@@shinesanthosh Hi, I think Andy will be doing a video on the setup, But basically the parts I used are a Raspberry Pi 3B+, A USB TO TTL SERIAL UART RS232 ADAPTOR (PL2303) and a JST PH 4-PIN MALE HEADER CABLE. I bought these from CORE Electronics in Australia, but I imagine a search will find them available elsewhere.
Andy, you are “inviting” us into your garage, so we have a responsibility to respect you and your space. Just as you would physically eject someone being disrespectful in your home it should be no different with an online community. Your house, your rules, and if people don’t like that they can leave! Thanks for sharing your experiences here, and clearly that sharing is working both ways - how a good community should be. Stay safe.
You are absolutely right. There is no need for rudeness, aggression or anything that is not polite exchange. I feel you are a sincere guy and any mistakes are also a useful happening upon which to capitalise a learning experience. My area of interest is mostly marine off the grid, but I find much of interest in what you do. Keep it up. Don’t let other people’s load get you down! Be well.
"Stay charged, stay safe... Be nice!" Love that quote at the end of your video!! It's now your new tagline 😁 What an awesome channel you have created!!!
My wife and i have never missed a video since you have had like 50 viewers. I have and akways will help anyone with things in a fun and helpful way. Thank you for your great contributation in this community.
I love all your videos. I'm an amateur as well and love your in depth explanation. Most videos are too short and assume everyone has the same knowledge as the poster. I also love that you show your failures! I'm sure it will save me time in the future.
AC is self extinguishing because the voltage is traveling thru zero 100 times per second. Once an arc is established with DC it behaves like an arc welder and will travel along a cable until such time the arc can't be sustained.
Hi Andy, thank you for taking the time for this video and adress abusive behaviour online and in life in general. Keep your channel going, we learn so much from you and the solar community! I made a solar install on my camper and would not have been able without the community. "Stay charged, stay safe... Be nice!"
I had the same problem with a Magic Series Solar charge controller. Work four days then locks up disconnect overnight hook up work a day and a half lock up no power :( so I guess it’s not Victron having the same problem other MPPT products as well. I think it’s better with a fan internal MPPT charge controller with a temperature sensor so it comes on and off. Anyways like your videos you put your heart and soul into it great information like other TH-cam creators who love this stuff lol.
Sorry to here you were getting such negative comments towards you and your followers. There is negativity everywhere but this channel is so positive and entertaining for us. Ban the N.N.N's Nasty Noisy Negatives and carry on regardless, have a green day, love you HAPPY ST PATRICK'S DAY to everyone.
Hi Andy, I think I have watched all your videos up until now and always have a chuckle (especially the frogs) and really enjoy them. In fact, they are so inspiring to the extent that I am going to upgrade my new caravan with some of this lithium stuff! Keep those videos coming!
I generally enjoy the comments. However, Andy, the mere mention of your action regarding banning 2 people set off a string of comments which deal with 'niceness', 'kindness', etc and really haven't much to do with the topic. Please, if you do ban more, don't mention it. I like to be able to read comments about tech issues. Thanks. I recently purchased the Victron 150/35 myself and haven't put it to the test. My batteries are topped off and there's been no load applied since installation of the Victron. I really appreciate the head-up and will keep my eye on this charge controller to make sure that I don't have to deal with similar issues. The tests you do are generally sound and you seem to take all the possibilities into account with each move. I really enjoy that facet of your thinking. The lengths you go to in order to prove or disprove an idea are wonderful. And it certainly saves us money by not having to do many of these ourselves. Really appreciate.
Small suggestion: do a temperature log of the cabinet. My inverter can raise the temperature of a much bigger room (like 3 cubic meters) while in use (even at low loads) by a few degrees. Because there is no ventilation to this room, when you open the door and the inverter has been on for a while, the difference in temperature is very noticeable. Very happy to see that you have got the rpi. Venus is quite nice.
Yes, thought the cabinet would be a problem, when you first put it up! I think the metal cabinet, without ventilation maybe the cause, as the inverter gets hot, and blows out hot air. You may also risk blowing up the Phoenix Inverter. Some vent slots in the top, and bottom would help
@@michaelbouckley4455 My thoughts exactly. Andy says at 18:00 that the controller never got above 44 degrees. What if all the firmware update did was change what the temperature sensor is reporting? Could the update have made it MORE accurate? 🤔
You should add a couple fans for your enclosure. There is very little heat conducting through the steel or galvanized wall behind. For example inverter powering 2000w x 85% efficient is 300W wasted. That is like 3 100w bulbs running inside a box.
Interesting timing on the video! I just finished bringing my Raspberry Pi on line today! I wanted to post a screen shot from my iPhone but could not figure out how to attach the picture to the post. It was a good project. Enjoy!
Hi, I have a small 1000w solar system and so far I had no problem with my tracer an controller (4210 it goes only to 100v solar input, but there are other models). Keep up the good work...
Andy you and your Frog have a awesome channel 😀! I am a beginning with 1200w solar panels and Epever controller. I really wish that I could take your controller numbers and apply them to the Epever controller. I don't understand your terminology. You have a great channel.
I'm glad I wasn't those accounts. But I was one of those other schmucks. I couldn't understand why you were polishing those terminals. I understand a quick-sand to deburr or smooth the surface... But no need to make a mirror out of them. :D. Thanks for the videos!
Hi, im looking at you inverter box, and i think you should add some 12V fans to extract hot air. When you close the cabinet you are going to have heat issues. try to add a thermostat to the fans that will start fans when a determined temp is reached. Dont forget to add some intake for fresh air also.
Well spoken Andy! - And for your amusement: actually i sell some solar stuff on ebay - yesterday someone from near cologne (100km away)never seen before came and pick up some stuff, we talked a bit - and then he said " i learned a lot from youtube, for example there is a fanatic German guy in Australia and..." I interupt: "Off Grid Garage!" - He: "YES!!"😳😎😍
Take a look at the Midnite Solar Classic. I have been running the Classic 150 for over 10 years with nary a problem. It does not have specific Lithium battery settings, but there is a lot of information about how to set it up for that.
That's a bummer to hear about the Victron... I have an EPEver that does the same thing and folks have recommended that I spend the big bucks on a Victron to get away from those issues... So much for that theory.
One other possible solution for the “short studs” on the inverter, especially if people don’t have the room for busbars, would be to use a thread reducing insert. These are made from stainless steel and have an M8 internal thread (to go onto the inverter studs) but they also have an M12 external thread. They come in various lengths, my local marine chandlers has some 25mm long. You would need to change the ring connectors on the various cables for ones with bigger holes, but the longer thread available would offer more room for stacking cables.
I was going to suggest cutting some busbars in half, drilling a hole through the end that was cut (basically making "stubby" busbars), and stacking them. But I think I like your idea better.
I had a Victron MPPT 150/85 for 2 years that I used with zero issues. After that I upgraded to a MPPT 250/85 because I wanted to re-wire my panels into a higher voltage series configuration. That MPPT 250/85 has been running 2 years as well without a single issue. Is this issue limited to the 150/35 model? I hope Victron takes care of the issue for you. The few times I've had issues with Victron equipment they've taken care of it very quickly. If they offer you an upgrade to the 150/45, just take it. It's overkill, but who cares? if you ever upgrade your solar array you'll have the excess capacity and be ready.
Love Raspberry PI! Some of my favorite computer! I'm looking into using my Pi 2 for my camera system for my wife and I's RV we are working on to live in fulltime.
I've watched all of your videos to date (about solar anyway) and I haven't heard you say "Bob's your uncle" even once. I thought that was a standard saying in Australia... Great video series. I was going to suggest a Raspberry Pie, to control your shunt and your charge controller, and even the temperature in your housing for a fan operation. I like the circuit breakers and the buss bar idea. I am curious to see what is going on with the Victron controller. I am glad I didn't run out an order one. I will stick with my 2 40A Epever controllers for now.
Reading about their Victron controllers they state: Battery Life: intelligent battery management When a solar charge controller is not able to recharge the battery to its full capacity within one day, the result is often that the battery will continually be cycled between a ‘partially charged’ state and the ‘end of discharge’ state. This mode of operation (no regular full recharge) will destroy a lead-acid battery within weeks or months. The Battery Life algorithm will monitor the state of charge of the battery and, if needed, day by day slightly increase the load disconnect level
Hi Andy, I'm looking into building my own Energy Storage System for my house and you channel is actually a very great place to learn and have some fun as well while watching all your mishaps. I know this video is quite old now and probably you have figured it out already but, I noticed that the Victron Charge controller is connected to two paralleled solar panel strings. Maybe that's the cause of the problem? I think the charge controller is optimised for one serial string usage, rather than two parallel ones? The thing with MPPT is that it tracks the max power point and applies load to the panels appropriately. In your config, the parallel connection can mess with the MPPT algorithm, at least that's what I think:). Let me know if this is useful in any way:)
Ánimo desde España estas haciendo un trabajo fantástico. Gracias por tu trabajo. (Courage from Spain you are doing a fantastic job. Thank you for your work.)
I agree with you, there is a difference between offering advice, and or constructive criticism, and then there is being plain rude and or abusive, I'm glad that you are having an open discussion on this, because like you said most of your community is not toxic :) I enjoy your video's and hope to continue with you on your journey! Thanks again for doing what you do!
Very interesting I already have a raspberry pi 4 that I'm not currently using for anything and I'm wanting this functionality can't wait for the videos
Oh no! The kids are miss behaving in the classroom. They need some spanking. Bus bar are okay, I use Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 thread (Red & Black Set) Stainless Steel Stud instead. Thank you for the information. I hope the victron 250/60a I got won't had the same problem.
Thank you your channel is very interesting as I have been interested ever since I worked on DC for communication, I agree some people are extremely rude and sulcastic I am like you always try to help anyone if my input helps I am happy if it does not then just discard it try something else
Nice! I too have a passion for solar/battery/IT! I'm sorry to hear that a few baddie trolls made rude negative comments. We enjoy your non commercial videos! 🙂
Don't let the haters get to you man (or to us). I love your efforts & have learned a few things. If you were remotely nearby I'd offer to stop by & bring you a few beers!
Hi Andy, great video I have the same problem with my 100/50 Victron controller, is there any new update to how you fixed it? and what size cable did you use from your panel to your controller Thanks Wes.
The issue was fixed with the next software update of the controller. I used 16mm cable from the solar combiner box to the MPPTs connecting 2kW of solar.
I love your sense of humour, and the little clips, out takes of your vids excellent. Completely support your comments about banning others supporting each other. Right turning to the Raspberry PI, I followed the instructions on the victron VRM site, it’s excellent, I have my BMV, Mppt, and Orion, even my inverter reports on it, using the VE direct usb cables, ps doesn’t work with VE Bluetooth, just need a Pi with wireless or direct RJ45.
15:37 Exactly why companies should not block flashing to older firmware. Back in the day, you could "downgrade" most devices to re-enable features you were using (or at least reset to factory settings then choose which version you need) so you could at least get by. The absolute worst are the companies who force-feed updates (Microsoft has drafted the entire planet into being beta-testers, but I digress).
It’s fun to build solar systems. At the end of the day I do prefer the Solark though. Just wire it up and it works. Charge controllers, inverters, shunt, breakers, built in monitoring, it’s expensive but it works and saves a lot of headache.
Andy, I’m glad to see you don’t let the grumpy crazy nasty folks get you down. I was in Germany from time to time in the 1970s when I was in the US Navy. I learned a very popular phrase at that time in German and English it basically translated to “don’t let the bastards get you down”. I think that philosophy still applies.
It’s so pathetic, but there are so many horrible mean people. Most of us don’t have time for that kind of nonsense. And yes, it’s better to just block them permanently.
Hi David. I'm thinking to buy 2x 150/35 controllers for my project. How yours holding up so far ? any issues with this model ? or should I go with 150/45 instead ?
I treat everyone how I want to be treated, I believe if everyone did the same the world would be a slightly better place to live. Some people are just miserable and take their hate out on others. Those people will eventually be humbled by the giant hammer that is life. Keep the positivity going your doing good in the world
What is the open-circuit voltage of your solar panel system (as-per the panel manufacturer, not measured)? I assume you've already checked that, but it doesn't hurt to make sure. Hmm. It might make sense to put a temperature sensor in the cabinet to see how hot things get in there under operation. That 130V is really suspect, especially considering that the maximum input voltage to the charge controller is only 150V. Either its backfeeding from the battery system, or there is a common-mode fault of some sort (voltage to ground or voltage to neutral). Definitely check for issues in that area, there aren't many places that 130V can come from. But yah... once you exhaust those possibilities, the only thing left is firmware or a hardware fault. -Matt
Great message and you did the right thing! I have MPP LV6548 inverters (The new ones) I also have been messing with the raspberry pi. I want to use it, grafana and influx db to have awesome graphical monitoring with my system. I haven't figured it out yet.. ahh, the next mystery! LOL. Hang in there, and thanks for all you do. DanF (DIYsolarpower forum)
You have had the charge controller running for a while and all has been fine. 2 weeks ago you fitted an inverter and now there is a problem. Assuming you have not updated the charge controller software in this time then it would pay to test with the inverter outside the enclosure, or better still try with the old inverter if you still have it. Or have you already done this...
My EpSolar 40A MPPT stopped charging occasionally... After consulting EpSolar fixed my mistake in LiFePO4 settings and now it works great, including stopping charging below freezing... This observed problem in 150/30 MPPT likely doesn't resolve from firmware upgrade... per your measurements its more likely internal current leak messing up whole charging state machine
HOWdy O-G-G, I too am concerned with the defective VICTRON Charge Controller I was ready to purchase ALL 100% VICTRON items / Units for my Ground-Mount array Now I have concerns about VICTRON & will be following to see if VICTRON makes GOOD on what appears to be a defective device Thanks COOP ...
Thanks Dave. They have fixed the problem with a software update a few weeks later. I now have all my gear from Victron and it is flawless. The OTA software updates not only fix problems but also introduce new features, just like in a Tesla 😉
I'm using the same 150/35 Victron smart charge controller and have had no issues. I even MAX is out with 2KW of solar on a 24v system. I'm guessing you'll be fine with the replacement.
Looking forward to follow your new project with Raspberry Pi. I've just installed and connected that on my work bench. Next mission for me is to run Raspberry Pi with VRM integration and 4G internet connection on 12 volt to be able to move it to my boat. I'm very curious what you are going to do with all USB to TTL Serial Cables.
I got a 150/35 too and the actual firmware- but didnt get any faults here. It all works fine. What i am interested in is- obviously you are from germany. Maybe you want to do a video about why you moved to australia? Is there any way to support you by donations to help you creating those great contents ?
I also have the 150/35, but the last firmware upgrade went a bit less smoothly than before, it faltered for a moment and then everything worked again, the bulk / absorption / float leds previously burned constantly, and after the last firmware update they flash around the 2.5 seconds, everything else works fine and maybe I imagine that, but it makes me doubt now ..
I'm assembling a system using big flat LiPO packs. They have a plated copper Neg tab and an aluminum Pos tab. The aluminum tab has so much oxide on it I can't even get my continuity beeper to beep. It's even clean and shiny. So..... I'm in the R&D phase. Aluminum is weird stuff. I like the carbon contact paste idea. I think that is going to work good for you. Maybe me too. :)
That fault is very weird, if you disconnect the fuses there should be no voltage on the PV input if there's voltage it means it's generating voltage in reverse for some reason, getting power from the battery and generating a voltage on the PV side. I don't know if it was creating any significant amperage on those terminals but if it was it could have damaged the solar panels probably. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I think a problem with Victron and the interweb is they have gone the route of computer operating systems. Because they now have the ability to update firmware over the interweb the customer can now be used as part of product testing and, when it fails, they simply release another version to correct it and probably introduce new errors ready for fixing in the next update. We are effectively being sold equipment that is not suitable for purpose. The first solution to any fault now is “Are you running the latest firmware?” I think that products should work out of the box and no firmware update should be needed. The excuse used is that it ‘enables us to introduce new features for free’. Now I buy something for the features it has not for what it might have in the future. I feel that this excuse is used as a cover for using us as product testing monkeys. This is partly why I have kept out of the Almighty Blue infrastructure, along with the fact I can’t afford it, and developed my own linking together / remote monitoring system using a Raspberry pi that wirelessly communicates with all the sensors and switches. It means I retain full control over everything and can use equipment from any manufacturer I please. I also don’t need a third party portal as all the data and settings are available direct to the unit over the interweb. Total cost maybe £75 including the current sensors.
I stress my Smart Victron 100/20 with 3x100w panels on a 12v system - means often max 20A output for hours - in a 23C Celsius room without extra cooling: until now nothing unusual. Yes it gets warm... bot no issue.
My only criticism is the box your inverter and CC are in needs better ventilation. My Victron Quattro 8 Kva can heat my whole shed when under a good load.
I'll have quite a few Leaf batteries spare after my first project is completed. I'm inspired to build an off-grid Monty Python inspired argument room next to my pig yards, complete with solar powered rotating blades and conveyor belt. Would it be wrong to leave some old Lifepo4 cells inside with heavily corroded terminals?
Many years ago I tried to develop my own MPPT regulator, using synchronous switching. I found the damn design could run in reverse, as a boost regulator, from battery back to solar input. Disconnect the solar, still have 18V (or whatever) sitting there. The fundamental problem being the MOSFETS used as "ideal diodes" were not actually diodes once switched on, and thus back feeding could occur! After a few spectacular MOSFET explosions I gave up and just went and bought one! It does sound like perhaps the 100/35 hardware is of the synchronous topology and prone to do this. Perhaps the software also detects it cannot seem to manage the fake solar input and goes off to Noddy Land. Who knows, but the fundamental electronics could be the cause.
Well, your multimeter does agree with the PPT that there is 130Vdc on the PPT input when the solar panels are isolated after the PPT has locked up. The question is where is it coming from. Next time it happen, you may want to try connecting a load of some sort across the PPT's input to see if you might just be reading the input capacitor voltage after it quit working. If the input voltage comes back up after removing the load, whatever made it lock up is also causing it to boost in reverse.
13:57 The Volt meter does not lie. I noticed the same - in the beginning of the video it sounds like a software problem - "Look here, the app on the smartphone shows 130 Volts, although I have updated to the last version of the firmware". But when you measure the voltage, the reading really IS 130-ish Volts. That means that the unit is broke, since the only power source connected is the battery bank. And somehow the battery voltage gets to the input. I guess your battery bank is 48 volts, so the voltage is first ramped up and then fed to the inputs. Sounds like a pretty intricate fault. I would say that some semiconductor/s inside has failed.
@@inber Yes, he's running 48V. If the PPT uses software-controlled FETs to implement synchronous rectification in its buck-boost converter, it would be possible for the operating sequence to change in a way that would reverse power flow. There may also be a logic nugget protecting FETs against imminent destruction in case of software glitches. The hardware may very well be perfectly intact.
Hi Andy Enjoyed your video today, I and probably all your other subscribers picked up on your previous posting that your feelings were hurt. You’re a straight up guy, sharing your solar build with a varied bunch of subscribers, some with little knowledge and some with vast solar backgrounds. Unfortunately, there’s always going to be a few that have to criticize and be negative. You’re hanging yourself out there for the enjoyment of us all, and I think it’s great that you can block those as_____s. I have a question for you, what’s happening with your “relay type bms” I’m assuming there’s an upcoming video to answer all the problems you were having with it.
Your doing good staying buzzy and spending all your money but having fun and I like watching so keep on spending staying buzzy and having fun its good for ya and ya are getting there 🤓👍🇺🇸
Andy, well said. But we do know there are people like that, rude and selfish. You keep doing the good work. Too bad stupidity does not give one headaches. However, would be hard to vaccinate people in the head, wouldn’t be? Cheers, Raz
Thanks for the Shout Out Andy, more than happy to share what I have learned, just like you are sharing your knowledge and experiences on this channel.
Thanks for your help and support Jason!
Hey could you please share the links
@@shinesanthosh Hi, I think Andy will be doing a video on the setup, But basically the parts I used are a Raspberry Pi 3B+, A USB TO TTL SERIAL UART RS232 ADAPTOR (PL2303) and a JST PH 4-PIN MALE HEADER CABLE. I bought these from CORE Electronics in Australia, but I imagine a search will find them available elsewhere.
Andy, you are “inviting” us into your garage, so we have a responsibility to respect you and your space. Just as you would physically eject someone being disrespectful in your home it should be no different with an online community. Your house, your rules, and if people don’t like that they can leave!
Thanks for sharing your experiences here, and clearly that sharing is working both ways - how a good community should be. Stay safe.
i subed because you have the balls say enough is enough. Being old school i can respect that.
Agreed no need for rudeness, keep making the great videos.
But its entertaining :(
You are absolutely right.
There is no need for rudeness, aggression or anything that is not polite exchange.
I feel you are a sincere guy and any mistakes are also a useful happening upon which to capitalise a learning experience.
My area of interest is mostly marine off the grid, but I find much of interest in what you do.
Keep it up.
Don’t let other people’s load get you down!
Be well.
I learn much more from my mistakes. 😬
"Stay charged, stay safe... Be nice!" Love that quote at the end of your video!! It's now your new tagline 😁 What an awesome channel you have created!!!
My wife and i have never missed a video since you have had like 50 viewers. I have and akways will help anyone with things in a fun and helpful way. Thank you for your great contributation in this community.
I love all your videos. I'm an amateur as well and love your in depth explanation. Most videos are too short and assume everyone has the same knowledge as the poster. I also love that you show your failures! I'm sure it will save me time in the future.
Too short? I'm usually a bit over the 20min mark which is fairly long. What kind of stuff would you like to see more?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia meant that other people who post videos on how to go solar or set up a batteries have videos that are too short. Not yours.
AC is self extinguishing because the voltage is traveling thru zero 100 times per second. Once an arc is established with DC it behaves like an arc welder and will travel along a cable until such time the arc can't be sustained.
Thank you for doing your best to keep a non threatening environment on your channel. haha love how enthusiastic you are. I can't wait for this project
“Life is too short. Just be nice!” Great advice!
Could you share out all the links for the Raspberry Pi setup and parts you purchased? This sounds super interesting!
Ditto
Hi Andy, thank you for taking the time for this video and adress abusive behaviour online and in life in general. Keep your channel going, we learn so much from you and the solar community! I made a solar install on my camper and would not have been able without the community. "Stay charged, stay safe... Be nice!"
I had the same problem with a Magic Series Solar charge controller. Work four days then locks up disconnect overnight hook up work a day and a half lock up no power :( so I guess it’s not Victron having the same problem other MPPT products as well. I think it’s better with a fan internal MPPT charge controller with a temperature sensor so it comes on and off.
Anyways like your videos you put your heart and soul into it great information like other TH-cam creators who love this stuff lol.
Sorry to here you were getting such negative comments towards you and your followers. There is negativity everywhere but this channel is so positive and entertaining for us. Ban the N.N.N's Nasty Noisy Negatives and carry on regardless, have a green day, love you HAPPY ST PATRICK'S DAY to everyone.
Hi Andy, I think I have watched all your videos up until now and always have a chuckle (especially the frogs) and really enjoy them. In fact, they are so inspiring to the extent that I am going to upgrade my new caravan with some of this lithium stuff! Keep those videos coming!
Hello from America it’s James don’t worry about the rude people keep your head up you are doing very good work and we love you for it stay safe
I generally enjoy the comments. However, Andy, the mere mention of your action regarding banning 2 people set off a string of comments which deal with 'niceness', 'kindness', etc and really haven't much to do with the topic. Please, if you do ban more, don't mention it. I like to be able to read comments about tech issues. Thanks.
I recently purchased the Victron 150/35 myself and haven't put it to the test. My batteries are topped off and there's been no load applied since installation of the Victron. I really appreciate the head-up and will keep my eye on this charge controller to make sure that I don't have to deal with similar issues.
The tests you do are generally sound and you seem to take all the possibilities into account with each move. I really enjoy that facet of your thinking. The lengths you go to in order to prove or disprove an idea are wonderful. And it certainly saves us money by not having to do many of these ourselves. Really appreciate.
I had a Victron 100/50 that did the same thing. My dealer sent me a new one
Small suggestion: do a temperature log of the cabinet.
My inverter can raise the temperature of a much bigger room (like 3 cubic meters) while in use (even at low loads) by a few degrees. Because there is no ventilation to this room, when you open the door and the inverter has been on for a while, the difference in temperature is very noticeable.
Very happy to see that you have got the rpi. Venus is quite nice.
Yes, thought the cabinet would be a problem, when you first put it up! I think the metal cabinet, without ventilation maybe the cause, as the inverter gets hot, and blows out hot air. You may also risk blowing up the Phoenix Inverter. Some vent slots in the top, and bottom would help
@@michaelbouckley4455 My thoughts exactly. Andy says at 18:00 that the controller never got above 44 degrees. What if all the firmware update did was change what the temperature sensor is reporting? Could the update have made it MORE accurate? 🤔
It’s getting hot!
Cooling fan solves it.
So it is getting hot and stops working.
I think you know the answer.
You should add a couple fans for your enclosure. There is very little heat conducting through the steel or galvanized wall behind. For example inverter powering 2000w x 85% efficient is 300W wasted. That is like 3 100w bulbs running inside a box.
Interesting timing on the video! I just finished bringing my Raspberry Pi on line today! I wanted to post a screen shot from my iPhone but could not figure out how to attach the picture to the post. It was a good project. Enjoy!
Hi, I have a small 1000w solar system and so far I had no problem with my tracer an controller (4210 it goes only to 100v solar input, but there are other models). Keep up the good work...
Andy you and your Frog have a awesome channel 😀!
I am a beginning with 1200w solar panels and Epever controller.
I really wish that I could take your controller numbers and apply them to the Epever controller.
I don't understand your terminology.
You have a great channel.
Love your passion. You may actually be my favorite TH-camr. (Im married to a German so I appreciate the unfiltered griping.) :-)
What happened with the battery balancing? Did polishing help? I was really wondering how you managed to fix that cell over voltage problem.
I'm glad I wasn't those accounts. But I was one of those other schmucks. I couldn't understand why you were polishing those terminals. I understand a quick-sand to deburr or smooth the surface... But no need to make a mirror out of them. :D.
Thanks for the videos!
Hi, im looking at you inverter box, and i think you should add some 12V fans to extract hot air. When you close the cabinet you are going to have heat issues. try to add a thermostat to the fans that will start fans when a determined temp is reached. Dont forget to add some intake for fresh air also.
Well spoken Andy! - And for your amusement: actually i sell some solar stuff on ebay - yesterday someone from near cologne (100km away)never seen before came and pick up some stuff, we talked a bit - and then he said " i learned a lot from youtube, for example there is a fanatic German guy in Australia and..." I interupt: "Off Grid Garage!" - He: "YES!!"😳😎😍
Well said Andy! Good luck with getting the charge controller sorted.
Bans are always painful for those that use the ban tool lightly, correctly, rather than as a means of just silencing things they don't want to hear.
I stand by your opinion, hope Victron fixes the issue.
I have one of these new in the box not yet used. I need to look for the reciept in case this happens to me.
I like some of your unusual camera angles.
Take a look at the Midnite Solar Classic. I have been running the Classic 150 for over 10 years with nary a problem. It does not have specific Lithium battery settings, but there is a lot of information about how to set it up for that.
That's a bummer to hear about the Victron... I have an EPEver that does the same thing and folks have recommended that I spend the big bucks on a Victron to get away from those issues... So much for that theory.
A software update fixed it a few weeks later. It was a known issue at Victron and they were already working on a solution through an OTA update.
One other possible solution for the “short studs” on the inverter, especially if people don’t have the room for busbars, would be to use a thread reducing insert. These are made from stainless steel and have an M8 internal thread (to go onto the inverter studs) but they also have an M12 external thread. They come in various lengths, my local marine chandlers has some 25mm long. You would need to change the ring connectors on the various cables for ones with bigger holes, but the longer thread available would offer more room for stacking cables.
I was going to suggest cutting some busbars in half, drilling a hole through the end that was cut (basically making "stubby" busbars), and stacking them. But I think I like your idea better.
I had a Victron MPPT 150/85 for 2 years that I used with zero issues. After that I upgraded to a MPPT 250/85 because I wanted to re-wire my panels into a higher voltage series configuration. That MPPT 250/85 has been running 2 years as well without a single issue.
Is this issue limited to the 150/35 model?
I hope Victron takes care of the issue for you. The few times I've had issues with Victron equipment they've taken care of it very quickly.
If they offer you an upgrade to the 150/45, just take it. It's overkill, but who cares? if you ever upgrade your solar array you'll have the excess capacity and be ready.
Love Raspberry PI! Some of my favorite computer! I'm looking into using my Pi 2 for my camera system for my wife and I's RV we are working on to live in fulltime.
I've watched all of your videos to date (about solar anyway) and I haven't heard you say "Bob's your uncle" even once. I thought that was a standard saying in Australia... Great video series. I was going to suggest a Raspberry Pie, to control your shunt and your charge controller, and even the temperature in your housing for a fan operation. I like the circuit breakers and the buss bar idea. I am curious to see what is going on with the Victron controller. I am glad I didn't run out an order one. I will stick with my 2 40A Epever controllers for now.
Hi Andy, is there any update on the QUCC BMS issue? Did you get a new one, when can we see the inside of the relay?
They have sent a new one but it's still on the way...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thanks for the update!
Reading about their Victron controllers they state: Battery Life: intelligent battery management
When a solar charge controller is not able to recharge the battery to its full capacity within one day, the result is often that the battery will continually be cycled between a ‘partially charged’ state and the ‘end of discharge’ state. This mode of operation (no regular full recharge) will destroy a lead-acid battery within weeks or months. The Battery Life algorithm will monitor the state of charge of the battery and, if needed, day by day slightly increase the load disconnect level
Hi Andy, I'm looking into building my own Energy Storage System for my house and you channel is actually a very great place to learn and have some fun as well while watching all your mishaps. I know this video is quite old now and probably you have figured it out already but, I noticed that the Victron Charge controller is connected to two paralleled solar panel strings. Maybe that's the cause of the problem? I think the charge controller is optimised for one serial string usage, rather than two parallel ones? The thing with MPPT is that it tracks the max power point and applies load to the panels appropriately. In your config, the parallel connection can mess with the MPPT algorithm, at least that's what I think:). Let me know if this is useful in any way:)
Thank you for keeping things constructive.
Ánimo desde España estas haciendo un trabajo fantástico. Gracias por tu trabajo. (Courage from Spain you are doing a fantastic job. Thank you for your work.)
You have a great channel! I had the same issue with a couple of subscribers and I cut them off. Keep up the great work and enjoy...
I agree with you, there is a difference between offering advice, and or constructive criticism, and then there is being plain rude and or abusive, I'm glad that you are having an open discussion on this, because like you said most of your community is not toxic :) I enjoy your video's and hope to continue with you on your journey! Thanks again for doing what you do!
Thank you very much, Patrick!
Very interesting I already have a raspberry pi 4 that I'm not currently using for anything and I'm wanting this functionality can't wait for the videos
When I put the Venus OS on my RPi 3, the 4 was not supported. It may have changed since then (summer 2020).
Oh no! The kids are miss behaving in the classroom. They need some spanking. Bus bar are okay, I use Power Junction Post Block 3/8 Lug X 16 thread (Red & Black Set) Stainless Steel Stud instead. Thank you for the information. I hope the victron 250/60a I got won't had the same problem.
Good one Andy - glad you said what you did at the beginning! 👍
Thank you your channel is very interesting as I have been interested ever since I worked on DC for communication, I agree some people are extremely rude and sulcastic I am like you always try to help anyone if my input helps I am happy if it does not then just discard it try something else
Nice DC breakers! I just got a double post one today too (between victron charge controller 100/50 and battery)! They are so cool!
Can't wait to see the R. Pi in operation, keep up the great info
Nice! I too have a passion for solar/battery/IT! I'm sorry to hear that a few baddie trolls made rude negative comments. We enjoy your non commercial videos! 🙂
Don't let the haters get to you man (or to us). I love your efforts & have learned a few things.
If you were remotely nearby I'd offer to stop by & bring you a few beers!
I got the 100/20 no problem works fine! In the caravan. It get hot as well. Over 40.
Hi Andy, great video I have the same problem with my 100/50 Victron controller, is there any new update to how you fixed it? and what size cable did you use from your panel to your controller Thanks Wes.
The issue was fixed with the next software update of the controller.
I used 16mm cable from the solar combiner box to the MPPTs connecting 2kW of solar.
I love your sense of humour, and the little clips, out takes of your vids excellent. Completely support your comments about banning others supporting each other. Right turning to the Raspberry PI, I followed the instructions on the victron VRM site, it’s excellent, I have my BMV, Mppt, and Orion, even my inverter reports on it, using the VE direct usb cables, ps doesn’t work with VE Bluetooth, just need a Pi with wireless or direct RJ45.
Oh forgot to say, you can access the victron kit off the VRM tab on the app as well 😀
15:37 Exactly why companies should not block flashing to older firmware. Back in the day, you could "downgrade" most devices to re-enable features you were using (or at least reset to factory settings then choose which version you need) so you could at least get by. The absolute worst are the companies who force-feed updates (Microsoft has drafted the entire planet into being beta-testers, but I digress).
It’s fun to build solar systems. At the end of the day I do prefer the Solark though. Just wire it up and it works. Charge controllers, inverters, shunt, breakers, built in monitoring, it’s expensive but it works and saves a lot of headache.
Andy, I’m glad to see you don’t let the grumpy crazy nasty folks get you down. I was in Germany from time to time in the 1970s when I was in the US Navy. I learned a very popular phrase at that time in German and English it basically translated to “don’t let the bastards get you down”. I think that philosophy still applies.
The phrase you seek is "Nil illigitimus carborundum". Your translation is correct.
It’s so pathetic, but there are so many horrible mean people. Most of us don’t have time for that kind of nonsense. And yes, it’s better to just block them permanently.
I literally just got 2x 150/35’s and have been wiring them up over the last two days. I really hope there isn’t a hardware issue.
Hi David. I'm thinking to buy 2x 150/35 controllers for my project. How yours holding up so far ? any issues with this model ? or should I go with 150/45 instead ?
I treat everyone how I want to be treated, I believe if everyone did the same the world would be a slightly better place to live. Some people are just miserable and take their hate out on others. Those people will eventually be humbled by the giant hammer that is life. Keep the positivity going your doing good in the world
What is the open-circuit voltage of your solar panel system (as-per the panel manufacturer, not measured)? I assume you've already checked that, but it doesn't hurt to make sure. Hmm. It might make sense to put a temperature sensor in the cabinet to see how hot things get in there under operation.
That 130V is really suspect, especially considering that the maximum input voltage to the charge controller is only 150V. Either its backfeeding from the battery system, or there is a common-mode fault of some sort (voltage to ground or voltage to neutral). Definitely check for issues in that area, there aren't many places that 130V can come from.
But yah... once you exhaust those possibilities, the only thing left is firmware or a hardware fault.
-Matt
Great message and you did the right thing! I have MPP LV6548 inverters (The new ones) I also have been messing with the raspberry pi. I want to use it, grafana and influx db to have awesome graphical monitoring with my system. I haven't figured it out yet.. ahh, the next mystery! LOL. Hang in there, and thanks for all you do. DanF (DIYsolarpower forum)
You have had the charge controller running for a while and all has been fine.
2 weeks ago you fitted an inverter and now there is a problem.
Assuming you have not updated the charge controller software in this time then it would pay to test with the inverter outside the enclosure, or better still try with the old inverter if you still have it.
Or have you already done this...
My EpSolar 40A MPPT stopped charging occasionally... After consulting EpSolar fixed my mistake in LiFePO4 settings and now it works great, including stopping charging below freezing...
This observed problem in 150/30 MPPT likely doesn't resolve from firmware upgrade... per your measurements its more likely internal current leak messing up whole charging state machine
I enjoy your style of presenting your videos. Very entertaining an funny
Do you think you are getting feed Bach from the battery's or inverter!
I do appreciate what you do.
your as entertaining as educational ! i love your videos !
Agree
One question. Are these new circuit breakers DC rated. Switching DC is quite different to switching AC.
Good question, I prefer the mnedc60rt with remote trip which supposedly won let the spark cause any damage.
HOWdy O-G-G,
I too am concerned with the defective VICTRON Charge Controller
I was ready to purchase ALL 100% VICTRON items / Units for my Ground-Mount array
Now I have concerns about VICTRON & will be following to see if VICTRON makes GOOD on what appears to be a defective device
Thanks
COOP
...
Thanks Dave. They have fixed the problem with a software update a few weeks later. I now have all my gear from Victron and it is flawless. The OTA software updates not only fix problems but also introduce new features, just like in a Tesla 😉
Love watching your videos
Use it as guide to build my system
I'm using the same 150/35 Victron smart charge controller and have had no issues. I even MAX is out with 2KW of solar on a 24v system. I'm guessing you'll be fine with the replacement.
Just over paneled? 1kw max at 28x35 isn't it
Looking forward to follow your new project with Raspberry Pi. I've just installed and connected that on my work bench. Next mission for me is to run Raspberry Pi with VRM integration and 4G internet connection on 12 volt to be able to move it to my boat.
I'm very curious what you are going to do with all USB to TTL Serial Cables.
I got a 150/35 too and the actual firmware- but didnt get any faults here. It all works fine.
What i am interested in is- obviously you are from germany. Maybe you want to do a video about why you moved to australia?
Is there any way to support you by donations to help you creating those great contents
?
I also have the 150/35, but the last firmware upgrade went a bit less smoothly than before, it faltered for a moment and then everything worked again, the bulk / absorption / float leds previously burned constantly, and after the last firmware update they flash around the 2.5 seconds, everything else works fine and maybe I imagine that, but it makes me doubt now ..
Wait how do you have 6k subs?? I would have thought youd be up to 100k with this content! definitely sharing
If your panels are producing 1300w and the battery voltage is 50v, then about 26amps into the battery.
Yeah, if they do... that's peak though.
I'm assembling a system using big flat LiPO packs. They have a plated copper Neg tab and an aluminum Pos tab. The aluminum tab has so much oxide on it I can't even get my continuity beeper to beep. It's even clean and shiny. So..... I'm in the R&D phase. Aluminum is weird stuff.
I like the carbon contact paste idea. I think that is going to work good for you. Maybe me too. :)
Way to go,nobody needs negative Nancy's,bringing us down.i would speak for all who watch your videos,we are all learning.keep the great work
That fault is very weird, if you disconnect the fuses there should be no voltage on the PV input if there's voltage it means it's generating voltage in reverse for some reason, getting power from the battery and generating a voltage on the PV side.
I don't know if it was creating any significant amperage on those terminals but if it was it could have damaged the solar panels probably.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Andi, you are 100% right, idiots have to be banned !!!!!
I think a problem with Victron and the interweb is they have gone the route of computer operating systems. Because they now have the ability to update firmware over the interweb the customer can now be used as part of product testing and, when it fails, they simply release another version to correct it and probably introduce new errors ready for fixing in the next update. We are effectively being sold equipment that is not suitable for purpose. The first solution to any fault now is “Are you running the latest firmware?” I think that products should work out of the box and no firmware update should be needed. The excuse used is that it ‘enables us to introduce new features for free’. Now I buy something for the features it has not for what it might have in the future. I feel that this excuse is used as a cover for using us as product testing monkeys. This is partly why I have kept out of the Almighty Blue infrastructure, along with the fact I can’t afford it, and developed my own linking together / remote monitoring system using a Raspberry pi that wirelessly communicates with all the sensors and switches. It means I retain full control over everything and can use equipment from any manufacturer I please. I also don’t need a third party portal as all the data and settings are available direct to the unit over the interweb. Total cost maybe £75 including the current sensors.
Some firmware is nothing more than Planned Obsolescence.
I stress my Smart Victron 100/20 with 3x100w panels on a 12v system - means often max 20A output for hours - in a 23C Celsius room without extra cooling: until now nothing unusual. Yes it gets warm... bot no issue.
Be nice (to victron) and Do not abuse (victron) :-)
My only criticism is the box your inverter and CC are in needs better ventilation.
My Victron Quattro 8 Kva can heat my whole shed when under a good load.
Yeah, I didn't see the logic in putting a cabinet inside a cabinet myself.
looking forward to your efforts to add a raspberry pi to your solution.
I'll have quite a few Leaf batteries spare after my first project is completed. I'm inspired to build an off-grid Monty Python inspired argument room next to my pig yards, complete with solar powered rotating blades and conveyor belt. Would it be wrong to leave some old Lifepo4 cells inside with heavily corroded terminals?
Thanks for this information
Many years ago I tried to develop my own MPPT regulator, using synchronous switching.
I found the damn design could run in reverse, as a boost regulator, from battery back to solar input.
Disconnect the solar, still have 18V (or whatever) sitting there.
The fundamental problem being the MOSFETS used as "ideal diodes" were not actually diodes once switched on, and thus back feeding could occur!
After a few spectacular MOSFET explosions I gave up and just went and bought one!
It does sound like perhaps the 100/35 hardware is of the synchronous topology and prone to do this.
Perhaps the software also detects it cannot seem to manage the fake solar input and goes off to Noddy Land.
Who knows, but the fundamental electronics could be the cause.
I'd be unhappy if I'd spent top dollar for quality, and it doesn't work. Looking forward to the busbars
Makes me wonder if my epever charge controller will limit power if it gets hot.
Well, your multimeter does agree with the PPT that there is 130Vdc on the PPT input when the solar panels are isolated after the PPT has locked up. The question is where is it coming from. Next time it happen, you may want to try connecting a load of some sort across the PPT's input to see if you might just be reading the input capacitor voltage after it quit working. If the input voltage comes back up after removing the load, whatever made it lock up is also causing it to boost in reverse.
13:57 The Volt meter does not lie. I noticed the same - in the beginning of the video it sounds like a software problem - "Look here, the app on the smartphone shows 130 Volts, although I have updated to the last version of the firmware".
But when you measure the voltage, the reading really IS 130-ish Volts. That means that the unit is broke, since the only power source connected is the battery bank. And somehow the battery voltage gets to the input. I guess your battery bank is 48 volts, so the voltage is first ramped up and then fed to the inputs. Sounds like a pretty intricate fault. I would say that some semiconductor/s inside has failed.
@@inber Yes, he's running 48V. If the PPT uses software-controlled FETs to implement synchronous rectification in its buck-boost converter, it would be possible for the operating sequence to change in a way that would reverse power flow. There may also be a logic nugget protecting FETs against imminent destruction in case of software glitches.
The hardware may very well be perfectly intact.
Those mcb's are very good thats what i bought as they are non polarized.
odd why dont Victron put a generic microcontroller reset on the case & spare bt pin
Hi Andy
Enjoyed your video today, I and probably all your other subscribers picked up on your previous posting that your feelings were hurt. You’re a straight up guy, sharing your solar build with a varied bunch of subscribers, some with little knowledge and some with vast solar backgrounds. Unfortunately, there’s always going to be a few that have to criticize and be negative. You’re hanging yourself out there for the enjoyment of us all, and I think it’s great that you can block those as_____s.
I have a question for you, what’s happening with your “relay type bms” I’m assuming there’s an upcoming video to answer all the problems you were having with it.
Your doing good staying buzzy and spending all your money but having fun and I like watching so keep on spending staying buzzy and having fun its good for ya and ya are getting there 🤓👍🇺🇸
Andy, well said. But we do know there are people like that, rude and selfish.
You keep doing the good work.
Too bad stupidity does not give one headaches. However, would be hard to vaccinate people in the head, wouldn’t be?
Cheers,
Raz