Creating a common guard shape.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- in this video I shape the first part of the Rolls Royce rear guard, creating one of the most common shapes you see in a guard/fender. I also give some valuable tips on shrinking dies and selecting the right English wheel anvil.
Your format and video production is perfect. Don't change a thing.
Ayden tou make it look so easy, I'll see you at Motorretro soon,, Google the MSDS on window cleaner its a Neurotoxin dont get in on your skin.
Love your work
thank you for the video
The format actually doing the work and the talk over makes the process faster to watch and less painful than some f the detailed stop start jumping forward type productions. I really like the stop and sharing the tips and hints, this is a nice addition and very helpful and adds to the running commentary format
Excellent work. Would it be possible to do a reverse curve in the English wheel? It's just that most home hobbyist don't have a power hammer. Thx
Maate! Awesome presentation. As a beginner in metal shaping, your tips are very helpful. Just a couple of questions. What thickness sheet are you using? And , you seemed to work that panel quite a bit without annealing, or is that process not needed in this application?
Love to know your thoughts. Keep up the great work.
Thanks mate, 1.6mm 5005 aluminium, I haven’t found the need for annealing with anything I’ve done, maybe it could but I’ve always found it easy enough to shape, the panel will also anneal abit when the guard gets welded.
I like how you're doing the videos. The commentary is great and really keeps it interesting. I wish I could do work like this for a living...
The format is great but a small bit now and again in real time would be helpful as well. For example when you’re using the thumbnail dies, it would be nice to get a sense of the speed and rhythm you’re using. Thanks for taking the time to share!
Hi would it be possible to say how long the panel took to make and the grade of aluminium and thickness.
it's great having these videos on TH-cam as they're always available to watch over and over again. i am very happy with your current presentation format, no change required. the comment/tip on lower anvil radius selection was a gem, i've always been wheeling the "long" way. thanks Aden.
Thank you, glad that was able to help, it’s something I’ve come across so much with people using a higher crown wheeling the long radius so much, I guess it makes sense until you break it down further
I really like this format of video, it's straight to the point and keeps a long process interesting. Great video keep it up! Thank yoy
Really enjoy your workflow. I'm a new metalshaper and the point you made about using the flatter radius and going crosswise on the panel made a whole lot of sense. I'd love to see the process of working a door skin, both adding the slight crown to the panel and turning the edge over onto the door frame (that's where I'm about to be at with in my own build!)
Thank you mate, I’m glad that was able to help and provide some insight, I do have a video for a door skin though it won’t have the tipped edges in it yet.
Nicely done !
Hail the algorithm!
Takes a while to develop your presentation style. Incredible skills here
Yep good stuff mate. Just as youre doing is fine for this kiwi. Good work
What is the technique as you run the material through the thumbnail dies? Do you pull down on the front edge of the metal or or do you send it in flat and try to pull it out as flat as possible and let the dye do the work
In flat, small adjustment of the elbow tilting down then out flat, want to create the radius with lots of little flats, if you roll your hands down as you pull out I find it forces the material a way it doesn’t want and can create harsh puckers, particularly as you get further to the end, it is also not as consistent to do the same amount of movement each time so prefer the die to do the work
Just keep ‘em coming
I like the format👍
Beautiful work
Hello Ayden, you have a very interesting video series there. Lots of good tips...very helpful. Respect for your good work! Good tip on how far to work with the thumb nails. What distance do you set between the thumb nail tools, it needs some air so the material can thicken as it shrinks. Is there a kind of "rule of thumb / basic rule" at which intervals one shrinks? And if it is to shrink deeper, in how many "levels" to put the shrinkage? Some people draw very precise grids on the sheet metal and run their shrinkage as if according to a system. When you shrink, do you have a rule for how much you shrink the material? It must have shrunk more because it expands again when smoothed with the wheel or power hammer. Greetings Jan
I really like these sped-up video with voice over. I'd like to see a couple of little asides where you show a close up of the panel and say "It's not right here, so i'll do this here to fix it" just to get a handle on what you're looking for and how you decide how to fix it. It's noticing and catching those small defects and fixing them before they become big problems that makes for a good panel.
Hello. Are your lower anvils true radius or do they have flats?
The most popular way that panel would be done in the UK, would be in 2 parts & welded on the tight radius. Very little shrinking or stretching needed, as the power hammer is not a common machine here. If I did have a power, maybe I'd try shrinking both faces to try & keep the panel thickness more consistent. Nice job, keep up the good work mate
Reason for not shrinking on the front face is that it doesn’t have much shape, in my opinion it’s creating work on a face that doesn’t require it. If it had more radius definitely could.