I have a home built in 1932 that's pier and beam. All the piers are made out of cedar logs! They literally just took a cedar tree, sliced it up, and stuck them in the ground. Still have the bark on them. Almost 100 years later, they're still going strong!
This was exactly the video my husband and I needed!! We are getting quotes for both concrete vs pier & beam. My husband can do all the electrical & plumbing so that is a big deal. The other factor is the view of our land from just a few feet higher is beautiful & we would miss all that on a slab. Thanks so much for the video!👍
Love the video. We are building a 42x26 pier and beam. We are getting ready to put our roof on soon. And you are right about adding additions. We are planning to have two additions added onto ours.
Thanks for the breakdown. I wanted to build my home by myself and my wanted to figure out how best to build in phases. This is clearly the best way to build in phases.
good point about comfort being on wood. I feel the same way. My house has a trench dug on the outer rim, with poured concrete, brick and block to the rim wood, and wood joists to center piers. The center piers did sag, and I got under and jacked them up using two 50 ton jacks, sat jacks on 6 or 7 layers of 2x2 foot 3/4 ply and that served great for a jacking point to lift the main center girder. I used a RR sleeper plate, 1/2" steel for the jack to lift the girder. That is the only negative, a potentially sagging foundation versus the slab, for me.
I like the point about moving things around. I may nail the design at first, but what if i want to gut and remodel 20 years later? And the levelling is a good bonus. Man you got me sold lol
Very informative... I've been watching videos to figure out how to build my cabin, definitely going with this style foundation. Also great for houses built on a slope..
Have you looked into American Ground Screw? From what I'm reading, each pier is $120 per pylon, no cement, no digging. Just essentially screw the pylon into the ground. I'm gonna try this for a cabin I want to build. thanks for this video. Good pointers, things I hadn't considered.
If I were inclined to build another home I think I’d use an adjustable lally column throughout and cross brace them with adjustable cables. In the event of settling super easy to level everything. Good job on the video.
so basically, you'd place the lally columns on concrete pads? what do you mean by cross brace them with cables? im a layman, forgive my silly questions
You can place them on single pads with soil analysis, but engineering may warrant continuous footing. Cabling (solid rod) runs “X-crossing” of adjacent peripheral/internal columns with turnbuckles. Do it right the first time…
Finally found these vids! I've been looking for your vids for 3 weeks now! Shiiiiit actually a month ½ 😅 i really wanted to see the roofing and the insolation.
We are just starting our second pier and beam home. We are going small this time 18’x40’ insect control is easy with pier and beam and the wind flow keeps it cooler in the summer months especially here in central Texas.
I said to myself….”aren’t you supposed to be in the NFL sacking Joe Burrow instead of building a house?” 😂 It is clear you are an athlete….and also a very knowledgeable builder. this video was fantastic and very informative. Thank you!
Only downside is possibly moisture issues and pipes can freeze easier. Slabs are not the best because if a pipe leaks you have to tear up the whole floor. Also concrete needs to breathe and the LVP traps moisture leading to mold. Slabs go moldy.
Pier and beam is also cheaper than a slab foundation and doesn't require leveling the ground first. A home DIY person can make one without having to use contractors. You can't put tile floor one though, it will flex too much and crack the tiles.
@@benjaminpupa839 true, a lot of wood is eliminated with a slab. My total cost on a 24 x 32 pier beam foundation with subfloor and deck planks on 1/3 of it was $4K. A slab would have required a 38" deep footer in my location, plus leveling the plot. I didn't get a quote on it since it wasn't an option for me, but that's a lot of concrete and contractor work to pay for and I'm sure it would go above $4K.
@@cluebin8398 I thought we were talking about houses and not sheds. I believe building code for houses requires a continuous footing for all load bearing walls. Your footing has to go below the frost line whether you have a crawlspace or a slab. By the time you seal and insulate the crawlspace for conditioned space, I believe the slab comes out cheaper. Also, I’m assuming all DIY because this channel seems to be DIY.
I’m doing a shed-to-outdoor bathroom shower, and you affirmed my choice of a pier and beam foundation. We have a site that would be too much trouble to grade to level for a slab. Thanks for this video!
By Chief Spirit of Shawnee, Cherokee, and Mississippi Choctaw Band Indians. Brother man, You have spoken the truth about Pier Beam techniques here, and working on my own house project in the NM area.
I really like the video and info. I personally chose treated for all beams and joist and even the 3/4 sub floor. No termites in foundation. Only have to worry about the rest of the house like slab…
Besides the cost use Cypress wood beams and for outside walls. Strength , rot resistant and bug/termite resistant it's worth the money and piece of mine.
Could you spec this sir? What Size concrete tube , how far down in ground from ground level, concrete pillars are the 8 ft spaced, floor joists what size 2× 10 x ?...any support on joists midlength, header or floor bearers look like their doubled up with one notched and the outside one higher , framing size nails used
If you have raised flooring system your house is subject to mould and wind damage. Snakes are a given , noise issues increase insulation becomes an issue for you as floor sealing insulation becomes necessary. Your house will be weaker.
As far as wind damage with pier and beam, then why are so many built in hurricane proned coastal areas? The underbelly of the floor joist must have an air and vapor barrier as do the floor and ceiling. The snake, rodent issue solved with encapsulating the exterior, subfloor no exception.
@@RICK-uf1jj I'm a builder so I know a thing or two about foundations, I'm not going to recommend a raised flooring system. They are cheap and nasty and have too many issues which is why no reputable building company recommends that you use them.
@@blake9358There is a house down the road from me built on a pier and beam style foundation, that's over a hundred years old that is still standing strong.
I asked a contractor about this style build for an ADU, and he said that type of foundation doesn't have enough shear strength. Is there any truth to that? I really want the pier and beam foundation for all the pros you mentioned
I have built houses out east. I am from Kentucky and I have also built in Tennessee and Ohio. Lots of pier and beam structures there but I am now living west of Fort Worth Texas and it seems that everything is slab foundatiins and the reason I was given is that the ground is so hard and with the heat in the summer and the cold in the winter, the ground expands and contracts so much that it is a necessity. My question is, would a pier and beam foundation hold up here and, if so, would the concrete piers have to be watered during the summer like the foundations have to be.
Just wanted to thank you for sharing these videos! They're great! We're looking forward to watching them all. Keep at it! By the way, I may have missed it, how deep did you dig the sonotubes into the ground?
Great video! Helpful! I’m looking into using concrete pier foundation for a 16 x 16 off-grid cabin located in the woods in Central NY, and am interested in floor height and vapor barriers. Can painting the floor joists and ground-facing plywood with house paint or Thompson’s water seal help seal things up? Others have proposed using plastic, but I’m daunted by the prospect of it getting holes in it and eventually failing. Also, in moist conditions, how do I find out how high to put the building? I’d like it to go around 1 1/2-2’ off the ground at its highest point. The land has a slight slope, leading to a lower region that eventually feeds a stream-which will help drainage and drop the overall water table.
What is the overall length and with of your building and do you have a video of a cost break down. We're just started with the planning stage and are looking at the rough cost side of it
Love the video! Is this home moveable? I would like to say save money on taxes. I've heard that movable home are not taxed since it is not a permanent structure.
Looks solid to me bro. Sonotubes have great load capacity if done correctly. Great job my brother. Looking good. How’s that Flex rear handle with that new battery doing? I bet that things a beast
I am planning mine, i was thinking concrete piers and either steel or concrete beams, would the flooring be enough give to walk on, using a OSB floorboard? Of course tiled or carpeted over that too
Mold was never an issue until we began enclosing the crawl spaces (around 1948) and learning how insulating can possibly work against you! Pier and beam is more easily ventilated, treated and maintained than slab or enclose foundation. Water pipes and freezing 🥶 s an issue for cold climates, however, the remedy is heavy insulation. Keep wind to minimum with: wind barriers of insulation board with thin plywood skins, bushes and vegetation, running water and sewer lines in deeper than trenches to below frost plus 18 inches.
Jon, have you ever looked into using helical piles instead of concrete piers? We are currently planning for a pier and beam approach using steel piles and steel framing.
Be careful using the steel studs since there really not structural (at least not the -C- shaped ones). They also have issues with condensation if you don’t use the correct material on the exterior/interior. My 2 cents..
I want my piers only 3 inches high from the ground. It will be container units so I want it close to the ground. Any codes against it being so close to the ground?
Sounds like there are almost no benefits for Slab versus pier and beam....especially when down the road, external water lines and sewer lines have to be replaced...which can be a huge cost for slab house owners.
How do you not know where your plumbing and electric is gonna go ahead of the foundation…? Doesn’t your permit require the actual drawings of this stuff?
Im not sure what you think your doing but you have no crawl space, no gravel and plastic under the floor you will be jacking up your floor due to settling. Your distance from dirt to floor joist is too close also bus, mice and rot will be your best friend. Have fun insulating as well. If you have a continuous footing for the piers its a good set up added you have a crawl space to keep things dry, mice love to jump up in your insulation and live, and fill it with piss and crap.
Damn Steve appreciate the education l. I had no idea. 🙏🏾 and to anyone reading his educational comment here…never install your moisture barrier before your subs have ran ALL Your plumbing, electrical, spray foam, and anything else that requires people to be crawling under your house. Install it at the very end of your build so you have no punctures or tears. Also the bottom of my beam is 12” above grade. It’s low but it’s code. I appreciate your concern for the well being of my build 🙏🏾
Just keep in mind, the Code specifies minimum requirements. I’m planning on likely building a pier and beam foundation as well for simplicity and some of the other reasons you mentioned. For access, I’ll likely have it 2’ above grade, since I’m a big guy. 12” is too low for me to comfortably crawl under.
@@boeing757pilot Hello. I’m curious, where you are considering building? I’m Canadian living in Japan. My plan was to return to Canada 🇨🇦 and build where I could most easily afford which was northern BC in a subarctic climate. I’ve changed my mind now - I don’t want to live in 5 months of severe winter! So, no I haven’t built yet. Feel free to ask further questions if you have any.
pier and beam is king. but you will have to claw around in the dirt like a worm to repair anything. p.s french drain that hill to your right. p.s.s osb is trash after it gets wet. p.s.s.s never mix wood and plastic it will sweat and rot.
I have a home built in 1932 that's pier and beam.
All the piers are made out of cedar logs! They literally just took a cedar tree, sliced it up, and stuck them in the ground. Still have the bark on them. Almost 100 years later, they're still going strong!
Impressive. Any sag at all in the house?
You are really easy to understand I appreciate that. Some people over explain.
Thanks!!
This was exactly the video my husband and I needed!! We are getting quotes for both concrete vs pier & beam. My husband can do all the electrical & plumbing so that is a big deal. The other factor is the view of our land from just a few feet higher is beautiful & we would miss all that on a slab. Thanks so much for the video!👍
Check out Matt Risinger on metal framing pros and cons, it may change your outlook on it. Good luck..
Did you build it, by chance?
Outstanding presentation. Very informative! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Great job Jon on the details & commentary of both foundation types. Very insightful and useful too!
😀👍
Love the video. We are building a 42x26 pier and beam. We are getting ready to put our roof on soon. And you are right about adding additions. We are planning to have two additions added onto ours.
Thanks for the breakdown. I wanted to build my home by myself and my wanted to figure out how best to build in phases. This is clearly the best way to build in phases.
good point about comfort being on wood. I feel the same way. My house has a trench dug on the outer rim, with poured concrete, brick and block to the rim wood, and wood joists to center piers. The center piers did sag, and I got under and jacked them up using two 50 ton jacks, sat jacks on 6 or 7 layers of 2x2 foot 3/4 ply and that served great for a jacking point to lift the main center girder. I used a RR sleeper plate, 1/2" steel for the jack to lift the girder. That is the only negative, a potentially sagging foundation versus the slab, for me.
I like the point about moving things around. I may nail the design at first, but what if i want to gut and remodel 20 years later?
And the levelling is a good bonus.
Man you got me sold lol
Very informative... I've been watching videos to figure out how to build my cabin, definitely going with this style foundation. Also great for houses built on a slope..
Have you looked into American Ground Screw? From what I'm reading, each pier is $120 per pylon, no cement, no digging. Just essentially screw the pylon into the ground. I'm gonna try this for a cabin I want to build.
thanks for this video. Good pointers, things I hadn't considered.
Thank you or doing this video. You are a very smart man. My family gets a better house for less money because of you.❤
If I were inclined to build another home I think I’d use an adjustable lally column throughout and cross brace them with adjustable cables. In the event of settling super easy to level everything. Good job on the video.
so basically, you'd place the lally columns on concrete pads? what do you mean by cross brace them with cables? im a layman, forgive my silly questions
You can place them on single pads with soil analysis, but engineering may warrant continuous footing. Cabling (solid rod) runs “X-crossing” of adjacent peripheral/internal columns with turnbuckles. Do it right the first time…
Finally found these vids! I've been looking for your vids for 3 weeks now! Shiiiiit actually a month ½ 😅 i really wanted to see the roofing and the insolation.
We are just starting our second pier and beam home. We are going small this time 18’x40’ insect control is easy with pier and beam and the wind flow keeps it cooler in the summer months especially here in central Texas.
I said to myself….”aren’t you supposed to be in the NFL sacking Joe Burrow instead of building a house?” 😂 It is clear you are an athlete….and also a very knowledgeable builder. this video was fantastic and very informative. Thank you!
Only downside is possibly moisture issues and pipes can freeze easier. Slabs are not the best because if a pipe leaks you have to tear up the whole floor. Also concrete needs to breathe and the LVP traps moisture leading to mold. Slabs go moldy.
Pier and beam is also cheaper than a slab foundation and doesn't require leveling the ground first. A home DIY person can make one without having to use contractors. You can't put tile floor one though, it will flex too much and crack the tiles.
I’m interested to see your numbers. Slabs don’t require flooring, subfloor, or framing.
@@benjaminpupa839 true, a lot of wood is eliminated with a slab. My total cost on a 24 x 32 pier beam foundation with subfloor and deck planks on 1/3 of it was $4K. A slab would have required a 38" deep footer in my location, plus leveling the plot. I didn't get a quote on it since it wasn't an option for me, but that's a lot of concrete and contractor work to pay for and I'm sure it would go above $4K.
@@cluebin8398 I thought we were talking about houses and not sheds. I believe building code for houses requires a continuous footing for all load bearing walls. Your footing has to go below the frost line whether you have a crawlspace or a slab. By the time you seal and insulate the crawlspace for conditioned space, I believe the slab comes out cheaper. Also, I’m assuming all DIY because this channel seems to be DIY.
I’m doing a shed-to-outdoor bathroom shower, and you affirmed my choice of a pier and beam foundation. We have a site that would be too much trouble to grade to level for a slab. Thanks for this video!
Really helpful thank you friend ! Many good points ❤
Your break down is much appreciated. Thanks
Instead of putting house joists directly on peirs put 4 2x10s or a steel beam spanning the piers and build house on top of them.
OMG. I watch you on Tik Tok! I follow you there for your insights, now I'm following you here for another! Awesome!
Alright im sold. Nice explanation.
By Chief Spirit of Shawnee, Cherokee, and Mississippi Choctaw Band Indians.
Brother man, You have spoken the truth about Pier Beam techniques here, and working on
my own house project in the NM area.
The best foundation , l.saw 3 floors construction with no issues at all.
I really like the video and info. I personally chose treated for all beams and joist and even the 3/4 sub floor. No termites in foundation. Only have to worry about the rest of the house like slab…
Besides the cost use Cypress wood beams and for outside walls. Strength , rot resistant and bug/termite resistant it's worth the money and piece of mine.
Just found your channel I can't wait to see this cabin. Thanks for the info
Looks like you have some beautiful land down there man!
Good luck and wish you the best❤️I’m watching you from Saudi Arabia.
Thank you!
Well explained! Thanks!
Could you spec this sir? What Size concrete tube , how far down in ground from ground level, concrete pillars are the 8 ft spaced, floor joists what size 2× 10 x ?...any support on joists midlength, header or floor bearers look like their doubled up with one notched and the outside one higher , framing size nails used
But pier and beam for elevated houses 2 stories waht do you think??
If you have raised flooring system your house is subject to mould and wind damage. Snakes are a given , noise issues increase insulation becomes an issue for you as floor sealing insulation becomes necessary. Your house will be weaker.
As far as wind damage with pier and beam,
then why are so many built in hurricane proned coastal areas? The underbelly of the floor joist must have an air and vapor barrier as do the floor and ceiling. The snake, rodent issue solved with encapsulating the exterior, subfloor no exception.
@@RICK-uf1jj I'm a builder so I know a thing or two about foundations, I'm not going to recommend a raised flooring system. They are
cheap and nasty and have too many issues which is why no reputable building company recommends that you use them.
If building on unstable north Texas soil, high clay content, which would you prefer, unvented , vented or slab?
@@blake9358There is a house down the road from me built on a pier and beam style foundation, that's over a hundred years old that is still standing strong.
I asked a contractor about this style build for an ADU, and he said that type of foundation doesn't have enough shear strength. Is there any truth to that? I really want the pier and beam foundation for all the pros you mentioned
I have built houses out east. I am from Kentucky and I have also built in Tennessee and Ohio. Lots of pier and beam structures there but I am now living west of Fort Worth Texas and it seems that everything is slab foundatiins and the reason I was given is that the ground is so hard and with the heat in the summer and the cold in the winter, the ground expands and contracts so much that it is a necessity. My question is, would a pier and beam foundation hold up here and, if so, would the concrete piers have to be watered during the summer like the foundations have to be.
Just wanted to thank you for sharing these videos! They're great! We're looking forward to watching them all. Keep at it! By the way, I may have missed it, how deep did you dig the sonotubes into the ground?
Absolutely! I appreciate you checking them out!
Great video! Helpful! I’m looking into using concrete pier foundation for a 16 x 16 off-grid cabin located in the woods in Central NY, and am interested in floor height and vapor barriers.
Can painting the floor joists and ground-facing plywood with house paint or Thompson’s water seal help seal things up?
Others have proposed using plastic, but I’m daunted by the prospect of it getting holes in it and eventually failing.
Also, in moist conditions, how do I find out how high to put the building? I’d like it to go around 1 1/2-2’ off the ground at its highest point.
The land has a slight slope, leading to a lower region that eventually feeds a stream-which will help drainage and drop the overall water table.
How did it go? If it's high enough air flows thru then just use cross grading for any barrier you may want.
What is the overall length and with of your building and do you have a video of a cost break down. We're just started with the planning stage and are looking at the rough cost side of it
Yeah, he doesn't seem to answer everything;
I wish he did; 😓
Love the video! Is this home moveable? I would like to say save money on taxes. I've heard that movable home are not taxed since it is not a permanent structure.
I’m looking into building a pier and beam on the bottom are you still using green pressure treated or just regular construction lumber
Looks solid to me bro. Sonotubes have great load capacity if done correctly. Great job my brother. Looking good. How’s that Flex rear handle with that new battery doing? I bet that things a beast
Dude. The saw is beastly! Absolutely love it and it stays on track really well!
How would you skirt where the round beams peak out of the wall or subfloor ?
My house is frostwall /slab the plumbing goes into attic and down walls. I live in Maine house was built in 86 no issues yet
How bout building a tiny steel home on pier and beam????
I am planning mine, i was thinking concrete piers and either steel or concrete beams, would the flooring be enough give to walk on, using a OSB floorboard? Of course tiled or carpeted over that too
My main concern about pier and beam / crawl space is mold.
I really wanna know more about this too
Maybe the vapor barrier helps
Mold was never an issue until we began enclosing the crawl spaces (around 1948) and learning how insulating can possibly work against you! Pier and beam is more easily ventilated, treated and maintained than slab or enclose foundation. Water pipes and freezing 🥶 s an issue for cold climates, however, the remedy is heavy insulation. Keep wind to minimum with: wind barriers of insulation board with thin plywood
skins, bushes and vegetation, running water and sewer lines in deeper than trenches to below frost plus 18 inches.
I went with pier and raft foundation. Way up in northern MI so will insulate under slab.
How’s your experience? Would you recommend it? I was thinking of doing this in the desert
Jon, have you ever looked into using helical piles instead of concrete piers? We are currently planning for a pier and beam approach using steel piles and steel framing.
Be careful using the steel studs since there really not structural (at least not the -C- shaped ones). They also have issues with condensation if you don’t use the correct material on the exterior/interior. My 2 cents..
Very nice presentation
@Steven Thorkelsen: 40’x60’ Building, how many piers, how wide and how deep. I was thinking 8’-10’ span?
Well done Sir
Appreciate your time
Man! You're like my "spirit" house building guy. You know what I mean.
Thank you !!!
What are you doing to prevent your pipes from freezing?
I am building one of these in TN, I plan on boxing in my pipes then closing up the craw space. I own one of these in MS and all is fine since 1978.
Thank you ❤
did you compact the subsoil before pouring your footers?
No radon worries
Do you think Pier and Beam would be ideal for hurricane zones?
After hurricane Katerina MS required new builds at the beach and in flood zones to be on piers.
I want my piers only 3 inches high from the ground. It will be container units so I want it close to the ground. Any codes against it being so close to the ground?
Call your state or county codes department.
What's the dimensions for the framing you used like how far apart from each other
Does the lumber need to be pressure treated in the pier and beam setup ?
Yes
Id like to see more videos of after
Sounds like there are almost no benefits for Slab versus pier and beam....especially when down the road, external water lines and sewer lines have to be replaced...which can be a huge cost for slab house owners.
I wouldn’t do a pier and beam home in some states. Way too many bugs getting in your home.
How wide were your piers?
How far apart are your piers?
Bruh you can't go under that. Thats too low on the ground.
So good.
Sonotubes are a really good 👍 option.
What about rodent susceptibility?
How do you not know where your plumbing and electric is gonna go ahead of the foundation…? Doesn’t your permit require the actual drawings of this stuff?
Bro. You said you did a bunch of stuff, then said "It's really that simple". I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.
One word... animals
Im not sure what you think your doing but you have no crawl space, no gravel and plastic under the floor you will be jacking up your floor due to settling. Your distance from dirt to floor joist is too close also bus, mice and rot will be your best friend. Have fun insulating as well. If you have a continuous footing for the piers its a good set up added you have a crawl space to keep things dry, mice love to jump up in your insulation and live, and fill it with piss and crap.
Damn Steve appreciate the education l. I had no idea. 🙏🏾 and to anyone reading his educational comment here…never install your moisture barrier before your subs have ran ALL Your plumbing, electrical, spray foam, and anything else that requires people to be crawling under your house. Install it at the very end of your build so you have no punctures or tears. Also the bottom of my beam is 12” above grade. It’s low but it’s code. I appreciate your concern for the well being of my build 🙏🏾
@@JonDawson perfect way to answer.
Just keep in mind, the Code specifies minimum requirements. I’m planning on likely building a pier and beam foundation as well for simplicity and some of the other reasons you mentioned. For access, I’ll likely have it 2’ above grade, since I’m a big guy. 12” is too low for me to comfortably crawl under.
@@ShikokuFoodForestCurious whether you ever built? If so, how did it work out. Im thinking about doing the same. Thanks!
@@boeing757pilot Hello. I’m curious, where you are considering building? I’m Canadian living in Japan. My plan was to return to Canada 🇨🇦 and build where I could most easily afford which was northern BC in a subarctic climate. I’ve changed my mind now - I don’t want to live in 5 months of severe winter! So, no I haven’t built yet. Feel free to ask further questions if you have any.
Great ideas!
pier and beam is king. but you will have to claw around in the dirt like a worm to repair anything. p.s french drain that hill to your right. p.s.s osb is trash after it gets wet. p.s.s.s never mix wood and plastic it will sweat and rot.