho along as your safe
Wish I did
C Clip , or affectionately known as the jesus clip.
Might have wanted to pull the drum and clean behind it since you had a pound of saw cake coming out of the clutch? And your oiler lives back in there.
Light bars are AWESOME.
Yes indeed
Whats that bar cost?
They are expensive. I think around $145 for the 32inch bar
I hope they will improve the quality of those light bars. They have an inconsistent hardness along the rails. The standard ES ones are very well made in my opinion, far better than Oregon, Tsumura or Sugi Hara - which often breaks when stressed and it's the most expensive out of all mentioned above. I heard that Cannon makes the best ones but they are very expensive and I rather buy a smaĺl chainsaw than a Cannon bar.
I haven't used it enough yet to see how it holds up over time, so far no complaints but still early
I've got light bars on my 261 and 460 , never want to go back.
They really are a game changer
How much was it?
I can't remember the exact price, I'd just check online
An expensive lesson we have all learned. Now the power head comes off with all pinching situations. I carry a spare bar and chains.
Yes, good idea
I know you didn’t put that new bar, chain, and sprocket on dry… 😏 🤦🏻♂️ Face cut no more than 1/3 of overall diameter 90% of the time… 🤭😅 how do you like the bar? Price?
Yes, very true. The bar was expensive but I really like it. Seems like the saw is much better balanced, like it was designed for that bar.
I have the 362cm. swapped out the 25" for the "light" 20" feels way better.
Surprising how a little weight change makes such a difference in feel
I don't think a 362 could handle a 25 ' bar oiling wise that is ,for one u don't want to overheat u bar n chain !
stihl light are lighter than the tsumura light/tough bars. you cant go wrong with factory stihl.
Yes, Factory Stihl sure do feel right
Good job.Shoe
Thank
Just pull the bar off the saw when you are in a situation like that
Ok
🤟🏽
Thank you
@@topsaw question can I run a 28 inch light weight bar on
My MS 310 ?
@@KMadSawWorks might be a little too big bar