How To Salvage Components From Electronics - The Tutorial Guide. Salvaging Cheap Components
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2024
- How to get useful cheap or free electronic components from old scrap devices. What to salvage, how to desolder through hole and SMD components. How to organise and store new and used components. Learn all you need to know in this video.
CHAPTERS
00:00:00 Intro
00:04:10 What to Salvage
00:08:25 Desoldering Through Hole Capacitors
00:13:45 Desoldering Through Hole Connectors
00:32:03 Desoldering BGA
00:36:25 Desoldering SMD MOSFETs
00:39:29 Desoldering Through Hole Inductors
00:42:10 Salvaging ATX Components
00:45:06 Desoldering Through Hole Electrolytics
00:47:28 Desoldering Through Hole Resistors
00:50:27 Desoldering Through Hole Power Semiconductors
00:55:51 Large Electrolytics & Power Resistors
00:57:57 Desoldering Through Hole Diodes
01:02:56 Desoldering Through Hole Transistors
01:07:40 Desoldering OptoIsolators
01:08:33 Desoldering Power Transistors on Heatsinks
01:13:27 Desoldering Through Hole ICs
01:16:27 High Voltage Capacitors
01:17:08 SMD PCB With Integrated Heatsink
01:22:43 SMPS PSU are Useful... Sometimes!
01:29:36 HDD Controllers
01:31:53 Salvaging SMD Electrolytics
01:37:05 Salvaging SMD Connectors
01:48:01 What's In The Stash?
01:49:33 How To Organise & Store Components
02:00:45 Epilogue
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Richard
![ขายสมบัติ Ferrari 488 ลูกรักก!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pwF1Il1Uevw/mqdefault.jpg)
30 years ago, when I first started in electronics and my children were babies - we barely had 2 pennies to rub together. Salvaging components from peoples discarded old TVs and stuff was the only way I could afford to pursue my electronics hobby. Today, I have graduated to smd components , programming microcontrollers, and making my own circuit boards at home. My hunch is that salvaging components is becoming a lost art. Thank you for some fresh salvaging techniques, Richard. Greetings from Canada!
Thank you, and let's keep these arts from being lost - who knows what is around the corner the way the world is going these days
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Ain't that the truth . We just never know.
Very much so. I'm doing a homebrew computer project where I'm only using salvaged parts and I'm having a hard time finding useful chips because everything is a microcontroller nowadays and that just seems like cheating.
“Throw the rest away” = Recycle.
I always try to salvage parts from my old stock before ordering online because it's the easiest to access, fast and cheap. Also as you said, its a form of meditation 😊😊
Like Roman, Greetings from Canada. I was a child in the 1980s. I found a 1960s portable color TV set in the garbage. I couldn't fix it.... "How can a capacitor go bad?" Ignorance and a screwdriver in the hands of an 11-year-old. So I parted it out. I desoldered every single component from every single circuit board and put them in glass jars. I jokingly tried to sell it to my classmates. "Want a color TV? Some assembly required."
For years afterwards, if I needed a resistor, I would dump out the color-TV-in-a-jar and root through it until I found the value I needed. And then back into the jar with the color TV set.
Thank you for making these videos. I really appreciate that you share all of your hard earned knowledge and I love your teaching style.
Personally I love salvaging parts. It's something you can do during meetings on autopilot and it feels good throwing just a little less away. Plus the occasional rare component find can also be exciting.
I've always salvaged components and I still do...recycling has definitely saved me delivery times and component costs 👍
Not to mention it is a lot of fun and really teaches you how to use your desoldering equipment, and it's limitations! 🙂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair nowadays my eyes are the only limitation that's really bugging me 🤓
@@peterferguson2344 My eyesight is really bad without glasses - but, from an old timer, for electronics work just get yourself a microscope (and get a binocular one not one of these USB things)) and you will be amazed at what you can do
@@LearnElectronicsRepair My eyes are starting to hold me back, also. I just might need to brake down and buy a microscope. Which make and model do you use, @Peter Ferguson?
@@romancharak3675 I'm working with just the aid of an illuminated magnifying glass, as times are hard and money is limited but the fun must go on
🤓🛠 👍
One technique I use when doing this is to snap or cut the PCB into smaller pieces, trying not to damage the components you want, as this reduces the thermal mass of the board, and you don't have to put as much heat into it to get the parts out. This is especially true with PCBs that have a ground plane.
I've not tried that but it would certainly work. Personally, if I find something with heavy ground/power planes I use a preheater
I've used that technique to good advantage, also.
Yes salvaging can be quite nice and essential to do once again
Some good tips and tricks, and some good rationale for the choice of each of the classes of parts. Thanks!
Luckily, power supplies are generally small enough that I just keep the whole board and store them in a box (label them from where they came from). Easy enough to yank out and pull the part you need, rather than spend all day pre-pulling parts... for me anyway. Great video, as usual!
Great video! Thanks for all the knowledge.
I loved the bit where you go through your stock of parts. I was expecting you to open a drawer with a reflex klystron in it that you de-soldered from a satellite communications terminal. 😁
Thank You for sharing these great videos !!!!!! You have a great way of explaining things for us learners !!!!! And you keep things entertaining at the same time !!!!!! Love your laugh !!!!!! anyhow just wanted to chime in and Thank You Sir !!!!!
At 1:26:48 just when you are wondering what that component is the camera catches a quick glimpse of the fuse symbol on the PCB! LOL! Thank you for the great video Richard!
Oh snap, 0:01:57 into this video and everything you said, i do, say or have attempted to explain to another person who unfortunately and ultimately just ends up staring at me with a dull blank expression which in real time belies they're attempt to conceal the fact that they have not comprehended one bit of the technical language I've spoken to them. (If you were asked them they would 100% refer to it as gibberish and not technical language)
Wow, you are me, dude. I am you!
Great plan
My mom always naggs me ..oh why do you need this trash ect..And I say mom,its not trash its electronics...They are spare parts .....hehe :) Nice channel,keep up the good work.
True it's very therapeutic
Thanks for the vid, I just use an old hotplate and shake things off the board, you have a lot of patience, also using some braided copper will loosen the components and make most just fall through, it's very fast and efficient.
Great video
I've done a lot of this as a kid, never did anything with the parts but it was fun. Once in a while I'll still salvage some parts, if I really don't care about the board I'll take my 1.5kw heat gun to the back side of the board and heat it pretty much til it blisters, then give it a tap and a lot of the components I'd want will just fall off. quick, easy and yes, a bit dirty
Thankyou!
Saw the video this morning and figured I'd strip some boards while watching it this evening. Lots of excellent tips! I did catch something I hope I can pass along. The smd electrolytics at t 1:32:15 can be removed with just a pair of pliers. If you're careful you can save them, otherwise if they break, it is what it is. This is what I'm referring to /watch?v=X8N9O3a9jiM&t=100s
Yeah I have seen them removed with pliers - but when I try it they usually break
I've started using a micro blow lamp ,pretty quick for this kind of work with just a bit of flux👍
Hi Richard.
What I do is not unsolder everything individually. Instead, I harvest the components by cutting around the PCB with a sturdy pair of tin shears. SMDs I cut into clusters. I now have boxes of different components (on small pieces of PCB-board that I will unsolder when I need something from them. Another advantage is that the components do not get in each other's way during removal, but more importantly, it is also easier to find the solder point on the back of the PCB. This only takes a few minutes.
Another tip is that if it is more convenient to remove a heat sink, to simply cut its legs. Those are always made of (magnetic) soft iron, unlike the more brittle aluminum of the heat sink itself. This coasts a few seconds, while if you want to solder loose you spend longer looking for the right solder point, and have to remove the solder tin.
Let's see the semiconductor analyzer video. That tool is awesome
Richard, if you take the fume fan that you made, reverse the fan direction so it pulls the fumes though the funnel, and strap a charcoal filter on the flat outlet end of the fan, you will have made yourself a diy fume extractor. The charcoal filter material is quite cheap and can be purchased in a large sheet that you can cut to size for your diy fan extractor. Simple zip ties can be used to strap the filter to the fan. Cheers.
This sounds like a fun project - thanks for the idea 😁
Explains why that is not enough: th-cam.com/video/j4_SzzorYn4/w-d-xo.html
I think the elusive ST25C marked TO-92 packaged part is a current shunt regulator similar to the GM432 (which is also hard to come by).
Heya, salvaging part to use for repair is a good job so they just don't go in to the dump and it's a good way to learn soldering/desoldering.
I notice too that the flux you are using is expired by about 2 years. I bought the gel type flux earlier this year and never knew it had an expiry date and it went out in July. Glad to see that it is still useable for you.
If the chip shortage supply chain gets worse, you could go into the business of chip supplier. Quite impressive inventory system you have.
Should’ve tried the wick with the THC much easier good video although 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Hi Rich, do you have a good place to cross reference some of the SMD components that you find. Recently I find so many SMD semiconductors with just a number like 01 or M22 and it can be difficult to find out what they are and data sheets for the components. Other than a basic web search with fingers crossed.
Oh them memories in the good ol' days before RS and Maplins, I cut my teeth on a Commodore Pet I salvaged from a metal yard near to me, think I was ten or eleven and what a labour of pain that became armed with my trusty "How to" book on electronics, a nasty live ex GPO soldering iron, plumbers solder and flux and months of scavenging through scrounged radios, hi-fi's, tellies just to find those magic caps or resistors etc and then one day it was all done, powered on and perfect operation. I sold it to an office for a veritable small fortune back then and set to fixing a 8088 IBM and that was a success too, then me mum bought me one of Sir Clive's ZX80 kits and boy was I tested with that firestarting PIA, nowadays I doubt I could solder for toffee as so out of practice but back in the 70's it was the challenge that made it fun :D
17:23 I think this is a combined eSATA & USB port. My Dell Worksation from back in 2012 have this port also, but i am using it only as another USB port.
It's a good use for that garbage solder you get from c???? that you thought was a good buy but is useless for soldering ;) Great for desoldering
c???? ?
@ 10:01 I 2 use plastic food trays;... those that go in the oven...
Any that R likely 2 melt do 2 heat from components;... then a place Tin Foil in the tray bottom 1st...
Cool...Those Connectors like Drawing Teeth..
That white component is a bi metallic thermal fuse.
Experience has shown that lower wattage irons are more likely to ruin stuff on old boards. A good iron will maintain tip temp when heating solder pads, and transfer the heat accordingly, locally, rather than burning things up. Temperature-controlled tips are great for assembly and manufacturing, but for wrecking and salvaging, a nice hot tip lets you get in and out of there before too much heat migrates into the surrounding material, burning things up. In decades of stripping and depopulating boards, I have never seen the hotter tips burn anything up, unless the user was inexperienced or had been drinking...
26:10 - The technical term for this device is the DE9 connector.
I went to goodwill and bought a. Electric skillet I set the board in it , when replacing customer parts I use a soldier sucker.
Hi Do you come across a TOP254GN IC OFFLINE SWITCHER i have a blown one on a bosch induction hob i believe caused from a power surge cheers
My notes: I would keep the hard drive controllers intact since they can serve for referencing components of burned boards. Also those chunky diodes tend to fail now and then. Those boards are keepers they will be handy in the future.
I would agree for recent ones but these were from old low capacity (by modern standards) SATA drives. However like you say, they are small and easy to keep so whatever floats you boat 😉
I don't desolder anything. I just cut the circuit boards with snips (aviation snips). I use the little square of pcb and glue it onto a wood board and build circuits that way.
Yeah I have to agree with you on the board a good old thick one is one good one to keep but this crap that's coming out of China now they're so thin that's half the problem to get Mormon something burns out and it bad hotspot I won't save them for a bit that's why I take pair of tin snips a good sharp pair and I cut out anything I want but when I run across the good old board and be a breadboard for me, cuz I truly am enjoying learning how to do this stuff one step at a time and gets better and better and and it's just fun just decent be playing with and learning something new that just doesn't physically where your posterior out.
Get yourself a fume extractor and good ventilation in your workshop if you are salvaging / desoldering components. The invisible toxins being released (lead, Plastic, paint etc) while desoldering using hot air will eventually affect your breathing and could lead to other health problems later in life especially vision.
That is one problem in my workshop, it has no external doors or windows, it's in a shopping centre. The aircon seems to do a pretty good job of keeping the air breathable
Ventilation is key.
Leave an exhaust fan on, to remove bad air. Usually a bathroom exhaust fan.
@@joeshmoe7899 What your suggestion and other similar ones does not adequately address or explain is the fact that I've been doing this since the early 1970s, worked in a large workshop with well over 100 engineers doing component level repair for over 6 years without a fume extractor or even an open window in sight and I'm STILL HERE.
Before getting into the in's and out's of all this, can someone please explain how I survived working in such hazardous conditions for decades, then after we've sorted that out maybe we can start to discuss how many more years I can expect to add to my remaining lifespan by changing the way I work 🙂
@Learn Electronics Repair Doing it forever does not mean doing it right, however i tend to think that those were suggestions, not orders, i fact, they could be saying it from experience too, as you do, as a professional you musk know that those advices are there to keep the average of diseases low, does not mean you will or wont get a breathing problem, but the possibility is there, if you do not get it, fine, but if you get it, most likely it was because the lack of prevention
I know i am getting a little bitchy here but being old and having good health are not excuses to be a jerk, i like what you do for us as apprentices and hope you could live more to keep doing it, just remember, lots of factors intervene at getting a disease, you are probably one of the lucky ones, but that is not the reality for everyone
great salutes for you and your friend from Retro Upgrade
@@adaneitor No you are not being bitchy, and probably I was being a jerk. I think really the point I was making is that there are well known and documented cases of vocational or industrial hazards that caused a lot of premature deaths in later years (mercury poisoning from the milliner trade and asbestos from the building trade are probably the most high profile examples) and if there was some considerable health hazard specifically from solder/flux fumes it would be very well known about by now, the legal cases would already be settled, and/or a lot more of us would be dead.
I would offer the likelyhood that living in a large city (as I used to do) is more hazardous due to what you are inhaling outdoors, than having the clean fresh air of living on a small island just above the tropics as I do now, and doing some risky desoldering on occasion. Whenever I go back to the UK, just walking around town smells like being on a petrol station forecourt for the first few days and the locals don't even notice it. That can't be good for people yet no one there thinks it is going to harm them, or even considers it from what I observe, it's just normal it seems.
I learn a lot watching your video, so respect for you, but why don't you cut those wires off to get them and other things that are easy to cut and get out of the way??
The other reason why I like to cut my components out with a pair of short tin snips is because we all know that those leads on the bottom or pretty short by the time we get him out anyways and I got tired of going to the drawer where I had things stored at, reach in and get what I needed you know in the bin, might've been something that I took time to salvage when them little bitty beads fell out of the bottom and it all felt like a waste of time so I'd leave that I cut it off nice and neat and around a capacitor cut it nice and neat around a transformer whatever it is and when you reach into that drawer and get it then you can be solder-it after that because all those little leads are going to still be there if you leave the board on I just trim it nice and neat to the shape of whatever I'm cutting out, now these boards coming out of China they're not worth a hoot they're not worth who were the dime you look at them boards you see a hotspot easy
31:10 you should be a dentist Richard lol
When removing the HDMI Ports etc, I was surprised you never added some leaded/low-melt solder. Granted, it takes more time.
Ironically watched another min, and you say pretty much that 🤣😂
You got me on something now you Rascal haven't you, I thought the spread sheet, data base was a good idea a searchable one, instead of my old note book, so far I'm on line 327 of different components that's just Chips & Fet's, & Semi's not looking forward to the diodes, upside is I've found lots of components I'd forgotten about, I've no need to buy anything for years to come, so I forgive you.
Hahaha I see I have fed your OCD tendencies some what. I think rascal was probably deserved LOL 😁😁😁
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Yes Richard, my OCD is on fire🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👌👌
I notice that you basically short the electrolytic caps with a solder blob before removing them. I tend to short them through a large, high wattage resistor (2k/500w 20k/50w) with a voltmeter in parallel first, to minimise the damage to the salvaged caps. It does get fiddly however and when I remove a lot of them with the same distance between the pins, I usually make a little jig so I can touch both pins at once.
I use my tongue to short the capacitors.
@@Ynalawtry your taint.
Nice tutorial, thank you!
What do you do to remove components that are glued, or have that nasty _glue_ blobs on them? Any tips? Thanks again
Honestly I have never found this problem - if someone wants to send me a PCB like that email me electronicanaria@outlook.com and I will even pay the postage just to see what I can do with it 🙂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Thanks for your reply. I don't have any at hand currently but I'll try to find one
Agree, they are a nightmare. I have particularly come up against this when dismantling server power supplies. Good quality components but very tough to remove with that darn red glue underneath them.
For me the only boards I’ve seen are iPhone/iPad logic boards. Just about every component have this red glue under them to keep them from potentially falling off when phone is dropped vs relying solely on solder. I’ve seen it on some auto PCBs in high vibration areas. I’ve found that the heat used to desolder is generally enough to release the bond. But it’s a fine line as you risk damaging other parts. I have used foil or chunks of aluminum to mask off and block the heat from the parts I don’t want to come undone. I use a big tip on hot air or a PCB pre heater and then switch to a smaller dia tip to concentrate heat where it needs to be.
@@Diebog Thanks for your reply. I'm trying different ways nowadays, like a similar hot method, but also acetone or IPA, depending on the blob nature.
Curious why you didn’t at least start with the desoldering tool (suctioning). So far my experience at worked quite well.
Richard just released a new video where he revisited the solder sucker and liked it! Before that video he thought they were useless, mostly because he had an old faulty one that didn’t work most of the time.
All nice Richard how you store things, pretty much like me, but I'm thinking I have more than I'm gonna ba able to use in my entrie life so I'm thinking what;'s best is to organize a LIBRARY of sorts (of course you take not borrow) but give freely,and if someone is PARTICULARLTY NEEDY they have to "contribute" to remain a library member. ;) Make sense man? Why should we be wasteful (as we parts scavengers are clearly NOT) by dying with our "goods" going to waste? Duzzn make sense!
That sounds like a fantastic idea - maybe we should put something together on the LER discord server 😁
ST "2sc945p" - it's split over two lines - it'd have been better had they put C945P on the 2nd line... pretty common NPN transistor - looks like yours is rather open circuit probably pretty soon after the other transistors went short :)
Thanks for the info
would it much more fast and ez to you add flux on joints of parts which you taking down ? i mean flux will make part much faster to take out or i am wrong ? Ty
It may be a matter of personal preference. But the idea seems basically a bit wasteful and messy. Think of flux as a way to prevent oxide formations that prevent heat conduction and clean solder flow and bond. Cheers!
Can you use a hot plate as a heat board? You can adjust the temperature. What's the temperature of the heat board?
I use a little travel trousers iron.
what temp do u set the hot air to?
It’s 450 at the 15min example
would it not be quicker desoldering the heavy solder point first, use the hot air for smaller points?
On which part of the video?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair removing the sockets from mainboard
@@reklaw3603 Yeah maybe - though they did come off pretty well without doing that - as you saw every single one survived though the PS2 connector was slightly melted underneath
For me is also therapeutic
Absolutely 100%
I've just removed a faulty SMD capacitor with my soldering iron and when I looked at my Smart Meter electricity usage display, it turns out that it would have been cheaper to buy a new computer. ;)
hahaha Good point - try powering your soldering station from solar panels. Or your car battery 😉
Made me laff :O)
@ 56:10 I can't understand what he was saying. The captioning doesn't help either
Get thin leather tig welding gloves which are not that expensive to prevent burnt fingers
do you have a shop where we can send GPUs to be fixed ?
Sure, email me electronicanaria@outlook.com Fixed fee repairs and no fix no fee
@58:44 Do as I do, block those numbers and they can't call again... mwahahaha
I'm starting to get a lot of UK numbers... is it you??
😂🤣
Libraries have eliminated the card filing system, for computers. Those old filing cabinets would be handy.
Yes they would
eSATA? Connector after the HDMI.
Yeah could be
Some boards simply will not give up their components. There have been times I’ve had a board in the vice and used the heat gun to heat it up until the board was literally on fire, and the solder was still solid and would not release the parts. Must be that lead-free crap.
Yeah I've experienced this, particularly with some laptop motherboards trying to remove the USB connectors... lol. What a nightmare xD
49:04 NEVER EVER USE LASER for something like this and look at laser beam. It will/can damage you eyes before you manage to blink.
Use regular lamp if u have to.
1:28:46 Both "st25c" and "945p" are transistors.
1:37:56 When desoldering plastic connectors, some may have lower melting temperature than solder, so if directly heated like this, its advisable to use solder flux. Even home made and cheap flux of 96% alcohol + rosin is better than nothing.
One thing that is not mentioned, when salvaging parts, its good to have pneumatic desoldering tool, even cheap one from aliexpress works well, heat to melt solder and click button to suck tin.
PS. Richard, any plans to upgrade cameras to full HD/HI res/hi quality (NOT 4K, just HI quality 1080p)? Overall it is visible, but sometimes something is barely visible.
Considering 40k subs, I think its time to do it. Cheers.
I know a fair bit about lasers having run mobile discos using fairly powerful ones (1.5W plus) The amount of light that comes through a PCB is not a lot. But this is a fair point you make.
Thanks on the ST25C transistor - I have see them before, just couldn't remember what the were
I tend not to use flux when salvaging parts like this to keep fumes down. The method I used actually surprised me in how well it worked. Also if you notices, I was not directly heating the SMD connectors at 01:37:56 an dI did mention this - I was heating the PCB a centimeter or so behind the connector and letting the heat soak into the board. I also mentioned before I tried that I would probably need a preheater to do it, though this turned out not to be the case, at least on these boards.
Regards cameras - the one above the bench and the one on the microscope are both 1080p HD but I am intending to replace the overhead bench camera soon with a 4K UHD camera, then use the existing 1080p to replace the inset/insttruments camera as the webcam I am using isn't very good. I think the microscope camera which is also 1080p works pretty well to be honest, but if using a 4K overhead camera works well I will also upgrade the microscope cam as well. Whether my recording PC can handle 4K capture I will no doubt find out 😉 You should be watching my videos in 1080p 30fps now (are you selecting the HD in the YT video player?) and they should look pretty good TBH
The cameras are C Mount, the one over the bench has a 5mm-50mm manual zoom lens
I've been mostly concentrating on improving the sound quality - I think I have it pretty good now
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Dont even bother with 4K recordings on workbench. Its not worth and its way too much in any possible means. 99.99% of viewers do not have 4K monitors. Playing 4K video on 1080p is useless.
I am selecting 1080, but quality its simply in zone of "somewhat blured" not in "crystal clear".
When it comes to cameras, resolution is only one factor... two cameras can work on HD resolution, but one will still be blurry while other one is crystal clear.
Just do a good research before investing into anything, to make it good for long time.
@@orion310591RS Yeah thanks I will look in to it. One of the biggest problems i have so far is the 1080p camera over the workbench can focus very well in the center of the viewing field but blurs at the edges. I would still like to to do the whole 4K thing though
Never removed a flex cable connector without totally melting it so I don't even bother anymore. I hate anything made in plastic...
🤣😂
LOL You're not even salvaging until you're using a propane torch. Set it to low but reliable, and duty cycle moderate the heat. You can clear whole boards in short order when you're in practice with this, I can't imagine salvaging parts one at a time with an extractor..
hehehe that sounds like fun
Propane.....what's that? I use my trusty old petrol blowlamp ;-)
ST2SC945 = Toshiba 2SC945 . It's no "ST25" the 5 is an "S".
i salvage everything, nothing escape
The more he touches the components on PCB board the more I feels pain watching without using ESD strap on 😢.
HI Im sorry to say, you need new glasses. It is not a st25c it is st2Sc a npn silicon epitaxial planar transistor......
Hi Richard, just a good hint here, for this kind of work, instead of hot air you really should use a Solder Pot for fast and easy Salvage Components. See it in action here: watch?v=b-Dxnh5nbzY&t=140s
The TH-cam link you posted didn't work for me, but I found this video. th-cam.com/video/b-Dxnh5nbzY/w-d-xo.html
I've thought of getting a solder pot, though I do have a few concerns. One is accidentally knocking it over on the desk while molten and the other is how useful it is for double sided (components on both sides) boards.
Double sided works the same when it comes to semi-conductors ... only components with plastic housing or holders but they usually have solderings on the other side
Wow, never seen that before and i even have one for my bullet casting for reloading ammo. That looks really fast and efficient. Thanks for the idea. I watched it here: th-cam.com/video/b-Dxnh5nbzY/w-d-xo.html