The Off Grid Detail, I mean Garage is the best place to get the nuts and bolts of practical application. I'm in the dream/planning stages of my solar system and this is my favorite place to learn and get excited about what the equipment is doing and what it takes to keep it happy. I'm worried about all the electronics (contactors, digital switches, etc) lasting in a remote off-grid location for a long time but that's for future me to worry about. Right now, this is the place to learn and get the minutia embedded in my brain. Thanks for all the great info and time in experimenting. I look forward to taking the next step and actually getting the hardware but not until I've absorbed more of this needful info.
before you go a fan setup try a chimney tube setup 8-10 inch tall 3inch tubes going upward from top of the box and cold air inlet at bottom this would allow the chimney effect to work then if needed can add fans at bottom add the temperature management setup to control when the fans come on the chimney effect is effective when you get a 20f-30f temperature difference from the bottom to top of case it will draw its own cool air in most of time. I have built many super high end gaming rigs with this principle I just had a crazy amount of water cooling rads in my cases setup so that I had alot of buffer as the draw picked up and my setups rarely ever had the fans even turn on even during extreme gaming / encoding / mining / streaming you name it my rigs stayed pretty cool and were dead silent.
Awesome I love your excitement! I don't think you should put that inverter in a enclosure. The charge controller will be fine. But 300watt loss in the small enclosure might work for awhile but all that heat will cause efficiency losses to be raised and premature failure. Cut a 120mm hole in the top and drill holes in the bottom. Then install a fan with a temp probe. You do it for $50. I use a temp controller designed for seed germination to controller a heating pad and 120mm fan inside of a 30inch aluminum tool box in my lfp 300ah 24v battery box.it works great
you could use computer cpu cooling paste in between the backside of you charge controller and cabinet. that stuff is made to transfer heat as effecient and fast as possible
If you need cooling. You maybe able to put a relay powered by the inverter fan circuit. That way your box cooling fan will only come on when your inverter needs cooling.
I'd trust the victron shunt a lot more than the BMS, also consider adding a contactor that can be used to disconnect the batteries remotely/automatically if needed.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia yes but the software in some BMS's is not always the most tested and reliable, I'd much rather have a separate, in your case victron controlled redundant contactor for over temp/voltage/current at least.
Congrats. Thank you for showing us your progress. You can use the SmartShunt for the inverter or the batteries(both solar/inverter connected). Your charge controller only measures solar charging.
022721/0406h PST- Brisbane 022721/2206. Thank you, for the presentation. I may suggest that 2X100mm ball bearing extractors (230V mains) may be used, during extreme hot weather conditions in Brisbane. You need not monitor the switching ON/OFF procedure; as the same can be controlled through a digital temperature dependent unit costing around US$3.15 AU$4. (AliExpress)The device is extremely reliable and operates on universal voltage. Once set Up is done, it works indefinitely. Best extractors are induction motors (small) which lasts longer and less maintenance. Best wishes and 73s...
I'd just put a fan in the bottom of the cabnet, with a vent in one side, fan on the other, about a 140mm high speed fan use a thermal switch, to turn on at about 40°c, they are cheap, normally open thermal switch, and a fan and switch just incase it's needed, 104°F should not be too hot, place the sensor on the hottest component, or a adjustable thermal switch is only about $5, set the in and off temp, I set it for about 30°C and off at about 27°C they are available in 12v 24v and 220v and good for 10amps but I'd stay at about 5amps, but a simple fan in the enclosures should be fine if any cooling is needed,
Great job Andy. I would keep the smart shunt because it will show a lot of information you won't get from your bms. I really love my shunt and don't miss a display for the shunt
I agree also that you’ll need some better cooling Andy, especially as your garage will already be pretty warm in summer. A couple of small computer fans would make a huge difference. Nice job thus far 👍
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yeah I know, certainly something to consider. Especially if you can control any fans so they only run when absolutely necessary, then it shouldn’t be too bad.
@@FutureSystem738 I looked into filtering and stuff but you're going to add more and more to your system which needs maintenance and repair... I hope it will just work with the enclosure and won't get that hot 🤞
Thank you so much for your videos Your content is what I look forward to most on TH-cam. I hope your channel continues to grow well, you deserve it. - A diy battery and solar enthusiast from QLD
Easy option for cooling if required, fit 2 fans in the door ( this way you can leave all of you components still installed). Just pop the door off, cut out 2 holes for fans one in the upper half one in the lower, put the fan directions with the lower blowing into the box the upper sucking out. Control these 2 with a simple thermostat so they only run if required. You can buy fans with filtered cowls so they not only look smart the will not suck dust into the box.
Great video. You can improve convection/ cooling by having holes in top and bottom and allowing free flow at every device on every side (do not mount the devices directly to the back, use distance bushings) Have fun :-)
Thank you. Yes, that would be an option too, although we have lots of insects which would take advantage of that. Hence I went with the full enclosure to keep dust and insects out. Let's see how this goes...
I have the Victron 500 Amp shunt. The information it delivers to you is amazing. You definitely want to keep it and use. it It is way more accurate that the other devices. And with the Victron App on your phone you have WIFI access to all of your battery info instantly. Don't send it back, keep it and use it you won't be sorry.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I followed Victrons installation instructions. It is connected directly to the most negative battery post. All other connections to the battery negative post are connected to the other side of the shunt so it can measure all current passing in and out of the battery. Mine is the wifi model so I use the Victron app on my phone to view all of the info.
I love your project passion! Great video. Every time I think I have all I need to complete my (similar) project, I find myself buying something else. It is all fun regardless.
When you parallel them all to balance, I really suggest you connect the charger whilst doing it. Just putting them in parallel itself can never fully balance them, it needs a charge or discharge current to get them balanced (preferably charge). :)
Hello Andy!! Congrats for the amazing setup! I've just completed my first setup too and i can totally understand the exiting that explode in your mind when you troubleshoot and than things works!! It's really amazing! One question by tho. My setup is much smaller than your, i have just 4 200Ah cells in series for a portable standard 12V array. I noticed that the cells were pefectly matched in termes of volts so i didn't do the top balancing procedure... What problems may occur? Thank you very much! Cheers from Italy!
Thanks for your feedback and comment. You need to top balance the cells before you put them together. Even a very small difference in voltage can have a high SOC difference. The charging curve of LFP cells is so flat, you cannot really measure the voltage difference sometimes but the state of charge could be quite different. If the difference is only very tiny you can let the BMS do the job over time with the right settings.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia understood! Thank you very much for reply! I noticed that One cell is piking before the others so i think the problem Is exaclty what you said, a small differece in soc. So I'm going to top balance in parallel. Thank you again 🙏
Keep the victron shunt. Take a look at the "open source" part of their website, specially to the Venus distro for the raspberry pi. You can make a very nice display/dashboard on the cheap.
Awesome! So happy you are moving into final phases. I am finally (after months of testing etc. like you) I am building my wall as well and getting excited! By the way, I agree with your thoughts on the cabinet.. see how it all goes, and if you need to vent later you could add a DC to DC power supply to a set of terminal blocks and run a small computer type fan to exhaust heat if you need . GREAT JOB and love your videos!
I don't know what's easiest, top balance of large cells, or 10,000 small cells! When I used small cells I did full charge each cell, but it's impractical to parallel all before building the battery, I haven't had issues, I did connect each pack parallel to each other and charged them, and allowed time to self balance, also did a few micro cycles, discharge from 4.2v to 3.9 or so, then charge, to allow any lower cells to charge, but capacity testing 1,000's of cells in a pack at once isn't easy with the equipment I have , it would take months!! With eack cell tested, and matched in packs it should all be good, it us so far, I have about 1200 ah 24v I'm looking for a non smart BMS, I need to pass 300amps constantly, without hearing, I'm using a shunt trip with small BMS, that will never balance the pack, it may if only charged at 1 amp for a day, if the balance is off a bit, it should keep decent balance, I used quality cells, I haven't had issues yet, but time will tell!
Hi I enjoy your videos very much. I was wondering what is the make of the BMS? As it seems like the right one for me. I am looking to change from lead acid to lifep for my house in Spain as it is totally of grid. Thanks
Excited, excited, excited!!! That Battery looks gorgeous. Wouldn't a 16S BMS be easier to set up? I want to make this journey as well, but that BMS config made me sh#t my pants... 😅😅😅
But in 3 years you will be considering replacing that amg. In 3 years his lfp battery will be running at 95% capacity with another 17years of life. You can't beat those 280 lfp batterys at the current price.
Yeah I used to have agms. 16 of them, telecom back up batteries. Very heavy, no way of checking specific gravity and high resistance to charging in the winter, quite inefficient in reality when they are 50% discharged for any amount of time. I switched to lithium ion lmc, and its made a huge difference in terms of real power storage. Because the c rate is low both charging and discharging, they don't go out of balance. I will never entertain the idea of agm, fla or gell ever again. But if you're happy, that's all that counts. 😉😉
AGM are certainly easy to setup. But we're now over this point and have moved on from this old technology. Like in transport, moving from internal combustion engines to electric.
POTENTIAL RISK OF SHORT!!! Not having any way to contact Andy directly I am using this comment forum to warn everyone of a POTENTIAL HAZARD. This may not apply to all lithium cells supplied direct from China but I suggest that you check your cells to make sure that it doesn't apply to you. It is reasonably well known that the casing of these lithium cells are metal and are the same potential as the positive terminal. As the casings are covered in blue plastic this should reduce the risk of shorting out. However I have found that the underside of mine do not have any covering. Any cells connected in series sitting on a metal surface can create a short with hazardous consequences. I noticed this because I intend to sit my cells on an aluminium plate with heater mats underneath to distribute heat in cold weather. Although most users won't be installing their cells on a conducting surface the risk is still relevant wherever the cells might be placed even temporarily on a metal surface. If anyone has direct contact with Andy can you draw his attention to this so that he can spread the word. Meanwhile I will contact my supplier in China to inform them of the problem.
I can't speak to your BMS, but mine, in theory is able to count AH usage. In reality, I found it to be wildly inaccurate. I bought the Victron Smart Shunt and will be keeping it. It is far more accurate. I would check your BMS against the Smart Shunt before returning it.
My gratulations that you came so far. It's good to know that you got advise fron China for the BMS: I would not expecting this. I think we all are looking foreward for your final installation. Good luck!
I have my RV inverters mounted in a much larger compartment and the inverters easily heat the compartment up to over 100F (around 40C) when they are under load. The only issue with this is that the inverters can only produce their rated power at around 20C. As they get hotter they de-rate themselves and will not produce as much power. Victron inverters actually publish various power outputs for different temperatures to help illustrate this effect. Keeping the inverters cool is key to allowing them to operate at their full capacity. I would not mount them inside that enclosure unless you're going to put some serious exhaust fans on it.
moonshine loader ??? :D Setzt Du deshalb deinen gasbrenner (BBQ) nicht instand? Weil Du die Abwärme fürs BBQ nutzen möchtest? Du bist ja noch sparsamer als die berüchtigten Schwaben ;o) Gruß nach DU zu den Eisbären und Pinguinen :D lg walter
@DIY Projects yes using a better solar charge control would be more efficient but he is talking about heat generated inside a sealed box electrodacus makes a control with diversion if you have heat generated in the box that is coming from energy losses in the devices enclosed using a diversion with a peltier or liquid thermal transfer would allow box to remain sealed and to those who are saying peltier is grossly inefficient they dont know the proper way to use them otherwise NASA would NOT use them on the space station and manufacturers would stop making them because they want all the profit spinoff.nasa.gov/Spinoff2009/ip_4.html www.science.gov/topicpages/t/thermoelectric+cooling+devices.html
@DIY Projects yes using a better solar charge control would be more efficient but he is talking about heat generated inside a sealed box electrodacus makes a control with diversion if you have heat generated in the box that is coming from energy losses in the devices enclosed using a diversion with a peltier or liquid thermal transfer would allow box to remain sealed and to those who are saying peltier is grossly inefficient they dont know the proper way to use them otherwise NASA would NOT use them on the space station and manufacturers would stop making them because they want all the profit
@DIY Projects i never said andy was stupid i was referencing the person who said "grossly inefficient" Urs odermatt and i applaud andy for bringing this study to all persons whom are willing to learn this ONLY a discussion about alternatives for EVERYONE and fans are a way to move heat and cheap but not everyone wants the same thing some might want know other possible alternatives
Well on my system I do not generate much heat in the batteries just a couple of degrees but the charging system and the inverters make a lot of heat but this all depends on the loads I charge at 100 amps but only discharge at 40 amps so good luck on a 40 degree Aussy day.
As I mentioned to him before: there is a reason an inverter, even though it is encased in metal, needs fans. He's going to create a hot box and the inverter won't like that one bit.
I agree. In our off-grid system with lead acid battery bank the 2x 80 amp Outback Solar MPPT's and Latronics inverter generate a lot of heat, particularly when we are charging our EV. Irrespective of the size of any heat sink without good air flow (and mechanical assisted airflow if under decent load) this gear would just shutdown, no questions asked!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hi Andy, not a criticism just an observation, we're all learning everyday. Thumbs up on the channel, your offering a great service free and fantastic to see your excitement flow through to your videos.
Congratulations Andy , I wouldn't have had the patience but I'm glad you did. Thanks for teaching me something.
Thanks 👍
The Off Grid Detail, I mean Garage is the best place to get the nuts and bolts of practical application. I'm in the dream/planning stages of my solar system and this is my favorite place to learn and get excited about what the equipment is doing and what it takes to keep it happy.
I'm worried about all the electronics (contactors, digital switches, etc) lasting in a remote off-grid location for a long time but that's for future me to worry about. Right now, this is the place to learn and get the minutia embedded in my brain. Thanks for all the great info and time in experimenting. I look forward to taking the next step and actually getting the hardware but not until I've absorbed more of this needful info.
Your enthusiasm is contagious! I watch your videos to get cheered up
Hahaha, that's great. Thanks for that 😄
⭐️ super vlog 👍
Well done Andy. Have enjoyed your videos and plenty of food for thought to build a system for my caravan to go off grid.
Cheers!
Thanks Paul!
Could you cut a hole in the metal cabinet and add a computer fan to keep airflow up?
Hi you need to put a link to the BMS
Yes
Good JOB.....................
Thank you! Cheers!
Doing a similar rocket sience topic in my offgrid castle in germany. Very nice to see that my path is okay. Excellent work, very interesting
Thank you very much and greetings to good old Germany!
Mount the inverter outside the cabinet.
I agree or put a 120mm fan on top that moves alot of cfm and drill holes in the bottom
In consideration
before you go a fan setup try a chimney tube setup 8-10 inch tall 3inch tubes going upward from top of the box and cold air inlet at bottom this would allow the chimney effect to work then if needed can add fans at bottom add the temperature management setup to control when the fans come on the chimney effect is effective when you get a 20f-30f temperature difference from the bottom to top of case it will draw its own cool air in most of time. I have built many super high end gaming rigs with this principle I just had a crazy amount of water cooling rads in my cases setup so that I had alot of buffer as the draw picked up and my setups rarely ever had the fans even turn on even during extreme gaming / encoding / mining / streaming you name it my rigs stayed pretty cool and were dead silent.
Congrats! Finally you are on the right way :-) I'm looking forward to see the complete setup in its place
Thanks for what you are doing. Watching closely. I can't find a link to the BMS you chose on your site. Am I missing it?
The BMS video is coming next... and so will the link.
Awesome I love your excitement! I don't think you should put that inverter in a enclosure. The charge controller will be fine. But 300watt loss in the small enclosure might work for awhile but all that heat will cause efficiency losses to be raised and premature failure. Cut a 120mm hole in the top and drill holes in the bottom. Then install a fan with a temp probe. You do it for $50. I use a temp controller designed for seed germination to controller a heating pad and 120mm fan inside of a 30inch aluminum tool box in my lfp 300ah 24v battery box.it works great
you could use computer cpu cooling paste in between the backside of you charge controller and cabinet.
that stuff is made to transfer heat as effecient and fast as possible
That charge controller won't put of much heat. Maybe 15watts at full capacity but that's a good idea
There is no surface on the back of the charge controller. It has cooling fins which barely would touch the metal. It's more heat radiation.
If you need cooling. You maybe able to put a relay powered by the inverter fan circuit. That way your box cooling fan will only come on when your inverter needs cooling.
I like this idea! That's great thinking.
You are such an inspiration Andy. Thank you.
Thank you, Wayne.
Good job and congratulations
Thank you.
I'd trust the victron shunt a lot more than the BMS, also consider adding a contactor that can be used to disconnect the batteries remotely/automatically if needed.
I can do this through the BMS. It has a contactor.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia yes but the software in some BMS's is not always the most tested and reliable, I'd much rather have a separate, in your case victron controlled redundant contactor for over temp/voltage/current at least.
Congrats. Thank you for showing us your progress.
You can use the SmartShunt for the inverter or the batteries(both solar/inverter connected). Your charge controller only measures solar charging.
022721/0406h PST- Brisbane 022721/2206. Thank you, for the presentation. I may suggest that 2X100mm ball bearing extractors (230V mains) may be used, during extreme hot weather conditions in Brisbane. You need not monitor the switching ON/OFF procedure; as the same can be controlled through a digital temperature dependent
unit costing around US$3.15 AU$4. (AliExpress)The device is extremely reliable and operates on universal voltage. Once set Up is done, it works indefinitely. Best extractors are induction motors (small) which lasts longer and less maintenance.
Best wishes and 73s...
Love watching your videos, we are all learning together and i too found out about wiring the BMS after i had the cells set up. Thank you
Thank you, Darragh. It's a great experience for me.
I'd just put a fan in the bottom of the cabnet, with a vent in one side, fan on the other, about a 140mm high speed fan use a thermal switch, to turn on at about 40°c, they are cheap, normally open thermal switch, and a fan and switch just incase it's needed, 104°F should not be too hot, place the sensor on the hottest component, or a adjustable thermal switch is only about $5, set the in and off temp, I set it for about 30°C and off at about 27°C they are available in 12v 24v and 220v and good for 10amps but I'd stay at about 5amps, but a simple fan in the enclosures should be fine if any cooling is needed,
I'm not a big fan of fans. Dust...
Great job Andy. I would keep the smart shunt because it will show a lot of information you won't get from your bms. I really love my shunt and don't miss a display for the shunt
Thanks Martin. I will most likely keep it...
I agree also that you’ll need some better cooling Andy, especially as your garage will already be pretty warm in summer.
A couple of small computer fans would make a huge difference.
Nice job thus far 👍
The dust though!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yeah I know, certainly something to consider.
Especially if you can control any fans so they only run when absolutely necessary, then it shouldn’t be too bad.
@@FutureSystem738 I looked into filtering and stuff but you're going to add more and more to your system which needs maintenance and repair... I hope it will just work with the enclosure and won't get that hot 🤞
Thank you so much for your videos Your content is what I look forward to most on TH-cam. I hope your channel continues to grow well, you deserve it.
- A diy battery and solar enthusiast from QLD
Thank you so much for your feedback. That really helps and motivates me a lot.
Easy option for cooling if required, fit 2 fans in the door ( this way you can leave all of you components still installed).
Just pop the door off, cut out 2 holes for fans one in the upper half one in the lower, put the fan directions with the lower blowing into the box the upper sucking out. Control these 2 with a simple thermostat so they only run if required.
You can buy fans with filtered cowls so they not only look smart the will not suck dust into the box.
Perfect! That's the best solution so far if I need cooling. Thank you for your suggestion, John.
Great video. You can improve convection/ cooling by having holes in top and bottom and allowing free flow at every device on every side (do not mount the devices directly to the back, use distance bushings) Have fun :-)
Thank you. Yes, that would be an option too, although we have lots of insects which would take advantage of that. Hence I went with the full enclosure to keep dust and insects out. Let's see how this goes...
So sieht ein zufriedener Mann aus. Der liebt es, wenn ein Plan funktioniert. 😁
Hahaha, ja genau!
I have the Victron 500 Amp shunt. The information it delivers to you is amazing. You definitely want to keep it and use. it It is way more accurate that the other devices. And with the Victron App on your phone you have WIFI access to all of your battery info instantly. Don't send it back, keep it and use it you won't be sorry.
How have you connected it? After the BMS or directly to the battery and then the BMS?
WiFi? It has Bluetooth, no WiFi?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I followed Victrons installation instructions. It is connected directly to the most negative battery post. All other connections to the battery negative post are connected to the other side of the shunt so it can measure all current passing in and out of the battery. Mine is the wifi model so I use the Victron app on my phone to view all of the info.
I love your project passion! Great video. Every time I think I have all I need to complete my (similar) project, I find myself buying something else. It is all fun regardless.
You are the best man 🤝👍✌
Thank you very much!
When you parallel them all to balance, I really suggest you connect the charger whilst doing it. Just putting them in parallel itself can never fully balance them, it needs a charge or discharge current to get them balanced (preferably charge). :)
Yes, absolutely. It'll be in the next video.
Hello Andy!! Congrats for the amazing setup! I've just completed my first setup too and i can totally understand the exiting that explode in your mind when you troubleshoot and than things works!! It's really amazing!
One question by tho. My setup is much smaller than your, i have just 4 200Ah cells in series for a portable standard 12V array. I noticed that the cells were pefectly matched in termes of volts so i didn't do the top balancing procedure... What problems may occur? Thank you very much! Cheers from Italy!
Thanks for your feedback and comment.
You need to top balance the cells before you put them together. Even a very small difference in voltage can have a high SOC difference. The charging curve of LFP cells is so flat, you cannot really measure the voltage difference sometimes but the state of charge could be quite different. If the difference is only very tiny you can let the BMS do the job over time with the right settings.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia understood! Thank you very much for reply! I noticed that One cell is piking before the others so i think the problem Is exaclty what you said, a small differece in soc. So I'm going to top balance in parallel. Thank you again 🙏
Anytime 🙂
Will the BMS App show you state of charge for your battery bank.
Yes, it will.
Yes 🔋👍
Keep the victron shunt. Take a look at the "open source" part of their website, specially to the Venus distro for the raspberry pi. You can make a very nice display/dashboard on the cheap.
Thanks for the tip!
You are doing so well, I am excited to watch the next video.
In relation to heat, will you measure via a thermometer?
Oh, yes, absolutely. I will measure everything all day long. I've almost got my bed in the garage now.
How much was the shipping on your batteys
Watch this: th-cam.com/video/21YY4HHdQYI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info if you just look on there site the shipping they show will make ya choke a little 👍😁
Looking good my man =)
Nice to see you are going forward. How the bms substitutes a shunt ? Or is missed a point ?
They both show the same data and information more or less, so this doubles up a bit.
Awesome! So happy you are moving into final phases. I am finally (after months of testing etc. like you) I am building my wall as well and getting excited! By the way, I agree with your thoughts on the cabinet.. see how it all goes, and if you need to vent later you could add a DC to DC power supply to a set of terminal blocks and run a small computer type fan to exhaust heat if you need . GREAT JOB and love your videos!
I don't know what's easiest, top balance of large cells, or 10,000 small cells! When I used small cells I did full charge each cell, but it's impractical to parallel all before building the battery, I haven't had issues, I did connect each pack parallel to each other and charged them, and allowed time to self balance, also did a few micro cycles, discharge from 4.2v to 3.9 or so, then charge, to allow any lower cells to charge, but capacity testing 1,000's of cells in a pack at once isn't easy with the equipment I have , it would take months!! With eack cell tested, and matched in packs it should all be good, it us so far, I have about 1200 ah 24v I'm looking for a non smart BMS, I need to pass 300amps constantly, without hearing, I'm using a shunt trip with small BMS, that will never balance the pack, it may if only charged at 1 amp for a day, if the balance is off a bit, it should keep decent balance, I used quality cells, I haven't had issues yet, but time will tell!
Great video Thanks
Hi, Question what is the buck converter you used?
@DIY Projects ok thanks
Hi I enjoy your videos very much. I was wondering what is the make of the BMS? As it seems like the right one for me. I am looking to change from lead acid to lifep for my house in Spain as it is totally of grid. Thanks
Excited, excited, excited!!! That Battery looks gorgeous.
Wouldn't a 16S BMS be easier to set up? I want to make this journey as well, but that BMS config made me sh#t my pants... 😅😅😅
AGM set voltage done.. no bms no apps no emails no bs to go threw
But in 3 years you will be considering replacing that amg. In 3 years his lfp battery will be running at 95% capacity with another 17years of life. You can't beat those 280 lfp batterys at the current price.
Yeah I used to have agms. 16 of them, telecom back up batteries. Very heavy, no way of checking specific gravity and high resistance to charging in the winter, quite inefficient in reality when they are 50% discharged for any amount of time. I switched to lithium ion lmc, and its made a huge difference in terms of real power storage. Because the c rate is low both charging and discharging, they don't go out of balance. I will never entertain the idea of agm, fla or gell ever again.
But if you're happy, that's all that counts. 😉😉
AGM are certainly easy to setup. But we're now over this point and have moved on from this old technology. Like in transport, moving from internal combustion engines to electric.
Waiting hour by hour but no more news from australia. How shall i survive?
Tonight my friend, tonight. I'm back at work and have 9h less time each day...
Im building 280ah x 16. Daly bms 120ah. Can u use a Daly bms to setup? Ty.
I don't have a Daly BMS as I went with this cheaper option of a QUCC BMS to see how this performs.
Search for the YT-Channel of Will Prowse there you should find everything you need to know about working with a Daly BMS
Hey Andy,
Can you provide me the link for the new app for bms? And the wiring diagram. I think I'm buying the same holly trash bms😁
Sure, I will link this on my website soon together with the BMS.
Thank you Andy you're so kind🙂
POTENTIAL RISK OF SHORT!!!
Not having any way to contact Andy directly I am using this comment forum to warn everyone of a POTENTIAL HAZARD.
This may not apply to all lithium cells supplied direct from China but I suggest that you check your cells to make sure that it doesn't apply to you.
It is reasonably well known that the casing of these lithium cells are metal and are the same potential as the positive terminal. As the casings are covered in blue plastic this should reduce the risk of shorting out. However I have found that the underside of mine do not have any covering. Any cells connected in series sitting on a metal surface can create a short with hazardous consequences. I noticed this because I intend to sit my cells on an aluminium plate with heater mats underneath to distribute heat in cold weather. Although most users won't be installing their cells on a conducting surface the risk is still relevant wherever the cells might be placed even temporarily on a metal surface. If anyone has direct contact with Andy can you draw his attention to this so that he can spread the word. Meanwhile I will contact my supplier in China to inform them of the problem.
I geek the same way
I could do it all day long. It's such a fantastic experience.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I'm in a different hemisphere, in bizzarro world...You would be a great neighbor....
I can't speak to your BMS, but mine, in theory is able to count AH usage. In reality, I found it to be wildly inaccurate. I bought the Victron Smart Shunt and will be keeping it. It is far more accurate. I would check your BMS against the Smart Shunt before returning it.
Very good point, Martin. Thank you.
My gratulations that you came so far.
It's good to know that you got advise fron China for the BMS: I would not expecting this.
I think we all are looking foreward for your final installation.
Good luck!
Thank you very much! It's really exciting.
Congrats everything is working and you documenting it, very much appreciated.
Thanks Edward!
I have my RV inverters mounted in a much larger compartment and the inverters easily heat the compartment up to over 100F (around 40C) when they are under load. The only issue with this is that the inverters can only produce their rated power at around 20C. As they get hotter they de-rate themselves and will not produce as much power. Victron inverters actually publish various power outputs for different temperatures to help illustrate this effect.
Keeping the inverters cool is key to allowing them to operate at their full capacity. I would not mount them inside that enclosure unless you're going to put some serious exhaust fans on it.
moonshine loader ??? :D
Setzt Du deshalb deinen gasbrenner (BBQ) nicht instand? Weil Du die Abwärme fürs BBQ nutzen möchtest?
Du bist ja noch sparsamer als die berüchtigten Schwaben ;o)
Gruß nach DU zu den Eisbären und Pinguinen :D
lg walter
@DIY Projects yes using a better solar charge control would be more efficient but he is talking about heat generated inside a sealed box electrodacus makes a control with diversion if you have heat generated in the box that is coming from energy losses in the devices enclosed using a diversion with a peltier or liquid thermal transfer would allow box to remain sealed and to those who are saying peltier is grossly inefficient they dont know the proper way to use them otherwise NASA would NOT use them on the space station and manufacturers would stop making them because they want all the profit spinoff.nasa.gov/Spinoff2009/ip_4.html www.science.gov/topicpages/t/thermoelectric+cooling+devices.html
sandwich peltier cells on side walls for thermal mgmt using solar to operate cells during the day with pwm control very painless like a thermal cooler
I think one or two cooling fans will be sufficient if I need them. The solar needs to go in the battery... 😉
@DIY Projects yes using a better solar charge control would be more efficient but he is talking about heat generated inside a sealed box electrodacus makes a control with diversion if you have heat generated in the box that is coming from energy losses in the devices enclosed using a diversion with a peltier or liquid thermal transfer would allow box to remain sealed and to those who are saying peltier is grossly inefficient they dont know the proper way to use them otherwise NASA would NOT use them on the space station and manufacturers would stop making them because they want all the profit
@DIY Projects i never said andy was stupid i was referencing the person who said "grossly inefficient" Urs odermatt and i applaud andy for bringing this study to all persons whom are willing to learn this ONLY a discussion about alternatives for EVERYONE and fans are a way to move heat and cheap but not everyone wants the same thing some might want know other possible alternatives
First
You need to watch it first!!!!!!!!!!!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia yep lol
Well on my system I do not generate much heat in the batteries just a couple of degrees but the charging system and the inverters make a lot of heat but this all depends on the loads I charge at 100 amps but only discharge at 40 amps so good luck on a 40 degree Aussy day.
As I mentioned to him before: there is a reason an inverter, even though it is encased in metal, needs fans. He's going to create a hot box and the inverter won't like that one bit.
I agree. In our off-grid system with lead acid battery bank the 2x 80 amp Outback Solar MPPT's and Latronics inverter generate a lot of heat, particularly when we are charging our EV. Irrespective of the size of any heat sink without good air flow (and mechanical assisted airflow if under decent load) this gear would just shutdown, no questions asked!
I hear you guys...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hi Andy, not a criticism just an observation, we're all learning everyday. Thumbs up on the channel, your offering a great service free and fantastic to see your excitement flow through to your videos.