thanks to your videos I just finished the the cement level part, now I'll go with the tiles. Now I understand why you love so much your blue knee support, I ended up with my knees in pain and very red. Thanks again
Tiling is a very much under appreciated trade Sal. I was under the impression the bottom row of wall tiles were placed after the floor was finished, so when primer and best available silicon was used to seal the floor / wall junction, the sealant sealed the run off rather than direct water 'fall'. Of course masking the areas to be sealed to achieve the best possible appearance goes without saying. Your thoughts?
There is so much water in a shower that it really makes no difference how the the wall tile meets the floor tile in the shower. The approach I take is to install the tile in the most efficient way, sometimes that means installing the shower floor first, sometimes leaving out the bottom row of wall tile, sometimes installing the wall tile first. As far as water management goes, what matters is that adequate measures are taken to waterproof the shower stall. In most cases I will apply a liquid waterproofing to the entire surface of the shower, including the deck mud, depending on the type of backer board, and if there is the presence of a vapor barier behind the board. I take all measures needed to ensure that the shower never leaks. The link is a series of videos describing how to waterproof a shower with Denshield backerboard, if the backer board had been a cement board then the only difference would be that the entire surface would also be coated th-cam.com/play/PLiB6hq5lQ3h3Tieji67lN4lrGPhrLwngf.html
I was just surfin ,looking at large format installs by way of Brevetti Montolit and got snoopy,, most of the time we wet set all shower floors, learned all these and more much later,, but hydroban came our way and it,s off we go on another adventure. and I'm only 74 and still doin it. there must be two dozen methods for shower floors by now. anyway you do good stuf Sal,, the guy who taught me was Sal from New CITY, NY. wish I had a camera set up, I would post up a complete wet set with semi-vitrious 16x16 I'm doing tomorrow.
hey Sal -Do you caulk the last row of wall tiles that are against the pan? And also do you leave gap on shower floor to wall connection Grout or Caulk? Thanks in advance for your expertise. Your videos are awesome!!
Great job as usual, it's nice when everything falls in full isn't it? More recently I've been going with square drains to try to eliminate small cuts around the drain. Of course it depends on the tile size but a lot of times I can get full tiles around the square drain if I lay everything out dry like yourself.
The square drains are nice, makes things a little easier, but I have been doing the round ones for so long it does not bother me to cut around them, I does take alittle longer but I like the look of the round more.
I had similar tiles but when i placed them they went everywhere and i didn't have enuff spacers so the end result is meh. I used nice allset per bag settings, but i now see the mesh on the back of the 1'ftsq pieces is very flexible. a more rigid mesh would keep them aligned with little adjustment is my guess.
Nice job. If I have a shower with a center drain, one side is not draining, other side is. Should I remove only one side or tear out the whole floor and start over? Which way would be easier for me. I have handyman capabilities. I can do it but have never done it.
Maybe you can remove the tile without removing the dry pack, fix the low spot, and put new tile in. You will know what you will have to do once you start ripping it out, sometimes it is just not possible to make a repair without replacing the whole shower floor. Sometimes you can.
Hi Sal, Looks like you did a beautiful job. I just moved into a brand new home where the water does not drain out of the shower completely. After an hour there is still water in the same 6-8" diameter around the drain. It is about 1/4" deep. I've taken a level to the tile. On two sides it looks like the tile is level with the drain and where the deepest pooling, there appears to be a nice slope, but I believe the drain sits higher than the tile. Over the course of the day the water disappears, but I could not possibly evaporate that quickly. Is this something that could lead to problems? Thanks!
Plug the drain with a test plug so no water can go down the drain, pour some water on the shower floor about an inch deep, mark the height. Let it sit overnight, check to see if the water is still at the height of your mark. If it is, then no problem, if the water is lower or gone, then you have a leak somewhere in the shower floor. Just make sure the drain is completly sealed before you add the water.
Few questions and thanks for your time: 1) I see a spectralock bucket. What are your thoughts on using this (or any) epoxy grout. It sounds to good to be true but I'm a little scared to try it. 2) How much space do you put between the drain and the adjacent tiles? Is that supposed to be a grout joint there or is it right up to the drain with no grout? 3) I'm getting lots of help over at the John Bridge tile forum. They are sticklers for using caulk for EVERY SINGLE change in plane. I would much rather use grout because caulk can be a pain to maintain! Do I have your blessing to use grout instead? If so, where is this okay and where not okay? Thank you!
I have used Epoxy grout often enough, and I still avoid it where possible, that being said as long as you follow directions you should be fine, and yes there is a small space between the drain and tile. Also, Caulk where it is called for, no grout, no blessing, sorry.
Hey Sal. This is a really helpful video. One question: What is the mixture that you put over the top of the tile? (at the 12:40 mark) Is it Sand + thinset? Thanks very much!
Hi Sal - say you didn't get lucky with your tile spacing, and you had to cut a row of tiles in half. Would the cut look better against the curb/entrance, or against the back wall?
What type of adhesive did you use for the tile to adhere to the floor. I have an old house (i.e., built in the early 30's) with old pink ceramic tiles that are coming loose from the concrete floor in the children's bathroom. Assuming I can find replacement tiles, I was wondering what type of adhesive to use to have them adhere to the concrete floor.
What thinset would you recommend I buy for my shower? Also how far from the wall should the tile be spaced in the shower pan? I’ve been told to keep an 1/8” gap all the way around....is this correct?
As far as type of thinset, depends on what system you are using, Watch these videos' Movement joints th-cam.com/video/JsfE1Mle4Zc/w-d-xo.html Thinset mortar th-cam.com/video/S80GVg4Y4MU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you! That was helpful. Just wanting some reassurance that I have this right now. You DO NOT grout the edge of a tile showered pan....instead I should use a flexible/waterproofed silicone?
I am converting a laundry room into a handicapped shower room. I am a novice diy renovator. Can you walk me through a curbless 4 ft linear drain shower? My husband wants a metal pan. What is your take on this? what would we need to do? Clueless female lol. The shower and floor will be tile. How far out and up do we need to red gard?
Ok I have a dumb question. Do you really need to tile a shower pan or can you add a color or dye to the mud to match the tile on the wall then paint or treat the pan you built to repel water?
Chicken Friedfish The type of mud that is used to build a shower pan is not a wear surface, so no, you would have to use some other material for the shower floor or use some other kind of pan.
Come on Sal!! The mark of any good tile guy would have been to play off that full tile side to side like you did it on purpose. Built out the one wall so it would fit perfect
Sal, the black waterproofing, is that some kind of paint? I was going to lay my tile straight onto concrete basement without waterproofing or liner. What should i use to waterproof if anything??? Please help!
What is the black waterproofing called that you used in this video? Is it tar? How do i waterproof over concrete? I don't think paint qualifies because i don't think it can hold the concrete down.
I went to Home Depot and a lady said to use Red Guard to waterproof the concrete basement floor under the shower, but she didnt really know what to do.
CrossMission7 That is the last place you want to get advice. Here is a time lapse of how to build a shower in a basement. th-cam.com/video/n9nkSeHGoMc/w-d-xo.html
I have porcelain tile in my shower what are your thoughts sanded vs unsanded the joints are less than 1/4 in thats why i was thinking about unsanded grout. But all i hear is not to use it. What are your thoughts?
There is actually a rule regarding unsanded and sanded grout. Grout joints 1/8" or smaller get unsanded, grout joints 1/8" or larger get sanded grout. So the 1/8" magic number can be either, but i usually use sanded. Do not use unsanded grout in large grout lines, it wil crack, it will not fill the joint properly, and will look ugly.
Sal DiBlasi preslope, liner, dry pack. Durock on walls and curb with red guard waterproofing. In this video you painted the whole floor including the mud pan. Some say it would be contradictory to the mud bed not being able to breathe. Just wondering your thoughts. I’ve seen it done both ways. What do you think?
Great helpful videos! If you already have a pre-slope and liner, pebbled weep holes under your shower bed, do you still need to add Redgard on top of the shower bed? Doesn't that mean the deck mud below wont' absorb any water that penetrates through the floor tiles/grout? If you add Redgard on the floor and water ever gets below the tile won't it just sit there?
+Sal DiBlasi Ok I see, but what about any water that gets through the grout/tile but stays above the Redgard? Won't it just sit there? If it moves towards the drain it's still stuck below drain and above paint membrane, right? Your videos have been invaluable so tnx again!!
The only water that will "sit there" is that which has been absorbed by the thinset and grout, which is true for any system, there is no free space for water to accumulate it will evaporate between uses. When the mud is left untreated the whole large mass of mud can become saturated ant it can absorb gallons of water which must makes it way down to the weep holes and out the drain.
If you want to use large tile, then you will have to have a flat pitch which means you will have to use a linear drain. Otherwise you will have to split the tiles to make them conform to the curve of a floor sloped to a center drain, which usually does not work very well.
+Tyson Beaton With the amount of water in a shower makes no difference which you tile first, besides i waterproof everything, so you could take a shower even before the tile goes up and it will not leak. That being said, most of the time i do put the wall tile on top of the floor tile, but it al depends on circumstances.
Hi - Nice job , for the grout , do you use waterproofing additive ? I ask as I can only buy cement where I live for my shower floor mosaic , and I figured it would need to be made waterproof , correct?
The shower should be waterproofed before the tile is installed, but you can mix the grout with an additive to make it stain resistant. You can not make it waterproof with an additive.
No, you either need to use Ditra or cement backer board with a water proofing membrane like redguard on top of the cement board before using thinset and tile.
SAL......we had our bathroom remodeled with tile. Walls and shower. It is beautiful, but the shower tiles keep coming up around the drain. My hubby replaced the drain and re cut new tiles but now 2 months later the same thing is happening. Water is getting under the tiles somehow. We bought everything from Home Depot that was required for the task but are still having an issue. Do you have any advice?
Could be a multitude of things, what kind of adhesive was used to set the tile? Did it come in a bag which had to be mixed, or did it come in a bucket and look like a paste? Is the tile a stone or man made? What is the base of the shower made of? Is there movement at the drain? Is the base solid or not? These are just a few questions that pop in my head.
I have a similar problem, with a mosaic mat of tiles, they come off around the drain and there is some water getting down around the drain. Should I prop some cement down around the drain before reinstalling the tiles? should I use acrylic or silicone around the drain?
Charlotta Oddsdóttir Best thing to do have a qualified installer take a look at it, like i said in an earlier comment there are just too many veritable to be able to know what might be going on.
so you dont always follow tcna guides about change of planes being caulked. because the floor tiles were done after walls and was grouted, in a years time that grout will separate, water will now have a clear path to go under shower floor tiles.. not good
Does the shower floor go in first or the wall tile. Does the order matter? Do you grout in between the floor and wall tile or do you just use caulk? TIA
If you have constructed your shower properly, it really does not matter, if you want to follow TCNA guidelines then all changes of palin and where tile meets a dissimilar material should have a soft joint.
Look harder, makes no difference when the shower floor is installed. The shower needs to be waterproof regardless of the order in which the tile is installed.
Sal DiBlasi you have the grout line between the floor and wall tile completely exposed. as opposed to having the water slide down the wall tile onto the floor and sloping down to the drain with the grout line underneath the wall tile, you've left that grout line completely exposed having the water fall directly onto it and the caulking and grout will not hold on very long. also, you used aquadefense on the pan, which is Good, but what happens to the thinset when there is water sitting there with your incorrect pan installation? it doesn't hold. There is a code we follow believe it or Not, and I like your videos, but unfortunately this one is incorrect and can cause viewers to have problems down the road.
Sorry I disagree, with the amount of water falling on the floor from the shower it will make no difference which way the grout line is oriented, it does not need to shed water, it needs to be waterproof. Also by waterproofing the shower floor I have turned this "Water in Water Out" system into a "Sealed System". Kind of like the Divot method, however because of the design of the drain, the pan still needs to be present. I actually avoid these type of shower systems these days and usually go with Schluter or some other type of Sealed system. I could also argue that a shower with a traditional type of liner actually functions by having water trickle down through the mud bed to the weep holes of the drain and out through the plumbing. You need to take into consideration the whole system and how it functions, not just which way a grout line might be, vertical or horizontal. By the way, if you are an installer, look into Tile Geeks on Facebook and ask to join, facebook.com/groups/TileGeeks/ be part of a community of like minded tile setters.
I'm not talking about the actual pan itself, whether its schluter or drypack with aquadefense on it. both fine to work with to prevent any leakage onto the sub floor and everything below it, but your waterproofing does not protect the thinset. Yes, water eventually may get in there due to grout holes or caulking giving in, but youre speeding up the process of water getting in there by allowing that joint to be completely exposed to everything falling on top of it, instead of having it tucked in nicely to the wall tile, and I've seen it before, the tiles themselves start to pop off because that thinset is no longer bonded properly. As pans are sloped, there is no where near enough water doing it that method then the one shown on the video. Even leaving the bottom course out, doing your floor, then tying in the bottom course. I do not disagree with a lot of your videos, and like I stated before I've viewed them and never had a complaint, but with this, especially all the disasters I've had to come in and fix and studying on this for a long time and practicing it, it's hard for me to agree to it. Thanks for the link, I will give it a look.
You are over thinking it. The thinset in any tile installation is always directly below the tile, it will get wet no matter what, by your logic tile in a pool should be falling off in short order. Let's agree to disagree.
There was a time where that was the case but not so much now. Hes got essentially 2 different types of waterproofing systems there with his Kerdi? and aquadefense? That's basically a short bathtub. Even if water gets under the tile it's not going anywhere, it'll just evaporate
Bad layout you shoul install the mosaic tile before the wall battom edge so you eliminate any future water filtration that's not the right way to do a shower floor
Everything is waterproofed, besides do you really think that with the gallons upon gallons of water hitting the shower floor and walls the orientation of the grout line is going to make any difference, believe me it does not. That is why I waterproof everything. Most times I do it the way you suggest, but sometimes it is not possible for a variety of reasons.
+Sal DiBlasi lolol - you never know where a good conversation can occur. don't limit urself Albert lol. Sal you mentioned to me in another comment about a professional tile group that is closed and asked me to msg you privately if i was interested. well i am definitely interested but have no idea how to msg you privately. can you guide me here? i would really enjoy just watching and learning so much! thank you! heathwood.phd@gmail.com
thanks to your videos I just finished the the cement level part, now I'll go with the tiles. Now I understand why you love so much your blue knee support, I ended up with my knees in pain and very red. Thanks again
Thank you for your time and effort, Sir ...
thank u so much for your video I like to do things my self,I'm 61yrs.old & do all my repairs/ remodeling inside & outside
Wow! When lay that mud...you can really go! Ha ha! hanks a bunch, I appreciate you putting the time into this.
Great video on how to manage a small area
Just wondering why the walls were done before. Is this just your preference
Tiling is a very much under appreciated trade Sal. I was under the impression the bottom row of wall tiles were placed after the floor was finished, so when primer and best available silicon was used to seal the floor / wall junction, the sealant sealed the run off rather than direct water 'fall'. Of course masking the areas to be sealed to achieve the best possible appearance goes without saying. Your thoughts?
There is so much water in a shower that it really makes no difference how the the wall tile meets the floor tile in the shower. The approach I take is to install the tile in the most efficient way, sometimes that means installing the shower floor first, sometimes leaving out the bottom row of wall tile, sometimes installing the wall tile first. As far as water management goes, what matters is that adequate measures are taken to waterproof the shower stall. In most cases I will apply a liquid waterproofing to the entire surface of the shower, including the deck mud, depending on the type of backer board, and if there is the presence of a vapor barier behind the board. I take all measures needed to ensure that the shower never leaks. The link is a series of videos describing how to waterproof a shower with Denshield backerboard, if the backer board had been a cement board then the only difference would be that the entire surface would also be coated th-cam.com/play/PLiB6hq5lQ3h3Tieji67lN4lrGPhrLwngf.html
I was just surfin ,looking at large format installs by way of Brevetti Montolit and got snoopy,, most of the time we wet set all shower floors, learned all these and more much later,, but hydroban came our way and it,s off we go on another adventure. and I'm only 74 and still doin it. there must be two dozen methods for shower floors by now. anyway you do good stuf Sal,, the guy who taught me was Sal from New CITY, NY. wish I had a camera set up, I would post up a complete wet set with semi-vitrious 16x16 I'm doing tomorrow.
hey Sal -Do you caulk the last row of wall tiles that are against the pan? And also do you leave gap on shower floor to wall connection Grout or Caulk? Thanks in advance for your expertise. Your videos are awesome!!
I never caulk thst joint, always grout. I know it is contrary to what should be done, but grout just works better in this case
Do you always put grout between the floor tile and wall? Does that cause issues with expansion?
That's ok Sal only kidding I learned a lot watching the video.
Great job as usual, it's nice when everything falls in full isn't it? More recently I've been going with square drains to try to eliminate small cuts around the drain. Of course it depends on the tile size but a lot of times I can get full tiles around the square drain if I lay everything out dry like yourself.
The square drains are nice, makes things a little easier, but I have been doing the round ones for so long it does not bother me to cut around them, I does take alittle longer but I like the look of the round more.
I had similar tiles but when i placed them they went everywhere and i didn't have enuff spacers so the end result is meh. I used nice allset per bag settings, but i now see the mesh on the back of the 1'ftsq pieces is very flexible. a more rigid mesh would keep them aligned with little adjustment is my guess.
Nooooo Kidding !!! That fell into place very nice !!
In your opinion, is a ceramic tile suitable for a curbless shower floor if the water absorption rating is
Sal, what thin set would you recommend for this? Would a premixed thin set work or do I have to buy dry and mix it?
Premixed thinset is junk, use a polymer modified thinset.
@@SalDiBlasi Thanks for the info. This was my question as well.
Excellent job Sal, just wish i could Tile like you!!
Dave. ( UK, Essex)
Nice job. If I have a shower with a center drain, one side is not draining, other side is. Should I remove only one side or tear out the whole floor and start over? Which way would be easier for me.
I have handyman capabilities. I can do it but have never done it.
Maybe you can remove the tile without removing the dry pack, fix the low spot, and put new tile in. You will know what you will have to do once you start ripping it out, sometimes it is just not possible to make a repair without replacing the whole shower floor. Sometimes you can.
Yeah I gotta try.. thanks alot..your videos help so much
The grout is the fun part! lol
Hi Sal, Looks like you did a beautiful job. I just moved into a brand new home where the water does not drain out of the shower completely. After an hour there is still water in the same 6-8" diameter around the drain. It is about 1/4" deep. I've taken a level to the tile. On two sides it looks like the tile is level with the drain and where the deepest pooling, there appears to be a nice slope, but I believe the drain sits higher than the tile. Over the course of the day the water disappears, but I could not possibly evaporate that quickly. Is this something that could lead to problems? Thanks!
Plug the drain with a test plug so no water can go down the drain, pour some water on the shower floor about an inch deep, mark the height. Let it sit overnight, check to see if the water is still at the height of your mark. If it is, then no problem, if the water is lower or gone, then you have a leak somewhere in the shower floor. Just make sure the drain is completly sealed before you add the water.
***** Thanks!!
Few questions and thanks for your time:
1) I see a spectralock bucket. What are your thoughts on using this (or any) epoxy grout. It sounds to good to be true but I'm a little scared to try it.
2) How much space do you put between the drain and the adjacent tiles? Is that supposed to be a grout joint there or is it right up to the drain with no grout?
3) I'm getting lots of help over at the John Bridge tile forum. They are sticklers for using caulk for EVERY SINGLE change in plane. I would much rather use grout because caulk can be a pain to maintain! Do I have your blessing to use grout instead? If so, where is this okay and where not okay?
Thank you!
I have used Epoxy grout often enough, and I still avoid it where possible, that being said as long as you follow directions you should be fine, and yes there is a small space between the drain and tile. Also, Caulk where it is called for, no grout, no blessing, sorry.
Sal DiBlasi thanks for the tip. May I ask why you like to avoid epoxy grout?
Epoxy is just a pain to use.
Hey Sal, why didn't you show how you cut those tile around the drain?
th-cam.com/video/RG1qVohA18Y/w-d-xo.html
Sal DiBlasi cv
Hey Sal is it possible to replace shower floor tile and pan without removing any wall tile?
no
Hey Sal. This is a really helpful video. One question: What is the mixture that you put over the top of the tile? (at the 12:40 mark) Is it Sand + thinset? Thanks very much!
Just some ssnded grout.
Hi Sal - say you didn't get lucky with your tile spacing, and you had to cut a row of tiles in half. Would the cut look better against the curb/entrance, or against the back wall?
+Kristen Nilsen i would say yhe curb where it is kess visible.
Sal DiBlasi rtdy
Hello Sal. Is that a kbrs tile ready tray? Do you recommend it? I'm thinking of purchasing one for my shower install. Thank you
No it is not, I have never used one.
Thanks for posting.
Sal, Do you suggest using ceramic tile on the shower walls? Thanks
There are so many choices, many of which are ceramic.
What type of adhesive did you use for the tile to adhere to the floor. I have an old house (i.e., built in the early 30's) with old pink ceramic tiles that are coming loose from the concrete floor in the children's bathroom. Assuming I can find replacement tiles, I was wondering what type of adhesive to use to have them adhere to the concrete floor.
Modified thinset
What thinset would you recommend I buy for my shower? Also how far from the wall should the tile be spaced in the shower pan? I’ve been told to keep an 1/8” gap all the way around....is this correct?
As far as type of thinset, depends on what system you are using, Watch these videos'
Movement joints th-cam.com/video/JsfE1Mle4Zc/w-d-xo.html
Thinset mortar th-cam.com/video/S80GVg4Y4MU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you! That was helpful. Just wanting some reassurance that I have this right now. You DO NOT grout the edge of a tile showered pan....instead I should use a flexible/waterproofed silicone?
what was green on bed of shower? Was that the watyer proofing? If so what is that material?
I am converting a laundry room into a handicapped shower room. I am a novice diy renovator. Can you walk me through a curbless 4 ft linear drain shower? My husband wants a metal pan. What is your take on this? what would we need to do? Clueless female lol. The shower and floor will be tile. How far out and up do we need to red gard?
You are better off using Schluter or Wedi to achieve a curbless shower, much easier to do. here is one I did th-cam.com/video/i7MMveaLPM8/w-d-xo.html
thank you so much for your hard work and for sharing these videos.
Ok I have a dumb question. Do you really need to tile a shower pan or can you add a color or dye to the mud to match the tile on the wall then paint or treat the pan you built to repel water?
Chicken Friedfish The type of mud that is used to build a shower pan is not a wear surface, so no, you would have to use some other material for the shower floor or use some other kind of pan.
Come on Sal!! The mark of any good tile guy would have been to play off that full tile side to side like you did it on purpose. Built out the one wall so it would fit perfect
good work. How do you made that perfect cut on the ceramic?
Felipe Prado with a wet saw
I want to replace my 45 year old shower floor mosaic tiles with new ones. Can they be easily chiped away? Shower pan is concrete I think.
+Phil Probably not, but if it is in good condition you may be able to get an extension for the drain and tile over it with the correct products.
Sal, the black waterproofing, is that some kind of paint? I was going to lay my tile straight onto concrete basement without waterproofing or liner. What should i use to waterproof if anything??? Please help!
If it is a shower it needs to have some kind of waterproofing and water management system.
What is the black waterproofing called that you used in this video? Is it tar? How do i waterproof over concrete? I don't think paint qualifies because i don't think it can hold the concrete down.
I went to Home Depot and a lady said to use Red Guard to waterproof the concrete basement floor under the shower, but she didnt really know what to do.
CrossMission7 That is the last place you want to get advice. Here is a time lapse of how to build a shower in a basement. th-cam.com/video/n9nkSeHGoMc/w-d-xo.html
What did you use on the floor to stick the tiles to?
How do you cut it. Would be nice to include that. looks like a to simple project
I have several videos that deal with cutting tile.
Sal DiBlasi
I have porcelain tile in my shower what are your thoughts sanded vs unsanded the joints are less than 1/4 in thats why i was thinking about unsanded grout. But all i hear is not to use it. What are your thoughts?
Correction grout lines Less than 1/8 in
There is actually a rule regarding unsanded and sanded grout. Grout joints 1/8" or smaller get unsanded, grout joints 1/8" or larger get sanded grout. So the 1/8" magic number can be either, but i usually use sanded. Do not use unsanded grout in large grout lines, it wil crack, it will not fill the joint properly, and will look ugly.
If they are less than 1/8" then unsanded is fine
Unsanded my brother
you have to tile floors first then finish last row of wall tiles, master blaster
If you say so, but not really.
Is it common practice to waterproof the entire top of shower floor even with a pan liner? I’ve read some places that it would cause a mold sandwich??
Depends on how you are waterproofing.
Sal DiBlasi preslope, liner, dry pack. Durock on walls and curb with red guard waterproofing. In this video you painted the whole floor including the mud pan. Some say it would be contradictory to the mud bed not being able to breathe. Just wondering your thoughts. I’ve seen it done both ways. What do you think?
Your the man! What's the best underlayment for ceramic 4x4 pre spaced tiles? Was going to use mastic on shower walls...good?
***** Ok good to know. Thanks again Sal.
Great helpful videos! If you already have a pre-slope and liner, pebbled weep holes under your shower bed, do you still need to add Redgard on top of the shower bed? Doesn't that mean the deck mud below wont' absorb any water that penetrates through the floor tiles/grout? If you add Redgard on the floor and water ever gets below the tile won't it just sit there?
The liner is rendered redundant and is there just in case.
+Sal DiBlasi Ok I see, but what about any water that gets through the grout/tile but stays above the Redgard? Won't it just sit there? If it moves towards the drain it's still stuck below drain and above paint membrane, right? Your videos have been invaluable so tnx again!!
The only water that will "sit there" is that which has been absorbed by the thinset and grout, which is true for any system, there is no free space for water to accumulate it will evaporate between uses. When the mud is left untreated the whole large mass of mud can become saturated ant it can absorb gallons of water which must makes it way down to the weep holes and out the drain.
Is that done directly on top of hot mop ?
Thnx
@@SalDiBlasi Exactly correct in my opinion and well explained.
What type of adhesive did you use for the floor tiles?
+Phil Thinset
What tool do you use to cut the round tiles for the drain?
Wet saw, you can see me do it on this video How to Cut Curves In Tile at about 3 minutes.
hey what size trowel do you use here?
How do you do this if you aren't using mosaic?
If you want to use large tile, then you will have to have a flat pitch which means you will have to use a linear drain. Otherwise you will have to split the tiles to make them conform to the curve of a floor sloped to a center drain, which usually does not work very well.
Why didn't you tile the floor first so that the water off the wall tile would run on top of the floor tile to the drain instead of against your grout?
+Tyson Beaton With the amount of water in a shower makes no difference which you tile first, besides i waterproof everything, so you could take a shower even before the tile goes up and it will not leak. That being said, most of the time i do put the wall tile on top of the floor tile, but it al depends on circumstances.
+Sal DiBlasi what is that black stuff you have on the floor before you put the tile on?
Jonsen Tran
Waterproofing.
Hi - Nice job , for the grout , do you use waterproofing additive ? I ask as I can only buy cement where I live for my shower floor mosaic , and I figured it would need to be made waterproof , correct?
The shower should be waterproofed before the tile is installed, but you can mix the grout with an additive to make it stain resistant. You can not make it waterproof with an additive.
Cheers ! additive to the mud for the base. This is for a concrete floor.
Not sure what you are asking.
To prep the cement base on top of the concrete floor I would need to add additive - plasticiser to make the cement waterproof
I got it - thank you.
No, you either need to use Ditra or cement backer board with a water proofing membrane like redguard on top of the cement board before using thinset and tile.
you should blue tape all around the walls so the grout dont mix
SAL......we had our bathroom remodeled with tile. Walls and shower. It is beautiful, but the shower tiles keep coming up around the drain. My hubby replaced the drain and re cut new tiles but now 2 months later the same thing is happening. Water is getting under the tiles somehow. We bought everything from Home Depot that was required for the task but are still having an issue. Do you have any advice?
Could be a multitude of things, what kind of adhesive was used to set the tile? Did it come in a bag which had to be mixed, or did it come in a bucket and look like a paste? Is the tile a stone or man made? What is the base of the shower made of? Is there movement at the drain? Is the base solid or not? These are just a few questions that pop in my head.
I have a similar problem, with a mosaic mat of tiles, they come off around the drain and there is some water getting down around the drain. Should I prop some cement down around the drain before reinstalling the tiles? should I use acrylic or silicone around the drain?
Charlotta Oddsdóttir Best thing to do have a qualified installer take a look at it, like i said in an earlier comment there are just too many veritable to be able to know what might be going on.
I was disappointed that you didn’t show how to cut the curve pieces around the drain. Otherwise, Thumbs Up.
Plenty of other videos on my channel.
3 words, Full Tile Sal
😊👍
so you dont always follow tcna guides about change of planes being caulked. because the floor tiles were done after walls and was grouted, in a years time that grout will separate, water will now have a clear path to go under shower floor tiles.. not good
Does the shower floor go in first or the wall tile. Does the order matter? Do you grout in between the floor and wall tile or do you just use caulk? TIA
If you have constructed your shower properly, it really does not matter, if you want to follow TCNA guidelines then all changes of palin and where tile meets a dissimilar material should have a soft joint.
Why would you lay the shower floor last? as a licensed installer that is the wrong way of doing it, i have never seen that done.
Look harder, makes no difference when the shower floor is installed. The shower needs to be waterproof regardless of the order in which the tile is installed.
Sal DiBlasi you have the grout line between the floor and wall tile completely exposed. as opposed to having the water slide down the wall tile onto the floor and sloping down to the drain with the grout line underneath the wall tile, you've left that grout line completely exposed having the water fall directly onto it and the caulking and grout will not hold on very long.
also, you used aquadefense on the pan, which is Good, but what happens to the thinset when there is water sitting there with your incorrect pan installation? it doesn't hold.
There is a code we follow believe it or Not, and I like your videos, but unfortunately this one is incorrect and can cause viewers to have problems down the road.
Sorry I disagree, with the amount of water falling on the floor from the shower it will make no difference which way the grout line is oriented, it does not need to shed water, it needs to be waterproof. Also by waterproofing the shower floor I have turned this "Water in Water Out" system into a "Sealed System". Kind of like the Divot method, however because of the design of the drain, the pan still needs to be present. I actually avoid these type of shower systems these days and usually go with Schluter or some other type of Sealed system. I could also argue that a shower with a traditional type of liner actually functions by having water trickle down through the mud bed to the weep holes of the drain and out through the plumbing. You need to take into consideration the whole system and how it functions, not just which way a grout line might be, vertical or horizontal. By the way, if you are an installer, look into Tile Geeks on Facebook and ask to join, facebook.com/groups/TileGeeks/ be part of a community of like minded tile setters.
I'm not talking about the actual pan itself, whether its schluter or drypack with aquadefense on it. both fine to work with to prevent any leakage onto the sub floor and everything below it, but your waterproofing does not protect the thinset. Yes, water eventually may get in there due to grout holes or caulking giving in, but youre speeding up the process of water getting in there by allowing that joint to be completely exposed to everything falling on top of it, instead of having it tucked in nicely to the wall tile, and I've seen it before, the tiles themselves start to pop off because that thinset is no longer bonded properly. As pans are sloped, there is no where near enough water doing it that method then the one shown on the video. Even leaving the bottom course out, doing your floor, then tying in the bottom course. I do not disagree with a lot of your videos, and like I stated before I've viewed them and never had a complaint, but with this, especially all the disasters I've had to come in and fix and studying on this for a long time and practicing it, it's hard for me to agree to it.
Thanks for the link, I will give it a look.
You are over thinking it. The thinset in any tile installation is always directly below the tile, it will get wet no matter what, by your logic tile in a pool should be falling off in short order. Let's agree to disagree.
Hi Sal, if you see this was the floor of the shower a pan? Thanks.
Mud base over liner, then tile
I thought floors must be set before walls?
There was a time where that was the case but not so much now. Hes got essentially 2 different types of waterproofing systems there with his Kerdi? and aquadefense?
That's basically a short bathtub. Even if water gets under the tile it's not going anywhere, it'll just evaporate
@@adampimentel1516 Fantastic! Thanks.
Bad layout you shoul install the mosaic tile before the wall battom edge so you eliminate any future water filtration that's not the right way to do a shower floor
Everything is waterproofed, besides do you really think that with the gallons upon gallons of water hitting the shower floor and walls the orientation of the grout line is going to make any difference, believe me it does not. That is why I waterproof everything. Most times I do it the way you suggest, but sometimes it is not possible for a variety of reasons.
I like to switch the playback speed to 2x, it's like I'm the boss watching.
حلووو
The drain is not centered.
You are correct.
the time orsen wells predicted almost but hey end times
It would be nice if you didn't talk to the floor.
Albert Cerrato But the floor likes it when i talk to it.
+Sal DiBlasi lolol - you never know where a good conversation can occur. don't limit urself Albert lol.
Sal you mentioned to me in another comment about a professional tile group that is closed and asked me to msg you privately if i was interested. well i am definitely interested but have no idea how to msg you privately. can you guide me here? i would really enjoy just watching and learning so much! thank you! heathwood.phd@gmail.com
Send me an email saldibs@elitetileco.com you have to be in the tile industry to be accepted
Tia Maggio
He didnt show how any where cut.
th-cam.com/video/xeTj9cgaSU8/w-d-xo.html
Hey Sal can you speak up some
Sure.
Terrible jab
Not a professional work
Sorry why no to do it the right way. 🤔
Please explain what the right way would be, better still make a video and show us.