" CHROME DONT GET YOU HOME ". That statement could not have been more true. Great video, I think I have watched this 4 or 5 times since you made it. Any questions, watch a ezgz video. Thank you again for all you do for our great cars.
I never use sealant, just grease the valve cover sealing edge lightly and place the cork gasket in, then a thin smear of grease on the head side of the gasket. Never had a leaky one yet, plus no mucky clean up job when it is time to change them.
Thanks for your contribution John! I love it when you guys chime in and help make this a better channel. If we all share our experience everyone benifits
Sandrails are a special challenge if you cross a lot of ridges. I used bolt on aluminum with rubber channels on mine. They look nice for a while too. Can;t keep paint on anything out in sand.
That's good info. I've had a relatively very limited experience with different VW motors, and haven't run into nearly as many issues, so I haven't been able to learn all these little nuances for myself. It's so nice when a guy who has been living it for years can share their experience with the rest of us.
I also read how the stock tin covers actually cool the oil the best and that you should avoid the aluminum finned covers because they actually run hotter. VW engineers were smart. The valve covers and pushrod tubes are main parts of the oil cooling system. Fancy aftermarket pushrod tubes should be avoided, too.
that could explain the oil leak i had in my baja. good tip on the valve covers i will have to remember that next time i get a bug. have a great day mark
I replaced my valve cover gasket in my 2.5L jeep without cutting or modifying it and yes, it was warped. I used toothpicks to line up the bolt holes, and then once I got the valve cover in place i used mechanics picks to line the holes in the cover/head up with the holes the gasket. Fixed the leak perfect and it’s been a month or so. Btw I used a wire brush to get the gasket off the old valve cover. You seem like a great mechanic, and you seem to speak with experience. Nice baja!!
Thank you for another informative video. I will be using Bolt-On Valve covers for this go around. However, I think they are chrome... I will be switching them out. I'd never heard the "Chrome don't get you home" mantra. I was avoiding chrome for the simple fact you feel forced to always keep it shiny. My baja will probably always have a certain dirt luster to it. As always I enjoy your videos. Have a great week.
Bolt on valve covers are ok when they are new but the channel gaskets and plugs eventually get hard and go away. Your married to who ever you bought them from. Get spare sealls at time of purchase so your not in a jam later on.
Great information! As for using heater hose for crankcase ventilation, I have had that stuff swell up and turn gummy before. Purpose built PCV hose works much better.
2:12 I had this exact problem with some gaskets I bought in bulk. I'm a n00b so I didn't think anything of it, squeezed it in, put them on, started it up, and engine was dripping like crazy. Almost pouring out of the valve covers. Pulled them off, and it looks like the rocker arm snatched up the bulging gasket, and caused a huge gap for it to leak from. I might have to try that welded washer trick if it sucks them up again. Gonna try using some permatex case goop on the valve cover side before I weld it though.
@@TheEZGZ I ended up sanding them to fit with a die grinder w/ 80 grit disk, so they actually fit dropping them in, and no leaks! Didn't even have to use sealer. I'm sure it will seep a little cuz synthetic oil, but that's unavoidable with cork. Thanks for the tips!
I shoulda watched this one before I put my fresh 1904cc in the car; nice pools of oil on both sides soon after she fired up, for the break in, dang it. I guess I can't just use fresh ill-fitting cork gaskets and original chrome covers on fresh heads with the crappy original bales, and no sealant. So much for that experiment. Well at least I know there's lots of oil getting up top! And under the car I go. Thanks!!
Good video. But I notice my cork gaskets seem to rise up in the valve cover, against the head. seems like I have like 3/16" space below the cork gasket where oil seems to pool. Any thoughts?
I actually take a pair of pliers and slightly bend the outer edges of the valve cover in so that the valve cover basically bites down on the head, seals so much better!
Noob here - Great video. Had this van 6 years and the valve covers haven't been off once in that time!! If it ain't broke! Saying that though - they're looking rough and rusty so I think it's time to replace. Anything beneficial I could do while they're off?
Hey EZGZ. I noticed some of those covers have breather vents. Is a extra oil breather worth it on a standard 1600 Twin Port, in a van,for everyday use,please?
I have the German valve covers on a 73 type 3 1600 FI engine. I see some of the VW valve covers you have the black paint on the out side is partly worn away and the inside it's almost gone. Do you feel it's bad if the out side has a bit of factory paint worn off ? I do use permatex # 2 on the valve cover side because I don't trust the gasket to not move while installing the valve cover. I do know the valve cover gaskets that Elring sells in their German engine rebuild kit fit perfect as do the Victor Reinz Valve Cover Gasket 15-21644-03 auto zone offers . They are light and thick an both brands are the same. I used to get thinner ones from a dealer here and they were to small and thin and didn't hold up well to heat. I also need good adjusting screws and nuts , mine are German but now all I can find without a fortune shipped from the UK are ones made by IPA said to be German . Have you heard of these?
1776 is a great engine. Don't worry about it if you have reasonable compression. New gaskets suck especially if there valve covers are powdercoated inside and out
what are your thoughts on bolt on covers with channel gaskets? ive got them on my 1641 street car for about a year now, and haven't had a leak yet. the aftermarket heads were leaking with the stock cork. I even had to double up the gasket on one side and it still leaked.
I had bolt on covers on my sandrail a 2275 with dry sump oil system. They looked and worked great but I take mine off and on way to much to do R&D on my engines.
thanks for your reply! they do look good. I took my heater boxes off and put fiberglass wrapped j-tubes in their place. now I itch for two days afterwards when I adjust the valves. part of it I guess...
hey ez tell them about to thin of gaskets will make your adjustment skrews tap on on the cover. and that cover is like a drum and make you think its aknocking. and the worst is rubber ones because they shrink. I rember the gaskets for 2.75 and I freaked when they went to 4.00 bucks . rambus
I've owned and built many VW air cooled engines in the last 35 years if it's not the valve cover it's something else. They all mark there spot. Some sooner than later. I just accept it. Especially when using synthetic oil.
I'm with you. Chrome don't get you home. All good info.avation on valve cover side only.if I have time I like to seal the gasket on the cover and pop them on some loose clean heads up on the work bench. Leave them there for 5 minutes or so till they seat real good. Then pop them off and check them and there ready for long service life on the engine.Just wipe the cork with brake clean each time you take them off and reinstall. Like new.thumbs up
What did you replace? Are the sealing surfaces on your head very nice? Are your bails strong and tight? Are you sealing the gasket side of valve cover with sealant? Every VW engine I've had leaks someplace. hehehe
Like I said. All my engines eventually start leaking again. If it bothers me bad enough I start buying replacement parts and keep trying different things. Except the things you cannot change. Change the things you can and watch my channel to know the difference. hehehe
Good info on a constant battle against drips. I also like to check for square on a flat surface with the covers. I like those with lip tits. HaHa. Have a Great day my brother. VW:-)
add aome bend to the bails or try bolt on valve covers. They will leak but you just keep close attention to cover bolts. It's all part of having a VW that isn't stock
You are "The valve cover MAN". Been around VW's for 50 years and just got schooled.
" CHROME DONT GET YOU HOME ". That statement could not have been more true. Great video, I think I have watched this 4 or 5 times since you made it. Any questions, watch a ezgz video. Thank you again for all you do for our great cars.
Does chrome make more money on a semi? Or more lights?
I never use sealant, just grease the valve cover sealing edge lightly and place the cork gasket in, then a thin smear of grease on the head side of the gasket. Never had a leaky one yet, plus no mucky clean up job when it is time to change them.
Thanks for your contribution John! I love it when you guys chime in and help make this a better channel. If we all share our experience everyone benifits
Thank you...
Sharing your VW experiences is priceless. I'm going to try out your suggestions on the sandrail.
Sandrails are a special challenge if you cross a lot of ridges. I used bolt on aluminum with rubber channels on mine. They look nice for a while too. Can;t keep paint on anything out in sand.
That's good info. I've had a relatively very limited experience with different VW motors, and haven't run into nearly as many issues, so I haven't been able to learn all these little nuances for myself. It's so nice when a guy who has been living it for years can share their experience with the rest of us.
Thank You! I try to share what I have learned from the school of hark Knocks. Peace!
I also read how the stock tin covers actually cool the oil the best and that you should avoid the aluminum finned covers because they actually run hotter.
VW engineers were smart. The valve covers and pushrod tubes are main parts of the oil cooling system. Fancy aftermarket pushrod tubes should be avoided, too.
that could explain the oil leak i had in my baja. good tip on the valve covers i will have to remember that next time i get a bug.
have a great day
mark
Thanks for checking in Mark. I appreciate the support
I replaced my valve cover gasket in my 2.5L jeep without cutting or modifying it and yes, it was warped. I used toothpicks to line up the bolt holes, and then once I got the valve cover in place i used mechanics picks to line the holes in the cover/head up with the holes the gasket. Fixed the leak perfect and it’s been a month or so. Btw I used a wire brush to get the gasket off the old valve cover. You seem like a great mechanic, and you seem to speak with experience. Nice baja!!
Hey, I like people who think out of the box. Great solution for your 2.5 I hope you get lots of leak free smiles and miles.
Thanks for posting. I've had the same frustrations with the gasket not fitting properly. I will try to trim them like you have.
I just run some sealer across the flat bottom and call it good after I get the right fit.
Thank you for another informative video. I will be using Bolt-On Valve covers for this go around. However, I think they are chrome... I will be switching them out. I'd never heard the "Chrome don't get you home" mantra.
I was avoiding chrome for the simple fact you feel forced to always keep it shiny. My baja will probably always have a certain dirt luster to it.
As always I enjoy your videos. Have a great week.
Bolt on valve covers are ok when they are new but the channel gaskets and plugs eventually get hard and go away. Your married to who ever you bought them from. Get spare sealls at time of purchase so your not in a jam later on.
Great information! As for using heater hose for crankcase ventilation, I have had that stuff swell up and turn gummy before. Purpose built PCV hose works much better.
Been using it for many years and never had that problem. Even used garden hose hehehe
Hey, what a great idea pulling the gasket with electrical tape ... never heard that before !!! Greetings from "southern" Germany :-D
Sometimes you just have to be creative with what you have. LOL
I am betting that I will eventually run into this problem. Thanks GZ
You building a fleet so I think your right. :-)
always good info to rewatch. only thing not covered is the bolt on stuff. remember beetles don't leak but merely mark there spot.
I agree. I ran bolt on covers with my sandrail and really like them
Great info
very helpful man.
Glad ya liked it
2:12 I had this exact problem with some gaskets I bought in bulk. I'm a n00b so I didn't think anything of it, squeezed it in, put them on, started it up, and engine was dripping like crazy. Almost pouring out of the valve covers. Pulled them off, and it looks like the rocker arm snatched up the bulging gasket, and caused a huge gap for it to leak from.
I might have to try that welded washer trick if it sucks them up again. Gonna try using some permatex case goop on the valve cover side before I weld it though.
Letting is set up with wooden clothes pins before assembly helps sometimes.
@@TheEZGZ I ended up sanding them to fit with a die grinder w/ 80 grit disk, so they actually fit dropping them in, and no leaks! Didn't even have to use sealer. I'm sure it will seep a little cuz synthetic oil, but that's unavoidable with cork. Thanks for the tips!
very nice video thanks .
Thank you too!
Great info.
I appreciate the comment and support Remeo
Thats good info
Thanks Kenny!
oem supplier to VW on the gaskets is elring I sell hundreds every month. Very nice video on the crap valve covers
Than!ks
I shoulda watched this one before I put my fresh 1904cc in the car; nice pools of oil on both sides soon after she fired up, for the break in, dang it. I guess I can't just use fresh ill-fitting cork gaskets and original chrome covers on fresh heads with the crappy original bales, and no sealant. So much for that experiment. Well at least I know there's lots of oil getting up top! And under the car I go. Thanks!!
Hopefully you will get things sorted and start putting some miles on that new engine.
Good video. But I notice my cork gaskets seem to rise up in the valve cover, against the head. seems like I have like 3/16" space below the cork gasket where oil seems to pool. Any thoughts?
You might try some new valve covers www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1657.htm
Not sure where to get bails but some good used ones might help as well
I actually take a pair of pliers and slightly bend the outer edges of the valve cover in so that the valve cover basically bites down on the head, seals so much better!
Thanks for your contribution !
I got rubber gaskets, one side sealed nice. But not the other, i might weld a washer. If not what do you recommend?
Sometimes you just have to think it threw and take a chance. That's how I learned a lot of things.
Noob here - Great video. Had this van 6 years and the valve covers haven't been off once in that time!!
If it ain't broke! Saying that though - they're looking rough and rusty so I think it's time to replace.
Anything beneficial I could do while they're off?
Ya might want to check the valve clearance.
Hey EZGZ.
I noticed some of those covers have breather vents.
Is a extra oil breather worth it on a standard 1600 Twin Port, in a van,for everyday use,please?
Not needed unless offroad and steep hills or you have ring blowby.
I have the German valve covers on a 73 type 3 1600 FI engine. I see some of the VW valve covers you have the black paint on the out side is partly worn away and the inside it's almost gone. Do you feel it's bad if the out side has a bit of factory paint worn off ?
I do use permatex # 2 on the valve cover side because I don't trust the gasket to not move while installing the valve cover. I do know the valve cover gaskets that Elring sells in their German engine rebuild kit fit perfect as do the
Victor Reinz Valve Cover Gasket 15-21644-03 auto zone offers . They are light and thick an both brands are the same. I used to get thinner ones from a dealer here and they were to small and thin and didn't hold up well to heat.
I also need good adjusting screws and nuts , mine are German but now all I can find without a fortune shipped from the UK are ones made by IPA said to be German . Have you heard of these?
Well, it is what it is. When things wear out you have to use what is available. Most new valve come in black powder coat and hold up ok
Cool
What should the oil temperature be in a 1776 motor thought it might be running hot and that's why I was sucking that gasket is thanks
1776 is a great engine. Don't worry about it if you have reasonable compression. New gaskets suck especially if there valve covers are powdercoated inside and out
what are your thoughts on bolt on covers with channel gaskets? ive got them on my 1641 street car for about a year now, and haven't had a leak yet. the aftermarket heads were leaking with the stock cork. I even had to double up the gasket on one side and it still leaked.
I had bolt on covers on my sandrail a 2275 with dry sump oil system. They looked and worked great but I take mine off and on way to much to do R&D on my engines.
thanks for your reply! they do look good. I took my heater boxes off and put fiberglass wrapped j-tubes in their place. now I itch for two days afterwards when I adjust the valves. part of it I guess...
Tks Bro nice wach'g I need to change my casket my vault cover's leak'g
Glad it helped
HI, Want to paint the valve covers. I want to know how hot the valve covers get?
Same temp as your oil cause it's constantly be splashed on the inside.
I notice your valve covers have what looks like a vent tube. Mine (type 4) do not have vent tubes. Would it be harmful for me to run vent tubes?
No, Just messy and unless you have reason to do I would leave it stock.
I’ve been trying to find the lighter coloured gaskets, as I believe they are thicker.
Can’t seem to get them anywhere in the UK!
I wonder if you could tweak your valve cover bails for a bit more pressure?
@@TheEZGZ yup.
Tried that. A bit better.👍🏾🛠
Good info but I didn't catch what kind of sealer to use
I don't have a brand preference. Any brand sealer that works with your choice of oil should work ( read the package label)
good stuff ez
Hi Larry good to see you. Thanks for checkin in
So is there anything wrong with the bolt on aluminum covers I have them because I prefer the look
I agree and always used them on my sandrail. They were a PITA is all.
Pita?
Pain in the ass!
Lol ok I don't abbreviate good which is funny because I'm in the military and we have a million abbreviations for everything
What about those bolt on covers how to stop those from leaking
It's called going to the car wash every week. LOL
I guess there no way?
hey ez tell them about to thin of gaskets will make your adjustment skrews tap on on the cover. and that cover is like a drum and make you think its aknocking. and the worst is rubber ones because they shrink. I rember the gaskets for 2.75 and I freaked when they went to 4.00 bucks . rambus
Thanks for your contribution Jimmy. Good to get your opinion
are the cork gaskets supposed to leak a little after installation on a Vanagon until they swell up with oil contact?
I've owned and built many VW air cooled engines in the last 35 years if it's not the valve cover it's something else. They all mark there spot. Some sooner than later. I just accept it. Especially when using synthetic oil.
I'm with you. Chrome don't get you home. All good info.avation on valve cover side only.if I have time I like to seal the gasket on the cover and pop them on some loose clean heads up on the work bench. Leave them there for 5 minutes or so till they seat real good. Then pop them off and check them and there ready for long service life on the engine.Just wipe the cork with brake clean each time you take them off and reinstall. Like new.thumbs up
Always appreciate your input John. I will have to try the brake clean wipe. Thanks!
I replaced mine and it still leaks but very slowly
What did you replace? Are the sealing surfaces on your head very nice? Are your bails strong and tight? Are you sealing the gasket side of valve cover with sealant? Every VW engine I've had leaks someplace. hehehe
I’m sorry. I replaced the value cover gasket put it on tight as I can get it and it still leaked
Like I said. All my engines eventually start leaking again. If it bothers me bad enough I start buying replacement parts and keep trying different things. Except the things you cannot change. Change the things you can and watch my channel to know the difference. hehehe
Hello what sealant do you use? Mine won’t stop dripping.
Good info on a constant battle against drips. I also like to check for square on a flat surface with the covers. I like those with lip tits. HaHa. Have a Great day my brother. VW:-)
Tits and arse . I like them too. LOL
My scat engine has puked oil from the start. Bales are too weak, crap gaskets also
add aome bend to the bails or try bolt on valve covers. They will leak but you just keep close attention to cover bolts. It's all part of having a VW that isn't stock
@@TheEZGZ thank you
Not so EZGZ on a Ford Duratec DOHC Duratec V-6 engine. Trust me.
I'm sure your right. Thats why I drive these 50 year old POS