Yeah. I didn't use it this time, but I remember it working more or less interchangeably with the Alum. Oxide. I have another Kato engine project for probably sometime in 2024 that I might try it with.
I would like to see a video on how you dealt with the pickup issue. I have a KATO SD40-2 that I am trying to work through the same. Great videos, lots of great info.
Thanks for watching, Kris! I have done this modification to nearly my entire Kato SD40-2 fleet. Basically involves disassembling the trucks and soldering a wire from that contract strip. I've been thinking about doing a video on this in conjunction with the decoder install. Have a different engine that I can show you this on. How about later this week or sometime next?
@blackhillsandeasternrailroad that would be greatly appreciated. My schedule opens up Thursday and Friday evenings. What best fits you schedule those two evenings, I will make myself available. That will also give me time to get my SD40-2 out and ready. Thank you.
@krisnelson1807 I was thinking of just making and uploading a video in that timeframe. But a livestream could be fun and useful too. What timezone are you in? SE South Dakota is in Central time zone. Need some tools for this job.... soldering iron, a couple hobby knives or something similarly flat and sturdy, a toothpick or small flat screwdriver, phillips screwdriver to remove the shell, and optionally an NMRA standards gauge because Kato wheels are almost always too narrow. Finally paint and brushes to weather the wheel dishes while we have everything apart.
@blackhillsandeasternrailroad I am I south central Montana, so only one hour behind you in South Dakota. Have the tools and the extras. What guage wire do you use for truck to board connection? I used some wire that I harvested out of some other locomotive decoder installations, but am a little leary of it possibly being to light.
@krisnelson1807 How about we do Thursday night at 9:30CT / 8:30MT? Kids will be in bed by then and I can get organized too. Decoder wire works great for this type of application. I hoard it too. So long as it is stranded wire, and fairly fine so it doesn't interfere with the mechanism, I think you'll be fine.
@Devilninja333 Mine too. Both IRL and HO scale model. Looks good, easy to work on, runs smooth and pulls hard. Speaking of the 1:1 and Kato's HO model of course.
Almost shockingly so after other methods failure. Only reason I know about it is because many years ago I was able to buy an 'undecorated' Kato engine from ebay that had this treatment done to it. I didn't try any more liquid chemicals after that!
@dariusjasaitis6475 I know that little bit seems unnerving, but there really isn't that much tension holding those in place. I've never broken or scratched one and I've handled many Kato SD40, SD45 and SD40-2 types. A handful of GP35s too. You kind of get used to them after a while. Any other manufacturer might use some sort of adhesive, it can get dicey.
@richardfoglia7636 Ordinarily, yes. But part of this shell was going to be scrapped anyway! If you haven't already seen it, take a look at this... more rough treatment! th-cam.com/video/LuluQJSNwd0/w-d-xo.html
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroadYikes, won't catch me doing that. Kato no longer provides support to replace parts. Ordering aftermarket parts get pricey when the shipping is more than the part. Happy modeling.
@richardfoglia7636 Does it help to see the end result of what I was doing? th-cam.com/video/Nf8QeOMaCos/w-d-xo.html I also lament Kato's retreat from the HO Scale North American locomotive market. Back in the day, bought many fully complete undec HO Kato SD40-2 shells at $10 each directly from Kato.
But not everyone has a high pressure air gun and media blasting can easily damage surfaces. Everything is a "chemical;" brake fluid works great and doesn't stink like IPA does.
Thanks for watching. Just sharing my experience. The tools I'm using aren't expensive. A small homeowner compressor would work, perhaps more slowly than mine did. Before I learned about using 91% isopropyl alcohol on Athearn shells, I was using break fluid. I didn't enjoy it. Cannot remember whether I tried break fluid on a Kato shell back then or not. I was desperate. Did you get it to work on a Kato?
Thank you for sharing this. I wouldn't have thought about using baking soda as a blast medium.
Yeah. I didn't use it this time, but I remember it working more or less interchangeably with the Alum. Oxide. I have another Kato engine project for probably sometime in 2024 that I might try it with.
Thank you for sharing.👍
You are welcome!
I would like to see a video on how you dealt with the pickup issue. I have a KATO SD40-2 that I am trying to work through the same. Great videos, lots of great info.
Thanks for watching, Kris! I have done this modification to nearly my entire Kato SD40-2 fleet. Basically involves disassembling the trucks and soldering a wire from that contract strip. I've been thinking about doing a video on this in conjunction with the decoder install. Have a different engine that I can show you this on. How about later this week or sometime next?
@blackhillsandeasternrailroad that would be greatly appreciated. My schedule opens up Thursday and Friday evenings. What best fits you schedule those two evenings, I will make myself available. That will also give me time to get my SD40-2 out and ready. Thank you.
@krisnelson1807 I was thinking of just making and uploading a video in that timeframe. But a livestream could be fun and useful too. What timezone are you in? SE South Dakota is in Central time zone.
Need some tools for this job.... soldering iron, a couple hobby knives or something similarly flat and sturdy, a toothpick or small flat screwdriver, phillips screwdriver to remove the shell, and optionally an NMRA standards gauge because Kato wheels are almost always too narrow. Finally paint and brushes to weather the wheel dishes while we have everything apart.
@blackhillsandeasternrailroad I am I south central Montana, so only one hour behind you in South Dakota. Have the tools and the extras. What guage wire do you use for truck to board connection? I used some wire that I harvested out of some other locomotive decoder installations, but am a little leary of it possibly being to light.
@krisnelson1807 How about we do Thursday night at 9:30CT / 8:30MT? Kids will be in bed by then and I can get organized too. Decoder wire works great for this type of application. I hoard it too. So long as it is stranded wire, and fairly fine so it doesn't interfere with the mechanism, I think you'll be fine.
My favorite locomotive
@Devilninja333 Mine too. Both IRL and HO scale model. Looks good, easy to work on, runs smooth and pulls hard. Speaking of the 1:1 and Kato's HO model of course.
I never thought about bead blasting, it works pretty good.
Almost shockingly so after other methods failure. Only reason I know about it is because many years ago I was able to buy an 'undecorated' Kato engine from ebay that had this treatment done to it. I didn't try any more liquid chemicals after that!
WARNING!!!
Headphone users turn your volume DOWN at before 6:15 if you value your hearing!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroad You're very welcome! Your video was very informative and helpful, even if a bit startling to my ears, lol 🙂
@@fredashay Glad I could help. Sorry about the sound level change offending your ears!
It's scary to watch how the glasses are pushed out with a screwdriver
@dariusjasaitis6475 I know that little bit seems unnerving, but there really isn't that much tension holding those in place. I've never broken or scratched one and I've handled many Kato SD40, SD45 and SD40-2 types. A handful of GP35s too. You kind of get used to them after a while. Any other manufacturer might use some sort of adhesive, it can get dicey.
Great vid but wow the way he rips it apart. I am much more gentle and take my time to not break anything like the grabs.
@richardfoglia7636 Ordinarily, yes. But part of this shell was going to be scrapped anyway! If you haven't already seen it, take a look at this... more rough treatment! th-cam.com/video/LuluQJSNwd0/w-d-xo.html
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroadYikes, won't catch me doing that. Kato no longer provides support to replace parts. Ordering aftermarket parts get pricey when the shipping is more than the part. Happy modeling.
@richardfoglia7636 Does it help to see the end result of what I was doing? th-cam.com/video/Nf8QeOMaCos/w-d-xo.html
I also lament Kato's retreat from the HO Scale North American locomotive market. Back in the day, bought many fully complete undec HO Kato SD40-2 shells at $10 each directly from Kato.
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroadYou sure put much work into it a nice result.
@@richardfoglia7636 Thank you sir!
But not everyone has a high pressure air gun and media blasting can easily damage surfaces. Everything is a "chemical;" brake fluid works great and doesn't stink like IPA does.
Thanks for watching. Just sharing my experience. The tools I'm using aren't expensive. A small homeowner compressor would work, perhaps more slowly than mine did. Before I learned about using 91% isopropyl alcohol on Athearn shells, I was using break fluid. I didn't enjoy it. Cannot remember whether I tried break fluid on a Kato shell back then or not. I was desperate. Did you get it to work on a Kato?