As per the science, the best angle is 12-13 for most steels (cheap kitchen knife and supersteel alike) 15 for more brittle large carbide steels like D2. Thats the best performing angle; lower or higher and it dulls faster. If you manage to chip or roll the edge with your use case, increase the angle by a degree or two. It doesn't take much to stabilize an edge. The performance difference between 25 degrees per side and 13 is on the magnitude of 3x better edge retention performance. I run my 14c27n scandi at 11.5 dps with no microbevel, it carves with ease. My other knives are probably between 14-17.
Thanks for bringing that to our attention. It seems like we're both right. Having had a poke around Knife Steel Nerds, it looks like a lower angle wears away more, and is more susceptible to damage like chipping and rolling. So a high-angle edge does last longer. But even when worn down further than a high-angle edge, a low-angle edge performs better on the CATRA test. If anyone's interested, this is blog post I read, and that I think @ekatime is referring to: knifesteelnerds.com/2018/06/18/maximizing-edge-retention/ Fascinating stuff.
I agree but Dr. Thomas does say that, but he also says that optimal edge geometry depends on the steel and the heat treatment, as well as the intended use. A very soft steel at very acute angles will roll very easily, while very hard steels will chip (or worse) when edges are extremely acute. Good comment!
Bingo: It is “Horses for Courses” & LARRIN likes Steels that are tough enough & have good Edge-Apex Stability (rather than very toothy edges & high carbide content, aiming as “sawing” cardboard/cable
My Farmers Market sharpening setup is nearly rusted at 22*. Few high-quality kitchen knives come in there. I have found the EDC guy is the most discerning customer. I set pocketknives at 17* for the "super steels" and 20* with a few licks on the strop for the older solid vintage carbon pocketknives.
I think if you are going over 20 degrees on a field-skinner/field-dressing knife, it's time to invest in a harder steel...perhaps something like N690 (high carbon, high chromium) or M390 if you hate sharpening (higher priced, but has a lots of vanadium as well). I personally had poor experience with D2 steel (popular option)...it just doesn't have enough chromium to work in damp environments D2 will just start to get microchips which is terrible in the field. You would be better off with 1095 but just keep it oiled and have a edge honer handy...and 1095 is a great all around bush knife! Oh, 154CM would also be a great budget option or take a step-up to CPM 154.
25 degrees per side versus 15 per side is quite literally 3x longer edge retention. Always best to start acute and then if it rolls or chips whatsoever, go more obtuse. It doesn't take much more angle to make it stable. @@VitalyMack
Agree, it depends on usage and twenty degrees being a general for pocket knives, but imaging it also depends on the starting grind, finish, blade shape, and stock thickness you're starting with and trying to make it something it'll never be. For instance, putting twelve degrees on something whose TBE is .025 and expecting super sliciness. I'm not a sharpener or expert, but just looking at it from a novice common sense perspective. Thanks for these videos, interesting topic.
The video starts with the basic question...what angle should I sharpen me knife at. The first answer given is 20 degrees. My question is, is that the bevel angle or the edge angle, which is twice the bevel angle on symetrical blades?
what angle is the best for fillet knifes forged knifes or stamped. iclean a lot of fish, i am consereding of buying a tormack knife sharpening systen with the diamond wheel,
You'd want something fairly durable. It depends a bit on the steel of your knife, but something between 20-25 degrees should work for most boning knives.
The lower the angle, the better the knife will slice through things, because you're pushing a thinner edge through the material. But it makes the edge more delicate. A higher angle is more durable, so its better suited to cutting a wider range of materials without getting damaged.
I don't have any experience with sabers. If you're talking about the cavalry sword, I'd recommend sharpening somewhere in the 25-30 degree range. I don't think they're sharpened if you're talking about the Olympic fencing sword.
LOL… talk about edging your bets… of course it Edge-Apex Strength depends on Steel Matrix/Carbides, & Edge Stability… but we are talking Quality blades, not just Cutting Geometry, but the Steel ability to Sustain it❗️22.5/Side would be for a LARGE Tough-Matrix, low Carbide Steel not too hard CHOPPER (1/4 of a 90 Degree). However, for a careful SLICER, 1/2 of that angle would be sweet (eg: AEB-L, 01 & Chisel steels). For a good Bushcraft duty/ Wood Whittling, Compressive strength rather than Impact strength (brute force) you need that Hardness & Plastic Deformation resistance: 14-16 Degrees Scandi works very well on A2, M2 steels @ 60+ HRC, & still cut wonderfully while retaining that Edge Apex. For a Trail knife, a High Sabre @ 18 Degrees/Side (eg D2, 440C, CM154) will have the necessary Task Robustness to support a keen enough edge… I like the 16 Degrees/Side for most of my outdoor knives, but A2 can hold a 15/Side Scandi, & both O1 & M2 will hold a more acute angle (You can precisely Baton with it if not quite Chop” … so limit the knife length‼️)
Knife Grinders Australia found that even more acute was ideal. D2 was best at 15 degrees, and other knives from super steels like k390 to cheapie dollar store kitchen knives were best at 12-13. I run my scandi at 11.5 in 14c28n because that steel has extra edge stability. The knives were tested with a bearing at an angle rolling along the edge, so not even catra, more real world stability. They also tested them in a meat plant de-boning and correlated positively between the two.
Absolutely. Sticking with the existing angle will always be the simplest way to go. This isn't always possible with old knives that have been poorly sharpened. Or even new knives that arrive with uneven bevels.
The best instant angle setter is: 22.5 degrees anywhere anytime...TAKE A SINGLE PIECE OF RECTANGLE PAPER, FOLD IT FAR CORNER TO FAR CORNER MAKE S 45 DEGREES, FOLD A SECOND TIME ... WHALA! 22.5 DEGREES ANY WHERE ANY TIME
As per the science, the best angle is 12-13 for most steels (cheap kitchen knife and supersteel alike)
15 for more brittle large carbide steels like D2. Thats the best performing angle; lower or higher and it dulls faster. If you manage to chip or roll the edge with your use case, increase the angle by a degree or two. It doesn't take much to stabilize an edge. The performance difference between 25 degrees per side and 13 is on the magnitude of 3x better edge retention performance.
I run my 14c27n scandi at 11.5 dps with no microbevel, it carves with ease. My other knives are probably between 14-17.
Sounds like you listened to the Aussie guys. The experts. Well done
I typically use a 17° for pocket knives and 20-22° for fixed blades. Of course overall blade thickness and intended use has to be taken into account.
Nice. If I think the steel can handle it, I'm with you on a slicier angle for pocket knives.
1:00 But Dr. Larrin Thomas says his research shows that lower angle has much higher edge retention in practice.
Thanks for bringing that to our attention. It seems like we're both right. Having had a poke around Knife Steel Nerds, it looks like a lower angle wears away more, and is more susceptible to damage like chipping and rolling. So a high-angle edge does last longer. But even when worn down further than a high-angle edge, a low-angle edge performs better on the CATRA test. If anyone's interested, this is blog post I read, and that I think @ekatime is referring to: knifesteelnerds.com/2018/06/18/maximizing-edge-retention/ Fascinating stuff.
I agree but Dr. Thomas does say that, but he also says that optimal edge geometry depends on the steel and the heat treatment, as well as the intended use. A very soft steel at very acute angles will roll very easily, while very hard steels will chip (or worse) when edges are extremely acute. Good comment!
Bingo: It is “Horses for Courses” & LARRIN likes Steels that are tough enough & have good Edge-Apex Stability (rather than very toothy edges & high carbide content, aiming as “sawing” cardboard/cable
i was thinking the same thing .
I have an old solingen carving knife that had still its factory edge. Measured it at 8° with much wear at the tip and edge collapse on one spot.
My Farmers Market sharpening setup is nearly rusted at 22*. Few high-quality kitchen knives come in there. I have found the EDC guy is the most discerning customer. I set pocketknives at 17* for the "super steels" and 20* with a few licks on the strop for the older solid vintage carbon pocketknives.
Mora are at 13°
What angle u recommend on hide skinning knives? Ive always done between 20 n 25 degrees . Normally not hitting bone
I think if you are going over 20 degrees on a field-skinner/field-dressing knife, it's time to invest in a harder steel...perhaps something like N690 (high carbon, high chromium) or M390 if you hate sharpening (higher priced, but has a lots of vanadium as well). I personally had poor experience with D2 steel (popular option)...it just doesn't have enough chromium to work in damp environments D2 will just start to get microchips which is terrible in the field. You would be better off with 1095 but just keep it oiled and have a edge honer handy...and 1095 is a great all around bush knife!
Oh, 154CM would also be a great budget option or take a step-up to CPM 154.
25 degrees per side versus 15 per side is quite literally 3x longer edge retention. Always best to start acute and then if it rolls or chips whatsoever, go more obtuse. It doesn't take much more angle to make it stable. @@VitalyMack
Agree, it depends on usage and twenty degrees being a general for pocket knives, but imaging it also depends on the starting grind, finish, blade shape, and stock thickness you're starting with and trying to make it something it'll never be.
For instance, putting twelve degrees on something whose TBE is .025 and expecting super sliciness.
I'm not a sharpener or expert, but just looking at it from a novice common sense perspective.
Thanks for these videos, interesting topic.
Great points! Sharpening angles is a huge topic, with lots of factors to consider. Hopefully we'll be able to cover some more of them soon.
@@SharpeningSupplies, I'll be here. ✌😊
The video starts with the basic question...what angle should I sharpen me knife at. The first answer given is 20 degrees. My question is, is that the bevel angle or the edge angle, which is twice the bevel angle on symetrical blades?
Sharpening angle usually refers to the angle you hold the knife in relation to your abrasives. So it'll be the bevel angle.
please advice a versatile angle to shave and at a same time emergency base wood chopping baton style use...
That's obviously Δ°. Per side, of course.
think you should also talk about how fine of a stone should be used, sometimes a rougher stone can better the using a super fine stone
Great information!
Glad it was helpful!
what angle is the best for fillet knifes forged knifes or stamped. iclean a lot of fish, i am consereding of buying a tormack knife sharpening systen with the diamond wheel,
Our resident fisherman, John, recommends 20 degrees. If you're looking at the T-4 or T-8 you easily set it up for that.
About 17° for my 1.75" ×8" santoku with cheapo steel :)
Solid choice.
What angle is the best for a boning knife?
You'd want something fairly durable. It depends a bit on the steel of your knife, but something between 20-25 degrees should work for most boning knives.
Why do certain knives have to be at different angles? Japanese15degree and pocket hunting at 20degree?
The lower the angle, the better the knife will slice through things, because you're pushing a thinner edge through the material. But it makes the edge more delicate. A higher angle is more durable, so its better suited to cutting a wider range of materials without getting damaged.
How much a sabre sword angle be?
I don't have any experience with sabers. If you're talking about the cavalry sword, I'd recommend sharpening somewhere in the 25-30 degree range. I don't think they're sharpened if you're talking about the Olympic fencing sword.
The guy in black shirt is also an expert of saying " you know "
If you know you know 😅
LOL… talk about edging your bets… of course it Edge-Apex Strength depends on Steel Matrix/Carbides, & Edge Stability… but we are talking Quality blades, not just Cutting Geometry, but the Steel ability to Sustain it❗️22.5/Side would be for a LARGE Tough-Matrix, low Carbide Steel not too hard CHOPPER (1/4 of a 90 Degree). However, for a careful SLICER, 1/2 of that angle would be sweet (eg: AEB-L, 01 & Chisel steels). For a good Bushcraft duty/ Wood Whittling, Compressive strength rather than Impact strength (brute force) you need that Hardness & Plastic Deformation resistance: 14-16 Degrees Scandi works very well on A2, M2 steels @ 60+ HRC, & still cut wonderfully while retaining that Edge Apex. For a Trail knife, a High Sabre @ 18 Degrees/Side (eg D2, 440C, CM154) will have the necessary Task Robustness to support a keen enough edge… I like the 16 Degrees/Side for most of my outdoor knives, but A2 can hold a 15/Side Scandi, & both O1 & M2 will hold a more acute angle (You can precisely Baton with it if not quite Chop” … so limit the knife length‼️)
Knife Grinders Australia found that even more acute was ideal. D2 was best at 15 degrees, and other knives from super steels like k390 to cheapie dollar store kitchen knives were best at 12-13. I run my scandi at 11.5 in 14c28n because that steel has extra edge stability.
The knives were tested with a bearing at an angle rolling along the edge, so not even catra, more real world stability. They also tested them in a meat plant de-boning and correlated positively between the two.
Good starting point is use the factory angle
Absolutely. Sticking with the existing angle will always be the simplest way to go. This isn't always possible with old knives that have been poorly sharpened. Or even new knives that arrive with uneven bevels.
...duh
The best instant angle setter is: 22.5 degrees anywhere anytime...TAKE A SINGLE PIECE OF RECTANGLE PAPER, FOLD IT FAR CORNER TO FAR CORNER MAKE S 45 DEGREES, FOLD A SECOND TIME ... WHALA! 22.5 DEGREES ANY WHERE ANY TIME