Great video Chris. I really didn't see a path to making this repair without major surgery, but I didn't understand exactly how the truss rod fit in. So relieved to be getting it back next week! I'll never wet those hydrator pucks again!!! What a problem that caused...
Do you feel like the sound of the guitar has changed at all? Full disclaimer I know NOTHING about making or repairing guitars, but I wonder if the cracks below the neck joint changed the quality of the sound of the top of the body.
@@alessandropintus I wouldn't expect any change in sound, outside of the fact that the strings are now lower because it has had a proper setup. As the builder noted, the wood that was removed during the fretboard extension removal was just above the truss rod channel. It doesn't vibrate and produce sound like the main top.
Whenever I build a custom guitar I usually add a sacrificial veneer under the fingerboard just in case the fingerboard ever needs to be removed. I usually use a colored veneer to add a nice contrasting pinstripe down the neck, which looks great as well.
A while back Stewmac had a problem with some of their truss rods, I had purchased some and they contacted me and shipped out replacements. I had only used one in a customer guitar, and that hasn't broken. You may check with them and see if your client's rod was from the batch with which they had problems.
Michigan we have dry winters, and fairly humid summers. Get yourself a "whole house humidifier", we have an Aprilaire unit. And, get yourself a dehumidifier. We have a semi-portable stand-a lone GE unit that has a long tube we drain into the sink. Finally, get yourself a good hygrometer. (AcuRite off Amazon has been working good) The whole house humidifier will only get the house up to around 35 to 38% in the winter, so we supplement it with a portable humidifier. Set on low, the tank of water lasts about 24hrs. The end goal is to keep our Yamaha Grand piano where the hygrometer sits, at around 45%. In the summer, the goal is the same. The house air conditioning system does a pretty good job, but the music room can get up to 60%, so we use the dehumidifier to keep it down to around 45%. It sounds like a hassle, but once you're into a routine, it's easy.
Agree in colorado we dont have moisture. I would like to know what you do when you ship from dry to humid time zones. Also on a new guitar what do you tell the client about storing a new guitar 😎👍
@@lifeofalex9199 I think he means guitars with similar setups to this guitar. Maybe the truss rod isn't easily "removeable", but the genius of this builder's design shows how installing truss rods in a bolt-on design, facing the soundhole, may make for easier repairs. If other builders install their truss rods and necks this way, it should technically work on those models as well. If this was a Fender, you'd have to drill out the wooden collars and cut into the first fret on in order to even see what was wrong. This guy just pulled off the neck and inserted a new rod. It's brilliant!
What I don't see mentioned is part of the easy removal and replacement is because with a the StewMac dual action truss rod, the cavity where the truss rod sits is flat unlike a traditional truss rod where the cavity is curved. Still the same procedure, but flat and straight makes the job more "straight" forward...
idk much about glidecote, if it dries or anything, but a tip ive learned for stuff like this that you want to slide in but dont want to remain lubricated, even the opposite, is to use hairspray. Soak the thing in hairspray, its super slick while wet but dries tacky and helps hold the item in place afterward.
The bow after you inserted the truss rod had me! Well done! That was an incredibly clean repair! It's just so nice to see something like this go so smoothly. So many channels I follow show repairs of this nature, and they end up requiring a ridiculous amount of time and effort. Your work is clearly very precise. That was awesome to see!
This happened to me with another brand of truss rod- the weld failed. I got it re welded with the truss rod in place without damaging the finish!!! It’s a Heart stopper
By 4:12 i see a nightmare coming. marquetry so close to the end of the fretboard is not going to help anything. I havn't got past the 4:12 mark but my approach might be to laminate the fretboard in multi layers of veneer tape or a removeable light canvas like I do when a marquetry inlayed top on a desk is in need of repair it stablizes all the peices and temperary fuses them together while work is done. now back to the show. Oh I was the coming home band that commented on the BZ Rosewood. interesting but the frets may work like clamps to help hold the marquetry inplace. I am watch every second spray KY jelly LOL. Very nice job you should be proud.
That was absolutely incredible. I'm an amateur guitar builder. I've built - and later repaired -about a dozen guitars and ukes for myself and my family, but my work is far from professional or artistic. I am amazed how calm and good humored you remained through out this repair. I would have been freaking out trying to separate the fretboard and pulling out the truss rod. I'm sure I would have also destroyed the finish. Thankyou for show us how a real pro can repair what appears to be a train wreck, and not throw a tantrum in the process.
I once read a suggestion to only apply glue in a narrow bead around the outside edge of the fingerboard. With a bolt on neck, this would be sufficient to hold the fingerboard to the soundboard and make removal at a later date easier. Thoughts?
Over the course of building 147 custom guitars, I've had two clients who thought they knew how to set up their guitars, but succeeded only in stripping out the truss rod nut, or breaking the truss rod entirely, both of which required a full-on neck deconstruction, truss rod transplant, rebuild, and refinish job. I've had many other customers who likewise had no idea what they were doing, and got their guitars so far out of whack that a professional had to be conscripted to haul them back from the edge of disaster. That's why I always make a very emphatic point of educating the new owners of my guitars on the purpose and function of the truss rod. I have a three page long treatise on the issue that I include with the other "Care and Feeding" info I provide with each new guitar. In bold type, I wrote, "I cannot warrant repair or set-up work done by anyone other than myself. If you are not 100% sure you know exactly what you're doing, please take your guitar to a qualified guitar repair tech for any adjustments..." Taking apart a neck to remove and replace a damaged truss rod is a giant pain in the ass, and it's EXPENSIVE. So my advice to all luthiers is, gently teach the people who buy your guitars how to NOT screw them up royally. An awful lot of people consider themselves to be experts at things they have no reality-based concept of. If a guy says, "Oh yeah, the truss rod is for adjusting the action of the guitar..." that should send up a red flag right away.
One trick I use with my spatulas is to turn them bottom side up and run them on a buffing wheel. It gives the edge a slight radius and tends to hold the blade tight to the bottom of the fretboard.
Phenomenal approach to repairing the guitar. My 1st thought was to tack weld the nut back on to the truss rod, but I didn't realize the truss rod could be removed in this way. Game changer!
I would love a humidification video! I am just starting my first ever guitar build thanks in huge part to your videos, and I am always interested in learning more. Thank you for anyways being so clear and all encompassing with your instructional videos.
Have you considered heating up the blade you use to remove the end of the fret board rather than heating up the fret board? It may save the inlays on the fret board.
Glad to see it's OK to use a carpenter's claw hammer for repairs on even high-end guitars. Now I don't have to feel guilty when I do guitar repairs with a framing hammer and a chain saw. Thanks!
You use what you have I ha seen amazing repairs with tools and by people that your heart is beating out of your chest and boy oh boy oh boy they are masters when you gong the right luthier you find a master
I've just had exact same problem with that Stewmac double action truss rod. It felt stiff but literally just sheered off. Luckily the guitar isn't finished so I can get the fingerboard off and replace the truss rod. Annoying though.
Here's why I so appreciate this: 1) I bought my first guitar decades ago. I knew about the truss rod adjustment. But I never actually understood how it works until you showed me. 2) Gorgeous inlay work. 3) You're a real craftsman- and you explained your tools and techniques. Thank you!
Nice repair, made easier by using a bolt/screw on neck. Smart planning, and proof that you don't need to have a glued neck joint. I'm sure you're feeling pretty good about how things went. It would have been tempting to just weld back the end of the truss rod, but by removing it, you made the right decision and were able to see just how overtightened the rod was. Good lessons for everyone.
I replaced a truss rod that's anchored at both ends from a Gibson Earl Scruggs Standard banjo neck, without removing the fretboard, by drilling just enough wood out at each end to get it to move out the heel end. When I put the new single action rod in I glued blocks into the neck to secure the rod at the ends. No finish repairs or board removal!
Chris there are places that offer Micro Welding of several types such as arch and laser. It is an opposition you can consider now. I hope this helps. BTW I am going down the sound hole. Just got these a few days ago. The Guitar Player Repair Guide Paperback - December 15, 2007; by Dan Erlewine and TUOREN 61Pieces Complete Guitar Repairing Tool Kit with Ruler Gauge Measuring Tool Hex Wrench Files Fingerboard Guard Grinding Stone Guitar Gift for Acoustic Electric Guitar & Bass Banjo.
About a year ago, I saw several guys all have this issue with Stewmac Hot Rod truss rods. Even had a couple in my guitars snap. I've since switched to LMI's truss rods.
Hi Chris & Matt! I've been fixing guitars for 20 years or so and Ive built several. Mostly electrics with only 6 acoustics under my belt...4 1/2 that I'm really proud of. I have watched countless videos on guitar this and that but you guys get nearly all of my attention for the past couple of years because of the knowledge you have and share freely and I'll bet nearly everyone watching ya'll really, really appreciate that! I searched your channel for engraving/inlays but didn't see it so I'm just gonna ask if you could link me up somehow..IF you have in depth videos of that. If not would you consider making some. In one of your videos you said you didn't use cnc but rather did them by hand since "it was easy" or something like that. However you do it they are simply awesome! thanks ';
There are some people who don't understand the mechanics of a double action truss rod. Maybe you could explain how it functions to your client and how it differs from the original truss rod.( assuming that the problem was not a badly made truss rod) 👍Nice Guitar. 👍
Probably wouldn't hurt to warm up the tool also if you're worried about the glue cooling. Seems like it would help warm up areas that are resistant to heating evenly.
At least! I would have been clenching so hard, fearfully anticipating the sound of the fretboard or top cracking that I would have ruptured or herniated something, for sure.
No lie! I was going to ask for a humidification/ dehumidification video on guitars not just for a shop but for the ones we store at home/ studios would love that
I am just a home DYIer that loves guitars. I was wondering, if you were to put RED locktite and thread the nut back on could you have reduced the tension on the truss rod back to normal? Or even coated the threads with JB Weld and rethreaded the rod. Would that have done the same thing as tack welding the nut on?
Nice work man. I would have the whole instrument broken apart and after a week of work I would be crying in the corner of the room 😂😂😂... Very clean and elegant solution for a complex problem!
So question about humidification: Would having a whole house humidifyer on your HVAC be good enough for guitars or do you need something specifically in your guitar room or individual cases etc?
I use a Boneco humidifier in my music room to keep RH at 50% year round. (We live in a dry area and use wood and electric furnaces over the winter. Really sucks the moisture out of the air.) Sure makes a difference when it comes to tone and action. Guitars stay in tune. Good thing about the Boneco is that it has a heat plate that boils the water so you get steam not ultrasonic mist. And it kills bacteria. Had a mister type before that and despite cleaning it on a regular basis with hot soapy water and a bit of bleach, a pinkish biofilm had developed. As in pneumococcus. Discovered that after a whole winter of getting sick with one 'cold' after another. Junked that unit. With the Boneco, I use pure white vinegar every couple of weeks to remove any calcification on the heat plate. And sterilize the whole unit. Yup, I've got my two pneumonia shots but why go through that? Learned about humidification the hard way with a '74 or so herringbone D-28. Flew from Vancouver to northern BC in winter which meant a humidity drop from coastal to bone dry. And from 0 C down to -20. Left the guitar in the case for a whole day and then just unsnapped the case and let the guitar sit for another half day, as advised by the Victoria shop where I bought it. Then took it out to play. When I rested my elbow on the side of the guitar thinking what to play, there was an awful POP. A 12 inch crack in the side running from bout to bout. I've got a small fortune in guitars and other instruments in as new condition. Couple of hundred bucks for a good humidifier is a small price to pay. Especially when the alternative is cracks and repairs.
Man you really do make pieces of art to the eye and ear, had my doubts how a guitar could be worth 25k but one look and your website and saw that Johnny Cash inlay ( I love the man in Black) worth every cent. Love ya work watched few of your videos always well produced, honest and charismatic, love from Australia, subscribed 👍🏆
Well... That went just as planned! I was thinking silver solder when I saw it, although I generally weld all my own truss rods. I was right there with you when you wanted to fire up the welder.
The beauty of going in and fixing a guitar you made yourself, is that chances are subconsciously you made it with repairs in mind. Many Luthier's do that without realizing it. This makes reparing them much easier. Excellent work Chris! The ease of this repair is definitely due to your expertise in building it to begin with. Don't sell yourself short. This was all due to your excellent workmanship to start with.
What are your thoughts about applying the heat from inside the sound hole on the under side of the fret board. Is there too much bracing material for the heat to adequately penetrate into the glue joint. Thoughts or opinions? DEFCON Pucker Factor 1
That was a great example of how, like you said, thinking outside the box and luck play such an important role in this type of trade. Also, I was pleased to see someone as experienced as yourself still have doubt and surprise about the outcome. One thing I’ve always said to my colleagues is to never be afraid of trying unconventional solutions to unique problems. A honest take into the life of a tech, great video!
I know this is all done, but if there is inlay on the neck where you need to heat it, maybe put the heat on the underside through the sound hole? You know, think inside the box. 🙂
I'd like to see an episode about humidification. I recently watched a repair guy go off about how you SHOULDN'T humidify instruments and that seems super strange to me.
Had to do this on a neck-through Rickie style bass. Pulling it out was a nightmare. But when the new one slid in easy, it was so pleasing. Quite an emotional rollecoaster the whole thing lol
I bought a Sigma guitar 40 years ago. Then in the late 90s my son was horsing around and sat on it and broke the neck off it. I took it to a repair shop and when I got it back the action and the sound was better than I had ever experienced, even when it was brand new. I suspect the repairman adjusted the truss rod as it should have been from the start.
What a beautiful guitar! How common are "bolt on" acoustic necks these days? I have a Taylor T5 (more like an electric) and was stunned to find out that Taylor necks are "bolt on" for all(?) their guitars, but it works just fine.
Of the biggest 3, Taylor is the only one. But among luthier/smaller/high end builders, it’s very very common- Driftwood, Collings, McPherson, Huss & Dalton and a lot of others.
Chris you are really blessed things went smoothly which usually not the case most of the time. Well done and SOAP worked for you ( Subjective, Objective, Assessment and Plan ) best and kind regards from ENGLAND UK 🇬🇧👍👏
Next time heat the end of the pocket / fretboard so you don't lose a big chunk of valuable wood! I'd be nervous if this was my guitar, Pulling a twisted up truss rod through the channel wasn't a good either either.
Wow, excellent video, just another example of why you should understand how to adjust your truss rod. ALSO, you are very lucky you did NOT use any adhesive when installing your truss rods...if you did, this would have been a totally different story. 😉 I loved your method of removing it and also to see your absolute surprise when it went back in so easily. Good job!
My head started involuntarily shaking "no" at 1:50 and didn't stop until well past 15 minutes when I grabbed it with both hands as you started banging that over torqued rod out. Someone really needs to call GPS (Guitar Protective Services) on this one. I was horrified.
I don't even have to watch 1 second of this video to say with confidence the answer is probably not. I've seen Ted Woodford reattach a completely severed gibson les paul headstock. Where the wood doesn't even come close to fitting back together. It really is incredible what luthiers and woodworkers can do. I look forward to this video!
@@DriftwoodGuitars I meant probably not, as in its probably not ruined. Took me a while to come back to this and finish it up, but great repair and amazing inlays. I bet you were stoked you didn't have to remove the fretboard.
Cool video! I'm a novice (amateur) tech... We don't have a professional in the area that I trust, I'd rather wreck my own guitar than pay someone else to do it. But my friend has some cracks on the top of his breedlove, near the waist left of the sound hole. I haven't stuck a mirror in there yet but there's enough give that I suspect brace problems along with... He'll let me take a crack at fixing it but I don't want to fix it wrong and make it hard for someone behind me to fix it right... I also have no one I can recommend to him to fix it right, and I think if it keeps playing it as it is it's going to get worse. ... Assuming there are include brace(s), should I fix the cracks first and then reglue the braces or the other way around?
Probably silly comment but could strong dental floss/tape be useful in this scenario to work under the fretboard? i.e. pull it side to side as you free up the adhesive?
So Chris…… is this video also another plug for LMI instrument glue? How would you guess the disassembly could have been different, potentially, if the guitar would have been assembled with Titebond; or your obvious favorite, hide glue?
I don’t think it’d be any different for the disassembly process. The reason I use LMI glue over Titebond is because of how the glue acts when it’s dry. The LMI glue is much more “crystal” like when it’s dry and the titebond can sometimes stay a little gummy. This obviously wouldn’t be good for sound production, so I stay with the LMI stuff. Plus the LMI glue has an additive in it so you can see it under a black light. I use this in the end to find any glue squeeze out I missed prior to the finish process, and it can be useful for finding a center seam on a jointed top or back.
This kind of truss rod has four threads. When adjusting, all four thread are working at the same time. The rotating torque can't be offset inside the truss rod, and all transferred to the neck. At the same time, the two brass connectors are also moves back and forth, it's horrible, I'm thankful that the first time I used this truss rod on my guitar it cracked my neck, so I retested what I could get 6, 7 types truss rod, decide to ditch the four-thread model forever, only use two-thread or one-thread truss rod.
I’m not sure I can picture what you’re trying to explain, but I’d sure like to understand more. These are all I use in my guitars, and don’t want to risk problems if there’s a better rod out there.
Very enjoyable to watch, gorgeous guitar and a salient lesson on the risks of farting about with the truss rod on one’s beautiful, expensive, handcrafted guitar.
Dude. If I bought a $25,000 custom built guitar I would send it back to the builder for any adjustments for this reason. I have a $2300 Taylor 324ce and if I run into neck issues back to a certified Taylor tech it will go. I can work on my electric guitars but I don't touch my acoustics unless it's playing them, cleaning them or restrings
I like the thinking out of the box... and adjust the direction of your actions according what every prio step give you in terms of information. Briliant job... yes you have the advantage you perfectly know how the guitar was build. But it takes allot of "balls" to start hammering that out, have to ge honest I was cringing little bit on the firsts few hammer blows. Well done... well done!!!
Was there a reason not to straighten out the trussrod before hammering it out? I'd "stain" my pants trying to hammer out a convex shape out of a CNC precision rectangular opening Edit: like by drilling a hole perpendicular to the rod and inserting a smaller rod to apply/release tension
Great video Chris. I really didn't see a path to making this repair without major surgery, but I didn't understand exactly how the truss rod fit in. So relieved to be getting it back next week! I'll never wet those hydrator pucks again!!! What a problem that caused...
This is the guitar owner for anyone that’s interested!
Nice guitar :)
Do you feel like the sound of the guitar has changed at all? Full disclaimer I know NOTHING about making or repairing guitars, but I wonder if the cracks below the neck joint changed the quality of the sound of the top of the body.
...what your watch of choice diving?
@@alessandropintus I wouldn't expect any change in sound, outside of the fact that the strings are now lower because it has had a proper setup. As the builder noted, the wood that was removed during the fretboard extension removal was just above the truss rod channel. It doesn't vibrate and produce sound like the main top.
Whenever I build a custom guitar I usually add a sacrificial veneer under the fingerboard just in case the fingerboard ever needs to be removed. I usually use a colored veneer to add a nice contrasting pinstripe down the neck, which looks great as well.
Great idea!!
That is really good, I'm going to use that. Thanks Mr Howell, from Vancouver BC I'm going to try to add you on FB
Do you charge $25,000 for your guitars as well because this guitar does not look worth it
A while back Stewmac had a problem with some of their truss rods, I had purchased some and they contacted me and shipped out replacements. I had only used one in a customer guitar, and that hasn't broken. You may check with them and see if your client's rod was from the batch with which they had problems.
Definitely do a video on shop humidification. I'm constamtly battling that with the guitars I have hanging in my music room.
And "dehumidification" for those who live in humid climates. 😉
Michigan we have dry winters, and fairly humid summers. Get yourself a "whole house humidifier", we have an Aprilaire unit. And, get yourself a dehumidifier. We have a semi-portable stand-a lone GE unit that has a long tube we drain into the sink. Finally, get yourself a good hygrometer. (AcuRite off Amazon has been working good)
The whole house humidifier will only get the house up to around 35 to 38% in the winter, so we supplement it with a portable humidifier. Set on low, the tank of water lasts about 24hrs. The end goal is to keep our Yamaha Grand piano where the hygrometer sits, at around 45%.
In the summer, the goal is the same. The house air conditioning system does a pretty good job, but the music room can get up to 60%, so we use the dehumidifier to keep it down to around 45%.
It sounds like a hassle, but once you're into a routine, it's easy.
@@CaptainRon1913 Thanks, I appreciate the real world advice. Where I currently live, it's not unusual for the humidity to be above 80%.
Agree in colorado we dont have moisture. I would like to know what you do when you ship from dry to humid time zones. Also on a new guitar what do you tell the client about storing a new guitar 😎👍
Taylor guitars youtube page has a whole podcast dedicated to humidity and guitars
I don't see the harm in a shop humidification video. I've always been curious on how bigger rooms and warehouses keep their humidity in check.
Count me in!
Me too. Major concern - especially for prized Acoustics.
This really reinforces why a bolt on neck with a removable truss rod makes sense.
What guitars have removable truss rods? I’ve never heard of that before
To me it reinforces the idea that one shouldn’t monkey with the truss rod on your $25k guitar.
@@lifeofalex9199 I think he means guitars with similar setups to this guitar. Maybe the truss rod isn't easily "removeable", but the genius of this builder's design shows how installing truss rods in a bolt-on design, facing the soundhole, may make for easier repairs. If other builders install their truss rods and necks this way, it should technically work on those models as well.
If this was a Fender, you'd have to drill out the wooden collars and cut into the first fret on in order to even see what was wrong. This guy just pulled off the neck and inserted a new rod. It's brilliant!
@@salnichols94805 To me it reinforces the idea that one shouldn't spend 25K on a guitar.
@@lifeofalex9199 Fodera bass and guitars, you can even remove the truss rod with full string tension.
Wow, I was equally surprised when you so effortlessly slid that new rod back in. Crazy. Nice job!
Things you can say during sex and when you repair a guitar neck. 😅
That's what she said
What a nerve wracking job to have to do!!! Great seeing this type of video. Thanks guys
What I don't see mentioned is part of the easy removal and replacement is because with a the StewMac dual action truss rod, the cavity where the truss rod sits is flat unlike a traditional truss rod where the cavity is curved. Still the same procedure, but flat and straight makes the job more "straight" forward...
idk much about glidecote, if it dries or anything, but a tip ive learned for stuff like this that you want to slide in but dont want to remain lubricated, even the opposite, is to use hairspray. Soak the thing in hairspray, its super slick while wet but dries tacky and helps hold the item in place afterward.
Great tip
Might as well use lacquer.
The bow after you inserted the truss rod had me! Well done! That was an incredibly clean repair!
It's just so nice to see something like this go so smoothly. So many channels I follow show repairs of this nature, and they end up requiring a ridiculous amount of time and effort. Your work is clearly very precise. That was awesome to see!
This happened to me with another brand of truss rod- the weld failed. I got it re welded with the truss rod in place without damaging the finish!!!
It’s a Heart stopper
By 4:12 i see a nightmare coming. marquetry so close to the end of the fretboard is not going to help anything. I havn't got past the 4:12 mark but my approach might be to laminate the fretboard in multi layers of veneer tape or a removeable light canvas like I do when a marquetry inlayed top on a desk is in need of repair it stablizes all the peices and temperary fuses them together while work is done. now back to the show. Oh I was the coming home band that commented on the BZ Rosewood. interesting but the frets may work like clamps to help hold the marquetry inplace. I am watch every second spray KY jelly LOL. Very nice job you should be proud.
That was absolutely incredible. I'm an amateur guitar builder. I've built - and later repaired -about a dozen guitars and ukes for myself and my family, but my work is far from professional or artistic. I am amazed how calm and good humored you remained through out this repair. I would have been freaking out trying to separate the fretboard and pulling out the truss rod. I'm sure I would have also destroyed the finish. Thankyou for show us how a real pro can repair what appears to be a train wreck, and not throw a tantrum in the process.
I once read a suggestion to only apply glue in a narrow bead around the outside edge of the fingerboard. With a bolt on neck, this would be sufficient to hold the fingerboard to the soundboard and make removal at a later date easier. Thoughts?
Solid idea!
Over the course of building 147 custom guitars, I've had two clients who thought they knew how to set up their guitars, but succeeded only in stripping out the truss rod nut, or breaking the truss rod entirely, both of which required a full-on neck deconstruction, truss rod transplant, rebuild, and refinish job. I've had many other customers who likewise had no idea what they were doing, and got their guitars so far out of whack that a professional had to be conscripted to haul them back from the edge of disaster. That's why I always make a very emphatic point of educating the new owners of my guitars on the purpose and function of the truss rod. I have a three page long treatise on the issue that I include with the other "Care and Feeding" info I provide with each new guitar. In bold type, I wrote, "I cannot warrant repair or set-up work done by anyone other than myself. If you are not 100% sure you know exactly what you're doing, please take your guitar to a qualified guitar repair tech for any adjustments..."
Taking apart a neck to remove and replace a damaged truss rod is a giant pain in the ass, and it's EXPENSIVE. So my advice to all luthiers is, gently teach the people who buy your guitars how to NOT screw them up royally. An awful lot of people consider themselves to be experts at things they have no reality-based concept of. If a guy says, "Oh yeah, the truss rod is for adjusting the action of the guitar..." that should send up a red flag right away.
One trick I use with my spatulas is to turn them bottom side up and run them on a buffing wheel. It gives the edge a slight radius and tends to hold the blade tight to the bottom of the fretboard.
Phenomenal approach to repairing the guitar. My 1st thought was to tack weld the nut back on to the truss rod, but I didn't realize the truss rod could be removed in this way. Game changer!
I'll never be able to afford one of those guitars, but they're so beautiful. Shoot I'd settle for just playing one.
I would love a humidification video! I am just starting my first ever guitar build thanks in huge part to your videos, and I am always interested in learning more. Thank you for anyways being so clear and all encompassing with your instructional videos.
Have you considered heating up the blade you use to remove the end of the fret board rather than heating up the fret board? It may save the inlays on the fret board.
But then it’d want to melt the lacquer. Good thought, but I don’t think it’d work unfortunately.
Glad to see it's OK to use a carpenter's claw hammer for repairs on even high-end guitars. Now I don't have to feel guilty when I do guitar repairs with a framing hammer and a chain saw. Thanks!
You use what you have I ha seen amazing repairs with tools and by people that your heart is beating out of your chest and boy oh boy oh boy they are masters when you gong the right luthier you find a master
I've just had exact same problem with that Stewmac double action truss rod. It felt stiff but literally just sheered off. Luckily the guitar isn't finished so I can get the fingerboard off and replace the truss rod. Annoying though.
Here's why I so appreciate this: 1) I bought my first guitar decades ago. I knew about the truss rod adjustment. But I never actually understood how it works until you showed me. 2) Gorgeous inlay work. 3) You're a real craftsman- and you explained your tools and techniques. Thank you!
Nice repair, made easier by using a bolt/screw on neck. Smart planning, and proof that you don't need to have a glued neck joint. I'm sure you're feeling pretty good about how things went. It would have been tempting to just weld back the end of the truss rod, but by removing it, you made the right decision and were able to see just how overtightened the rod was. Good lessons for everyone.
Broken truss rods are usually over tightened
Maybe *you* don’t have to have sex with people to be happy!
Really helpful again guys. Love the enthusiasm and fun. Well done on the perfect repair Chris 👌🏼
I replaced a truss rod that's anchored at both ends from a Gibson Earl Scruggs Standard banjo neck, without removing the fretboard, by drilling just enough wood out at each end to get it to move out the heel end. When I put the new single action rod in I glued blocks into the neck to secure the rod at the ends. No finish repairs or board removal!
Chris there are places that offer Micro Welding of several types such as arch and laser. It is an opposition you can consider now. I hope this helps. BTW I am going down the sound hole. Just got these a few days ago. The Guitar Player Repair Guide Paperback - December 15, 2007; by Dan Erlewine and TUOREN 61Pieces Complete Guitar Repairing Tool Kit with Ruler Gauge Measuring Tool Hex Wrench Files Fingerboard Guard Grinding Stone Guitar Gift for Acoustic Electric Guitar & Bass Banjo.
About a year ago, I saw several guys all have this issue with Stewmac Hot Rod truss rods. Even had a couple in my guitars snap. I've since switched to LMI's truss rods.
Hi Chris & Matt! I've been fixing guitars for 20 years or so and Ive built several. Mostly electrics with only 6 acoustics under my belt...4 1/2 that I'm really proud of. I have watched countless videos on guitar this and that but you guys get nearly all of my attention for the past couple of years because of the knowledge you have and share freely and I'll bet nearly everyone watching ya'll really, really appreciate that! I searched your channel for engraving/inlays but didn't see it so I'm just gonna ask if you could link me up somehow..IF you have in depth videos of that. If not would you consider making some. In one of your videos you said you didn't use cnc but rather did them by hand since "it was easy" or something like that. However you do it they are simply awesome! thanks
';
There are some people who don't understand the mechanics of a double action truss rod. Maybe you could explain how it functions to your client and how it differs from the original truss rod.( assuming that the problem was not a badly made truss rod) 👍Nice Guitar. 👍
Probably wouldn't hurt to warm up the tool also if you're worried about the glue cooling. Seems like it would help warm up areas that are resistant to heating evenly.
That was a 7.9 on the "pucker meter" :-0
At least! I would have been clenching so hard, fearfully anticipating the sound of the fretboard or top cracking that I would have ruptured or herniated something, for sure.
No lie! I was going to ask for a humidification/ dehumidification video on guitars not just for a shop but for the ones we store at home/ studios would love that
It would be nice to explain what the truss rod is for and what it does to the neck when you tighten or loosen it. I've always been afraid to touch it.
Fabulous job!! It's great when luck is on your side and you didn't get any splitting and the new truss rod went in nicely!
Loved the vid, Thanks 👍😎😎
I am just a home DYIer that loves guitars. I was wondering, if you were to put RED locktite and thread the nut back on could you have reduced the tension on the truss rod back to normal? Or even coated the threads with JB Weld and rethreaded the rod. Would that have done the same thing as tack welding the nut on?
A few years back Stewmac did a recall on some of their truss rods for the same issue. Good recovery.
Nice work man. I would have the whole instrument broken apart and after a week of work I would be crying in the corner of the room 😂😂😂... Very clean and elegant solution for a complex problem!
So question about humidification: Would having a whole house humidifyer on your HVAC be good enough for guitars or do you need something specifically in your guitar room or individual cases etc?
The little bubble effect was surprisingly awesome 😂
I never anchor a truss rod with glue just for this reason, although I've never had one break. I also don't glue the fingerboard to the top.
I use a Boneco humidifier in my music room to keep RH at 50% year round. (We live in a dry area and use wood and electric furnaces over the winter. Really sucks the moisture out of the air.) Sure makes a difference when it comes to tone and action. Guitars stay in tune. Good thing about the Boneco is that it has a heat plate that boils the water so you get steam not ultrasonic mist. And it kills bacteria. Had a mister type before that and despite cleaning it on a regular basis with hot soapy water and a bit of bleach, a pinkish biofilm had developed. As in pneumococcus. Discovered that after a whole winter of getting sick with one 'cold' after another. Junked that unit. With the Boneco, I use pure white vinegar every couple of weeks to remove any calcification on the heat plate. And sterilize the whole unit. Yup, I've got my two pneumonia shots but why go through that?
Learned about humidification the hard way with a '74 or so herringbone D-28. Flew from Vancouver to northern BC in winter which meant a humidity drop from coastal to bone dry. And from 0 C down to -20. Left the guitar in the case for a whole day and then just unsnapped the case and let the guitar sit for another half day, as advised by the Victoria shop where I bought it. Then took it out to play. When I rested my elbow on the side of the guitar thinking what to play, there was an awful POP. A 12 inch crack in the side running from bout to bout. I've got a small fortune in guitars and other instruments in as new condition. Couple of hundred bucks for a good humidifier is a small price to pay. Especially when the alternative is cracks and repairs.
Man you really do make pieces of art to the eye and ear, had my doubts how a guitar could be worth 25k but one look and your website and saw that Johnny Cash inlay ( I love the man in Black) worth every cent. Love ya work watched few of your videos always well produced, honest and charismatic, love from Australia, subscribed 👍🏆
Happy day! What do you think about recessing the fingerboard into the top so you don't need to glue it? Kind of like Taylor.
or mounting the fingerboard extension as a separate component, so it dosen't need to be unglued?
Well... That went just as planned! I was thinking silver solder when I saw it, although I generally weld all my own truss rods. I was right there with you when you wanted to fire up the welder.
The beauty of going in and fixing a guitar you made yourself, is that chances are subconsciously you made it with repairs in mind. Many Luthier's do that without realizing it. This makes reparing them much easier. Excellent work Chris! The ease of this repair is definitely due to your expertise in building it to begin with. Don't sell yourself short. This was all due to your excellent workmanship to start with.
Sex based luthiers are a thing btw
What are your thoughts about applying the heat from inside the sound hole on the under side of the fret board. Is there too much bracing material for the heat to adequately penetrate into the glue joint. Thoughts or opinions? DEFCON Pucker Factor 1
I love that "house roof" neck joint. Great video too.
The two way truss rod can add relief or add back bow (I can’t think of another way to say that)
I use them.
That was a great example of how, like you said, thinking outside the box and luck play such an important role in this type of trade. Also, I was pleased to see someone as experienced as yourself still have doubt and surprise about the outcome. One thing I’ve always said to my colleagues is to never be afraid of trying unconventional solutions to unique problems.
A honest take into the life of a tech, great video!
I know this is all done, but if there is inlay on the neck where you need to heat it, maybe put the heat on the underside through the sound hole?
You know, think inside the box. 🙂
I'd like to see an episode about humidification. I recently watched a repair guy go off about how you SHOULDN'T humidify instruments and that seems super strange to me.
Yeah... don't listen to that guy. He probably lives in the Everglades.
You described a dent puller type slide device. Great work.
Had to do this on a neck-through Rickie style bass. Pulling it out was a nightmare. But when the new one slid in easy, it was so pleasing. Quite an emotional rollecoaster the whole thing lol
The uncertainty of the outcome, followed by the obvious shock that it happened so easy made this a great video. I’ve hidden my Allen key set.
Nice inlay work and great design for the position and future workability of the truss rod.
I bought a Sigma guitar 40 years ago. Then in the late 90s my son was horsing around and sat on it and broke the neck off it. I took it to a repair shop and when I got it back the action and the sound was better than I had ever experienced, even when it was brand new. I suspect the repairman adjusted the truss rod as it should have been from the start.
Impressively creative solution. Saved everyone time and the customer money, too.
Why not heat from inside the guitar? Seems like since the guitar top is thinner it might heat up faster and not heat up all of your inlay?
You say he had too much forward bow / relief. I need to use a little forward bow setting on my 12 string Gretsch.
What a beautiful guitar! How common are "bolt on" acoustic necks these days? I have a Taylor T5 (more like an electric) and was stunned to find out that Taylor necks are "bolt on" for all(?) their guitars, but it works just fine.
I’d say most are bolt on these days. I don’t think the neck joint makes any difference in the final tone of a guitar as long as it’s done properly.
Of the biggest 3, Taylor is the only one. But among luthier/smaller/high end builders, it’s very very common- Driftwood, Collings, McPherson, Huss & Dalton and a lot of others.
And to add to that, I think Martin will never go that direction. It took them until 1985 to even start using truss rods!
I think humidity is a key. I build at home and the first time i used CA glue, it flashed.
Chris you are really blessed things went smoothly which usually not the case most of the time. Well done and SOAP worked for you ( Subjective, Objective, Assessment and Plan ) best and kind regards from ENGLAND UK 🇬🇧👍👏
You just totally nailed it
I always wonder, can't seem to find any info - is there any advantage of this hot rod style double-rod truss rod vs the classic rod with flatbar?
if you had heated the glue, would you have as much tear out? i try to warm up all glue when i unstick things
I did heat it up. I maybe should have waited a little longer though.
@@DriftwoodGuitars yes, most probably. i try not to force it, when the knife fits through freely, you know its ok to remove
Killer free content, you guys are the best
Next time heat the end of the pocket / fretboard so you don't lose a big chunk of valuable wood! I'd be nervous if this was my guitar, Pulling a twisted up truss rod through the channel wasn't a good either either.
Exactly, I dont understand how people think that was a proper technique.
Yes sir, slide hammer is the correct name for the vise grip thingy
Wow! By far one of your best videos!!!!
Shouldn't the end of the 2-way truss rod be epoxied into the heel to keep it from sliding into the inside of the hollow body?
Not with my design.
@@DriftwoodGuitars If you were able to pull it out, and then you lubed it up, what keeps it from falling into the body?
The transverse brace and the way my end block is designed keeps it all locked in place while the neck is attached to the body.
Wow, excellent video, just another example of why you should understand how to adjust your truss rod. ALSO, you are very lucky you did NOT use any adhesive when installing your truss rods...if you did, this would have been a totally different story. 😉 I loved your method of removing it and also to see your absolute surprise when it went back in so easily. Good job!
Really enjoying watching your work!
Maybe hot hide glue for finger board extensions might make it easier? Just a thought.
My head started involuntarily shaking "no" at 1:50 and didn't stop until well past 15 minutes when I grabbed it with both hands as you started banging that over torqued rod out. Someone really needs to call GPS (Guitar Protective Services) on this one. I was horrified.
What's the music in the beginning of the video?
I'm not seeing $25K worth of Guitar here👍🏾😁🤳but Nice Inlay work & Nice Fix✌😎☯️
I don't even have to watch 1 second of this video to say with confidence the answer is probably not. I've seen Ted Woodford reattach a completely severed gibson les paul headstock. Where the wood doesn't even come close to fitting back together. It really is incredible what luthiers and woodworkers can do. I look forward to this video!
You’re in for a surprise then!
@@DriftwoodGuitars I meant probably not, as in its probably not ruined.
Took me a while to come back to this and finish it up, but great repair and amazing inlays.
I bet you were stoked you didn't have to remove the fretboard.
Cool video! I'm a novice (amateur) tech... We don't have a professional in the area that I trust, I'd rather wreck my own guitar than pay someone else to do it. But my friend has some cracks on the top of his breedlove, near the waist left of the sound hole. I haven't stuck a mirror in there yet but there's enough give that I suspect brace problems along with... He'll let me take a crack at fixing it but I don't want to fix it wrong and make it hard for someone behind me to fix it right... I also have no one I can recommend to him to fix it right, and I think if it keeps playing it as it is it's going to get worse.
... Assuming there are include brace(s), should I fix the cracks first and then reglue the braces or the other way around?
*unglued brace(s)
Fix the crack first, then the brace.
@@DriftwoodGuitars Thanks!!
Putting the bolt head back on using LocTite probably would have worked withput having to remove the neck ?
Probably silly comment but could strong dental floss/tape be useful in this scenario to work under the fretboard? i.e. pull it side to side as you free up the adhesive?
in thinking about this, it was honestly lucky that it broke because if he kept turning it mightve caused damage and failure elsewhere
So Chris…… is this video also another plug for LMI instrument glue? How would you guess the disassembly could have been different, potentially, if the guitar would have been assembled with Titebond; or your obvious favorite, hide glue?
I don’t think it’d be any different for the disassembly process. The reason I use LMI glue over Titebond is because of how the glue acts when it’s dry. The LMI glue is much more “crystal” like when it’s dry and the titebond can sometimes stay a little gummy. This obviously wouldn’t be good for sound production, so I stay with the LMI stuff. Plus the LMI glue has an additive in it so you can see it under a black light. I use this in the end to find any glue squeeze out I missed prior to the finish process, and it can be useful for finding a center seam on a jointed top or back.
@@DriftwoodGuitars
UV glow glue? How cool is that people!!!!!
This kind of truss rod has four threads. When adjusting, all four thread are working at the same time. The rotating torque can't be offset inside the truss rod, and all transferred to the neck. At the same time, the two brass connectors are also moves back and forth, it's horrible, I'm thankful that the first time I used this truss rod on my guitar it cracked my neck, so I retested what I could get 6, 7 types truss rod, decide to ditch the four-thread model forever, only use two-thread or one-thread truss rod.
I’m not sure I can picture what you’re trying to explain, but I’d sure like to understand more. These are all I use in my guitars, and don’t want to risk problems if there’s a better rod out there.
@@DriftwoodGuitars th-cam.com/video/5XNHMdp8KT0/w-d-xo.html I made this video to explain that.
Very enjoyable to watch, gorgeous guitar and a salient lesson on the risks of farting about with the truss rod on one’s beautiful, expensive, handcrafted guitar.
Great Job Chris
Dude. If I bought a $25,000 custom built guitar I would send it back to the builder for any adjustments for this reason. I have a $2300 Taylor 324ce and if I run into neck issues back to a certified Taylor tech it will go. I can work on my electric guitars but I don't touch my acoustics unless it's playing them, cleaning them or restrings
I like the thinking out of the box... and adjust the direction of your actions according what every prio step give you in terms of information. Briliant job... yes you have the advantage you perfectly know how the guitar was build. But it takes allot of "balls" to start hammering that out, have to ge honest I was cringing little bit on the firsts few hammer blows. Well done... well done!!!
45% humidity is the 'magic number' across the board. Guitars, pianos, books, electronics, furniture, etc. There's the video in advance. LOL!
I'd be interested to know about shop humidification.
Wow, what a great job!!! well done.
You have some mad skills.
OH MAN, I really wanted to hear that beauty ring out
Its an amazing instrument, and I gig with it 2-4 times / week.
Was there a reason not to straighten out the trussrod before hammering it out? I'd "stain" my pants trying to hammer out a convex shape out of a CNC precision rectangular opening
Edit: like by drilling a hole perpendicular to the rod and inserting a smaller rod to apply/release tension
I should have haha. Didn’t realize how wrenched down it was.
I thought you did a great job making this video! Thanks!
Using Bolts is a good idea!!! Next time use them to connect fret board to body instead of glue.
I appreciate that suspense in the biggining =))
You're in Florida, I figured you would need a dehumidifier, not a humidifer.
I was stationed at Eglin AFB so know what the climate is like.
I bet you are glad that you build with the bolt on neck system.
what keeps the truss rod from spinning in the channel?
the rectangular shape of the channel..