How to replace the horn/buzzer in your Lionel diesel locomotive
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Some postwar Lionel diesels came with working "horns". They are mechanical buzzers powered by a 1.5V D battery. There are a lot of them that have quit, or the battery compartment has been rotted out due to the battery being left in. As long as the RELAY is intact I have a solid solution that swaps out the original buzzer for a new more reliable one. They may not sound the same, but close enough to satisfy this operator.
Thanks for watching. Help support the channel for as little as a $5 per month / postwarguy
Here are 2 links for the mechanical buzzer. The first link is exactly what is seen in this video.
Canadian Mechanical Buzzer Link www.maddison.c...
American Mechanical Buzzer Link: www.wholesales...
Cool idea, but the Train Tender sells repro horns for 20 dollars US. They are cheaper, have the bracket and operate at 1.5 just like the originals.
Thanks for watching! Thats great to know, and thanks for sharing that with the community. For my loco, Train Tender doesn't carry the battery/relay bracket, they don't carry the relay either, so I would still have to source and buy those. Not hard but adding to the cost. Also the shipping to Canada. What I put together here still worked out cheaper for me in Canada.
I wish we had better affordable access to postwar parts in Canada.
Great video .thinking outside of the box always works . these trains are made to be run not sitting on a shelf . I habe a 2338 I'm working on now . the frame was badly rusted in side and out . I removed what I could from the frame .sanded of the rust and hand painted two coats of rustoliun black paint .cleaned the entire train trucks and motor after watching your videos. Waiting for a ground spacer for the truck. thanks for your help and guidance with your widoes.b
the best part about it is that, it doesn’t slow down the power of locomotive when you blow the horn
Thats right! And since I posted this I have been running a lot and that horn is still working great! I may eventually get the parts to try to draw all the power from the track and eliminate the battery all together.
Another super helpful video, thank you again Warren for sharing.
Nice work!!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching Joseph!
Nice job.
Interesting piece, thank you, why not fix the buzzer in place with silicon sealant? It’s non toxic and would work well, 2350 is really not a diesel but I see why you used that in the description 😁
finding parts is even tougher over here in the UK
If I was doing a restoration where I needed to keep the original in tact I might do that. Those buzzers are usually in bad shape or rough to begin with and will fail. I have done many repairs on a single buzzer that I just decided its a waste of time and to swap it out.
Nice job! Can you tell me where you got you new horn?
Hey Steve, thanks for watching. In the description if you hit "see more", I put a proper link to all the components I bought in the video. The horn is one of them.
Hi Warren, could you get the old bracket off and epoxy it to the new horn? Just a thought. Thanks for another great video. Bill
I tried a configuration using the original bracket but It didn't work out. The best I can see due to limited space is to make more of a "cradle" for the horn to sit in. When I get some time I'll play around with that and of course, make a video.
👍
Amazing job
have a postwar New York Central F3 train from 1953. The horn keeps getting stuck and the pitch is always getting low and high. Is there a way to solve this issue to get it back to its original state? Im using modern day tracks with a power box. Should I use the original postwar track and controller? I dont know that to do. Also what type of beautiful postwar steam engine is that? I love the whistle. I would love to get my own myself. Thank you
Modern track or original tube track doesnt matter. Old or modern transformer doesnt matter either. I found when the horns haven't been used in a while, they get like that or stop working completely.
I have had to work on many to bring them back around. I have had to take some completely apart to remove any heavy dirt and to clean off corrosion to allow the electrical current to pass through better. I have also moved the adjustment screw on the back in and out while running horn to free things up a bit more.
Bottom line is: the original horns are not reliable. Most times, you are lucky if they work at all.
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 Thank you for the help. I appreciate it. Its worth to mention its doesn’t seem the horn is bad on mine. Its the relay thingy that goes up and down. It gets stuck alot, which means the horn just goes on forever until I have to take the battery out and try again. I tried WD-40 but nothing. I will try to use the train more often though if that will lower the chance of the problem. Thank you so much
@@Steeldune Oh, if its the relay there a few things to look for. Make sure its properly grounded, the contacts are clean. WD40 isn't the best, get a piece of very fine sand paper in between the contacts and a couple swipes will remove any dirt. Also, if the contacts have been bent and are always touching, GENTLY bend back the bottom one. Not much, the actual spacing is about the thickness of a business card.
you have done that before and it works?
What’s the decibel would you say the new horn is that you used?
I couldn't even guess, but its loud enough that when my wife is upstairs, she hears it clearly.
If "pissed off wife" is a decibel level, then that's my answer
HI WARREN !
Hey Ray! Thanks for watching! I enjoyed your vid with the orange prewar loco set. Great set for $40!