When I was growing up we used an F12 to plow tobacco with and We always fully retarded the spark to crank it! Helped to avoided kick back. Never put your thumb over the crank and always crank it pulling up. That way the worst it will do is to pull it out of your hand. Cranking pushing down it can break your wrist, arm, thumb or any of the above., . Super sweet tractor. Those didn't have much sheet metal, but in silhouette they have such a proud stance to them! Good job of preserving it for generations to come. Thanks
I think ours was a 24. Dad installed an old flywheel on the coupler between clutch and trans, used Ford starter. Generator + lights. Built V belt hydraulics ordered from back east, this was around 57? I am 73 now. I used to have to clamp my thighs around the wheel and brace my elbows on my knees to "hang onto" it. Starting was a trick as carb needle always leaded. You turned on the fuel, let it fill and drip, then shut it off to prevent flooding. Set the manual impulse, walk around to left, set choke wire at radiator and crank it (if by hand). Stay on left side, release choke when fired, open gas valve, and adjust throttle/ spark from left side. If battery was up, we left gas on and just "hurried." There was also choke at "dashboard" as well as !!!!!! Impulse set cable we had rigged. So if you "were quick" you could open fuel, pull impulse, and quickly pull choke and run starter before it flooded. Sold it around 03 after Dad had died, we DROVE it onto the trailer.
Lots of good memories there! I developed a starting procedure for mine as well. I could usually have it running in just a couple of minutes (or less). Still, as we are getting older, I do prefer the push button electric starter! The tractors were built so well and were so simple that they will probably run forever if maintained properly.
Our regular was 1033. it had a hand brake for each side and an F20 hydrolic pump. we use it mainly for loading logs and pulpwood. in the spring, it was our manure loader.
Well done. Thumb should be on the outside of crank handle I was taught. Don't think the starting fluid helps much with that elapsed time but you know your iron best.
found and old rusty one on my property and its not missing much other than some magneto parts and carburetor parts, and the right brake cable broke, oh and it needs all new rims and tires.
When l was a young kid on the farm in the 1950s we had a F-20 regular and the regular had open steering gears and if you weren't careful when you hit a rut with the front wheels that steering wheel could spin in your hands and some people broke their arm when the steering would spin in your hands. You had to be on your toes driving the regular.
The tractor is great and sounds so nice. Please watch some videos on how to hand crank a tractor. The way your doing it can cause serious injuries if the engine were to back fire. Looking forward to more videos of your toys.
I'm curious about a couple things. 1 - when you advance the spark on startup - does that create any risk of kickback on the crank? 2 - did the Farmall Regular not have pedal brakes? I've not been able to tell for sure but seems like it didn't but the next model (the models did have the standard dual brakes like modern tractors).
Any time you advance the spark from the full retarded position you increase the chance of kickback. However, the chances are negligible when the timing is set correctly. I own 7 vehicles with crank starts and I have never experienced a backfire. Never advance it too far and never introduce primer/gas/ether while doing so. Each machine is different. But, I always guard against it just to be safe. Even if you see me cranking with both hands, my grip is loose, my thumbs are free, and I don’t allow my body to get within the rotation of the crank handle. The Regulars do not have pedal breaks, just the hand brake. They are heavy machines and stop pretty quickly on their own when you engage the clutch.
The best type of engine oil and antifreeze is often debated. So, rather than state what I think is "best", I will simply tell you what kind I use in both of my antique tractors: 30wt non-detergent engine oil. Conventional IAT green antifreeze (or a modern equivalent).
Nice,cool old machine👍 Maranatha, Greetings from Tampa Florida 😎
When I was growing up we used an F12 to plow tobacco with and We always fully retarded the spark to crank it! Helped to avoided kick back. Never put your thumb over the crank and always crank it pulling up. That way the worst it will do is to pull it out of your hand. Cranking pushing down it can break your wrist, arm, thumb or any of the above., . Super sweet tractor. Those didn't have much sheet metal, but in silhouette they have such a proud stance to them! Good job of preserving it for generations to come. Thanks
I think ours was a 24. Dad installed an old flywheel on the coupler between clutch and trans, used Ford starter. Generator + lights. Built V belt hydraulics ordered from back east, this was around 57? I am 73 now. I used to have to clamp my thighs around the wheel and brace my elbows on my knees to "hang onto" it. Starting was a trick as carb needle always leaded. You turned on the fuel, let it fill and drip, then shut it off to prevent flooding. Set the manual impulse, walk around to left, set choke wire at radiator and crank it (if by hand). Stay on left side, release choke when fired, open gas valve, and adjust throttle/ spark from left side. If battery was up, we left gas on and just "hurried." There was also choke at "dashboard" as well as !!!!!! Impulse set cable we had rigged. So if you "were quick" you could open fuel, pull impulse, and quickly pull choke and run starter before it flooded. Sold it around 03 after Dad had died, we DROVE it onto the trailer.
Lots of good memories there! I developed a starting procedure for mine as well. I could usually have it running in just a couple of minutes (or less). Still, as we are getting older, I do prefer the push button electric starter! The tractors were built so well and were so simple that they will probably run forever if maintained properly.
Thanks for posting your progress and for the details of the maintenance. I need to get me a F-12 or a F-14 one of these days.
Our regular was 1033. it had a hand brake for each side and an F20 hydrolic pump. we use it mainly for loading logs and pulpwood. in the spring, it was our manure loader.
Not only are they quite useful tractors I think they look good too! Simple but classy
Well done. Thumb should be on the outside of crank handle I was taught. Don't think the starting fluid helps much with that elapsed time but you know your iron best.
That s quite the starting procedure, almost like starting an airplane.
Thanks you mistri vai
Excellent instructional video. Thank you
You are welcome!
found and old rusty one on my property and its not missing much other than some magneto parts and carburetor parts, and the right brake cable broke, oh and it needs all new rims and tires.
When l was a young kid on the farm in the 1950s we had a F-20 regular and the regular had open steering gears and if you weren't careful when you hit a rut with the front wheels that steering wheel could spin in your hands and some people broke their arm when the steering would spin in your hands. You had to be on your toes driving the regular.
I can see that happening. The steering is incredibly light for such a heavy tractor. It wouldn't take much to whip the wheel around.
The tractor is great and sounds so nice.
Please watch some videos on how to hand crank a tractor.
The way your doing it can cause serious injuries if the engine
were to back fire.
Looking forward to more videos of your toys.
Big plugs
I have an 39 f20 .can you tell me what size radiator drain plug is. Thanks
I'm sorry I do not know. I would measure it for you but I sold this old girl a while back.
Thank you, and I do enjoy your videos
I'm curious about a couple things. 1 - when you advance the spark on startup - does that create any risk of kickback on the crank? 2 - did the Farmall Regular not have pedal brakes? I've not been able to tell for sure but seems like it didn't but the next model (the models did have the standard dual brakes like modern tractors).
Any time you advance the spark from the full retarded position you increase the chance of kickback. However, the chances are negligible when the timing is set correctly. I own 7 vehicles with crank starts and I have never experienced a backfire. Never advance it too far and never introduce primer/gas/ether while doing so. Each machine is different. But, I always guard against it just to be safe. Even if you see me cranking with both hands, my grip is loose, my thumbs are free, and I don’t allow my body to get within the rotation of the crank handle.
The Regulars do not have pedal breaks, just the hand brake. They are heavy machines and stop pretty quickly on their own when you engage the clutch.
What type of oil is best? What type antifreeze thanks
The best type of engine oil and antifreeze is often debated. So, rather than state what I think is "best", I will simply tell you what kind I use in both of my antique tractors:
30wt non-detergent engine oil.
Conventional IAT green antifreeze (or a modern equivalent).
reverse the oil guage bracket. You wont have to pull the bolts everytime you need to pull the plug.