Just so you know the engineers that design the hard body was Gerald Hirshberg, Tom Wallace and Jeff Lane former Buick employees. To be precise they were the individuals that designed the Buick Grand National. Secondly the load sensing valve in the rear of these trucks was designed to increase flow to the rear brakes when loaded. Went unloaded they only allow 50% flow to the rear brakes.
Yep that bleeder is for the clutch . I just did mine and no clutch. Just bleed the loadsencing valve rear passenger then rear driver then passenger front then driver.
Im having a problem where my driver side Caliper is more powerful than the passenger side.. i have replaced Calipers 5 times thinking i got a bad batch but problem still continues.. brake hoses, rotors, pads, wheel bearings are all new.. i have bleed all 4 corners many times and still no change.. could it be the Master cylinder?
Brakes work at about 70/30. 70% front 30% rear. Sounds to me like a brake line is mixed up in the proportioning valve. If you pump the pedal up, does the pressure equalize? You have a strange problem, I have not come across before honestly.
I have a 97 d21 went off roading didnt even repair anything and my brake pedal is stiff but I wasn’t before , my lines are not torn my the hoses and valve on the booster seem ok any ideas much appreciated
@@elirivera2975 is your brake sensing valve stuck, so the rear brakes dont work right? Usually your pedal height is in the rear drum brakes on most vehicles that have them.
@@RustBeltAuto they all work the pedal is just really stiff. The booster is newish and all the lines have been replaced like I said it was random when it started so lost
I just put new calipers and lines in my 1997 king cab and it still is locking up, any suggestions? Brakes work fine until the pedal gets hard eventually
If calipers are hanging up, and you open the bleeder, and fluid squirts out, and the calipers are free again, you bay have a collapsed flexible hose. If not, it's your calipers. if you loosen the metal line before the hose, and there is no pressure, and pressure at the bleeder, you will know its the hose.
@@gabeguadan some people told me that was for the clutch master cylinder? I don't even know if I'm right anymore. All I know for sure, is that this truck was a shipwreck. For what it's worth, you're welcome.
Rust Belt Auto at this point it might’ve been the clutch master cylinder bug I got so pissed off at the brakes not working right I just said f it and replaced all the calipers and soft lines😂got her done one way or the other
Not sure if this is wrong with my truck, but i got a loose pedal, and have went through a bottle of brake fluid within the last 3 weeks. I don't see any leakage anywhere, so i'm not sure what it could be. Anyone got an idea what it could be?
So i bled my brakes, and i noticed there is a leak coming from the brake booster area that i never notcied before until today. But after bleeding, the brakes are somewhat okay again. Also now i think i got a leak in the brake line on the rear driver side. 🤷♂️
That system is goofy. That part is there for a reason. Caravans, Taurus, and others use them too. Deleting it may cause your rear brakes to over brake in hard brake cornering, or a panic stop. When the rear of the truck gets too light.
The module abs ur point out its not abs module in the part your wrong..i just verify thats the slave cilinder valve that the valve it for the clutch i loos it so i lost my clutch pedal. So i had to bleed my slave cylinder..the abs module ur are taking about it, its on the right side middle under the truck.. and there is the one u showed
Okay. Thank you. I didn't believe people before, because for one, I have never seen any valve on a firewall for a clutch before. What the heck is that thing called? Is it just there for bleeding? When I cracked that open on this truck, the clutch still worked, so I guess I never came to that determination. Contemplating removing this video now. I probably should. Did you make a better video for everyone to see? Thanks!
@@RustBeltAuto I believe it's just called the clutch dampener, alot of people just delete them with a brake line union and go straight from master straight to slave
Good job. You did forget to show another hidden bleeder valve.........it is directly below the passenger side front seat next to frame rail. It is on the abs servo. Not bleeding that during a brake overhaul will always make the the abs light shine.
OOh. Thanks for the info. Is that not the servo on the firewall on this truck. Sorry, I deleted my last comment, because I forgot what was on this thing.
Thank you so much my master was bad so i replaced it and bled everything and no pedal so i replaced my booster still nothing i was losing my mind until i watched this video 🤦♂️😂
@@RustBeltAuto well I have bad news man it didnt work I put on a new caliper and a new master break cylinder did exactly what you did and no luck so now I'm back to square one
@@MarioGarcia-vw1wj check your rear brake adjustment. Make sure the shoes are barely touching off on the drums. If all the air is out of the system, that is all that is left. Too much clearance between the shoes, and drums will give you a low brake pedal. You can also have someone hold the pedal down, and make sure all 4 corners are braking. Good luck.
@@RustBeltAuto well that didn't work it builds pressure when I pump it but if I let it go for about 10 seconds and then pump again it goes all the way to the floor. The master cylinder has two lines connected and both of them are working so I don't know what else to do so my mechanic is coming tomorrow.
ABS hydraulic unit. There is no need to have a unit like that with more than one line if it is for the clutch. Someone else said that too. Hoping I couldn't be more wrong.
@@RustBeltAuto i bled every spot I could. By the time 1 was done, had brakes, not clutch. Had too bleed that 1 spot to get it back. It was a good video. But that bleeder IS 4 the clutch
@@one1onetime935ok so i just got to the bleed valve on every wheels then pump the pedal till brakeoil comes out ? Or how do i know if theres no more air ?
Just so you know the engineers that design the hard body was Gerald Hirshberg, Tom Wallace and Jeff Lane former Buick employees. To be precise they were the individuals that designed the Buick Grand National. Secondly the load sensing valve in the rear of these trucks was designed to increase flow to the rear brakes when loaded. Went unloaded they only allow 50% flow to the rear brakes.
How do you replace brake lines that run along frame rail on 1994 Nissan d21 hard body. Thank You Please Respond
@@haroldscreen8923 be creative?
That valve on the fire wall is for the clutch.
Okay
Are you sure that’s not the clutch dampener up by the coiled lines under the hood?
I deleted mine 😏
I'm not sure of anything after this "job". Could have done more, but victim finanances put a kabosh on that.
Yep that bleeder is for the clutch . I just did mine and no clutch. Just bleed the loadsencing valve rear passenger then rear driver then passenger front then driver.
Se me rompio la valvula compensadora de freno como la anulo para poder repararla
Im having a problem where my driver side Caliper is more powerful than the passenger side.. i have replaced Calipers 5 times thinking i got a bad batch but problem still continues.. brake hoses, rotors, pads, wheel bearings are all new.. i have bleed all 4 corners many times and still no change.. could it be the Master cylinder?
Brakes work at about 70/30. 70% front 30% rear. Sounds to me like a brake line is mixed up in the proportioning valve. If you pump the pedal up, does the pressure equalize? You have a strange problem, I have not come across before honestly.
I have a 97 d21 went off roading didnt even repair anything and my brake pedal is stiff but I wasn’t before , my lines are not torn my the hoses and valve on the booster seem ok any ideas much appreciated
Are your brakes working okay? Is any of your brakes getting hot when you drive it, or hanging up?
Yes I l jacked the truck all 4 tires spin freely thanks for the help really appreciate
@@elirivera2975 is your brake sensing valve stuck, so the rear brakes dont work right? Usually your pedal height is in the rear drum brakes on most vehicles that have them.
@@RustBeltAuto they all work the pedal is just really stiff. The booster is newish and all the lines have been replaced like I said it was random when it started so lost
@@elirivera2975 strange. Maybe something happened with your freeplay, or master cylinder rod adjustment I really dont know.
I just put new calipers and lines in my 1997 king cab and it still is locking up, any suggestions? Brakes work fine until the pedal gets hard eventually
If calipers are hanging up, and you open the bleeder, and fluid squirts out, and the calipers are free again, you bay have a collapsed flexible hose. If not, it's your calipers. if you loosen the metal line before the hose, and there is no pressure, and pressure at the bleeder, you will know its the hose.
Rust Belt Auto hey man I bled the abs port on the passenger side and they freed up nice no stick at all anymore thank you!!
@@gabeguadan some people told me that was for the clutch master cylinder? I don't even know if I'm right anymore. All I know for sure, is that this truck was a shipwreck. For what it's worth, you're welcome.
Rust Belt Auto at this point it might’ve been the clutch master cylinder bug I got so pissed off at the brakes not working right I just said f it and replaced all the calipers and soft lines😂got her done one way or the other
But*
Not sure if this is wrong with my truck, but i got a loose pedal, and have went through a bottle of brake fluid within the last 3 weeks. I don't see any leakage anywhere, so i'm not sure what it could be. Anyone got an idea what it could be?
Probably going into your brake booster.
So i bled my brakes, and i noticed there is a leak coming from the brake booster area that i never notcied before until today. But after bleeding, the brakes are somewhat okay again. Also now i think i got a leak in the brake line on the rear driver side. 🤷♂️
My lsv is leaking I’m wondering how to delete it?
That system is goofy. That part is there for a reason. Caravans, Taurus, and others use them too. Deleting it may cause your rear brakes to over brake in hard brake cornering, or a panic stop. When the rear of the truck gets too light.
What number are the wheels?
Everything on this car is... Number one?
How the heck did those tires get beaded onto the rims? Wow. Strechhhhh
2:40 of your video . That part your pointing out is not for the brakes . It is for the clutch slave .
Do believe it's called an ABS hydraulic unit.
That is in fact for the clutch. Not brakes. If you replace the master or slave clutch cylinders you'll want to bleed that
The module abs ur point out its not abs module in the part your wrong..i just verify thats the slave cilinder valve that the valve it for the clutch i loos it so i lost my clutch pedal. So i had to bleed my slave cylinder..the abs module ur are taking about it, its on the right side middle under the truck.. and there is the one u showed
Okay. Thank you. I didn't believe people before, because for one, I have never seen any valve on a firewall for a clutch before. What the heck is that thing called? Is it just there for bleeding? When I cracked that open on this truck, the clutch still worked, so I guess I never came to that determination. Contemplating removing this video now. I probably should. Did you make a better video for everyone to see? Thanks!
I will make one later on i own one of this truck
@@SamsAutomotiveS Make a nice vid, and I will take this one down. Let me know when you finish it.
@@RustBeltAuto I believe it's just called the clutch dampener, alot of people just delete them with a brake line union and go straight from master straight to slave
You can't fool me , You're Jessie Ventura.
Good job. You did forget to show another hidden bleeder valve.........it is directly below the passenger side front seat next to frame rail. It is on the abs servo. Not bleeding that during a brake overhaul will always make the the abs light shine.
OOh. Thanks for the info. Is that not the servo on the firewall on this truck. Sorry, I deleted my last comment, because I forgot what was on this thing.
Thank you so much my master was bad so i replaced it and bled everything and no pedal so i replaced my booster still nothing i was losing my mind until i watched this video 🤦♂️😂
Same with my nissan van sir. Very stressful thing..
What fender flares are on this D21?
No clue
TEAMEAT SHIT! Go to eBay and type in "Universal JDM Fender Flares over wide body wheel arches ABS 3.5" 4pcs" they will pop right up
Absolute genius,! Thank you for this video, i am down a litter of fluid and loosing my hair! Will do!
If you read the comments, you will see that I have not made it to genius status.
OMG you are a life saver man all fucking day ive been looking for answers and by the grace of God I found your video thanks a million
Google found my video for you. I'm sure God has nothing to do with it. Thanks for watching!
@@RustBeltAuto well I have bad news man it didnt work I put on a new caliper and a new master break cylinder did exactly what you did and no luck so now I'm back to square one
@@MarioGarcia-vw1wj check your rear brake adjustment. Make sure the shoes are barely touching off on the drums. If all the air is out of the system, that is all that is left. Too much clearance between the shoes, and drums will give you a low brake pedal. You can also have someone hold the pedal down, and make sure all 4 corners are braking. Good luck.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks man. I'll do that, I'll hit you up if goes good
@@RustBeltAuto well that didn't work it builds pressure when I pump it but if I let it go for about 10 seconds and then pump again it goes all the way to the floor. The master cylinder has two lines connected and both of them are working so I don't know what else to do so my mechanic is coming tomorrow.
Love the videos
Tanks!
That weird bleeder behind the air intake is clutch
ABS hydraulic unit. There is no need to have a unit like that with more than one line if it is for the clutch. Someone else said that too. Hoping I couldn't be more wrong.
@@RustBeltAuto i bled every spot I could. By the time 1 was done, had brakes, not clutch. Had too bleed that 1 spot to get it back. It was a good video. But that bleeder IS 4 the clutch
@@tannerfincher1941 I thought it was this thing. If that wasn't it, where is it?
www.ebay.com/itm/283734667164
Gravity is the easiest
Just open the bleeders and keep the reservoir full. get a stream out of the bleeders and tighten up good to go
1 person required
@@one1onetime935ok so i just got to the bleed valve on every wheels then pump the pedal till brakeoil comes out ? Or how do i know if theres no more air ?
How to fix this Nissan suv truck thing….uh….just don’t buy one! Works great.