Dude you're good at this. You got great carpet removal technique. Love the way you tie up the carpet strips and how you held onto a piece of padding to wrap up all those tack strips. Very nice.
I've watched dozens of these videos and this is the best as far as dealing with those pesky corners and how to cut the end pieces when you get close to the wall. Super install!
Thank you for this video. I have installed this flooring a few times and I still learned so much from you. My knees hurt just watching you work without knee pads though. I am going to be 72 soon and I wish I had used knee pads more as a young man. Not preaching just suggesting. Thanks again, great informative videos.
Lol. Oh I use them. Just not as often as I should . You're right. Only get one set of knees. It will catch up to me when I'm older. Thanks for the comment.
most helpful video I have seen. The pattern layout was my main concern and you didn't wait until an hour into video like some of these videos. I appreciate that. But I did watch the entire video. I will be coming back to this one I begin my project!
You and your wife are a great team, my husband and I would be so frustrated and probably get divorced on this project.. it looks beautiful and thanks for the tips.
Ha ha. Don't think we don't have our moments. Wish I could get some of those moments on video. But she's a good teammate. Thanks for the positivity and the comment
Hey, I appreciated your video. I've installed laminate flooring a few other times, but a refresher on the ins and outs of this particular flooring made installation much easier and smoother. Just wanted to let you know it was appreciated. I'm going to follow.
That last row is a bear, thanks so much for this video it helped a lot. Just installed my first Pergo Outlast floor. Just need to apply the seal over the foam and add the base boards back.
@Michelle Freligh That is AWESOME! Glad to hear the video helped with your project. I would love to see pics of the floor you installed! If you don't mind sending some pics, please email them to youfloor.net@gmail.com Look forward to seeing them!
Thanks man for your work. The first one who had an answer to my struggles of fitting a laminate board between two previously laid ones. Your carpet rolling is classy. I also like the that fact you’re a team with your Mrs, kudos to both of you. I respect that.
I appreciate that. People say all the time... I don't know how you do it, but honestly, I don't know how I would do it without her. Thanks for the comment
My man. We think the same. Hey I had an idea for a pull bar. Then after browsing the internet I found this thing called laminate hammer. OH NO ITS MY IDEA.!!!! Check it out on Home depot website. Thanks for the comment
THANK YOU for this video. My husband and I were just about to pack up all of the boxes of flooring and return them. We were stuck on the 2nd board in the 2nd row. It did take us about an hour to get to the 3rd board of the 2nd row. But, we did it!
Great videos…we are replacing old carpet, I was thinking about leaving the carpet padding to bring the Outlast even with my bathroom floor I just did, do you see any issues with that? Thanks for your help!@@YOUFLOOR
You will for sure have issues. The padding is not strong enough to support any flooring. It will make every step squishy and eventually the seams will start breaking over some time. If you want to bring up the floor you'll need to cap it with luan or 1/2 inch plywood. Or what ever will match your floors to bring it up. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Everything you talk about in this video is dead on. Some i learn the hard way. Haha this video was very helpful. I used you tips and did my entire second floor. One of the best on youtube!! Thank you 🙏🏼
@george koopman if you want to take some before and after pics and email them to me that would be great! If I can get enough pics from viewers I can put a video together with all of y’all’s projects! Let me know if you have any questions while doing the project. YouFloor.net@gmail.com
If you have an open room like this and a helper it is so much faster and easier to connect the whole row and the entire row into the already completed row.
I totally agree 👍. Maybe because all put together, it makes on big heavy plank and gravity assist. That is just my guess. But it is much easier. Thanks for the comment
The scribing method for last row is great idea. question 1: You dont show it, but what are using to rip those long stretches. Table saw? Circular saw? jigsaw with a fence/guide? question 2: outlast+ has the padding attached. I've been reading more about the pergo floormate to help give the floor a more natural sound. Have you used it much, does putting that down first introduce any any technique changes to putting the outlast+ down after? fwiw I'm installing initially in a bathroom (thus I need the silicone filled gaps, and I need to fit the corner shower, and around the toilet flange. later I have more simple square rooms thanks
Lol. It's funny how people's comments are completely opposite sometimes. One guy was at his wit's end with this stuff other catch on immediately 😂 Anyway thanks for the comment. See ya on the next one
I’ve installed many vinyl floors. From cheap internet stores ($2.10 SF) to nice higher end floor (Mohawk $5-$6 SF). By far the most difficult to install was the LifeProof.
Really? I don't really have a problem with the viynl planks. But if you go into the lifeproof bamboo thinking it installs anything like normal lvp you are in for a self taught clinic. I bout lost my mind trying to connect 2 pieces together and under the door jamb too.. and it is so hard to cut both in difficulty and in hardness of the wood. Thanks for the comment. Peace
back with more specific question, hoping for advice also About to install some pergo outlast+ in a bathroom. I watched numerous vidoes about install around toilet flange. Seems like you only need standard expansion gap around the flange. Do you agree? pergo outlast says to use 100% silicone in the areas of the expansion gaps in rooms with water. Do you have Ideas about if silicon would also should go next to the plank in the gap around the flange?
Absolutely want to seal around the flange. But more importantly is to make sure the flange is sitting above the finished floor. Not level with floor. If you are going around a flange instead of under it. Then you may need to add a short flange extention. I have had toilets leak into the subfloor when the flange is too low. If there is any play in the flange and you can slide the flooring under it,I would suggest that. Your probably worried about expansion. Believe me I have been doing it this way for years and have never had any issues. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask any other questions. Have a great day
No sir. I have installed at least 50 floors with the same blade. Should come with a honing stone. If not you can order one but I use it to sharpen the blade about every 3 or 4 installs. Hope that helps. Good question
You can measure out the room first thing to make sure the end piece is not tiny and super hard to install. I try to make first row near equal to the end piece by cutting the first board in a certain width.
I am doing my whole 2nd floor starting in my master bedroom. Would you recommend starting in a closet and working my way out or find the middle of the room and start there?
If it were me, I would find the straightest wall to start on. If you are installing Pergo Outlast, it is quite easy to install backwards. Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work through your project. Tks for the question.
I’m not sure but it’s not that hard. Just make sure to cut the caulk line so you don’t mess up your paint on the wall. And use your prybar to pry forward. Not backwards. Go to 8 minutes in this video and I explain as I tear off base tile. Also I put regular baseboard on if you wanna skip to the end to check it out. Thanks for the question th-cam.com/video/71KkJWeovQI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cKcst6W5BTQuo9ic
Great video no one ever mention the sealing and foam. My baseboards or what ever the quarter round nails too go all the way to the subfloor. Should I remove the baseboards and put them on top the laminate or does it matter really?
The price a depends on the factors of the job. Such as am I pulling and hauling off the old flooring( different floors have different prices. Cost more to tear out tile as opposed to carpet or laminate. Then are we removing base boards and reinstalling or just running 1/4 round. Generally if all those are part of the job we offer an all inclusive price of 3.00 a sq ft up to 3.75 for tile tear out and maybe more if subfloor repair is required. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Hey man how would you connect a room that was carpeted with an existing laminate floor with matching laminate, without a transition? The connection point is at an angle as well.
The only way to really doe it right is to put the flooring back until you can stair step It back where it start going g through the door. I have a video on matching up flooring going into another room but it involves a transition. So pulling back is the only way. If you have laminate like pergo , sometimes you can weeve the new boards in. But if it's a drop and lock , that's almost impossible. It really doesn't take long to pull the 1/4 round and a few rows to get the new stuff in. Hope that helps
I am trying to figure out what tool to use to cut the tiles. I have a Pergo 10mm waterproof laminate. The material is almost like a hard clay, I can't figure it out. I see in this video you used, at least partially, a cutter and not a saw. What saw should I use?
Well if you don't have a cutter I would just use a miter saw or a speed square and a circular saw. You can also use a jig saw. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Hi. Thank you for all the videos. They are super helpful! I do have two questions. Is there a difference between GE white and clear 100% silicone? Also, leaving the expansion gap along a shower or tub, is there away to attach a quarter round without nailing it? Obviously, I cannot nail it to the tub or laminate. Do you think using the same silicone would hold it in place? Thanks
The silicone will hold it, ⁸but you will need something to hold it while it dries. I usually squirt I all the way across with small little gaps I use hot glue on the gaps. This will hold the 1/4 round while the silicone dries. I also use white silicone on top crack. This will add more holding power and make it Waterproof. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Thanks for this helpful video! My question is about switching plank direction in a doorway. We’ll be installing Pergo Elements Preferred in a long dining room, through a regular width doorway and then on into a long kitchen that sits perpendicular to the dining room. We want to run the planks parallel to the length of the rooms. What would you advise as the best way to transition the planks at that one doorway?
Well if the subfloor is same height and you're using same flooring in both rooms, then you should be able to use a t mold to join the rooms together. Even if you tried to turn the laminate and lock an end to a long run. The planks would have to be random lengths in order to continue flooring in that room. So yeah I would use a t mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Excellent video. I bought some used Pergo & am going in the morning (15Oct22) to remove it. Praying that it comes up easy. It’s not glued or nailed. Any tips for pulling it up w/o damage? Thanks!!
Well if there is 1/4 round, start by pulling that. Generally there is a 1/4 inch gap under that and that will help with pulling it out on the sides. If there is only baseboard on top of the flooring, you may have to pull the baseboard. If it's in some ones house and they don't want you to remove the baseboard then you can cut down the side with a oscillating tool or a Sawzall. A circular saw set at the depth of the laminate would be faster but really dusty. Once you figure out a what side the floor started go to the finish wall and pull the 1st row. Keep in mind the 1st board or even the last row could be damaged but once it out its easy peasy. Have some one help you pull the whole row out of the locking system by tipping it up and pulling it out. Then do the same end to end tip it up at around a 30° angle and it should slip right out as you pull. This will help you keep the locking system in tack. If you do damage a small piece of the locking system but most of it is there just put a drop of wood glue In. That spot during the new installation. I know that was long but I hope it makes sense. Great question. And an excellent idea for a video.
Wow! Thanks for the help! The oscillating saw will be a great tool to have on standby. I wish I could take my entire tool arsenal w/ me. I’m driving from Raleigh to (near) Pinehurst. Thanks again brother
we're replacing carpet with pergo in a closet. the oak trim is low enough the pergo won't slide under the trim, i assume i should pull the trim up and reinstall it about 1/8 or so higher so the pergo can slip / expand under the oak trim?
You have 2 choices. You can either pull the baseboard and install your floor, then put it back. And it doesn't need to have a gap under the trim. It will still expand and contract with the trim straight on the floor. 2nd choice is to leave the baseboard. Then, when you install flooring, you can leave a small gap around the perimeter for expansion. Then you can install 1/4 round like I did in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I plan to install this in a lake cottage bedroom. The bedroom is on a slab and the house is not heated in the winter nor a/c in the summer. It’s in MI so weather can be both extremes. Any tips for a good install?
Just make sure you leave good expansion gaps. It's pretty standard laminate, but I will say this... This year was a pretty rough winter. Sometimes the extreme temperature change can cause laminate to separate it its not free to expand. We had to go back to two jobs this winter to close up gaps and we actually left expansion gaps. I'm telling you this because both jobs were pergo outlast. We glued them after closing sing them up. But it could happen again if the weather gets extreme change in temperature. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
When starting the job if you measure the total floor you can split the first and last piece so that you don’t have a slender strip to squeeze in at the end.
@pondereef you can pull the baseboard and then install your floor. Once floor is installed you can silicone under the baseboard before you reinstall it. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Do you ever have issues with chipping edges when cutting with a circular or jig saw using standard wood blades? Looks like Diablo makes a “Pergo blade” but is it really necessary?
Not so much a circular saw as the jig saw. But yeah I know what you're talking about. Usually any end I'm cutting n g gets covered. Now if I have a new blade. My table saw does a lot of work and usually no chipping out as it cut from the bottom. Hope that helps. I'll have to check out that blade. Thanks for the comment
Great video - question that I have not seen asked here. How do you choose which direction to put the flooring down? I have read parallel with the longest wall, parallel to the windows with the most light, or running the length from the main entry way?
We usually let the customer pick, but we do give them all of the points you mentioned. Find the biggest light source and run across joist, etc. But I'd I'm choosing, I make it easy on me. If there is a hallway involved, I go the direction of long ways through the hall. Sideways tend to look plankish like a board walk. If no hallway, I usually start against the longest wall to keep down on the getting up and cutting ends so often. Hop that helps. Thanks for the question
If you buy your pergo at home depot the underlayment is attached to the bottom. It is not at Lowes. Pergo sells an uderlayment called pergo gold if you want extra. But never cover wood subfloor with any kind of plastic. It will trap moisture and create mold and rot over time. Only on concrete should you use a plastic moisture barrier. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I am wanting to install this in my entire house, to include the kitchen. Should this be installed under the stove and/or dishwasher? If so, anything different that i need to be aware of. Thank you in advance.
you should definitely install under the stove and refrigerator. Normally with the dishwasher we install flooring just under the feet. It all gets installed the same. When u out the bottom cover back on the dishwasher it should look finished! Let me know if you have any other questions.
If would run a bead of silicone along the floor under the dishwasher to keep any spills from going under the dishwasher and then under the floor. That should all be behind the bottom cover as well.
Thanks a lot! We followed this video to install, but we found a problem with the quarter round, after it is installed, when we put back our furnitures, all have a gap to the wall because the quarter round is stopping them to push against the wall. Isn't it a problem? We are wondering for the places we need to put cabinet or bed, shall we remove the quarter round? But thanks a lot for your video!
Typically things like free standing furniture (beds, dressers, end tables, ect. ) it's okay to have them bumped off the wall a little. But tings like cabinets, vanities, built in book shelves (pretty much if it's attached to the wall) Those things need to have the baseboard stop and die into the cabinet and then I would continue the 1/4 around the cabinet. I personally wouldn't remove any 1/4 round behind the bed or end tables. That's pretty standard. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks a lot for your reply! That really helps! So that means those cabinets will need to fix the position and can't move. We are considering to take out the original baseline and the install it back on top of the laminate so that to provide more flexibility. Would you think there's any problem with such approach? Thanks a lot for your instruction! Really appreciate!
That is fine as long as you haven't installed the floor yet. If you install floor against baseboard and then installed 1/4round , then the floor won't reach over to the wall. It's already cut. So there would be no floor against the wall to put your base on top. Hope that makes sense. Good luck with your project
@@YOUFLOOR We have just installed one small room and found this problem so may change our strategy in the remaining rooms. Thanks a lot for your reply! It's extremely helpful!
Yes if you haven't installed any other rooms. I would go ahead and take a razor knife and cut the caulk line on your baseboard. Be careful pulling it off. Break the nails on the back or use some bull nose nippers or plyers to pull the nails through. Clean up caulk and then install your flooring up to the drywall. Leave a small gap. Now you can set your old base right back in it old place on tip off flooring. And there's no cutting 1/4 round. Or baseboard for that matter. You already have all the old pieces. Good luck. Hope it works out.
Could you help clarify whether it's necessary to leave the expansion space between the laminate and the baseboard? In the instruction Pergo mentioned about 3/8" minimum expansion space to the wall..but seems like you didn't measure that space? (Around minute 13) thank you..
@Lynn Tiasa you do need to leave room for expansion. On this particular job it looks like the baseboard is a little high so if I did get close to baseboard, when the floor expands it would go under the baseboard. Also, when using a piece of flooring to scribe the last row, the tongue of the flooring makes the expansion gap bigger than it should be, sometimes the gap can be too big. Hope that helps!
Thanks for a great tutorial. I’m looking to run the same pergo upstairs in my house. It’s a hallway with 4 bedrooms. Do you recommend breaking it up or doing it all as one big floor? About 800 sqft total.
If it were me , I would do it all as one big floor. Just be sure to leave a sufficient expansion gap around the door jambs and you should be good to go. Also make sure the temperature stays pretty close between rooms. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Any kind of laminate will require a plastic vapor barrier when installing on concrete. It is not necessary with lvp. And you would not want to use a plastic vapor barrier on wood subfloor as that can trap moisture and cause mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
So, if you pull off the baseboards (like I've done before), I'm assuming that you can still used the foam roll and sealant as shown, and the warranty will be preserved the same as using the method shown with quarter-rounds in this video?
It is water resistant….the underneath part of the board will soak up water! Somehow the seams make a water tight lock and water will not seep through like regular laminate! Pergo outlast is a great product…one of my favorite products to install!
GREAT VIDEO! QUESTION: ALthough it would cause more work, couldn't you remove the wooden base trim from the last edge in the room, lay the last piece, and re-install the base trim?
I'm trying to install Pergo Outlast+ 7.48 in. W Somerton Auburn Hickory Waterproof Laminate Wood Flooring (19.63 sq. ft./case) and it will not snap together like you show it. I've called customer support twice and what they said to do doesn't help. Either something is wrong with the flooring I bought or Pergo has changed the design. A after 6 hours, the only row that goes together is the first. Get 2 or 3 pieces of 2nd row started and they start coming apart along the ling edge. They will not lock together and stay. So frustrating.
Do you have an email. Shoot me an email and I will help talk you through this. ZCONSTRUCTIONLLC@ GMAIL.COM. Pergo can be so stubborn.I know exactly what you mean about coming apart during the second row. On the seconcon row. But once you get the hang of it, you'll love it. It's actually pretty simple. Hang in there. We can do this brother
Best hack i have for you is to remove the base molding [gently] run the edge at 1/4" from the wall, then once its in// rest the base molding on top of the flooring, ease back into the wall and re-nail it. it is a bit more work before and after but the finished product is great and it minimizes the edge game struggle in exchange for the basemolding work// up to you if its worth it or not- have a nice day
In the instructions that come with this product you’re supposed to cut off the wider tongue and place that side against your wall. It looks like you’re doing the reverse, placing the side with the short tongue against the wall. And it looks like you’re using short, half size, then long one and then a piece that’s 1/4 size. Right?
Sounds like you got it figured out. As far as cutting thrives off. My directions say to cut the tongue, not the groove. And I never have done that, especially if doing a whole house. It really doesn't affect anything. I would only do that if I'm doing one room, and I want the same size starter piece as my finished piece. In other words, the room is split in half equal to both walls. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question
The only time I cut the tongee off is if I'm going into a hallway and I want to center the planks. I do check to see if I'm going to end with a small piece on the opposite side by measuring first. Then, I may cut more than just the tongue to make the piece the opposite wall bigger. But in a 200 to 400 sqft room. Nah, I go with a full board. And yes, I put tongue against the wall. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Great video! We just bought pergo outlast and a bunch of our boards have a white paint fingerprint on them and some have bubbles in the flooring. Have you ever seen this? I'm worried that the white paint ones were marked as being imperfect but we're accidentally mixed in with our boxes. We bought a pallet. Thanks so much for any insight!
I have seen bubbles in my floor before. And I may have even seen white stuff. Try some acetone on the white prints and maybe it will come off. But as for the bubbles I usually just cut around them and use the sides that don't have bubbles for starters and finishers. Hope that helps thanks for the question
What are you using to cut the last row's pieces lengthwise? We don't have a table saw, just a jigsaw, and we're wondering if there's a good way to make a long square cut with those... We tried a utility knife too and got nowhere... Is there a better way to cut them?
Sure. When I first started installing floors I was a Framer with mad circular saw skills. I couldn't afford a table saw. So I got pretty good at cutting the laminate with a circular saw. Even today On small jobs when I pulled the carpet out I take it peace and throw it outside on the ground and then I just throw the laminate on top of that and set the depth on my saw so it doesn't go too deep and then I just cut on the ground. The saw goes through no problem and the carpet underneath get lightly scored. It make trips super fast. Make sure To wear safety glasses cause that laminate can fly in your eyes and it is not a good time. Also you can do cuts around corners that have long rips and angles just use a jigsaw to finish off small parts I hope that helps thanks for the question
Is this normal or is mine defective? I was really hoping to do this on my own. I bought the same manual cutter you linked but what I noticed is I can’t operate it myself. I have to wait for my son to come home and cut it for me. The planks are only 7ml thick.
First of all, I'm not a professional carpenter or floor installer. However, I've just finished installing around 800 feet of Pergo (have about 100 more to go plus two closets). For the last row, I've clicked the narrow board in and used a pull bar and tapping block just as I did on the rest of the floor. When you allow for expansion--and on new construction without baseboards---the pull bar worked well. A bought a tapping block. I found that using a piece of flooring, the flooring "tapping block" smashed quickly and left a mess. I did not see you measure the room and divide the width of the room by the width of the board. I was hoping to see that. I'm starting a new room and wanted to do it correctly, instead the way I did the rest---fitting in a narrow board along the last wall. I'm very poor at math. My plan is to just cut the boards down the center.
Yeah. I tell you what. A guy I watch does great videos and he does a great job of explaining that divided the room thing. He does it on his computer and it comes out perfect. I usually use a calculator when I'm in a square room and in rooms with multiple adjacent walls or multiple rooms I go with it. But his program allows him to move the floor around for perfect trips on every wall. Check him out. His channel is TH-cam/build this fix that. Thanks again. Hope that helps
The carpet removal technique was awesome! Thanks for the informative video! Just wondering, what factors helped you decide to not use the Pergo underpayment and/or does this style already come with an attached underlayment? How have the floors held up since install, have you noticed any pieces coming unlocked or “spongy soft” when you walk in certain areas? Sorry for all the questions, we recently had some LVP (with underlayment attached) put down improperly in our home 3 weeks ago, some boards are already starting to unlock in the middle of the room and along some of the edges near the closets. We’re in the process of working to replace them now and my husband is nervous about going with LVP again 😟
Welll I am an installer for Home Depot as well as my own jobs. They provide me a lot of work so I am able to install many brands, styles, Materials, thickness, ect. So I can't tell you about this particular job as it's a customers. But I have been installing pergo outlast for about 5 years and I have NEVER had a call back do to product defects. And I have been back to repeat customers and if taken care of it looked just as good as the day installed, years later. Btw the pad is attache to the bottom on most pergo laminateflooring. You will need to use a moisture barrier if you are going on top of concrete. As far as lvp. If you have the kind that just presses down it may not be locked in all the way. Or there is a considerable dip that is allowing one side to go down when stepped on. Or the tab that locks them in has broke. If it's not locked in. You can try taking a rubber mallet and striking the plank that lays on top about 3 inches from the end at angle coming down to try to move it into the proper locking spot sometimes we think they are tight together and it's that little bump that locks it in. FyI they do make lvp that's waterproof and locks in like laminate so you don't have to worry about it coming loose. Let me know if your ever interested. Sorry for the long answer. Hope that helped
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you for the details and suggestions for the rubber mallet! That was very helpful. I'm glad a lot of customers have loved their Pergo LVP flooring, I've heard good things about it.
Do you recall the color of this flooring? It’s the perfect gray!!! This video helped a lot, I was afraid to buy pergo because the reviews said it was a nightmare to put together. It looks similar to the traffic master I did years back with a couple tweaks. Also, I plan to remove my baseboards for install, are the spacers & foam still needed since it won’t be up against the baseboard?
Okay lots of great questions. 1st I believe the color is called vintage pewter. I've included a link. Also on that page s roll down and take a look at the home decorators collection. Its lighter in color but very diy friendly. Now with the perimeter seal you dont even neccesarily need the foam rope for 1/4 installation if you are meticulous about your cuts. See typically floating floors will need a quarter of an inch for expansion all the way around. You're goal is to seal off any chance of liquid getting to the underside of your flooring. If your cut are all almost perfectto the wall you should be able to silicone the edge of the floor and a small bead behind the base board. And even with the baseboard method only (no 1/4 round) the liquid would have to be 4 inches deep to climb over the baseboard. Some time the end boards can be cut a little shorter that others. This doesn't leave much room for the silicone. So instead of filling the crack up. The foam will take up the space and you will only use what you need. Hope I answered your question. In summary, no you dont NEED the rope foam but I would grab a package just for those bigger gaps. Place silicone on edge creating a barrier. Set your baseboard in. And clean up with 100% acetone or denatured alcohol. Good luck. Thanks for the questionwww.homedepot.com/p/Pergo-Outlast-7-48-in-W-Vintage-Pewter-Oak-Waterproof-Laminate-Wood-Flooring-19-63-sq-ft-case-LF000848/206860377?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D23-Multi-PERGO-NA-Feed-SMART-2081362-WF-MK461823323_9016229526_FY21_2328_PERGO_OUTLAST&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D23-Multi-PERGO-NA-Feed-SMART-2081362-WF-MK461823323_9016229526_FY21_2328_PERGO_OUTLAST-71700000085764827-58700007295799681-92700065505447088&gclid=Cj0KCQiAweaNBhDEARIsAJ5hwbeDHeqoi8MqOzcVRgicvCOPPcl4tvHCkIHONkc_qA5ALXG33aS9HvEaAtL8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
This video has helped me so much. My back is in agony but turned out well 😅 Did to remove the tongue on the edge pieces like it says in the pergo instructions? Or doesn't that matter?
If I am starting with a full plank I do not cut the tongue off. If anyone could tell me the point in doing this, maybe I would consider it but in my opinion it’s just a time waister. If I need to center the planks to the room I may have to cut some of the plank so it will be the correct size, but that has nothing to do with the tongue. Thanks for the question!
@@YOUFLOOR Yeah I found it weird too like even with expansion it's not gonna effect it. I did it anyway so nice to know was a waste of time for when I do the bigger room. Your videos are amazing mate.
Busted! Yeah not my favorite situation. It doesn't affect it structurally, but it is not exactly Esthetically pleasing to the eye. We never start with a plank smaller than 6 inches. And when we get to the end and have a small piece. It's then that we create a dead zone. I made a video about it, but it didn't get a lot of love. So if you want to avoid this issue altogether, You must create the dead zone 1st. There's a faster way to get there, but I wanted to simplify the explanation with a visual. If interested I left a link for that video. Great question. Thanks for the veiw.th-cam.com/video/rkjpa7In4nc/w-d-xo.html
I noticed you didn’t use an underlayment. The pre installed backing pad is good enough for sound dampening? Would you recommend a moisture barrier if installing on a concrete slab or does the backing act as one as well?
Oh . For sure you need a moisure barrier if installing on concrete. On wood, it is not needed and also can possibly trap moisturez between the subfloor and plastic, which can cause mold. But that is not the case on concrete. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
All floating floors can be lay parallel or perpendicular . When you nailing or attaching a floor to the subfloor it it better to go perpendicular so that any dips can be slightly hidden from spanning joist to joist. Going parallel will make the wood follow the curves and be real noticable on humps and dips. Because the floor is floating it basically become one big sheet to cover the floor so it wont show dips. However if they are to bad will will have a lot of bounce. Best to level it out first. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
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Dude you're good at this. You got great carpet removal technique. Love the way you tie up the carpet strips and how you held onto a piece of padding to wrap up all those tack strips. Very nice.
I've watched dozens of these videos and this is the best as far as dealing with those pesky corners and how to cut the end pieces when you get close to the wall. Super install!
Thank you. And thanks for the comment
Great video--clear and innovative!
Thank so much 👍👊
Thank you for this video. I have installed this flooring a few times and I still learned so much from you. My knees hurt just watching you work without knee pads though. I am going to be 72 soon and I wish I had used knee pads more as a young man. Not preaching just suggesting. Thanks again, great informative videos.
Lol. Oh I use them. Just not as often as I should . You're right. Only get one set of knees. It will catch up to me when I'm older. Thanks for the comment.
most helpful video I have seen. The pattern layout was my main concern and you didn't wait until an hour into video like some of these videos. I appreciate that. But I did watch the entire video. I will be coming back to this one I begin my project!
Awesome. Good to hear. Hope your project is a smash hit. Good luck. See ya on the next one
You and your wife are a great team, my husband and I would be so frustrated and probably get divorced on this project.. it looks beautiful and thanks for the tips.
Ha ha. Don't think we don't have our moments. Wish I could get some of those moments on video. But she's a good teammate. Thanks for the positivity and the comment
This made me LOL! Ditto for me and my wife. (We tried, and we MAY be getting divorced over it!)
Hey, I appreciated your video. I've installed laminate flooring a few other times, but a refresher on the ins and outs of this particular flooring made installation much easier and smoother. Just wanted to let you know it was appreciated. I'm going to follow.
Glad I can be any help at all. I appreciate the kind words. Good luck on all your future projects 👍🏼💪🏼
That last row is a bear, thanks so much for this video it helped a lot. Just installed my first Pergo Outlast floor. Just need to apply the seal over the foam and add the base boards back.
Right on brother. Glad to hear it worked out. You're almost there. Good luck. You got this! THANKS FOR THE COMMENT
Thanks to this video I just laid my very own floor for the first time and it’s beautiful! Thank you!
@Michelle Freligh That is AWESOME! Glad to hear the video helped with your project. I would love to see pics of the floor you installed! If you don't mind sending some pics, please email them to youfloor.net@gmail.com
Look forward to seeing them!
It actually says it’s waterproof not water resistant. Best tutorial I’ve ever seen on TH-cam. Hopefully my builder does as good as you did
Thank you. Hard to fi d anything water proof. Good eye
Great tips and tricks. This video saved our project and my sanity. Can not thank you enough!!
Glad we could help. I knew you could do it. Thanks for the comment
Thanks man for your work. The first one who had an answer to my struggles of fitting a laminate board between two previously laid ones. Your carpet rolling is classy. I also like the that fact you’re a team with your Mrs, kudos to both of you. I respect that.
Right on. I appreciate that. Thanks for the veiw and taking time for a comment. See ya on the next one
Very good for remove carpet and wrap it. Very good ideas.
Thank you
You’ve some of the most helpful, insightful, and detail oriented video’s yet, on multiple levels...thank you!
Thank you so much.
You and you wife make a great team and did a great job!
I appreciate that. People say all the time... I don't know how you do it, but honestly, I don't know how I would do it without her. Thanks for the comment
That scrap piece tip is one of my favorites.
Pull bars have their place depending what product you're using.
My man. We think the same. Hey I had an idea for a pull bar. Then after browsing the internet I found this thing called laminate hammer. OH NO ITS MY IDEA.!!!! Check it out on Home depot website. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR the Lam-Hammer?
I designed that. jk lol
THANK YOU for this video. My husband and I were just about to pack up all of the boxes of flooring and return them. We were stuck on the 2nd board in the 2nd row. It did take us about an hour to get to the 3rd board of the 2nd row. But, we did it!
Awesome! Looks like you're on your way. Thanks for the comment
Great videos…we are replacing old carpet, I was thinking about leaving the carpet padding to bring the Outlast even with my bathroom floor I just did, do you see any issues with that?
Thanks for your help!@@YOUFLOOR
You will for sure have issues. The padding is not strong enough to support any flooring. It will make every step squishy and eventually the seams will start breaking over some time. If you want to bring up the floor you'll need to cap it with luan or 1/2 inch plywood. Or what ever will match your floors to bring it up. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
You are the man…have a blessed weekend
Peace to you and your wife. Thanks for your posts. Very informative 👏
Thank you
Excellent demo. You are very detailed and thorough. Great tips
I am just about to take this project on myself, I found your video extremely helpful. Thank you!
Glad to hear. Good luck on your project
Until you try to pop in the second board at 45 degrees the first one pops out
nice.. and quarter rounds are an installer's best friend.
You know it brotha. Thanks for the comment
I now know how I'm going to install my laminate tomorrow, thx!
Right on
Everything you talk about in this video is dead on. Some i learn the hard way. Haha this video was very helpful. I used you tips and did my entire second floor. One of the best on youtube!! Thank you 🙏🏼
Thank you
thanks for the tips! i was on the fence whether i was going to attempt this or not, you made it look real easy so im going for it!
Awesome!! You got this. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment
@george koopman if you want to take some before and after pics and email them to me that would be great! If I can get enough pics from viewers I can put a video together with all of y’all’s projects! Let me know if you have any questions while doing the project.
YouFloor.net@gmail.com
Did you ever try installing this? Curious how it turned out!
@@kelliehunt58 long story short, no, i let the guys doing the rest of the remodel do it. they knocked it out really fast
Love this video I always come back to it!!!!
That's awesome. Glad to hear this. Thank you so much
If you have an open room like this and a helper it is so much faster and easier to connect the whole row and the entire row into the already completed row.
I totally agree 👍. Maybe because all put together, it makes on big heavy plank and gravity assist. That is just my guess. But it is much easier. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR
No, thank you for the video. You've made alot of people's lives easier. You have great energy! Take care
Best video for newbies! Thanks
You got it. Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much for sharing this video. It's detailed and very helpful.
You got it Mary. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR I’m trying my best to install the floor now, but it keeps rising up. What’s the best way to make it lay flat
The scribing method for last row is great idea.
question 1: You dont show it, but what are using to rip those long stretches. Table saw? Circular saw? jigsaw with a fence/guide?
question 2: outlast+ has the padding attached. I've been reading more about the pergo floormate to help give the floor a more natural sound. Have you used it much, does putting that down first introduce any any technique changes to putting the outlast+ down after?
fwiw I'm installing initially in a bathroom (thus I need the silicone filled gaps, and I need to fit the corner shower, and around the toilet flange. later I have more simple square rooms
thanks
thank you man,,,,,,,you saved me alott of frustration
Good instructions on the details on what to do, thanks!
Lol. It's funny how people's comments are completely opposite sometimes. One guy was at his wit's end with this stuff other catch on immediately 😂 Anyway thanks for the comment. See ya on the next one
Great video and install job! Many great tips, thank you for sharing your expertise!
No problem. Thanks for the comment. See ya on the next one
Great video! I use the pull bar that comes in the installation kits to install the last row. Works great!
Right on. I use them to but the prybar is my go to tool to tighten it all up. Thanks for the tip. And the comm6
Really wish I found this before I started my Pergo project. The Home Depot Pergo video is garbage compared to this. So many great tips
Well, thank you, Dominic. I'm glad you found some value in it
I’ve installed many vinyl floors. From cheap internet stores ($2.10 SF) to nice higher end floor (Mohawk $5-$6 SF). By far the most difficult to install was the LifeProof.
Really? I don't really have a problem with the viynl planks. But if you go into the lifeproof bamboo thinking it installs anything like normal lvp you are in for a self taught clinic. I bout lost my mind trying to connect 2 pieces together and under the door jamb too.. and it is so hard to cut both in difficulty and in hardness of the wood. Thanks for the comment. Peace
back with more specific question, hoping for advice
also About to install some pergo outlast+ in a bathroom. I watched numerous vidoes about install around toilet flange. Seems like you only need standard expansion gap around the flange. Do you agree? pergo outlast says to use 100% silicone in the areas of the expansion gaps in rooms with water. Do you have Ideas about if silicon would also should go next to the plank in the gap around the flange?
Absolutely want to seal around the flange. But more importantly is to make sure the flange is sitting above the finished floor. Not level with floor. If you are going around a flange instead of under it. Then you may need to add a short flange extention. I have had toilets leak into the subfloor when the flange is too low. If there is any play in the flange and you can slide the flooring under it,I would suggest that. Your probably worried about expansion. Believe me I have been doing it this way for years and have never had any issues. Hope that helps. Feel free to ask any other questions. Have a great day
Awesome demo technique!
Thanks Perry. Appreciate the comment
@YOUFLOOR How often do you need to change the blades on the cutter? Will i need more than one blade for a 10'x20' room?
No sir. I have installed at least 50 floors with the same blade. Should come with a honing stone. If not you can order one but I use it to sharpen the blade about every 3 or 4 installs. Hope that helps. Good question
You can measure out the room first thing to make sure the end piece is not tiny and super hard to install. I try to make first row near equal to the end piece by cutting the first board in a certain width.
I am doing my whole 2nd floor starting in my master bedroom. Would you recommend starting in a closet and working my way out or find the middle of the room and start there?
If it were me, I would find the straightest wall to start on. If you are installing Pergo Outlast, it is quite easy to install backwards. Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work through your project. Tks for the question.
Great vid! What did you use to cut the flooring to fit up against the wall and around the corner? The skinny piece… Thanks!
I mostly use my table saw or a jig saw. Thanks for the question
do you have any videos of how to do this when you remove the floor molding? Also, transitions?
Do you mean the base board?
@@YOUFLOOR yes... thanks.
I’m not sure but it’s not that hard. Just make sure to cut the caulk line so you don’t mess up your paint on the wall. And use your prybar to pry forward. Not backwards. Go to 8 minutes in this video and I explain as I tear off base tile. Also I put regular baseboard on if you wanna skip to the end to check it out. Thanks for the question th-cam.com/video/71KkJWeovQI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cKcst6W5BTQuo9ic
Great video no one ever mention the sealing and foam. My baseboards or what ever the quarter round nails too go all the way to the subfloor. Should I remove the baseboards and put them on top the laminate or does it matter really?
@Matt Haze If you are going to have quarter round you can leave them!Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
Im curious about the need for an underlayment (floormate) as well.
Look at the specifications (specs) on your flooring. It should tell you if you need it or not
Very good video details for laminate installation. How much labor you do for one room 200 square foot?
The price a depends on the factors of the job. Such as am I pulling and hauling off the old flooring( different floors have different prices. Cost more to tear out tile as opposed to carpet or laminate. Then are we removing base boards and reinstalling or just running 1/4 round. Generally if all those are part of the job we offer an all inclusive price of 3.00 a sq ft up to 3.75 for tile tear out and maybe more if subfloor repair is required. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Normajean
Maybe I missed it but what are the spacers for????
The spacers are for keeping the flooring a quarter of an inch off the wall for expansion. Thanks for the question
Hey man how would you connect a room that was carpeted with an existing laminate floor with matching laminate, without a transition? The connection point is at an angle as well.
The only way to really doe it right is to put the flooring back until you can stair step It back where it start going g through the door. I have a video on matching up flooring going into another room but it involves a transition. So pulling back is the only way. If you have laminate like pergo , sometimes you can weeve the new boards in. But if it's a drop and lock , that's almost impossible. It really doesn't take long to pull the 1/4 round and a few rows to get the new stuff in. Hope that helps
Cool vid man do you guys caulk the quarter rd on top and bottom or just top
If it's white 1/4 round on white baseboard we will caulk only the top. Thanks for the question
I am trying to figure out what tool to use to cut the tiles. I have a Pergo 10mm waterproof laminate. The material is almost like a hard clay, I can't figure it out. I see in this video you used, at least partially, a cutter and not a saw. What saw should I use?
Well if you don't have a cutter I would just use a miter saw or a speed square and a circular saw. You can also use a jig saw. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Hi. Thank you for all the videos. They are super helpful! I do have two questions. Is there a difference between GE white and clear 100% silicone? Also, leaving the expansion gap along a shower or tub, is there away to attach a quarter round without nailing it? Obviously, I cannot nail it to the tub or laminate. Do you think using the same silicone would hold it in place? Thanks
The silicone will hold it, ⁸but you will need something to hold it while it dries. I usually squirt I all the way across with small little gaps I use hot glue on the gaps. This will hold the 1/4 round while the silicone dries. I also use white silicone on top crack. This will add more holding power and make it Waterproof. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR thank you!
Thanks for this helpful video! My question is about switching plank direction in a doorway. We’ll be installing Pergo Elements Preferred in a long dining room, through a regular width doorway and then on into a long kitchen that sits perpendicular to the dining room. We want to run the planks parallel to the length of the rooms. What would you advise as the best way to transition the planks at that one doorway?
Well if the subfloor is same height and you're using same flooring in both rooms, then you should be able to use a t mold to join the rooms together. Even if you tried to turn the laminate and lock an end to a long run. The planks would have to be random lengths in order to continue flooring in that room. So yeah I would use a t mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Excellent video. I bought some used Pergo & am going in the morning (15Oct22) to remove it. Praying that it comes up easy. It’s not glued or nailed. Any tips for pulling it up w/o damage? Thanks!!
Well if there is 1/4 round, start by pulling that. Generally there is a 1/4 inch gap under that and that will help with pulling it out on the sides. If there is only baseboard on top of the flooring, you may have to pull the baseboard. If it's in some ones house and they don't want you to remove the baseboard then you can cut down the side with a oscillating tool or a Sawzall. A circular saw set at the depth of the laminate would be faster but really dusty. Once you figure out a what side the floor started go to the finish wall and pull the 1st row. Keep in mind the 1st board or even the last row could be damaged but once it out its easy peasy. Have some one help you pull the whole row out of the locking system by tipping it up and pulling it out. Then do the same end to end tip it up at around a 30° angle and it should slip right out as you pull. This will help you keep the locking system in tack. If you do damage a small piece of the locking system but most of it is there just put a drop of wood glue In. That spot during the new installation. I know that was long but I hope it makes sense. Great question. And an excellent idea for a video.
Wow! Thanks for the help! The oscillating saw will be a great tool to have on standby. I wish I could take my entire tool arsenal w/ me.
I’m driving from Raleigh to (near) Pinehurst.
Thanks again brother
we're replacing carpet with pergo in a closet. the oak trim is low enough the pergo won't slide under the trim, i assume i should pull the trim up and reinstall it about 1/8 or so higher so the pergo can slip / expand under the oak trim?
You have 2 choices. You can either pull the baseboard and install your floor, then put it back. And it doesn't need to have a gap under the trim. It will still expand and contract with the trim straight on the floor. 2nd choice is to leave the baseboard. Then, when you install flooring, you can leave a small gap around the perimeter for expansion. Then you can install 1/4 round like I did in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
When making your scrap piece for marking your cut line on the last piece, do you cut off the groove or the tongue? Or does it make any difference?
Great video! Do you think a plastic vapor barrier would be required for concrete with Pergo Outlast?
I'm pretty positive you will want
to put a vapor barrier if you are installing on concrete. Thanks for the question
I plan to install this in a lake cottage bedroom. The bedroom is on a slab and the house is not heated in the winter nor a/c in the summer. It’s in MI so weather can be both extremes. Any tips for a good install?
Just make sure you leave good expansion gaps. It's pretty standard laminate, but I will say this... This year was a pretty rough winter. Sometimes the extreme temperature change can cause laminate to separate it its not free to expand. We had to go back to two jobs this winter to close up gaps and we actually left expansion gaps. I'm telling you this because both jobs were pergo outlast. We glued them after closing sing them up. But it could happen again if the weather gets extreme change in temperature. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
When starting the job if you measure the total floor you can split the first and last piece so that you don’t have a slender strip to squeeze in at the end.
Thanks for the tip
Omg finally a video that helps.
can i run it under the baseboard and silicone that? I am not a fan of the quarter round
@pondereef you can pull the baseboard and then install your floor. Once floor is installed you can silicone under the baseboard before you reinstall it. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.
What tool do you use to cut the oddball laminate shapes to accommodate the stairs etc?
I usually use my table saw and a jig saw on laminate. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
You dont have to use quarter round do you? I can just put the foam and silicone then put the baseboard on correct?
Yes sir. That is absolutely correct
Whaow what a smart tucked in😎
Thank you😁
@@YOUFLOOR No, pleasure is all mine. I've learnt something wicked 👌♥️ thank you!
Do you ever have issues with chipping edges when cutting with a circular or jig saw using standard wood blades? Looks like Diablo makes a “Pergo blade” but is it really necessary?
Not so much a circular saw as the jig saw. But yeah I know what you're talking about. Usually any end I'm cutting n g gets covered. Now if I have a new blade. My table saw does a lot of work and usually no chipping out as it cut from the bottom. Hope that helps. I'll have to check out that blade. Thanks for the comment
I’ve used and I love it.
That's awesome 👌. Good to hear. Thanks for the comment
Great video - question that I have not seen asked here. How do you choose which direction to put the flooring down? I have read parallel with the longest wall, parallel to the windows with the most light, or running the length from the main entry way?
We usually let the customer pick, but we do give them all of the points you mentioned. Find the biggest light source and run across joist, etc. But I'd I'm choosing, I make it easy on me. If there is a hallway involved, I go the direction of long ways through the hall. Sideways tend to look plankish like a board walk. If no hallway, I usually start against the longest wall to keep down on the getting up and cutting ends so often. Hop that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR great thank you, makes a lot of sense to go with the hallway.
Good luck buddy let me know how it goes
Great tips.
Good vid, you have good skill,....I would like to see you remove base boards , and reinstall, for a nice finish.
@Smiley Camel Maybe next time!
I am thinking of installing Pergo in my future home. Is underlayment not necessary for these? I would be concerned about moisture/mold.
If you buy your pergo at home depot the underlayment is attached to the bottom. It is not at Lowes. Pergo sells an uderlayment called pergo gold if you want extra. But never cover wood subfloor with any kind of plastic. It will trap moisture and create mold and rot over time. Only on concrete should you use a plastic moisture barrier. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
I am wanting to install this in my entire house, to include the kitchen. Should this be installed under the stove and/or dishwasher? If so, anything different that i need to be aware of. Thank you in advance.
you should definitely install under the stove and refrigerator. Normally with the dishwasher we install flooring just under the feet. It all gets installed the same.
When u out the bottom cover back on the dishwasher it should look finished! Let me know if you have any other questions.
If would run a bead of silicone along the floor under the dishwasher to keep any spills from going under the dishwasher and then under the floor. That should all be behind the bottom cover as well.
Thank you
Thanks a lot! We followed this video to install, but we found a problem with the quarter round, after it is installed, when we put back our furnitures, all have a gap to the wall because the quarter round is stopping them to push against the wall. Isn't it a problem? We are wondering for the places we need to put cabinet or bed, shall we remove the quarter round? But thanks a lot for your video!
Typically things like free standing furniture (beds, dressers, end tables, ect. ) it's okay to have them bumped off the wall a little. But tings like cabinets, vanities, built in book shelves (pretty much if it's attached to the wall) Those things need to have the baseboard stop and die into the cabinet and then I would continue the 1/4 around the cabinet. I personally wouldn't remove any 1/4 round behind the bed or end tables. That's pretty standard. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks a lot for your reply! That really helps! So that means those cabinets will need to fix the position and can't move. We are considering to take out the original baseline and the install it back on top of the laminate so that to provide more flexibility. Would you think there's any problem with such approach? Thanks a lot for your instruction! Really appreciate!
That is fine as long as you haven't installed the floor yet. If you install floor against baseboard and then installed 1/4round , then the floor won't reach over to the wall. It's already cut. So there would be no floor against the wall to put your base on top. Hope that makes sense. Good luck with your project
@@YOUFLOOR We have just installed one small room and found this problem so may change our strategy in the remaining rooms. Thanks a lot for your reply! It's extremely helpful!
Yes if you haven't installed any other rooms. I would go ahead and take a razor knife and cut the caulk line on your baseboard. Be careful pulling it off. Break the nails on the back or use some bull nose nippers or plyers to pull the nails through. Clean up caulk and then install your flooring up to the drywall. Leave a small gap. Now you can set your old base right back in it old place on tip off flooring. And there's no cutting 1/4 round. Or baseboard for that matter. You already have all the old pieces. Good luck. Hope it works out.
Could you help clarify whether it's necessary to leave the expansion space between the laminate and the baseboard? In the instruction Pergo mentioned about 3/8" minimum expansion space to the wall..but seems like you didn't measure that space? (Around minute 13) thank you..
@Lynn Tiasa you do need to leave room for expansion. On this particular job it looks like the baseboard is a little high so if I did get close to baseboard, when the floor expands it would go under the baseboard.
Also, when using a piece of flooring to scribe the last row, the tongue of the flooring makes the expansion gap bigger than it should be, sometimes the gap can be too big. Hope that helps!
Thanks for a great tutorial. I’m looking to run the same pergo upstairs in my house. It’s a hallway with 4 bedrooms. Do you recommend breaking it up or doing it all as one big floor? About 800 sqft total.
If it were me , I would do it all as one big floor. Just be sure to leave a sufficient expansion gap around the door jambs and you should be good to go. Also make sure the temperature stays pretty close between rooms. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
No moisture barrier needed? Is it recommended if using this on bare concrete?
Any kind of laminate will require a plastic vapor barrier when installing on concrete. It is not necessary with lvp. And you would not want to use a plastic vapor barrier on wood subfloor as that can trap moisture and cause mold. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
So, if you pull off the baseboards (like I've done before), I'm assuming that you can still used the foam roll and sealant as shown, and the warranty will be preserved the same as using the method shown with quarter-rounds in this video?
That is correct your baseboard acts as the 1/4 round in that situation. Thanks for the question
Do you have the link to the silicone you Like to use for this flooring?
@Joanna Chavez
Silicone
amzn.to/3HURueJ
Thanks for the question!
Great video!
Thank a lot
Is this really waterproof? Looking at a sample, I can’t figure out what makes it waterproof at the seams. Looks just like regular laminate.
It is water resistant….the underneath part of the board will soak up water! Somehow the seams make a water tight lock and water will not seep through like regular laminate! Pergo outlast is a great product…one of my favorite products to install!
GREAT VIDEO! QUESTION: ALthough it would cause more work, couldn't you remove the wooden base trim from the last edge in the room, lay the last piece, and re-install the base trim?
That is definitely another option. But like you said it would cause a little more work. But the end result ight make it worth it.
I'm trying to install Pergo Outlast+ 7.48 in. W Somerton Auburn Hickory Waterproof Laminate Wood Flooring (19.63 sq. ft./case) and it will not snap together like you show it. I've called customer support twice and what they said to do doesn't help. Either something is wrong with the flooring I bought or Pergo has changed the design. A after 6 hours, the only row that goes together is the first. Get 2 or 3 pieces of 2nd row started and they start coming apart along the ling edge. They will not lock together and stay. So frustrating.
Do you have an email. Shoot me an email and I will help talk you through this. ZCONSTRUCTIONLLC@ GMAIL.COM. Pergo can be so stubborn.I know exactly what you mean about coming apart during the second row. On the seconcon row. But once you get the hang of it, you'll love it. It's actually pretty simple. Hang in there. We can do this brother
Best hack i have for you is to remove the base molding [gently] run the edge at 1/4" from the wall, then once its in// rest the base molding on top of the flooring, ease back into the wall and re-nail it. it is a bit more work before and after but the finished product is great and it minimizes the edge game struggle in exchange for the basemolding work// up to you if its worth it or not- have a nice day
A lot of peeps do it that way. Some folk prefer 1/4 round some people absolutely hate it. Thanks for the tip. See ya on the next one
In the instructions that come with this product you’re supposed to cut off the wider tongue and place that side against your wall. It looks like you’re doing the reverse, placing the side with the short tongue against the wall. And it looks like you’re using short, half size, then long one and then a piece that’s 1/4 size. Right?
Sounds like you got it figured out. As far as cutting thrives off. My directions say to cut the tongue, not the groove. And I never have done that, especially if doing a whole house. It really doesn't affect anything. I would only do that if I'm doing one room, and I want the same size starter piece as my finished piece. In other words, the room is split in half equal to both walls. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question
Which pergo outlast floors you have used?
Well we were installers for home depot so we have installed just about all of them. Thanks for the question
Quick question when or when not to put foam underneath the planks?
Only if the foam is not attached to the planks do you have to put rolls of foam down. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
So, you don't have to cut the tongue off on the first boards against the wall? Also, do you have the female or male side against the wall?
The only time I cut the tongee off is if I'm going into a hallway and I want to center the planks. I do check to see if I'm going to end with a small piece on the opposite side by measuring first. Then, I may cut more than just the tongue to make the piece the opposite wall bigger. But in a 200 to 400 sqft room. Nah, I go with a full board. And yes, I put tongue against the wall. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR Thanks. It does help and I shall do the same.
Great video! We just bought pergo outlast and a bunch of our boards have a white paint fingerprint on them and some have bubbles in the flooring. Have you ever seen this? I'm worried that the white paint ones were marked as being imperfect but we're accidentally mixed in with our boxes. We bought a pallet. Thanks so much for any insight!
I have seen bubbles in my floor before. And I may have even seen white stuff. Try some acetone on the white prints and maybe it will come off. But as for the bubbles I usually just cut around them and use the sides that don't have bubbles for starters and finishers. Hope that helps thanks for the question
Pergo should be paying you for this.
Appreciate it! Thanks for the view and the comment.
Fantastic video.
Are you by chance related to Tom Barton of Wall Builders?
Glad you enjoyed it! I am not related to Tom. Thanks for the comment.
What are you using to cut the last row's pieces lengthwise? We don't have a table saw, just a jigsaw, and we're wondering if there's a good way to make a long square cut with those... We tried a utility knife too and got nowhere... Is there a better way to cut them?
Sure. When I first started installing floors I was a Framer with mad circular saw skills. I couldn't afford a table saw. So I got pretty good at cutting the laminate with a circular saw. Even today On small jobs when I pulled the carpet out I take it peace and throw it outside on the ground and then I just throw the laminate on top of that and set the depth on my saw so it doesn't go too deep and then I just cut on the ground. The saw goes through no problem and the carpet underneath get lightly scored. It make trips super fast. Make sure To wear safety glasses cause that laminate can fly in your eyes and it is not a good time. Also you can do cuts around corners that have long rips and angles just use a jigsaw to finish off small parts I hope that helps thanks for the question
Is this normal or is mine defective? I was really hoping to do this on my own. I bought the same manual cutter you linked but what I noticed is I can’t operate it myself. I have to wait for my son to come home and cut it for me. The planks are only 7ml thick.
Make sure the handle is pulled out long
@@YOUFLOOR ok will try that. Btw thank you for your tips on the quarter rounds I tried it and the results were great.
First of all, I'm not a professional carpenter or floor installer. However, I've just finished installing around 800 feet of Pergo (have about 100 more to go plus two closets). For the last row, I've clicked the narrow board in and used a pull bar and tapping block just as I did on the rest of the floor. When you allow for expansion--and on new construction without baseboards---the pull bar worked well. A bought a tapping block. I found that using a piece of flooring, the flooring "tapping block" smashed quickly and left a mess.
I did not see you measure the room and divide the width of the room by the width of the board. I was hoping to see that. I'm starting a new room and wanted to do it correctly, instead the way I did the rest---fitting in a narrow board along the last wall. I'm very poor at math. My plan is to just cut the boards down the center.
Yeah. I tell you what. A guy I watch does great videos and he does a great job of explaining that divided the room thing. He does it on his computer and it comes out perfect. I usually use a calculator when I'm in a square room and in rooms with multiple adjacent walls or multiple rooms I go with it. But his program allows him to move the floor around for perfect trips on every wall. Check him out. His channel is
TH-cam/build this fix that. Thanks again. Hope that helps
Where did you get the edge blocks I have the wedges and like you said they slide under or keep falling ..Great video
You can find them at home depot back in the flooring section. Lowes does not have them. Thanks for the question
What’s that upside down 👌 doing at the 40 second mark?
Wow. Now that's a Keen eye. I didnt even notice that myself. Good eye!
The carpet removal technique was awesome! Thanks for the informative video! Just wondering, what factors helped you decide to not use the Pergo underpayment and/or does this style already come with an attached underlayment? How have the floors held up since install, have you noticed any pieces coming unlocked or “spongy soft” when you walk in certain areas? Sorry for all the questions, we recently had some LVP (with underlayment attached) put down improperly in our home 3 weeks ago, some boards are already starting to unlock in the middle of the room and along some of the edges near the closets. We’re in the process of working to replace them now and my husband is nervous about going with LVP again 😟
Welll I am an installer for Home Depot as well as my own jobs. They provide me a lot of work so I am able to install many brands, styles, Materials, thickness, ect. So I can't tell you about this particular job as it's a customers. But I have been installing pergo outlast for about 5 years and I have NEVER had a call back do to product defects. And I have been back to repeat customers and if taken care of it looked just as good as the day installed, years later. Btw the pad is attache to the bottom on most pergo laminateflooring. You will need to use a moisture barrier if you are going on top of concrete. As far as lvp. If you have the kind that just presses down it may not be locked in all the way. Or there is a considerable dip that is allowing one side to go down when stepped on. Or the tab that locks them in has broke. If it's not locked in. You can try taking a rubber mallet and striking the plank that lays on top about 3 inches from the end at angle coming down to try to move it into the proper locking spot sometimes we think they are tight together and it's that little bump that locks it in. FyI they do make lvp that's waterproof and locks in like laminate so you don't have to worry about it coming loose. Let me know if your ever interested. Sorry for the long answer. Hope that helped
@@YOUFLOOR Thank you for the details and suggestions for the rubber mallet! That was very helpful. I'm glad a lot of customers have loved their Pergo LVP flooring, I've heard good things about it.
I always take the cut ends from one run to use on the other end as long as they are at least 12 inches in length.
Do you recall the color of this flooring? It’s the perfect gray!!! This video helped a lot, I was afraid to buy pergo because the reviews said it was a nightmare to put together. It looks similar to the traffic master I did years back with a couple tweaks. Also, I plan to remove my baseboards for install, are the spacers & foam still needed since it won’t be up against the baseboard?
Okay lots of great questions. 1st I believe the color is called vintage pewter. I've included a link. Also on that page s roll down and take a look at the home decorators collection. Its lighter in color but very diy friendly. Now with the perimeter seal you dont even neccesarily need the foam rope for 1/4 installation if you are meticulous about your cuts. See typically floating floors will need a quarter of an inch for expansion all the way around. You're goal is to seal off any chance of liquid getting to the underside of your flooring. If your cut are all almost perfectto the wall you should be able to silicone the edge of the floor and a small bead behind the base board. And even with the baseboard method only (no 1/4 round) the liquid would have to be 4 inches deep to climb over the baseboard. Some time the end boards can be cut a little shorter that others. This doesn't leave much room for the silicone. So instead of filling the crack up. The foam will take up the space and you will only use what you need. Hope I answered your question. In summary, no you dont NEED the rope foam but I would grab a package just for those bigger gaps. Place silicone on edge creating a barrier. Set your baseboard in. And clean up with 100% acetone or denatured alcohol. Good luck. Thanks for the questionwww.homedepot.com/p/Pergo-Outlast-7-48-in-W-Vintage-Pewter-Oak-Waterproof-Laminate-Wood-Flooring-19-63-sq-ft-case-LF000848/206860377?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D23-Multi-PERGO-NA-Feed-SMART-2081362-WF-MK461823323_9016229526_FY21_2328_PERGO_OUTLAST&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_DYNM-G-D23-Multi-PERGO-NA-Feed-SMART-2081362-WF-MK461823323_9016229526_FY21_2328_PERGO_OUTLAST-71700000085764827-58700007295799681-92700065505447088&gclid=Cj0KCQiAweaNBhDEARIsAJ5hwbeDHeqoi8MqOzcVRgicvCOPPcl4tvHCkIHONkc_qA5ALXG33aS9HvEaAtL8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
This video has helped me so much. My back is in agony but turned out well 😅 Did to remove the tongue on the edge pieces like it says in the pergo instructions? Or doesn't that matter?
If I am starting with a full plank I do not cut the tongue off. If anyone could tell me the point in doing this, maybe I would consider it but in my opinion it’s just a time waister. If I need to center the planks to the room I may have to cut some of the plank so it will be the correct size, but that has nothing to do with the tongue. Thanks for the question!
@@YOUFLOOR Yeah I found it weird too like even with expansion it's not gonna effect it. I did it anyway so nice to know was a waste of time for when I do the bigger room. Your videos are amazing mate.
Glad I could help! Let me know if you have any other questions!
At 11:42 in the video I see the 3rd(?) row has about a 3" piece needed to finish it. Is it wise to have such a small piece?
Busted! Yeah not my favorite situation. It doesn't affect it structurally, but it is not exactly Esthetically pleasing to the eye. We never start with a plank smaller than 6 inches. And when we get to the end and have a small piece. It's then that we create a dead zone. I made a video about it, but it didn't get a lot of love. So if you want to avoid this issue altogether, You must create the dead zone 1st. There's a faster way to get there, but I wanted to simplify the explanation with a visual. If interested I left a link for that video. Great question. Thanks for the veiw.th-cam.com/video/rkjpa7In4nc/w-d-xo.html
How did you cut that last piece?
With a table saw but you can use a jigsaw too!
Good job
Thank you
I noticed you didn’t use an underlayment. The pre installed backing pad is good enough for sound dampening? Would you recommend a moisture barrier if installing on a concrete slab or does the backing act as one as well?
Oh . For sure you need a moisure barrier if installing on concrete. On wood, it is not needed and also can possibly trap moisturez between the subfloor and plastic, which can cause mold. But that is not the case on concrete. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR that helps a lot. Thank you. Great video. I liked and subscribed!!
Awesome thanks!
Can you lay Pergo Outlast parallel to joint with a 3/4 plywood subfloor? Great video BTW!
All floating floors can be lay parallel or perpendicular . When you nailing or attaching a floor to the subfloor it it better to go perpendicular so that any dips can be slightly hidden from spanning joist to joist. Going parallel will make the wood follow the curves and be real noticable on humps and dips. Because the floor is floating it basically become one big sheet to cover the floor so it wont show dips. However if they are to bad will will have a lot of bounce. Best to level it out first. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
What color of Pergo Outlast is this?