I made one from Tay tool's kits and it is AMAZING ... I found that the wheel sharpens better than my veritas marking gauge and thus cuts the wood fibers cleaner !! ... the kit had set unopened for more than a year at my house but then I decided to go for it after I bought a small drill press and I could drill the hole for the rod perpendicular to the face
absolutely love the fact that you had some very old wood to make a project from! that is so damn cool!! as always thanks for the vids! happy turkey day to you and the missus!!
I found a marking gauge with two wheels we talked about building. This one is the Stanley #91 tenon marking guage. His one doesn't have the rod stabilizer that mine will have. Still trying to clear out a couple of projects prior to the buikd.
This turned out great! One idea that popped up in my mind is that you could have countersunk the central hole (the one the rod passes through) the tiniest bit on one side so the cutting disc could disappear in there entirely. Doesn't seem like a necessity, but perhaps that would provide a bit of extra protection.
If you use it a lot on hardwoods you will find that even the ancient oak will wear. A harder wear surface below the cutter will stop this. I have used pieces of ivory from antique piano keys inlet into the wood. It wears very well and provides a slippery surface so the gauge glides easier.
I live in northern Kentucky and I have a 200+ year old tobacco barn. I’ve been using some of the old rails out of it and have had old timers tell me a lot of the wood is “chestnut oak”. Anyone ever heard of this? It’s hard as a rock of course but it’s beautiful. James if your interested I can send you a few pieces to play with. O btw of course there’s old pine, poplar, white and red oak, and I think some locust.
I would love to play with some old chestnut. Unfortunately a disease went through them over a hundred years ago and there's only a few thousand left in the US. Used to be a very common tree that was used all over the US. Now. They are incredibly rare at all protected.
When you drilled the hole for the beam, is that a Wood Owl ship auger? Would you recommend those for a first set of auger bits for a new brace user, or would the tri-cut ones be a better choice? Or something else entirely?
the wood ole is my favorite auger. fast and clean. but it depends on the brace you want to use it in. here is a video with a bit more on it. th-cam.com/video/bjAomHJ_8mE/w-d-xo.html
Actually putting it across the grain would cause it to split more as you be putting stress. Trying to tear the fibers apart. If you put it in line with the grain and then you're using the strength of the fibers. It's kind of counterintuitive as putting it across the grain would actually act like a wedge even though putting it with the grain. Looks like you would be using it like a wedge.
I made one from Tay tool's kits and it is AMAZING ... I found that the wheel sharpens better than my veritas marking gauge and thus cuts the wood fibers cleaner !! ... the kit had set unopened for more than a year at my house but then I decided to go for it after I bought a small drill press and I could drill the hole for the rod perpendicular to the face
absolutely love the fact that you had some very old wood to make a project from! that is so damn cool!! as always thanks for the vids! happy turkey day to you and the missus!!
Nice! I made one of them myself and really like it. That wood is just right!
Looking good! You really love your white oak. 😁
Ring on the bit. Nice touch ☺️
I found a marking gauge with two wheels we talked about building.
This one is the Stanley #91 tenon marking guage. His one doesn't have the rod stabilizer that mine will have. Still trying to clear out a couple of projects prior to the buikd.
Just bought the kit! Thanks.
Hi, for a small improvement, you can countersink the hole to make the cutter disapear and protect it when not in use.
I thought about it, but forgot when I was getting close to applying the finish. it was too exciting!
@@WoodByWright BLO is James's "Squirrel!" 😂
This turned out great! One idea that popped up in my mind is that you could have countersunk the central hole (the one the rod passes through) the tiniest bit on one side so the cutting disc could disappear in there entirely. Doesn't seem like a necessity, but perhaps that would provide a bit of extra protection.
I thought about it, but forgot when I was getting close to applying the finish. it was too exciting!
@@WoodByWright haha I love your reasons for doing things! Shows true passion for... applying boiled linseed oil :D
Really beautiful work, James! It really looks fantastic! 😃
I would love to find that kit here in Brazil!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Wished you sold more tools on your site!
I must try that.
As I said I was in mind to build a two rod M&T guage using two of your kits. I did it and will post photos soon.
I posted the photos of it on your Facebook Page
If you use it a lot on hardwoods you will find that even the ancient oak will wear. A harder wear surface below the cutter will stop this. I have used pieces of ivory from antique piano keys inlet into the wood. It wears very well and provides a slippery surface so the gauge glides easier.
very true. after a few dozen years I will have to replace it, but the task only takes 20-30 minutes.
Really awesome!
wow you now have a marking guage that started life 247 years BEFORE your country was born !!
I am sure it started a long time before that. the oak that built the barn died then.
Hi, what drill/auger bits do you use in your brace? They seem to cut supremely cleanly!
Those are wood owl. I have a few videos on them and why I like them.
I live in northern Kentucky and I have a 200+ year old tobacco barn. I’ve been using some of the old rails out of it and have had old timers tell me a lot of the wood is “chestnut oak”. Anyone ever heard of this? It’s hard as a rock of course but it’s beautiful. James if your interested I can send you a few pieces to play with.
O btw of course there’s old pine, poplar, white and red oak, and I think some locust.
I would love to play with some old chestnut. Unfortunately a disease went through them over a hundred years ago and there's only a few thousand left in the US. Used to be a very common tree that was used all over the US. Now. They are incredibly rare at all protected.
The 1704 Newlin Grist Mill is one of many sites growing Chestnut seedlings from a surviving tree. Someday ....
Hmmm never thought of that one ! nice . What to do diffrent …🤔 well maybe use your lathe to make your wood peace round 😁🇨🇦👍🏼
When you drilled the hole for the beam, is that a Wood Owl ship auger? Would you recommend those for a first set of auger bits for a new brace user, or would the tri-cut ones be a better choice? Or something else entirely?
the wood ole is my favorite auger. fast and clean. but it depends on the brace you want to use it in. here is a video with a bit more on it. th-cam.com/video/bjAomHJ_8mE/w-d-xo.html
Very nice
Amplified thank you
nice
You ever build any instruments? I've been building lap steel guitars out of European steamed beech since the start of the pandemic.
Not in a few years, but some day again.
@0:53 You need job experience to get a job
but you need a job to get job experience
Hi 👋
Congrats on first!
Now make one without a kit 😁🇨🇦
I have a few of those videos
Boop
Surely the locking screw would be better across the grain, although you’re unlikely to split 500 year old oak.
Actually putting it across the grain would cause it to split more as you be putting stress. Trying to tear the fibers apart. If you put it in line with the grain and then you're using the strength of the fibers. It's kind of counterintuitive as putting it across the grain would actually act like a wedge even though putting it with the grain. Looks like you would be using it like a wedge.
Amplified thank you