Iso has a thousand uses. An essential for hobbyists. The copper is a great tip. Will have to try and find some locally (usual hardware around here only has galvanised)
Howdy Im material applications specialist for the coatings industry and I can explain why the airbrush "primers" develop those flakes but also apologies but I have a few corrections as something you said was sort of misleading and a bit incorrect. But lets start with the "primer", first of all those "primers" aren't actual primers what they art is an opaque paint for base coating that have speed drying additives like butoxy ethanol and other things. These additives will cause the paint to dry within the bottle very quickly and form aggregates/agglomerates of dried acrylic resins with the pigment. An actual primer has specific solvents in it that will cause it to fuse into plastic much like how plastic glue works. You can also use 100 micron paint sieves which are reusable to strain the paint and it works in 99% of situations as particle size of pigments generally isn't that much smaller with a lot of paints within the mini painting hobby, which is the curse of wanting opacity. Also funny thing about vallejo surface primer. Because it doesnt adhere to the surface it's not legally considered paint in several countries which has gotten vallejo into a bit of hot water a few times in the past few decades. This legal definition comes from something dupont did in the 1960s where they did a ton of things. The more you know right? 😆 I have a few documents on this including a long term study I did as a personal project if you want them but using copper to inhibit mold growth actually doesnt do much for mold at all. We still saw mold growth with copper in wet palettes after a few months and we also saw several cases of galvanic corrosion when using tap water. If you want to stop mold in a wet palette what you need to do is make a deionized or distilled water solution with household ammonia, roughly 118ml water with less than 1ml ammonia but you can increase it to around 1ml for ease. This will not only maintain the pH balance of the acrylics as they are very sensitive to pH changes but keep mold and bacteria from growing. The copper thing comes from copper sulfate and people misunderstand this all the time. People shouldnt be handling copper sulfate without proper PPE as it will give you chemical burns and can cause a lot of health effects from brush licking. The copper stuff as a whole has a lot of very confusing things to it as a whole since its info that gets passed down so it's lost a lot of crucial information which has also affected some scientific studies. Little bonus tip, if you add a few drops of wetting agent like orotan or the one Golden sells this will help stop paint from separating as quickly to the point where I've had paint survive for 4+ months on my palette without separating with the paints I specifically use which are acrylics but not ones marketed towards this hobby. The major correction is that brush soap and bar hand soap are not actually the same thing, while they can do the same job the hand soap can damage sable brushes and destroy the oils in them because they are way more harsh. Masters brush soap, the type everyone uses within the hobby but also one of the lower quality ones on the market contains less than 5% anionic surfactant while hand soap is anywhere from 15-40% where masters uses I believe uses a different type of anionic surfactant than most hand soaps, those tend to use sodium laureth sulfate which destroys the natural oils on natural hair brushes. Sable is a very fragile type of brush and acrylics already destroy them quickly so adding in something like SLS just is a death knell for them. Masters also contains a type of conditioner which isn't in normal hand soap, but not all hand soaps are made equal so you need a hand soap that will be delicate enough for those but those will actually cost more than the brush soap. The masters brush soap works perfectly fine and is what most people use but there are way better one on the market but they are both very expensive and hard to track down like dirty dog brush soap. Also IPA can destroy the glues in some brushes and can destroy sables so its best to be very careful with it. If you really want to save money you can make an incredibly good brush soap doing a saponification of 82% extra virgin olive oil and 18% coconut oil. That all being said I love seeing people properly dispose of paint water as "non-toxic" paint is actually quiet destructive towards the environment so you get mad props from me for promoting that practice.
Thank you for your input, that was a lot of info😊, gave me a lot to think about. About the paint water, I never label it as non-toxic, I put a label that says it is "Paint water from acrylic paints, and it may contain IPA and Epoxy residue". Our local Recycle station, have a section for chemical waste. where they will make sure things don't go back to the environment.
dropped a part in your work space and cant find it? pop the stocking over the vacuum cleaner hose and you should be able to sweep the area and catch it double the use of your purchase
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Ahhh didn't expect the shoutout! Thanks dude!! Great simple tips video!
Any time! You made a great video, and it deserved a shoutout👍
Thanks, Ole, for these tips! You are the man, my friend! - Rick, USMC
Glad to help!👍
cool tips! If you search Half Sphere chocolate moulds it will bring up a variety of sizes if you want bigger wells than the dog treats
cool i will look in to that :-)
Good tips! Relatively new to painting and noticed some build up on my brushes. Will definitely try your cleaning suggestion
Glad it was helpful!😀
Iso has a thousand uses. An essential for hobbyists.
The copper is a great tip. Will have to try and find some locally (usual hardware around here only has galvanised)
I was lucky to get mine from my daily job. I work at an electric company and they use the washers for the Transformer stations😀
Really good tips !!!
Thank you ☺️
You're so welcome!😀
@@olebrogger you are welcome 🤗
Hey thanks for the tips.
No problem!😀
Nice video. I started using IPA to clean my brushes a few months ago
Thank you😀Good to hear!
Howdy Im material applications specialist for the coatings industry and I can explain why the airbrush "primers" develop those flakes but also apologies but I have a few corrections as something you said was sort of misleading and a bit incorrect.
But lets start with the "primer", first of all those "primers" aren't actual primers what they art is an opaque paint for base coating that have speed drying additives like butoxy ethanol and other things. These additives will cause the paint to dry within the bottle very quickly and form aggregates/agglomerates of dried acrylic resins with the pigment.
An actual primer has specific solvents in it that will cause it to fuse into plastic much like how plastic glue works.
You can also use 100 micron paint sieves which are reusable to strain the paint and it works in 99% of situations as particle size of pigments generally isn't that much smaller with a lot of paints within the mini painting hobby, which is the curse of wanting opacity.
Also funny thing about vallejo surface primer. Because it doesnt adhere to the surface it's not legally considered paint in several countries which has gotten vallejo into a bit of hot water a few times in the past few decades. This legal definition comes from something dupont did in the 1960s where they did a ton of things. The more you know right? 😆
I have a few documents on this including a long term study I did as a personal project if you want them but using copper to inhibit mold growth actually doesnt do much for mold at all. We still saw mold growth with copper in wet palettes after a few months and we also saw several cases of galvanic corrosion when using tap water. If you want to stop mold in a wet palette what you need to do is make a deionized or distilled water solution with household ammonia, roughly 118ml water with less than 1ml ammonia but you can increase it to around 1ml for ease. This will not only maintain the pH balance of the acrylics as they are very sensitive to pH changes but keep mold and bacteria from growing. The copper thing comes from copper sulfate and people misunderstand this all the time. People shouldnt be handling copper sulfate without proper PPE as it will give you chemical burns and can cause a lot of health effects from brush licking.
The copper stuff as a whole has a lot of very confusing things to it as a whole since its info that gets passed down so it's lost a lot of crucial information which has also affected some scientific studies.
Little bonus tip, if you add a few drops of wetting agent like orotan or the one Golden sells this will help stop paint from separating as quickly to the point where I've had paint survive for 4+ months on my palette without separating with the paints I specifically use which are acrylics but not ones marketed towards this hobby.
The major correction is that brush soap and bar hand soap are not actually the same thing, while they can do the same job the hand soap can damage sable brushes and destroy the oils in them because they are way more harsh. Masters brush soap, the type everyone uses within the hobby but also one of the lower quality ones on the market contains less than 5% anionic surfactant while hand soap is anywhere from 15-40% where masters uses I believe uses a different type of anionic surfactant than most hand soaps, those tend to use sodium laureth sulfate which destroys the natural oils on natural hair brushes.
Sable is a very fragile type of brush and acrylics already destroy them quickly so adding in something like SLS just is a death knell for them.
Masters also contains a type of conditioner which isn't in normal hand soap, but not all hand soaps are made equal so you need a hand soap that will be delicate enough for those but those will actually cost more than the brush soap.
The masters brush soap works perfectly fine and is what most people use but there are way better one on the market but they are both very expensive and hard to track down like dirty dog brush soap.
Also IPA can destroy the glues in some brushes and can destroy sables so its best to be very careful with it.
If you really want to save money you can make an incredibly good brush soap doing a saponification of 82% extra virgin olive oil and 18% coconut oil.
That all being said I love seeing people properly dispose of paint water as "non-toxic" paint is actually quiet destructive towards the environment so you get mad props from me for promoting that practice.
Thank you for your input, that was a lot of info😊, gave me a lot to think about. About the paint water, I never label it as non-toxic, I put a label that says it is "Paint water from acrylic paints, and it may contain IPA and Epoxy residue". Our local Recycle station, have a section for chemical waste. where they will make sure things don't go back to the environment.
@@olebrogger a man after my heart I see. So few people do that even within my industry and we already know the dangers of it.
dropped a part in your work space and cant find it? pop the stocking over the vacuum cleaner hose and you should be able to sweep the area and catch it
double the use of your purchase
Thanks for the tip! That is a great idea👍