Canon T3i Disassembly, Full Spectrum Modification for Astrophotography, UV and IR Photography.

This video showcases the process of disassembling a Canon T3i camera
to enable a full spectrum modification. This modification enhances the
camera's capabilities for astrophotography, infrared photography,
and ultraviolet photography. The video serves as a comprehensive tutorial,
demonstrating the step-by-step removal of the camera's components
and filters. By undergoing this modification, the camera gains the ability
to capture a broader range of light, including wavelengths that are normally
invisible to the human eye. This particular modification is commonly known
as the 'naked sensor' conversion, leaving the sensor with no filters and only
protected by the factory clear glass. Please be aware that it is necessary to
calibrate the sensor position after the modification has been completed.
If you enjoy my channel's content and want to support my mission of creating new and exciting videos, consider becoming my patron on Patreon or supporting me through PayPal. Whether it's a one-time donation or ongoing support, every bit helps me continue to produce quality content and grow the channel. Thank you for your support!

[@herbertnatanael]

thanks for the video, the pictures were amazing.

[@my-pixels]

Thank you! A full spectrum camera is a mighty tool.

[@adrianortiz3281]

Thank you for the video. It was great to see the process. Question: What was the red thing you used to pry the ribbons with? Again, thanks for the great video.

[@my-pixels]

You are welcome, I'm glad you find the video helpful! The red thing I used is just a plastic pry tool. You can find lots of varieties on amazon.

[@kristoferssmits4618]

👍👍👍👍

[@FooLProoFMPLS]

Great video. I'm looking at doing this to my T3i and so far your video looks like it will be the one I follow along with! I have a question if you happen to see this. What has your focusing been like after the mod not adding some sort of glass in place of the filters? I heard this can be a problem, but I would rather not have to add additional glass back or make a permanent choice on my nm...

[@my-pixels]

Thanks for you comment!
I do camera modifications professionally and I use proprietary equipment to measure and calibrate the sensor position after the mod. No issues with the autofocus system at all. In the naked sensor mod, the sensor should be pushed forward 0.41mm. If the sensor is not calibrated, some lenses may not reach infinity focus, especially those manual focus lenses. Sometimes there is not enough room to push the sensor forward. That's when a piece of clear glass come into play to compensate for the missing stock filters.

[@yuradodel]

Nice video. I bought a cheap T3i with a broken autofocus. I'll use it exclusively with telescopes, so autofocus is irrelevant. I understand that the sensor must be parallel to the lens plane. However, would attention to the sensor's distance still be relevant, since it will no longer be used with "normal" lenses? Or could I move the sensor as much as I wanted?

[@my-pixels]

The position of the sensor still kind of matters because most telescope flatteners/reducers have back focus at 55mm. But it's not always the case. I had a flattener that worked best at 67mm instead of the factory recommended 55mm. So even if your sensor is 0.5mm off, it will likely have no effect on the image quality in the corners of the frame. Just make sure the sensor is parallel to the lens mount flange.

[@Triflingtroglodyte]

Thank you, the exact video i need!
I have been wanting to do this myself for a while now.
Is it easier to replace the filters with a piece of glass instead of doing the recalibration of the naked sensor?
Thanks🙏🏻

[@my-pixels]

Thanks for your comment and question. First thing you need to do anyway is to measure the sensor position before even touching the sensor screws. If you use a replacement glass and don't want to calibrate the sensor position, the glass should be the same thickness as both stock filters combined. Please do not attempt to modify your camera yourself if you think you cannot put the sensor back properly, meaning absolutely parallel to the lens mounting flange. Titled sensor is a big problem in the DIY modifications world.

[@saulontheroad9605]

I'm considering this mod for astrophotography. I saw you remove two filters and I wonder if if the firts one is the IR-cut ? . For me it would probably be enought just removing this one and not going full spectrum. Thanks in advance

[@my-pixels]

Yes, for astrophotography you can simply remove the LPF2 filter which is the blue filter closer to the sensor. Please be aware that the sensor needs calibration after the mod to avoid the sensor tilt issues and autofocus problems.

[@GrumpiGrandad]

Love the video, takes me longer just to do a mainboard swap!. Question: I've seen on other videos people measuring the pegs on the filter housing but I didn't see you do this. Does it have to be done or does it not matter when doing an astro conversion?

[@my-pixels]

Thank you for your comment! I do measure the sensor position in every camera I modify. And the sensor gets calibrated after replacing or removing the filters. However, I skipped that part in the video because some proprietary equipment was used for the measuring and calibration procedure. This operation is very critical to avoid the sensor tilt issues which are very common in DIY mods.

[@GrumpiGrandad]

Thanks for the answer, greatly appreciated.@@my-pixels

[@RaisinEnjoyer]

Says to “calibrate sensor” how ? I replaced the glass and it works fine. And manages to reach focus fine but is there a way to calibrate sensor ?

[@my-pixels]

Yes, the sensor position is measured before the modification. Then, after the modification, the sensor is precisely calibrated depending on the change in glass thickness. Usually by using an electronic micrometer but every vendor has their own proprietary techniques.

[@CountDorkula]

question @ 4:29 you only removed one glass and not both why? I ask as other videos I've watched this week all the lenses were removed.

[@my-pixels]

This camera was modified by removing both the LPF1 and the LPF2 filters. This type of modification is called the naked sensor mod which makes the sensor sensitive to the entire light spectrum including UV and IR light. This is essentially the full spectrum modification.

[@CountDorkula]

@@my-pixels the video through me off when you removed the green glass you pushed it out from the bottom side and it looked like your finger went through that black frame, then you used an air blaster / puffer to clean the black frame, at that point in the video there is a reflection as if there is still a peace of glass left in the black frame is that true? is there 3 lens / pieces of glass in the black frame covering the cmos sensor? as I did see you remove 2, one went in the baggie and the other was the green glass. hence why I asked the first question. one last thing what screw drivers are needed besides the spudger.

[@my-pixels]

@@CountDorkula There are only two filters in the T3i sensor. Both filters were removed in this video. You will need a phillips #00 and a torx T6 screwdrivers. Please don't use cheap screwdrivers, you may end up stripping the screws. Here is a picture of the sensor filter layout nightskycamera.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Sensor-schematic.jpg

[@CountDorkula]

@@my-pixels tks for the help

[@my-pixels]

@@CountDorkula You are welcome!

[@astronola]

How much do u charge for this ?

[@my-pixels]

Please send me an email for more info.