It was a Flexzilla HFZ1450YW2 (1/4" diamater x 50' length). You can find it on Amazon at: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R8LH3E Flexzilla's product page is here: www.flexzilla.com/air/air-hose/ I had somewhere between 10 and 20 feet leftover.
Ah! I completely forgot to mention that both here and in my write-up. I needed a 6" or 4" j-hook tie down, but as far as I could tell, nobody makes those. So I bought a correct-length "eye bolt" from a hardware store and cut out a portion of its eye to make a short j-hook. It's unfortunately a different size nut than the back post. The j-hooks are necessary because they offset the threaded post from the hole a little bit. In order to fit the ARB compressor, the front j-hook post had to fit right in the split on the metal cover of the compressor which didn't line up exactly with the hole on the battery tray. Putting a j-hook there caused the threaded post to line up perfectly (you can see the hole on the battery tray is to the left of the actual threaded post). I did have to trim the cover on the ARB compressor a little bit to allow clearance for the post. You can see that the orange tie-down on top of the compressor is not aligned perfectly with the silver sticker on top of the ARB compressor; this is because the back post goes right into the hole on the battery tray (it's just the threaded rod that came with the battery tray) while the front post is offset because it's my homemade j-hook, and therefore offset. If I really enjoyed cutting small curvy steel with a dremel, I could have cut a 2nd post like the front, and used it on the back so that everything would visually align. I may go back and do that eventually... I also chose not to cut the back post down shorter, as cutting threaded rods tends to make it hard to get nuts on or off the end you cut unless you spend extra time fixing up the threads.
Zero! There were four holes already in the underside of the body that I was able to use. If you mean the aluminum bars that I added, I only had to drill 4 holes in those since the air tank came from ARB with 4 threaded mounting holes.
Can u send the link to that battery tray?
Links to all the parts used in the rear? Connectors, valves, brackets, etc
I agree...
Can you list the part descriptions or brand of the tank?
Wouldn’t by chance to have a link to the air hose you used to get from the front to the back would ya?
It was a Flexzilla HFZ1450YW2 (1/4" diamater x 50' length). You can find it on Amazon at: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R8LH3E
Flexzilla's product page is here: www.flexzilla.com/air/air-hose/
I had somewhere between 10 and 20 feet leftover.
Can you say what you did on the front cover stud? Did you have to mod it a little for fitment? I see it’s shorter than the rear.
Ah! I completely forgot to mention that both here and in my write-up. I needed a 6" or 4" j-hook tie down, but as far as I could tell, nobody makes those. So I bought a correct-length "eye bolt" from a hardware store and cut out a portion of its eye to make a short j-hook. It's unfortunately a different size nut than the back post.
The j-hooks are necessary because they offset the threaded post from the hole a little bit. In order to fit the ARB compressor, the front j-hook post had to fit right in the split on the metal cover of the compressor which didn't line up exactly with the hole on the battery tray. Putting a j-hook there caused the threaded post to line up perfectly (you can see the hole on the battery tray is to the left of the actual threaded post). I did have to trim the cover on the ARB compressor a little bit to allow clearance for the post.
You can see that the orange tie-down on top of the compressor is not aligned perfectly with the silver sticker on top of the ARB compressor; this is because the back post goes right into the hole on the battery tray (it's just the threaded rod that came with the battery tray) while the front post is offset because it's my homemade j-hook, and therefore offset. If I really enjoyed cutting small curvy steel with a dremel, I could have cut a 2nd post like the front, and used it on the back so that everything would visually align. I may go back and do that eventually... I also chose not to cut the back post down shorter, as cutting threaded rods tends to make it hard to get nuts on or off the end you cut unless you spend extra time fixing up the threads.
Hi how many holes you drill into the crossbar to install the air tank?
Zero!
There were four holes already in the underside of the body that I was able to use.
If you mean the aluminum bars that I added, I only had to drill 4 holes in those since the air tank came from ARB with 4 threaded mounting holes.
"Aw it sounds so sad." Ha!