Thanks for this post! I just successfully replaced the motors on both front doors of my daughter's 2012 Corolla. $13 total. The housing on this Corolla are MUCH more difficult to get into than your Highlander, but I was able to do it. The driver side one was a real pain to get back in the door because that door has a lock cylinder that has to be inserted back into the actuator. I saved about $70 thanks to you.
Thank you for your reply. I actually went ahead and purchased the motor. The one I had the pin was circular and the 4Runner had a half circle. My buddy had a grinder so we achieved the appropriate shape and the door is working excellent. This video saved me well over $300 at the dealership. I did however make a mess of all the clips trying to open it up
Jose, thank you for the video, it was a great help! I replaced it on our 2006 Highlander. I noticed that the metal electrical contacts were dirty, so I cleaned those a little with a Q-tip while in there. Interesting that the motor I got makes a louder noise than the old one, but I kind of don't care too much, since it works. Thank you!
My experience: Once you open the piece, clean the contacts with alcohol/sandpaper then after snapping it back together I found that it just pops back open. I used 2 of the holes in the piece that were drilled half way through and drilled them all the way through and then ran a screw through it. No glue or tie wraps, Like new. This was great video and saved me$$$
Thanks for the video! It saved me tons of money $$$$ I own a 2000 Tundra Limited Edition and followed along as much as it applied to what I was doing and improvised what I found that was not the same as your video. One thing I found that I did not see in any video was the removal of the metal guide for the rubber window seal (one nut on the face of the door and a bolt on the bottom side of the door) really opened up the space needed to get the locking mechanism out. I did not get all the way to the electric motor, (I bought a relacement door lock actuator (from Amazon)) and replaced the whole thing start to finish in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. a mechanic told me that my passenger side will probably break down soon, but I will have figured out (using the actuator that I just removed) how to it take apart and hopefully buy the $6 dollar motor. I really appreciate the time that you (and other) videographers took to help us Again, Much Mahalo (Thanks) for the help Aloha from Hawaii Roy Roo27
Roy Rodrigues aloha Roy,,,,,I'm glad it helped you in any way possible. Since I did the video, I've had 3 of my 4 doors locking mechanism / actuators fail....I've done this job over and over again, saved money like so many others. buying the motor is cheaper, at the same time, buying the actuator buys you less work. Great job my friend.
Thanks for the video!! For those who are attempting the front door mechanisms you will need to release the locking rods from the clips. The easiest way to do this is to remove the plastic plug on the door just above the door latch mechanism(will reveal red clipped rod) and use the torx driver to punch the yellow clipped rod out from this direction. Make sure to unlock the clip before you punch. Also you may need an adhesive to make the cover stay closed after repair. I used superglue after the motor opened the cover after three or four actuations. The part number used was the one in the description. I ordered straight from ebay. If you type in the part number he's listed choose the flat shaft, standard length one. ($10.50 as of 02/27/2014)
Thanks, just saved $180 it works perfectly and interesting thing is that i was looking for motor in search on ebay and it cost $20 but your model in description cost really $6. Just needed to stop more detaily on removing yellow clip- the most difficult part
Thanks for making this video, it helped me make a similar repair on my own Toyota Camry (after some additional research). You deserve that money I would have paid Toyota to do this for me!
Great video. Just replaced the power door lock actuator motor ($6.50 on eBay.com) on the front right on my 2006 Highlander. Now works fine. I should have taken some pics before I took the actuator apart. Had to re-install several times. Took your advise and zip tied the actuator cover together. Hope this keeps working. Great job. Thanks.
Great video.....only one problem. Customers see this and think ALL years of Toyota Highlanders are this way. Try this, tell them that labor for this repair is WAY more and in the end the total cost to them is the same....
Had 2 doors on an 2012 Highlander doing the same thing. Didn't even need to buy new motors. I cleaned all the contacts, used dielectric grease and put foam on the top of the motor to help stop movement due to vibrations. Oxidation and vibration don't play well with electric circuits. Took under two hours to do both doors.
Great video. I have the same problem as other commenters. It worked great for a second, grinding noises, and then burned out the replacement motor. Actually the original motor was working fine before the replacement. I had planned to do all 4 doors and started with the rear left, even though it was working fine, so that I could follow your exact procedure before attempting the driver's door which is actually burned out. Now I have two burned out doors.
OK, I figured it out. It turned out that the motor worked the two halves of the clamshell apart just like Mikael Phigaro warned in his comment. I glued the clamshell and it seems to work fine now. I then did the driver door and had the hardest time getting the lock rod with the yellow clip free. Even with the clip unlocked I had to use enough force to bend the rod and break the clip before it came free of the door handle. From other reading online I've seen this is a common problem. Nissan service centers evidently consider replacing this clip a common part of any door/lock work. I jimmy rigged something for now, but will need to order another yellow clip. For anyone contemplating this repair for a front door, I'd order both the actuator motors and the yellow clips before starting. Otherwise you may wind up like me needing to open up the door multiple times. One to fix the motor and then again later to replace the yellow clip.
Johan Von Muskeln thank you Johan for pointing this out, I have updated the description so others will know to glue the clamshell back together after replacing the motor
I have a 2000 toyota corolla and have been looking for a repair video like this. Thank you very much and I will be looking on ebay for the part and will get started immediately. My Toyota dealer in Bakersfield tried to sell me the part and labor for around $1000...not going to happen...thanks again.
I'm glad you found it helpful.....It's easy to do once you take apart the actuator... buy the motor and simply replace it.... if you have question, please let me know
jruiz0305 Replacing this motor will allow my door lock to open and should be able to allow me to open the door from the inside right? Currently we have to roll down the window and open the door from the outside handle. The handle inside works but will not open the door. The Toyota dealer in Bakersfield Ca (Bill Wright) said we needed a new actuator.....for $1000....crazy
azrael758 yes, however, another possibility could be that the wire attached from the inside door handle to the actuator came off loose, but the only way to know is to look. If I was you, I would buy the motor, get to the actuator. If there is cable loose, then reattach it. I doubt it will simply be the cable though. Betting it's the actuator, I would replace the motor. You kills two birds with one stone, i.e. reattaching the cable and placing a new motor. Consider it a small maintenance gesture, saving yourself from doing this job twice in the future and having $1000 more in your pocket.
Thanks for the video. I have a 92 Previa with a similar problem. I have different vehicle, but this video gives me an idea of where to start. Great video!
This was a huge help! Thank you for posting this. I used the same process on my 2006 Toyota Sienna. If you do this, make sure you re-set the door handle mechanism when installing the part with the new motor.
myheartisinob I used: Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Repair Motors Flat Shaft - Brass Collar FC-280PC-22125. I did this back in 2014 and it still works great today! You have to absolutely make sure you have the right part. I think you have to get the flat shaft, but I can't fully remember. Good luck!
Tried it. Worked for a second, then it started grinding gears and burnt out the second one. Great video, I'm sure I just messed it up somewhere along the way.
I'm not sure what might be going on with your installation, but mine is still working fine. Make sure to lube the gears with some grease that can be found around the immediate area of the gears.
Wish you'ld've finished that vid. I'm right at that spot right now. One of the copper contacts is broken away from the shaft of the little rc motor. it works but only in the push out (unlock) direction. I did give a real nice sweat equity try but an air compressor and a rag can't make a little bitty copper contact just reappear. I did a great job of cleaning and replacing my original door lock actuator but once i looked REAL close i finally gave in to an online order of the actuator. ALMOST had it, I already know that any little bits of dirt can make any electronic equipment act out ghostly. My actuator is missing an itty bitty, super easy to break on its own over time, copper contact arm that holds around part of the shaft of the brushless motor.
great video showing how to remove parts. the actuator can be repaired by cleaning the motor rather than replacing it. clean the inside of the motor with a wire brush and WD40. Then reassemble.
jruiz0305, thanks for the DIY video! I have a 97 Camry LE. Is there a list or table somewhere that gives us the specific motor that is compatible with our vehicle? I'm trying to order the part before I disassemble everything.
Thanks man for the video but I'm having problem taking out the rod by knocking it out of the plastic fixture. I'm scared of breaking the whole thing and it's gonna cost me more. I have a 2004 Rav4, and your video is right on the money except taking out the metal rod. Can u help me some more? Thanks.
Jose so my symptom is that only my passenger side door will not remotely lock. All others lock with the remote but not passenger. Will this fix that problem?
Bro, yours is easy to open. Im trying the same with a used unit for a 2009 W204 Mercedes C class rear door actuator that got stuck on lock mode. Cannot open the door from inside or outside. Ive managed to remove the inner lining and then thr door card, now theres an aluminium panel that holds some components. All I eant is the door opened first in order to carry on with replacing. They made this so difficult so it looks like one piece actuator that seems to be held from one side to another with some pins and probably I have to drill them in order to have access to the motor.
I have 96 camry ...the problem is just like that. the look does not work. I need to replace the actuator. I saw you just replaced the electric part....where you get that part. please help. Thanks.
Great video, i wished i have seen it before i began disassembling the acuator. I have have the same problem on my Toyota corolla 2005, i removed everything including the motor and the motor have another model number from the one you used ( specifications in the descreption).. do you thing it will fine or it has to be the same exact model number? Thanks
I actually used a different motor from the one listed, it was a long round sharft, instead of the correct short flat shaft. With the long shaft, i had to cut it to the appropriate length, and then I used a dremmel tool to shape the shaft to a flat piece. So yes you can use a different motor, but if you order the correct motor, it will make things easier
Kurt Baldacchino Hey Kurt, I have an 06 Corolla and need to do the same repair. Was the motor in your car round/flat shaft, long/standard length? Want to have the right motor handy before I start. Thanks.
I need to reconnect the door handle rod to the actuator 93 Toyota corolla . I can't see it and there are no images or TH-cam's on this simple fix. Do I need to take out the whole actuator to do this ? That seems silly . I can feel it, and I could wire it together blind but ,there must be a better way?
I have a 2004 toyota 4runner sr5, I was wondering out of the different motors which one will work on my car. On the forums it is difficult to find the right one. Would you be able to be as specific as possible or even add the link? Thanks for the video..going to save me tons of money
Hi Man, I only know about motors for the Highlander, however, I would assume Toyota uses the same exact motor in all their vehicles, but the actuator housing might be different. What matters is the motor, not the actuator (because you are not changing the door mechanism by changing the motor). If I had a 4runner, I would go ahead and purchase the inexpensive motor(s), take down your door, remove the old motor, and then see if the new motor fits. If it does, you' re done. Another alternative, if you don't want to take the door down twice (double work) is to buy the 2 different motors. If the first motor doesn't fit, most likely the second motor will. That way, once the door is taken down, it's a matter of simply installing the motor that fits and eliminating the one that doesn't. You can save unused motors for a future vehicles or have them handy for friend in need.
All four of my door locks on my Camry stopped working, one at a time until they were all out. The dealership wants $2000 to replace the actuators. I might have to try this instead.
Thank you for the video. I replaced my drivers side actuator motor about 6 months ago per your instructions and it worked perfect. now when I unlock the lock I can hear the motor for about 2-3 seconds unlocking door. Before it just opened like new but now it opens lock but stays on 2-3 seconds making a noise. It locks fine but now have an unlock problems. Any ideas? Thanks.
Try cleaning all the contacts then use dielectric grease on the contacts. I put a small piece of pipe insulation foam on the top of the motor. The plastic housing the motor will keep it in place and will decrease the movement of the contacts moving back and forth.
What is incredible is that I've known a few, ah, people, who have EXTENSIVELY tested, and re-tested, and re-tested again, various cheaply made, small, battery powered , um , motors. And they often ran for many, many, too many, hours, in some unspeakably damp places. Yet here we see these are breaking from 2 or three seconds of daily use. Right.
EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125 Get the "SHORT" length. Do not get the "long" length, otherwise your going to have to cut the length.
So I followed your instructions for a bad power lock on a 2004 toyota rav 4 and now that lock works reverse all the other locks. Do you think its a motor issue or when I put the clamshell back together something wasn't right? Thanks
+jason goldenberg Hi, I am not familiar with the Rav 4 actuator, my best guess is one of two things, 1)either the polarity on the motor is reversed, which means the motor is incorrect for your rav4 2) Did the gears fall out when you opened the clamshell? try reversing the gears? I am not sure why your door would open opposite.I hope you figure it out and post back for other members to know
Just curious if you bothered to test the old motor by applying 12 volts of DC power directly to the motor's electrical contacts to determine if it would still spin.
jeffersonianideal when I took the motor out, one of the contacts had burnt residue, so I knew the motor was toast....I could have tested it with 12V, but it’s a lot of work to get down to the motor, and even if it was fine, I would still replace the motor with a new one since you’re probably going to replace it anyways depending on how old the car is
Thank you for your reply. I connected contacts located on the back of the motor to two wires that led to a 12 volt power source. After giving the motor a couple of turns it began to run without hesitation. I plan to go ahead and replace the entire actuator on the passenger door but may attempt to replace only the motors on the rear doors and possibly the driver's side door. I used contact spray in an attempt to clean out the motor. After doing so, I tested the motor once again and it still ran fine. However, I could not get the old actuator and old motor to work when I reinstalled the device. I will be installing the new actuator later this week.
Thanks again. I may experiment with the old motor once more but the driver's side actuator is also not working and one of the rear door actuators is faulty as well. Considering the exorbitant cost of having a Lexus dealership or even a private mechanic perform the work, paying $45.00 or so for an aftermarket door lock actuator assembly doesn't seem to be too outrageous.
I ended up replacing the actuators in driver's side and passenger side doors but I performed a bit of forensic post-mortem on the motors. For at least one of the rear actuators, I will attempt a motor transplant. I'll do so just for the satisfaction of being able to boast about an $8.00 repair of an item that would have cost hundreds for a dealer to replace.
EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125 Get the "SHORT" length. Do not get the "long" length, otherwise your going to have to cut the length.
The rav and highlander actuators I believe are different in terms of actuator assembly shape, but the motor inside I believe might be the same - but I'm not sure? I actually bought the wrong motor for my highlander, but I was able to cut the length and shave the stem to flat with a dremmel. In other words, I improvised, and made the motor fit the actuator assembly, and I think if I had a rav actuator, I would have been able to do the same. Only way to know is open your rav actuator, look at the motor, and compare to the photo off eBay ?
its better to just replace the motor if thats the only problem.....i decided to buy a $15 actuator unit from ebay....for whatever reason the travel of the manual lock button was lessen....would lock automatically when door is closed. ended up ripping it apart to get the motor and transfer it to the original toyota actuator
EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125 Get the "SHORT" length. Do not get the "long" length, otherwise your going to have to cut the length.
Does anyone know if this works on the 2010 Highlander. 3 doors and the back hatch all out now. Toyota door locks suck. Already spent hundreds on 06 Avalon for lock actuator.
javalos2000 I think it should fit a 2008 Highlander, not sure why Toyota would change the motor from 2005 to 2008, only way to find out is open your actuator, but by then, you have done all disassembly work, and I would have the motor on hand, ready to be installed
jruiz0305 FYI… It does fit. Another FYI for other do it your self-readers. Test the actuator with the door open before you close it. I installed the new motor in the actuator and installed it back into the driver side door then assembled the door ready to go then, I closed the door and tested the actuator and as Murphy's Law would have it; what can happen did happen. The door locked and the actuator gears jammed up (most likely installer error) with the door closed and locked. I had no way of accessing the actuator at that moment. The door handle was not working (both inside and out), the locking lever was stuck, the key lock at the handle would not budge, the power locks worked fine with the other doors except the driver side door. I tried a slim-jim and other improvised devices but that did me no good. I was at wits end and thought I would have to find a way to cut the door off. I stepped away from the situation to do some thinking. I then decided to open the passenger side door to attempt the install of the second motor into the passenger side actuator; this time I tested it before I closed the door and it was perfect. What I did notice while removing the passenger side door panel was the inside window weather strip was not attached to the door panel. (a light turns on in my mind, hmm) I went back to the frustrating driver side door and managed to wedge the door panel partially open from the top; I opened it as much as I could with extremely limited space. I managed to remove the cables from the door latch to include the lock and attempt to pull and push the cables but no luck (you can only imagine all the kind and peaceful words running in my mind and many out loud). The next day, after I returned from work, I decided to give it another shot (in my mind I had decided I was going to have to cut into the door to remove it and buy a new door; I even priced a few). With the panel partially opened I could feel the actuator and the open and locking cables running to it; I could even touch the outside door handle lever that connects to the actuator and tried pushing it down but it was not budging (again more kind words exchanged with the door). Using a small mirror, I could now see the actuator and thought to myself, if I split open the actuator maybe, just maybe, the jam would give (remember the spacing is extremely limited and movement was just as bad). I used a large standard screw driver and managed to wedge it into the cable compartment for the lock. I wedged the actuator partially open and somehow the cable unlatched itself and I removed it (thinking to myself it’s still in good shape, one less thing I have to buy). I kept the screw driver in the locking compartment and continued to push, twist, cuss, etc... The wife came out to see what I was doing and asked “any luck” I said yes with the passenger side door and all other are working fine I used the remote to lock and unlock to show her at that time, the battery became drained ( you can only imagine my thoughts). So, I decided what the heck, let me try the opening the door one last time; I stuck my hand into the door felt the actuator and located the opening lever and pushed it down and the door opened (euphoria). In a nutshell, I believe by accidentally removing the cable from the actuator lock lever and eventually (more luck than anything) I hit the lock lever inside the actuator and eventually manage to unlock the actuator. Either way anyone wants to slice this pie, I saved $$ and gained experience.
how did you look up the motor on ebay? i tried and it comes up as the whole $200-$300 dollar assembly and not just the $6 motor. were there specific key words you used or didn't use?
Will this (and this exact part number) work with a 2001 Toyota Avalon (Passenger Side Front)?? I see many remarks that have used it successfully for other various Toyo models... but none for Toyota Avalon. If it will not, does anyone have a part number I can search for that will work? OR If I take the OEM motor out will I be able to see a part number on the motor itself for the OEM motor (or whoever supplies the motor to Toyo) and simply order that (or at least cross reference to another motor that will work). I agree... having the motor at hand when you take the housing apart is ideal... I just want to make sure I have the CORRECT motor... HELP! :-)
Eric Dombrosky I have a 2006 Highlander. Replaced the right front actuator motor. I used @111593275419 Sold by zink86 on eBay.com. Working great. Good luck!
Tred to change the actuator as per the video.......NO GO!! Video left out One important area. The mechanical rods that connect the actuator to the door handle and key lock. Could not figure out how to disconnect these rods and one CANNOT get the actuator out without doing this. Oh, by the way, my video is useless unless you disconnect these rods. Thanks for nothing!
This video saved my family $400. Generous and knowledgable people like you make the Internet awesome. Thank you!!!!!
you are most welcomed :)
Thanks for this post! I just successfully replaced the motors on both front doors of my daughter's 2012 Corolla. $13 total. The housing on this Corolla are MUCH more difficult to get into than your Highlander, but I was able to do it. The driver side one was a real pain to get back in the door because that door has a lock cylinder that has to be inserted back into the actuator. I saved about $70 thanks to you.
Thank you for your reply. I actually went ahead and purchased the motor. The one I had the pin was circular and the 4Runner had a half circle. My buddy had a grinder so we achieved the appropriate shape and the door is working excellent. This video saved me well over $300 at the dealership. I did however make a mess of all the clips trying to open it up
Jose, thank you for the video, it was a great help! I replaced it on our 2006 Highlander. I noticed that the metal electrical contacts were dirty, so I cleaned those a little with a Q-tip while in there. Interesting that the motor I got makes a louder noise than the old one, but I kind of don't care too much, since it works. Thank you!
jose ! you are the MAN! "in Capital letters"!!! got mine done thanks to you! thanks again!
Thanks for the video. Saved me a few hundred bucks. $7 on ebay and a few hours today and the actuator works again.
do you have the motor part info other than 12v motor?
My experience: Once you open the piece, clean the contacts with alcohol/sandpaper then after snapping it back together I found that it just pops back open. I used 2 of the holes in the piece that were drilled half way through and drilled them all the way through and then ran a screw through it. No glue or tie wraps, Like new. This was great video and saved me$$$
Thanks for the video! It saved me tons of money $$$$
I own a 2000 Tundra Limited Edition and followed along as much as it applied to what I was doing and improvised what I found that was not the same as your video. One thing I found that I did not see in any video was the removal of the metal guide for the rubber window seal (one nut on the face of the door and a bolt on the bottom side of the door) really opened up the space needed to get the locking mechanism out. I did not get all the way to the electric motor, (I bought a relacement door lock actuator (from Amazon)) and replaced the whole thing start to finish in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. a mechanic told me that my passenger side will probably break down soon, but I will have figured out (using the actuator that I just removed) how to it take apart and hopefully buy the $6 dollar motor.
I really appreciate the time that you (and other) videographers took to help us
Again, Much Mahalo (Thanks) for the help
Aloha from Hawaii
Roy
Roo27
Roy Rodrigues aloha Roy,,,,,I'm glad it helped you in any way possible. Since I did the video, I've had 3 of my 4 doors locking mechanism / actuators fail....I've done this job over and over again, saved money like so many others. buying the motor is cheaper, at the same time, buying the actuator buys you less work. Great job my friend.
Thanks for the video!!
For those who are attempting the front door mechanisms you will need to release the locking rods from the clips. The easiest way to do this is to remove the plastic plug on the door just above the door latch mechanism(will reveal red clipped rod) and use the torx driver to punch the yellow clipped rod out from this direction. Make sure to unlock the clip before you punch.
Also you may need an adhesive to make the cover stay closed after repair. I used superglue after the motor opened the cover after three or four actuations.
The part number used was the one in the description. I ordered straight from ebay. If you type in the part number he's listed choose the flat shaft, standard length one. ($10.50 as of 02/27/2014)
Yes I agree with glueing or taping the black cover of the actuator together. You don't want it falling apart and having to do the job again
Thanks, just saved $180 it works perfectly and interesting thing is that i was looking for motor in search on ebay and it cost $20 but your model in description cost really $6. Just needed to stop more detaily on removing yellow clip- the most difficult part
Thanks for making this video, it helped me make a similar repair on my own Toyota Camry (after some additional research). You deserve that money I would have paid Toyota to do this for me!
Chris Moffett you are most welcome, anything to keep more money in your pocket
Chris Moffett I have a 2009 Camry would this work? Also what part number would you use to replace the motor?
V Rod have you found the solution to ur 2009 camry?i have a 2010 camry and dealer quoted me 1200 to fix all 4 door motors i need help...
Great video.
Just replaced the power door lock actuator motor ($6.50 on eBay.com) on the front right on my 2006 Highlander.
Now works fine.
I should have taken some pics before I took the actuator apart. Had to re-install several times.
Took your advise and zip tied the actuator cover together. Hope this keeps working.
Great job. Thanks.
Bill Duke Cool ! I am glad you fixed your door actuator !
Thank you - literally saved me several hundreds and great kudos from my sweetheart for knocking this out
Great video.....only one problem. Customers see this and think ALL years of Toyota Highlanders are this way. Try this, tell them that labor for this repair is WAY more and in the end the total cost to them is the same....
Thank you! I fixed the power door lock on my 2006 Toyota Highlander after watching your video.
Awesome !!!
Had 2 doors on an 2012 Highlander doing the same thing. Didn't even need to buy new motors. I cleaned all the contacts, used dielectric grease and put foam on the top of the motor to help stop movement due to vibrations. Oxidation and vibration don't play well with electric circuits. Took under two hours to do both doors.
Great video. I have the same problem as other commenters. It worked great for a second, grinding noises, and then burned out the replacement motor. Actually the original motor was working fine before the replacement. I had planned to do all 4 doors and started with the rear left, even though it was working fine, so that I could follow your exact procedure before attempting the driver's door which is actually burned out. Now I have two burned out doors.
OK, I figured it out. It turned out that the motor worked the two halves of the clamshell apart just like Mikael Phigaro warned in his comment. I glued the clamshell and it seems to work fine now.
I then did the driver door and had the hardest time getting the lock rod with the yellow clip free. Even with the clip unlocked I had to use enough force to bend the rod and break the clip before it came free of the door handle. From other reading online I've seen this is a common problem. Nissan service centers evidently consider replacing this clip a common part of any door/lock work. I jimmy rigged something for now, but will need to order another yellow clip.
For anyone contemplating this repair for a front door, I'd order both the actuator motors and the yellow clips before starting. Otherwise you may wind up like me needing to open up the door multiple times. One to fix the motor and then again later to replace the yellow clip.
Johan Von Muskeln thank you Johan for pointing this out, I have updated the description so others will know to glue the clamshell back together after replacing the motor
Johan Von Muskeln Do you have the part number of the yellow clip?
Thank you! I'll take it apart before I order the motor. Saved me a lot of money.
I have a 2000 toyota corolla and have been looking for a repair video like this. Thank you very much and I will be looking on ebay for the part and will get started immediately. My Toyota dealer in Bakersfield tried to sell me the part and labor for around $1000...not going to happen...thanks again.
I'm glad you found it helpful.....It's easy to do once you take apart the actuator... buy the motor and simply replace it.... if you have question, please let me know
jruiz0305 Replacing this motor will allow my door lock to open and should be able to allow me to open the door from the inside right? Currently we have to roll down the window and open the door from the outside handle. The handle inside works but will not open the door. The Toyota dealer in Bakersfield Ca (Bill Wright) said we needed a new actuator.....for $1000....crazy
azrael758 yes, however, another possibility could be that the wire attached from the inside door handle to the actuator came off loose, but the only way to know is to look. If I was you, I would buy the motor, get to the actuator. If there is cable loose, then reattach it. I doubt it will simply be the cable though. Betting it's the actuator, I would replace the motor. You kills two birds with one stone, i.e. reattaching the cable and placing a new motor. Consider it a small maintenance gesture, saving yourself from doing this job twice in the future and having $1000 more in your pocket.
Thanks for the video. I have a 92 Previa with a similar problem. I have different vehicle, but this video gives me an idea of where to start. Great video!
starr shine great I hope you can fix your second vehicle, too.
This was a huge help! Thank you for posting this. I used the same process on my 2006 Toyota Sienna. If you do this, make sure you re-set the door handle mechanism when installing the part with the new motor.
+John Tyler what part did you use?
myheartisinob I used: Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Repair Motors Flat Shaft - Brass Collar FC-280PC-22125. I did this back in 2014 and it still works great today! You have to absolutely make sure you have the right part. I think you have to get the flat shaft, but I can't fully remember. Good luck!
Tried it. Worked for a second, then it started grinding gears and burnt out the second one.
Great video, I'm sure I just messed it up somewhere along the way.
I'm not sure what might be going on with your installation, but mine is still working fine. Make sure to lube the gears with some grease that can be found around the immediate area of the gears.
Wish you'ld've finished that vid. I'm right at that spot right now. One of the copper contacts is broken away from the shaft of the little rc motor. it works but only in the push out (unlock) direction. I did give a real nice sweat equity try but an air compressor and a rag can't make a little bitty copper contact just reappear. I did a great job of cleaning and replacing my original door lock actuator but once i looked REAL close i finally gave in to an online order of the actuator. ALMOST had it, I already know that any little bits of dirt can make any electronic equipment act out ghostly. My actuator is missing an itty bitty, super easy to break on its own over time, copper contact arm that holds around part of the shaft of the brushless motor.
great video showing how to remove parts. the actuator can be repaired by cleaning the motor rather than replacing it. clean the inside of the motor with a wire brush and WD40. Then reassemble.
great idea !
only my motor was toast, burnt out
jruiz0305, thanks for the DIY video! I have a 97 Camry LE. Is there a list or table somewhere that gives us the specific motor that is compatible with our vehicle? I'm trying to order the part before I disassemble everything.
Thanks man for the video but I'm having problem taking out the rod by knocking it out of the plastic fixture. I'm scared of breaking the whole thing and it's gonna cost me more. I have a 2004 Rav4, and your video is right on the money except taking out the metal rod. Can u help me some more? Thanks.
Hey, great Video. Is this to fix the power door lock/unlock problem when the remote is press?
Cho Mumaa yes, it could be, but also check your battery on the remote.
Do you have a video on how to change the motor for the windows? I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander, limited
Jose so my symptom is that only my passenger side door will not remotely lock. All others lock with the remote but not passenger. Will this fix that problem?
Bro, yours is easy to open. Im trying the same with a used unit for a 2009 W204 Mercedes C class rear door actuator that got stuck on lock mode. Cannot open the door from inside or outside. Ive managed to remove the inner lining and then thr door card, now theres an aluminium panel that holds some components. All I eant is the door opened first in order to carry on with replacing. They made this so difficult so it looks like one piece actuator that seems to be held from one side to another with some pins and probably I have to drill them in order to have access to the motor.
I have 96 camry ...the problem is just like that. the look does not work. I need to replace the actuator. I saw you just replaced the electric part....where you get that part. please help. Thanks.
Thank you so much!! Please -- what glue is best? I'm using super glue, but I've had bad luck gluing plastic with super glue. Fingers crossed!
Luke S I used a zip tie. So far so good.
I would NOT glue it. You may have to go back in there - like I had to.
Great video, i wished i have seen it before i began disassembling the acuator. I have have the same problem on my Toyota corolla 2005, i removed everything including the motor and the motor have another model number from the one you used ( specifications in the descreption).. do you thing it will fine or it has to be the same exact model number? Thanks
I actually used a different motor from the one listed, it was a long round sharft, instead of the correct short flat shaft. With the long shaft, i had to cut it to the appropriate length, and then I used a dremmel tool to shape the shaft to a flat piece. So yes you can use a different motor, but if you order the correct motor, it will make things easier
Thanks
Kurt Baldacchino Hey Kurt, I have an 06 Corolla and need to do the same repair. Was the motor in your car round/flat shaft, long/standard length? Want to have the right motor handy before I start. Thanks.
stiggle1212 Hi mine was round with a flat tip and it fits perfectly.
Kurt Baldacchino Thanks. Was the shaft long/short (20mm/10mm)?
Thanks so much! This is going to save me time and money!
I need to reconnect the door handle rod to the actuator 93 Toyota corolla . I can't see it and there are no images or TH-cam's on this simple fix. Do I need to take out the whole actuator to do this ? That seems silly .
I can feel it, and I could wire it together blind but ,there must be a better way?
Thank you for the video.
I have a 2004 toyota 4runner sr5, I was wondering out of the different motors which one will work on my car. On the forums it is difficult to find the right one. Would you be able to be as specific as possible or even add the link? Thanks for the video..going to save me tons of money
Hi Man, I only know about motors for the Highlander, however, I would assume Toyota uses the same exact motor in all their vehicles, but the actuator housing might be different. What matters is the motor, not the actuator (because you are not changing the door mechanism by changing the motor). If I had a 4runner, I would go ahead and purchase the inexpensive motor(s), take down your door, remove the old motor, and then see if the new motor fits. If it does, you' re done.
Another alternative, if you don't want to take the door down twice (double work) is to buy the 2 different motors. If the first motor doesn't fit, most likely the second motor will. That way, once the door is taken down, it's a matter of simply installing the motor that fits and eliminating the one that doesn't.
You can save unused motors for a future vehicles or have them handy for friend in need.
Nice thought out vide, thanks!
my pleasure, hope it helps
hey i just got a toyota highlander 2005 but it does not have a turn on switch for fog lights. can you help.
All four of my door locks on my Camry stopped working, one at a time until they were all out. The dealership wants $2000 to replace the actuators. I might have to try this instead.
Does this same motor fit into a 2008 door locking mechanism?
How do you know if it is the actuator motor and not something else like the computer module or something?
Thank you for the video. I replaced my drivers side actuator motor about 6 months ago per your instructions and it worked perfect. now when I unlock the lock I can hear the motor for about 2-3 seconds unlocking door. Before it just opened like new but now it opens lock but stays on 2-3 seconds making a noise. It locks fine but now have an unlock problems. Any ideas? Thanks.
Try cleaning all the contacts then use dielectric grease on the contacts. I put a small piece of pipe insulation foam on the top of the motor. The plastic housing the motor will keep it in place and will decrease the movement of the contacts moving back and forth.
What is incredible is that I've known a few, ah, people, who have EXTENSIVELY tested, and re-tested, and re-tested again, various cheaply made, small, battery powered , um , motors. And they often ran for many, many, too many, hours, in some unspeakably damp places. Yet here we see these are breaking from 2 or three seconds of daily use.
Right.
what was the length of the shaft on the motor? There are multiple lengths
EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125
Get the "SHORT" length. Do not get the "long" length, otherwise your going to have to cut the length.
Chuy Chuy It might be the same motor, but I'm not sure. If the shaft is too long, you can simply cut it with a dremmel
Hi Jose I got a question for you? Where did you get your motor for your door actuator can you tell me please thank you
Hi,you can check this link:www.ebay.com/itm/352845943899
great video but how do I find that motor? do you by any chance have a part number? I have a 2005 Toyota Highlander as well with the same problem
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDIFLAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15UWYNJPJ88NF
So I followed your instructions for a bad power lock on a 2004 toyota rav 4 and now that lock works reverse all the other locks. Do you think its a motor issue or when I put the clamshell back together something wasn't right? Thanks
+jason goldenberg Hi, I am not familiar with the Rav 4 actuator, my best guess is one of two things, 1)either the polarity on the motor is reversed, which means the motor is incorrect for your rav4 2) Did the gears fall out when you opened the clamshell? try reversing the gears? I am not sure why your door would open opposite.I hope you figure it out and post back for other members to know
will this work on my 2000 tundra?
Just curious if you bothered to test the old motor by applying 12 volts of DC power directly to the motor's electrical contacts to determine if it would still spin.
jeffersonianideal when I took the motor out, one of the contacts had burnt residue, so I knew the motor was toast....I could have tested it with 12V, but it’s a lot of work to get down to the motor, and even if it was fine, I would still replace the motor with a new one since you’re probably going to replace it anyways depending on how old the car is
Thank you for your reply. I connected contacts located on the back of the motor to two wires that led to a 12 volt power source. After giving the motor a couple of turns it began to run without hesitation.
I plan to go ahead and replace the entire actuator on the passenger door but may attempt to replace only the motors on the rear doors and possibly the driver's side door.
I used contact spray in an attempt to clean out the motor. After doing so, I tested the motor once again and it still ran fine. However, I could not get the old actuator and old motor to work when I reinstalled the device.
I will be installing the new actuator later this week.
jeffersonianideal play around with the placement of the motor and how it engages with the spindle, you might get it to work if it’s just stuck
Thanks again. I may experiment with the old motor once more but the driver's side actuator is also not working and one of the rear door actuators is faulty as well. Considering the exorbitant cost of having a Lexus dealership or even a private mechanic perform the work, paying $45.00 or so for an aftermarket door lock actuator assembly doesn't seem to be too outrageous.
I ended up replacing the actuators in driver's side and passenger side doors but I performed a bit of forensic post-mortem on the motors. For at least one of the rear actuators, I will attempt a motor transplant. I'll do so just for the satisfaction of being able to boast about an $8.00 repair of an item that would have cost hundreds for a dealer to replace.
thanks for the video! i really needed it!! can you tell me what type of motor you used to replace it and where i can buy it?
EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125
Get the "SHORT" length. Do not get the "long" length, otherwise your going to have to cut the length.
awesome! thank you for the help!
Thanks man its help me a lot
+M K zaman you are welcome !
Does a 2002 Toyota Ravv4 use the same motor? Thanks!
The rav and highlander actuators I believe are different in terms of actuator assembly shape, but the motor inside I believe might be the same - but I'm not sure? I actually bought the wrong motor for my highlander, but I was able to cut the length and shave the stem to flat with a dremmel. In other words, I improvised, and made the motor fit the actuator assembly, and I think if I had a rav actuator, I would have been able to do the same. Only way to know is open your rav actuator, look at the motor, and compare to the photo off eBay ?
Worked for me.
2002 Toyota Rav4
its better to just replace the motor if thats the only problem.....i decided to buy a $15 actuator unit from ebay....for whatever reason the travel of the manual lock button was lessen....would lock automatically when door is closed. ended up ripping it apart to get the motor and transfer it to the original toyota actuator
Where did u buy that motor
EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125
Get the "SHORT" length. Do not get the "long" length, otherwise your going to have to cut the length.
Does anyone know if this works on the 2010 Highlander. 3 doors and the back hatch all out now. Toyota door locks suck. Already spent hundreds on 06 Avalon for lock actuator.
what do you call the motor, i looked on ebay and there are only assemblies for the door lock actuator,,I am looking for a motor for 2008 tundra
Thanks
EBay part for HIghlander is: Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125
should be the same for Tundra, but not sure
jruiz0305
will the Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125 fit a 2008 Highlander assembly?
javalos2000 I think it should fit a 2008 Highlander, not sure why Toyota would change the motor from 2005 to 2008, only way to find out is open your actuator, but by then, you have done all disassembly work, and I would have the motor on hand, ready to be installed
jruiz0305 FYI… It does fit. Another FYI for other do it your self-readers. Test the actuator with the door open before you close it. I installed the new motor in the actuator and installed it back into the driver side door then assembled the door ready to go then, I closed the door and tested the actuator and as Murphy's Law would have it; what can happen did happen. The door locked and the actuator gears jammed up (most likely installer error) with the door closed and locked. I had no way of accessing the actuator at that moment. The door handle was not working (both inside and out), the locking lever was stuck, the key lock at the handle would not budge, the power locks worked fine with the other doors except the driver side door. I tried a slim-jim and other improvised devices but that did me no good. I was at wits end and thought I would have to find a way to cut the door off. I stepped away from the situation to do some thinking. I then decided to open the passenger side door to attempt the install of the second motor into the passenger side actuator; this time I tested it before I closed the door and it was perfect. What I did notice while removing the passenger side door panel was the inside window weather strip was not attached to the door panel. (a light turns on in my mind, hmm) I went back to the frustrating driver side door and managed to wedge the door panel partially open from the top; I opened it as much as I could with extremely limited space. I managed to remove the cables from the door latch to include the lock and attempt to pull and push the cables but no luck (you can only imagine all the kind and peaceful words running in my mind and many out loud). The next day, after I returned from work, I decided to give it another shot (in my mind I had decided I was going to have to cut into the door to remove it and buy a new door; I even priced a few). With the panel partially opened I could feel the actuator and the open and locking cables running to it; I could even touch the outside door handle lever that connects to the actuator and tried pushing it down but it was not budging (again more kind words exchanged with the door). Using a small mirror, I could now see the actuator and thought to myself, if I split open the actuator maybe, just maybe, the jam would give (remember the spacing is extremely limited and movement was just as bad). I used a large standard screw driver and managed to wedge it into the cable compartment for the lock. I wedged the actuator partially open and somehow the cable unlatched itself and I removed it (thinking to myself it’s still in good shape, one less thing I have to buy). I kept the screw driver in the locking compartment and continued to push, twist, cuss, etc... The wife came out to see what I was doing and asked “any luck” I said yes with the passenger side door and all other are working fine I used the remote to lock and unlock to show her at that time, the battery became drained ( you can only imagine my thoughts). So, I decided what the heck, let me try the opening the door one last time; I stuck my hand into the door felt the actuator and located the opening lever and pushed it down and the door opened (euphoria). In a nutshell, I believe by accidentally removing the cable from the actuator lock lever and eventually (more luck than anything) I hit the lock lever inside the actuator and eventually manage to unlock the actuator. Either way anyone wants to slice this pie, I saved $$ and gained experience.
Where can you buy the actuator motor for 2007 Toyota Highlander?
Hi,you can check this link:www.ebay.com/itm/352845943899
Looks like the same motor that is in my 2005 Lexus RX330 door lock actuator.
how did you look up the motor on ebay? i tried and it comes up as the whole $200-$300 dollar assembly and not just the $6 motor. were there specific key words you used or didn't use?
Hanna Anderson type in "Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125" on Ebay, you'll see the motor
Whats the name of the part? How should I search for it on Ebay?
+Christopher Ortega EBay part : Mabuchi Nichibo Flat Shaft - Standard Length Motor FC-280PC-22125
jruiz0305 s
Where to get the motor? Thank you
Hi,you can check this link:www.ebay.com/itm/352845943899
Will this (and this exact part number) work with a 2001 Toyota Avalon (Passenger Side Front)?? I see many remarks that have used it successfully for other various Toyo models... but none for Toyota Avalon. If it will not, does anyone have a part number I can search for that will work? OR If I take the OEM motor out will I be able to see a part number on the motor itself for the OEM motor (or whoever supplies the motor to Toyo) and simply order that (or at least cross reference to another motor that will work). I agree... having the motor at hand when you take the housing apart is ideal... I just want to make sure I have the CORRECT motor... HELP! :-)
5:30 actuator motor removed.
9:28 "just pause it" dude forgets how to reassemble part LOL
Be careful. The newer Highlanders have a D shaped shaft on the motor and the motor part #'s listed here don't work
I have a 2005 highlander v6 and it is different than the one in the video.
Eric Dombrosky I have a 2006 Highlander. Replaced the right front actuator motor.
I used @111593275419
Sold by zink86 on eBay.com. Working great. Good luck!
good video
Flat Shaft Auto Motor Car Door Lock Mirror FC280PC/FC-280 8-16V
Tred to change the actuator as per the video.......NO GO!! Video left out One important area. The mechanical rods that connect the actuator to the door handle and key lock. Could not figure out how to disconnect these rods and one CANNOT get the actuator out without doing this. Oh, by the way, my video is useless unless you disconnect these rods. Thanks for nothing!
have a 2001 Sienna and the Alarm doesn't chirp to unlock, is this the same problem,?
I am not sure, do you mean the button alarm from your key fob? In that case, you may need to replace the battery in your key fob???